INSIDE
Cancel Culture
Once again, Keller ISD is
By Anthony Mariani
Football Guy
Jerry Jones’ desire to be seen as a gridiron mastermind is certainly not helping.
By Patrick Higgins
Red Scare
An overabundance of sauce isn’t the only problem with Bocca Osteria Romana on South Main.
By Cody Neathery
BY LAURIE JAMES
By Fort Worth Weekly Staff 6
Grooving
With new sounds from LABELS, Denver Williams, Broke String Burnett, and more, now’s a good time to local-focus.
Anthony Mariani, Editor
Lee Newquist, Publisher
Bob Niehoff, General Manager
Michael Newquist, Regional Director
Ryan Burger, Art Director
Jennifer Bovee, Marketing Director
Clintastic, Brand Ambassador
Emmy Smith, Proofreader
Julie Strehl, Account Executive
Sarah Niehoff, Account Executive
Stacey Hammons, Senior Account Executive
Tony Diaz, District Manager
Wyatt Newquist, Account Executive
CONTRIBUTORS
Christina Berger, E.R. Bills, Jason Brimmer, Buck D. Elliott, Juan R. Govea, Patrick Higgins, Laurie James, Kristian Lin, Cody Neathery, Wyatt Newquist, Steve Steward, Teri Webster, Ken Wheatcroft-Pardue, Elaine Wilder, Cole Williams
EDITORIAL BOARD
Laurie James, Anthony Mariani, Emmy Smith, Steve Steward
Script Censorship?
Keller families petition the school district to lay off theatrical productions.
BY ANTHONY MARIANI
At pretty much any other 817 school district, students and parents, and their friends and supporters, might show some grace to trustees greenlighting theatrical productions.
But we’re talking about Keller ISD.
This is the same school district whose leaders earlier this year yanked a production about the notorious 1998 Wyoming murder of a young gay student, Matthew Shepard. After public outcry, The Laramie Project went on at Timber Creek High School as scheduled.
Keller ISD is also same school district whose trustees unanimously passed two anti-LGBTQ+ policies last year. One allows teachers and staffers to misgender students. The other — with the exception of special, parental-requested accommodations — forces a student to use only the restroom or locker room that corresponds to their gender assigned at birth. In a letter, the ACLU of Texas said, “Enacting these policies would harm Keller students, invade their medical privacy, and defy best practices recommended by nonpartisan education associations.”
A former student said the policies would “protect bullies and … embolden their hate.”
Now, Keller students, parents, and supporters are adding their signatures to a petition to keep Keller ISD leaders from determining which plays can and can’t be produced by district students and their teachers.
METROPOLIS
With more than half of its 1,000-signature goal already met, the petition arises from the recent removal of several previously approved plays from Keller ISD theater programs. Artemisia, The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Nighttime, Ruthless!, and The Yellow Boat feature nontraditional characters, including an indefatigable woman painter in Renaissance Italy, an autistic person, an all-female cast, and a boy dying from AIDS-related complications.
“As parents of children actively participating in the fine arts programs of Keller ISD,” the petition reads, “we are alarmed by the sudden increase in censorship of the
theater departments across the district. Our kids have been flourishing in their creative pursuits under these programs. However, the recent intervention from the superintendent and the superintendent’s cabinet has drastically affected their development and growth.”
A procedure approved in August permits Keller ISD Superintendent Tracy Johnson or her cabinet to review any play or musical even if already approved by the fine arts administration.
“This extra layer of scrutiny has led to countless denials,” the parents say in the petition, “often with vague or no reasons provided, which is severely affecting our
Theatre can have a profound effect on its audience.
kids’ ability to express themselves and learn.”
Keller ISD, a district spokesperson said, “remains dedicated to fostering a lifelong appreciation for the arts through high-quality, engaging programs, and the district’s process of script approval for our theater programs hasn’t changed. Scripts are reviewed at both the campus and district administrative levels before being approved for student use. These guidelines, which consider age appropriateness and community standards, are longstanding and align with those used for all instructional materials. We are excited to support our talented theater students as they prepare for another year of outstanding performances and look forward to celebrating their achievements with our community.”
School censorship dovetails with a swell of conservative laws limiting the LGBTQ+ community’s presence in the classroom. Along with Keller’s new anti-LGBTQ+ policies, the ACLU is tracking 233 schools and education bills taking aim at queer rights and expression.
K-12 school districts across the country are censoring plays — and banning books more than ever, and Texas leads the way. Bans in the first few weeks of the 2023-24 year outpaced all of 2022-23, based on data from the literary nonprofit Pen America. Twenty-three states accounted for 4,349 book bans, with four Texas districts responsible for the most: Frisco ISD (368 books), Conroe ISD (79 books), Texarkana ISD (58 books), and Keller ISD banning 85 books.
“Theatre can have a profound effect on its audience,” said Keller ISD senior Nathan Beets in a statement. “We can’t do that if we are censored from portraying real-life stories on stage, stories that people may find uncomfortable to talk about but are best conveyed through art.” l
This column reflects the opinions of the editorial board and not the Fort Worth Weekly To submit a column, please email Editor Anthony Mariani at Anthony@FWWeekly. com. He will gently edit it for clarity and concision.
This is Keller families’ message to the school district. Courtesy Change.org
Stalwarts and Legends
What does it take to make a restaurant succeed for more than a decade? The answer is complicated.
BY LAURIE JAMES
Over the last 18 years as a food columnist, I’ve watched restaurants come and go. What makes a concept successful for the long haul? Some days, I shake my head and say, “Hell if I know.” The answer is more nuanced than you would think. Sure, location is important. Luck, a telegenic chef, good marketing, good experience, good staff, good food, and, at least in Fort Worth, good parking definitely play into the equation.
Both nationally and locally, most new restaurants will fail within the first three years of starting up. Perilously, a quarter of new restaurants fail in the first year, and it’s estimated that 60% of new restaurants close before they hit the three-year operating mark. A good run for a restaurant is about eight years. This dictum remains true no matter what economic crisis pops up and no matter which political party is in office. Whether it was world wars, the gas crisis and recession of the 1970s, the global recession of the late ’80s, the shock of September 11, 2001, another recession circa 2008-2009, or a global pandemic, it seems that every decade or so brings some fresh hell that affects the restaurant industry.
The reason most new restaurants don’t survive into their first decade has to do with, no surprise, real estate, according to Jeffrey Yarbrough. A fixture in the Fort Worth-Dallas restaurant scene for longer than I’ve been writing about it, Yarbrough is now the CEO of Big Ink Commercial Real Estate, serving as a business advocate and restaurant broker. He calls himself “a crazy reformed restaurateur” and still has works as a co-owner of Teddy Wong’s (812 W Rosedale St, Fort Worth, 817-349-8965). It’s possible that by the time you’re reading this, Yarbrough will have opened up a hot new concept in a part of town that’s going to be trendy in about three years.
If they’re not careful, new restaurant owners could find themselves on the ugly end of a rent increase. “Depending on how the lease was negotiated, you hear restaurateurs talking about rent doubling or tripling.”
The advocacy group the Texas Restaurant Association (TRA) says that only about a quarter of restaurant operators expected to make more money in 2024, four years after the pandemic forced the industry to pivot in unimaginable ways, so it makes
sense, given how tenuous the industry is, that we should celebrate those restaurants in town which are celebrating their silver (25th) anniversaries or better.
There’s a little debate when it comes to the oldest restaurant in the county. Depending on the story you read, the Original Mexican Eats Cafe was opened in 1926 or 1930 by the Pineda family. The Original is still operational, although a lease dispute caused the restaurant to fold at its original location on Camp Bowie Boulevard. The Pineda family sold the place to their accountant in 1965, and since then, the ownership of the Roosevelt Specials and the claim to the “best enchiladas” has passed through several hands. You can still enjoy the Original at its second location, on the North Side (1400 N Main St, Fort Worth, 817-761-1890).
Riscky’s (multiple locations) is the product of Polish immigrants Joe and Mary Riscky, and because it was opened around 1927, the restaurants (currently owned by the fourth generation of Risckys) may actually own the crown for oldest restaurant in the Fort. The original Northside location was a grocery and market, and over the next 96 years, the place expanded into eight ’cue restaurants plus Riscky’s Steakhouse and Trailboss Burgers.
Carshon’s Deli (3133 Cleburne Rd, Fort Worth, 817-923-1907) opened in 1928, and although the family of Jewish immigrant David Carshon sold the business in 1982, the restaurant continues to operate pretty much as it always has.
been the end of things. His wife Mamasuez Garcia and daughter Hope stepped up in a time when women just didn’t own businesses. Tenacity and a good enchilada recipe kept Joe T.’s afloat.
I hate to say it, but if this story is about local stalwarts, we’re not talking about women. In another 30, 50, 70 years, it will be different. Molly McCook, Amy McNutt, Hao Tran, Donatella Trotti, Bria Downey, and Shannon Osbakken are just some of the names we’ll be reading about in the future for their longevity. From the early days to today, though, men have been the owners and operators in food the same way they have owned and operated pretty much everything else.
Arlington’s restaurant industry lags behind Fort Worth’s –– but that’s not a surprise. Arlington’s oldest spot, The Candlelight Inn (1202 E Division St, 817-275-9613), opened in 1957 and was a favorite of General Motors workers at the nearby plant. The Inn closed in 2011, but new owners Alan and Bonnie Petsche rebuilt and reopened in 2014, keeping faith with the original for the last decade.
Joe T. Garcia’s (2201 N Commerce St, Fort Worth, 817-626-4356) has been family-owned since 1935, and a cadre of fifth-generation Garcias and Lancartes keep the restaurant and sister eatery Esperanza’s (two locations) going. There’s a sweet story about the tenuousness of a family business here. You may not know that Joe Garcia died less than two decades after starting his eponymous restaurant. And that could have
One of the key elements of longevity seems to be whether the beloved restaurant can be passed through family and whether said family members have the skill, talent, and ability to keep the place open against whatever odds the world tosses at them. Charles Kincaid opened Kincaid’s Grocery and Market (five locations) in 1946, and Butcher O.R. Gentry began cooking burgers on a small flat top for Kincaid’s customers in 1964. Gentry bought the restaurant, keeping the Kincaid’s name, and the restaurant is still owned by a third generation of Gentry’s family.
Angelo’s Bar-B-Que (2533 White Settlement Rd, Fort Worth, 817-332-0357) is also still owned by the original family Angelo George opened the joint with his wife June, brother Orville, and son Skeet in 1958. When Angelo died in 1997, Skeet took over and kept the taxidermy. He died in 2017, leaving Angelo’s grandson Jason George to run the restaurant.
Ol’ South Pancake House (1509 S University Dr, Fort Worth, 817-336-0311) was founded in 1962 by the late restaurateur David Benson and his sister Bette. Current owner Rex Benson, David’s son, took over in 2011 and has kept the coffee and German pancakes flowing. He opened a Burleson restaurant in 2021, and earlier this year, he took over the nearby shell of the defunct Romano’s Macaroni Grill next door, and now it’s Rex’s Bar and Grill (1505 S University Dr, Fort Worth).
Tommy’s Hamburger Grill (multiple locations) was started in 1982 by the husbandand-wife team of Tommy and Glenda Smith, and the restaurant remains in the family, with the five current locations managed by the Smiths’ daughter Kelly.
To Eric Griffey, a former Weekly food writer who, among other things, manages the Facebook page “Fort Worth: I Ate This Food and I Liked It,” Joe T.’s, the Original, and Riscky’s are “mother’s milk restaurants” –— places that set your baseline for what a certain cuisine should taste like.
“Carshon’s, Kincaid’s — these are the
Joe Garcia died less than two decades after starting his namesake restaurant. The tenacity of wife Mamasuez Garcia and daughter Hope kept the business going at a time when women simply didn’t run things.
Courtesy Joe T. Garcia’s/Instagram
The new Reata location downtown proves they can survive a tornado, an economic collapse, the pandemic, and allegedly terrible property management.
places I grew up on,” Griffey said. “They may have opened during a time when there wasn’t a lot of competition. People go out of habit, so their children went, and their children’s children will go there.”
Our oldest food memories as legacies aside, places like the Original and Carshon’s are full of food that tastes like what we have come to believe is authentic, whether that’s true or not. We aren’t saying they’re the best at that particular cuisine — as Griffey says, “They’re good enough.”
Joe T.’s has confounded food critics like myself by staying open. The food is average, and the drinks are expensive. Sister restaurant Esperanza’s offers much more creative menus.
“But we don’t go to Joe T.’s for the food,” Griffey said.
We go to see and be seen.
“Until diners demand better, we’re going to be stuck in neutral.”
Yarbrough said he goes to Joe T.’s at least annually for birthday celebrations because it’s become a tradition but also because he’s recognized there and welcomed, and that level of service is possibly enough to keep him going back to any eatery.
His point is well-taken: There are too many choices for us to go back for bad service. “Fort Worth is not that forgiving,” Yarbrough said.
Montgomery Plaza and West 7th changed the face of that part of downtown. Former cook Quincy Wallace has co-owned Fred’s since 2011. As the current owner, Wallace cited the changes in the area skirting what is now Artisan Circle, the number of frat-bro fights, and the nonsense from the property owners about parking as reasons that the seminal restaurant faded into the sunset there. Your Fredburger lives on in two other locations, one in North Fort Worth and one off Camp Bowie West. Mama’s Pizza (multiple locations) opened its first location on East Rosedale Avenue in 1968. Owner Ed Stebbins sold the pizzeria in 1970. The franchise expanded perilously in the late 1970s, and due to some quality control issues and market saturation, many of those locations closed in the 1980s. In 2003, longtime employee Jordan Scott inherited the chain, and Mama’s survives with nine Tarrant County locations, along with shops in Hudson Oaks, Burleson, Granbury, Dallas, and (get ready to clutch those pearls) Houston opening soon.
Perhaps the next best thing to family continuing the tradition is a former employee who knows the traditions to take over.
Look Again
The original Fred’s Texas Cafe in the West 7th corridor was started by Gari and J.D. Chandler in 1978, but you’re probably more familiar with the ownership of the Chandlers’ son Terry, the self-proclaimed Cowboy Chef. Fred’s was there before
In 2020, restaurateurs Lou Lambert, Chris Reale, Robert Chieffalo, and Mark Harris took over the then-85-year-old Paris Coffee Shop (704 W Magnolia Av, Fort Worth, 817-945-1702). Lambert, a TCU alum, had strong feelings about the restaurant’s history in the community. The group minimally modernized the stalwart diner’s menu and updated the furniture and fixtures. The next year, the group also
continued on page 8
Admission to the permanent collection is always free. View the full schedule of exhibitions, events, and programs at kimbellart.org
Since 1987 off White Settlement, Cathy Mancuso has been serving Italian cuisine like her nonna used to make.
revitalized Roy Pope Grocery & Market (2300 Merrick St, Fort Worth, 817-7322863), which opened in 1943, took a small hiatus in 2020, and reopened in 2021. Roy Pope is now owned by local residents Ben and Lauren Klipfel.
The Pulido’s Mexican Restaurant chain (multiple locations) was founded in 1966 by Pedro and Dionicia Pulido. The restaurant was ready to fold in 2023. Enter: The Westland Group, helmed by restaurateurs Gigi Howell and Bourke Harvey. Howell has publicly affirmed her love of the place, and The Westland Group barely skipped a beat. So far, they’ve reopened three of the Pulido’s spots, modernizing the bar and adding a few cosmetic touches.
The 42-year-old Mercado Juarez chain is being salvaged by From Scratch Hospitality. Owner Marcus Paslay (Clay Pigeon, Piattello, Walloon’s) tapped Russell Kirkpatrick to oversee the two locations in Arlington and one on the North Side. Kirkpatrick cited the restaurant’s passionate fan base as reason enough for keeping the lights on.
Fan bases aside, most new restaurant owners don’t seem to have the capital that the Lamberts and Paslays do. Most experts estimate new restaurants won’t be profitable for at least the first 18 months.
Yarbrough also points to the need for new restaurants to offer some flexibility with their cuisine. “Politics and diets can go bad. If you’re in fragile economic times, and then there’s a no-carb fad, can you run a pasta restaurant?”
The combination isn’t worth thinking about, unless you’re ready to pivot.
1987 seems to have been a great year for restaurants, although it was also about the time of a national recession. Cathy Mancuso was a New York transplant when she started Mancuso’s Italian Ristorante (9500 White Settlement Rd, Fort Worth, 817-246-7041) in 1987. The family lore is that Mancuso realized the Italian food she grew up eating and making wasn’t available in the Fort –– so she fixed that, but good. Her son Michael keeps the family business going. Drew’s Place (5701 Curzon Av, Fort Worth, 817-476-1857) started in Como, and Drew keeps chugging along, although not every day –– he’s closed on weekends now. And Mac’s Bar and Grille (6077 W I-20, Arlington, 817-572-0541) continues to excel, especially with their martini, prime rib, and salad studded with real blue cheese. Mac’s is now owned by Rena Frost, who worked for the original owner Mike McMahan. Reata Restaurant (550 Throckmorton St, Fort Worth, 817-3361009) opened in 1996. It survived the 2001 F3 tornado that took out part of downtown and also three location changes, most recently a move back to the original Tower spot from their beloved Sundance Square building, which has been the home to the carne asada and cheese enchiladas, CFS,
and the extensive wine list since 2002.
Fort Worth’s Reata Restaurant is the second of two –– owner Mike Micallef’s father Al, so the story goes, wanted a steakhouse in Alpine, so he built one in a restaurant that was formerly a sub sandwich shop. Micallef says that Al’s lived experience in business was beneficial to the success of Reata in Fort Worth.
“Al grew a business out of bankruptcy,” Micallef said. “The principles are the same whether you’re in manufacturing or in a kitchen.”
It may be easier to run a restaurant when you have the basic concept of the algebra needed to know how much a widget (or a tamale) costs.
Over the last 28 years, Reata successfully weathered all challenges. But this year, Reata’s owners went through a very public dispute with their former landlord in Sundance Square. Leaving Fort Worth was never really an option. The walkability of Fort Worth’s downtown is the secret to the restaurant’s success, he said.
Yarbrough agrees. “Real estate is what puts restaurants out of business.”
Building relationships with landlords, vendors, and suppliers is critical, so restaurateurs don’t have to continually price-shop. And when the hammer drops on a lease, it makes it easier to pick up the pieces.
Lonesome Dove (2406 N Main St, Fort Worth, 817-740-8810) will celebrate 25 years next year. Chef Tim Love’s Love Management, Inc. reps nine venues in the Fort, Dallas, Austin, Denton, and elsewhere, including Knoxville, Tennessee. And Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine is almost
But after weathering an economic collapse about eight years in to his first restaurant and the global pandemic, Jon Bonnell disagrees that the cost of consumable goods is related to any entity’s monopoly over a subset of the goods.
“In our restaurants, we’re buying from people across the board, not just one source,” he said. “The price of labor is the highest it’s ever been.”
Reata’s Mike Micallef agrees. “The difference is that during the recession, the cost of commodities went down,” although the attendance at his restaurant decreased, Micallef said. “If you looked at our bottom line, the cost of labor and the cost of nobody eating out in downtown balanced out. Now the cost of commodities is still high post-COVID.”
Yarbrough said that on average, restaurateurs are working on a 5% margin or less, and it’s not just in food –– the price of tequila has gone up 300% over the last few years. My favorite martini at Mac’s, which cost $7 pre-pandemic, is now $10. Yarborough says that the restaurant didn’t just arbitrarily change pricing just to make more money –– the increase may mean they’re breaking even.
So, what would these four experts advise new restaurateurs?
to the golden anniversary mark, celebrating 23 years this fall. Owner Jon Bonnell now oversees five spots, including three fast-casual places and two white-tablecloth enterprises, Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine (4259 Bryant Irvin Rd, Fort Worth, 817-7385489) and Waters Restaurant (301 Main St, Fort Worth, 817-984-1110). Bonnell opened his Fine Texas Cuisine in October 2001, a month after the September 11 attacks when he was arguably too far in to quit. He credits his culinary school experience in 1988 as part of the reason he’s been successful.
“We had an assignment to create a restaurant with a concept, design a menu, and cost out each item,” he said. “It couldn’t all be steak or chicken. I took the opportunity to do my research and put Bonnell’s together.”
Bonnell said that the hardest part of his business is finding the right people. Of the staff who opened Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine in 2001, 11 are still there.
“The hardest part of this business is labor,” he said. “If you want to keep your staff, be the opposite of Gordon Ramsay. Treat people with respect.”
Yarbrough doubles down on that statement. “Staff who stay for the long haul and know the menus and guests — that’s worth something.”
To combat the gig economy, he says he has to compensate the staff to not leave. “Labor costs, food costs, rent, and credit card fees are crippling the industry.”
TRA also reported that food prices alone remain 25% higher than pre-pandemic levels. More Perfect Union also alleges that a group of meat processors are sharing information to fix prices, driving up the cost of chicken and turkey, which is a whole other issue.
“You need to be able to do the math,” Micallef said. Also, he takes issue with the media’s love of celebrity chefs and our collectively short attention span. Building a business on a telegenic personality is no way to run for the long haul. “Don’t brand on a chef. Create a team.”
Bonnell agrees: If you walk into one of his five restaurants, it’s unlikely you’ll see him.
“I am not in the kitchen cranking out dishes — it’s a young man’s game,” he said. “I am more overseer of a brand than a chef of a building.”
He said the secret is “hiring someone as good or better as you and then let them go to it.”
Because he is his own best brand ambassador, Bonnell jokes that people who say they know him often ask for him in the dining room. “ ‘I know Jon is he here?’ ” he said with a laugh. “No, but Chef Kobi [Perdue] is happy to show you around the garden.”
Also knowing that you make a certain dish taste good isn’t a guarantee of success.
“Get a job in the industry for a few months before you decide you want to go to culinary school,” Bonnell said. “Lots of people can make food taste good, but how do you make a business out of this?”
Griffey’s advice is more succinct. “You better have a CFS on the menu.”
Yarbrough encourages new restaurateurs not to lean on their own understanding. “Build a team with a lot of knowledge and experience to help you through all the phases. Have a very solid budget, your capital in place, find a real estate broker who will help you find a site, and have a real business plan.”
Bonnell’s final words of wisdom: Although Fort Worth is a large city, “it’s a small town, and everyone knows everyone. Be respectful. Be nice. Fort Worth people look after our own.” l
Restaurateur Jon Bonnell (left) may clown around, but he’s super-serious about his five restaurants and catering enterprise.
Courtesy Bonnell’s Fine Texas/Instagram
3rd Annual Sundance Catrina Fest Celebration of Hispanic Heritage
Promotional Feature
Join us on Sunday, October 20th (Noon to 8 pm) for the most colorful celebration in Texas at the 3rd Annual Sundance Square Catrina Fest (including $5,000 in prizes for best Catrina costume).
Enjoy live music & entertainment from Noon to 8 pm, including a special performance by a Selena tribute band (Selena Forever), mariachi music, folklorico dancers, a local market, and food trucks. Families are welcome and there is no admission cost.
Immerse yourself in the rich cultures, colorful costumes, and festive atmosphere as we honor meaningful Mexican traditions that welcomes people from all backgrounds. Additionally, this year’s Catrina celebration will also include 10’ giant Catrina Statues made by artisans from the Feria del Alfenique in Toluca, Mexico (an international Sister City of Fort Worth).
Sundance Square Catrina Fest 2024 is presented by Sundance Square with community support by Visit Fort Worth.
Photo:
Henrik
Lower left: Colony Sound, 2019–20. Installation view, Marlborough, London, 2019. Mixed media. Dimensions variable.
Lower right: RANDOM FOREST (THE WHISPER IN THE KITCHEN) 2019–24. Installation view: Colony Sound, 2019–20, ARoS Aarhus Kunstmuseum, 2020. Mixed media. Dimensions variable. Photo: Jens Henrik Daugaard.
images courtesy
STUFF
Mad Man Rules
The ego that drives Jerry Jones’ desperate lust for validation as a “football guy” is the very thing keeping him from earning it.
BY PATRICK HIGGINS
The world is held hostage by old rich guys. Whether in government, at the pulpit, or at the head of giant corporations, human progress seems to be paralyzed by the hubris of powerful and aging men infatuated with their self-inflated genius continuing to bend the world to arcane worldviews — visions of the way things should be done that were dubious decades ago but are certainly inapplicable to the present day, progress stalled by insatiable egos, inexhaustible means, and rapid cognitive decline.
There are areas under these wealthy octogenarians’ control with much higher stakes, of course — one need look no further than the houses of Congress for this sobering reality — but the obstinance of the degenerating well-monied extends into the running of professional sports franchises as well. When it comes to misguided egoists in pro sports, the Dallas Cowboys
organization is caught firmly under the thumb of the most intransigent fat cat of them all.
Jerral Wayne Jones turned 82 years old on Sunday. To celebrate, after yukking it up with fellow white-haired good ol’ boys Terry Bradshaw and Jimmy Johnson on the Fox pregame show (never avoiding a camera), the king took his throne in his suite high atop the cellular citadel of AT&T Stadium to survey his empire as his team hosted the Detroit Lions. In fitting tribute to their mighty monarch’s name day, the Cowboys presented their liege with the franchise’s worst home loss since Jones bought the team in 1989, a 47-9 curb-stomping, the worst of now four consecutive blowout losses at home for the ’Boys.
Detroit head coach and sentient protein shake Dan Campbell, obviously bent on revenge for the controversial final series that gave the Lions the L in the previous matchup between these two clubs last December, absolutely punked Jerry’s boys on the national stage, trolling Dallas with multiple trick plays, relentless physicality, and a seemingly madman determination
15 yards per play and hasn’t shown any indication of a desire to do so. It’s as ugly as it’s ever been, and responsibility for the entire quagmire lays solely at Jerry’s $17,000 ostrich skins.
Jones possesses an Ahab-like obsession, and his white whale is the dream of being seen as a “football guy.” He wants desperately to be seen as a great team-building mind, an architect of football greatness. Yet his stubbornness, intractability, and Trump-ian inability to admit failure continues to be the thing that dooms the Cowboys’ Pequod to being perennially pulled under the waves.
to have an o-lineman score. In what has become a rinse/repeat game script, Dallas was bullied all over the field on both sides of the ball. An anemic and error-prone offensive output was only outdone by an even more futile defensive effort. Undisciplined. Impotent. Gutless. Soft. The Cowboys are the laughingstock of the NFL.
Jones has only himself to thank for the bloody B-Day Massacre. One or two such disasters could be considered outliers, but at this point, it’s no longer even a pattern. It is now the norm. It’s indicative of the general state of the team. There is no aspect of the current product on the field that isn’t a complete shambles. Head Coach Mike McCarthy’s offense is an ineffective Stone Age relic. The offensive line possesses the fortitude of wet single-ply toilet paper, making former MVP runner-up Dak Prescott see ghosts in the backfield and regress to a 2017-era performance, and the practice squad-level running back corps gets tackled behind the line of scrimmage as often as they manage to carry the ball beyond it. This gummy bear-soft defense couldn’t stop a wingless gnat from gaining
The irony is that to find the adulation he craves, he need simply turn talent acquisition over to a dedicated general manager, one who might be more motivated by his own job security than the latest sponsorship deal or red state-appeasing Thanksgiving halftime show performer, one who would be held to account for their misses as well as lauded for their hits, a structure that, at present, is woefully absent in this organization. This week has seen an increasingly media-combative Jones not only shrug off fair criticisms for his mishandling of this year’s roster but defiantly demand credit for “the rights” he feels he’s achieved in the same breath.
It’s this that is the main problem. The Cowboys are always so close to being really good without actually being very good that Jones and his nepotistic band of cohorts have just enough reassurance to make them believe they’re doing everything right. They’re never bad enough for them to question their approach. That is, until now.
This current iteration looks like it could be the worst Cowboys team in a decade. I have little faith, however, that the front office will see it the same. The defense is decimated by injury, which will give Jerry et al. a misguided pass for their poor play. The O-line is young (and, in Zack Martin’s case, old). Surely, they will improve as the season goes. Then the running game will open up. Dak will resume Superman status, and all will be well. Hell, they’re only one game out of first place in their division …
So, Ahab will keep chasing Moby Dick, and we’ll all continue to go down with the ship. l
Cowboy fans are at the mercy of one man’s ego, and there is no cure for his madness.
Courtesy DallasCowboys.com
SHOPPING LOCAL
Rock ‘n’ Roll Rummage Sale Marks 8th Year as Fort Worth’s Premier Vintage and Art Market
Promotional Feature
Fort Worth’s beloved Rock ‘n’ Roll Rummage Sale is celebrating another market in its 8th year as the city’s top open-air monthly vintage and art market. What began as a small gathering at Lola’s Trailer Park has transformed into a vibrant showcase at South Main Micro Park (105 South Main Street) and the adjacent parking lot. Produced by Honeysuckle Rose Events, this popular event unites local musicians, vintage curators, antique dealers, artists, makers, and small businesses in a lively celebration of Fort Worth’s rich cultural and artistic landscape.
On Saturday, October 19th, from 12 PM to 5 PM, attendees can enjoy an exciting lineup of live performances featuring local talents: The Kubes at 12 PM, Tiny Giants at 1:45 PM, and The Infamists at 3:30 PM, all performing on the Volt Cowtown Micro Park Stage.
In addition to the live music, the Rock ‘n’ Roll Rummage Sale will feature over 70 vendors offering an eclectic mix of vintage treasures and artisanal crafts. Food enthusiasts can delight in a diverse array of delicious options from local favorites such as Tinie’s Mexican Cuisine, Café x Jose, Leo’s Churro Bar, Delicias De Guerrero, Sweet D’s Lemonade, and Sabar BBQ.
The event promises even more fun with engaging activities including live screen printing by Printed Threads, on-site demo recording by Blackstone Recording Studio, caricature drawing, permanent jewelry, face painting, and build-your-own terrariums.
Additionally, there will be a fun-filled kids’ play area complete with a sandbox to keep the little ones entertained!
Community members are encouraged to join for a day of great music, unique finds, and family-friendly fun at the Rock ‘n’ Roll Rummage Sale.
Getting around the neighborhood is easy with free parking and a complimentary shuttle, and carpooling is encouraged for convenience. For those traveling by train, the event is conveniently located just one block southeast of the TRE & T&P Station.
Rock ‘n’ Roll Rummage Sale and South Main Micro Park are proud to serve as an official venue for the Lost ‘N Sound South Main Music Series season finale on Saturday, featuring over 50 free concerts
across more than 20 participating venues on South Main Street.
A heartfelt thank you goes to the sponsors: Blackstone Recording Studio (Live Music Sponsor), Felicia Barber of Redfin
Event Details:
Date: Saturday, October 19th
Time: 12:00 PM - 5:00 PM
Location: South Main Micro Park, 105 S. Main St., Fort Worth, TX 76104
Admission: Free
All Ages Welcome Pet-Friendly
Realty (Presenting Sponsor), Volt Cowtown (Stage Sponsor), and Community Partners: Printed Threads, Lightbridge Academy, South Main District Salon, Topo Chico, and Arrt Dept.
For more information, visit: linktree. com/honeysuckleroseevents and follow the Rock ‘n’ Roll Rummage Sale on Instagram and Facebook for updates!
FROM John TEXAS
Take our immersive experience and add a splash of enchantment to the cauldron. Enjoy events, workshops, and other special surprises in the spirit of October’s spooky season.
Winning Halloween Flicks
We’ve been showcasing winners from Best Of 2024 in our annual Winners Circle section this month. With Halloween around the corner, here are some spooky viewing choices for your consideration. Winning!
Hocus Pocus at TX Whiskey
Kick off your Halloween weekend with a movie night at TX Whiskey Ranch (2601 Whiskey Ranch Rd, Fort Worth, 817-8409140), home of the 2024 critic’s choice for best distillery. On Fri, Oct 25, from 6pm to 9pm, Hocus Pocus, the 1993 comedy starring Bette Midler, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Kathy Najimy as a coven of evil (and silly) witches, will screen rain or shine. Bring your own blankets and chairs in case it’s outside. There will be a food truck onsite and a palm/tarot card reader available for complimentary sessions. Tickets are $10 at TXWhiskey.com and include your first cocktail. 21+ only. Doors open at 6pm, and the movie starts at 7pm sharp.
Smile 2 Fan Event at AMC Clearfork
Our readers’ pick for best place to watch a movie in Best Of 2024 is hosting a special fan event. At 5pm Thu, be one of the first to see Smile 2 at an advance screening at AMC Dine-In Clearfork (5015 Trailhead Bend Way, Fort Worth, 817-769-6762). Tickets are $16.99 at AMCTheatres.com. If you liked the first Smile film that came out in 2022 — or you’re just a hardcore horror fan who sees everything — I’m sure you’ll love this one, too. Our film critic did not. He thought that Parker Finn’s fright had the “germ of an interesting idea” that got fouled up in the execution, including three different
contradictory endings. Let us know if the franchise did better this time.
My Favorite Films at the Modern
Not only is the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth (3200 Darnell St, 817-738-9215) an annual winner of various Best Of awards, but they also have some winning movie choices for October. As part of their My Favorite Films series, several Halloween favorites are screening at 2pm Wednesdays in the auditorium. Clue (1985) is on Wed, Oct 23, and Parasite (2019) on Wed, Oct 30. There’s also Dracula (1931) at 7:30pm Thu, Oct 31. Tickets are $5 or free for Modern members at the front desk or via TheModern.org.
Your Haunted Holiday on YouTube
If you enjoy traveling and checking out para normal experiences, Your Haunted Holiday (@YourHauntedHoliday5985) is worth a lis ten. Hosted by twin sisters Lisa and Lindsay Estes, this podcast specializes in travel re views with a paranormal spin. New episodes come out every Sunday wherever you stream podcasts and on YourHauntedHoliday. com. Miss Molly’s Hotel (109 W Exchange Blvd, Fort Worth, 817-626-1522), this year’s critic’s choice for best haunted attraction, is featured in Episode 33.
By Jennifer Bovee
5 HAUNTED HOUSES
1985’s Clue screens at the Modern as part of their My Favorite Films series on Wed, Oct 23.
The campy Hocus Pocus will screen under the stars (weather permitting) at TX Whiskey on Fri, Oct 25.
EATS & drinks
Big Night
While super-atmospheric and charming, Bocca Osteria Romana on South Main still has a little work to do.
Bocca Osteria Romana, 411 S Main St, Fort Worth. 817-386-4812. 11am-5pm Sun, 4-9pm Mon-Thu, 4-10pm Fri-Sat.
STORY AND PHOTOS BY CODY NEATHERY
Locating Bocca Osteria Romana plays out like a European experience of Old-World charm. Walk down an alley under crisscrossing garden bulbs connecting historic buildings on South Main and enter an open-air courtyard, where during sunset
recently guests were merrily drinking wine and dining.
At the host stand of what was formerly a West Texas-exported winery, a dry erase board announces that Bocca is bringing “authentic Italian flavors to Fort Worth,” which seems innocent enough if your expectations include Rome, Tuscany, Sicily, or Naples. Research, though, points to the original Bocca Osteria … in San Juan, Puerto Rico. I had questions. Starting with the décor. On the walls, the bucolic landscapes and scenes seemed more fitting for a nursing
home than a nice restaurant, and a random Campari poster had found its way to the dining room, not the bar, where you would expect it. There’s also a mural of what could be perceived as a soccer player next to an Italian flag. Not everyone has an eye for design just as not everyone can cook, and that’s OK. The food and drinks are what matter most, so let’s get to those.
Bocca’s impressive cocktail menu leans heavily into classic Italian beverages: six types of spritzes and five different negronis, everything rounded out by a collection of
Bocca’s own cocktails. My guest and I started with the simple three-ingredient negroni (equal parts Campari, gin, and dry vermouth, garnished with orange). Arguably one of the best cocktails on the planet, Bocca’s delivered a whirlwind of floral, bitter, and sweet notes to swish around in your mouth. We also tried the bianco, the negroni’s more approachable French sister in which the Campari and vermouth are swapped for Lillet Blanc and Suze. Magnifico.
On the antipasti portion of the menu, I wanted to skip the popular items (meatballs, bruschetta) for something new, something adventurous. Our server talked us into the focaccia rossa, due to its 48-hour fermentation process and because it’s made fresh daily. Pillowy bread with a layer of tomato sauce came with a plate of oil and balsamic continued on page 21
The sumptuous Focaccia Rossa alone is worth a visit to Bocca Osteria Romana.
The bucatini noodles were cooked perfectly al dente but overwhelmed by the smoky pork.
for dipping, and it was phenomenal. Like a double-edged sword, the focaccia was both the apex of our dinner and the beginning of a downward spiral.
Staying with the antipasti, we also ordered the supplì al telefono, la stracciatella, and prosciutto e melone. Without the ability to properly pronounce any of these dishes, we relied on finger pointing. The supplì al telefono, fried balls filled with tomato risotto, mozzarella, and pecorino, were delectable enough, but the red sauce under the croquettes overwhelmed everything — including, as we would soon discover, our entire meal. Warning: The good folks at Bocca really like their red sauce and put it on just about everything. By the end of our dinner, we were just bored with it.
Anyway, la stracciatella — the mound of fior di latte curds and cream topped with arugula (another overused ingredient) made for a fresh contrast to the croquettes. Served with heirloom tomatoes and peaches, the dish included an herbaceous pesto that livened up every bite and defeated any suggestion of monotony.
Buried under another garden of arugula, slices of cantaloupe and honeydew covered in thin slices of prosciutto accompanied berries and plenty of balsamic drizzle to go around. Wanting to like the prosciutto e melone became daunting because it was just too much — too much fruit, too much arugula,
too much meat, too much balsamic. Maybe less would be more in this case.
The primi phase of the menu read like a list of classic noodle and pasta dishes.
Nothing jumped out as particularly chefy or edgy, but that’s not what Bocca is trying to accomplish. They just want to show an appreciation for the downhome flavors of Italy, no gimmicks necessary.
I ordered one of my favorites, the gnocchi, and my guest, a classically trained chef from Seattle, ordered one of theirs, the bucatini with bacon. Probably the most Fort Worth thing on the menu, it just fell flat. The chunks of smoky pork overtook every bite, and the abundance of that red sauce
did not help. Perhaps a less potent meat such as diced or shaved pancetta with freshly chopped basil minus a couple scoops of sauce would have worked better. Thankfully, the thick pasta was cooked perfectly al dente.
The gnocchi were not. Though fluffy, they were dense and chewy. The daily ragu was more reminiscent of a minced beef stew that left a puddle of liquid under the little potato-based pasta dumplings.
My guest and I were glad we passed on the rigatoni, because when we saw it served to other diners, it was smothered in red sauce.
Atmosphere? Bocca is fantastic for a date or a celebration. Cocktails? Same.
Décor? Meh. Food? Could be better, though Bocca probably doesn’t care what we think based on a couple of visits and word of mouth, the dining room has no problem staying packed. l
The gnocchi were plentiful but slightly chewy.
Bocca Osteria Romana’s take on the classic negroni hit all the right notes.
Prosciutto with melon is an Italian classic that ended up baffling on the plate.
HearSay
New moves from LABELS, Denver Williams, Broke String Burnett, and more.
BY FORT WORTH WEEKLY STAFF
New LABELS Track, Singer
Mid-Cities psychedelic-punks LABELS are releasing a new single on Saturday to coincide with their show at 10:30pm at the Boiled Owl Tavern (909 W Magnolia Av, Fort Worth, 817-920-9616) on the Near Southside as part of Arts Goggle. “Toxic Love” features the studio debut of a new lead singer. Tyler Waller met his LABELS-mates, twin brothers Braden (guitar and vocals) and Taylor (drums) Burgan, at their mutual retail job. At the time, Waller had recently shelved a rap project “that didn’t work out,” he said, and LABELS was looking for a new singer. Waller’s influences — a lot of hardcore singers and the abrasive, electro-industrial freakouts of Nascar Aloe — sat well with what the band wanted to do sonically, which was push their garage-rock sound further into the realm of punk.
“Everyone deals with toxic love in some form,” Braden said in a call shared with Taylor and Waller. “Whether it’s your partner or a family member or a friend … it’s a relatable topic.”
The band wrote, recorded, mixed, and mastered the track in about two weeks in the Burgans’ home studio. Along with new vocalist Waller, “Toxic Love” includes contributions from former bassist Ryan Schoeder, who split a couple of weeks ago over that old enemy of solid lineups, creative differences. While that is indeed a bummer — though LABELS will continue to play as a guitar-drums-vocals trio until the lower end is filled — the band is stoked to move forward.
Describing the new track as “a fast punk song that’s garage-y but kind of danceable,” Braden said it’s an indication of where LABELS’ sound is headed. They plan to release another single before the end of the year and, next year, a new album.
“It’s gonna be punker than punk,” he said. — Steve Steward
Multi-Video Premiere Party
Denver Williams and Henry the Archer will premiere three videos 7-9pm Thu at Southside Preservation Hall (1519 Lipscomb St, Fort Worth, 817-926-2800). All shot (mostly at the hall) and directed by the local production company Make Something Beautiful, the videos for Denver Williams’ “Let It Ride” and Henry the Archer’s “The Garden” and “ViolinT” feature “tangled
relationships” and “mysterious monks,” the filmmakers say. Both artists will also perform. Openers include local singer-songwriters Jana Renée and Sarah Savage. There will be a costume contest with prizes. A $5-10 donation at the door is suggested, and there will be a cash bar. — Anthony Mariani
Two Guys Walk into a Bar, Visit Terlingua
Pete Garguilo’s mellow vocals and acoustic strumming along with Mike Terry’s bluesy electric git-fiddle have been brightening local stages for more than a decade. Performing covers and a few originals as Two Guys Walk into a Bar, the 40-year-olds have stayed busy. After a long conversation last year, the duo decided to make an album of solely original
material. Recorded at Blackstone Recording Studio (Cut Throat Finches, The Nancys, Jakob Robertson) with co-producers Mark Randall and Nick Tittle, the seven-track Terlingua will hit streaming platforms on Nov 1. Drummer Steve Pierce and bassist Michael Pritchard rounded out the record in the studio.
“Our goal was to progress and make a body of original work to take to the grave,” Garguilo said. “We’ve hooked up with different booking agents and had a lot of gigs, and I said, ‘Hey, where are we going with this? Why don’t we get focused on original music and see where it goes?’ ” — Juan R. Govea
Broke String’s Bloodveins Release Party
Broke String Burnett will celebrate the release of his second album with a show at Tulips FTW (112 St. Louis Av, Fort Worth, 817-367-9798) on Sat, Oct 26. The Southern Gothic folk-rock outfit has put out three singles this year in anticipation of Bloodveins. Recorded and mastered by Clint Niosi at his Orange Otter Audio (Darstar, Cody Lynn Boyd, Crooked Bones), the 12 tracks are dark and eerie but easygoing, with bassist Jacob Martinez, lead guitarist Henry Sepulveda III, and drummer John Paul Thomas providing the sonic bed from which frontman Burnett deals with ghosts both real and imagined.
The release of Bloodveins on Fri, Oct 25, will be accompanied by a video for the song “Trainwreck.” There will also be a digital storybook that follows imaginary characters inspired by the album via BrokeStringBurnett.com.
Broke String Burnett has also been awarded a travel grant from Hear Fort Worth that will support the band’s eight-day Midwest tour in November. At Tulips, Sam Morrow and J. Isaiah Evans & The Boss Tweed will open the show. Tickets are $2035. — Juan R. Govea
LABELS is pushing their garage-rock sound further into punk.
Two Guys Walk into a Bar’s Pete Garguilo (left): “ ‘Why don’t we get focused on original music and see where it goes?’ ”
LIVE & LOCAL
From the Barrio to Network Television
UTA is kicking off its 2024-2025 Maverick Speakers Series with journalist and TV host John Quiñones next Wednesday.
Promotional Feature
A lifetime of “never taking no for an answer” took celebrated journalist John Quiñones from migrant farm work and poverty to more than 30 years at ABC News and the anchor desk at 20/20 and Primetime. Along the way, he has broken through barriers, won accolades, and become a role model for many.
Quiñones’ powerful story has resonated with audiences around the globe. Raised in a family of Mexican immigrants in San Antonio, Texas, he defied the odds, earning degrees from St. Mary’s University and Columbia University. Throughout his career, Quiñones has reported on critical social issues and covered some of the world’s biggest cultural moments. Along the way, he has earned many awards, including seven national Emmys and a Peabody.
Quiñones is the creator and host of the long-running hidden camera show What Would You Do?, which places ordinary people in ethical dilemmas to reveal human
nature and promote social responsibility. Approaching its 17th season, the show has made him a household name known for championing integrity and empathy.
Beyond television, Quiñones has authored three books — including the recent One Year in Uvalde: A Story of Hope and Resilience, co-authored with journalist Maria Elena Salinas—and become a sought-after speaker, inspiring audiences to believe in themselves, pursue education, and always do the right thing. His life story and compelling message continue to uplift people everywhere.
Hear Quiñones speak at the first event of the UTA Maverick Speakers Series at
Texas Hall on the University of Texas at Arlington campus (701 W Nedderman Dr, 817-272-5584) at 7:30pm on Wed, Oct 23. Reserve your seat today by purchasing $5 tickets at UTATickets.com.
UTA’s Maverick Speakers Series provides a forum for today’s brightest minds to examine the ideas, actions, solutions, and people that impact the world around us. In previous years, the Maverick Speakers Series has featured such renowned voices as LeVar Burton, Jack Hanna, Terry Crews, Anna Deavere Smith, Seth Meyers, Emmitt Smith, Soledad O’Brien, Bill Nye, Jane Goodall, and many more.
Quiñones has authored three books — including the recent One Year in Uvalde: A Story of Hope and Resilience, co-authored with journalist Maria Elena Salinas.
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