Foundation Magazine

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Article Title

FOUNDATION MAGAZINE

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Issue One

ISSUE ONE


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A Letter from the Editor

Article Title

Dear Readers, Nobody tells you when you launch a magazine, that creating it is the easy part. That the endless late nights, the 10pm coffee runs, the failed photoshoots and the interviewees that don’t show up, the endless redrafting and the days blurring into one, that’s the easy part. The hard part is writing an Editors Letter. Nobody tells you what to write in an Editors Letter. They don’t teach you that in school, they don’t give you a hand out when you announce your plans to launch a magazine. Sure, you can read other Editors Letters, but if anything, that’s more intimidating. These powerful men and women at the helms of great magazines, have authority and experience. They deserve a letter. So I started to think about what gave me the authority to deserve this letter. This magazine has been a dream of mine for years, I’ve poured years of beauty knowledge into these pages, and hopefully you’ll see, some of the passion too. Whilst you can find a giant beauty community online now, for us old school girls who still appreciate the printed word, there was nothing. Filling that gap is something I’ve wanted to do for a very long time, but it’s taken the longest time to find the best way of doing that. I wanted to create for you a reading experience. A reading experience that you can cherish, an experience that you look forward to repeating every season. Whether you read this curled up on the sofa with a pot of your favourite tea, or on your morning commute, I hope that reading Foundation brings some happiness to your day. I hope that when you part with five British Pounds for this magazine, it feels like a treat, like a little luxury. Like a eating waffles on a Sunday afternoon, or a brand new lipstick, or a day spent doing nothing at all. And I hope you learn something. I hope that this magazine is above all, useful to you. That you finally master eyeliner, or that you find a product you love, or you read a story that inspires you. Essentially, I hope the love that we have poured into these pages is obvious to you. Until next time,

Editor


Foundation

4 Contents

IN THIS ISSUE THE PEOPLE

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Ever wanted to know what other girls like you around the globe have got in their makeup bag? Or the answer to that burning beauty question you’ve been pondering all week? Or what it would be like to work as a makeup artist? We’ve got all the answers on Page 08.

THE PRODUCTS We’ve cultivated the best of the best when it comes to summer beauty bumf, to make sure that when you decide to part with your pennies in Boots next week, it’s on the right stuff. Meet your shopping list on Page 30.

THE TRAVEL EDIT

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As we head into the summer months, what more appropriate theme for our first issue than travel? Whether you’re heading off on a sunny beach holiday, or kicking it back in the fields of Glastonbury, we’ve got everything covered. Turn to Page 42 to get your fix of wanderlust.

THE ESSAYS

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Get your reading glasses on and put your feet up with a cup of tea, whilst we talk about a whole host of beauty issues, from a tax that will shock you, to the psychology behind compliments. Find out more on Page 62.

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THE WELLBEING EDIT

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THE HOW TO’S

If you’re on a mission to be beautiful inside and out, then head here first. We’re dishing the dirt on how you can eat yourself pretty, and some shifty beauty ingredients that you should be avoiding. Head to Page 76 to discover the new you.

If you’ve ever wondered how to perfect your liner look, make your own body scrub, or save a bad hair day, we’ve got your back. And we’re making it look easy. Get in on the secret on Page 86.


Foundation

6 Contributtors

This month we were lucky enough to add an eclectic group of contributors to the mix, each bringing their own passions and flair to these pages. From bloggers to makeup artists, we’ve got an opinion for everyone, and we hope you enjoy reading their pieces as much as we enjoyed having them on board.

SALI JONES Ms Moo Make Up is Sali Jones - a Nottingham based make-up artist with a lust for life, make-up, gin, neat eyebrows, cake, holidays and good food!

LUCY ABBERSTEEN

DANNIELLA JOSEPHINE

Lucy is a trainee journalist from Cambridge studying

A 20 something Northerner always finding an excuse

at The University of Sheffield. She freelances for

for just one more red lipstick.

a number of publications and will be interning at GLAMOUR magazine this summer.

ALINA ISAEV

CARLY ROBERTS

Blogger at The Fairytale Pretty Picture, writes about

A 20 year old Journalism student at The University

Fashion, Beauty and Lifestyle. Judge at the UK

of Sheffield, keen beauty writer, and Orange Is The

Blog Awards and winner in the Cosmopolitan Blog

New Black geek.

Awards 2014.


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THINGS WE’VE LEARNT & LOVED CREATING THIS ISSUE

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Contrary to popular belief, Queen of the Nude Lip Kylie Jenner doesn’t have just one go to lipstick, but a whole 10 product line up that she rotates through. Don’t worry, we were disappointed too. The Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer will hide a multitude of sins (read: late nights). Avocados may be good for you, but there is such a thing as too much guacamole. Even when it’s from Whole Foods.

9 Instagram is the biggest detriment to productivity the world has ever seen. Every year Estée Lauder bring out the Bronze Goddess fragrance, and every year we fall back in love with it. Summer in a bottle. Sticking Post-It notes on your face to guide your liquid liner efforts, actually works. Yes, you look stupid for five minutes, but you look great for the rest of the day. The Josie Maran Coconut Watercolour Eyeshadows are like MAGIC for the lids. Magic. Add the shades Playa Del Pink and Bora Bora Bronze to your Sephora basket, and chuck in the Tarte Blush in Blissful, and the

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Kat Von D Monarch palette to bump it up to the £6 flat shipping rate threshold. If you go to the same Starbucks everyday for a week, they’ll remember your name, your order, and still forget to use Soy milk. The CoLab dry shampoo is a god-send for the last week before print, when ain’t nobody got time to wash their hair. It is possible to buy too many MAC Lipsticks. You’ll know it happened if every time you go to MAC you pick up the lipsticks you already have. Every. Single. Time.

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10 things we’ve learnt £& loved creting this issue

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Foundation


THE

PEOPLE


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The People

SO

You think you want my job? A day in the life of a Makeup Artist

Contrary to popular belief, jobs in the beauty industry aren’t as easy as they may first appear. This issue, makeup artist Sali Jones gives us an exclusive peak into what an average day on the job looks like! Ms Moo Make Up is Sali Jones – a professional freelance make-up artist with over 8 years’ experience based in Nottingham. Specialising in bridal/special occasion make-up, editorial, commercial, beauty and everything in between!

So You Think You Want My Job?


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SO you think you want my job?

SO you think you want my job?

...have you worn a latex ball gown that has to be stepped into and doesn’t have a zip? You can ask anyone, but I bet that no two days are the same for a makeup artist. I’ve started bridal make-up at 6am and 6pm, travelled three hours to a disused airfield in Grimsby to shoot in a dilapidated aircraft, thrown flour and glitter at models, painted people in SFX make-up, fake blood and glitter glue, hoisted bums and boobs into clothing that was slightly too tight in places; have you worn a latex ball gown that has to be stepped into and doesn’t have a zip? That’s an experience for both the model and the person/people who gets in it, believe me! Like a good chunk of the population, I start my day (like many others) by reaching for my iPhone to look at emails, social media and the news. I relish the chance of a lie in and I try to have separate admin days for emails and messages, and I have a to-do spreadsheet which I update regularly to keep myself in check! On days that I’m not shooting I’ll either work from home or find a café/ bar in Nottingham with free Wi-Fi. I’ve got a selection of favourites places now who all know what I drink; both pre-5pm and post 5pm! I will work from home as well, but I sometimes find I’ll get distracted by chores and then not really knuckle down. A fellow friend and business owner suggested it as she finds she’s more productive, so I took her advice. It helps me get more done in less time. I have more focus on my to-do list and it helps me differentiate between work and home; when I’m home I can relax and not be looking guiltily at my laptop thinking about what needs to get done! As a part of maintaining my work/life balance, I’ve got myself a little city centre studio. I’d say 90% of the work I do is out of there now; just a little space for me and my make-up. I do my one-to-one lessons there, makeovers for clients going on a night out and most of wedding makeup trials. It’s great having all my kit in once place! While I’ve my own studio room for make-up, I share the building with Luna Photography; my best friend and partner in crime and business. We run a makeover photo shoot business together and are often collaborating on that or for designer look books, model portfolios or simply for us to flex our creative muscles.

On wedding mornings, my day will actually start the night before making sure everything is packed. I clean all my brushes, leaving them to dry overnight. I go through emails and messages and make sure I’ve got the address of where I need to be, the time I need to be there, the number of clients, wedding time and a contact number. All these things need to be mentally checked off for a smooth start to the day! With my kit checked, lunch packed, details confirmed and brushes cleaned I’m ready for anything and everything but make-up isn’t just having your brushes and products in place; it’s business management too. No two days are the same in this job, but I wouldn’t change it for the world!

WORDS: Sali Jones


#foundationfixes

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It’s a common misconception among women that your skin is either ‘dry’ or ‘oily’ or ‘combination’, and it will always been that way. If you think about it, a baby isn’t born with a specific skin type, it just has skin, like the rest of us, and our environmental conditions and the stressors we place on our skin are what determine our skin type. A change in skin type can normally be attributed to a change in hormones or lifestyle, so it’s worth considering what could have caused this shift in your skin, so you can help get it

#FOUNDATIONFIXES

back on track, and not waste all your products! In the

Our top team of experts is on hand on

bay, and a light weight moisturiser like the Caudalie

Twitter to help you with all your beauty woes, from skincare to makeup application

meantime, strip your skincare routine back to basics, a good cleanser like the First Aid Beauty Skin Rescue Deep Cleanser with Red Clay will help keep oil at Vinosource Moisturising Sorbet will keep your skin hydrated without adding to the oiliness.

tips, 24/7, to get involved in the chat follow @foundation_mag on Twitter, and tweet your questions with #foundationfixes!

Instead of trying to cover dry patches, work on trying to get rid of them! Add a gentle exfoliant into your morning routine, and try using a light oil before you apply your makeup, like the Superfacialist Rose Oil by Una Brennan. If your dry patches are still hanging about, try a smoothing, hydrating primer under your foundation, like the Laura Mercier Hydrating Foundation Primer.


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#foundationfixes

The People

Beauty blogging’s rising star

The first step to long lasting makeup is a good primer, we love the Max Factor Facefinity All Day Primer, which creates the perfect base for your foundation to adhere too. A good setting powder will always help keep things in place, but if you’re after the fresh and dewy look, switch out the powder for a makeup setting spray, like the Urban Decay All Nighter, it’s like hairspray for your makeup! Unfortunately, a lot of brands just don’t cater for pale skin in their foundation line ups, so it can be hard to find a good match! We love the L’Oreal True Match

Foundation, and the YSL Le Teint Touche Eclat, both of which have a great shade range! As far as the glasses problem, try using less foundation on the bridge of your nose, and use a dampened makeup sponge like the Beauty Blender to really press it into your skin. Set with a lightweight powder, and give your makeup five minutes or so to set before you put your glasses on!

BEAUTY BLOGGING’S RISING STAR Talks to us about bad beauty habits, being a workaholic and what it’s like to be a female pioneer in the world of digital media. When setting about deciding who we wanted to interview in our maiden issue of Foundation, we decided we wanted to talk towomen who were also putting their best foot forward in a new wave of beauty media. Beauty blogging has spiraled in a way that no one could have predicted, there are thousands of sites out there that

are

churning

out fresh and exciting beauty

musings on a daily basis. Amongst those leading the trend is Rebecca Warriner, the quiet twentysomething photography graduate, who lives in Nottingham with her Westie, and has a cult following of dedicated readers. Rebecca is now the proud co-owner of online inspiration-hub A Little Opulent, a website that offers daily content for the young creative, but her roots go back to From Roses, the beauty blog known for it’s stunning photography and reliable, honest reviews.


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The People

Beauty blogging’s rising star

We decided to meet over coffee to discuss all things beauty and blogging, and from the moment she ordered a large peppermint mocha, I knew I wanted her to be my best friend. “I never started my blog to make money,” she

She might be making her name in the blogging

says, blushing, “it amazes me everyday that I make

community, but Rebecca is the first to admit she shies

money doing something I enjoy, like it completely

away from the ‘blogger’ label. “I worry that people

baffles me!” It doesn’t amaze me, going back

will come across my blog and think that that’s the be

through the archives it’s clear to see that the key

all and end all of my work. Yes I like talking about

to Rebecca’s success lies solely in her content,

makeup, and yes I like sharing with the online

you can tell she pours her heart and soul into

community, but there are more strings to my bow

each piece she produces. “When you’re blogging

than that. There’s a misconception out there that

daily, it’s easy to fall into a trap of filling up days

all bloggers are shallow, and that makeup is a vapid

with sub-par content” she tells me, “I don’t see the

interest to have, but I really don’t think that’s true

point in that, if I wouldn’t want to read it, my readers

at all.” And even if I wasn’t at the helm of a beauty

won’t either! I’m a total perfectionist, I’d feel like I was

magazine, she speaks with such conviction that I’m

doing my blog a disservice if I created and published

inclined to agree.

something I didn’t truly love.”

And in actual fact, Rebecca is kept busy buy a lot

So what is her signature style? “pretty minimal,” she

more than just a beauty blog. A Little Opulent is now

tells me, “a sculpting pink shade on the cheeks and

a year old, and amazingly for an online company, is

then lashings of mascara is what I tend to go for.

turning a profit, no mean feat in what she admits

I like a really simple look! I’m not a trend follower,

is already a content saturated market. “People ask

that’s for sure!”

me what I do all day, and I worry I give them a look that says ‘are you a total idiot?!’ I think people think

What does the future hold for Rebecca? “I hope

that when you’re self employed and you work from

eventually to move A Little Opulent into print, that’s

home, you stay in bed all day, but for me the reality

the dream. Right now our audience is online, and

is so different. I’m a total workaholic and I feel guilty

even a year down the line we are still establishing

when I’m not working. I can’t shut off, I’m pretty much

ourselves, but we hope to be able to create a

working from the moment I get up until I go back to

publication at some point that inspires everyone.

bed! Unfortunately, this online world of content is

Part magazine, part coffee table book!”

still relatively new and foreign to people, they just

BEAUTY PROFILE What’s your skin type? Combination. Favourite foundation? YSL Youth Liberator Foundation. High street or High End? I’m definitely someone who has a good mixture of both, so I just cannot decide!

don’t understand it! They think that blogging is easy,

Fans of Rebecca’s can rest assured that she’s got a

something they can do on their lunch break, but they

lot more coming your way, “I have lots of exciting

don’t realise that it’s so much more than bashing

plans, I just can’t share them yet!” she teases. With

out a few paragraphs! I’ve gotten to a point where

her savvy business head and heart of pure gold, we

I consider planning posts and replying to comments

can see her going from success to success.

as downtime! I’ve just got so much on my to do list that sitting down to reply to blog post comments with Netflix on in the background is essentially a

To hear more from Rebecca, head to our website to

night off!”

see her answers to our quick fire beauty questions!

Must have product for summer? Dove Summer Body

Despite her successes in the beauty world, Rebecca

Gradual Tanner.

doesn’t consider herself to be a true makeup maven,

Makeup inspiration? Miranda Kerr and Alexa Chung! On your wishlist? More of the Fresh Sugar lip balms.

“I know what works for me, and how I like my face to look, I have a comfort zone when it comes to makeup and I rarely stray from it. But I think that’s why people enjoy what I have to say, my readers aren’t interested in catwalk style or the latest black lipstick trend, they’re looking for products they can use day in, day out to create simple, but pretty looks. I’m all about enhancing your natural features, not caking my face in product!”


Instead of showing you the inside of a celebrity’s makeup bag of trickery, we thought that it would be much more useful to show you what women around the world, just like you, are using in their beauty bags. great when I accidentally forget to. This has enough

years - one cuter than the other. But after several

coverage to even out my skintone and look radiant

too many times of aggressive digging around to try

while not being oily. That said, as I do tend to get oily

and find my eyeliner lost at the bottom of my bag,

skin in the summer, a good oil-obsorbing powder is

I decided practicality was far more important than

a must. The Soap and Glory One Heck of a Blot is the

looking pretty. Especially on mornings when you’re

only powder that has the ability to keep oil at bay for

short of time and haven’t had enough coffee. There

more than 6 hours without ever looking chalky. While

aren’t any bells and whistles to this makeup bag, but

I keep my makeup minimal most days, a bold lipstick

that’s the beautiful thing about it - it allows you to

is my go to when I want to go a bit fancy. Long-lasting

find everything immediately, even if you don’t have

and not drying at all, I don’t have to worry about the

x-ray vision.

Catrice Ultimate Stay Lipstick melting off my face. A

The everygirl makeup bag

“I have accumulated a lot of makeup bags over the

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beautiful orange-red, Red Side Story is my favourite Summers are already hot and humid enough as

summer lip choice.”

it is - I like to keep my makeup simple and reduce the chance of it melting off. My base of choice is definitely the NARS Radiant Tinted Moisturizer. Although I do put on sunscreen, but the SPF 30 is

Name: Daphne Shen Location: Taipei

The Everygirl

Makeup Bag “I’ve never been one of those girls who carries their entire face around in their handbag. I don’t touch

is my concealer and the one I always reach for is

up my makeup all that much because I kind of

the NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Custard. It

just forget about it throughout the day, so I really

blends beautifully into the skin without clinging to

keep my makeup bag to the bare minimum. It’s the

dry patches and whether it’s redness, dark circles or

American Apparel Small Leather Carry-All Pouch,

acne, this stuff has you covered… literally! I don’t go

which is small, but roomy enough for all the daily

anywhere without a hand sanitiser and my staple is

essentials.

the Aesop Resurrection Rinse-Free Hand Wash. The Aesop hand sanitiser smells earthy and herbal, and

For lips, I always carry around a lip balm and my lip

the fragrance alone really helps to make the hands

colour of the day. At the moment, I’m really loving

feel clean and fresh again. It isn’t at all drying, but if

the Grown Alchemist Vanilla & Watermelon Lip

they do feel dry, the Caudalie Hand and Nail Cream

Balm, which smells fruity and sinks in wonderfully

does the job and also smells amazing. I’m a sucker

to hydrate the lips. MAC’s Velvet Teddy Lipstick

for good-smelling products.”

has been my go-to lip colour as of late because as a nude, it’s so easy to wear and the matte formula makes it really long-lasting. I’m a sucker for 90s trends and I’m loving the revival of dark nude lips! Apart from lips, the only other makeup I’ll touch up

Name: Tenneil Allmark Location: Melbourne


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Section Title

Article Title

COMPULSIVE BEAUTY A woman who wears her scars proudly When we think about what makes a woman beautiful, it’s easy to automatically think of the women we see splattered on the pages of glossy magazines. Well here at Foundation, we’ve always been much more interested in real women, the un-photoshopped edition, and what makes women just like you and I feel beautiful.


Compulsive beauty

26 But what happens when something comes along that threatens that feeling of beauty? Well, that’s what I wanted to find out when I spoke to artist Liz Atkin, who from the age of eight battled with Compulsive Skin Picking, a disorder that has left her with scars all over her body.

I had to confront the illness head-on when I started a Masters in Dance, and it was then that I realised I could use the illness, and study it in terms of a movement pattern in and on my body. I had no idea at the time how life changing that would be, I turned the disorder around.”

Compulsive Skin Picking is a complex disorder that affects people both physically and mentally, often from early childhood. “I had no idea that it was a recognised and dominant illness,” Liz said, “it was only through various Internet searches that I realised it had a name.”

Liz showed me some of her earliest artwork, experiments late at night where she used a battered old printer to scan images of her face, and played with light and different household objects to distort the images. “That printer went through so much,” she laughs, “I even poured milk over it, and it still worked!” Through her work as an artist, Liz had found a way to express herself and her emotions in a way language couldn’t help her. “I recognised the physicality of skin picking; I began to turn it into a creative practice; to use my skin as a soft canvas for imaginative transformation and ultimately healing. I explored the way my body moved; I used body-focused repetitive behaviour as an art practice and miraculously began to get better. I now create artworks about Compulsive Skin Picking, Depression and Anxiety with textural materials like latex, clay, acrylic paint to transform the skin. I have exhibited my artwork in therapeutic settings and galleries all over the world, including Japan, Los Angeles, Melbourne and London.”

At the height of its hold on Liz, the condition left her face and body covered with wounds, scars and scabs. “It developed into something I did subconsciously, so there were hours and hours of a day where I would be picking my skin. Some nights I would pick until the early hours of the morning, I would even pick in my sleep.” For Liz, picking was a way to release tension, block out emotions and find a sense of calm when the anxiety of growing up in an alcoholic household became too much to bear. “It became a private, vicious cycle that totally dominated my life behind closed doors.” Looking at Liz, you would never guess that she had suffered so greatly. When we met, I was instantly struck by how she commanded the room, and her striking beauty. With a heavy blunt fringe and a bold red lip, she looked fantastic, and above all, confidant. But by the time Liz reached her late 20’s, her skin picking had become a source of embarrassment and shame, which only led to worsen her chronic anxiety. “No one knew about it. I masked and covered the illness from those closest to me, wearing clothes that concealed the parts of my body covered in scabs and scars, lying that I’d recently chicken pox, making excuses and even using make-up on my body to try to mask it. I had no choice really to try and help myself, because it was destroying me.

Liz’s art provided her a means of escape from the vicious cycle of anxiety and picking. “I have been making work as an artist for a decade now, but I only really ‘came out’ about the skin disorder and mental illness in 2013...it was a very hard decision at the time, but it has transformed my life and purpose. I realised as I started to get better as a result of making this work, it was a valid and important piece of information the audience were missing out on. I could have just carried on saying ‘I make work about skin’ but when I started saying ‘I make work about a compulsive skin picking disorder I have had all my life’ audience reaction began to change...that became very important to me.”


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The People

Compulsive Beauty

“I recognised the physicality of skin picking I began to turn it into a creative practice; to use my skin as a soft canvas for imaginative transformation and ultimately healing”

For Liz, Compulsive Skin Picking dominated her body in private, but eventually the artwork became more important than the illness. Through art, Liz was able to normalise and control her condition. Thankfully, Liz is now in recovery, “there are periods of wellness where is doesn’t happen at all, but it’s my body’s default mechanism to handle stress, fear, anger, boredom, so it’s a daily reprieve and a constant shadow. Making artwork is a crucial way to keep me well. I take photographs every day and draw and paint as part of my art practice.”


The People

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Compulsive beauty

“I now feel beautiful and proud of the skin I am in,

I was keen to know how Liz feels about her body now, whether she feels beautiful in her skin, and whether the illness still has a hold on how she feels about her body. “I developed an understanding of my body,” she tells me, “I now have some degree of control over my condition. I have tremendous respect for my body, it may sound strange, but the skin picking actually was a very important factor in keeping me going when I felt overwhelmed, the marks and scars will always be with me, but many are fading and I now see them as being an important part of the tapestry of my skin, they are a crucial part of my lived experience, as well as inspiration for my artwork. I hold the scars in great affection now, because they are part of my strength as well as moments of fragility. The body is remarkable – it heals and recovers – the skin is a remarkable organ. I now feel beautiful and proud of the skin I am in, just as it is.”

just as it is.”


THE

PRODUCTS


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35 Finding a skincare routine

The Products

SHEER LIP PICKS FOR SUMMER SAVE The Body Shop’s line of ‘Colour Crush’ lipsticks are the perfect compromise between long lasting formula and sheer glossy finish. We love the shade Sunset Romance, for it’s cute name, and perfect Summery coral finish.

SPEND Our undisputed favourite for shade range, the Bobbi Brown Sheer Lip colours have something for everyone. The formula is intensely hydrating, and they impart the perfect hint of colour, but can be built up for something more intense. We can’t get enough of the shade Rosy.

SPLURGE Is there anything more luxurious than a Dior lipstick? We think not. Now this is essentially a glorified lip balm, but the hint of summer pink it imparts on the lips just can’t be replicated on the high street, the Dior Lip Glow goes with everything.

FINDING A SKINCARE ROUTINE My relationship with my skin has never been one of mutual understanding. In fact, quite the opposite, it’s been fraught with frustration and abuse for the most part, particularly throughout my student days of junk food and being too lazy to take my makeup off before bed. My teenage years were mostly controlled by acne, the kind that massively affected my self-confidence, and dictated my daily life. Bad skin is a real cause of anxiety, especially as a hormonal teenage girl at an all girl’s school, and I remember many a social occasion bailed on because I was worried about how my skin looked. Lucky for me, I’ve come a long way since then, and whilst acne no longer is a massive problem for me, I’ve never really understood my skin. So last month, I undertook a mission of sorts to get to know my own skin, and settle into some semblance of a routine with my skincare. Throughout those spotty teenage years, talking about my skin was a big no go for me. It was a sensitive topic and even talking about it with my mum was a big no go. So for me to book an appointment with a beauty therapist specialising in facials and skincare, that was a big deal. Despite


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The Products

Step One: Talk to a professional not having any kind of anxiety about my skin these days, I found myself feeling incredibly nervous before my appointment. I needn’t have worried, my beauty therapist Lucy Brooker was one of the most knowledgeable, and downright lovely beauticians I’d ever met. “Think of your skin as a reflection of the state of your body,” she told me, “when you’re stressed, happy, tired, eating well or eating badly, all these things will show up on your skin. Your skin is kind of like a more complicated version of a check engine light, it’s letting us know what’s going on inside your body, and whether something is wrong.” We discussed my skincare concerns in depth (dehydration and occasional periods of oiliness and sporadic breakouts that could be attributed to hormones), and I was advised to up my daily intake of water, and avoid using skincare products with any fragrance in, or mineral oil. I got a little slap on the wrists for admitting to skipping out on moisturiser regularly, for fear of inviting oiliness, and given some product recommendations to try out.

What I Used - The Morning LineUp Origins Checks and Balances Foaming Cleanser – A hard-working cleanser that really leaves the skin feeling clean without feeling stripped. The minty fragrance was much appreciated on my skin early in the morning, and it left my skin feeling refreshed and clean. Caudalie Vinosource Moisturising Sorbet – A lightweight moisturiser, with a whipped, mousse texture. The texture means it sinks into the skin fast so you don’t have to wait around for it to absorb before you apply your makeup, but it’s still really hydrating. First Aid Beauty Triple Duty Eye Remedy – A triple threat eye cream with a peachy tint, that helps disguise dark circles in the mornings. It’s got a bizarre cooling applicator that I imagine is akin to putting a cold spoon on your under-eyes, but it’s quite nice first thing in the morning.

Finding a skincare routine

Step Two: A new product lineup Under Lucy’s instruction, I set out on a spending mission to revamp my skincare wardrobe. I had specified that I wanted a simple routine, something that even if I was exhausted, or falling down drunk, I could stick to. Luckily for me, more is not always more. Lucy advised me to strip my skincare routine back to absolute basics, a simple routine that I’m more likely to be consistent. A relief, because some of the twelve step cleansing routines I’d seen raved about online made me want to give up all together, and just go back to makeup wipes and leave it at that. Who has the time to cleanse twelve times? Do they have any skin left after that? Together, Lucy and I decided that I needed to be using a cleanser, moisturiser and eye cream in the mornings, and a makeup remover, cleanser, oil and eye cream in the evening, which sounds like a lot written down, but it took up a lot less room on my bathroom shelf than the previous set up.

What I Used - The Evening LineUp The Body Shop Sumptuous Camomile Cleansing Butter – A soft and gentle balm makeup remover that can be used for eye makeup as well as face products. This is incredibly soft on the skin, and leaves my face feeling clean but nourished. First Aid Beauty Skin Rescue Deep Cleanser with Red Clay – A gel cleanser that really works hard cleaning the skin, leaving my pores feeling and looking smaller. Trilogy Rosehip Oil Antioxidant - A lightweight oil with nourishing and healing properties. A few drops of this massaged into the skin feels incredibly luxurious, this is what helped my hormonal breakout heal so fast. Balance Me Wonder Eye Cream – A good balance between nourishing and lightweight, this doesn’t feel heavy under the eyes, and works wonders at keeping fine lines at bay.

Step Three: Dietary Changes The step I was dreading the most, being a pizza lover at heart, I set up a meeting with Skin Nutritionalist, Marta Szyc. Most upsettingly, she told me that yes, if I really wanted the best possible skin, I needed to cut back on my intake of coffee, fizzy drinks and yup, pizza. Bugger. But I was assured that by cutting back and upping my intake of leafy greens and water, I’d see a drastic improvement in my skin pretty quickly. Now, I’ll be honest, I haven’t been perfect with this step. There have been one or two early morning coffees to pull me through a long day, and there may have been one sneaky Domino’s order, but I haven’t craved it like I thought I would, and Marta was right, the difference was almost instant.

The Results After about a month of religiously sticking to my new routine, I can honestly say that I saw a difference in my skin. Instead of feeling dry and tight most of the time, my skin was wholly more comfortable, and definitely somewhat plumper (in a good way, not a ‘I ate too many cheese fries’ kinda way). Whilst I still had a bit of a hormonal breakout around my chin at that time of the month, it was nothing like what I’d experienced before, a lot less red, and it vanished pretty sharpish.


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Finding a skincare routine

How to shop for foundation

HOW TO SHOP FOR FOUNDATION What I learnt: • Drinking enough water has a massive effect on the skin. I went from two or three glasses a day to six to eight, and not only was my skin clearer and plumper, it looked healthier and younger. • Taking five minutes twice a day to implement a proper skincare routine is worth it. Yes, it’s boring, like brushing your teeth or painting your nails, but the pros far outweigh the cons. • In the world of skincare, less really is more. By not overloading my skin with products, I was able to see what worked for me and what didn’t much more easily, and I didn’t feel like my evening cleanse session was too much of a drag. It’s also much kinder on the bank balance. • My skin isn’t dehydrated, or combination, at least not any more. My skin is very normal, and when it’s got a regular routine it’s much better behaved, kind of like an unruly child.

Foundation is quite possibly the hardest beauty product to buy, it’s the easiest to get wrong because there are so many factors to consider. And yet, a good foundation can transform your entire face, so getting it right is important, so here are some things to consider next time you go shopping for a new base.

1. Identify what you want before you go near a store.

It’s so much easier to find the perfect base if you actually know what you’re looking for. What sort of coverage do you want, do you want a matte or dewy finish, what sort of price are you willing to pay, and what type of skin do you have? Knowing the answers to all these questions will help you massively, and stop you from looking in the wrong places.

2. Research, research, research.

If there’s one product you should never blind buy, it’s foundations. Check your favourite blogs, read up in magazines, even ask your friends what they use. A lot of blogs will have either a search bar or a product directory, so you can find what you’re looking for easily. Even just Googling ‘medium coverage foundation for dry skin’ will help you out!

to oxidise throughout the day. Make sure you go outside and check the colour match in natural light. If it’s a drugstore product, apply a little product to your neck and then get outside and look, or get a friend to snap a picture so you can see. If you’re buying online, check out Temptalia’s Foundation Matrix, to match you up with your perfect shade (that thing is never wrong).

4. Get a sample.

Having worked on a beauty counter, I know that a lot of sales assistants are reluctant to give out samples, but if you’re shedding out your cash for their products, then the least they can do is give you a day or two worth of product to sample. Be nice, be reasonable, explain that you want to make sure the shade doesn’t oxidise, and that it wears well throughout the day.

5. Wait.

After you’ve had the product applied at a counter, or you’ve put a little on yourself, leave the shop, carry on with your shopping, and see how it looks in a few hours time. Make sure it hasn’t worn away, or changed colour!

3. Find your perfect shade.

If you’re going into a store, take along a foundation that already matches you well for reference. If it’s a high end foundation, ask the sales assistant to try it out on you, so not only you can see how it wears, but you can also make sure it’s not going

Head to our website https://foundationmagazine. wordpress.com to find out more about our favourite foundation picks!


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The Products

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GET GORGEOUS IN 10 MINUTES

Whilst we wouldn’t recommend skimping on your skincare routine every morning, sometimes needs must. Strip back to basics, and spritz your skin with something like the Caudalie Eau De Beauté. It’ll tighten your pores and give a little glow back to your complexion, all whilst offering a boost of hydration too. Whilst that dries, give your undereyes a little TLC with the First Aid Beauty Triple Remedy Eye Cream. The metal tip cools and de-puffs those under-eyes, whilst the peachy tinted eye cream hydrates and cancels out any dark circles. Magic.

NINE MINUTES TO GO - COVERAGE

A good base can compensate for a multitude of other sins, so it’s worth spending a little time here. Pick out a lightweight base that offers coverage, but that you can apply with your hands to save time. We love the NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser, which offers good coverage and a lotta glow too. Follow up with a high coverage concealer that can battle under-eyes and blemishes with equal force, and blends out a treat to boot. The Maybelline Fit Me Concealer is a great, budgetfriendly option, and comes in a great range of shades. Oily gals, you may want to spare an extra thirty seconds here for powder!

SEVEN MINUTES TO GO - COLOUR

A little colour on the cheeks adds life back into lacklustre skin. Pick your poison, blush or bronzer, but be sure to pick a shade that’s on the subtle side. A blush with a little shimmer is a good idea, something like the NARS blush in Deep Throat is a great, easy wear option.

SIX MINUTES TO GO - THE EASY EYE

Grab your favourite long wearing pencil liner and apply messily along the upper lash line. Before it has time to set, take a coarse bristled brush, or a cotton bud and smudge it out. Pair with lashings of your most volumising mascara, for a lived in, smokey, defined look.

FOUR MINUTES TO GO - BROWS

A little brow maintenance is one of the steps that helps with that polished, put together look. Something like the L’Oreal Brow Artist Plumper is seriously easy to apply, just swipe through the brows to add colour and hold them in place, no matter how long your day is.

THREE MINUTES TO GO - HAIR

We all have those days, the ones where you snooze your alarm as many times as physically possible without sleeping ’til noon, and regret it as soon as you catch sight of your sleep ridden face in the mirror. Never fear, we’ve got your back with a beauty bag stuffed full of goodness to turn you from sleeping to beauty.

A quick go through those locks with a Tangle Teezer, and a spritz of dry shampoo in the roots will go a long way to faking good hair. If you can, leave your hair down, but if that’s not an option, go for a chunky messy braid, easy to do in a matter of seconds, and looks like you’ve made an effort.

THIRTY SECONDS TO GO - KISSABLE LIPS

Put down your bright red lipsticks and opt for something a little more low maintenance, that you can apply as you run out of the door. A neutral gloss or a tinted lip balm is your best bet, we love the Pixi Shea Butter Lip Balm in Ripe Raspberry, incredibly nourishing, and it imparts a pretty pink sheen.

Get gorgeous in ten minues

TEN MINUTES TO GO - BRIGHTEN


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The Products

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We’ve rounded up the very best of Summer’s new beauty launches into a bitesized, more budget friendly edit.!

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URBAN DECAY DO BLUSHES – There’s been a blush shaped whole in Urban Decay’s beauty line up for the longest time, but not any more. These launch on counters this month and boast an eight-hour wear time. The general consensus from the team here is that while some of the shades are a little out there (what else would we expect from Urban Decay?), if you like long lasting makeup, these definitely live up to the eight-hour claim. WATERCOLOUR LIPGLOSS? – We drooled after last year’s Deconstructed Rose Lip Library from Bite, and whilst this year’s offering is a little more… eclectic… in it’s shade range, we still love it. The twelve shades inside promise a ‘light wash’ of colour, and the impeccable gloss formula we’ve come to expect from Bite. Don’t expect this to be on shelves for long.

New releases

NEW RELEASES

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CHISELED CHEEKS FROM TOO FACED – When this palette launched in the US in the Spring, we were more jealous than is healthy. But this beautiful palette is winging it’s way to UK shores as we speak, expect to find this in Debenhams stores from next month. SUMMER IN A BOTTLE FROM DIPTYQUE – It’s not often that Diptyque release a new scent, but Florabellio hits counters this month and we think you’ll be hard pushed to resist this one. With fruity notes of apple and apricot, blended with less ‘summery’ picks like coffee and sesame, this is an unusual scent, but one we can’t get enough of. FINALLY, MAKEUP FOREVER – The long anticipated UK launch of Makeup Forever is nigh, with products set to hit selected Debenhams stores in early June. Sephora’s most popular brand is home to some seriously gorgeous products, we recommend getting your hands on the Artist Shadows, and Pro Fusion Bronzer. Head to our website, or follow us on Twitter to keep up to date with new beauty launch news!

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TRAVEL EDIT


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47 Festival style

Festival style

FESTIVAL STYLE Whether you’re hitting up Glastonbury or a festival in warmer climates, pack a high SPF sunscreen to protect your skin from all-day sun exposure. You’ll be wanting a heavy duty deodorant, and a hardworking makeup remover to remove every scrape of makeup, sunscreen and sweat at the end of the day. Pack a lightweight base that you can apply with your fingers and without a mirror, and a waterproof mascara to stay put all day long without flaking or smudging. Coloured eyeliners are the easiest way to inject a little colour into your festival makeup bag, and they’re great if you fancy experimenting with your artistic side. Skip complicated hair products and swap in dry shampoo and a texturising spray for easy boho locks.

Nars Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser // Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 100 // Soap and Glory Smoulder and Kohl Liners // Max Factor Masterpiece Mascara Waterproof // CoLab Dry Shampoo // Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray // L’Occitane Eau de Parfum Rollerball


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Article Title

100ml Whittling down your beauty stash to a TSA approved bag is no mean feat. We suggest makeup wipes (just this once) so you don’t have to attempt to wash your face in those tiny bathrooms, and a hydrating facemask. Pick out makeup bits that are easy to apply without a mirror or brushes that just add a little bit of life into your skin for touchdown.

Caudalie Eau de Beauté // The Body Shop Drops of Youth Bouncy Face Mask // L’Oreal Skin Perfection // NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer // Art Deco Mascara // Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge in Calypso Coral


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The Travel Edit

The savvy packer

THE SAVVY PACKER We’ve all been there, you arrive at your destination after a long day travelling, unzip your makeup bag to freshen up for dinner and, disaster. Your cleanser has exploded coating everything in yellow goo, your favourite setting powder has smashed, and is mixing with the cleanser to form a weird sticky paste, and somehow you’ve packed four different eyeliners, but you’ve forgotten concealer and mascara. Well fear not, we’ve put together a foolproof guide to packing up your beauty products in the most travel friendly way possible, to make sure that you don’t spend the first hour of your holiday cleaning the inside of your suitcase. Firstly, make a list, and take it with you. If you make a list you are much less likely to take it with you, and by slipping it in your bag to take with you, you’ll have something to refer to when packing up your hotel room. No more leaving behind your favourite Laura Mercier moisturiser in a hotel bathroom. Think hard about what you really need. If you’re headed on a beach holiday your priorities should be suncream and a little light makeup for the evenings, you definitely won’t be requiring a full face of makeup. Whereas if you’re off for business, or on a city break, you might want something a little more. Leave your favourites at home. Sometimes it can be easy to just fill up your makeup bag with your favourite products, but should the worst happen and airlines lose your bag, or things get left in hotel rooms, it’ll be a lot easier to say goodbye to products that aren’t your holy grail.

With each item you pick out, think about the packaging, now is not the time for glass bottles or flimsy compacts. Pick out small foundations in plastic packaging, liquids with secure lids and sturdy powders, or decant your liquids into smaller pots (we love the selection at Muji). Smaller is better, so now’s the time to whip out any sample sizes and tiny compacts. It’s also worth putting any liquids inside a ziplock bag within your makeup bag, just incase a spillage does happen, the damage is limited. Protect your powders using top tip from makeup artist Sali Jones, “I place a cotton wool ball over the powder and then snap the lid shut. It acts as a cushion so the powder will stay intact, even if your bag gets thrown around by baggage handlers at the airport.” She also suggests using Sellotape to seal shut any products that are prone to leaking. Wherever possible, go for multitaskers to minimise the amount of products you need to take. A concealer that works for under eyes and blemishes, a cream blush for cheeks and lips, or an oil that you can use in your hair, on your body, or even to remove your makeup. Pack an eyeshadow palette with a dark shade you can use as liner, a lipstick that you can wear sheer in the daytime and build up at night, and a moisturiser with SPF in. When it comes to travel, palettes are your best friends, they offer more options with minimal packaging. Look for eyeshadow palettes with a good range of light and dark shades, and blush palettes that contain a bronzer and highlight too.


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53 Fly clever

The savvy packer

“I place a cotton wool ball over the powder and then snap the lid shut. It acts as a cushion so the powder will stay intact.”

FLY CLEVER We speak to Virgin Atlantic cabin crew to discover thrie top tips on maintaining good in flight heath Wherever possible, leave brushes behind, or at least take it back to basics. Pick bases that work when applied with fingers, a blush brush you can double up for setting powder and bronzer, and a multipurpose eye brush. Brushes end up taking a lot of room in your case, so ditch them wherever possible. When you’re all packed up and ready to go, place your makeup bag in the centre of the suitcase, and if possible, wrap it in something like a jumper. The clothes around it will help prevent any breakages, leaking or spills, and hopefully keep everything in one piece throughout your journey!

Whether you’re just hopping over to the South of France, or you’re headed to further shores this summer, it can never hurt to brush up on how to maintain tiptop health whilst flying.

of regular flying as a steward. Imagine what a bag of crisps does on a flight, the exact same thing happens to your body, hence why a lot of people feel bloated after a long flight!”

It’s no big secret that flying isn’t actually good for your health, but a lot of us remain oblivious to some of the more disturbing details. “Flying causes absolute havoc for your health, and the more regularly you fly, the more at risk you are.” Flight attendant Lucy Dixon tells us, “You can expect anything from skin issues, dry hands and lips, tummy troubles and varicose veins. You can get a lot of extra pain around your period, and a lot of my flight crew friends are now having issues getting pregnant now too. This is because each time you fly, your body expands thirty per cent, that’s everything, your organs, your tissue, the lot, it starts to get really painful after a few years

Bloating is a common problem during flights, particularly if you’re flying long haul. Caused by the pressure change and the strain of your body expanding during the flight (and not helped by the less than nutritious in-flight menu), more than 80% of us will feel uncomfortably bloated either during or post flight. “You want to drink at least a litre of water whilst on board, and hot water and lemon if you start to feel bloated.” says cabin crew member Alice Williams. “Avoiding alcohol and too many carbohydrates will help, and steering clear of sugary foods because your body will have a harder time processing them.”


The Travel Edit

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A top cabin crew tip is to pop a peppermint tea bag into a litre bottle of water, and let it steep whilst you drink it. The peppermint aids digestion, cleanses, and helps you feel full so you don’t overeat on the flight and feel more bloated

Whilst most airlines will claim that passenger wellbeing in flight is a top priority, unless you’re flying on a private yet, there’s not quite enough room for a full yoga session on board. However, keeping active whilst flying is vital to decrease the risk of Deep Vein Thrombosis. “Keep moving as much as possible,” says Alice, “rotate your ankles in your seat, get up and walk around the plane at regular intervals, clenching and relaxing your bum muscles, you want to encourage as much movement as possible.” More commonly, a lot of us will suffer with swollen legs and feet, particularly during a long haul flight, the effects of which can sometimes last a few days. “I wear pressure tights from M&S that help reduce swollen feet and legs, as cabin crew we walk around for the duration of the flight so our risk of this is greatly reduced anyway, but they’re really helpful, and I always wear them, especially when I fly as a passenger.” says Lucy. This kind of swelling is typically harmless, but it can become seriously uncomfortable, so it’s best to try and avoid it. Worryingly, medical emergencies in the air are a lot more common than you’d expect. “Fainting is incredibly common,” says Alice, “It’s normally people who get up early and get the kids ready and rush around the airport, or nervous fliers, they don’t eat anything before the flight and they pass out because the combination of no food and lower oxygen levels puts their bodies under too much stress. It’s so important to make sure you eat before flying, preferably something healthy and light, but high in good fats!” Keep hydrated throughout the duration of the flight, and make sure you keep snacking too.

DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT): occurs when blood clots in a major vein, most commonly in the legs or lower body, when blood flow has slowed. You’re more at risk if you’re a smoker, pregnant, on the Oral Contraceptive Pill, or over the age of 50. ‘HEAVY LEGS’: usually caused by inactivity during a flight, where the blood begins to pool in your leg veins. It’s not serious, unless it takes too long to disappear, in which case it’s advised you seek medical help. THE COMMON COLD: low humidity levels maintained in aircrafts dry out our mucus membranes, and inhibit your ability to fight off viruses. Be wary of any passengers nearby exhibiting symptoms, they’re your biggest threat. FAINTING: Most commonly caused by a combination of not eating and cabin pressure, but can also be caused by standing up too quickly after being seated for an extended period of time.

Whilst planes are not the cleanest environments, it’s not the cabin itself you should be worried about when it comes to picking up a cold. The humidity levels of an aircraft are kept below 20 per cent as standard, which lowers the affectivity of our mucus membranes, meaning we can’t fight off a virus how we normally would. Keeping hydrated in flight is the best way to help this, and popping a vitamin C tablet at take off won’t hurt either. Visit our website for more information on how to spot potential flight related health risks.

Fly clever

THE RISK LIST


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The Travel Edit

The perfect in-flight beauty routine

The Perfect In Flight Beauty Routine There’s nothing we love more than indulging in a little long haul flight pamper sesh, what else are you going to do at 40,000 feet whilst watching reruns of The Office?

Cabin Crew Top Tip – “Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream is a lifesaver for your lips and hands, it’s incredibly thick and gloopy but you need it to counteract the recycled oxygen.” With the harsh air conditioning, recycled air and general uncleanliness, planes can wreak havoc on your skin fairly quickly. We’ve put together a (fairly) low maintenance beauty routine that you can do from the comfort of your seat, to keep your skin in tip top condition. Now, we aren’t suggesting you go all out with the hair rollers and the manicures, besides looking a little strange, whacking out the nail polish probably isn’t the best way to impress your neighbours when you’ve got a limited air supply. There are, however, ways to indulge in a little pampering, without alerting everyone within a three-aisle radius.

WHEN YOU BOARD Start by washing your hands, whether that’s a quick trip to the plane’s bathroom, or with a good hand sanitizer. Planes are notoriously dirty, so get your digits clean before touching your face. Give your face a good old cleanse, on this occasion, we’ll forgive you for using face wipes. This is a great time to pull out a face spray, something like the Caudalie Eau de Beauté spray, or the Trilogy Hydrating Mist Toner, to give your skin a little extra boost and refresh. Follow up with a thick, hydrating moisturiser and eye cream to replenish the moisture you’ll lose from your skin throughout the flight. A thick enough cream will also help work as a barrier against excessive drying, and dirt too.

THROUGHOUT THE FLIGHT Keep your skin topped up with moisturiser throughout the flight to prevent dry, itchy skin. You can also take the opportunity to use an overnight mask, hydrating intensive treatments that are generally clear, and provide an additional boost of moisture to the skin. We love The Body Shop’s Drops of Youth Bouncy Sleep Mask, and Origins Drink Up Intensive. Don’t forget about your lips and hands whilst flying, as both are likely to show the effects of dehydration fast. Keep topping up with a good quality lip balm and hand cream throughout the duration of the flight.

Keeping hydrated is key to maintaining good skin throughout the flight, so don’t forget to drink a litre of water for every five hours you’re in the air.

Cabin Crew Top Tip

“I carry a mister bottle with water and coconut oil, and a few drops of Lavender and Melaleuca to help keep my skin hydrated, but any hydrating mist spray will work just as well.” BEFORE TOUCHDOWN Give your skin another cleanse to make sure you’re not taking any plane dirt with you to your destination. It’s a good idea to have a rollerball-style eye cream on hand at this point, to cool and depuff the undereyes. If you’re headed out on arrival and want a little bit of makeup, make sure to pick out products you can apply easily without brushes or a decent sized mirror. A good BB, CC, or tinted moisturiser is ideal, and a high coverage concealer to mask tired eyes or blemishes. Cream cheek products that can double up as lip colour are a great way to easily pull together your look, we love the Stila Convertible Colours.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE AT YOUR DESTINATION Once you’re checked in, get in the shower and indulge in a good old scrub, this will help get rid of any dirt from the plane, and help with dry skin. Follow up with an intensive moisturiser for both your body and your face, and complete with a good nights sleep. For more travel beauty tips, head to our website.


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The Travel Edit

Sunshine getaway

SUNSHINE GETAWAY For lazing on the beach in the glorious sunshine keep makeup light and simple. Opt for cream products, pretty bright colours, and anything that’ll give you a little glow. Leave behind your heat styling tools, and pack a hair product that can be spritzed into damp hair to create easy, textured waves. Try a spray SPF to make topping up in the sunshine easier than ordering another Strawberry Daiquiri.

Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Body Mist SPF 30 // Bourjois 123 Perfect CC Cream // Josie Maran Coconut Watercolour Eyeshadow in Playa Del Pink // Stila Convertible Colour in Gerbera // Smashbox Halo Highlighting Wand // TresemmĂŠ Perfectly Undone Wave Creating Sea Foam


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The Travel Edit

City break

CITY BREAK We all love a city break, but long days in the smog can melt down your makeup fast, and wreak havoc with your skin. Pack a long lasting primer, and a mattifying foundation that’s light on the skin but holds up well under pressure. A makeup setting spray is a must, as is a lightweight powder. Save room in your case by packing a pretty pink lipstick that can be worn sheer in the day and built up for a bolder evening. Don’t forget to pack a cleansing and uplifting bodywash to get the scent of the city off you at the end of the day.

Korres Guava Shower Gel // Max Factor Facefinity All Day Primer // Jouer Matte Moisture Tint // Urban Decay All Nighter // Soap and Glory One Heck of a Blot // MAC Lustering Lipstick


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The Travel Edit

The secrets of Japanese skincare

The Secrets of Japanese Skincare Japanese culture has been life changing for us. Portable CD players and calculators, Nintendo and instant noodles, you’d be surprised at how many of our daily lives have been improved and enhanced by their inventions and discoveries. However, one aspect of our life that hasn’t been heavily influenced by Japan is our skincare and routine. Stay ahead of the trends by implementing the following tips into your routine before anyone else. Double Trouble Whilst double cleansing is a fairly new addition to Western skincare routines, it has been part of the Japanese skincare routine for years. Double cleansing is a two step method; firstly a product is used to remove the make up worn during the day, and followed up with a second, and different, product that focuses on the cleansing of the skin, washing away the built up dirt or grime that has built up underneath the make up. Cleansing oils, such as the highly coveted Shu Uemura and DHC versions, are the product of choice for the first cleanse. Cleansing oils dissolve make up easily without irritation, yet effectively maintaining the skin’s barrier function. As they are oils, they have a “slip” that ensures no tugging or pulling on the skin. The “slip” also means that it gets you into the routine of taking the time to massage the product into your skin, ensuring it works more effectively. After the make up has washed away, it’s now time to cleanse the skin properly. Usually the product is something like a foaming face wash. Unlike our Western offerings, Japanese foaming facial washes are sulphate-free and formulated not to cause any unnecessary friction with the skin. Japanese facial washes are hard to come by in the UK at the moment, however you can buy a foaming net at MUJI that you can use in conjunction with your existing facial cleanser. The best way to use a foaming facial wash, is to lather up the product either with your finger tips or a foaming net, and use the resulting foam to cleanse the skin. Result? Clean, happy skin that feels comfortable and not irritated.

Taking 20 minutes out to just lie back and relax can help you and your skin in more ways than one.

Slip on a Mask Treat Yo Skin You can use the gentlest products in the world, and yet still be putting your skin through hell and back. How so, you ask? By the way you apply those products! I’ve noticed how in our skincare routines, we slap on this, rub in that... ouch! The Japanese are so gentle in their approach to skincare; they use foaming nets to lather up foaming facial washes and they use cotton wool pads to apply lotions and essences. They incorporate a variety of facial massages in their routine to increase circulation, de-puff the skin and in turn improve skin texture. Just by incorporating a few of their gentle techniques into your routine, such as patting in moisturiser gently or taking an extra minute or two massaging your cleanser in to your skin, you’ll see results. You will only ever have one face, be nice to it. It’s Not Me, It’s You How many times have you blamed yourself for a product’s shortcomings? You’ve broken out in spots, yet it’s your fault. You’re not seeing improvements or results, so it must be your fault. Wrong. The Japanese beauty industry is so competitive, companies have to be on the ball. If word gets out a product doesn’t work, or it has caused problems, it could cost them big time. Japanese products are recalled and reformulated so often due to this demand, most on an annual basis, they are not labelled with expiry dates. If a product is continuing to cause you irritation and breakouts even after a month of usage, bin it. Look at the ingredients list, and take the time to look up exactly what each ingredient does and why it is in there. Keep a record of what your skin loves and what it doesn’t like. A product could cost £1 or £100, but if the ingredients are sub-par it will be your skin that pays the price.

The Japanese have a mask for everything; the usual suspects of the face and hair, but even those for lips, nails, and hands! Do not dismiss them as a novelty, embrace them. Sheet masks in particular are an easy way to inject moisture into dehydrated skin. A sheet mask is a thin, cotton sheet soaked in liquid. They tend to be in moisturising or hydrating formulas, and many boast ingredients such as vitamins and minerals to improve the skin. The light formulation of the serums used in sheet masks allow hydration to the deeper layers of skin, and not simply sitting on the top layer of skin. Sheet masks are also great at forcing you to relax as you can’t exactly run a marathon whilst wearing one. Stress can inflame the skin, leaving it blotchy and more susceptible to irritation. Taking 20 minutes out to just lie back and relax can help you and your skin in more ways than one. Want to start shopping your way to good skin? Check out our website for our top recommendations of Japanese skincare. WORDS: Daniella Josephine


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Why the taxing of sanitary items has to end. As it does every year, International Women’s Day came and went, throwing issues of gender inequality up in the air. This year though, the one that stuck with me for weeks after, is the fact that women across the world pay tax on tampons as a ‘luxury item’. Sorry, what? That’s right, governments around the world deem female sanitary items a luxury, and therefore, they are taxed as one. I’ll take this moment to remind you that mens razors, Jaffa Cakes, and crocodile meats are not taxed, but the tools you need for your period are. I’m sure I don’t need to tell you all the reasons that tampons most certainly shouldn’t fall into the ‘non essential’ category of modern purchases, but it seems as though it isn’t obvious to everyone. Namely, it seems, make dominated parliaments around the world, who would apparently rather the some 3.52 bullion women just bled everywhere seven days a month. As if it wasn’t bad enough that we have to pay for the damn things in the first place. A quick peruse of the Boots website tells me that I can treat myself to the luxury of 20 tampons for £2.90. That’s right, £2.90 for the privilege of not bleeding everywhere. Considering we are advised to remove tampons after 6 hours, that’s a whole five days, not even enough to cover the length of one period.

To put it in perspective for you, at the grand old age of 21, having had my period sine I was thirteen, I’ve spent over £540 on sanitary items. I could have bought a pair of Louboutins for that. Or 54 MAC eyeshadows. Hell, by the time I hit menopause, I probably could have bought every item in MAC. In all honesty, I find it baffling that because my uterus sheds it’s lining once a month, something I have absolutely no say in, I have to pay tax, rather than stuffing my underwear with half a roll of tissue paper. In the UK, condoms are dished out with gay abandon, with good reason, to help promote safe sex and reduce the spread of diseases. But people don’t have to have sex, yet women can’t help that they bleed, and so we have to pay the price. In 2011 the Kenyan government removed tax on the menstrual hygiene produces, in a bid to help improve living conditions, but unfortunately, this is a rarity, not the norm. This is where the Bloody Disgrace campaign comes in, launched by a group of girls as outraged as I about the situation, who are hoping to wake up our governments. Co-Founder Lauren Cook says,

“We are creating a global campaign and a global petition, directed at the United Nations, to raise awareness of this unfair tax in the hope of getting nations to act together to declare that menstrual hygiene products are essential goods.” Let us hope and pray that this campaign receives the attention it deserves, and that some day in the future, we’ll be spending £540 every 8 years on MAC products, not stuffing our vaginas. Head to bloodydisgrace.org to find out more, and sign the campaign to make sanitary items deemed essential.

Bloody disgrace

Bloody disgrace

BLOODY DISGRACE

The average women will have a period once a month for forty years. And in that time, they’ll pay over £1,500 in tax for the luxury of not bleeding on everything they love. What’s more, the price of sanitary items will only continue to rise, as they always do, and we will continue to have to buy them. And as the prices rise, we will shell out more on tax, just for having a vagina.


68

The Essays

Are beauty YouTuber’s damaging a teenage generation’s self esteem?

Are beauty YouTubers Damaging a Teenage Generation’s Self Esteem? Are beauty YouTubers damaging a teenage generation’s self esteem? As an only child, I once relied on magazines as a teenager to provide me with some guidance on make-up. Without the role of an older sibling or a mother who was fond of cosmetics, I remember trying to paint (or trowel on like cement) cheap make up products, leaving me resembling, what could only look like a clown. Nowadays, with the widespread use of social media and the high rising number of beauty ‘vloggers’ I wonder whether this could have a bigger impact on affecting young girls self esteem as make-up novices, or whether make up tutorials online are more of a help than a hindrance to achieving their idyllic look. Now, I don’t hang around with too many teenagers, as people may start to talk. However, I have managed to get in touch with my good friends younger siblings to ask them whether they rely on popular beauty ‘vloggers’ such as ‘Zoella’ - best known for her 7 million YouTube followers and her make-up hauls. When questioning 18 year old Dulcie - a full time student at sixth form, with a part time budget, there seemed to be a resounding feeling of resentment towards beauty ‘vloggers’ at first. I quote ‘people like Zoella can create an unrealistic beauty regime which nobody my age can really afford. I could never afford Mac makeup at the age of 16 and I cannot now. I get the feeling that most of the products, which are tried and tested - she is sent, so it’s very impractical. Hardly anybody my age could afford a make-up haul, so I just buy what is right for me and my budget.’

We all want the best, but it would be even better if vloggers were easy to relate to Then the tone of the conversation started to warm up. I questioned whether vloggers focusing on the application of make-up would be a better use of a video, rather than specifically looking at pricey brands and reviewing individual goods. Obviously, she said, ‘I enjoy watching the application of make-up rather than self-absorbed girls pretentiously waving Mac and Estee Lauder around in front of the camera. It makes me feel belittled, as though my drug-store brand isn’t of the same worth. However, these beauty enthusiasts do help to teach young girls the importance of a skin care regime - and the art of applying make-up subtly. At the start of my teenage years I would have idolised a beauty ‘vlogger’ to teach me the importance of taking my make-up off properly. I used to think a make-up wipe was an adequate technique for make-up removal, which cleansed my face from daily impurities - but now we all know wipes are for bums only! I took the time researching into beauty ‘vloggers’ on YouTube, who pinpoint a specific skin care regime they would apply after taking their make up off. It’s fair to say the products that one girl in particular, Lauren Curtis used came to a grand total of £127, which is extortionate for anybody who is in their teens or late twenties in education. The explicit

use of Michael Todd, Mac, Chanel and Clinque are enough to break the bank individually let alone to be used as a foursome. Nevertheless, these products might well be the best on the high street and we are seeking advice from real girls who have tried and tested these products with an impartial view. However, these vloggers are ultimately advertising an idealistic amalgamation of expensive products, and not something teens could or maybe would want to use. With this idea in mind, I really wonder whether this view is representative of many teenage girls in society. It has always been a constant challenge keeping up with the latest fad at school or college, from the latest handbag to a particular shoe trend. Now with added pressure highlighting the goods in your make-up bag, I wonder if beauty YouTubers are helping young girls with their makeup buys or whether these individuals are simply making teenagers feel inadequate if their favourite foundation is under £10. There is nothing wrong with lower end make-up brands, and this is a predominant theme I have found when talking to younger girls. We all want the best, but it would be even better if vloggers were easy to relate to – as their ‘to die for’ good looks teamed with expensive products, seems to denote that you have to spend to a copious amount of money to look your best.

WORDS: Carly Roberts


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71

What Am I Putting In My Body?

It seems as if everyone and their mothers are quick off the bat to vilify Parabens, the Internet is flooded with scare-mongering articles citing Parabens as a cause of several kinds of cancer. However, a quick Google search will tell you that, actually, opinions are mixed, and whilst some people prefer to avoid them altogether, a lot of others aren’t worried about them at all.

What are Parabens? Parabens are essentially preservatives, and have been used widely in cosmetics since the early 1950’s. They dramatically increase the shelf life of products from toothpaste to lipstick, killing off moulds and fungus before it has the chance to spread. It’s likely that over 80% of beauty products contain Parabens, since they’re inexpensive and effective.

What’s all the fuss about? Parabens are xenoestrogens, meaning they mimic the Estrogen when in the body. Disruption of the body’s natural Estrogen levels has been linked previously to both breast cancer and reproductive problems. What’s more, a 2004 British study found Parabens present in malignant breast tumours, leading many experts to recommend limiting your Paraben intake. However, the study did not look at healthy breast tissue to see whether Parabens were found there too, leading many to label the study unreliable. Since the presence of Parabens doesn’t prove that the Parabens caused the cancerous tumour, many physicians don’t warn patients off of them. Also, despite many governments limiting the use of Parabens within products to a certain percentage, if you’re using multiple products containing Parabens, you’re likely exceeding this recommended limit.

How do I know if my products contain Parabens? Almost all of your typical health and beauty products will contain Parabens, unless they’re specifically labelled as Paraben-free. The most commonly used Parabens in the beauty community are Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Polyparaben and Ethylparaben, their long names are pretty easy to spot within the ingredients list.

Should I be worried? Whilst understandably there is some cause for concern, right now there’s nothing to definitively suggest that Parabens are harmful to us. Even cosmetics giant Lush, who are renowned for using only the best ingredients aren’t worried about using Parabens. “We’re happy that these synthetic preservatives are absolutely safe,” they say, “Parabens have been subjected to such rigorous testing that experts now believe that they are safer than other synthetic alternatives.” Most dermatologists and pharmacologists are convinced we will have a safe Paraben alternative within the next decade, and a lot confirm that Parabens are much safer than their predecessor, Formaldehyde. For now at least, we are playing the waiting game, whilst science catches up.

Still worried? These brands are Paraben-free: Korres Revlon Aveda John Masters Organics Origins Josie Maran Physician’s Formula Burt’s Bees Dr. Hauschka

Parabens - what am I putting in my body?

Parabens - what am I putting in my body?

PARABENS


72

The Essays

STOP JUDGING MY BODY

Stop judging my body

Body positivity, seems to be the hot topic of the moment, with brands and magazines under scrutiny for every model choice and hint of Photoshop. Last summer saw the UK charts topped by a single repeating the mantra ‘every inch of you is perfect from the bottom to the top’, and we are finally starting to see the emergence of so called ‘plus sized’ models on the catwalks and in the pages of magazines. How great is that? And yet, something about it all doesn’t sit right with me. Aside from the obvious that most of these ‘plus sized’ models represent the national average, women who are a modest sized twelve and definitely not plus sized, and ‘normal’ sized models continue to teeter on their spindly legs in a way that doesn’t look healthy or representative of women. No, my problem with this constant body image discussion is simple; it’s not healthy.

The UK dieting industry is now worth over two billion pounds, the thought that us Brits are shelling out inordinate amounts of cash on a regular basis, purely to lose weight, is staggeringly upsetting. Because I’ve got news for you ladies, we all come in different shapes and sizes. Some of us are petite and dinky, whilst others are tall and broad. Some of us have curves, and others have a metabolism even they can’t keep up with. And that’s okay, in fact, it’s great, because who would want to all be the same? We can’t all look like Miranda Kerr, and the world would be a very boring place if we did. We shouldn’t be aspiring to look like runway models, or our favourite plus sized spokesperson, we should be aspiring to be healthy, and to stop judging other women by their size.

Do you remember the good old days, back in the 90’s, where we could scarf down six bags of Wotsits and wash it back with a pint of Sunny D without a single judgement? Last week a girl literally recoiled when I told her I’d never cooked quinoa (nor do I plan to).

Meghan Trainor’s number one bestseller, ‘All About That Bass’ caused our society to explode with messages of body positivity and acceptance, and it became a mantra for ‘bigger’ girls everywhere. But in that same song Trainor sang about how “boys they like a little more booty to hold at night” and how she “won’t be no stick-figure, silicone Barbie doll” and that’s hardly a message of acceptance, is it?

It’s not healthy to be skin and bones, it’s not healthy to be massively overweight, nor is it healthy for our society to fixate on weight and body image the way it does. Our goal shouldn’t be to be model sized, or curvy and happy, our goal should be to have healthy and happy bodies, what they look like is irrelevant.

My question is, why does it have to be one or the other? Why do we have to worship the, let’s face it, unhealthily photoshopped ideals of glossy magazines, or praise women with a bit more of a booty? Why can’t we just accept and love all women, no matter their size?

Now, I know this sounds strange coming from a beauty magazine, but there’s a difference between taking pride in your appearance, whether that’s with makeup or the way you dress, and fixating over the size of your body. Society’s morbid obsession with female weight and size is not only unnecessary, it’s unhealthy too.

So if you want to live off quinoa and bulgar wheat, be my guest, but if you want to eat a Krispy Kreme dozen all to yourself, that’s fine too. What matters is that you are healthy, and happy with your body, screw everyone else. Cause every inch of you is perfect from the bottom to the top.


74

If you don’t want to wear make-up and be a feminist, that’s fine by me. Just don’t tell me not to. As a child, I couldn’t fathom the idea of women wearing make-up ever being a bad thing. I loved watching my mum sweep pink across her cheeks or apply lipstick and was delighted when she let me wear the tiniest amount myself on special occasions. I had an ever growing collection of grotty nail polishes and lip glosses from I’d got free with pre-teen magazines or the pound shop which, whilst I now realise were hideously garish, I loved at the time. The point is I’ve always loved make-up and rarely thought of that as something problematic. The women in my life had always been strong and fiercely independent, so the idea that they could ever be considered inferior – for any reason – seemed ridiculous to me at a young age. But the older I got, the more I was exposed to the idea that wearing make-up could mean compliance with a male dominant culture valuing women for their beauty rather than their brains. I started to question whether wearing make-up gave of the right impression about me to other people. Indeed, many women feel that if they believe that all women should be treated equally – regardless of their appearance – they need to abstain from wearing make-up so as to reject the societal pressures women face to look a certain way. However, I knew I wasn’t wearing make-up for any reason other than to give myself a bit of a confidence boost for the day so ultimately quashed these thoughts and thought nothing of it. Yep that’s right, ladies: the idea that wearing make-up was an anti-feminist phenomenon didn’t faze me. To be honest until I started reading the work of Caitlin Moran and other modern feminist writers (which wasn’t until I was at least seventeen) I like many of my friends didn’t even think I was a feminist. This was due to the fact I wasn’t a head-

shaven, butch man-hater who thought penetration of women by men was evil – what the little exposure to feminism I’d had had taught me a feminist was. Of course I became less naive as I grew up and through my writing established my own stance on feminism, that women deserve the same freedom and rights as men (and vice versa!). However I still faced accusations on occasion that my wearing make-up was submitting to a male-dominant culture. What utter madness. Of course our appearance isn’t automatically linked to our values and beliefs. It’s not necessary to fit a stereotype depending on your perspective on certain issues. Wearing cosmetics will empower some women to feel like confident and strong members of society, but not others. Neither choice renders you weak. Feminism is all about having the freedom to choose; to choose the products you put on your face and the clothes you put on your back and not fear others’ judgement when you do so. And let me make one thing crystal clear – I don’t wear make-up because I think it’ll make every man I come into contact with that day a happy bunny, I do it for me. Earlier this year I addressed this issue in a blog post asking why it was so imperative that we chose between make-up and being a feminist and the response I got was overwhelming. Many young women, like me, had been on the receiving end of comments regarding their appearance and their stance on feminism. A few had experienced personal call-outs on specific things they had worn that meant they “couldn’t possibly” be a feminist because they were contradicting the very essence of feminism. My favourite response was that saying women can’t wear make-up and be feminists was like saying that water can’t be hot and also put out fire. When writing about this subject, 99% of the time I refer to one of my favourite analogies by beauty writer, Sali Hughes. Why does it go unquestioned when men show an interest in “classically male pursuits” (F1, football, drinking beer) but as soon as a woman wants to pretty herself up someone somewhere will call her out for being anti-feminist or debasing herself for man’s pleasure? If you’re genuinely interested in such “stereotypical” ideas, what is the problem? Nobody is inferior for enjoying experimenting with a good smokey eye or true red lipstick: just because I have boobs, a vagina and like to wear make-up doesn’t make me any less of a person than my male counterparts.

In all honesty I don’t think that personal grooming can be described as that feminine a pursuit anymore. The rise of metrosexuality and the importance that men, too, place upon looking and feeling good (and the increasing amount of time they spend in the bathroom getting ready) are evidence enough; it isn’t necessary to conduct indepth research to come to such a conclusion. You can barely flick through a few pages of a magazine or channels on your TV before seeing an advert dedicated to men’s cologne, razors that give the smoothest face post-shave, or even hair products for the older man wanting to maintain a full crop of hair. To summarise: men can be just as “airheaded” as we are when it comes to “gussying up”. Ultimately a woman’s value should have absolutely nothing to do with whether she goes bare-faced or full-faced on a Monday morning. As long as a woman has decided for herself whether she wears make-up, plays sport, drives to work, wears a suit, brings home the bacon etc, that’s what’s important – as I said earlier, what empowers one woman does not necessarily empower another. I wear makeup for me because it makes me feel a bit more confident in myself. All human beings, regardless of appearance, race, religion or gender are still just that and should be valued as equally as the next. I guess what I’m calling for is the end of making snap judgments of what people’s views are based on their appearance. Please do not presume that a woman who wears make-up is doing purely because of the expectations of men, or indeed to please them. I am optimistic that continuing to spread the message could eventually put things into perspective and change a few outlooks here and there. If you are fed up of feeling pressured to think that you’ve developed “stereotypical” or even “wrong” interests, do something about it! Stick to your guns and maybe one day we can get rid of the unspoken connection between lipstick and airhead-ism: you are far too important to feel you need to live up to the expectations of anybody else (preach). WORDS: Lucy Abbersteen

Yes, I wear makeup. Yes, I’m a feminist

Yes, I wear makeup. Yes, I’m a feminist

The Essays


76

The Essays

Why can’t we accept compliments? Most of us (me included) fall into the category of card carrying polite British women. Someone bumps into you? You apologise. Walk into an inanimate object? You apologise. We are, as a nation, trained in the art of politeness, and yet saying ‘thank you’ after receiving a compliment seems to be nearly impossible for the majority of us. We brush it off, we go red and say something selfdetrimental to detract from the attention, or we flat out deny the compliment as if it were an accusation. It’s not that we don’t like compliments, if someone tells me I look good that’ll stay with me for at least a week; it’s just that in the moment we don’t react well. “Research seems to show that women actually give more compliments than men so they are definitely good at giving them,” Hypnotherapist Sharon Stiles tells us, “People of high achievement who mix with other high achievers tend to compare themselves to that group and so their achievements may not appear as good to them.”

Why can’t we accept compliments

Who says we shouldn’t own our bodies, our achievements and who we are? “There can also be a cultural reaction to compliments” she tells us, “some cultures teach people to be self-effacing and so agreeing with praise can be considered boastful. This attitude tends to be more prevalent towards women.” And this makes sense, as women we are conditioned to love ourselves, to believe in ourselves but never admit it out loud. That would be seen as boasting, or arrogant. Society bombards us with mixed messages about how we should perceive ourselves, and how we should allow others to perceive us. Think about it, if you were out with friends and someone gave you a compliment, and someone else replied with a negative put down towards you, it would hurt, so why do we indulge in this selfdeprecating behaviour towards ourselves? Sharon explains that often, these behaviours stem from a school environment, where we prefer not to stand out, “there is safety in numbers, in being average,” she says. But ladies, we aren’t in high school anymore. The days of cliques and mean girls has, for the most part, passed, and we don’t have to blend into the crowd anymore. Who says we shouldn’t own our bodies, our achievements and who we are? Next time you receive a compliment, reply with a heartfelt thank you. Let’s try and spread a little more selfappreciation, shall we?


THE

WELLBEING EDIT


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81

DON’T KNOCK AVOCADO ON TOAST AS AN INSTAGRAM-FAD. Avocados are high

in vitamin E, Oleic Acid, Omega 3s and Phytosterols, all of which will keep your skin nourished and help fight signs of ageing. Chowing down on avocados at breakfast time will keep you full right through till lunch, make your skin look great, and give you the perfect Instagram snapshot. Add a handful of spinach to your lunchtime salad, spinach is a potent antioxidant, and super important for normal skin cell development, and healthy skin tones.

ADD SLICES OF LEMON AND ORANGE TO YOUR WATER, to help support liver detoxification and give your skin a radiance-boosting charge of Vitamin C.

SNACK ON ALMONDS AND HAZELNUTS, or sprinkle a little chilli powder on your snacks. All of these things are high in Vitamin E.

SWAP YOUR EARL GREY FOR GREEN TEA, not only is it great for digestion and metabolism, it also helps reduce fat accumulation in the liver, keeping it working in tip top condition.

4 easy ways to eat your way to better kin

4 easy ways to eat your way to better skin

4 EASY WAYS TO EAT YOUR WAY TO BETTER SKIN


The Wellbeing Edit

82 Protect yo’self

PROTECT YO’SELF

Don’t forget your lips

Sunburnt lips are dramatically worse than even the most chapped winter lips, so make sure to add a lip balm with SPF into your routine and your handbag this summer.

be cautious, even if it’s not hot The sun’s UV rays can be more powerful than you think, even if it’s relatively cool outside. As a general rule, if the sun is shining, you should be wearing SPF!

download a weather app

that shows the UV index. That way, you’ll know whether you need to slap on some sunscreen in the mornings. We particularly love the Yahoo one.

More than 100,000 people in the UK are diagnosed with skin cancer each year, and yet on the whole, us Brits seem to have a fairly slap dash attitude to sun protection. As a nation that sees the sun once in a blue moon, it’s all too common to see society stripping down to their bikinis as soon as temperatures top 15 degrees, and getting out in the sunshine, with very little regard for skin health. Experts have suggested that just one incident of severe sunburn before the age of twenty can double your chances of getting a malignant melanoma later on in life. “People forget that sun protection isn’t just something you need to think about on holiday,” says dermatologist Allie MacDonald, “sunburn can just as easily occur when you’re sat in your own garden, or when out and about in the day.” If you’re planning on catching some sun time this summer, make sure you’re following our top tips to stay protected.

WATERPROOF DOESN’T ALWAYS MEAN WATERPROOF Most ‘waterproof’ sunscreens are only sweat proof, not swim proof, and so if you’re getting in and out of the pool, make sure you’re frequently topping up your sunscreen.

THE SHADE ISN’T A SAFE ZONE A parasol, palm tree or other shady spot of choice doesn’t protect your from the rays reflected off of other surfaces. Likewise, the suns rays can easily penetrate water, so just because you’re practising your breaststroke, doesn’t make you safe either.

CHECK YOUR MEDS Apply your suncream naked.

Yes, yes, we know it sounds strange, but if you’re applying your sunscreen naked, you’re much less likely to miss patches, and end up with a sore, burnt sideboob.

Some drugs, and some herbal medicines too, can make your skin extra sensitive to the suns rays, and increase your risk of sunburn. Have a chat with your GP to find out if you could be at risk.

Don’t trust your foundation’s spf Yes it’s great that your new base love came with built in SPF, but using a standalone SPF first underneath is much more reliable.

Clinique Super City Sun Block SPF 40 // Sheseido Expert Sun Aging Protection Lotion SPF 50 // Kiko City Filter Sunscreen // Soap and Glory Make Yourself Youthful Superfluid Sunscreen // Piz Buin In Sun Protection Lip Balm SPF 20 // Vichy Soft Sheer Sunscreen Lotion SPF 60


84

The Wellbeing Edit

Can You Eat Yourself Pretty?

Can you eat yourself pretty?

We are often told we are what we eat, but how true is that when it comes to our skin? We all understand the links between food and health, food and size, but what about food and skin? When a breakout arises we are quick to slap the latest miracle creams on the problem areas, but are they doing the job? Are we just treating the symptoms instead of finding the solution? We are quick to jump on the bandwagon of the latest miracle potion, we think nothing of dropping our hard earned cash on the newest releases from our favourite skincare brands, or on a well deserved facial to perk up the skin, but should we be investing in a more long term solution? It’s no secret that what we eat has an effect on our skin; anyone who has ever suffered a post pizza breakout, or an alcohol-induced acne flare up will know this all too well. We know it, so why aren’t we taking action, and cutting out these problem foods? In fact, things like breakouts, wrinkles and even inflammatory conditions such as eczema can be very much influenced by our diet. All this can be attributed to the fact that what we eat has a direct effect on the organs regulate our skin. For example, if your diet is high in fructose, pesticides, caffeine and chemical additives, but low in vitamin c, amino acids and b vitamins, your liver will struggle to keep up with filtering all the toxins out of your body. This can lead to massive breakouts and rashes. In other words; ditch the coffee and sugary snacks, and reach for fresh juices and organic fruit and veg instead.

Specialist skin nutritionalist Zoe Palmer Wright says that a lot of our day to day skin concerns can be attributed to our diets. “Nobody is born with dry skin or oily skin, women don’t give birth and say, ‘ah, she’s got combination skin!’ What we eat shows up on our skin, and when we make healthy choices, our skin will just glow.” So what can we do to improve our diets, that will have a knock on effect on our skin? Cutting out dairy is a big one according to Zoe, ‘cow’s milk is full of hormones and additives that can cause severe acne, particularly in younger women or pregnant women, whose own hormones are imbalanced anyway. Cutting dairy from your diet, or at least cutting back is one of the very best things you can do for your skin.’ Another big problem for your skin can be a build up of yeast in the large intestine. We are familiar with things like fungal nail infections and thrush being a symptom of this, but a yeast build up can cause bloating, foggy headaches and itchy skin. If this sounds like you, Zoe recommends stepping away from breads and beers especially, and increasing your water consumption, to help flush out the toxins faster. Fear not, it’s not just about cutting out your favourite junk treats, it’s about upping your intake of wonder foods too. There are obvious dietary choices, according to Zoe, like upping your intake of vitamin C, that will help boost collaging production in your skin. It doesn’t have to be all oranges and lemons either, foods like kiwi, asparagus, and peppers are all excellent sources of vitamin C. And for a less obvious boost, try introducing cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower and kale, they will help boost the production of enzymes in your liver.

“The most important thing is that cliche of eating enough fruit and veg really. In an ideal world we’d be eating rainbow plates of 7-10 portions of fruit and veg daily!” says Zoe. “Avocado’s are amazing for your skin! They are really high in Vitamin E, Oleic Acid, and Omega 3s which are all amazing for your skin. Their combined effects will reduce redness in the skin, help reduce signs of ageing and make your skin softer, whether you eat them, or slather them on your face like a treatment mask.”

Zoe’s Super Skin Smoothie Recipe 1/2 a cucumber (including the skin if it’s organic) 1 banana 1/2 Frozen blueberries 1 cup of spinach 1 inch of ginger root. 1/2 bunch of parsley 1tbsp chia seeds 1 cup of water

So what does the perfect plate for flawless skin look like? In her cult favourite book, Eat Pretty: Nutrition For Beauty, Inside and Out, Jolene Hart, beauty and health coach identifies three main areas to concentrate on, Carbohydrates, Fats and Proteins. Doesn’t sound too tricky, does it? According to Jolene, the key is picking foods that are whole, vibrant and anti-inflammatory, such as organic vegetables and uncooked fats. Jolene’s favourite foods for a pretty face include celery, raspberries, nutmeg and red cabbage. Another sure fire way to clear up skin problems is juicing, according to Zoe, who also runs The London Detox, a company that specialises in juice detoxing. “By replacing solid foods with The London Detox juices and our supplement, your body will initiate a natural detoxification process – cleansing your system from the inside out. Juice fasting is the quickest, most effective and healthiest way I know of to re-set your body and mind, boost your health and feel energised whilst also providing rapid weight loss and the motivation to embrace a healthier lifestyle.” Juicing might be all the range on Pinterest right now, but it’s with good reason. “When you juice fruits and vegetables, you don’t lose any of the natural goodness at all, like you would with supermarket bought juices. Pick up your favourite organic fruits, stick them in a blender, and you’ll feel the benefits in your body, mind, and on your skin too.”


The Wellbeing Edit

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INGREDIENTS

WHAT ARE YOU PUTTING ON YOUR SKIN? Have you ever looked at the ingredients list of your favourite wonder cream, and wondered what on earth it all means? Don’t worry, we have too, and we’re on a mission to get the world clued up on skincare, so this issue we’re giving you the rundown on a few of the ingredients commonly gracing your bathroom cabinet. SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE (SLS) SLS’s are so common in skincare, largely because they’re inexpensive and effective. It’s an emulsifier, partly water and oil soluble, meaning it allows the two to mix. It’s most commonly used in shampoos, since it traps oil and grease within its structure, allowing the dirt to be washed away. It’s the product within your shampoo that forms thick rich foam, which allows for effective cleansing of the hair, from follicle to ends. It’s a well-known irritant, and during the manufacturing process a product ‘possibly carcinogenic to humans’ contaminates it. And if that’s not enough to put you off, the fact that it’s commonly found in industrial strength floor cleaner should do it. ABSORBIC ACID Absorbic Acid is a form of Vitamin C most commonly added into skincare products, and it’s the only form you should be using (other versions, such as ascorbyl palmitate aren’t doing anything for your skin, they’ve just been added so the product can boast Vitamin C content on it’s label). Vitamin C is a great ingredient in your skincare routine; it helps stimulate collagen production within the skin, making your complexion smoother, plumper, and less wrinkly. LACTIC ACID One of the most powerful AHAs (alpha hydroxyl acids) available in skincare, AHA’s are acids derived from fruits, and are safe to apply to the skin. Lactic Acid is fantastic for busting breakouts, and is an ideal ingredient for anyone looking to fight acne. It’s also gained a reputation for improving the texture

of the skin, helping with dry or rough patches and removing dead skin cells. It’s worth keeping in mind that Lactic Acid increases the skin’s sensitivity to UV rays after use, so make sure you’re following up with a strong SPF. ALOE BARBADENSIS The technical term for simple Aloe Vera. Aloe Vera is incredible for the skin, packed with healing and soothing properties, you can use it on everything from sunburn to eczema. You’ll likely find it in lip balms, body moisturisers, and even some hair care products, since it helps add strength and shine. PHTHALATES Phthalates are particularly nasty, and one to definitely avoid where possible. These chemicles are known to disrupt hormones, and have been linked to a whole world of horrible things, from birth defects, to asthma, to cancer. They can be found in tons of products, most commonly fragranced body products, nail polishes and some makeup too. Some forms are banned from cosmetic use within the EU, however they can still be used in perfumes, so make sure you check the labels of your favourite scents. RETINOL A Vitamin A based wonder product, Retinols essentially speed up the cell turnover in your skin, getting rid of dead skin cells and promoting collagen production and circulation. This stuff is fantastic for anyone looking to get a more youthful look to the complexion. It’s best applied at night, but not everyone’s skin can handle retinol, so be wary upon application, and if it causes irritation that doesn’t subside after a few days, stop using it.


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HOW-TO’S


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The How-Tos

3 top summer eye shadow trends

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top summer eye shadow trends WORDS: Alina Isaev

Alina Isaev, blogger at The Fairytale Pretty Picture (fairytaleprettypicture.co.uk), writes about Fashion, Beauty and Lifestyle. Judge at the UK Blog Awards and winner in the Cosmopolitan Blog Awards 2014.

1 Are you Naked?

We all know about the Naked palettes and we never get bored of them. There’s something about the simple natural look that always appealing and the soft beige shades and fawn brown hues create exactly that. The summer is all about natural beauty, so learn to accentuate the features you already have.


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Section Title

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Food for your face

Add The Flick

It’s feminine; it’s striking. There’s plenty that can be done with an eyeliner flick to create impact and complete that flirty summer look. Draw a subtle flick for casual days out or create a complete contrast to turn heads. So, grab an eye liner and experiment with the flick lengths to see what impact you can create!

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FOOD FOR YOUR FACE In the interest of good skin, we are heading into the kitchen and rounding up the very best skincare treatments you can make using fresh ingredients from your fridge! Say goodbye to chemicals and preservatives, and hello to face masks you’ll want to lick straight off your skin!

• Blended papaya is a natural exfoliant, high in enzymes that eat away at dead skin cells. Apply half a papaya that’s been blitzed in a blender to your skin and leave on like a mask for 10-15 minutes for radiant, glowy skin. A much less aggressive alternative to your traditional face scrub. • If you’re feeling stressed or run down, mix half a mashed avocado, 1 tbsp of aloe vera gel and a handful of oats for a soothing and nourishing face mask. • Before going wild with your favourite matte lipstick, add a few drops of Vanilla Essence to a tablespoon of of brown sugar and a teaspoon of honey for a delicious lip scrub you can lick off. Soft, delicious lips! • For a chocolatey anti-aging treat try mixing up cocoa powder, honey, plain yoghurt and oatmeal powder, and letting it work it’s magic on your skin. This one you’ll definitely want to lick off!

Pretty Pastels Prevail

These soft, soothing shades, such as pastel pinks, baby blues and energising citrus, are here to stay. They make the perfect finished look for warm, bright days, so feel your eyes flirting whilst you’re basking in the sun. Be sure to try out a playful look this summer that combines two or three of these pastel shades together.

• If dark circles are one of your biggest problems, try mixing Tumeric with fresh lemon juice to form a thick paste. Apply this as a mask to your undereye area, being careful not to get too close to the eye, and allow it to sit for 15 minutes before washing off. • To help fight uneven complexion, make your own gentle face scrub using mashed strawberries, granulated cane sugar and a healthy dose of almond oil! This one is definitely the tastiest!

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BEAUTY COUNTER EXPERIENCE You’re not alone if you find beauty consultants on counters imposing, I worked on counters for years and even I still find it intimidating sometimes. But shopping for makeup should be a fun, exciting activity, not something we approach with apprehension, and leave feeling like we’ve been forced into parting with our hard earned pennies for products we don’t love. Unfortunately, for every great beauty consultant, there’s another who thinks she’s the bee’s knees, and better than everyone she comes across. These are the kind of women who ruin it for everyone, because it is possible to have a fantastic time at a counter. We are all inclined to feel vulnerable when approaching a high-end counter. We’re faced with an army of women made up within an inch of their lives, with expertise and an imposing pair of heels. That’s not their fault, 99% of counters have a dress, makeup and hair code, and whether they mean to or not, the power outfits and doll-face makeup are an imposing sight to be met with. Also, we approach these counters knowing that within seconds of introductions, these women will be scrutinising our faces. It’s their job, it’s what we are there for them to do, but it’s still an intimidating thought. Unfortunately, for every great beauty consultant, there’s another who thinks she’s the bee’s knees, and better than everyone she comes across. These are the kind of women who ruin it for everyone, because it is possible to have a fantastic time at a counter.

Ask to be added to my customer list.

It’s a little known fact that counter assistants have targets to reach for customer sign ups, as well as sales targets, and if anything, these are harder to hit. If you tell me you want to be added to my customer list, not only are you going to be the first to know about deals and gifts, I’m probably going to treat you like a Princess. All beauty consultants are after one thing, a regular client base, and if I think you’re going to be part of that, I’ll shower you in free samples, mini facials and makeovers.

Let me know you know your stuff.

A lot of a beauty consultant’s power comes from being the ‘expert’ in the exchange. If I think you know very little about beauty, I’ll try and upsell to you, because, hey, I have targets to hit. But, if you tell me you’re looking for a new mascara because you love the volume of Chanel’s but it smudges on you, I’ll know upselling will be harder because you’ve got some knowledge. Equally, if you walk up and tell me you want some samples for your holiday, I’ll tell you I’m out, but if you tell me you’re interested in our new foundation, but you’re wondering how it will compare to your NARS Sheer Glow, I’ll happily dish you out a sample.

Carry a good bag

As shallow as it sounds, if I see you’re carrying a nice bag, or you take good care of your appearance, I’ll probably be nicer to you, because you’re more likely to spend money with me.

Don’t be afraid to walk away.

If a member of counter staff is rude, is pressuring you, or is making you feel uncomfortable, it’s okay to leave. It’s okay to get up and walk out. Bad service shouldn’t be rewarded with commission. Take your sale elsewhere.

Acknowledge good service, and complain if it’s rubbish.

Companies want your feedback, if you visit a counter and have a horrible visit, let them know. They don’t want people on their counters who have negative attitudes towards customers; it doesn’t make good business sense. Don’t forget to let them know if you’ve had a great experience too, not only will the positive feedback make it back to your awesome sales person, but also some brands reward sales staff if someone praises them! I’ll be even more pleased to see you next time you run out of mascara if that happens!

If you tell me you want to be added to my customer list, not only are you going to be the first to know about deals and gifts, I’m probably going to treat you like a Princess.

How to get the most out of your beauty counter experience

How to Get the Most Out of Your


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The How-To’s

It happens to the best of us, whether you accidentally fall asleep with wet hair, or just straight up forget to wash it, never fear, we are on hand to help out with your hair-care woes.

WHEN YOU’RE HAIR’S JUST LOOKING FLAT.

A common problem for a lot of us, if you hair isn’t playing the volume game, fake it. Take a backcomb brush to add lift right at the roots, and use a texturising spray like the Tresemme Perfectly Undone Dry Defining Spray, to give the lengths some movement.

WHEN THE RAIN’S COMING DOWN.

FIrst things first, avoid using hairspray, hairspray + rain = sticky, crunchy hair, not a good look. Instead protect your hair as much as you can, and carry something like the Bumble and Bumble Texture Undressing Creme, which will smooth the hair whilst adding hold.

WHEN YOUR HAIR DESPERATELY NEEDS A TRIM.

HELP I’M HAVING A BAD HAIR DAY

Sometimes split ends look a bit more obvious than you’d like. In this case you’ll want something like the Morocan Oil Light, just a few drops massaged into the ends of the hair, helps add a little more moisture back in, without making your haiir overly oily or greasy.

WHEN YOU SHOULD HAVE WASHED YOUR HAIR.

We’re all guilty of doing this every now and then but sometimes a lay in is much more appealing than a pre-work shower. Whether it’s your whole head or just your fringe, the CoLab Dry Shampoo in Rio is your new best friend. A lightweight dry shampoo with none of that tell take white cast.

WHEN HUMIDITY STRIKES.

A curly haired girls worst nightmare, just a hint of humidity can leave you wishing you’d stayed home. If you’re expecting humidity, prep your hair with the VO5 Strong Goodness Shine and Fragrance Spray. Spritz this into the lengths of your hair for glossy, shiny, healthy looking locks, that smell amazing too!

AND WHEN THERE’S JUST NO SAVING IT.

Whether you fell asleep on damp locks and woke up with an untameable mane, or your hair’s just not playing ball, braid it. Braids are having a real moment right now, and there’s just so many different ways to go, you’re guaranteed to find something that suits you! And, it’s a great way to justify a lunch break spent on Pinterest!


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The trademark Winehouse winged liner look does not suit everyone, even if we would like it to. Never fear, we have rounded up the best liner looks to suit you, no matter what your eye shape. ROUND EYES: Probably the easiest eye shape to identify, if your peepers are rounded then thin winged liner is the one for you. Go for a gel or liquid liner and concentrate the product on the outer edges of your lash line, creating a long wing pointing from the outer corner of your eye to the end of your eye brow. LITTLE EYES: If your eyes are proportionally smaller that your other features then you’ll want to stick to a think liner along your upper lash line and the outer corner of your lower lashes. Steer clear of anything in your waterline, it’ll only make your eyes look smaller! BIG EYES: As with little eyes, you’ll know if your eyes are big if they are dramatically larger than your other features! This is one of the more versatile eye shapes, you get to play around a lot with more liner styles! You can line your upper and lower waterlines and your eye won’t look small, and a winged liner will look great on you too! Try smudging a long lasting pencil, like the L’Oreal Super Liner Pencil, along your lover lash line for a lived-in-liner look.

ALMOND EYES: Lucky ladies out there with almost eyes can go wile with winged liner to their hearts content. The bigger your eyes, the bigger the flick, go nuts! Make sure that wind is pointing towards the end of your eyebrow, and use a thin nabbed liquid liner like the Pixi Lash Line Ink to get a precise, even flick. CLOSE SET EYES: If you can’t fit three fingers in between your eyes then this is you! Focusing your liner on the outer corners of your lash line will help make you eye look wider, try making your eye liner thicker on the outer corners, and extending the liner just past the outer corner. WIDE SET EYES: If your eyes are wider than three fingers apart, then play with bringing colour past the inner corners of your eyes. A powder liner like the L’Oreal Sokissme Liners bought just under the tear duct can help make your eyes look that little bit closer together. DEEP SET EYES: If when your eyes are open you can’t see your eyelids, then this is you! Liner isn’t going to be your best friend, but the best way to make it work for you is to keep it thin and as close to the lash line as possible!

Put down the contour

LINER FOR EVERY EYE SHAPE

DOWN

Liner for every eye shape

PUT

Contouring is undeniably the beauty trend of 2015, made famous by the likes of Kim Kardashian and her flawlessly chiselled cheekbones on Instagram. The beauty technique of using highlighters and contour powders to create dimension to the face has swept the nation, and now a quick search of Pinterest will return thousands of tutorials on how to create that perfect contoured look.

THE CONTOUR

There’s no denying the incredible amount of skill it takes to contour like a pro, a talented makeup artist can create cheekbones out of nowhere, make a nose appear smaller, and a whole face slimmer. But makeup isn’t supposed to be used to change your face entirely, but rather enhance it. At what point does following the trend cause to lose our individuality, do we all want our faces to look the same? As users and lovers of makeup, our main goal should be to enhance our own natural beauty, sure we may want to conceal a few blemishes, or add a little warmth to the skin, but changing the look of your face entirely? I’m not suggesting that we burn our highlighters and contour powders, but is it necessary to go all out every day? None of us look just like Kim Kardashian, so why should we spend thirty minutes every morning trying to? Our suggestion? Put down the contour kit, and go for something a little more natural. Pick out a blush with some gentle shimmer, or a cooler toned matte bronzer. By all means add some definition, but don’t attempt to change your face, you’re beautiful as you are.


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The How-To’s

THE FINAL FIVE MINUTES

The final five minutes

With With Brittany Messner of Life Set Sail

What are you most excited about for summer? Since my husband and I are taking some time away from conventional jobs this Summer I look forward to putting everything I have into my blog and going full time! I can’t wait to see what good things come of this new adventure!

What do you aim to achieve with your makeup throughout the warmer months? Glowing, dewy, youthful skin that makes everyone else jealous!

Are there any makeup trends you’re keen to try this summer? I’ve been seeing a lot of graphic liner in bold hues on the runways this year and cannot wait to try it for myself! From any colour imaginable to the stark white we saw at Nanette Lepore, there’s only one rule to follow…no black allowed.

What is your go to summer base? NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer, hands down.

Bright summer lip or a golden eye look? I love both but realistically I’d have to go with the golden eye look. Not only does the shade bring out my baby blues but, unlike a bright lip, it requires zero maintenance.

Must have summer makeup products? Make Up For Ever Sculpting Duo, NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer, Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge in Juicy Melons, Dior Lip Glow, Essie Nail Polish in Tarte Deco.

What is your number one summer beauty picks? Unite Texturiza Spray Dry Finishing for an instant boost of texture and volume to limp locks. Any product that allows me to skip washing is A-OK in my books! You can find more from Brittany at lifesetsail.com


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WITH THANKS TO

ILLUSTRATIONS Mark Thomas Alison Soye Megan MRSCM Illustration Roisin Swales

GRAPHICS Sara Foley Leese Johnstone

CONTRIBUTORS Lucy Abbersteen Alina Isaev Sali Jones Danniella Josephine Carly Roberts

& ALSO‌ Tenneil Almark Liz Atkin Lucy Brooker Lucy Dixon Brittany Messner Daphne Shen Sharon Stiles Rebecca Warriner Alice Williams Getty Images iStock Photo


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FOUNDATION MAGAZINE Issue One, May 2015

www.foundationmagazine.wordpress.com


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