the
thread
STUDENT FASHION MAGAZINE
FALL 2011
128 THE COMMONS 607-319-4800 WWW.SHELDONHILL.COM
SHELDON HILL
VINTAGE JEWELRY
THREAD The
Fall 2011
We are looking for advertisers for our next issue. Please contact thethreadmagazine@gmail.com for more information.
THREAD The
Fall 2011
FASHION FACADE
STYLE CRUSADE
1
The THREAD FALL 2011
31
WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
03
EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS
FASHION 05
FASHION FACADE
07
FEMME NOIRE
13
GRECO MODE
19
MODERN MARVEL
25
BARE EDGE
31
STYLE CRUSADE
Looks Inspired by Cornell’s Architectures
Cornell War Memorial
Goldwin Smith Hall
Milstein Hall
Weill Hall
West Campus
39
VINTAGE VISIONS LOOK ONE
BEAUTY 37
VINTAGE VISIONS
39
VINTAGE VISIONS Look One
41
VINTAGE VISIONS Look Two
43
VINTAGE VISIONS Look Three
Beauty Looks Inspired by Vintage Jewelries
FEATURE
SENIOR DESIGNER
LIZ WHEELER
49
45
CORNELL GETS DRESSED
47
COSTUME COLLECTION
49
SENIOR DESIGNER
Two Cornell Student’s Fashion Start-up History of Fashion
Insights into Liz Wheeler’s Creative Mind and Collection
letter from the editor
B
eing back at Cornell for a new semester was an interesting transition from my summer in Taiwan. I traveled to several places this summer and was inspired by arts and cultures from all over the world. Also, attending Electric Zoo Musical Festival in New York City during Labor Day weekend broadened my perspective on fashion and trendsetting. Although the festival was based on electronic dance music, I observed styles and outfits that I have never imagined putting together before. Different from celebrities, designers, or even your fashionable roommate, the styles at Electric Zoo were new and innovative. Everyone dressed in a way that expressed their personal style rather than to impress others. I was extremely inspired by the artistic elements of the crowd’s outfits. I knew for a fact that these elements were drawn from visual arts and creative thinking, however, the liberty and individuality within the outfits expressed something that is so free, beautiful, and different—something that people don’t usually see everyday. I saw no restrain in the fashion: people were creating their own haute couture, inventing art using their figures as canvases. As a result, for this issue of The Thread we decided to take advantage of the arts and history Cornell University has to offer. With the help of my team, we have put together a fashion spread featuring prominent buildings at Cornell. The photo shoots for our fashion spread were especially exciting. Rather than just directing and organizing the photo shoot process, I was enlightened by the interesting historical facts about the buildings. Our team was also delighted to work with Stacy, owner of Sheldon Hills, a vintage accessory store in The Commons (see advertisement for more information). We used several pieces of Sheldon Hill’s jewelry in our fashion, beauty, and advertisement spreads. After working with vintage jewelry, I have to say that I appreciate the history of fashion—beautiful history because people lived their lives in it.
3
The THREAD FALL 2011
ELECTRIC ZOO MUSIC FESTIVAL
“people were creating their own haute couture, inventing art using their figures as canvases” Continuing with the idea of art and history, one of our articles features the Fiber Science & Apparel Design department’s Costume and Textile Collection currently on display in the new Human Ecology Building. Other special features of the magazine include a profile of Liz Wheeler, a senior design student in FSAD, and an interview with Shu Min Liang and Iris Mai, two Policy Analysis Management seniors who started their own fashion business at Cornell this fall. All in all, I have to thank my team for always supporting me. The most important thing that I have learned this fall is being ‘carefree.’ In the end, a blank slate is the origin of creativity. My college experiences and working with The Thread have shaped my perception of fashion. This publication was created in a state of fashionable ecstasy, and we hope you enjoy our perspectives within the Cornell community. Sincerely,
Bithiah Yuan EDITOR IN CHIEF WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
THREAD The
Fall 2011
BITHIAH YUAN Editor in Chief Fashion Editor ARIEL SODOMSKY Beauty Editor WHITNEY MCMULLIN Features Editor JILLIAN KNOWLES
CALVIN W LIU Creative Director Style Director ADRIANA BURTON Photographer EILEEN M. XIE Art Director VINCENT AHN Photoshoot Director ROBERTO CARLO SOTO
HOWARD CHANG President Webmaster SEN FANG Finance Director WEI YANG Advertising Director KATHERINE PATTERSON Marketing Director EMILY FIPPHEN
SPECIAL THANKS Members: Sally Schultz, Karmen Wu, Lesley Young, Priscilla Yang, Benjamin Wainberg Sponsors: Sheldon Hill, Ithaca Antique Center, The Cornell Store, Purity Ice Cream, Loose Threads, and Norabloom Botanicals
FASHION
FACADE
Fashion where it’s supposed to be, with styling and architecture working together to create a beautiful shot. We were inspired by the eclectic architectures on Cornell’s campus and styled our models with reference to these different styles.
PHOTOGRAPHER MAKE-UP HAIRSTYLE STYLING MODELS
WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
Eileen Xie Bithiah Yuan Calvin W Liu Adriana Burton Adriana Burton Kendall Gruye Faye Tsakas Levina Li Kelly Gordon
the THREAD FALL 2011
6
FEMME NOIRE CORNELL WAR MEMORIAL
NIGHTCAP CLOTHING dress H&M tights FCUK leggings SALVATION ARMY boots PETRUNE talon ring SHELDON HILL necklace, ring, hairpiece
GRECO MODE GOLDWIN SMITH HALL
H&M dress ALICE+OLIVIA wedges FOREVER 21 bracelet, cuffs SHELDON HILL earring, ring, bracelet MOOD fabric
MODERN MARVEL MILSTEIN HALL
AMERICAN APPAREL top H&M skirt FOREVER 21 cuffs AMI CLUBWEAR pumps PETRUNE fox fur coat SHELDON HILL bracelets REBECCA MINKOFF leather bracelet
BARE EDGE WEILL HALL
AMERICAN APPAREL swimsuit AMI CLUBWEAR boots FOREVER 21 cuffs TOP SHOP ring, bracelet CHLOE sunglasses
STYLE CRUSADE WEST CAMPUS
HELMUT LANG top ALEXANDER WANG sweater AMERICAN APPAREL leggings RAG AND BONE boots KARMALOOP cross ring SHELDON HILL bracelets, headband LEVITICUS ring, web bracelet
VINTAGE
VISIONS
We created dazzling beauty looks inspired by vintage jewelries. The sparkling and colorful make up complemented the elegant jewelry pieces and epitomized the meaning of glamour.
PHOTOGRAPHER MAKE-UP HAIRSTYLE MODELS
WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
Eileen Xie Bithiah Yuan Calvin W Liu Lara Gruye Ana Zapata Johanna Grazel
the THREAD FALL 2011
38
LOOK ONE 12
With her hair like spunned gold and dramatic dark make-up, we recreate the beauty of these vintage jewelry pieces.
the THREAD SPRING 2011
WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
MARC BY MARC JACOB necklace BANANA REPUBLIC ring SHELDON HILL earings, ring
LOOK TWO Her dramatic hairstyle and wild make up echo the elaborate and intricate designs of the vintage earrings and ring.
12
the THREAD SPRING 2011
WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
VINTAGE earings, ring
LOOK THREE She could live among the stars with her silver lips, sparkling eyes, and gems that enhance the delicacy of her silver jewelries.
12
the THREAD SPRING 2011
WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
SHELDON HILL hairpiece necklace rings
FEATURE CORNELL GETS DRESSED LEFT TO RIGHT: SHU MIN LIANG; IRIS MAI
w
e all know that Cornell is known for the gorgeous scenery, immense areas of study, and top rated food. But when it comes to finding good places to shop, Ithaca may be lacking… to say the least. This was true until two of Cornell University’s very own, Shu Min Liang and Iris Mai, two Policy Analysis and Management seniors in The College of Human Ecology brought the Cornell E-Dress Me site, in collaboration with the eDressme.com premier shopping website. Here, Cornell students can finally find the hot fashion they want, and even get to try it on at a Collegetown dorm site for affordable prices. The Thread gives you an inside look to this online phenomena as I got to sit down and talk style with the two founders about the company, the brands, and the fashion haven we Cornelians have always been looking for.
CORNELL
GETS DRESSED WRITTEN BY JILIAN KNOWLES
Can you tell us about the E-dress me site, and how it works? S: Yes, the E-dress me site is primarily an online fashion retailer [with] everything from Ali Taghavi to Love, Yu (a wedding dress collection!) We offer brands [like] BCBG, Nicole Miller, Ark and Co., and we’re still working with some other brands that are about to be launched as well, but we can’t discuss at this time! [laughs]. We also have our private label, which got launched a couple of years ago, called E-dress Me Private Label, the company’s personal brand. The THREAD FALL 2011
45
You have a store inside your Collegetown dorm! Can you tell us about that? S: It’s in between a store and a distribution center. You can come in informally if you want to try something on [from the site] that you’re not sure if you want to purchase. If we have it in stock, you could try it on based on an appointment with one of us. What type of clothes and styles of clothing does the site feature? S: Most of the styles you see are for females. We have everything from summer dresses to casual wear, all the way to business and career wear, and formal dresses for banquets and black tie events. Just everything a girl would need to get dressed! What type of clothes and styles of clothing does the site feature? S: Well, we are all from a very diverse background- if you ever look into the Cornell population everybody comes from [different] places…so there’s no majority for one type of style! The typical Cornell student’s fashion [on the site] are styles that we have looked at, saw whether we liked it or not and if it [were] imaginable for a typical Cornell student to wear on campus. We have seen a lot of different styles on campus and chose what we think would be possible to provide on our site… [and of course,] we select styles that we like! [Laughs] The two of you are always dressed your best when seen around campus! How would you describe your personal style? S: Spontaneous! It changes with the season and the weather. For casual wear, I prefer clothes with a loose fit. As for colors, I love white, nude, and solid colors that bring out my skin tones. I also love vibrant colors, especially during the Fall and Spring. I: Hmm. I like to mix things and patterns/ colors/ forms/ styles. [I try to] pick out something that’s eye catching or bright in color to stand out from everything else. Can you tell us your typical outfit for a day on campus? S: Sweater, leggings, and knee-high boots for when I’m dashing off to class. I: A rather simple top with playful patterned socks and leggings or pants, a more on the plain side dark jacket, and a bright colored scarf or bag. WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
What made you want to start up this site? We started this site because we always thought that the first time we came herethe first thing we wanted to do was visit a shopping center: to check out what was fun to do here. We’re girls- we love shopping, we’re shopaholics, shop freaks! [Laughs] When we went to the [Ithaca] directories though, every listing was food! We thought, “Does this place not have anything else but food?” And apparently not! We were disappointed, and said, “Oh my god, how can we survive here?” We realized that we would have to do a big prehaul shopping and ship everything up to [Cornell] which could have been problematic… There was no [window shopping] here, and everything you can buy is just food. So we thought it’d be cool to start up this distribution center/store available to Cornell students if they happened to need something on the run, or to try on some things that were interesting to them online before buying it. We thought that extending that option to Cornell students would be great for them. Working at E-dress me, we have access to over 30 brands, so we thought, “Why not share this opportunity with all of the Cornell students?” We thought it would be beneficial to everybody.
“Working at E-dress me, we have access to over 30 brands, so we thought, ‘Why not share this opportunity with all of the Cornell Students?’” What inspires your fashion sense? My inspiration comes from many different sources (friends, magazines, tv, celebrities, street, etc) There are many styles I love; however, not all of them are ideal for my body shape. Therefore, the way the garment compliment my body shape is a major factor to consider. Unique playful patterns or forms. [I like] mixing these patterns to create a modern and laid back look Finally, what is your favorite fashion trend seen at Cornell right now? S: Knee or thigh high leather boots, tailored jackets with that leather elbow patch, and vibrant colors! (My favorite now is royal blue) I: [I like] the kind of hippie look but [not for] myself! [laughs]
VISIT THEM ON: www.edressme.com/collegetown.html
FEATURE COSTUME COLLECTION
CORNELL
COSTUME COLLECTION
A
After 5 years finally Cornell’s Costume Collection is allowed to be exhibited, displayed on several floors of the new Human Ecology Building. Renovations on the old Apparel Design building had been going on for the past 10 years, resulting in no gallery for the last 5. This year they have their own space in the new Human Ecology Building with a small gallery to present exhibitions from the Costume Collection. The Costume Collection is a collection of over 12,000 textile pieces ranging from 800 B.C. and garments from the mid 18th century to now. Beulah Blackmore was the founder of the Collection. She was an early faculty member of the then-called, “Department of Home Economic” in 1915.
WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
BY KATHERINE PATTERSON
“She was the first to begin collecting historic dress for the department,” said Professor Charlotte Jirousek, associate director of the Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design, the curator of the Collection. Every piece in the collection has been donated. From the collection around 20 looks have been selected, and are on display to the public in the Human Ecology Building. A lot of time and effort has gone into each exhibition of which selected students learn vital aspects such as installation and work with the collection and catalogue. “There’s approximately two to three hundred man hours involved in planning and installing the exhibition,” Jirousek said. “It’s not a simple matter.”
The THREAD FALL 2011
47
Jirousek’s interested in gathering textile pieces from what past Cornell students wore as well as getting current students to donate items from their freshman year. “History is everything that has happened since the last time you took a deep breath,” Jirousek said. “It doesn’t have to be old to be history.” The primary purpose of the Costume Collection, however, is not exhibition. “It is research and teaching,” Jirousek said. She incorporates the Collection very heavily in her classes. Students are able to make use of the Collection for their own studies. “It’s got a great vintage collection,” Lulu Mu, a junior Fiber Science and Apparel Design student, said. “It’s really good for research.” As for what’s next for the gallery to be displayed? Well there’s 12,000 pieces to choose from.
FEATURE SENIOR DESIGNER
L
iving in a secluded forest amongst pet snakes may not be the usual aspiration for a fashion design student; however for Liz Wheeler, a senior Cornellian, it’s perfect. “I kind of have this romantic dream of living in the woods,” Liz said. “Just be able to work on art.” Liz arrives slightly flustered from her morning so far, already having fallen off her bicycle and developed an irritation in her left eye. Her hair is black with vivid blue sections and her apparel consists of skeleton earrings and a necklace, an orange Clockwork Orange tee, black skinny jeans and Doc Martins: fully embracing the 31st of October. Appearing not too dampened by the morning’s events, she whips out her recently purchased Halloween gift for herself, Lady Gaga iPod headphones. “No one else will [buy them] because they’re mad expensive,” Liz said. “But they’re so cool!” Liz’s artistic calling started with making beanie baby clothes and furniture with her mother’s sewing machine. “I’ve always wanted to do art,” she said. “Sewing kind of became the way that I wanted to express my artistic side.”
PROFILE OF
LIZ WHEELER BY KATHERINE PATTERSON
Her decision was rather hesitant to jump right into fashion and design as during high school she had a heavy focus on academics. Cornell was an attractive path due to its academic prestige and its arts courses. She took a summer class of Art as an Experience at Cornell which convinced her of her decision to come. “That basically sealed the deal. I loved it so much.” Liz has stayed away from internships during her summers at Cornell, preferring to take her own route. The first summer she spent three weeks in London at Central Saint Martins, College of Art and Design. “It was a lot more concept based and I loved that,” she said. The next two summers she completed fiber art projects for the Kuhlman Foundation scholarship. Though Liz’s aim is to become more of an ‘artist’ doing a range of creative works, rather than a fashion designer, fashion will always play a part in her art. She sees herself as having similar interests as her mother with art. “She’s kind of like a dabbler like I am.” Both her parents are supportive of her decision to do art. “They’re very happy if I’m happy,” she said.
Liz isn’t exactly sure of her path after Cornell, but knows it will involve something creative. Liz, also commonly known as “the girl with the wacky hair,” is considering enrolling in a makeup and hairdresser course after graduating. Costume design for film is another career path Liz is considering. “Film is a passion,” she said. “It actually does shape the way I work a lot.” Liz’s creative name, Missus Foe, is named after a 2007 Scottish drama film called Mister Foe, coincidently a character who lives in the secluded woods. A new love in her life, aside from the Lady Gaga headphones, is her pet snake called Anita, Darling. “Like in 101 Dalmatians,” she said. “It’s nice to come home and have her in my room.” If it was the last day on earth Liz would live it in style. “I would buy an Alexander McQueen dress and wear that,” she said “I would defiantly need something of his!” WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
The THREAD FALL 2011
50
FEATURE SENIOR DESIGNER LIZ WHEELER
It is this escapism and fantasy that drives her inspirations. “Usually my concepts are based on a character, which I figure out through research and creation.” Liz’s use of character was on full display this past spring in her CFC collection, M. Eldritch’s Creature Carnival. She says that she began with named characters, such as “the Giantess” and “La Femme de la Mer,” and then made outfits based on them. “I had this idea of the characters being trapped in a Victorian freak show, staying immortal, being overgrown by forest, and I was playing the person who was directing them, kind of owning them.” Liz’s work with the unusual reminds me of an Alexander McQueen quote about finding beauty in what others might perceive as ugly. Liz gushes that, “McQueen is my all-time favorite designer, so much of what he said makes so much sense to me.” We spend a few minutes sharing our love for the breathtaking McQueen “Savage Beauty” exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum before returning to the topic at hand. “Beauty is a top priority, but my definition is different from a lot of people’s; it’s the draw of something, why something is fascinating. The characters have to have an emotional ugliness to be like no one else, not one of the masses.”
LIZ WHEELER
T
M. ELDRITCH’S CREATURE CARNIVAL BY ARIEL SODOMSKY
hree days later, Liz Wheeler is working on a project for class. No books or powerpoints needed, just some fabric, beads, and a needle and thread. “Mermaids are the theme I’m working with right now,” she shares as she puts down the blue fabric to show me the many images she keeps in a folder for inspiration. I’m thoroughly impressed; this girl has clearly done her research, which she says is both a good and bad thing. “I have a lot of research to back up my design, which makes it more meaningful.” At the same time, Liz worries that she is copying something that she’s noticed during her research. “I ask myself, ‘Have I seen this before? Am I redesigning something that’s already been there?’” After this serious moment, Liz lets out a laugh. “And sometimes, I just spend so much time doing research that I fall behind on the actual project!” Despite her talent and fantastical designs, Liz is easy to talk to and engaging. She is wearing a sleeveless white, floral dress with dangly gold earrings and a necklace with gold bullet charms that she made herself. I start off by asking what her design philosophy, “reality is the enemy of beauty,” means in terms of her work. She believes that creating things that are realistic is against the point of creation, and the purpose of art is to create a statement on reality and/or escape from it. “I take something that could never really happen and make it happen.”
WWW.CORNELLFASHION.COM
With her out-there ideas and intense appreciation for fashion (she tells me that she tripped earlier today because she was so busy watching a guy in a really cool sweater), Liz Wheeler is definitely not one of the masses. When I ask about the inspiration for her upcoming CFC collection, she describes it as a “grungy, warrior fairytale princess/prince of the forest with influence from 1960s schoolgirl/boy, but I promise I have a very clear picture!” Somehow, despite the fact that I have no idea what that means, I’m sure she knows exactly what she’s doing. The THREAD FALL 2011
52
THE THREAD BEHIND THE SCENES
s d a e r h t e s loo nky clothes es fun andforfuwomen of all ag
M-F 10-7. SUN 12-6 118 The Commons, Ithaca, NY14853 tel. 607-275-3359
everything for life, Cornell style.
The Cornell Store: Sensational selection. Expert advice. Great service.
135 Ho Plaza
|
store.cornell.edu
|
607.255.4111
Have Fun 1607 TRUMANSBURG RD TEL.607-272-3611 Ithacaantiquecenter.com
ITHACA ANTIQUE CENTER