2022 Alpine Visitors Guide

Page 1

Visit

BIG

BEND T E X A S


WELCOME to the

BIG BEND

W

e’re so glad you’re here in the Big Bend, whether you’re a visitor, a newcomer, or a long-time resident, and we’ve aimed our Visit Big Bend Welcome Guide at all of you. If you’re a visitor, you’ll want to make the most of your time here. Newcomers can learn all about the area before venturing out. And long-time residents might find new places to explore. Everything from hikes, to scenic drives, to bird and wildlife watching, to stargazing, to just plain relaxing is offered, so you’re sure to find lots to add to your list of things to do in the Big Bend. And be sure to check out the Just Ahead app for iPhone and Android that will guide you through our area with maps and detailed directions – no wifi or phone connection needed.

Cover photo, “Mule Ears in Big Bend National Park,” by Kara Gerbert All photos by Gail Diane Yovanovich unless otherwise noted.

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2022 Visitors Guide

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YEARS


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2022 Visitors Guide


Greetings

Panther Junction Visitor Center at Big Bend National Park.

FROM BREWSTER COUNTY TOURISM AND VISIT BIG BEND!

Here are just a few of the exciting things to do in Brewster County. MAR ATHON, TEX AS – The second largest town in Brewster County is located 26 miles southeast of Alpine. It plays host to the historic Gage Hotel. If you’re into birding and picnics, and longing for the sight of water, Post Park is the place for you. Located five miles south of town, it was the site of Fort Pena Colorado, an army outpost from 1879-1896.

Welcome to the

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YOUR stop in the Big Bend

900 E. Avenue E Alpine Texas 6

2022 Visitors Guide

Marathon also offers a grocery store, as well as several art galleries and quaint shops for those needing their shopping fix. BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK – The crown jewel of Brewster County, the park boasts mountain woodlands, desert lowlands, and a riparian habitat that stretches 118 miles along the Rio Grande. Hosting the only mountain range located completely within a national park, the Chisos Basin offers lodging at the Chisos Mountain Lodge, dining, souvenirs, and some of the most outstanding hikes in the country. The Window Trail is something to behold at sunset. If you’re up and about before sunrise, the 1,500-foot cliffs carved out of the desert landscape at Santa Elena Canyon are a sight to behold. Big Bend National Park is also home to the largest diversity of species in the country, both plants and animals. The park also offers two stores with fuel, water, and snacks - one at Rio Grande Village and the other just beyond the visitor’s center at Panther Junction. STUDY BUTTE – At the junction of Texas Highway 118 and FM 170, Study Butte offers everything essential to trekking through the desert. If you’re looking for adventure, several outfitters offer jeep tours, river trips, or horseback riding. TERLINGUA – Best known for the International Chili Cook-Off held every year in November, the Terlingua Ghost Town is nowhere near a ghost town! The town was founded as a quicksilver mining establishment in 1903, but now boasts lodging, dining, shopping, and the best kept secret in the Big Bend - the view from the porch. The high desert is the place for mountain biking and other activities, including guided hikes and bike and river tours. LAJITAS – Situated between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, Lajitas is home to the Lajitas Golf Resort. Boasting one of the top five championship golf courses according to the Dallas Morning News, these links offer breathtaking vistas seen nowhere else. Lajitas also has a general store with snacks, drinks, and fuel.


Welcome to the FOOD OF FAR WEST TEXAS BY KARA GERBERT

Head over Meals

S

o, you’ve hiked that hike and visited that village. Now it’s time to vanquish your hunger, and where better to do that than in the Big Bend. Our cuisine is as unique as our people and places, and doesn’t disappoint. Beef is a big part of dining in the Big Bend, and finding that perfectperfect ly crusted chicken fried steak, or that juicy burger topped with bacon and a fried egg, if it contains beef it’s going to be a winner. We certainly don’t want to leave out our barbecue folks. There is some brisket in the Big Coun Bend that will give those Hill Country folks a run for their money. These pit

masters don’t leave out the fowl either. Those folks can smoke a bird fast faster than they can migrate. Speaking of migrating, we offer wild game specialties on our menus that will tease your palate and bring you back for more. I’m talking about perfectly cooked bison, delicately prepared quail, and perfectly fried antelope just to name a few. Being neighbors with Mexico, their authentic food has migrated across the border to give us some of the best Mexican food to be found. Whether you’re looking for that perfectly seasoned bowl of beans, that cheesy fried chile relleno, or

that perfect bowl of chile macho or pico de gallo, we have it. Our enchila enchiladas, picadillo, and asado are on point as well, and never forget we celebrate taco Tuesdays with the best of them here in the Big Bend. Now that you’ve sampled that Mexican combination plate, savored that chef-pre chef-prepared steak, and even relished that made to order sandwich, you are asking yourself what took you so long to visit this mecca of West Texas dining. The Big Bend is small on population, but we are big on flavor, and have something to suit even the finickiest palate. So, do yourself a favor and enjoy some of the best dining West of the Pecos. Y’all come back now!

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SEE A FLYING DINOSAUR AT BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

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ig Bend National Park’s new Fossil Discovery Exhibit opened last year, and showcases the park’s nearly complete fossil record spanning 130 million years. The exhibit is housed in a stand-alone facility located at the site of the older fossil bone exhibit, 18 miles south of Persimmon Gap Visitor Center on U.S Highway 385. It has a covered picnic area and restrooms. The unique architecture helps the structure blend into the landscape, and the structure is solar powered and self-sustaining. The displays represent four time periods of the park’s geologic history. One section includes fossils from the oldest period when the area was covered by a sea.

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2022 Visitors Guide


The Fossil Discovery Exhibit in Big Bend National Park shows how dinosaurs lived and interacted.

Another section includes the fossil record from when the sea receded, leaving a coastline environment in its place. Later, that same area morphed into a swampy, inland floodplain. And later still, it transitioned into an extinction period that led to the rise of mammals. All these time periods are represented by fossils found at the site and in other areas of the park, including a full-size replica of a flying pterosaur, a species of Quetzalcoatlus found in the park. The exhibit includes fossil replicas of a Crocodilia skull from 83.5 million years ago, and several other large skulls that are kid-friendly—touching and playing on some of the exhibits is allowed. The more fragile displays are behind thick glass, such as a replica of Bravoceratops, a specimen discovered four years ago in the park. The exhibit is the biggest addition to the park in over 50 years, and is a destination in itself.

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POPULAR BIRDING SPOTS IN THE

BIG

BEND BY GAIL DIANE YOVANOVICH

Managing Editor

Lots of folks come to the Big Bend to find local resident birds, interesting migrants, and perhaps a rarity or two. Here are some popular and easy-to-access sites where you can raise binoculars and perhaps add some species to your checklists. An internet search on any one of these will provide directions, access details, and in most cases, bird lists. • Davis Mountains State Park in Jeff Davis County • Lawrence E. Wood picnic area in Jeff Davis County • Rio Grande Village in Big Bend National Park

• Kokernot Park in Alpine • Post Park in Marathon • Boot Springs in Big Bend National Park • Sam Nail Ranch in Big Bend National Park

• Dugout Wells in Big Bend National Park • Gage Gardens in Marathon • Fort Leaton State Historical Site in Presidio County

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NATURE WALKS at CDRI The Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center offers twice-monthly Saturday bird walks. The walks are open to all birders, and to those who are interested in learning about birding. The 2.5-3 hour hikes explore along various Nature Center hiking trails, the botanical garden, the new bird blind and water feature, and around the visitor center. Mindful Monday Morning Walks are offered weekly at 9:30 a.m., and all are welcomed. Contact the Nature Center at 432-364-2499 ext. 2 for dates and more information.

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2022 Visitors Guide 11


The Chinati Foundation

The Chinati Foundation is a contemporary art museum based upon the ideas of its founder, Donald Judd. His intent was to preserve and present to the public largescale installations by a limited number of artists. The foundation is located on 340 acres in Marfa.

It’s normally open to the public Wednesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., and various tours are available, but you should call ahead as hours may change. Call 432-729-4362 for more information, or visit chinati.org.

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12 2022 Visitors Guide

The Brewster County Tourism Council and Visit Big Bend want you to enjoy your time in Big Bend, and to facilitate this, we ask that you take advantage of our mobile app put out by Just Ahead. This app is free in the Apple Store or Google Play. Just go to Just Ahead, find Big Bend National Park, and download the app. No wifi, internet, or mobile phone service is needed for this guided tour through Brewster County. For more information on lodging, dining, activities, or the free mobile app, visit our website at visitbigbend.com.


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2022 Visitors Guide 13


Marfa Lights

The Mar fa Lights are a must-see on any visit to the Big Bend. Accounts of strange phenomena just outside Marfa began during the 19th century and continue to this day. Some say they are UFOs or ghosts, but despite much research, they still remain unexplained. The dancing lights on the horizon might appear as

blue, or red, or white, and usually appear randomly throughout the night during any season or weather condition. The source of the mystery lights is a point of contention, but you should see them for yourself. The official Marfa Lights Viewing Area is located nine miles east of town on Highway 90 towards Alpine.

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TAKE A HIKE

There’s no accurate count, but there are dozens of popular hikes in the Big Bend region. The climate range in the area – from desert f loors to mountains –

can vary widely, so you can choose a hike to suit the weather. The suggestions here are all day hikes, so they’re convenient if you’re just looking for a quick outing.

Day hikes CHIH UA H UA N DESERT RESEARCH INSTITUTE – Easy to moderate, 0.33 to 2.25 miles. To get there, drive four miles southeast of Fort Davis to the gate at 43869 Texas Highway 118. MADER A CANYON TR AIL – A moderate 2.4-mile round trip near the Nature Conservancy’s Davis Mountains Preserve. It’s about 25 miles northwest of Fort Davis on Highway 118, about 10 miles past McDonald Observatory. Look for the Lawrence E. Wood picnic area. HANCOCK HILL – An easy, 20-30 minutes one way uphill at Sul Ross State University. Be sure to cross over to the desk to the east and sign the notebook.

THE WINDOW TRAIL – Moderate, and uphill most of the way back, 4.4 or 5.6 miles round trip at Big Bend National Park. CHISOS BASIN LOOP TRAIL – A moderate 1.8-mile round trip through pine and oak with outstanding views. Begins at the Chisos Basin Trailhead at Big Bend National Park. SANTA ELENA CANYON – An easy 1.8-mile round trip at Big Bend National Park, but crosses Terlingua Creek and starts with a moderate uphill climb. EMORY PEAK TRAIL – A strenuous, nine-mile round trip inside Big Bend National Park.

Photo by Shawna Graves

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Expansion is in progress at Museum of the Big Bend.

We tell the story! BEGIN YOUR LAST FRONTIER ADVENTURE AT THE MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND BY MARY BONES Director

The MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND, located on the campus of Sul Ross State University in Alpine, presents a variety of high quality exhibits each year and tells the compelling story of the Big Bend region of Texas and Mexico in our permanent display Big Bend Legacy. HOURS: Tuesday – Saturday, 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM Closed major holidays ADMISSION: $5.00/person Free to Museum members, children 12 and under, and current SRSU students, faculty, and staff. Free Parking For more information, call 432·837·8730 or visit our website: museumofthebigbend.com

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The Museum of the Big Bend, located on the campus of Sul Ross State University, is your first stop as you begin your journey into Big Bend country. Housed in a 1936 Texas Centennial Memorial Museum building, the Museum of the Big Bend tells the unique story of Brewster, Jeff Davis and Presidio counties that make up the Big Bend region. Exhibits and videos explore the history of the Big Bend, starting with the world’s largest flying reptile, the Texas Pterosaur, to the creation of the Rio Grande River as an international border, the story of the Buffalo Soldiers, the history of Sul Ross State University and much more. The Museum also hosts revolving temporary exhibits that all reflect the Big Bend area and the American West. For those with an interest in

cartography, the Map Room Hallway features exhibits from one of the most historically significant map groupings in Texas - the Yana and Marty Davis Map Collection. It’s housed in a special maps study room at the Museum, and will enlighten and educate visitors about Texas. While at the Museum, check out Big Bend Trading Company, the Museum’s gift shop featuring a wonderful selection of unique gifts, jewelry, pottery, books, cards and other items. The Museum of the Big Bend is reached at Entrance 4 on the Sul Ross campus. Museum hours are Tuesday through Saturday from 9 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday from 1-5 p.m. The Museum is closed on Monday and major holidays. Admission and parking is free, and donations are accepted. For more information, call 432-837-8143, or visit museumofthebigbend.com.


Stargaze at

MCDONALD OBSERVATORY

McDonald Observatory is located in the Davis Mountains under some of the darkest skies in the continental U.S., around 450 miles west of its research and administrative home at the University of Texas at Austin. The obser vator y welcomes the public at the Frank N. Bash Visitors Center with advance reservations, and advance reservations are required for all programs as well, including star parties. All reservations must be made online at mcdonaldobservatory. org. For more information, call 432-426-3640.

Photo courtesy McDonald Observatory

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Hitting the road in the

Big Bend

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Sometimes you just want to take a drive and enjoy the amazing West Texas vistas, and that’s easy to do. Roads are good on all these routes, so you won’t need four-wheel drive – a passenger car will do. Keep in mind that these f ive drives could get lots longer depending upon your starting point. Only one is a true loop, so allow time to get back where you started or to drive to your ultimate destination. Bring plenty of snacks and water, and make sure your gas tank is full since most of these routes will take you far from your starting point, and offer no accommodations along the way. Oh, and don’t forget your camera.

RIVER ROAD (EL CAMINO DEL RIO) 62 miles on Ranch Road 170 from Study Butte/Terlingua to Presidio. FORT DAVIS LOOP a true, 75-mile loop starting and ending in Fort Davis on Texas Highways 118 and 166. DAVIS MOUNTAIN LOOP TRAIL 37 miles on Texas Highway 17 from Fort Davis to Balmorhea. ROSS MAXWELL SCENIC DRIVE a 30-mile drive within Big Bend National Park. U.S. HIGHWAY 385 68 miles from Marathon to Panther Junction in Big Bend National Park.

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ALPINE MURALS

S

troll through the breezeway alongside the Reata Restaurant (between the street and their patio), and marvel at the colorful mural depicting scenes from which the restaurant takes its name, “Giant.” Walk down the street two blocks south, and you’ll see two more fabulous murals by Stylle Read on the side of Kiowa Gallery. One mural displays many mages of West Texas and Alpine, including one of Sul Ross’s most famous alumni, Dan Blocker of “Bonanza.” The other mural is based on “Poco a Poquito” calendar artwork by Jesus Helguera, and was a gift to Alpine from ArtWalk, painted by Stylle Read and volunteers in a weekend. Alpine’s newest murals honor the Tex-

as Rangers and the Alpine Volunteer Fire Department. You’ll see the Texas Ranger mural, also by Stylle Read, on the side of the Prescription Shop on Holland Avenue, and a stroll down Holland Avenue

past Kishmish Plaza will take you right to the Volunteer Fire Department mural. And be sure to see the Sixth Street alley murals rendered by Stylle Read and local artists.

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A river runs I through

BY GAIL DIANE YOVANOVICH

Managing Editor

it

A dry Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend National Park in late May stands as evidence of extended drought in the Southwest. Photo by J.T. Maroney

n April and May visitors to Big Bend National Park found the Rio Grande dry in many places, but by late May, river trips through Santa Elena Canyon had resumed. That is not expected to continue, though. According to the U.S. Drought Monitor, the summer of 2021 exceeded all past droughts in the region since 2000, and a recent study found the period from 2000-2021 was the driest in 1,200 years in the Southwest U.S. That trend continues today. Greg Henington owns a river rafting company in south Brewster County, and he said the river “comes and goes all summer.” At the east end of the park, springs supplement the Rio Grande, but upstream the river is dependent upon reservoirs in northern Mexico. Those reservoirs feed into the Rio Conchos, and the Rio Conchos intersects into the Rio Grande around Presidio. The reservoirs exist to provide irrigation and water for human consumption. Only when the reservoirs are full is water released into the river. Tom VandenBerg, chief of Interpretation and Visitor Services at Big Bend National Park, said localized downpours in South County send water rushing into creeks and the river. Henington and VandenBerg agreed that the river would recede quickly, and both were hoping for good rains when the monsoon season starts in mid-July.

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2022 Visitors Guide 21


FINDING WATER IN THE DESERT

The pool at Balmorhea State Park. Photo courtesy Texas Parks and Wildlife Department

Although the Big Bend region is considered high desert, water isn’t that hard to find, and here are some places to get away from the desert dust. RIO GRANDE RIVER TRIPS – Five river canyons traverse the Big Bend for kayak, canoe or raft. Find an outfitter in Terlingua. POST PARK – Find an oasis in the desert south of Marathon, with big shade trees, picnic areas, and a fishing pond. HOT SPRINGS HISTORIC DISTRICT – There’s a hot spring for soaking on the north side of the Rio Grande in Big Bend National Park. Take the two-mile gravel road that descends down a rough, narrow wash to the Hot Springs Historic District. From the trailhead, it’s a quarter-mile hike to the spring. ALPINE MUNICIPAL POOL – During the summer months, Alpine opens its swimming pool and charges a modest admission fee. Head over to Kokernot Park for a cool dip. BALMORHEA STATE PARK – The park’s main feature is a 1.3-acres freshwater pool built around San Solomon Springs. The water temperature stays at 72-76 degrees year round, and the park charges a modest admission fee.

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MORE THINGS TO DO

WHILE YOU’RE HERE W

hether it’s your first visit to the Big Bend or you’ve lived here all your life, you probably have a list of things you love to do or a list of things you’ve always wanted to do. Here are a few more.

– Watch the Alpine Cowboys play baseball at historic Kokernot Park in the summer. – Cross the border to Mexico at Boquillas and ride a donkey to town for lunch. – Find out about local history at Museum of the Big Bend. – Float down the Rio Grande in a raft or canoe. – Wet a line or have a picnic at Post Park in Marathon. – Look for the Marfa Lights.

– Visit the historic cemetery at Terlingua Ghost Town. – Watch an historical re-enactment of 19th-century baseball at Fort Davis National Historic Site. – Look for pronghorn in the fields between Marfa and Alpine or Marfa and Fort Davis. – Go to a Star Party at McDonald Observatory. – Hike to Boot Springs at Big Bend National Park and look for Colima Warbler and Lucifer Hummingbird.

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2022 Visitors Guide 23


BIG BEND T E X A S

VISITBIGBEND.COM

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