Bourgogne Holiday Traditions, Memories, and Menus

by Elizabeth Smith

During my 2021 trip to Bourgogne, I met two inspirational women in wine, Anne-Laure Chartron of Domaine Jean Chartron and Estelle Prunier of Domaine Michel Prunier and Fille. In an interview, they shared their family holiday traditions, memories, and menus.

Anne-Laure Chartron

“Before Le Père Noël (who arrived in the 1960s), we had Père Janvier in Bourgogne. He would bring presents New Year’s Eve instead of Christmas Eve. This was tradition when I was a child,” recalled Chartron.

When the celebration moved to Christmas Eve, Chartron’s mother served homemade escargots in parsley and garlic butter, wild goose and duck fois gras, boudin blanc, Bourgogne cheeses, and Bûche de Noël. On Christmas Day, her family enjoyed fois gras and turkey with chestnuts, the latter which they paired with their own PulignyMontrachet Premier Cru, Clos du Cailleret, Rouge (Pinot Noir), and concluded with Bûche glacée or vacherin meringué.

Estelle Prunier

The Pruniers celebrate Christmas Day with a blind wine tasting lunch. “We often include a wine to trick the guests like a New World one,” shared Prunier. They serve their holiday meal with their own wines (except dessert): an apéritif of Crémant de Bourgogne, oysters with Aligoté Bourgogne, smoked salmon with Chorey-lesBeaune blanc, foie gras with an older vintage Meursault, chapon (capon) with an older Volnay Premier Cru les Caillerets, cheeses with an older Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru, Clos du Val, and Bûche de Noël with a vin doux naturel like Banyuls.

Bûche de Noël

Chartron reminded me that Bûche de Noël originated in Bourgogne. “During the Middle Ages, the people of Bourgogne used real logs decorated with sweets (dried grapes or blackcurrants). It was a real treat for the children!”

Bûche de Noël ~ Creative Commons Flourless Chocolate Bûche de Noël

by Tyra Rachelle

Courtesy of AllRecipes.com

Total prep time: 90 minutes Serves: 12

2 cups heavy cream ½ cup confectioners' sugar ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 6 egg yolks ½ cup white sugar ⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract ⅛ teaspoon salt 6 egg whites ¼ cup white sugar Confectioners' sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). Line a 10x15 inch jelly roll pan with parchment paper. In a large bowl, whip cream, 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar, 1/2 cup cocoa, and 1 teaspoon vanilla until thick and stif. Refrigerate.

In a large bowl, use an electric mixer to beat egg yolks with 1/2 cup sugar until thick and pale. Blend in 1/3 cup cocoa, 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla, and salt. In large glass bowl, using clean beaters, whip egg whites to soft peaks. Gradually add 1/4 cup sugar and beat until whites form stif peaks. Immediately fold the yolk mixture into the whites. Spread the batter evenly into the prepared pan.

Bake for 12 to 15 minutes in the preheated oven, or until the cake springs back when lightly touched. Dust a clean dish towel with confectioners' sugar. Run a knife around the edge of the pan and turn the warm cake out onto the towel. Remove and discard parchment paper. Starting at the short edge of the cake, roll the cake up with the towel. Cool for 30 minutes.

Unroll the cake and spread the filling to within 1 inch of the edge. Roll the cake up with the filling inside. Place seam side down onto a serving plate and refrigerate until serving. Dust with confectioners' sugar before serving.