The Serious Hiker's Guide To Hong Kong

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THE SERIOUS

Hiker’s Guide to Hong Kong

The Hong Kong Trail The Wilson Trail The MacLehose Trail The Lantau Trail

PETE SPURRIER



The Hong Kong Trail


Hong Kong Trail STAG E

Wilson Trail SIU MA SHAN

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渣甸山

Mount Parker

5

Jardine’s Lookout d

oa

R er

tl

Wong Nei Chung Gap 黃泥涌峽 > Mount Parker Road 柏 架 山 道

nt

Bu

JARDINE’S LOOKOUT 433m

ou

M

Quarry MOUNT BUTLER 436m

55

MOUNT PARKER 531m

MOUNT PARKER ROAD 柏架山道

6

QUARRY GAP (TAI FUNG AU)

4.0 km / 1.5 hours Wo n g

p Road Ga

Ro

a

ng hu iC Ne

Hong Kong Tennis Centre

Tam Reservoir Tai

d

Tai Tam Reservoir

Petrol Station

y lse Ba Repu

HK Parkview JARDINE’S 5 LOOKOUT WONG NEI Wong Nei Chung CHUNG GAP Reservoir Park 黃泥涌峽

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Starting at Wong Nei Chung Gap Board either buses 6 or 66 at Exchange Square. Alight at the stop near the Cricket Club at Wong Nei Chung Gap. The name refers to the yellow muddy river which once flowed down through Happy Valley to the sea.

H051 Paddling beneath Parkview

36 The Serious Hiker’s Guide – Hong Kong Trail

Passing the petrol station, mount the flight of steps on the left to join Tai Tam Reservoir Road. The trail rises steadily, past the stone retaining walls of the Wong Nei Chung Reservoir near H051, to the vast residential complex of Parkview. A supermarket here allows you a last chance to stock up with drinks.


You can’t miss the wooden archway which allows access to the Tai Tam Country Park. It may strike you as an overly triumphal gesture, quite disproportionate to the simple hiking trail it is there to introduce. The path joins forces here with the Wilson Trail, and together they head north to the summit of Jardine’s Lookout. Here at H052, is erected a sombre black-marble memorial in honour of the Winnipeg Grenadiers – a reminder of Canada’s contribution to the defence of Hong Kong during the Second World War. This promontory at H055, offers an amazing panorama (following spread) of the city and harbour, Wan Chai and Causeway Bay acting as foreground for the dramatic office towers of Central. The unusual angle of view clearly shows how close the city lies to the green mountains which encircle it. H053 Pleasing perspective: south of the Island

A gateway greeting for two major trails

H052 Staunch defenders from distant shores


H055 Jardine’s Lookout: a fresh perspective on the city below



Kowloon laid bare for mid-week hikers

Moving on, the trail skirts the quarry at Mount Butler Road and bids farewell to the Wilson Trail near H058. We continue east in the general direction of Gulliver’s giant golf ball, which sits teed up on Mount Parker as if ready to be struck across the water towards Kowloon. A slow ascent is now made to the pointed summit of Mount Butler, part of the way enclosed by high foliage, forming a corridor through verdant bamboo.

Great views of the varied Tai Tam reservoirs (following spread) are available from this vantage point, ranging from the Intermediate Reservoir with its impressively tall dam to traffic crossing the main spillway. A viewing compass helps you identify landmarks such as Redhill and Tai Tam Harbour. Descend by way of no fewer than 589 steps to Quarry Gap (or in Chinese, Great Wind Pass), where there is an open picnic area in which to allow brief respite to sore ankles. To return to the city, take Mount Parker Road downhill to Quarry Bay – a rather long walk. Or continue straight on to Stage 6. H056 Spot light on the steel forest: a citadel of commerce


First glimpse of the South H057 Kai Tak panorama: looking across at Kowloon



Tai Tam Country Park, beloved green lung of the city



The Wilson Trail


10

u Ta

k Ko

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Egret Sanctuary A Chau

Sh

STAG E

a

Wilson Trail

TAI WAN

Nam Chung River

Pat Sin Leng 八仙嶺 Pat Sin Leng 八 仙 嶺 > Nam Chung 南 涌 6.8 km / 2.5 hours

Starling lnlet

Luk Keng Road

LUK KENG NAM CHUNG LO UK NAM ISH CHUNG FIN 南涌

LO LUNG TIN

Sir Edward Youde’s Memorial Pavilion

135

Ha Tsat Muk Kiu

Sheung Tsat Muk Kiu

Starting at Pat Sin Leng

130

Wang Shan Keuk

Ha Tsuen Take the MTR to Tai Po Market and board either the 75K at the bus station or Minibus 20C. Alternatively a taxi ride is in the 125 region of $60. Alight at the Tai Mei Tuk bus PAT SIN LENG 10 terminus and follow the Bride’s Pool Road uphill 八仙嶺 to the Country Parks Visitor Centre. Starting at Marker 1 of the Pat Sin Leng Nature Trail follow it around the hillside, catching occasional views of the wide Plover Cove Reservoir. On the way up at the Spring Breeze Pavilion one is reminded of the tragedy that befell four students and two teachers who perished in hillside fires in 1996. The Wilson Trail comes down to join you from the left, at Marker 13 of the nature trail, near the PCCW emergency phone.

As you head north, in lovely hiking conditions with overhead shade on dirt track with rocks, roots and fallen leaves to negotiate, you cross a sun-baked landscape of shoulder-height shrubs and bushes; home to quick, low-flying birds. The nature trail then forks off to the right, and you turn left, descending into cool, mossy hollows crossed by untamed streams. Water splashes over stepping stones to make progress hazardous after rainy weather. 92 The Serious Hiker’s Guide – Wilson Trail


Cool, damp woodlands embrace the ancient stone path


W130 Movie sets for haunted woodlands W135 Memorial Pavilion overlooking Starling Inlet


The long-abandoned villages of Upper Wang Shan Keuk at W130, could almost serve as movie sets for haunted woodlands. Shells of empty houses, backed by creaking groves of mature bamboo, seem ready to collapse into the soggy, leafy ground at any moment. The trail continues over Wong Shan Keuk South Bridge, and you’ll be pleased to know that there is also a Wong Shan Keuk North Bridge a few hundred metres further along, inscribed in gold lettering. The stone path crosses further sodden grasslands and seasonal watercourses on its gradual descent over rocks to the wellsited Sir Edward Youde Memorial Pavilion. Dedicated to the governor who died before his time in 1986, while in Beijing to negotiate the terms of the future handover, it sits on a spur overlooking Starling Inlet and the coast of China. It was opened by Lady Youde in 1988, and is a good place to pause to take in the view of sea and mountains. Return the few metres to the signpost. At Marker W135, turn left off the stone path, pass the ostentatious gravesites and continue in the direction of Nam Chung. The five villages of Nam Chung in the valley below are each named for the surnames of the original clan inhabitants. The trail winds downhill to join a service road, passing family gravesites which, in this misty hillside environment, are strangely reminiscent of

Pomp and plumage: Sir Edward Youde at his inauguration in 1982

Gregarious Great Egret The Serious Hiker’s Guide – Wilson Trail

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W135 Verdant valley: Lush lowland at trail’s end



Private paradise: egrets return to their exclusive island

98 The Serious Hiker’s Guide – Wilson Trail


the chortens of Tibet. Then, as you cross the bridge to reach marker W137, the Wilson Trail is done. There is no red carpet, no welcoming committee – and unless you have made special arrangements, no celebratory cups of tea served in royal-ciphered Government House tableware from Royal Doulton – just a solitary marker by the side of the road, like the 136 which preceded it, and the sense of satisfaction that you have walked from Stanley to the very edge of Shenzhen, and surveyed the country in between. Huge boulders mark the course of the river below (previous spread). Follow the road down past the villages of Nam Chung, where blackhatted Hakka women sit outside their houses, to the picturesque temple on the shore of Starling Inlet. En route you’ll pass a ramshackle, lean-to stall whose owner offers hot noodles and a welcome shandy. Green minibus 56K pass by to take you to Fanling MTR station. As you travel north to join the Sha Tau Kok Road, look out across the shallow waters of the bay; on their private island of A Chau, you may see hundreds of white egrets settling in for the night.



The MacLehose Trail


MacLehose Trail STAG E

Starting at Pak Tam Au

3

From Sai Kung Terminus, take bus 94 or 96R on Sunday and public holidays in the direction of Wong Shek Pier. Alight a few stops short of the terminus, at Pak Tam Au, the highest point on the Pak Tam Road. It may be best to let the driver know your destination. Alternatively a taxi ride from Sai Kung Town costs roughly $70.

Pak Tam Au 北潭凹 Pak Tam Au 北 潭 凹 > Kei Ling Ha 企 嶺 下 10.2 km / 4 hours

CHEUNG SHEUNG

YUNG SHUE O

55

60

4

KAI KUNG SHAN 399m

a Sai Sh

70

NGAU YEE SHEK SHAN

65

Kei Ling Ha Lo Wai

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WONG CHUK YEUNG

50

3

WA MEI SHAN 391m

KEI LING HA 企嶺下

NGAM TAU SHAN 452m

LUI TA SHEK 379m

Sai Kung West Country Park WONG MO YING

LUNG HANG

PAK TAM AU 北潭凹

PAK TAM Lady MacLehose Holiday Village

TAI MONG TSAI

Rolling uplands

34 The Serious Hiker’s Guide – MacLehose Trail


M045 Another busy day at Pak Tam Au


Sheltered woodlands near Sai Sha Road

Facing the road, the trail begins 50 yards to your left, on the opposite side adjacent to the bus stop. On the near side is a tiny village hidden in the greenery. The hike wastes no time in mounting the hill ahead up an impressive stone staircase. From M049 onwards it’s back to hiking as it should be – over pebbles, earth, fallen leaves and roots – and you’re tempted to take long strides from boulder to boulder. Spare a thought for the country parks team that manoeuvred these boulders into place, some weighing tonnes. Marker M050 makes its appearance on your left. Tree cover soon graduates into grassland (following page). The ascent of Ngau Yee Shek Shan (Cow’s Ear Rock Mountain) gives wonderful views of the rolling country covered on Stage 2. 36 The Serious Hiker’s Guide – MacLehose Trail


A more level section leads to Cheung Sheung, a high, hidden plateau crossed by a bewildering mix of paths. Here a solitary stone bench awaits occupation. Wild cattle try their best to obstruct the way onwards. At M055, cross the bridge overshadowed by a venerable tree, to the Hui Lam Store, a small lean-to café in its own cluster of trees, serving home-made dau fu fa (sweet beancurd dessert) and soya milk, hot or cold. The ancient proprietor opens shop on weekends only. Returning to the trail, you will find that straight ahead lies Jacob’s Ladder, a precipitous descent to Shui Long Wo. We however bear left at M055 and turn left again at the next fork to head south, skirting the flanks of Wa Mei Shan and then, after passing through a cool valley filled with birdsong, approach the next peak of Lui Ta Shek (Thunderstruck Rock). The path keeps to the western side from M058, and hikers are refreshed by cool breezes blowing from Tolo Harbour. An escape route is possible to Pak Tam Road soon after M059, a sprint of 2.7 km or about I mile. Down in the valley, you are sheltered by walls of trees and brush on either side. Ignore the turning for Shek Hang at M062, for yet another ascent is on today’s schedule. The climb up Kai Kung Shan (Rooster Mountain), until you reach M064, is demanding, partly tree covered over a severely eroded clay track caused by monsoon rains rushing unchecked down both sides of the hill, but its 399-metre summit affords a 360-degree panorama over striking ranges of hills in all directions. The island-strewn waters of Port Shelter to the south are balanced by the simple coastlines of Tolo Harbour to the north. Directly below, Three Fathoms Cove is edged by stands of mangroves. To the west looms the dark shape of Ma On Shan, boasting almost twice the elevation of the hill you’ve just climbed – and the next stage passes close by its summit. It’s rather exposed between M062 and M065, and the welcome breezes can become forceful crosswinds in bad weather. After a level ridge walk, the path descends gently through woodland, over trails strewn with aromatic pine needles down a long slope of stone steps shaded by trees to Sai Sha Road. There you will find picnic spots with ample tables and deluxe toilet facilities on both sides of the road. Buses 99 and 299X travel back to Sai Kung town, or you could cross over and catch the 299X going in the other direction to Sha Tin. The Serious Hiker’s Guide – MacLehose Trail

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Chicken run: the stretch towards Rooster Mountain Running cool to the muffled murmur of a creek


M050 Timeless trail: the MacLehose leads on


Ma On Shan is still-yet distant, beyond the mists of Tolo Harbour




The Lantau Trail


Lantau Trail STAG E

8

KEUNG SHAN 459m

Tai Long Wan

9 SHEK PIK

大浪灣

石壁

Kau Ling Chung 狗 嶺 涌 > Shek Pik 石 壁

85 Tai Long Wan Tsuen

5.5 km / 1.5 hours Ca W tc ate hm r en t

Keung Shan Country Trail

Sha Tsui Detention Centre

CHUNG HAU

Tai Long Wan

80

PAK KOK

8 KAU LING CHUNG 狗嶺涌

Starting at Kau Ling Chung This section is usually walked as a continuation of Stage 7. Or you can reach it by following Stage 5 over Ling Wui Shan and turning left at Fan Shui Au to descend south.

This is an easy stroll along a catchwater road for its entire length, shaded by tall trees much of the way. The last part of the hike on stone steps emerges at the catchment between L073 and L074. From here until the end of this section it’s a steady plod along the service road, which closely skirts the catchment for its entire length. Occasional tracks branch off downhill to secluded sandy bays.

62 The Serious Hiker’s Guide – Lantau Trail


Watch out for snakes which enjoy the heat of the paved road. No human settlements are seen until Tai Long Wan village appears on its beach far below. This prospect is a reminder that we are approaching the giant Shek Pik reservoir, with the prison and detention centre at its base. The dam was built in 1963, and after completion the valley below Ngong Ping was flooded to create the reservoir. It was the largest in Hong Kong at the time. Chinese copper coins dating back to the 8th century were discovered during construction, posing something of a puzzle since Lantau was then supposedly inhabited only by aboriginal tribes. There are five-star toilet facilities at the corner of Wang Pui and Keung Shan Roads. The bus lay-by is across the road next to marker L087 on the near side of the dam. A juvenile, red-necked Keelback. The most commonly seen snake on the Lantau hike

Prospering parasitic vines


Lantau Trail STAG E

9

SHEK PIK Shek Pik Reservoir 石壁

9

Shek Pik 石壁 Shek Pik Prison

S

90

Shek Pik 石 壁 > Shui Hau 水 口

th La nt a

uR

Tung Wan

ou

oa d

TUNG WAN

6.5 km / 2 hours

100

10

LAP NGAM TSUI

SHUI HAU 水口

TUNG WAN MEI SHEK MUN SHAN 179m

95

Lo Kei Wan

LUK KENG SHAN 165m

Starting at Shek Pik Buses heading towards Tai O or Ngong Ping all have to cross the long expanse of the Shek Pik dam. Get off at its far end to start your hike. Walking back across the dam, you enjoy an outstanding view of the flanks of Lantau Peak descending to the waters of the reservoir. The Big Buddha watches benignly over you from his platform on the Ngong Ping plateau, and the auspicious L088 makes its appearance exactly halfway across the dam wall. Upon reaching the eastern end of the dam, cross the Shek Pik Reservoir Road to take the smaller lane southwards, following the yellow Lau Tau Trail marker for Shui Hau via Lo Kei Wan. Walk behind the beach towards the Red Cross youth camp. The trail turns left here into the greenery along a handsomely constructed stone footpath which evolves into a sand trail with occasional stone steps, lined with groves of fresh, young bamboo.

64 The Serious Hiker’s Guide – Lantau Trail


L088 Blossoms and the Buddha Fresh water streams after seasonal rains


L089 The reservoir rarely overflows



Shoulder-high shrubs and blossoming trees provide nectar for humming bees but little shade for the hiker. The path ascends steeply on natural and man-made stone steps to peak on the ridgeline overlooking the beach. Shelter is achieved further on, as the path descends into thicker forest closer to sea level. There are exceptionally pleasant hiking conditions between L090 and L095, where the calming effect of tree cover, rocks, sand and fallen leaves is augmented by the sound of the rhythmic tide below.

Steady steps on solid stones

Skirting the quiet strand at Lo Kei Wan (Bamboo Basket Bay, but unofficially known in English as Cowpat Beach), the path strikes uphill by way of a grand stone staircase of manageable and evenly spaced treads, evidently set in place by engineers with hiker’s empathy. An altar honouring the sifu of stonemasons would not be out of place here. The trail joins a service road. Turn left to complete the final stretch. A herd of Lantau cattle, no doubt responsible for the cowpats seen earlier, graze on the turf nearby. Shortly the main South Lantau Road is joined at the village of Shui Hau (Water Mouth). This spot is named for the watercourses which empty here into the muddy bay, home to endangered species such as the horseshoe crab. The village shop is a little way off to the right. Drag the shopkeeper away from her TVB drama to supply you with drinks and nibbles. The village rents holiday rooms to trippers at weekends, but on weekdays it’s so quiet that cattle often settle down in the middle of the road. This section of the trail ends at L100, with its mapboard a little further down the road. Buses can be waved down from the stop near here to take you back to Mui Wo or Tung Chung. 68 The Serious Hiker’s Guide – Lantau Trail


L096 Cowpat Beach: surf, sand and salt air — but mind your footing L096 Weekenders share the shade

The Serious Hiker’s Guide – Lantau Trail

69


Jade-green peaks, crashing waves, feng shui woods, rocky harbours and ancient walled villages – only a few miles separate all this from one of the world’s most crowded cities. Four long-distance trails allow access into this scenic landscape. The Hong Kong Trail: view the cityscape from above as you discover ancient pathways, highland reservoirs and wartime ruins hidden in the lush country parks The Wilson Trail: a journey from edge to edge of Hong Kong, across airy uplands from the southern shore to within sight of the Chinese border The MacLehose Trail: 100 kilometres of the New Territories’ greatest natural wonders, from Hong Kong’s highest peak to Sai Kung’s most magnificent beaches The Lantau Trail: follow this mountainous circuit of beaches and monasteries to lose yourself in the open wilderness of Hong Kong’s largest island Let these four individual books signpost your way into that other Hong Kong, a wild place where your city-dweller’s spirits may be revived. Includes detailed maps covering the four long-distance trails.

ISBN 978-988-98269-2-5


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