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CULTURAL BREAKS The art of travel

A city of enormous cultural richness, Paris has a formidable artistic heritage, and nowhere is that more alive than at Le Meurice, the original palace hotel in the city’s historic centre. Many of the greatest artists and thinkers of our age have found inspiration within the hotel’s walls, and now it’s our turn. The Dorchester Collection has unveiled a series of bespoke, private art trails, allowing guests to follow in the footsteps of legendary artists such as Picasso, Rodin and Monet.

Franka Holtmann, general manager of Le Meurice, tells us: “These trails will take our love of art out onto the historic cobbled streets of Paris, to see the city through the eyes of some of the world’s greatest artists. Inspired by Picasso celebrating his wedding feast at Le Meurice in 1918, we’re starting our series by celebrating his fascinating life.”

The tour will see a local guide take guests in small private groups to uncover why Picasso’s masterpiece Les Demoiselles d’Avignon remained rolled up and neglected in his studio for years, discover how he paid for his drinks at the Lapin Agile, and find out why he was implicated in a theft at the Louvre...

Alongside the Picasso trail, a Rodin inspired tour will be launched this month, with one focusing on Monet planned for next March.

Rates from €1,330 for two sharing a Superior Room or Suite, including American breakfast and a two-hour expert guided tour (dorchestercollection. com/en/paris/le-meurice)

NEW OPENING Country pursuits

Fancy being Lord or Lady of your own estate? You can try the role on for size at Keythorpe Hall, a new private retreat on the border of Rutland and Leicestershire, near Uppingham.

Picture the scene: it’s the start of the weekend. You’re standing in the portico of a Grade II Listed Georgian country house, set in 20 acres of gardens. Behind you, in the kitchen, your team are busy preparing a Michelin star worthy supper.

The chef, with the house and garden team will have already discussed with you what produce is at its very best from the estate’s walled garden and local farms. They’ll have given you hints on the surprises that lie in wait for you and your guests, from breakfasts to informal lunches and showstopper dinners…

The field-to-fork kitchen philosophy at Keythorpe has been overseen by Nurdin Topham, who spent a decade at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, before going on to earn a Michelin star for NUR in Hong Kong. Bringing Topham’s vision to life in the kitchen is Peter Johansen, who has perfected his skills working for a string of highly acclaimed restaurants including The Harwood Arms in London. Completing the experience, wine expert Bert Blaize will be available to create a personalised wine and drinks experience to match the menu and the occasion.

Owners Giles and Barbara say: “Guests just need to arrive for memories to begin – from leisurely breakfasts, long walks, a game of tennis, cocktails from the sideboard, superb food, nightcaps… to waking up to birdsong.” It sounds like bliss.

Keythorpe Hall sleeps up to 20 with pricing starting from £14,000 per night (minimum 2-night stay) including all meals, drinks and service and the full use of the house and grounds (keythorpehall.co.uk)

WINTER SUN Maltese magic

Some of the newly renovated suites at The Xara Palace feature private terraces with hot tubs, set on Mdina’s historic ramparts Winter sun needn’t necessitate hours on a plane – just a three-and-a-half-hour flight from London, Malta boasts 300 days of sunshine a year, making it perfect for a weekend dose of vitamin D. For the ultimate treat, book yourself into The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, located in a 17th-century palace on the ramparts of the Unesco-protected ‘Silent City’ of Mdina. Renowned for luxury, the exclusive hotel – the only hotel in Mdina – is home to Michelin Star restaurant, de Mondion, and recently reopened following a two-year refurbishment that saw the rooms and suites reconfigured, with work carried out to reduce the hotel’s environmental impact. The project also saw the creation of an exquisite new Presidential Suite, which elegantly blends modern comforts like Swedish Hästens beds with historical features such as the original wooden beams. The new accommodation is spread over two floors and decorated with a fascinating selection of handpicked antique furnishings and pieces of art. Full of charm and character, whether you’re after a romantic escape, a cultural stay or simply an exclusive getaway, you’ll find it all here. Accommodation that is truly fit for royalty.

Rates for the Presidential Suite start from €600 per night. Room rates from €236 per night. For more information, visit xarapalace.com.mt

review A GREEK ODYSSEY

Spectacular views, luxurious lodgings and culinary excellence make for the perfect post-pandemic travel experience

WORDS by ALI HOWARD

The hotel, which opened earlier this year, boasts an enviable position, hugging the cliff face above Karavostasi beach and the crystal clear waters of the Ionian Sea Post-pandemic overseas travel had reached near-

mythical status in my mind, so you can only imagine the thrill on finally hearing the words, “cabin crew,

please prepare for take-off”. We’re leaving London behind at the crack of dawn, headed for a luxurious break at MarBella Elix, the third property to be added to the MarBella Collection portfolio, and the first for the brand outside of Corfu. Mainland Greece, to my shame, had thus far eluded my own portfolio of Places I’ve Been so I’m glad to be making up for it with a stay in this previously undiscovered area – about an hour’s drive from Preveza airport – and one, I’m told, of astounding natural beauty.

Indeed, the hotel is seemingly carved into the verdant mountainside above the golden stretch of Karavostasi beach. The handiwork of Dimitris Thomopoulos and Konstantinos Kydoniatis, the property is designed to respectfully take second place to Mother Nature’s own architectural sass, and in doing so, guests are treated to breath-taking, uninterrupted views of the Ionian Sea. Cleverly, every one of the hotel’s 146 guest rooms and suites, all forward-facing, comes with a dreamy seascape, with Corfu to the right, Paxos straight ahead, and the sparkling turquoise water in between. We are at one with the elements here.

But this is a property of pleasing contrasts and as much as I’m floored by the natural surroundings, I’m also impressed with the hotel’s dramatic, glamorous interior. The first of many pinchmyself moments comes in the capacious, modern, gallery-like lobby, welcome Bellini in hand, as I take in the cool, contemporary environment. The clean lines are as crisp as the sea, but stark minimalism here is offset with thoughtfully placed objets and artworks celebrating the area’s rich cultural heritage and its history during the Ottoman occupation. Two jewel-hued framed kaftans provide a vibrant colour pop against the otherwise neutral décor, while a huge, ornate and exotic hammered brass chandelier hangs overhead. It is a deft mix of old and new.

In a hotel in which every guest room is a room with a view, expectations are high, but even then I can’t help but gasp at the stunning blue-meets-blue horizon in front of me. With its calming, sandy décor – think blonde rattan, ecru linen and rustic wood – the suite is designed to blend seamlessly with the surrounding natural palette, making it impossible not to relax in. There’s an enormous, inviting bed complete with snowy white sheets to dive into, too, but that can wait, the turquoise sea is calling me.

Unlike some luxury resorts in which you can find yourself on the beach in seconds, here, up on the mountain, you have to put in a little bit of work: choose the seriously thigh-toning stone steps if you didn’t manage to hit the gym pre-breakfast, or plump for the far more civilised funicular, sit back, and take in the spectacular views as you slowly descend. A restorative swim in the choppy, warm sea proves nothing short of spiritual, while back

on the beach, I’m served a chilled Aperol spritz, straight to my lounger, feeling thoroughly spoilt on the hotel’s Ultra All-Inclusive package. Indeed, all the facilities you could want for are here on the beach, upon which you could easily lose a day. Vehicles for the serious (jet ski) and not-so-serious (plastic pedalo with slide) water sportspeople are available to hire, while the Azure beach restaurant guarantees a laid-back, lengthy lunch between dips.

A bona fide destination for foodies, the hotel boasts four restaurants and three bars with a comprehensive offering from the casual to the haute cuisine. Back on the main site, there’s light bites to be had poolside at the Indigo restaurant, while modern Mediterranean fare is up for grabs at Saffron. If you’re a fan of the hotel buffet, you’ll be like a child in a sweet shop here – albeit one wearing Covid-safe plastic gloves as you fill your plate with a glut of culinary delights. I’m relieved to learn the hotel buffet breakfast is still very much A Thing in a world with Covid, and on my first morning, cannot resist a boastful snap of my smoked salmon and scrambled egg, complete with wow-worthy vista, to send home. As part of the hotel’s exclusive Dine Out programme, we’re treated to a slap-up meal at a local taverna and have our fill of delicious traditional Greek foodstuffs. But the real treat comes at the hotel’s elegant Pearl restaurant. We’ve timed our trip to coincide with the brand’s inaugural culinary series, Greek Chefs Abroad, and we have celebrated global chef Yiannis Kioroglou, together with Alexandros Ioannou of Katogi Averoff Winery, at our disposal for an exclusive pop-up tasting dinner. Relishing our way through ten exquisitely crafted courses with wine pairings, including Fleurs de Côte d’Azur (zucchini blossoms in tomato sauce), Langoustine in the Forest (with raspberry and rosemary sauce), and Black Iberico (with black trumpets and Porto sauce), we are wined and dined to the nines.

Just as MarBella Elix marries its rugged landscape with sleek architecture, so it offers the perfect mix of relaxation and adventure. Sunny mornings lolling on giant beanbags by the pool are met with afternoon hikes to explore the surrounding countryside. We discover a quaint, rustic chapel complete with gilded iconography and ornamental stone tiling. Our guide has us going around the church’s bejewelled wishing tree three times, such is the tradition, before we venture further into a forest of intertwined olive trees and over babbling brooks, all with glorious sunshine peeking through. It is picture postcard pretty.

A rare day of inclement weather sees us swapping out a planned catamaran cruise to neighbouring Paxos and Antipaxos for a cooking class centred around feta and traditional Greek dishes with MarBella head chef Vasilis Moschotas. Rainy days here are made for cheese and wine – and baklava making, of which we devour every sweet, nutty layer.

We are able to visit the islands on the following day, albeit downsized to a (still luxurious) speedboat. We soon discover that what the vessel lacks in deck size it more than makes up for in fun. Before we know it, we’re clinging on for dear life as we hurtle across the Ionian Sea, club tunes from the captain on full blast. It feels impossibly glamorous – and just the right level of dangerous. We take in the sights of the picturesque ports, explore the intricate caves – in which no cumbersome catamaran would fit – and find ourselves jumping into those sparkling turquoise waters before flopping onto the softest sandy beach imaginable. We make the most of our final lunch with a feast of traditional Greek fare at Paxos’ Genesis restaurant, before racing back to pack for the airport. As a final hurrah, we convince the captain to indulge us with a blast of Mamma Mia!. It is beyond cheesy, but after an 18-month travel drought, it proves a fitting soundtrack to our longed-for Greek escapades. Brits abroad, eh?

It doesn’t look like that wishing tree is working. I’d asked for it to formulate a cunning plan for me to stay on in Greece. But in the here and now, I resolve to drink in and bank the sights and sounds, the salty waves, the beating sun and the belting cries of Agnetha and Anni-Frid. I haven’t felt so alive in years – and I’m sure I can live off this feeling for a while, even after the tan fades… My my, Greece, I could never let you go.

Rooms at MarBella Elix start from £121 per night per room on a half board basis (marbella.gr/marbella-elix)

Olympic Holidays offer a 7 night package at MarBella Elix from £615pp, based on 2 people travelling, including 7 nights’ Half Board accommodation with flights from London Gatwick. Departures are available on 4 May 2022, this includes a 37 per cent saving of £366pp (price was £981pp). For bookings, call 020 8492 6868 or visit olympicholidays.com