DRESSING THE ABBEY

With over 120 million viewers around the world, Downton Abbey is the most popular series in the history of British television. With the Bay’s love of traditions, and with the continued support of a global fanbase, The History Museum of Mobile is proud to present Dressing the Abbey. Opening on January 28th, fans will have the opportunity to participate in a plethora of incredible events and view some of the extraordinary, and award winning, costumes from the hit series coming to our shores from England. Museum Director, Meg McCrummen Fowler, and her talented team also curated local treasures from their impressive archives to share a tale of two cities during a significant time in history entrenched in change.

By Hayley Hill

The Downton Abbey television series progressed through the sinking of the Titanic in 1912 to the dawn of the Jazz Age in the 1920s. Boasting thirty-five costumes worn by cast members, viewers of Dressing the Abbey will discover the turbulence of the Edwardian era and the impact of the First World War. From rich country tweeds and beautiful evening gowns to a starched footman’s livery and seemingly restrictive maids wear, the costumes in this exhibition speak loudly to a transformational time in world history.

Expanding, Meg shares, “This wardrobe travels to us originally from England, where the London costume house, Cosprop, has won awards for their extraordinary work on these very textiles. One of our favorite costumes was worn by Cora, Countess of Grantham, as she accompanied Lady Rose to her Court presentation before the King and Queen of England. It’s a lilac, velvet, drop-waist dress with original lace and beadwork from the 1920s. There’s a sunburst pattern at the front and a simple train at the back. The London ceremony was one of the most formal in the Royal calendar with an exceptionally strict dress code, published by Lord Chamberlain. For example, presenters like her had to wear a headdress of exactly three, white Prince-of-Wales feathers attached to a tulle veil. The form, color, and measurements of dress would have been strictly stipulated, too.”

Eager to see Anna’s maid costume and the intricate lace details, we wonder about the family matriarch. “The mourning dress worn by the Dowager Countess of Grantham (played by Maggie Smith) is a telling costume. It’s a purple day dress, which was appropriate for what was called “half-mourning.” When family members died, as Dowager’s did on the Titantic, an initial period of mourning in black was observed. There were very strict rules concerning how long this period was to last, based on one’s relationship to the deceased. After full mourning came half-mourning, when purple, lilac, or gray could be worn. Such stringent rituals helped define the grief process and signaled where the wearer was in the process,” Meg informs us.

Connecting more history to fashion, Meg explains, “In Europe especially, World War I wrought enormous changes to society. Women – even aristocratic ones like Lady Edith – had to step into the workforce, undertaking jobs previously done by men. Almost a million British soldiers died in battle, forever changing the nation. Profound economic, industrial, and class changes were underway, too, which spelled the end of many British estates in the aftermath of the war (and threatened Downton in season three). “

Impacting those from all classes, women continued to work and even made history securing the right to vote throughout the 1920s. “As social rules began to relax – so did hemlines and waistlines! Some of the dresses worn by Lady Edith exemplify the “boyish look” that just preceded the Flapper style, with a dropped waist, raised hem, and flattened bust. Lady Rose, the youngest lady of the household, adopts new styles with gusto, and some of the relaxed behaviors of the 1920s flapper – behaviors still outside the bounds of acceptable norms to the aristocratic Crawley family. All this to say, fashion and culture are tightly intertwined. The relaxed norms of the 1920s produced a relaxed fashion, and these new styles reinforced new social standards and even helped create and expand such standards,” Meg explains. With many more costumes to reveal, and a calendar full of all things Downton Abbey, we’re all invited to meet Susannah Buxton, costume designer for seasons 1 and 2 of Downton Abbey, via a live Zoom on March 8th. “Our monthly Learning Lunch series is free to the public and held at noon in the History Museum’s auditorium. She’ll be talking about all aspects of designing the costumes included in the exhibition as well as the extraordinary craftmanship that highlights the designer’s particular attention to the behaviors of various textiles, historical methods of handiwork, and the socio-cultural implications of style choices,” Meg tells us.

As for the prep work? “Long before an exhibit arrives, much work goes into preparing our gallery space. Taylor Lawhon Cox, our Curator of Exhibitions, has designed a beautiful space to create a sumptuous experience that complements the textiles without competing with or obscuring their craftsmanship. For this exhibition, we have chosen to create miniature ‘sets’ or rooms that evoke the various spaces of an English home with locally-sourced antiques!” Meg elaborates.

With a collection of its own, the Museum is curating a complementary exhibition, Dressing Mobile: 1920s Fashion in the Port City. Running simultaneously, it will feature the transformation of Mobile society and culture from 1890 to 1930. “We protect and preserve over 117,000 objects. A team of specially-trained collections and conservation specialists work year-round to manage and interpret this collection. Our artifacts range in age from 20,000 years old to modern, and each one is a piece of Mobile’s story. We hold these objects in trust from the city and citizens of Mobile, and for the future generations that will continue to study and learn from this collection,” Meg informs.

As for a local highlight? “From 1845 to 1855, more than a million Germans fled to the United States to escape economic hardship and political unrest. Many ended up in Mobile. Matilda Strouse was born to Jewish German immigrants in Greensboro, Alabama in 1855. Landing in Mobile, Matilda attended Barton Academy and married Leopold Hammel. Together they opened the impressive four-story luxurious Hammel’s department store on Royal Street. Matilda’s dress collection was quite impressive! A number of the dresses in this exhibition come from the Hammel Collection from the early 1900s that belonged to Matilda and her daughter Viola (Mrs. Arthur Eppstein). This spectacular collection of over 50 pieces of clothing was donated to the museum by family members in 1980, and ranges from Edwardian dresses with demure pin tucks and lacy embroidery to 1920s flapper dresses dripping with beads and ostrich plumes,” Meg beams.

Curious about Mobile society during that time frame, Meg adds, “The Battle House Hotel was built in this period, after a fire destroyed the original Battle House in 1905. It was known as “Mobile’s Living Room” and quickly became an icon of history and hospitality. Mobile was growing in this era, and the Battle House hosted many of Mobile’s lavish balls, banquets, and receptions in its early years. During the First World War, social events and organizations supported the war efforts within its walls, and by the 1920s, it was a center for lush parties and celebrations, particularly during the Carnival season.”

A local gem, The History Museum of Mobile has hosted some extraordinary exhibitions from around the globe that include an exhibition on ancient Rome in 2020 that travelled from Florence, Italy, as did “Egyptian Mummies and Eternal Life” in 2021. This past year, “The Vikings Begin” traveled from Sweden, making its final stop in Mobile. More than exhibits to Meg, she explains, “Each of these has built upon the success of the previous, and each of these exhibitions has presented Mobilians with rare and special opportunities to view exciting history. Dressing the Abbey is the next extraordinary exhibition to travel to Mobile, and the History Museum of Mobile is so proud to give the community the opportunity to have a world-class experience in our own hometown.”

With so many memorable lines like “What is a ‘weekend?” and “No guest should be admitted without the date of their departure settled.” to the beautifully filmed English estate and countryside, the opportunity to personally interact with many of its costumes will ensure the keeping of a well-loved story.

DRESSING THE ABBEY EVENTS:

SCOTTISH SPIRITS & SMOKES

SATURDAY, JAN. 28TH

6:00 PM - 9:00 PM

Colonial Fort Conde

Enjoy an exciting evening of cocktails and cigars! Featuring cocktails from The Official Downton Abbey Cocktail Book, guests will experience a Scottishthemed outdoor event, complete with tartan, a bagpipe player, fire pits, and local glass artists from Muffinjaw Designs will demonstrate how cocktail glasses are blown. Samples will be available for purchase and guests can revel in an exclusive, after-hours viewing of the exhibition on opening day.

JAZZ BRUNCH RECEPTION & BALLROOM DANCING CLASS

SUNDAY, FEB. 5TH

10:00 AM - 12:00 PM (Brunch)

1:00 - 3:00 PM (Ballroom Class)

History Museum of Mobile

Live jazz music from Mobile Big Band Society, a brunch buffet from A Gathering Place, a Bloody Mary bar, and mimosas —a signature Downton Abbey cocktail! Encouraged to don 1920s fashion, guests will visit the exhibition and experience Downton fun in flapper style followed by swing and ballroom dancing with the talented instructor, Andrea Orton!

1920s COCKTAIL CLASS with Master Mixologist, TYLER SAYERS

WEDNESDAY, MARCH 8TH

6:00 PM - 9:00 PM

Cedar Street Social Club

If you love cocktails, you’re in for a treat. Master Mixologist, and Manager at local favorite craft cocktail and wine bar, POST, Tyler Sayers starts the evening with a celebratory shot, followed by a fun and engaging course in cocktail mixing magic. Guests will be provided with all the essentials needed to make three delicious cocktails - straight from The Official Downton Abbey Cocktail Book. Be sure to wear your best 1920s fashion.

HIGH TEA

SUNDAY, MARCH 12TH & SUNDAY, MARCH 26TH

2:00 PM - 4:00 PM

History Museum of Mobile

Experience the English custom and tradition of afternoon high tea at the History Museum of Mobile. Dress in your loveliest Sunday or 1920s attire and indulge in tea and conversation! Sandwiches, pastries, and treats will accompany the tea service and guests will browse the accompanying exhibitions.

EASTER FLORAL DESIGN CLASS feat. THE SHADE TREE

THURSDAY, APRIL 6TH

6:00 PM - 8:00 PM

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HistoryMuseumofMobile.com

History Museum of Mobile

Create a lush centerpiece and learn about floral and table design with expert florist, Glen Jenkins, owner of local design studio, The Shade Tree. Just in time for your Easter table, Glen will guide guests through the creation of a floral masterpiece! The class includes table design tips and tricks, china and linen selections, and more. Tour the exhibit and celebrate all things Downton Abbey, including one of the most widely-celebrated aspects of fine dining culture — a beautifully-set table, Downton style!