Food for Thoughts by Ana María Cuervo Restrepo

FOOD FO THOUGH

Cook_inc

OD FOR OUGHTS

M A N I F E S T O

Food for Thoughts is a collective of relevant themes meant to start a dialogue. It uses food not in just its existence but also in its essence as a medium to talk about and share our perspectives on social

issues that are larger than ourselves. In each volume, readers will find simple recipes connected to the stories or articles. We hope that the recipes and the dishes create a open space for people to discuss their feelings and positions on some of the topics listed in the zine. Take a bite and savor Food for Thoughts.

INDEX 01 Food for Desire The world’s most aphrodisiac food Steak in chocolate and coffee sauce

02 Food for Equality

6 8 16

How Julia Child empowered women

Seed cycling

03 Food for Freedom

Just an Acarajé

The Acarajé

04 Food for Future

Visionaire concepts

Aquafaba Chocolate Mousse

05 Food for Peace

How cooking triumphs over division in Israel and Palestine

Shakshuka

01_Food for Desire

Not only is good nutrition vital to the stamina, mood and wellbeing needed for a healthy libido, but certain foods also contain specific enzymes and vitamins (think zinc and omega-3) that increase circulation, stimulation and the production of hormones to optimise sex drive - making them prime material for some seriously good hanky panky.

a 1998 study by PureWorld Botanicals found maca root to contain two unique compounds, macamides and macaenes, which are directly related to its aphrodisiac effect - including a lift in energy and libido.

The scent of basil has long been associated with arousal, with women rubbing basil powder and oil in their bodies back in the From peanut butter to porridge day to attract the guys. Granted, oats and chocolate to chilli, these we’re more likely to spice up a natural aphrodisiacs could work linguine with it these days, but the wonders in bringing an added dose fact remains that basil is great in boosting circulation for a superof va va voom to the bedroom… revved libido and its uplifting Known as the “Peruvian Viagra”, fragrance is a natural aphrodisiac. the sex-enhancing power of this radish-like root is legendary in Porridge is the master of wake-up its native country and beyond. foods, not least because of its turnCherished by the Incas back in on potential. Research has found the day and now used as dietary oats help to unlock testosterone supplement around the world, production in the body, kick-

starting the libido. Porridge marketing gurus have been quick to cash in on the connection: one brand is titled Morning Glory while Rory McCann, the former lumberjack seen on boxes of Scott’s Porage Oats famously proclaimed: “Porridge keeps me frisky.” When Baby talked about carrying a watermelon in Dirty Dancing, she perhaps wasn’t aware of its sexual potency. Both the rind and flesh of this glorious fruit are packed with amino acid citrulline, which relaxes the blood vessels and increases blood flow to the genitals, in an effect similar to Viagra.

APH DISIA “testicle tree”. These tasty starters are high in vitamin b6, which helps boost male libido, and also potassium, which regulates the female thyroid gland. They’re also rich in folic acids, which is good for the heart and energy levels.

including phenylethylamine, the “love chemical” which triggers the release of dopamine in the brain and anandamide, which is linked to motivation and pleasure. Need more proof? A study by the Journal of Sexual Medicine found women who ate a single piece of It’s not a great aid for getting chocolate every day enjoyed a you to bed but once you’re there, more active sex life than those garlic is a bit of a hero. It’s packed who didn’t. full with allicin, a compound that increases blood flow to the Ancient Romans used beetroot to sexual organs. Make sure you improve their sex drive and the have chopped garlic rather than vegetable’s libido-lifting qualities chewing it raw (allicin is only remain true to this day. As well as produced via an enzyme reaction containing trytophan, a chemical when garlic is cut up), but all in that contributes to wellbeing, all it’s a nice little antidote to bad beets also have high levels of the breath. trace mineral boron, which is directly related to the production The king of aphrodisiacs, dark of sex hormones. chocolate with high levels of cacao contains a host of sex Good news for fans of the gooey drive-inducing compounds, paste: peanut butter is high in

The avocado’s phallic outline has not gone unnoticed over the centuries with the Aztecs dubbing the fruit tree “ahuacatl” or

monounsaturated fats, which increase dopamine - and this, in turn, can heighten female sexual arousal. So treat yourself to an extra serving next time you have it on toast.

Research suggests liquorice is actually a bit of a mixed blessing when it comes to libido. A study by the Smell and Taste Treatment and Research Foundation in Chicago found women who were exposed to the scent of liquorice reported a 13% increase in blood flow to their genitals (compared to a 1% reduction from the scent of men’s cologne). However researchers from Iran found men who ate too much liquorice could risk lowering their testosterone levels. So good news for girls, not so much for guys. Nuts in general contain high

Next time your reach guiltily for the vanilla ice-cream, rest assured that it could do wonders for your sex life. Not only is the scent of vanilla a powerful mood-enchancer (some claim that inhaling it alone can increase libido) but when consumed, it aids the central nervous system leading to heightened stimulation.

Its phallic outline suggests asparagus may be a natural contender for an aphrodisiac - and indeed it is. This sophisticated veg contains high levels of “sex vitamin” E and foliate, which is necessary for histamine production - and histamine is related to easy sexual orgasm, both male and female. The Vegetarian Society recommends “eating asparagus for three days for the most powerful effect.”

The erotic connotations of a banana are fairly blatant, but this fruit is potent on the inside too. Bananas are rich in the enzyme bromelain, which has been linked to increased libido in men, and contain high levels of potassium and Vitamin B. These help in the production of sex hormones in both men and women, as well as optimising energy levels.

production of androsterone, the odourless hormone released via male perspiration. This in turn is thought to act as a pheromone to turn women on. Something to bear in mind the next time you deliberate in the supermarket aisle…

endorphins and increases blood flow and heart rate to stimulate nerve endings.

“A SIMPLE TRIP TO THE SUPERMARKET ALONE COULD DO WONDERS IN SPICING UP YOUR SEX LIFE.”

levels of fatty acids which are key to the production of hormones needed to maintain a healthy sex drive. Almonds are especially good; studies indicate their scent arouses women and they contain an amino acid called arginine, which helps to relax blood vessels and circulation to increase sexual potency in men.

HRO AC Granted it’s not the sexiest of vegetables, but raw celery boosts

Goji berries grow abundantly in the tropical environment of Asian countries and are traditionally used there as a sexual tonic. The “super food” red berries increase Eggs Florentine makes a great testosterone production, which breakfast in bed treat, and one stimulates sex drive in both men with sexual benefits. Eggs contain and women. And they’re great for high levels of vitamins B6 and B5, overall mood and wellbeing, too. which help to balance hormone It’s an oldie but a goldie and levels, and also vitamin B12, which there’s a good reason why we is key to healthy testosterone associate oysters with romance production. Little wonder they’re and arousal. These slimy molluscs traditional symbols of fertility are packed full of zinc, which and rebirth. is vital to the production of There’s a reason why red hot testosterone and healthy sperm. chilies have long been associated They also contain elevated levels with a spicy sex life. The hot of mood-enhancing and libidoflavour comes from a massive lifting dopamine. dose of capsaicin, a chemical As erotic ingredients go, pumpkin which releases mood-enhancing seeds are hardly top of the list

01_Food for Desire

- but it would be a mistake to underestimate their sexual power. Like almonds, they contain high levels of the essential fatty acid omega-3 and like oysters, they’re packed with zinc - both of which trigger the production of hormones required for a healthy sex drive. Nutmeg can imitate the effects of “happy hormone” serotonin, allowing for greater relaxion and elevated mood. And studies have indicated that extracts of the spice have the same effect on mating behaviour among animals as Viagra. Food for thought for when you next decorate your cappuccino... Like oysters and almonds, salmon is positively oozing with omega-3

essential fatty acids to optimise the production of sex drive hormones and maintain healthy circulation for nerve stimulation. In fact, if you dined out on salmon, oysters and almonds - topped off with vanilla ice-cream - who only knows what might happen... Good old ginger is great for the immune system and even greater for your libido. Ginger root acts as a stimulant to the circulatory system, increasing blood flow to the genitals. A steaming cup of ginger tea will also heat you up and get your heart rate going, which is all good news when it comes to sex. Author Stylist Team Website stylist.co.uk/

FIN 11

01_Food for Desire

IF YO ANYTHIN ME, YOU ABOUT EA MORE OFT YOU T ABOUT

OU’RE NG LIKE U THINK ATING FAR TEN THAN THINK T SEX.

01_Food for Desire

Certain foods can become erotic to you because you ate them on a long-remembered date, or because a lover cooked them for you. I find some edibles so mouth wateringly delicious that they make my entire body seem to melt. I’m spoiled by living with a partner who loves to cook and bake. Personally, I find the preparation process even hotter than the meal, and appreciate it when there’s time to sneak off for sex while something yummy is cooking in the oven. I asked several people to share their favorite sexy foods, and received a range of responses. Susana Mayer, founder of the Erotic Literary Salon at Time restaurant in Center City, says she had “a most wondrous foodgasm” on Valentine’s Day from sharing a Swiss truffle with a lover. For food journalist Tove Danovich, it’s figs that light the flame. “Biting into one almost feels like too intimate an act to do in public,” she said, and she’s not the

only one who feels that way. Chef Amy Reiley writes in her cookbook Fork Me, Spoon Me, that figs resemble a woman’s private parts, and so eating one “while naked in front of a woman is a powerfully erotic act.” Another respondee said even though it’s a cliché, bananas are her favorite sexy food. “It reminds me of giving head, which is one of my favorite things to do. When I focus my attention on the banana and slowly eat it, I can become very aroused.” It’s not just the traditional aphrodisiacs that make people’s mouths water. Kink educator Eve Minax says the taste and slippery texture of avocados makes them great for food play. “Take one and roll it around in your hands as it gets softer and warmer. Bite a little hole in it and squeeze some goodness out,” suggests Minax.

n I k t a a e l t S oco fe f h o C dC n A uce a S INGREDIENTS 800g of steak

150g of streaky bacon

2 single espresso shots

50g of dark chocolate, Belgian, good-quality 1 tbsp of olive oil

4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 2 knobs of butter

half a glass of white wine 1 large onion, diced 150ml of double cream 3 bay leaves 1 tsp thyme leaves 1 tbsp of peppercorns salt black pepper

pink

e t e e 1

Rub the steak with the oil, garlic and bay leaves and set aside for 1 hour at room temperature. In the meantime, dice the onion and fry in a knob of butter until caramelised

2 Blitz the onion mixture in a food processor with the white wine to create a purée and reserve. In a frying pan, melt the remaining knob of butter and fry the steaks over high heat for 2 minutes each side 3 Remove the steaks from the heat, season with salt and pepper and set aside to rest 4 Add the bacon to the pan and fry until golden. Add the onion purée and fry for a little longer 5 Return the beef to the pan and add the cream and pink peppercorns, stirring until the sauce begins to bubble 6 Mix in the coffee, chocolate and thyme, stirring until it reaches a simmering point. Serve immediately

This recipe combines two aphrodisiac ingredients: chocolate and coffee. Chocolate contains phenylethylamine, which can spark excitement and a general sense of well-being. Coffee also elevates mood by causing a rush of dopamine to the brain. Plus, if date night happens to fall on a night when you’re tired after a long day of work, the caffeine will help the both of you stay up late.

02_Food for Equality

FOOD FOR EQUALITY.

HOUSEWIVES ACTIVISTS AND

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empowered women in the kitchen and beyond

JULIA CHILD

How

02_Food for Equality

For a woman born in 1912, when words like “feminist” and “disruptor” were not a part of the American lexicon, Julia Child was a woman ahead of her time. After all, how many women in the early part of the 20th century volunteered during World War II, wanting to be a spy? Julia was the first woman to have a television show and the first woman to be inducted into the Culinary Institute of America’s Hall of Fame. Certainly Julie & Julia, the 2009 box-office hit starring Meryl Streep as Julia Child, helped bring attention to America’s first female culinary icon. The film was written and directed by Nora Ephron, whose success ranged across cinema, journalism, theater, and beyond. Nora undoubtedly saw a bit of herself in Julia Child, having succeeded in several fields dominated by men, and she’s not alone. Before Julia Child, there were many cookbooks authored by women – even the very successful Joy of Cooking – but none of those women created a media sensation like Julia. She also pushed women to be more adventurous with her cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Remember that in the early 1960’s, women were preparing simple dinners using processed food to make casseroles or even frozen TV dinners. With the publishing of her iconic cookbook and her television show, The French Chef, Julia took the mystery out of French cuisine and gave everyone the confidence to experiment with good food at home. Julia was the first woman to have her own cooking show. She thought everyone should be able to cut up their own chicken, getting their fingers “dirty” to really touch and enjoy the ingredients they were using. At the time, female home cooks only worked with meat after it had been

cleaned, cut, and packaged for sale in the supermarket, using canned fruits and vegetables as well. She also made cooking fun – a new concept! After all, holding up an entire raw goose by its wings and waving definitely disrupted the usual cooking demonstrations on television. Julia was a popular and fearless force in the kitchen all her life. She paved the way for other strong female cooks and chefs to create their own culinary and entertainment empires. She attended Le Cordon Bleu, a famous cooking school, and later studied privately with Max Bugnard and other master chefs. Many times she was the only woman in the kitchen. The Julia Child Foundation is a shining example of the impact she’s had on American food. Julia was a powerful mastermind in launching the James Beard Foundation in 1986. At Julia’s suggestion, Peter Kump, a former student of James Beard and founder of the Peter Kump Cooking School (known today as the Institute of Culinary Education), purchased Beard’s New York brownstone in Greenwich Village and preserved it as a gathering place where the general public and press are able to appreciate the talents of established and emerging chefs throughout the year.

”Julia’s admiration for James Beard’s legacy helped launch the James Beard Foundation.” Author Susan Ungaro Website www.pbs.org/

02_Food for Equality

If Julia were around today, I think she’d say that we need to do more to advance diversity and the careers of women. Julia believed that all you needed to succeed in the kitchen was a sharp knife and courage. One’s gender didn’t enter the equation for her. She encouraged her fans to overcome challenges faced in the kitchen. Fortunately, there are plenty of concrete ways to help advance inclusion in the food business. Start by making a commitment to increasing diversity where you work. If you are a writer, write more stories on women and people of color. If you’re a restaurateur, focus on diversity in hiring.

All of us need to become more comfortable with the uncomfortable subject of diversity – it is a cultural imperative. 23

02_Food for Equality

TIP:: SEED CYCL ING

Seed cycling is a method of consuming certain types of seeds during certain times of your menstrual cycle in order to better support hormone health and function. For seed cycling, the menstrual cycle is split into two phases: Phase 1 – Follicular, begins on day 1 of menstruation (generally days 1 to 14 or until ovulation begins) Phase 2 – Luteal, begins right after ovulation (days 14 to 28-35 or until day 1 of mensuration)

How does Seed Cycling Work? During the Follicular Phase: Consuming seeds that contain phytoestrogens can help balance estrogen levels (an important element of overall women’s health). Because phytoestrogens are a plant-based source of estrogen, they may modify the body’s estrogen levels, helping increase and decrease estrogen levels as needed. Also, seeds (and other foods) high in omega-3 fatty acids can help reduce inflammation in the body and regulate follicle stimulating hormone, a.k.a. FSH. Pumpkin seeds and flax seeds are high in zinc and lignans, which naturally support estrogen production, help clear excess estrogen from the body, and prepare the body for progesterone secretion. During the Luteal Phase: Incorporating seeds (and other foods) that contain omega-6 fatty acids, which convert into gamma-linolenic acid, a.k.a. GLA, in the body, supports progesterone levels and reduces inflammation. Sesame seeds and sunflower seeds are high in selenium, lignans, and omega-6, which support liver function and proper hormone excretion, regulate estrogen and progesterone levels, and reduce inflammation. Also, sesame seeds are high in zinc and sunflower seeds are high in vitamin E, which both support progesterone production. (1 & 2)

How do you Seed Cycle? Consume 1 Tbsp each flax seeds and pumpkin seeds daily during the follicular phase (days 1 to 14) Consume 1 Tbsp each sesame and sunflower seeds daily during the luteal phase (days 14 to 28-35)

02_Food for Equality

INGREDIENTS FOLLICULAR MIX (flax + pumpkin)

LUTEAL MIX sunflower)

1/2 cup whole flax seeds (organic when possible)

1/2 cup raw sunflower seeds (organic when possible)

1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds (organic when possible)

1/2 cup hulled sesame seeds (organic when possible)

1/4 cup chia seeds (organic when possible)

1/2 cup coconut

1/2 cup desiccated coconut

desiccated

1/4 cup hemp seeds (organic when possible // we prefer hemp hearts)

(sesame

1/4 cup hemp seeds (organic when possible // we prefer hemp hearts) 2 Tbsp cacao nibs

Follicular Seed Cycling Mix 1

Add whole flax seeds and raw pumpkin seeds to a small blender or food processor and pulse into a fine meal (see photo).

2 Then add to a large mixing bowl with remaining ingredients (chia seeds, desiccated coconut, hemp seeds, and cacao nibs (optional)) and stir to combine. 3 Transfer to a large jar, label, and store in the refrigerator up to 1 month, or in the freezer for 1 month or longer (seeds will stay fresher longer in freezer). Luteal Seed Cycling Mix 1

Add whole sunflower seeds and sesame seeds to a small blender or food processor and pulse into a fine meal.

2 Then add to a large mixing bowl with remaining ingredients (chia seeds, desiccated coconut, hemp seeds, and cacao nibs (optional)), and stir to combine. 3 Transfer to a large jar, label, and store in the refrigerator up to 1 month, or in the freezer for 1 month or longer (seeds will stay fresher longer in freezer).

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FOOD 29

03_Food for Freedom

just an acarajé

The snack is typical of Bahia, a coastal state in northeast Brazil that flourished during colonial times because of the sugarcane plantations. It is not just any deepfried snack, but one with a history and traditions that date from the time of slavery. Aracajé is a mixture of mashed black-eyed beans, onions and shrimp fried in dendê (palm oil). According to local custom,

Baianas de Aracajé pour spicy pastes, vatapá and caruru over the aracajé after they have cut it in half, but in the tourist areas they generally ask foreigners whether they like this or not. The snack is topped off with a salad.

The snack was brought to northeast Brazil by slaves from western Africa. During slavery, aracajé was sold in the streets of Bahia by freed female slaves. Apart from being a daily snack aracajé was, and is, offered to the saints and gods during religious candomblé ceremonies. Aracajé cannot be prepared by just anybody. Since it first appeared on the scene, the snack has been made and sold by women only, a tradition kept until today. With this tradition comes the

“The enslaved women sold acarajé to buy their freedom.” vendor’s fancy dress that also dates from the time of slavery, and which continued to be a common dress in Bahia until into the 20th century. Nowadays the Bahian dress is only worn during festivals, by women in the streets of Salvador da Bahia to lure tourists into their shop, and by Baianas de Aracajé. In the second stage, the Baianas went to the streets to sell acarajé to do their obligations at the terreiros (Candomblé Houses),

usually the Oiá daughters (it couldn’t be any person). Over time, the Baiana realized that, by selling acarajés, she could support the family, it was when the acarajé went to the street and became commercial. It is commercial, but in my head it is still symbolic because it still belongs to the terreiro, it remains sacred. The acarajé is an offering to Iansã and the abará is an offering to Xango. Author Georganne Hassell Website theculturetrip.com/

03_Food for Freedom

just an acarajé INGREDIENTS For the Filling: 1 onion 1 teaspoon chile powder 1 cup small shrimp (fresh or frozen, shelled and deveined) 2 tablespoons palm oil (or olive oil) Salt and pepper to taste For the Fritters: 2 cans black-eyed peas 1 clove of garlic 1 onion 1 small chili pepper 1-2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper to taste 2 inches palm oil and/or vegetable oil for frying

Make filling: Slice the onion very thinly. Place the sliced onions in a skillet with the olive oil or palm oil, sprinkle with salt and chile powder, and cook on low heat until they are soft and golden brown (about 15 minutes).

2 Add the shrimp and sauté until shrimp are pink. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. 3 Make the fritters: Thoroughly drain the black-eyed peas and place them in the food processor. Roughly chop the onion and garlic, and add it to the peas. 4 Remove the seeds and white parts from the inside of the chile pepper and add to the processor. 5 Process mixture just until very wellblended, adding a tablespoon or two of water or broth if needed. 6 Add flour by the tablespoon, until the mixture is stiff enough to hold a shape. Divide into 15 pieces, and shape into balls or ovals with the palms of your hand. 7 Heat 2 inches palm oil and/or vegetable oil in a pot over medium-high heat. Fry several fritters at a time until browned on all sides. Drain fritters on a plate lined with paper towels. Fritters can be kept warm in a 200-degree oven. 8 Split fritters in half and fill with a spoonful of the onion and shrimp mixture. Serve warm.

FOOD F TURE FO FUTURE FOR FU FOOD F TURE FO FUTURE

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04_Food for Future

PROBLEM

VISIONARY I do not have to stress how important a role food and eating play in our lives. Food is at the base in Maslow’s hierarchy of our needs, it is essential for our survival. It shows the creativity of humankind perfectly: food exists in the richest variety of ingredients, forms, shapes, tastes and colours all over the world from the Greenlandic kiviak (dozens of small birds stuffed into a seal fermented under a rock) through the Liquid Pea Sphere of molecular gastronomy to the tagliatelle with hand-cut meat ragout from the world’s best restaurant, Osteria Francescana. The advent of novel digital health tools will radicalise an activity as old as life itself: food consumption. Indeed, innovation and technology will help us be more conscious of our food consumption. The latest technologies can help us better understand what we eat, how we should eat, and even stretch the

boundaries of the food industry. Let’s take a closer look at how technology will shape the future of food.

Food = survival + eating = social event Everyone knows that eating is also a key social event in every society and groups. Providing food and eating has been a common activity for humans since the Stone Age: men hunted mammoths in groups while women collected edible berries, and then they gathered to eat the prey together. This notion has not changed a bit. The stove or the fireplace has been the central part of every household for millennia. Families gather around in the kitchen, share their food and their stories around a meal. Eating brings people together, initiates discussions, bridges or even separates people based on differences in taste.

OLUTION

FIT

Y CONCEPTS The radical technological changes, innovations and societal upheavals of the 20th and 21st centuries have also left their marks on our food and eating habits. Fast-food restaurants vs. healthy lifestyle; conscious cooking vs. random eating patterns; obesity in the developed world vs. hunger/famine in the developing countries; mass food production vs. local farming; are there any clear trends in this cacophony? What does the future of food and eating look like? Can we possibly grasp what we will eat twenty years from now, and how will we eat it? According to my observation concerning food and eating, there are currently at least five pressing issues on the table. I believe that the future of food points into the direction where technology and innovation offer a solution for them. Seriously, we have no idea what

we buy at the supermarket or what is on our plate in the canteen. Where did that eggplant you had for lunch come from? And where was the chicken bred? What about the glass of wine you had for dinner? Although ingredients are listed on most of the products we buy, more often than not, we have absolutely no idea where our food comes from, and what substances it contains. This is more concerning given our increased reliance on prepackaged food over fresh ones. Especially so, given the life-threatening complications of food allergies. The World Allergy Organization estimates that around 220250 million people suffer from allergies. Recent analyses indicate an increased rate in food allergies, although the causes aren’t clear. In Europe, 2% of adults have food allergies, but children as well suffer from these life-threatening reactions. For example, 7% of children in the UK and 9% of

children in Australia are affected by allergies, sometimes with fatal consequences. As such, a method to know the constituents of our food becomes increasingly important. One remedy to our ignorance would be having a list of exactly what ingredients and how many calories a meal contains, and what allergens and toxins might be in it. I mean not just the kind of meal we eat but the actual food on our plate and its specific amount. Several companies have already tried to address this with food scanners. Nima, a Silicon Valley-based company, developed two such portable scanners. Its gluten sensor enables users to scan samples of their food for gluten content on the spot, a game changer for those suffering from celiac disease. The company’s second device, the peanut sensor, helps in determining the presence of peanut content in one’s food.

04_Food for Future

Other companies have also entered the consumer market with food scanners of their own. SCio scans food and analyses their chemical constituents thanks to its microspectrometer. However, lately the company seems to have shifted its focus towards the farming industry rather than improving on its consumer product. The Foodini project from Natural Machines received great attention when the first articles were published about printing out food at home. CMO & Co–founder of Natural Machines, Lynette Kucsma told me the plan is to print food using fresh ingredients instead of creating artificial food. The company has expanded its activities by partnering with healthcare institutions and authorities to print appealing foods for cancer patients or

those on restricted diets. Other examples include that of Biozoon, which prints out gourmet-looking food for seniors who need to eat purified meals. For those with a sweet tooth, FoodJet’s 3D food printer 3D prints industrial scale chocolate.

Half of the world is obese, the other half is fighting hunger It is one of the most absurd phenomena, but it characterises well the schizophrenic eating habits of our world. Globally, about 39 % of adults are overweight and worldwide obesity has nearly

tripled since 1975. On the other hand, the WHO provided some disheartening statistics about famine worldwide. About 820 million people don’t have adequate nutrition. That’s around one in nine people globally. In Eastern Africa, nearly a third of the population is undernourished. Poor nutrition causes nearly half the deaths in children under five years old. The list goes on and will aggravate with the COVID-19 pandemic. Ensuring food security and receiving relief from other countries could drive these numbers lower than they were in the 1990s when over a billion people were undernourished. But there are still ways to go. Given that traditional approaches haven’t mitigated the problem satisfactorily, we might ask what technology can offer.

Yes, the family is toge preparing a meal toge of new technologies. enjoy a meal while be about its contents an their individual needs stomach aches or oth gastrointestinal side e 38

The future is cultured, not slaughtered With the global meat consumption having nearly doubled in the past 50 years and showing no signs of slowing down, alternatives must be found. Luckily, demand for meatless alternatives are also on the rise and development in this field can help address the issue of food shortages. Companies like Impossible Foods and Beyond Meat produce plantbased burgers which imitate meat texture. These have even been adopted and popularised by fast food companies such as Burger King. Others aren’t foregoing of meat altogether but are taking a different approach regarding how it is procured with lab-

grown meat. It refers to meat that is cultured in a lab from only a small sample of animal tissue. From a few starter cells one can derive tens of tons of meat. The Cultured Meat project from Maastricht University and the company Modern Meadow are working on making this a reality for the masses. For a more radical option, all-in-one powders and shakes aim to replace traditional food. These meal replacement powders contain all the nutrition necessary for an average adult and must be mixed with water and then consumed. Two popular companies providing these replacement meals are Soylent and Huel. While being controversial options, nutritional experts note that they do meet one’s most important nutritional needs. Moreover, these alternatives could offer more balanced and

nutritious diets to those suffering from malnutrition. At the other end of the spectrum, technology can also help curb the overeating epidemic. Smart utensils, calorie counters and dietary diaries are some of the tools already available on the consumer market. They can help one become more conscious of what and how they eat and help them reach their dietary goals. Picture the following scenario. The mom uses a smart knife to cut carrots, the little boy uses a food sensor to get to know whether the bread in front of him contains gluten. The family possesses a 3D-food-printer able to print out the dad’s favourite four-cheese pizza, they have a smart scale, a smart fridge and all kinds of useful kitchen gadgets. Author The Medical Futurist Website medicalfuturist.com

ether, they are ether, with the help These allow them to eing more informed nd personalise it to s. No more surprise her unwanted effects. 39

04_Food for Future

I believe technology will not necessarily replace the social component of eating but rather, it can extend this component. Novel technologies also hold the potential to solve global problems from obesity to hunger.

These are the opportunities that disruptive technologies provide us today. Let’s use them wisely.

04_Food for Future

AQUAFABA CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

This mousse recipe is completely vegan, assuming your chocolate is vegan. As for toppings, try coconut whipped cream, fresh fruit, nuts, or a dusting of powdered sugar or cocoa powder. We find this mousse is best served the day it’s made. However, you can make this dessert up to 1 day in advance; any longer and the mousse will start to deflate.

INGREDIENTS 4 oz. semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped (or 4 oz. chocolate chips) 3/4 c. aquafaba, drained from one 15-oz. can chickpeas, or measured from homemade chickpeas 3 tbsp. powdered sugar

2 tbsp. oat milk (or any non-dairy milk)

In a medium microwave-safe bowl, microwave chocolate in 30 second increments, stirring in between, until chocolate is completely melted. Set aside to cool for at least 15 minutes, while you whip your aquafaba.

Combine aquafaba and sugar in a large bowl. Using a hand mixer, beat aquafaba and sugar until stiff peaks form and mixture has almost tripled, 10 to 12 minutes.

Add oat milk to melted chocolate and whisk to fully incorporate. Gently fold 1/3 of the melted chocolate into the whipped aquafaba until completely incorporated. Repeat this process twice more until all chocolate is incorporated. (Your mixture will deflate a bit—that’s OK!)

Use a spoon or piping bag to transfer mixture into serving glasses, then refrigerate until firm, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

04_Food for Future

05_Food for Peace

FOO FO PEA

OD OR ACE

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05_Food for Peace

How cooking triumphs over division in Israel and Palestine been turbulent. It’s the 70th anniversary of Israel’s foundation. It’s the 70th anniversary of the Nakba, the mass displacement of Palestinians. My invitation to Israel came via the Jerusalem Season of Culture: a progressive, not-for-profit arts organisation, which annually hosts the multi-disciplinary, multi-faith ‘Mekudeshet’ festival. The team also works year round on securing meetings between residents—a Haredim woman and a Muslim man, for example—who would never usually acknowledge each others’ existence. Occasionally, they arrange discreet dinners, which, as Riman Barakat, the The next morning, I read the activist heading up Palestinian latest on the BDS (Boycott, and East Jerusalem relations, tells Divestment, and Sanctions) me: “… allow people to open up; movement that’s pressuring Israel then, relationships develop. It’s to end its occupation of Gaza amazing how quick it is.” and the West Bank. The year’s As the sun glides into the Mediterranean, my first meal in Tel Aviv is a no brainer: hummus. In the relentless humidity, I opt for the closest spot, Abu Zakir, a Gazan-led corner joint. Decent (for the region) hummus soon arrives—infinitely better than any ever purchased in a pot. I mention to the Arab cashier that I’m curious if food brings people together here. “Food and music connects us all,” he replies. A hopeful start. Then again, I’m in the liberal bubble, the domain of ‘ sababa’, roughly: “Chill, it’s all good” (from the Arabic tzababa, meaning “great” or “cool”).

I ask her about the impact of the anniversaries, protests, and Trump’s decision to move the US Embassy to Jerusalem. “There were some very difficult moments, but we've developed a kind of resilience,” she says. “It's the product of persistent work building trust that is stronger than the situation.” After ‘Demonstrate Restraint’, an excoriating dance premiere by feted choreographer, Yasmeen Godder, I sample ‘Almost Shabbat’—a tahini, pistachio and saffron flavoured, ‘Dissolving Boundaries’ ice created for Mekudeshet by renowned Jerusalemite chef, Assaf Granit. During my travels, in Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Acre, Caesarea, Tel Aviv-Jaffa, and in between places; in homes and hotels, at restaurants and street stands;

whether feast or snack—tahini flows freely. Sometimes, it’s the appetiser, rousing hunger from heat comas atop tabun-baked pitta. It’s down with playing bitparts: teased into dressings to adorn charred vegetables; binding falafel sandwiches; a sublime foil for boiled eggs and fried fish alike. And, undeniably, a scene-stealer when enshrined in halva, or as the silken heart of hummus. By the end of the trip, I have a full-blown dependency.

centre functioned continuously for 400 years,” he says. “It was a community, with spaces for pilgrims to stay. Every Thursday, we’d cook ‘pilav’ rice, and after meditation, everyone would eat. Feeding people is part of my heritage.” It’s also a tenet of Sufi spirituality, as Bukhari says, “In Sufism, they say it's the highest form of worship, because although it’s not prayer, it’s necessary for survival, and so is appreciated by the God and Universe.”

Nevertheless, Hashlamon’s besotted with his artisanal operation. His handsome, sesamegrinding millstones were handmade by a Syrian mason who fled to Istanbul during the war, and the perfectionist chef apprenticed in Nablus, Palestine’s tahini capital. The milling is mesmerising, and it’s a luxury to taste his creations, including: raw, white tahini; red tahini, made of roasted seeds, and a ‘hardcore’ black recipe of 30% sesame, 70% Nigella seeds. “It's an ancient Arabic medicine called Habbat Al-Barakah, the Holy Seed,” explains Hashlamon. He also makes halva ( halawa), the addictive tahini confection that’s popular across the Middle East, and adored by Jews, worldwide, too. I have a serious weakness for it, but have never sampled any that melts in the mouth like his.

Missing authentic Middle Eastern fare while studying in America, Bukhari taught himself to make beloved foods, beginning with falafel and hummus, and swiftly realised cooking was his calling. He progressed from Palestinian staples such as mujaddara (a lentil, rice, and fried onion dish) to hosting supper clubs with globe-trotting menus. After his esteemed peacemaker father died, he returned home and merged heritage and passion into ‘Sacred Cuisine’, a roving, ethical, vegetarian/vegan business.

Back in Jerusalem, I enter a haven of a book cafe, Bassam Gallery, to meet up-and-coming chef, Izzeldin Bukhari, whose family originally emigrated from Uzbekistan to teach Sufism. “Our

Does he feel that certain notoriously contentious Levantine foods, like hummus and falafel, really ‘belong’ to any one culture? “We—Jews, Muslims, Christians—grew up here [over thousands of years]. Of course, everyone made hummus and falafel. The Israeli kitchen is forged of recipes from everywhere, but that doesn't erase them from elsewhere. We take from each other and add our own touches, which is how tradition

“Everything you’ve heard it’s true: the Holy Land is blessed when it comes to food” 49

05_Food for Peace

and culture come into being.” Over mint tea and fig cookies, NoorWEG founder, Islam, shares their extraordinary progress. She has a disabled son. Not long ago, there were zero provisions for disabled children, and scant means of raising funds, especially for women. In 2010, Islam gathered with fellow mothers of disabled children to offer Palestinian cooking classes to visitors. They’ve since financed a wellstaffed rehabilitation and therapy centre that regularly treats 45 children, and assists around 150 more. The empowering effect on the women has also been profound, and trickled out to benefit the wider community. In their teaching kitchen, Islam instructs me in a menu of mutabal (aubergine dip), mujaddara, and salads. “Everyone cooks mujaddara here,” she says. “This is because lamb is very expensive, so instead they love cooking with vegetables, beans, and lentils.” As we dice onions and char aubergines, she divulges how mujaddara recipes vary between cities, and tells me of the people they host, including kosher Jews. “I love it. I'm happy for them to come, because most people don't think about the refugees—about what that really means, they think

that the camp is like a city.” It’s an impactful and revelatory, but also warm, few hours of cookery while Rua, Islam’s scholarly daughter, and friendly English volunteer, Aatikah, work on NoorWEG’s website. As we begin to eat, silence—the best sign. The spread of hearty, fragrant mujaddara; smoky, light mutabal, and tangy, tahini-dressed salads has us reaching for multiple helpings. Sated, we linger over plump figs and coffee, before Rua gives me a devastating Camp tour. Having smoothly reentered Israel, a privilege of being a white person with a European passport, I realise Mekudeshet’s closing concert, ‘Kulna’ (All of Us), featuring Israeli, Palestinian, and North African musicians, is beginning. The music’s bewitching; the atmosphere, jovial. Yet I’m not entirely present. Perusing a stall menu, I spy ‘mujaddara’ and balk, recalling someone saying that the Israelis take everything from the Palestinians: food, included. But upon realising it’s made by Ofaimme, a sustainable farming enterprise, I swallow the vitriol. With its diminutive black lentils, it’s a world away from Islam’s family-style recipe. Author Suze Olbrich Website amuse.vice.com/en_us/

SHAKSHUKA

05_Food for Peace

INGREDIENTS 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon harissa 2 teaspoons tomato paste 2 large red peppers, diced in 1/4-inch pieces 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon ground cumin 5 cups (800 grams) very ripe tomatoes, chopped; (canned are also fine) 4 large eggs, plus 4 egg yolks 1/2 cup (120 grams) labneh or thick yogurt 1 pinch salt

In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil and then add the harissa, tomato paste, red peppers, garlic, cumin, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Saute for about 10 minutes, until the peppers soften. Add the tomatoes, bring to a gentle simmer, and cook for another 10 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened.

2 Make eight little dips in the sauce. Gently break the eggs and carefully pour each int its own dip. Do the same with the yolks, Use a fork to swirl the egg whites a little bit with the sauce, taking care not to break the yolks. Simmer gently for 8 to 10 minutes, until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still running. Remove from the heat, leave for a couple of minutes to settle, then spoon into individual plates. and serve with the labneh or yogurt.

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