Observer Issue 14 Fall 2023

the

Observer The Student Voice of Fordham Lincoln Center

Wrapping Paper Inside!

December 7, 2023 VOLUME XLIII, ISSUE 14

Fashion Special Issue

What’s Inside: 1. Don't Miss Out On The News

Student press conference

2. Expression 3. Design

with President Tetlow Page 3 Keffiyehs as a symbol

for Palestinian Solidarity Page 6

4. Industry 5. Fun and Games

FLASH Magazine’s Editor-in-Chief Page 13 The ethics of fast fashion Page 14

Crossword Page 16

Contents December 7, 2023

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THE OBSERVER

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Editor-in-Chief Maryam Beshara Managing Editor Ana Kevorkian Online Editor Quincy Reyes Creative Director Aurelien Clavaud Layout Editor Giada Evangelista Asst. Photo Editors Anum Ansari Owami Masiyandima-Mlotshwa Head Copy Editors Smile Butt Grace Ehle Asst. Copy Editors Leeya Azemoun Emily Davis News Editors Insiya Gandhi Alexa Villatoro Asst. News Editors Stevie Fusco Gabriella Gutierrez Megan Yerrabelli Sports & Health Editor Chris Murray Opinions Editors Jake Eraca Matthias Lai Asst. Opinions Editors Avery Grafeld Ana Winston Arts & Culture Editors Aditi Praveen Kariyanahalli Avery Loftis Asst. Arts & Culture Editors Julia Jaramillo Juliana Sharon Features Editors Lola Cravath Madeleine Signore Asst. Features Editors Colby McCaskill Caroline Sensenig Fun & Games Editor Abby Grunzinger Asst. Fun & Games Editors Damian Grove Jasmine White

Social Media Editors Eeshita Wade Shelby Williams Asst. Social Media Editor Sofia Strelnikova Multimedia Editors Lauren Bocalan Maria Terzulli Asst. Multimedia Editor Riley Kraus Podcast Host Morgan Johnson Podcast Producer Nellie Podokshik Editorial Adviser Richard Rosen Visual Adviser Hamidreza Nassiri

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Letter From the Editors Fashion is both an art and a form of expression that tran-

scends across different communities and cultural backgrounds. It

allows people to share an element of who they are — whether that be in a traditional settings such as cultural celebrations or muted

environments like the workplace. Each individual has a distinct

fashion sense and style, which can be telling of who they are and

how they choose to empower themselves through their clothing and their accessories.

In this issue of The Observer, you’ll find yourself reading

through the perspectives of various writers, some of whom have POLICIES AND PROCEDURES • No part of The Observer may be reprinted or reproduced without the expressed written consent of The Observer board.

• Letters to the Editor should be typed and sent to The Observer, Fordham University, 140 West 62nd Street, Room G32, New York, NY 10023, or emailed to editor@fordhamobserver.com.

Length should not exceed 200 words. All letters must be signed and include contact information, official titles and year of graduation (if applicable) for verification. If submitters fail to include this information, the editorial board will do so at its own discretion.

• The Observer has the right to withhold any submissions from publication and will not consider more than two letters from the same individual on one topic. The Observer reserves the right to edit all letters and submissions for content, clarity and length.

• Opinions articles and commentaries represent the view of their authors. These articles are in no way the views held by the editorial board of The Observer or Fordham University.

• The Editorial is the opinion held by a majority of The Observer’s editorial board. The Editorial does not necessarily reflect the views held by Fordham University.

• To reach an editor by e-mail, visit www.fordhamobserver.com

shared their views on the fashion industry and others who have written about the expressions people emote in their fashion sense, or the specific impact design has in different environments.

The main element to consider — and one that drives this spe-

cial issue — is the stories articles of clothing and accessories can tell about an individual or a community; this is especially important in

fast-paced cities like New York City, where people often only have a fleeting second to communicate with one another.

We hope you enjoy what we have put together.

Maryam Beshara, Editor-in-Chief Ana Kevorkian, Managing Editor

Don’t Miss Out on the News

December 7, 2023 THE OBSERVER

Tetlow Speaks on Tuition Increases

During a meeting with student press, the president addressed retention within the administration, campus developments and other pressing matters at Fordham

By MARYAM BESHARA and SAM BRACY Editor-in-Chief and Staff Write

University President Tania Tetlow fielded questions from student-journalists from The Fordham Observer and The Fordham Ram, the Rose Hill campus’ undergraduate news publication, on Nov. 27. She addressed a myriad of questions and topics, including the possibility for future tuition hikes, ongoing student activism in relation to the war in Gaza, and her vision for the Lincoln Center campus.

At the press conference, Tetlow said that Fordham will have to raise its tuition for the 2024-25 academic year to manage the residual impact from the COVID-19 pandemic, combat inflation and to keep up with the cost-of-living expenses for faculty members. She also spoke on the club status for Students for Justice in Palestine (SJP) at Lincoln Center, noting that Fordham will not recognize any group affiliated with the national SJP organization.

Tuition Increases Tetlow said that one of the biggest challenges facing Fordham — and higher education in general — is the rising cost of attendance. She said that Fordham has a responsibility to keep cost of attendance feasible for lower-income families while fairly compensating faculty and staff salaries and benefits, which accounts for two-thirds of the university’s budget.

Following consecutive tuition hikes of 4% and 6% from the 2022-23 academic year and the 2023-24 academic year respectively, Tetlow said that the university must do what it can to limit future tuition hikes.

“ That is what I very

much worry about, that we are hitting the ceiling in this country of what American families can afford to pay for college. ” Tania Tetlow, Fordham University President

“The cost of what we provide you does go up slightly over time and so that will continue, but we are trying to not repeat the 6%,” the president said, referring to the tuition increase for the 202324 academic year. “So, we are getting closer to modeling what it will be next year but I want to make sure it is not that high.”

The president added that the university must do all that it can to be frugal while it manages the residual impact of the COVID19 pandemic and inflation. She said that the university strives to expand financial aid to decrease the financial burden felt by lower-income families.

“That is what I very much worry about, that we are hitting the ceiling in this country of what American families can afford to

pay for college,” Tetlow said.

She noted, however, that Fordham will still have to raise tuition to keep up with inflation and cost-of-living raises for staff.

“We are trying to balance wanting very much to do right by the people who work here who are the heart and soul of the institution, while not pushing up the cost on you the students,” Tetlow said.

The university will continue to make efforts to approach financial aid allocation from an equity perspective, according to Tetlow. She said that the effective model involves increasing tuition for all students and holding back a portion of those funds to increase financial aid packages for students who cannot afford the increased cost.

“We did that last year and we are continuing to look at how can we be more careful and thoughtful because we do not want to derail any student’s career over $1,000 that they can absolutely not afford to pay because they have hit their limit,” Tetlow said.

“ It is hard to pin down

what stances (national SJP) actually takes but some of what has gotten posted on their social media ... has been really worrisome." ”

Tania Tetlow, Fordham University President

Club Status of SJP at Fordham Lincoln Center The president said that the university will not recognize an SJP club associated with the national SJP organization.

Tetlow said that the university would recognize a Palestinian student organization, but expressed concern over national SJP’s decentralized structure.

"What we're resisting is just the association with the national group, not the creation of a student group," the president said.

Students at Lincoln Center have been trying to form an official SJP club since 2016, when approval of the club was vetoed by then-Dean of Lincoln Center Keith Eldridge.

SJP is a loose network of autonomous clubs that do not operate out of a central headquarters or under one spokesperson. According to the National SJP steering committee, decisions over tactics and rhetoric are at the discretion of individual chapters.

Tetlow said that decentralization makes SJP clubs unpredictable and said the National SJP’s rhetoric online could be read as inciting violence.

“It is hard to pin down what stances (national SJP) actually takes but some of what has gotten posted on their social media ... has been really worrisome.”

As an example for concerning rhetoric from national SJP, Bob Howe, associate vice president for communications, provided an excerpt from a toolkit document

AURELIEN CLAVAUD/THE OBSERVER

Regarding the Fordham Lincoln Center campus, President Tetlow shared that she wants to have conversations that focus on developing more communal spaces.

distributed by the national SJP steering committee, saying that the excerpt was “inconsistent with the ethos of open, nonviolent discourse that Fordham expects and supports.”

The excerpt Howe specifically cited from the toolkit fell under the subheading “liberation is material.” The excerpt called on activists to “engage in meaningful actions that go beyond symbolism and rhetoric” and included a quote from Malcolm X. “You don’t get freedom peacefully. Freedom is never safeguarded peacefully,” the quote from Malcolm X read. “Anyone who is depriving you of freedom isn’t deserving of a peaceful approach by the ones who are deprived of their freedom.”

In the absence of an official club at the Lincoln Center campus for Palestinian students, Tetlow said Campus Ministry was accelerating its search for a rabbi and an imam to support Jewish and Muslim students at Fordham.

She added that Campus Ministry’s role in providing support for nonreligious students will also be expanded.

“The full time chaplains will very much be there for (Jewish and Muslim) communities whether people are actually religious or not,” Tetlow said. “It will be the person charged with thinking on a full time basis about not just the spiritual needs but the broader needs of each community.”

Administrative Retention Since the 2022-23 academic year, three administrators have stepped down from their roles at Fordham, including Fordham’s inaugural Chief Diversity Officer Rafael Zapata at the end of September, and Former Dean of Faculty of Arts and Sciences Eva Badowska and Former Senior Vice President of Student Affairs Jeffrey Gray, both of whom concluded their tenure at the end of the 2022-23 academic year.

Tetlow attributed the departures of university administrators in the past year to a natural end in tenure as well as the expected turnover following a change in university leadership.

“When you have a new administration, someone comes in and necessarily creates a certain amount of change in their worldview,” Tetlow said. “Some people are thrilled by that, and for some folks that's kind of not what they signed up for.”

The president added that an additional reason is that some individuals may have wanted to complete the term under her predecessor before deciding to retire. She did not cite any unified reason for the departures but welcomed an opportunity to bring fresh eyes to Fordham’s operations.

New Developments across Rose Hill and Lincoln Center The president spoke on making serious considerations regarding the Lincoln Center campus as well as “activating different spaces.” While the university has announced an expansion for the Joseph M. McShane, S.J. Campus Center and a renovated Marketplace on the Rose Hill campus, no new developments for the Lincoln Center campus have been announced since the expansion of the McMahon RamFit Center at the beginning of this year.

According to Tetlow, conversations focused on the Lincoln Center campus included creating a more engaged classroom and more communal spaces.

Tetlow signaled rough plans to repurpose the QuinnX library space as one of these communal student spaces, which was closed this fall due to budget cuts. She suggested that books currently in storage at QuinnX could be stored off site and accessible by request.

“We could store those books off site and be able to get them in 24 hours notice without needing to take up space at the center of campus in that way,” Tetlow said.

The president did not indicate that any specific plans for renovations on the Lincoln Center campus existed.

Stevie Fusco contributed additional reporting to this piece.

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News

December 7, 2023

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THE OBSERVER

Four Wins, Four Losses: Four Weeks Until Atlantic 10 Play

The Fordham men’s basketball team sits at .500 through eight games as it continues to define itself ahead of its Atlantic 10 conference schedule

By CHRIS MURRAY Sports and Health Editor

The men’s basketball program has now made its way through eight regular season games. The Rams sit at an even 4-4. After splitting its first two games at home against Wagner College and Cornell University, Fordham traveled down to St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands to participate in the Paradise Jam tournament.

The Rams beat Norfolk State University in its first game, 77-64 before dropping its next two against Abilene Christian University and Kent State University. You may remember Abilene Christian University from the 2021 NCAA Tournament and Kent State from last year’ iteration of March Madness. Fordham lost the first game against ACU, 59-45, and the second against KSU, 79-72.

Upon returning to the Bronx, Fordham faced Manhattan College in the “Battle of the Bronx.” Coming off of back-to-back losses, the Rams played with a vengeance. Fordham dominated its cross-borough rival, winning 93-61. This marked the Rams’ largest margin of victory in the series since 1986. The team carried its momentum into its next game, as the Rams trounced Fairleigh Dickinson University, 80-52.

That brings us to the Rams’ most recent game against Tulane University (TU), a top-100 ranked team in the country according to KenPom rankings. The two teams

COURTESY OF FORDHAM ATHLETICS

8.8-point on 9.8 Times Italic cutline goes right herey, with some more information about the photo runnin. 8.8-point on 9.8 Times Italic cutline goes right herey, with some more information about the photo runnin

met last year, with Fordham winning the high-scoring affair 95-90.

The Rams would not have such luck this time around in the Rose Hill Gymnasium. Although the Green Wave was playing without its leading scorer, rebounder, and assister, in Kevin Cross, TU ’24, the home team sent Tulane to the free throw line for 42 shots, including 33 in the second half. Fordham attempted only 10 free throws in the entire game.

Additionally, Fordham’s leading scorer Japhet Medor, Fordham College at Rose Hill (FCRH) ’24, failed

to record a point. Despite these setbacks, the Rams trailed by single digits down the stretch. The Green Wave finally pulled away, however, to emerge from the Bronx with an 89-81 victory.

“Those are some big time refs, it is what it is,” Head Coach Keith Urgo noted in the postgame press conference when considering the discrepancy in free throws between the two teams. “It wasn’t the fouls, I mean we still had plenty of chances.”

Urgo specifically referred to the fact that the game’s specific crew

of referees was extremely experienced, having worked many Power 5 Conference games throughout their careers. He also had a measured take on the loss.

“We’re a young team in a lot of respects, not as much experience… So these games, these tight situations, I really feel good that we’ll learn a lot from them,” Urgo mentioned as a key takeaway for his team. “You wish you learn in a win, but that’s part of the process.”

The men’s team has received contributions from both

newcomers and returning players. Its top two scorers are both new players, Medor and Joshua Rivera, FCRH ’26. Rivera is also second on the team in rebounding and has started all eight games so far. The man he trails in rebounding is returner Abdou Tsimbila, FCRH ’24, who is snatching 8.1 rebounds per game while adding 9.1 points per game. Fellow forward Elijah Gray, FCRH ’26, has also emerged as a scoring threat, averaging 8.8 points in an elevated role.

Other key contributors have been Antrell Charlton, FCRH ’24; Kyle Rose, FCRH ’24; and Will Richardson, FCRH ’26, while the rest of the team continues to define their roles. With that being said, Urgo has not been afraid to use his entire bench when the situation calls for it, as 11 players are averaging over 9 minutes per game.

Fordham is gearing up for its Atlantic 10 (A10) conference schedule, which begins in early January.

The non-conference schedule leading up to A10 games serves as an opportunity to establish roles and gain valuable experience against opponents of various skill levels.

The Rams will look to move above the .500 mark when they take on the New Jersey Institute of Technology today at Rose Hill. The university will also be hosting its SANTApalooza Event, with students encouraged to wear festive attire to the game.

Featured Sport: Women’s Basketball The women’s basketball team began its Atlantic 10 (A10) schedule on Dec. 5 against the Duquesne Dukes. Sporting stylish alternative black jerseys, the Rams fell to their conference opponents in overtime, 75-73. Taylor Donaldson, FCRH ’24, scored 25 points in the loss while securing 8 rebounds. Emy Hayford, GSAS ’24, added 17 points, 5 rebounds, and 4 steals. Mandy McGurk, Graduate Gabelli School of Business ’24, and Maranda Nyborg, FCRH ’24, made up the bulk of the rest of the scoring, contributing 14 and 13 points respectively.

The loss brings Fordham’s record to 5-4 on the season. It also marks the beginning of a lengthy road trip for the Rams, as they will play Siena College and Fairfield University away from home to wrap up the week before heading to Charlottesville to face the University of Virginia on Dec. 21. Immediately following this stretch of away games is the rest of Fordham’s A10 schedule, making the next three games critical for the team’s preparation.

Donaldson is the Rams’ leading scorer. The transfer from New Mexico State is averaging 18.9 points and 4.9 rebounds per game. She was also named A10 Player of the Week for the week of Nov. 27. Hayford has proven to be another formidable scoring option, averaging 11.6 points per game. Nine players on head coach Bridgette Mitchell’s squad are averaging at least 13 minutes per game, signifying her trust in the team’s depth.

Only time will tell how the Rams’ chemistry and cohesiveness will develop in the time between now and the continuation of their A10 schedule.

Water Polo NCAA Tournament The Fordham water polo team’s season wrapped up last week when it lost to the #2 ranked University of California Bears, 16-6, on Dec. 1 in the first round of the NCAA Men’s Water Polo Championship. The Bears would go on to win the championship a few days later. Although Fordham finished the season ranked 12th by the Collegiate Water Polo Association, only eight teams qualified for the NCAA Championship tournament.

Fordham entered the championship on a 8-game winning streak, including a victory in the Mid-Atlantic Water Polo Championship (MAWPC) against the 18th ranked United States Naval Academy in the final. This extended Fordham’s streak of MAWPC titles to three. The Rams conclude the 2023 season with a 24-8 record, with seven of the losses occurring at the hands of ranked opponents and the other one occurring against Brown University, which was receiving votes at the time and finished the season ranked 20th. Needless to say the Rams have solidified themselves as a force in the world of men’s collegiate water polo and should be similarly competitive next year given the program’s recent string of successful seasons.

Men’s Basketball Schedule

Dec. 10 / 11:30 a.m. vs. North Texas University

Dec. 16 / 3:30 p.m. @ St. John’s University

Dec. 21 / 12:00 p.m. vs. Central CT State University

Dec. 30 / 1:00 p.m. vs. Columbia University

Expression

December 7, 2023 THE OBSERVER

Models Among Rams

Three students at Fordham navigate the notoriously cutthroat modeling industry

By NORA KINNEY Staff Writer

New York City is a hotbed for emerging talent in the fashion scene. With its robust history of heavyweight designers and cultural pioneers, the stage is set for the next generation hoping to break new ground. Fordham Lincoln Center is a metropolitan touchpoint for young artists, and among the panoply of students are working models.

Ria Mehrotra, Gabelli School of Business at Lincoln Center ’26, hails from Baton Rouge, Louisiana and was invited to attend an IMG fashion camp in Florida at the age of 15, where she gained formative experience and exposure to industry leads.

“ If you told me five to

10 years ago I would be a model, I would have laughed in your face. ”

Ria Mehrotra, Gabelli School of Business at Lincoln Center ’26

During the pandemic, she landed her first contract after an agency reached out to her over Instagram. She has since moved on to different representation — Stetts Model Management and Natural Model Management in Los Angeles — and works primarily in the commercial sphere for brands such as Adidas, Maybelline, Crocs and more.

“If you told me five to 10 years ago I would be a model, I would have laughed in your face,” Mehrotra said.

But under the steady guidance of her current agency mentors, Mehrotra rejoices in her work.

She has always felt an artistic instinct, and loves feeling like a piece of the puzzle when she’s on set with photographers, stylists and other creatives. She described seeing the final product as “a total serotonin surge.”

“ It’s hard work, it’s

constant work, it’s staying aware of what’s happening on social media, it’s reading, it’s being ready to go at the drop of a hat. ”

Laurie Paul, FCLC ’27

The rewards don’t come without taxation, however. Mehrotra is a full-time marketing student, and juggling academics with work can be exhausting. For her, balance is about knowing how to divide and conquer. She said that stacking her classes on specific days of the week gives her the availability on her days off to focus solely on modeling.

No matter the hurdles, finishing her degree remains an integral goal.

Mehrotra’s friends believe her job is glamorous — a common misconception, she noted. Laurie Paul, Fordham College at Lincoln Center (FCLC) ’27, and a rising model, affirms this sentiment.

“It’s hard work, it’s constant work,” they said. “It’s staying

COURTESY OF LAURIE PAUL

Laurie Paul, FCLC ’27, (left) and Ria Mehrotra, GSBLC ’26 (right), have both worked with modeling agencies in California.

aware of what’s happening on social media, it’s reading, it’s being ready to go at the drop of a hat.”

Paul is a fresh face on the modeling scene, having worked locally in San Jose, California before coming to Fordham this fall. She is now represented by two New York City based agencies and has hit the ground running.

“I really didn’t know where it was going to go when I started,” Paul said. “I found that I both took well to being on camera and just really enjoyed it.”

While Paul dreams of walking for the luxury Italian fashion house Moschino, they are currently focused on building their portfolio and having fun with it.

Paul remarked light-heartedly on their tiny McKeon wardrobe that their off-duty clothes are often shoot clothes. They’ve curated their style to work in both domains, accruing timeless basics with personal flair.

Despite having just started her career, Paul is acutely aware of the time constraint on modeling. Getting her degree in art history will ideally provide some security if and when she needs to switch lanes. It’s also a subject that she’s deeply interested in, however, and becoming a museum curator is something she has kept on her radar after learning of the profession in high school.

This kind of dual pursuit is a part of a new modeling culture, according to Hilda Yi, FCLC ’26.

Yi began modeling in middle school in South Korea, after a hairdresser shared photos of her two-toned look on social media and one connection led to another. She has a lot of editorial experience under her belt, and was featured in a spread for Dazed Magazine Korea.

“Before, it was like, you want to be a model and that’s it,” she

said. “But the thing is, you can’t sustain yourself, it’s not regularly paid. The models I meet — they always have something else to offer.”

The artistry at the core of the work was a major draw for Yi. However, her current contract is ending soon and she’s considering her options.

“I do not think of myself as ending in modeling,” she said.

“To me, it’s always been a side thing. It’s not the whole of me.”

Yi is studying sociology, with a minor in film and television. She is interested in the research side of social science, and acknowledged how different that is from her modeling work. Human connection and group interaction are fascinating to her.

Yi shared that she might take a short break after her contract expires and reflected on the absurdity of modeling as a constant performance.

“It’s a very weird job. Some people wouldn’t even call it a job. You have to control your face, you have to control every action you do, because now it’s not even about you being on set — it’s about persona,” Yi said.

The obligation to uphold a particular image on set and off can be discomforting. Yi said that people tell her she’s an extrovert, which she noted she is reluctant to embrace. For Yi, it’s hard to discern whether her sociable disposition was a natural development of her personality, or a byproduct of working in front of the camera and striving to stand out at castings.

On the whole, modeling standards have come under public scrutiny in the past few years.

Calls for diversity have placed pressure on major companies and agencies to keep up with the changing cultural climate. Victoria’s Secret (VS), the lingerie titan whose “Angels” were the

face of stereotypical bombshell sex appeal, ditched their outdated branding in 2021. Their current approach celebrates a broader range of body types, and they’ve recruited new ambassadors that represent female success stories.

“ You’re an ethnically

ambiguous model, but then it’s like, ‘What size are you?’ The standards stay the same. ”

Hilda Yi, FCLC ’26

Mehrotra noted that these kinds of changes are promising.

She mentioned Paloma Elsesser, a size 14 model at the forefront of the VS renaissance, as someone who is breaking boundaries.

She also said she admires the integrity of her two agencies, who both “strive to have diverse boards and models as part of their teams.” To her, these are demonstrable signals of improvement.

The commercial world is undoubtedly ahead, but critics argue that this overhaul has just barely moved the needle on deeply ingrained beauty standards. High fashion is a seemingly indomitable reminder of those long standing ideals.

“I think I’ll be the most radical one,” Yi said, laughing.

“There’s no progress. I think the biggest misconception is maybe that.”

Yi acknowledged that trends do change, citing the current demand for multiracial models as an example. Certain expectations, however, are unwavering.

“You’re an ethnically ambiguous model, but then it’s like,

COURTESY OF RIA MEHROTRA

‘What size are you?’” Yi said.

“The standards stay the same.”

She pulled back slightly, admitting that social media has allowed for all different kinds of people to have a spotlight.

Even still, Yi believes this is somewhat disillusioning. Social media isn’t representative of the whole industry, she claimed, given that less executive oversight is required for individuals to post on public platforms.

Across the board, Mehrotra, Paul and Yi agree that the modeling world is evolving rapidly.

Paul mentions Tokyo and Brazil as two burgeoning scenes to keep an eye out for. Mehrotra emphasized the increasing overlap between modeling and other creative professions, such as styling and creative directing.

When it comes to haute couture — the exclusive custom-made clothing of prominent luxury fashion houses and designers — they all observe Europe’s reputation steadily surpassing that of New York.

“Now what happens is, (models) go to Milan or Paris first,” Yi said, referring to the designer runway circuit. “They go to New York later on, where things are a little more commercial, a little less avant-garde.”

As social media and technological advancements threaten to disrupt the exclusivity of legacy fashion houses, the future of the field appears uncertain.

This won’t stop the nascent generation from pursuing their dreams and seizing a new definition of success.

“There are a lot of working models whose names you’ll never know, but whose faces you’ll see dozens of times,” Paul said. “Just do the best you can, work hard.

And if you know you’ve done the best you can, and that some of it is up to chance, it’s easier to face all the pressure.”

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Expression December 7 2023 THE OBSERVER

www.fordhamobserver.com

Keffiyehs Signal Palestinian Solidarity

Students have donned the black-and-white scarves to raise visibility for the war in Gaza and the West Bank

By SAM BRACY Staff Writer

Around the heads of student demonstrators are black-andwhite keffiyehs, often worn as scarves in elevators or knotted on tote bags, and are a symbol of global Palestinian solidarity.

The keffiyeh’s traditional fishnet design has become synonymous with the Palestinian liberation movement. The pattern represents Gaza’s historic fishing industry, which the New York Times reported was restricted and damaged by an Israeli blockade in an article in December 2022.

Life has been completely disrupted in Gaza. The Israeli Defense Force’s ongoing campaign of airstrikes and ground invasion following the Oct. 7 attack launched by Hamas has wrought a staggering human cost.

An anonymous student, Fordham College at Lincoln Center (FCLC) ’24, who requested anonymity out of fear of being targeted for their pro-Palestinian beliefs, said that wearing a keffiyeh asserts that Palestine is still alive and there is a living memory.

“Palestinians are not people to be memorialized, they’re not people to just simply mourn,” the student said. “They’re still very much alive.”

The student, who is Muslim, added that they had been harassed on multiple occasions for wearing a keffiyeh and a hijab in New York. They noted, however, that being visibly Muslim and donning a pro-Palestinian

garb in the face of an intensifying climate of Islamophobia can be a powerful act in itself.

“Our existence truly does feel like resistance these days because even being able to display (keffiyehs) is something that’s shunned, something that’s shamed, something that is affiliated with terrorism,” the student said.

Manon McCollum, FCLC ’24, said wearing a keffiyeh calls attention to the ongoing humanitarian crisis in Gaza.

“Every time I would see someone else wearing it I would be reminded of what was going on, the deaths and the humanitarian abuses,” McCollum said.

“I felt like it was good that I was being reminded.”

McCollum shared that he now wears a keffiyeh every day following the shooting of three Palestinian college students wearing keffiyehs on Nov. 25 in Burlington, Vermont. He added that the scarf is a visual show of solidarity with the Palestinian people in his life.

“I chose to wear it every day because I know there are Palestinian people I interact with ... and just seeing someone on the street wearing it is just a reminder that not everyone has given up on Palestine, that not everyone is apathetic,” McCollum said.

Students for Justice in Palestine (SJP) at Lincoln Center sells keffiyeh to raise money for Medical Aid for Palestinians, which develops medical infrastructure in Palestine and — since the outbreak of war — coordinates aid convoys to the besieged Gaza Strip.

GRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION BY AURELIEN CLAVAUD; SOURCE: PAVEL DANILYUK/THE OBSERVER

Students don black-and-white keffiyehs to share their support for the Palestinian people during the ongoing IsraelHamas War.

Fordham SJP remains unsanctioned by university administrators since approval of the club was vetoed in 2017. In a conference with student journalists on Nov. 27, University President Tania Tetlow said that she encourages Palestinian students to form a Palestinian club but will not recognize an affiliate of the national SJP network due to the organization’s “worrisome” social media posts.

The anonymous student said that keffiyehs allow students to visually express their support for Palestine even without

a Palestinian club on Lincoln Center.

“Keffiyehs are such an interesting phenomenon happening right now because it’s not appropriation,” the student said. “It’s something that is publicly displaying solidarity and at a time when we need to have that visibility because we’re seeing all the repression within institutions.”

The student added that the marginalization of Palestinians both abroad and in the United States has also seared symbols such as the keffiyeh into public

consciousness alongside images of terror in war-torn Gaza.

“The irony of all of these things is that the symbols are now manifesting into our society as something that must be confronted, it is inevitable, it cannot be avoided, and I think that is beautiful to see,” the student said.

The global presence of the keffiyeh, donned by activists, students, and Palestinians alike, has solidified it as a symbol of solidarity with Palestine as the ongoing airstrikes and ground invasions from Israel have entered their 61st day as of Dec. 7.

From Fordham Basketball to Fashion Icon

Examining the style decisions of Academy Award-winning actor Denzel Washington over the years

By CHRIS MURRAY Sports & Health Editor

pieces of clothing, but to really pull them off requires confidence and precise coordination.

While Washington’s fashion choices reflect his persona, they haven’t been developed alone: The famous actor has worked with stylists throughout his career, most recently veteran wardrobe stylist Linda Medvene.

According to Medvene’s website, she specializes in “elegance, taste and understated refinement,” making her a perfect fit for Denzel’s personal style.

When you think about the Fordham basketball program, the first thing that you think of may not be impressive fashion statements.

Coverage of the players typically focuses on their on-court contributions rather than their apparel choices outside of the gym. There is one man, however, in Fordham’s storied basketball history that has defied this trend: Denzel Washington, Fordham College at Lincoln Center ’77.

Whenever someone tells you that Fordham athletes can never have any style, feel free to correct them.

Washington is known for his well-trimmed suits, stylish jackets, plain T-shirt and jeans combos, and an occasional hat.

The Academy Award-winning actor is known today for his numerous roles in various acclaimed movies and plays, but during his time at Fordham he also played for the junior varsity basketball team. Before pursuing a career in theater and film, Washington made the team headed by notable collegiate and NBA coach and broadcaster P.J. Carlesimo, Fordham College at Rose Hill ’71.

While he was not recruited and never played for the varsity basketball team, Washington had athletic talent that stood out. What’s more, Washington had a level of commitment that separated him

NATHAN CONGLETON VIA FLICKR

Academy Award-winning actor and former junior varsity basketball player at Fordham Denzel Washington, FCLC ’77, is known for his elegant and refined fashion sense.

from some of his peers, despite being a non-scholarship player.

“He was a level above 95 percent of the student body,” Carlesimo recalled in an interview with ESPN in 2013. “Very few of the scholarship athletes over the years were Lincoln Center guys, and it’s really a tough chore to be taking a lot of your classes at Lincoln Center and still have to get up to Rose Hill in the afternoon or evening for practice.”

Carlesimo also recounted Washington’s demeanor, claiming that “success has not changed him.” Statements like this speak to Washington’s sense of style. It is rare to see the acclaimed actor wearing flashy or uncomfortable outfits.

GQ even stated that Washington “pulled off nice, normal fits better than anyone else,” and featured him on the cover of its October 2012 Special Issue

titled “Our Big Fall Style Playbook.” Speaking of GQ, I think it’s safe to say that Washington is the only former member of the Fordham basketball program to make the cover of the esteemed fashion, style and culture magazine.

Washington is known for his well-trimmed suits, stylish jackets, plain T-shirt and jeans combos, and an occasional hat.

These may sound like obvious

In sum, Washington has been rocking his cool and casual look since he broke onto the scene in the ’90s. When he got off a plane at LAX in 1993, he was photographed wearing one of his most typical looks: stylishly sporting a pair of blue jeans, a plain T-shirt, a comfortable pair of shoes, sunglasses, and a Yankees fitted hat. It turns out that you don’t have to break the bank to turn heads when you’re out and about!

So whenever someone tells you that Fordham athletes can never have any style, feel free to correct them. Just point to fashion icon Mr. Denzel Washington.

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December 7, 2023

Socks and the Art of Noticing

Expression

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How a simple article of clothing can become the first step to self-expression

By QUINCY REYES Online Editor

Santa Claus gave me a pair of socks when I was 13. I hated them.

Imagine looking to your left and watching my wide-eyed, nine-year-old brother unbox a sparkling new MacBook Air while I pulled white and red candy cane patterned white socks from my stocking. It didn’t help that my parents hit me with “Santa Claus isn’t real, son” minutes later.

As I reluctantly shoved my disappointing gift into my drawer, little did I know that it would start my lifelong love affair with fun socks. Socks are the unsung heroes of our daily attire, often overshadowed by flashy shoes or stylish shirts. It is so easy to put our heads down and keep walking, leaving socks to end up going unnoticed.

Collecting socks and my hobby of acquiring all sorts of prints and patterns started as a way to subtly break the Catholic school dress code; I still wore the gray socks mandated by the school, but my gray socks had green leaves printed on them. Now at Fordham where I do laundry in McMahon Hall, it’s a lot easier to tell which socks belong to me: the checkered or striped socks, adorned with bowls of ramen or rubber ducks floating in a bathtub have to be mine.

There’s no room in my drawers for white or no-show socks.

To me, those are the definitions of fashion crimes. No-show socks are the Benedict Arnolds of the sock world and they betray the essence of what socks mean: rebellion, expression and a zest for life.

No-show socks sneakily peek out momentarily, only to slide down your heel. Their disappearance into the dark recesses of your shoes leaves your poor ankles exposed and defenseless.

For me, socks have become a metaphor for the simple act of noticing the little things. When I wear my socks, I don’t just see them as tubes of fabric covering my feet; I see an opportunity to spark a conversation and to connect with someone over a shared love for the quirky and unexpected.

It’s fascinating how a compliment on a pair of fun socks can lead to a genuine conversation with someone, a moment of connection in an otherwise busy world.

Wearing socks with different patterns is a deliberate act of rebellion against the mundane, and a stand against a world that often rushes past the little details.

They become weapons in a fight against conformity, against the sea of indistinguishable black and white socks that fill laundry rooms and sock drawers across the world. Every pair I wear makes a statement: I choose to stand out in a world where many insist on blending in.

It’s incredible how society conditions us to overlook the small things, to fixate on the grand and the glamorous. In doing so, though, we often miss the charm hidden in the everyday, the poetry written in the details. I learned this with my first pair of fun socks, those seemingly insignificant swaths of colorful fabric that started a rebellion and a revelation.

Embarking on the journey of becoming a sock lover had

its fair share of hilarious missteps and delightful surprises. I remember being in high school and wearing what I thought were palm tree socks. I thought I was trying to bring a touch of tropical flair to my day, but my enthusiasm quickly turned to embarrassment when my friends pointed out that they were, in fact, weed-printed.

It wasn’t until my first semester at Fordham that I learned to embrace the treasure trove of socks that I had amassed. While using my foot to open a door, someone walked past and complemented me. I wasn’t expecting them to also roll up their pant leg and show that they too had their own quirky pair of socks: alligators that seemed to bite up their ankles. This unexpected connection over socks opened my eyes to the possibilities of fashion.

Now, it’s always a highlight and a treat whenever I stop by Argo Tea to chat with one of the employees Rosemarie, who always compliments my socks.

My socks are not just footnotes in an outfit; they are the exclamation points, the bold statements and the unexpected twists. It’s amazing how something as small as a pair of socks can redefine an entire look.

They can elevate a simple pair of jeans and a T-shirt from mundane to marvelous.

I’ve discovered the power of a well-curated sock collection, turning an overlooked part of getting dressed into a canvas for self-expression.

In a world dominated by trends, my sock drawer is a sanctuary of timeless expressions.

Fashion trends come and go, but my socks remain steadfast, each

QUINCY REYES/THE OBSERVER

Even an accessory as seemingly small as a pair of socks can be a critical step on one’s journey to self-expression.

pair a testament to personal style. They are not dictated by seasons or runways; they are a celebration of what brings me joy. Every sock in my collection tells a story. The vibrant colors and whimsical patterns have become silent storytellers of my personality, my experiences and my evolution. Some socks scream louder than others. My blue and pink “I love my beagle” socks might tell you that I have a soft spot for my furry animal companion. The day I wear socks with ice cream cones might hint at my sweet tooth. I’ve built a wardrobe of narratives, with each sock adding a chapter to the story of Quincy.

In essence, socks are the

underdogs of fashion; while shoes often steal the spotlight, socks quietly work their magic as sartorial rebels, acting as the unexpected bursts of color or pattern that challenge the status quo. Socks do more than just keep your feet warm; they inject personality into your stride.

Socks are more than just foot coverings. They’re more than just tubes that slip easily on your toes. They are statements, they are stories, and they are an artful celebration of the joy that can be found in the simplest of things. Here’s to socks — the whimsical weavers of tales.

Here’s to socks and the journeys they invite us to embark upon, one step at a time.

Copenhagen Chameleon

Studying abroad in Denmark highlights the different fashion sensibilities in New York and abroad

By AVERY LOFTIS Arts & Culture Editor

New York City fashion has been all maximalist lately, featuring maxi skirts, glittering tops and dresses, and bulky cargo pants — or so I’ve noticed through my limited perception on social media. I’ve been observing the Scandinavian aesthetics of neutral tones and functionality for the past four months while studying in Copenhagen, Denmark. Through my travels to cities such as Berlin, Prague, Oslo, Rome and Dublin, I’ve noticed that what people choose to wear is attached to the place in which they live.

Cigarettes and tattoos are accessories in Berlin, and I felt bare without either.

When I’m in New York City, I often feel the urge to switch up everything in my largely neutral and bland wardrobe, but in Denmark — especially commuting between the countryside and the city every day — I haven’t been tempted to spend all of my study abroad savings on designer items from Ganni even once. Admittedly, my commitment to the clothes I can fit in one giant suitcase, which is mostly taken up by three different iterations of a white sweater, has gotten bland in recent weeks.

LUCA BARTH VIA PEXELS

Compared to the more colorful, louder outfits of New York City, Scandinavian-European fashion is much more muted and toned down.

Before I could even think about stepping into a Danish H&M or a pricey thrift store, though, I noticed people in Copenhagen wearing different versions of my white sweater, and the thought was immediately erased.

Similarly to some people, I prefer not to stand out with what I wear. I like to look put together.

Academic, but not stuffy. Comfortable, but not sporty. The Danish have this look down.

Most outfits in Copenhagen winters consist of: a quilted winter coat or puffer in a neutral tone, comfortable tennis shoes, a thick sweater in a pale or neutral tone, same with the pants which

are typically slacks, slicked back hair, a crossbody fanny-pack adjacent bag and liberal sprinkings of jewelry. Although I don’t personally bike in Copenhagen, Danish outfits are optimized for this activity.

Comparatively, in New York City, almost everyone is trying to stand out in some way. Contrasting with my experiences in Denmark, I hardly remember what it felt like to walk down the streets of Manhattan. I barely recall the capitalistic urge to step into Zara, Mango or Aritzia and buy everything I could to make unique, creative outfits.

What I do remember is spotting all types of people wearing the

likes of short skirts and flowing floral dresses that I wish I could manage to add to my own wardrobe.

I experienced a similar phenomenon on my trip to Berlin.

In mid-October, street style consisted of worn leather jackets over top thrifted shirts and pants. Cigarettes and tattoos are accessories in Berlin, and I felt bare without either. Berlin is a combination of New York City’s best hard grunge attributes, balanced with the soft sustainability and functionality of Copenhagen streetwear. It’s like being transported back into the ’90s, which is a thrifty aura most of Generation Z currently attempts to emulate.

Studying abroad is a privilege because of both the cultural experience inherent in living in another country for numerous months and the ability to observe various cultures and expressions, such as fashion, throughout the semester. Although New York City is a cultural mecca, being in a different country puts trends into perspective.

That’s all they are — trends.

What means more, if you care about fashion at all, is how you fit in or stand out from your environment. I often (unintentionally) stood out as an American — especially in Italy — because I love a quality pair of jeans. I somewhat regret my penchant for traveling lightly; this meant I couldn’t purchase a T-shirt or vintage piece of clothing on any of my travels.

Yet, my travels have influenced my style choices. After visiting Berlin, I find that I don’t care that my cheap leather jacket looks worn; it gives it character beyond the classic cut and ink-black faux leather. Traveling to Rome and Florence gave me more of a sense of how to look classy and artsy — this outfit does not include denim.

My experience in Denmark has taught me many ways to wrap a scarf, layer for cycling and ignore the glaring lights of shop windows.

Regardless of what outfits I wear, or whether my style changes to represent a Scandinavian-European amalgam of ease and class, I will be wearing these adventures, shrouded around my soul, with pride, like a second-skin.

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Expression December 7, 2023 THE OBSERVER

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Pieces I Will Never Get Rid Of

Be it a stylish printed jacket or a simple, plain tee, our clothing holds the memories we make in them

By JULIA JARAMILLO Asst. Arts and Culture Editor

It is common knowledge that the student body at Fordham Lincoln Center expresses itself through a wide range of clothing and styles. Walking through the halls or waiting for the Lowenstein elevators, you will see a variety of hoodies, hats, bags and coats. Beside some sneaker brands such as Converse or Vans, there are colorful Mary Janes, platform shoes and heeled boots.

From graphic tees to embroidered sweaters, leather jackets and crocheted cardigans, it is never a dull sight at the Lincoln Center campus, and behind every piece of clothing is a story to tell.

Our clothing holds the memories we make in them, whether

it be for sentimental or practical reasons.

Walking around campus, I find someone’s outfit catching my eye basically every single day, whether it’s sitting in class or walking through Ram Cafe.

When I notice someone’s outfit, I think to myself, “Wow, I wonder where they got that from?” Not to my surprise, many people said a thrift store. Others, however, pick up their pieces while they are traveling abroad which serves as a memory for their trip.

No matter where it came from, behind every piece worn by a student at Fordham Lincoln Center is a story. The pieces carry a variety of associated memories, and students are eager to share these stories —if only someone takes the time to ask.

Penny Joseph, Fordham College at Lincoln Center (FCLC) ’25, bought their jacket at a thrift store while they were in Toronto a few weeks ago for an academic conference.

As a resident, Justin Apice, FCLC ’25, said he likes his Birkenstocks because they are quick to slip on and wear around campus.

Not wanting a traditional school bag, Berk Civan, FCLC ’24, purchased his bag from a Vatican City gift shop. He brings the bag everywhere with him.

Diego Lopez, FCLC ’26, used to go horseback riding with his cowboy boots back in Texas. He said they remind him of home.

Connor Fieldale, FCLC ’26, has two other shirts similar to this one for swimming a mile and a half around the Long Island Sound for Swim Across America.

As an addition to her vast collection, Zoe Hall, FCLC ’27, got her belt from her grandmother who thrifted it in Brooklyn.

Alekha Beresford, FCLC ’26, recalled that she did not realize the item was a beanie when she first saw it in a thrift store back in Oregon.

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December 7, 2023

Expression

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Quiz: Guess the Major!

By COLBY MCCASKILL Asst. Features Editor

1. Colin Loughran, ’24

2. Mike Bennett, ’25

3. Joseph Papin, ’26

4. Gretchen Eberhart, ’25

a. Economics b. French c. Journalism d. Theatre

a. Chemistry b. Music c. New Media and Digital Design d. Philosophy

a. Visual Arts b. Medieval Studies c. Spanish d. Finance

a. Social Work + Mathematics b. Music + Pre-Med c. Entrepreneurship d. History

5. Luisa Ferreira, ’26

6. Sophia Gonzalez, ’27

7. Aiden Castillo, ’26

8. Megan Richardson, ’24

a. English + Psychology b. Marketing + Bioethics c. Real Estate d. Sports Business

a. Computer Science + Communication b. Global Business c. Spanish + Physics d. Visual Arts

a. Business Administration b. English c. Theatre d. Psychology

a. Theology b. Psychology c. Finance d. Italian Studies

Instructions: On this page, you will find several photos of Fordham students. See if you can guess their major based on their outfit! Answers are located at the bottom right side of this box.

10. Aysegul Yumusak, ’24

a. Public Accounting b. Film and Television c. Finance d. Mathematics

a. American Studies b. Classical Languages c. Political Science + Sociology d. Music + Visual Arts

COLBY MCCASKILL/THE OBSERVER

Answers: 1:C. 2:C. 3:D. 4:B. 5:A. 6:A. 7:C. 8:B. 9:C. 10:C.

9. Carter Mastovich, ’26

Design

December 6, 2023 THE OBSERVER

‘Rhinoceros’ Charges Into Absurdity

Asa Nestlehutt’s studio thesis production is a Kafkaesque comedy with a notable wardrobe and design

By STEVIE FUSCO Asst. News Editor

It’s a bird, it’s a plane, it’s a college student dressed up in a rhinoceros costume. “Rhinoceros,” directed

by Asa Nestlehutt, Fordham College at Lincoln Center (FCLC) ’24, premiered in Kehoe Studio Theatre on Nov. 14 as one of Fordham Theatre’s best-dressed productions of the semester.

Flashing lights reveal the ensemble cast, their faces painted clown white, adorned in iconic costumes and striking frozen tableaus on the stage.

Nestlehutt’s thesis project “Rhinoceros” boldly challenges the boundaries of absurdism and avant-garde theater. Written by Eugène Ionesco in 1959, the play is a Kafkaesque comedy that serves as a critique of human nature and conformity by depicting the cast of characters slowly turning into rhinoceroses.

The story follows Berenger (Jack Clark, FCLC ’25) the only sane man — who happens to be a drunkard — in a town descending into madness as members of the community begin to transform into rhinoceroses. Clark gives a hilarious performance and serves as a brilliant audience insert character.

Flashing lights reveal the ensemble cast, their faces painted clown white, adorned in iconic costumes and striking frozen

COURTESY OF FORDHAM THEATRE

Peter Chan, FCLC ’24, designed the changing, whimsical wardrobe of ‘Rhinoceros,’ taking inspiration from 1960s fashion and Wes Anderson films.

tableaus on the stage. Designed by Peter Chan, FCLC ’24, the wardrobe was heavily inspired by the early 1960s and expertly placed the characters into the period.

The scene takes a surrealist turn as Jean begins to transform into a rhinoceros in front of Berenger and the audience.

The costumes drive the show and truly become a plot device in their own right, rather than a mere accessory. Chan noted that

they collaborated with Nestlehutt to bring a Wes Anderson influence to the costumes, which meant bright and identifiable colors for each character.

White curtains mask the back and sides of the stage, allowing the cast to slip out of view, leaving Berenger and his friend Jean (Milagros Luis, FCLC ’25) alone in a cafe. Daisy (Riley Halpern, FCLC ’25), a girl in the town for whom Berenger has romantic feelings, appears in the cafe among other townspeople. Jean makes fun of Berenger for his feelings and says that Daisy could never love him because of his drinking problem; the two begin to argue.

In a moment, the cafe erupts into disbelief and chaos when the characters spot a rhinoceros storming through the street

outside. The townspeople huddle together in front of the cafe window and begin a hilarious — yet heated — debate about the number of horns and species of the rhinoceros seen outside. After another rhinoceros encounter, the seemingly small argument descends into an all-out fight between Berenger and Jean.

Rhinoceros encounters begin to occur more frequently and townspeople begin to disappear, but the audience isn’t clued in on the correlation until Mrs. Boeuf (Anne Lois Bullington, FCLC ’26) recognizes a rhinoceros as her husband, leading her to jump out of a window onto its back. The scene is a tremendous feat, and Bullington’s performance is hysterical, making it one of the most memorable scenes of the play.

Berenger goes to Jean’s apartment to apologize for the earlier fight in the cafe and finds Jean slightly sick. Jean’s condition worsens throughout the conversation and he ruthlessly criticizes Berenger and his lifestyle. The scene takes a surrealist turn as Jean begins to transform into a rhinoceros in front of Berenger and the audience.

The transformed rhinoceroses tear down the curtains from behind, showing themselves on stage for the first time and leaving the audience aghast. Their outfits are head-to-toe black suits scattered with numerous large horns that perfectly compliment the surreal and absurd motifs of the play.

Chan highlighted that the inspiration behind the costumes came from abstract art.

“Looking at research images and abstract paintings, I was pointed toward adding more horns as if these people are growing the horns themselves, as if them turning into rhinoceroses was not a natural thing,” they said.

As the play draws to a close, Berenger and Daisy are the last two people who haven’t transformed, and they profess their love for one another. Daisy, however, begins to succumb to the change, choosing community and evolution over love and leaving Berenger alone. Halpern delivers a heartbreaking and beautiful portrayal of the transformation.

Berenger resists the transformation and ends the show as a testament to nonconformity and personal identity.

“Rhinoceros” perfectly balanced a witty comedic show with profound social commentary dazzling audiences and leaving them talking. The play was wild and whimsical, but most of all a triumphant success.

Bundle Up for Winter

While dressing warmly in the cold weather will not prevent colds, you should still do it

By ANA KEVORKIAN AND QUINCY REYES Managing Editor and Online Editor

As the weather gets colder, parents all over the world zip up their childrens’ coats, pull hats onto their heads and mittens over their hands. They warn them that if they don’t bundle up, they may get sick. Despite its pervasive nature, the notion that you can get sick from being cold is, in fact, a myth.

According to Michelle Festa, a family doctor at Medford Medical Center, the only way to get a virus such as a cold or the flu is from coming into contact with that virus, often by touching someone who is sick or touching something that they have touched and then touching your mouth, nose or face.

The main reason people get sick more often during the winter, then, is not the cold weather, but rather the drier air, which dries the mucous membranes in your nasal passages and makes it easier for viruses to enter. Cold weather also has the potential to reduce the efficacy of your immune system, but most doctors agree that the effect is marginal.

While it may not prevent you from catching a cold, bundling up and dressing warmly during the winter is still critical when it comes to preventing frostbite and hypothermia — even when the weather seems to be on the mild side.

The United Kingdom’s National Health Service noted that frostbite is caused by exposure to freezing temperatures, which consist of anything below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. On Nov. 29, the temperature in Manhattan dropped to 27 degrees, which put New Yorkers in danger.

The parts of your body most vulnerable to frostbite are your extremities (hands, feet, ears, et cetera), which are exactly the parts of your body covered by winter gear such as hats, gloves and thick socks. When temperatures drop even slightly below freezing, then, it is critical that you cover up those extremities with winter gear to keep body heat in and cold air out.

Adopting a warm winter wardrobe provides health benefits beyond simple protection against the immediate dangers of frostbite. Proper winter clothing helps maintain body temperature and alleviates stress on the cardiovascular system. Keeping warm helps blood vessels dilate, which assists healthy blood circulation and reduces the risk of heart-related issues.

On the other end of the spectrum, cold weather can cause muscles to contract. This effect could lead to discomfort and reduced flexibility.

Wearing layers and appropriate winter gear provides insulation, keeping muscles and joints warm and

DEREK FRENCH VIA PEXELS

Even if bundling up doesn’t make you immune to the cold, it’s still important to wear layers to protect against frostbite and hypothermia.

flexible for physical activity and, therefore, reducing the potential for injury.

When muscles are cold and tight, even mild physical activity can cause muscle damage, leading athletes to feel sore just days after the activity. For this reason, it is even more important than usual to warm up in addition to wearing appropriate clothing when exercising in the cold weather.

Wearing layers becomes essential to regulate body temperature and manage moisture.

The base layer should wick away sweat from the body; the middle layer should insulate to retain body heat; and the outer layer should provide protection against wind and precipitation.

While bundling up won’t create an impenetrable shield against catching a cold, it can significantly contribute to one’s overall

well-being and health in the winter.

As we zip up our coats and slip on a pair of gloves, bundling up becomes more than just a precaution against frostbite or a tedious seasonal obligation. In each snuggly wrapped scarf and hat pulled over our ears, our layers become the stitches that weave warmth into our days.

To spin an old adage, an ounce of insulation is worth more than a pound of shivers.

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December 7, 2023

Gabrielle Pope Wants You To Know That FLASH Isn’t Going Anywhere

Design

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The editor-in-chief of FLASH magazine, the student-led fashion magazine at Fordham, shares her fashion background and her experience with overseeing the publication

By ELEANA KOSTAKIS Staff Writer

On a recent chilly November day at Fordham Lincoln Center’s Argo Tea, I sat down with Gabrielle Pope, Fordham College at Lincoln Center (FCLC) ’24, the current editor-in-chief of FLASH magazine, the fashion magazine, made up of Fordham Lincoln Center students. Upon speaking to Pope, I found out that she is not your typical fashion magazine editor.

Pope transferred from the University of Tampa and began her journey at Fordham in the spring of 2022, where she joined FLASH as a contributor and assistant for its magazine. After that, she moved her way up to opinions editor, where she became closer with the editor-in-chief at the time, Julia Demer, FCLC ’23, who soon recommended that Pope take over as editor-in-chief of FLASH. Pope described the former editor-in-chief as a mentor that helped her realize how much she wanted to stay on FLASH. Following Demer’s graduation from Fordham in 2023, though, Pope was left to take over a magazine for which most of the staff had graduated.

The day-to-day life at FLASH has been difficult for Pope; she often completes lots of work in small spurts, especially as pitch call deadlines approach. Yet, Pope remains collaborative and present in the magazine as much as she can. She typically emails her team every day to oversee editing and respond to students who would like to be a part of FLASH. Although FLASH receives numerous pitches, according to Pope, it’s clear many students still don’t know too much about the publication and what they do.

“A lot of people (Fordham students) I talk to here don’t know FLASH exists and don’t know that there is space for them to do this kind of thing,” Pope said The difficulty, according to Pope, comes after an issue is released. As the editor-in-chief, she has to market the newest issue of FLASH as much as possible to increase sales.

“After an issue is released, I’ll usually just send a thank you to everyone involved and then we’ll get into marketing that issue,” Pope said.

She is still trying to market the magazine as much as possible and planning photoshoots for FLASH. Their team recently sent out a pitch call for their 20th issue titled, “Indulgence.”

Pope said, “Since it’s our 20th issue, it feels a little special, so I wanted to lean into this kind of roaring ‘20s or ‘20s theme. So we went with indulgence.”

Getting out an issue for FLASH is an extensive and time-consuming process for Pope. Since the FLASH team doesn’t have a set time to meet to work with each other, they created an active group chat where all production operations for a FLASH issue can be observed. Although a lot of planning goes into each issue, not everything is set in stone.

Through the group chat they plan out issues, photoshoots, and which articles will be going into each issue. The group chat is also a way for the team to figure out who their new contributors are.

“It’s interesting because I’ve seen it from all angles. I’ve seen it as a contributing writer, someone who contributed for the photoshoots, as an editor, and now as the editor-in-chief. I see how

OWAMI MASIYANDIMA-MLOTSHWA/THE OBSERVER

According to Pope, not many students know about FLASH magazine, so she plans to market their upcoming issue as much as possible.

everything comes together, so it is quite a bit of work,” Pope stated.

Although riddled with her work, Pope is still a student and set to graduate in May of 2024. She said that Fordham has impacted her career and her leadership at FLASH. She had many professors who were able to help her out with pitching and getting herself out there in order to pursue her career in fashion. One professor [will look for name] advised her to pitch to publications and even helped Pope with writing out pitches.

As of right now, Pope wants a bright future for FLASH and is working on creating a masthead for their website. She would also like to have the first FLASH magazine party in almost 10 years.

However, Pope said that it is difficult to market the magazine due to the fact that most students don’t know that the magazine exists. She hopes for the magazine to grow into more than a university publication.

Aside from FLASH, Pope has made her mark in other areas of the fashion industry. Pope has interned at designer brands such as The Row, which is owned by the Olsen Twins, and Proenza Schouler, where she worked with social media and marketing. Although she was initially nervous about working for such well-known fashion brands, she gained insight and confidence within the fashion industry from her experiences.

Recently, Pope has been engaging in freelance styling, so far

working on a holiday campaign for Nars and the cover of Vogue Singapore’s September 2023 issue. With her internships and freelance styling experience, Pope was able to attend her first fashion week with Proenza Schouler.

“This summer, I was the digital content and social media intern for Proenza Schouler, and I worked with them and then with their fashion week show,” Pope said.

After discussing her experience with the fashion industry, Pope and I talked about writing and what it’s like to deal with writer’s block. When I asked about her relationship with writing as of right now, Pope said this: “I am very passionate about writing. I wish I did it more than I do right now.”

Students Transform Their Outfits by Recycling

Two sophomores shared how they learned to repurpose clothing to make their styles more fashionable and sustainable

By NISHKA SINGH Staff Writer

For some students, their love for fashion goes beyond shopping and styling cute outfits — they choose to recycle their own clothes.

Regina Chiem, Fordham College at Lincoln Center (FCLC) ’26, described the process of recycling clothes as taking what she finds in her wardrobe and putting it into a new context.

Customizing clothes and fabrics, Chiem adjusts the fit and detailing through specific techniques.

Chiem shared that she learned to sew from her grandmother, a seamstress who designed outfits for her American Girl Doll when Chiem was eight years old. Chiem then began recycling clothes for herself when she was 13.

Noting that her family is frugal, Chiem was compelled to upcycle her clothes to ensure she could be comfortable in her clothes and mindful of her economic circumstances. She explained that this autonomy in creating her clothes came to her “naturally.”

“For her, it was a means to an end, and for me, it was a way to make sure that I felt comfortable,” Chiem said, describing the different relationships her and

AURELIEN CLAVAUD/THE OBSERVER

By making their own clothes, Fordham students have created unique and sustainable outfits.

her grandmother developed with recycling clothing.

Chiem estimates having recycled at least 50 pieces and shared that she’smost proud of recycling a corduroy jacket and a cork bag she wears regularly.

“The inside lining of the cork bag that I always wear was completely trashed when I got it — I took the entire thing out and added lining to it and pockets, which makes it more functional

and allows for a bit of safety for my stuff,” she said.

Another student, Caroline Walkup, FCLC ’26, found a different path to recycling clothes.

Similar to Chiem, Walkup’s grandmother and aunt taught her how to sew and she began experimenting with the sewing machine during the COVID-19 pandemic. Since then, Walkup has recycled five pieces.

Walkup shared that her first

project was creating a corset top, which she accomplished by watching a do-it-yourself video on YouTube, and mastered the craft by experimenting with fabrics she received from Goodwill.

“I wasn’t really planning to have it go further than seeing what would happen with the little projects,” she said. “I decided that it was a lot of fun working with these materials. It was a refreshing new activity to do.”

Echoing Chiem, Walkup avoids buying new fabrics and gives new life to pieces and fabrics that she finds.

“I don’t like to go find new fabrics because with fast fashion, there are so many fabrics available now, and they are available pretty quickly,” Walkup said. “If I need to get new materials, I typically go to a Goodwill or a thrift store that has an abundance of clothes that need to be renewed and recycled.”

While Walkup and Chiem both learned to sew from their family members, they also utilized social media as a source of inspiration. The platforms that they both used include YouTube, which aided in learning sewing techniques, as well as Instagram, Pinterest and Google, which they used to find outfit inspiration.

However, the two students utilized different tools and materials to recycle clothes. Walkup transformed fabrics via a sewing machine, while Chiem opted for a needle and thread.

Chiem suggested that those who want to go beyond styling clothes to recycling them should not hesitate.

“Get inspiration from what you like, go out and see what pieces are going to help you get there — and don’t expect to be good,” she said.

Industry

December 7, 2023 THE OBSERVER

The Culture Around Fast Fashion

The biggest contributors to waste and global carbon emissions sits on racks of major clothing stores

By ISABELA WEBER Contributing Writer

It is very likely that you’ve recently seen Shein hauls on TikTok, a good amount of the clothing being deemed unusable either for the style or size. Where do the influencers put those pieces? Maybe they go to thrift stores, but often they will go straight into the trash. The fast fashion industry has created a monster of a problem with waste, as currently, 7% of global landfills are textiles.

Fast fashion is the practice of overproduction by clothing companies to produce large amounts of clothing for cheap, allowing them to sell products to consumers at a much lower market price than competitors and causing shoppers to buy more as it becomes more accessible to purchase large amounts of clothing. The cycle continues, with the supply always exceeding the demand.

With the advent of social media and influencers, people want to buy what they see immediately. Trends become shorter and shorter until they turn into “microtrends,” such as the VSCO girl trend, cottagecore or denim patchwork. Fast fashion companies thrived in this culture which shamed excessive re-wears of a clothing item, promoting it by supplying clothing within weeks of popularity. Not only did they supply the demand, they also created it.

There has been an increase in clothing consumption, with average shoppers owning 60% more clothing than they did 15 years ago, but in that same measure of time, the amount of times an item is used has gone down 36%. This means we are purchasing more, wearing less, and going through

clothing at a much faster and more alarming rate than in the past.

Fast fashion has become intricately bound with the modern culture surrounding our clothing, with the abundance of fast fashion companies such as Shein and Zara thriving. Their methods in obtaining the “fast” in fast fashion, however, are notoriously dangerous.

These clothing companies move to the location that gives them the cheapest labor, often paying only pennies per garment, in unsafe conditions.

Many workers for fast fashion companies operate under the threat of gendered violence as the majority of garment workers are women. The conditions and pay are extremely atrocious to the point that the garment industry is the second highest at-risk industry for modern slavery. One of many examples of dangerous conditions occurred in 2013 when a garment factory in Bangladesh collapsed, the incident killed 1,132 people and injured 2,500 more.

The second way fast fashion companies are able to produce such cheap clothing is due to the material their products are made of.

Almost half of all clothing is made from polyester, a plastic derived from crude oil and natural gas. In the course of a year, clothes release over half a million tonnes of microfibers (small bits of plastic shed from clothing during wear, washing or disposal) into the ocean, which is equal to 50 billion plastic bottles. Polyester is extremely poor quality, falling apart after just a few uses. This forces the consumer to wear it only a few times and then purchase new clothing.

The clothing industry is incredibly wasteful to begin with, and

fast fashion companies have only exacerbated it. The production of clothing uses an obscene amount of water — producing 20% of global wastewater — in creating dye, washing the clothing before the sale and then washing it once the consumer has purchased it. The use of synthetic fibers leeches microfibers into the ocean, the land and into our bodies, with microfibers being found from the top of Mount Everest to unborn fetuses.

The physical waste of clothing being discarded is discovered in each step of production to after the sale. The companies who overproduce either discard or incinerate the clothing they do not sell and all of the fabric they did not use for the clothing. Put in perspective, the amount of clothing created each year is 80 to 100 billion items, and 15% of what is manufactured — 12 to 15 billion items — are not sold.

Once the items are bought, the consumer uses it and then throws it away or donates it. It is for this reason that the secondhand industry is predicted to double in size by 2029. At the end of the item’s life, it is destined for landfill. Every year, 92 million tons of clothing end up in a landfill, and this waste will only increase as the fast fashion market grows.

The clothing industry is responsible for 10% of all global carbon emissions, with predictions of growing to 15% by 2030. Fast fashion as a trend and as a culture of overconsumption has created an industry that is incredibly destructive to the workers who make the clothing for a living, the environment, and to the consumers who are ingesting microfibers whether they have purchased the clothing or not.

GRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION BY TAE HONG/THE OBSERVER

Fast fashion is commonly made from cheap, poor quality material that easily falls apart after a few wears.

It is important to understand the impact this industry has, especially considering how damaging its actions are to those in every corner of the world.

There are ways that you as an individual can mitigate these effects. One way is to invest in sustainable brands and items of clothing. This ensures that the garment workers were paid a liveable wage in good conditions, and the quality of the clothing will last for years. Another way is to purchase clothing with 30 wears in mind, a number popularized in a #30wears trend. If you cannot imagine yourself using an item at least 30 times, refrain from buying it.

Using clothing rental sites where you can rent an item for a single wear can be an additional method to avoiding fashion fashion, that way it is immediately returned and does not sit in your closet afterward. Consumers can also reduce fashion waste by

purposefully choosing an item for the material it is made out of. Avoid synthetic materials that will not last, and opt for natural fibers like wool or cotton that will survive the countless wears and washes it will have to undergo.

This will allow individuals to be able to donate the item if they choose to part with it, instead of throwing away a torn or ruined piece of cheap clothing.

There are multiple ways to combat your role in the cycle of overproduction and overconsumption created by the fast fashion industry and social media influencers. It is one of the largest markets in the world and often, environmental causes can feel overwhelming with no options for the individual to do their part. However, with the clothing market being half consumer and half producer, this is a market in which you can make a difference.

ThredUP: Secondhand Shopping Done Online

The clothing company is the perfect alternative in avoiding Shein and the fast fashion industry

By AVA MIN Asst. Multimedia Editor

Thrifting, or secondhand shopping, has long been paraded as an alternative to online fashion.

It’s better for the environment, better for your wallet and better for your conscience. Thrift stores are far and few apart, however, and outside of New York City and other more populated cities, it can be difficult to find them. Plus, the prices fast fashion companies offer just can’t be beat.

The solution is ThredUP, the world’s largest and most popular online secondhand store founded in 2009 — around the same time as Shein, a Chinese online fast fashion conglomerate. ThredUP offers items in every style and season, as well as shoes and accessories. The company only accepts around 40% of clothing donations, and all of its items are fully vetted, checked for quality, cleaned thoroughly and described accurately in the listing. Just the other day, I bought a fleece-lined winter coat for $35 — brand new, with the tags still attached. Winter is creeping up on us. What does that mean for our wardrobes? New puffer coats, stacks of turtlenecks, layers upon layers of sweaters and mountains of jeans can amount to a very hefty price tag.

In an article review of ThredUP, Jen Smith, a personal finance writer, recognized that “not everyone wants to (or has the time to) drive all over digging around thrift

GANI PINERO VIA THREDUP

Instead of thrifting in person, ThredUP has created an online shopping experience that is inclusive and sustainable.

stores to find quality pieces.”

Real-life thrifting can be tedious and largely unsuccessful, especially if you’re looking for a specific item within a certain price range. On ThredUP, however, you can search by brand, size, color, style, price and so on. The company also offers incredibly inclusive sizing options (XXS-6X), as well as baby and maternity clothes.

So, why do people continue to shop fast fashion? In an NPR episode titled, “America Can’t Resist Fast Fashion,” Emilie Delaye, a now 21-year-old blogger, noted that as a teenager, being an “outfit repeater” was something that needed to be avoided at all costs, recounting that

“Keeping up appearances ... used to mean a trip to Forever 21 for a $12 party top.”

Not all consumers are aware of the consequences of their habits, which in the case of notorious fast fashion brand Shein, includes the usage of harmful and toxic materials, staggering environmental pollution, exploitation of labor, and microscopically poor wages.

According to Ethically Dressed, a blog centered around sustainable fashion, Shein is also notorious for cheaply copying and reproducing designs stolen from small businesses. When people purchase from Shein, all they see is the dirt-cheap price

tag. There is little consideration of anything else.

Secondhand shopping avoids all of the problematic issues the fast fashion industry causes. Unlike Shein’s made-to-order demand mode, secondhand shopping allows people to buy from clothing that has already been produced, so even if they purchase something originally made by Shein, they are simply putting an item to good use that would otherwise end up in landfill.

ThredUP carries every brand and type of clothing you can think of: from swimsuits to stilettos, blazers to denim skirts, and sports jackets to designer dresses. You can find all of your favorite brands with

a simple click on the filter, and they offer incredible deals on bundle shipping.

A study by the Public Eye shows that Shein produces 1.2 million clothing articles per day. ThredUP produces — well, none. Shein’s factories, which churn out our coveted $11 bikinis, have been proven to force people into contractless work, lacking both minimum wage requirements and buildings with windows.

Channel 4’s documentary, “Inside The Shein Machine,” sent undercover cameras to film factory workers who were forced to pull 17-hour shifts to make hundreds of garments a day. In one of the factories, workers made a daily base salary of $20, which would then be docked by $14 if any products had mistakes.

ThredUP, on the other hand, has an entire page dedicated to factory transparency. The company offers several programs to promote sustainable and ethical employment, such as their ThredUP University, Lead Development and Employee Care Program.

Take a long, hard look at your $9 Shein dress. Do you know whose hands made it? Do you know how many times you will wear it? 18.6 million tons of clothing are thrown away every year.

By shopping secondhand, you can avoid the prices of Urban Outfitters and H&M, and by shopping secondhand on ThredUP, you can avoid ever even having to go to the store.

THE OBSERVER

www.fordhamobserver.com

December 7, 2023

Thrifting: My Newfound Treasure

Industry

15

Secondhand shopping provides college students with an outlet to economically and sustainably express themselves

By EMILY DAVIS Asst. Copy Editor

Growing up as a middle child, I was always the not-so-proud owner of pre-worn clothes, subjected to wearing hand-medowns that had once belonged to my older siblings. Although as a kid I wasn’t a big fan of wearing secondhand clothing, I’ve grown to love the ritual of thrifting my wardrobe.

While society has been reusing and upcycling clothes for centuries, thrifting has recently become a trendy shopping experience.

Thrifting has supplied me with inexpensive pieces of clothing that I love to wear while also providing me with a way to help heal the planet. While society has been reusing and upcycling clothes for centuries, thrifting has recently become a trendy shopping experience. The concept of “thrifting” first emerged in the late 1800s, but there was a major stigma around purchasing clothing that was already owned and worn, especially if it was owned by a stranger. It didn’t help that the first thrift stores used to be called “junk shops,” leading many individuals to see thrifted clothes as “dirty” and a sign that a person did not have money.

Even though some may still believe that secondhand clothing is not clean, there are laws

and regulations requiring all pre-used items for sale to meet a standard of sanitation. Plus, after shoppers purchase apparel, they can run it through a washing machine, making it good as new.

You can find an abundance of thrift stores full of remarkable, affordable items in all five boroughs.

Thrift stores have historically been seen as places where individuals who could not afford new clothing often shopped, but the indignation around them has rapidly declined over the last several years. My TikTok feed is filled with videos of young adults giving hauls to show off their incredible finds from thrift stores. In the comments, users are supportive, expressing their awe of how inexpensive and stylish these items are.

Seeing this rise in popularity across multiple platforms inspired my love and passion for thrifting my clothes.

Secondhand shopping has become the new “cool,” but aside from it being a favored trend among today’s youth, buying used clothes contributes to the sustainability of our environment. Purchasing previously owned items stops them from ending up in landfills, giving a piece of clothing new life and reducing waste.

Additionally, creating new products, whether that be clothing, furniture or decor, requires many resources and a lot of

VIA PEXELS

Despite being an action looked down upon in the past, thrifting has become a notably popular trend among the youth.

energy. Fast fashion realtors require a significant amount of resources and are dependent on cheap, toxic dyes, contributing to the increasingly negative impact the production of clothes has on the environment.

Thrifting helps shoppers to withdraw their support for the increasing demand for new things to be made, decreasing the waste of not only clothes, but the important goods such as water and fabric that are used in the process as well. As more and more people turn to thrifting as an option for buying clothes, more pressure will be placed on corrupt industries, such as fast fashion, to reconsider how their items are made.

When new clothing is made, manufacturers often produce them with harsh chemicals and dyes that can be extremely harmful to the environment.

Growing the amount of shoppers who purchase reused clothes rather than brand new ones will lower the usage of these chemicals, protecting the earth from being ruined by unnatural substances.

New York City is the perfect place to start your thrifting journey. You can find an abundance of thrift stores full of remarkable, affordable items in all five boroughs. One of my favorite shops is LTrainVintage, which has its two main locations in Brooklyn and Manhattan.

I will admit that upon first entering Fordham I was a little intimidated by the student body’s ability to put together flawless outfits when I only had a few hundred dollars to my name. Just attending my 10 a.m. classes throughout the week feels like a fashion show, but discovering thrifting has

made me feel confident enough to buy clothes that I like, while still having money to pay for my groceries every week.

I’ve found that I’m able to compile outfits from thrift stores all over New York City and successfully express myself through my clothes.

My favorite pair of pants, a combination of blue fabrics with illegible words stitched on every inch are something you would never find at Forever 21 or H&M. Every time I wear them, I’m bombarded with compliments and people wondering where I bought them. They are unique and stylish, and I purchased them at a Goodwill for only $7.

Just because many college students are strapped for cash doesn’t mean we can’t wear clothes that are fashionable, sustainable and — most importantly — reflect our personalities.

‘I don’t think there are a lot of good products there’: Students Weigh In on TikTok Shop

The popular social media platform’s new e-commerce feature has prompted concerns over quality

By ANA KEVORKIAN Managing Editor

Social media platform TikTok unveiled its shopping feature, TikTok Shop, on Sept. 12, which is aimed at providing a new way for people to find and shop products. In the two months since, 8% of U.S. adults have used the platform.

The premise of the new addition to the platform is simple: Allow creators to link products directly for their audience, so they can purchase those products in just a few clicks without ever leaving the TikTok app. Creators receive a kickback from each sale, audience members can purchase items conveniently and TikTok rakes in further profits while keeping users on the app.

Throughout its short existence, the TikTok Shop feature has become known for its low prices, with sweatshirts and leather purses selling for under $10 and coupons regularly discounting items by greater than 50%.

Will Gualtiere, Fordham College at Lincoln Center (FCLC) ’25, said he purchased a “National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation” sweatshirt for “dirt cheap” on TikTok Shop.

“The only reason I’d use TikTok Shop over any other online shopping site would be the price,” he

explained.

Gualtiere noted that he was initially worried about quality or that his experience would be similar to one on Wish.com, a shopping site known for notoriously low prices and quality. He added that he has been satisfied with his purchases so far.

The platform has faced criticism for its low prices and perceived low quality, with Bloomberg reporting that TikTok Shop hosts items including a seemingly counterfeit Nike sweatshirt for $2.99 and a “naughty dwarf” sitting on a toilet for $6.99.

Jelaney Wright, FCLC ’24, said she shares Gualtiere’s initial concerns about quality on TikTok Shop, leading her to refrain from purchasing anything on the platform.

“I don’t think there are a lot of good products there,” she said. “It seems like cheap, fast fashion-y sort of products.”

Despite her concerns, Wright noted that she strongly considered buying the Shadow Work journal, a self-improvement diary, when it went viral earlier this year, but ultimately decided not to do so after seeing videos of other TikTok users mocking the journal and calling it “silly.”

“You could scroll past an advertisement ... and then right after it’ll be someone mocking that same thing,” Wright noted,

GRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION BY ANA KEVORKIAN/THE OBSERVER

Students express quality concerns over the low priced products sold in the TikTok shop.

explaining that TikTok’s comedic nature counterbalances the commercialization that has taken over the platform since the Shop feature’s emergence.

Wright said she continues to use TikTok due to her enjoyment of this comedic content, but she noted that the platform’s user interface often causes her to accidentally navigate to TikTok Shop with just a flick of a finger, despite her lack of interest.

In addition to traditional advertisements, Wright mentioned that the platform now heavily pushes influencer-produced content that links to products in the shop.

When a TikTok creator links a particular product in the shop to their video, they can earn an affiliate commission from any sales made through that link, similarly to the traditional affiliate model. Sellers determine the exact commission rates, but creators typically can earn anywhere between five and 30% of the product’s price from each sale.

Additionally, brands can choose to “whitelist” creators’ content, turning organically produced videos into paid advertisements, a practice that predates TikTok Shop. The whitelisting

system allows brands to promote their products to an audience in a more “authentic” manner than traditional advertisements, and it provides an additional source of revenue for content creators.

Despite providing an avenue for content creators to earn additional income on TikTok, Wright expressed concern regarding the overwhelming amount of advertisements and commercialization on the platform, though she noted that this concern is not limited to TikTok. “Everything’s advertising now,” she observed. “Everything’s a commercial.”

Fun & Games

Fun & Games Editor Abby Grunzinger

December 7, 2023 THE OBSERVER

Crossword: Fashionable Filmography

BY DAMIAN GROVE AND JASMINE WHITE

Across 1. Sauce, usually of the garlic variety 6. Component of a good wig 10. Period of history 13. Dinner, for a zombie 14. Egyptian goddess of magic 15. No, in Nice 16. *Fictional feline with two Things? (4 Wds.)

19. Nonverbal affirmation 20. Got to one’s feet 21. Cop, in slang 22. These cabinets display rare and strange objects 24. Very good retriever, for short 26. *A particularly regal title for a best man? (4 Wds.) 32. Grosses 33. Petunia’s relation to Harry Potter 34. Iron, gold or diamond in “Minecraft”

35. A long time ___ in a galaxy far, far away …

36. Automobile brands 38. Accessory symbolizing power when colored red 39. One of 100 in Washington (Abbr.)

40. Where you might find 34-Across 41. Fordham students may have taken these out 43. *Cinematic sisterhood? (2 Wds.) 47. Left no crumbs?

48. A goodie?

49. Trick 51. Where attackers might be kept? (2 Wds.) 53. 18-Down, for a dog 54. *Hero who always lands on his feet? (3 Wds.) 60. Language that uses hands (Abbr.)

61. “Man or Muppet” iconic chorus opener (3 Wds.) 62. Relating to a city 63. Word that leads to an engagement 64. Fight, for practice 65. Muscular improvements, slangily

Down 1. Soup named for carrots, potatoes and tomatoes’ respective vitamins 2. Can be traditional or Roth (Abbr.)

3. Alternative to almond, soy, or coconut

Logic Puzzle

BY ABBY GRUNZINGER

You got to attend an exciting New York Fashion Week show! There were plenty of stylish models in high couture brands … but now you can’t remember who was wearing what.

All you have are these clues.

Use the clues to deduce the item each model was wearing and to what brand the item belongs. The first clue has been put in for you as an example — use “X” to cross out the incorrect placements and “ ✓” to denote the correct matches. After you’ve placed every competitor, you can check your answers with the grid in the bottom corner!

Shoes

Handbag

Ash

Sasha

Hat

Dior

Gucci

Prada

42. The Navy’s version of 8-Down (Abbr.)

44. Ram-themed mode of intercampus transportation 45. Desert best visited in warm attire 46. Scheme 49. Paw Patrol catchphrase: “Chase is on the ___!”

50. Exams for fifth-year Hogwarts students (Abbr.)

51. The largest continent 52. Ousted Russian royal 53. In New York City, it’s at least $15 hourly 54. Wearing white after Labor Day might be considered a faux ___ 55. Ref 56. Rita who sings “Black Widow” with Iggy Azalea 57. Traditional Japanese belt 58. Sin/cos 59. An option at the nail salon

Rams Create: The Comic Section

BY WILL GUALTIERE

Valentino

X X

Naomi

Frederick

Coat

4. 2017 Super Bowl number 5. Entrails 6. “Getaway Car” lyric: “The ties were black, the ___ were white” 7. First Black tennis player to win the U.S. Open 8. Stan’s place of employment in “American Dad” (Abbr.)

9. Superlative suffix 10. Green Gables girl 11. Counterpart to a service 12. Fin 17. Donald Duck’s nephews or the Powerpuff Girls, for example 18. Spot for a lucky shoe?

21. Department of Justice investigative arm (Abbr.)

22. COVID-19, slangily 23. Slightly morbid bit of mantel decor 24. Can be found in contact solution 25. Sports : Rose Hill :: ___ : Lincoln Center 26. Oktoberfest order 27. A soft launch might indicate someone is this 28. Pink’s connection to red 29. What a secretary might do during a meeting 30. Many smiles 31. West Coast candy brand 32. Queens, to Manhattan 36. Vanessa Carlton would walk this distance a thousand times to see you tonight 37. Singing DiFranco 40. New York City baseball team member 41. Spotted symbol of good fortune

X X X

X

Dior Gucci Prada Valentino

Hat

Valentino

Sasha

Coat

Dior

Frederick

Handbag

Gucci

Ash

Shoes

Prada

Naomi

Item

Brand

Name

1. Frederick wore a coat.

2. There was not a Dior handbag in the show.

3. Sasha wore Valentino.

4. Frederick was either the Dior model or the Prada model.

5. Naomi wore neither a hat or a handbag.

6. The person wearing Gucci was either Ash or Frederick.

7. Of the model wearing shoes and the one with a handbag, one was Naomi and the other was Ash. 8. The shoes were made by Prada.

GRAPHICS BY GIADA EVANGELISTA