POWER DRESSING

From accounting to runway, Egyptian entrepreneur Sara Onsi has taken an unconventional path to success in the fashion industry. After reconnecting with her purpose, the risk-taker is now designing for inclusivity and empowerment.

BY JAMILA GANDHI

While it is a common dream for young girls to live out their fantasy wedding in their perfect wedding gown, few take the opportunity to treat every day as a grand fashion show. For bridal and fashion designer Sara Onsi, life is about embracing the power of self-expression and creating a tapestry of diverse stories and journeys through her avant-garde designs, irrespective of the occasion. “We strive to ensure that the SARA ONSI woman feels confident and empowered in her sartorial choices,” says the founder and creative director of her namesake brand.

The 35-year-old Egyptian couturier has been inspired by the beauty of human connections for her upcoming debut of the Prêt-à-Porter collection, due in September 2023. From high couture to elegant event dresses, this collection will showcase a range of meticulously crafted pieces, starting at a price point of $600. “Inclusivity is at the forefront of the collection. We want to address critical gaps in the market, particularly in terms of larger sizing and modest choices,” she explains.

Combining aesthetics with functionality, Onsi’s designs offer bold and fresh manipulations that redefine fashion. In the seven years since its inception, the brand has already made waves on the global stage. With 15 collections spanning couture, Prêt-à-Porter, and bridal couture, Onsi has showcased her designs at the four major global fashion weeks; London, Milan, New York, and Paris. Her creations have graced red carpets and adorned the wardrobes of over 50 celebrities, including renowned names such as Yousra, Amina Khalil, Dorra, Fagun Thakrar, Hend Sabry, Lady Victoria Hervey, Nelly Karim, Mahira Abdel Aziz, and Mona Zaki.

Driven by self-discovery and a newfound connection with her inner voice, Onsi views fashion as a powerful medium for storytelling. “This new collection will weave narratives of growth and empowerment, marking the brand’s transition into a platform for individuals seeking personal evolution,” the designer adds. The collection will be available both online and in leading department stores across the Gulf region, catering to the discerning tastes of her Middle Eastern clientele.

In 2022, Onsi ventured into the world of ready-towear, unveiling her collection at Paris Fashion Week. Encouraged by its success and client response, she decided to expand its reach to the public, marking the brand’s first foray into e-commerce. This strategic move was a direct result of consumers’ evolving purchasing habits and priorities. “In the aftermath of the pandemic, we witnessed a significant shift in our clients’ desires for affordable everyday luxury pieces that can be enjoyed and worn repeatedly,” she shares. “This shift reflects a broader movement towards embracing sustainability in fashion.”

This newfound consumer preference presented a unique opportunity for Onsi, particularly in her home country of Egypt. Operating from her Cairo-based studio, Onsi leads a team of 35 full-time employees. In her quest for innovation, the brand manufactures its designs in Cairo, Beirut, and Dubai. “Luxury materials that meet our standards are often scarce in the Egyptian market,” she explains. “As a result, we import materials consistently to ensure the quality of our products remains uncompromised.”

Despite challenging economic circumstances, Egypt’s fashion industry continues to display a promising trajectory. According to Statista, the total revenue of Egypt’s luxury apparel market is projected to hit $139.4 million in 2023. The North African country’s rich heritage and burgeoning textile industry have garnered international attention. Notably, the iconic Pyramids of Giza served as a backdrop for Dior’s men’s pre-fall collection show in December 2022, marking the first-ever fashion runway held at this historic location. “My interest in ancient Egypt is about the stars and the sky,” said Kim Jones, Dior Men’s creative director, in a statement. “It’s that fascination with the ancient world and the parallels with what we look at today, what we inherited from them, and what we are still learning about the past.” Cairo further solidified its position as a fashion-forward destination by hosting the inaugural Egypt Fashion Week in May 2023. Over 70 Egyptian designers showcased their collections during the four-day event, blending tradition and contemporary aesthetics.

Onsi’s journey into the world of fashion wasn’t a predictable one. With a commerce degree and accounting major from Cairo’s Ain Shams University, she initially worked as a sales executive after graduating in 2009, and a year later joined Commercial International Bank as a business banking relationship manager. Although her family supported her traditional education pursuits, Onsi’s true passion for creativity and fashion had always burned brightly within her. She credits her artistic flair and inspiration to the influential women in her life, particularly her aunts and grandmother, who nurtured her love for handmade items and cultivated her appreciation for aesthetics. “From interiors to painting, I saw the tactile artistry of the women in my family,” she shares. “I always knew I couldn’t confine myself to a conventional desk job.”

An unassuming window of opportunity presented itself in 2011 when, at the age of 23, Onsi began designing her own bridal gown, despite having no formal training or professional experience. “I took my own measurements, designed my gown, and had it manufactured in a factory abroad, all without any technical know-how,” she reflects on those early days. “My goal was to have a modest, customized dress, not just another off-therack piece.” Her bold endeavor paid off, garnering widespread praise and unintentionally setting the wheels in motion for her future in fashion.

Word quickly spread about Onsi’s craftmanship, initially attracting requests from close friends and family. As demand grew, she seized the opportunity and established a part-time atelier called GUZEL Bridal Studio, where she began to give shape to her ideas and fashion her first creations. Armed with a sewing machine, a birthday gift from her thenhusband, Onsi started her business from her home. “It all began through word of mouth, and before I knew it, I had a full-fledged business on my hands,” she fondly reminisces. With her business gaining momentum, the part-time entrepreneur invested $320 (approximately EGP 10,000 at the time) to rent a shared workspace.

Despite successfully drawing clients, she couldn’t shake the feeling of insecurity that stemmed from her lack of formal training. Onsi was adamant about mastering her talent on a professional level and decided to pursue her passion in 2013. She enrolled in a twoyear fashion design diploma program at the Italian Fashion Academy and Art Square Academy, where she delved into the intricacies of fashion draping, design, sketching, pattern-making, and a host of other essential skills. In parallel, she embraced the joys and challenges of motherhood and worked part-time in marketing and operations for an international school.

A combination of determination and entrepreneurial spirit drove change for the fashion designer in 2016. Onsi’s willingness to take daring leaps led her to boldly apply her graduation collection to present at New York Fashion Week (NYFW), marking her first fashion show abroad. “I submitted my bridal couture sketches to numerous companies, and one showed genuine interest, requesting samples,” she recalls of the pivotal moment. “That was the push I needed to leave my 9-to-5 jobs behind and pursue my fashion full-time. It was a challenge to be on equal footing with other international designers.” By June, Onsi decided to conclude her operations at GUZEL, taking her couture and private clients to her newly established eponymous brand, SARA ONSI. Six months later, Onsi made her grand debut at NYFW, showcasing her inaugural collection of 12 exquisite couture pieces under the banner of SARA ONSI.

“For my name to become a brand, I knew I had to be recognized as a fashion designer by profession,” she explains the transition. “After studying fashion and honing my skills, I felt it was the right time to rename the brand after myself.” Onsi channeled approximately $3,250 (EGP 100,000 at the time) into securing a studio and kickstarting the operations of her new business, using funds she had saved during her time at GUZEL Bridal Studio.

Having made a strong start in New York, the fashion designer embarked on an annual collection cycle, aiming to showcase her creations at a fashion week each year. As her brand grew, she began adhering to international standards, transitioning to two seasonal collections annually. In 2017, Onsi dressed her first celebrity client, Egyptian actress Amina Khalil, for the El Gouna Film Festival. In 2021, the designer was named Egypt’s Women of the Year by the Minister of Culture, and in 2022, she was recognized in L'Oréal Paris’ Women of Worth campaign.

However, the smooth sail encountered turbulent waters with the onset of the global pandemic in 2020, bringing about a period of reflection. Three years after launching her brand, Onsi faced burnout in 2019, marking a turning point for her self-discovery journey. “Every working woman faces the struggles of being judged by the community to be a perfect mother, daughter, wife, friend, and entrepreneur,” she states candidly. “I struggled to strike the perfect balance and tried not to let people’s judgments affect my emotions.”

Through extensive introspection, meditation, reading, and grounding practices, Onsi began reassessing her priorities. She recognized the subtle influence of competition and the lack of time devoted to creativity and brainstorming. “Despite being seen as resilient and ambitious by others, I engaged in years of negative self-talk at the beginning of my journey,” she confesses. “Working on my personal growth and improving my mental well-being has been my most significant achievement, as it positively impacts both my personal and professional life.”

The transformative perspective had a ripple effect on Onsi’s work ethic. Since recalibrating her priorities and learning to navigate her time more effectively, the mother of two has joined the 5 am early risers club, finding a newfound balance between work and personal life, aided by the proximity of her office and home. “Just three years ago, I was lucky if I left my office before 10 pm,” she says. “Now, I switch off at 6 pm. I have learned I can’t pour from an empty cup.” Commenting on Onsi’s work ethic, client and Egyptian actress Nelly Karim adds, “With every project, Sara Onsi has always consistently been available and never let my expectations down.”

As an advocate of personal development, Onsi has learned to embrace the cutting-edge fashion of the unknown, adorning herself with the fabric of opportunities. “Being self-employed, my business degree gave me the strategic tools to manage my brand from the outset and consider the business side of fashion,” she says. Still, at the root of her long-term vision lies a commitment to fostering meaningful human connections and conversations through her statement gowns.

“I’m dedicated to empowering women to share their journeys and embrace their identities through my designs.”

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