FRAME
Exclusively sold at Collete
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Frame EDITOR-IN-CHIEF...JOSHUA
ROTH
CREATIVE DIRECTOR...JOSHUA
ROTH ART DIRECTOR...JOSHUA ROTH EDITORIAL DIRECTOR...JOSHUA ROTH PHOTO EDITOR...JOSHUA ROTH CONTRIBUTING EDITOR...JOSEPH
CASTANON CONTRIBUTING EDITOR...PATRICK HUGHES PUBLISHER...VILLAGE COPIER
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Friends, by definition a frame is a basic structure that underlies or supports a system. Whereas, a more elaborate explanation, defines a frame as a boundary, limiting the creator of their full possibilities. In a sense, you have to decide what to keep within the frame and what to keep out. Conceptually editing down the greatness of a potential idea. In reference to fashion, a frame is a basis for one's confidence, defined as, a feeling of self-assurance arising from one's appreciation of their own abilities or qualities. In other words, one's confidence is partially reliant on their overall framework, and the ways a sturdy frame can assist in achieving an overall aura of confidence. Easily personified through meticulously crafted clothing, structure, and support, the wearer is easily elevated to a level of grace and confidence that is simply unimagined in clothes, not of this variety. As I have grown, I have gone through many complex stages, levels if you will. Through my many levels of growth, I have developed in sync with my developing confidence. In more recent times I have found that I am most confident when dressed in a more classic, structured style. My confidence is a direct relation to my wardrobe, and when my collars popped, pants pressed, and buttons fastened, I tend to hold my head higher and carry myself in a way that exudes confidence. My fashion acts as the support frame, as well as my crutch to excel. FrameTM is a publication that fully expresses the beauty, detail, and structure of fashion while presenting looks in a unique way that contradicts the framework of a 'typical' magazine. Throughout, we highlight up-andcoming fashion designers, that use their very own frame as inspiration for their own collections. What fills your frame?
Joshua Roth Editor-in-Cheif 9
IN THIS ISSUE PAGE 4...MASTHEAD PAGE 7...EDITOR'S NOTE PAGE 8...IN THIS ISSUE PAGE 10...INTRODUCING GEORIA HARDINGE PAGE 24... Power Suits, Put The 'Power' in Empowered. page 34...Introducing liz Collins page 42...iris van herpen page 48...yuki hagino page 62...Hello Nineties, goodbye montana page 64...Introducing noa raviv page 76...introducing matija cop PAGE 93...HERMES PAGE 105...KRAZY FOR KRIZIA PAGE 118...JUNYA WATNABE PAGE 128...PARIS IS VOGUING PAGE 130...A GRAPHIC SETTING: ZEE NUNES
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Introducing Georgia HArdinge Born in London, Hardinge transient early life and international background gave her much opportunity to travel and develop her fascination with design. Training at Parsons School of Art and design in Paris, She won acclaim by receiving the best designer award for her graduate collection. It was here that she first developed her sculptural aesthetic. Photography: Aldene Johnson
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Georgia HArdinge SS15
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Georgia HArdinge SS15
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Georgia HArdinge SS15
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Georgia HArdinge SS15
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Georgia HArdinge SS15
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Power Suits, Put The 'Power' in Empowered. 26
Photography: Nicole Heiniger
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“DRESS SHABBILY AND THEY REMEMBER THE DRESS; DRESS IMPECCABLY AND THEY REMEBER THE WOMAN.” -COCO CHANEL
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Introducing Liz Collins Liz is a New York Citybased artist and designer. She received a BFA and MFA in Textiles at RISD in 1991 and 1999. Upon graduating from RISD with her MFA, she launched her own knitwear focused fashion label with a runway presentation in New York during fashion week. She spent the following four years growing her company, designing, producing, showing,andselling clothing for the international designer market.
Photography: Liz Collins
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Introducing Yuki Hagino "It can be said that clothes are the second skin and architecture is the third skin. Fashion and architecture have a common point here. I tried to express this connection between fashion and architecture in my collection. I learned about designing space and atmosphere by studying architectural design. I naturally keep that in my mind when I design fashion.�
-Yuki Hagino
Photography: Josh Chow
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SCULPTING MIND
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SCULPTING MIND
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SCULPTING MIND
New York
MANY PEOPLE
HELLO NINETIES, GOODBYE MONTANA
OF FAME C O M E AND GO. THEY DISAPPEAR F R O M THE MEDIA FOR
ONE REASON OR ANOTHER. HOWEVER, WHAT THEY ALL HAVE IN COMMON IS THE LEGACY THAT THEY LEAVE BEHIND. UNFORTUNATELY, CLAUDE MONTANA WAS UNABLE TO ESCAPE THE NOT-SO-GREAT POWERS OF THE LIMELIGHT.. BY THE END OF 1997, THE FRENCH READYTO-WEAR DESIGNER, AND FORMER HAUTE COUTURE DESIGNER FOR THE HOUSE OF LANVIN, WAS NOT ONLY BANKRUPT, BUT ALSO ALMOST ENTIRELY OUT OF THE SPOTLIGHT. HE SUCCUMBED TO FAME, AN OBSESSION FOR PERFECTION, AND A DEPENDENCE ON DRUGS. ALTHOUGH CLAUDE MONTANA IS NO LONGER DESIGNING FOR HIS OWN LABEL, HIS LEGACY CONTINUES TO LIVE ON, INSPIRING MODERN FASHION. MONTANA’S COLLECTIONS WERE UNLIKE ANY OTHER. HIS RUNWAY SHOWS WERE SPECTACLES OF INNOVATION AND CONVEYED HIS IDEAL WOMAN.
“SHE WANTS TO BE FREE; SHE HAS ASPIRATIONS, DESIRES, A LIFE, AND SHE TAKES CONTROL OF THEM.” HAVINGONLYMINIMALKNOWLEDGEOFTHEDESIGNAESTHETICSOFCLAUDEMONTANA,ONECOULDQUICKLY ASSUME THAT THIS QUOTE CAME FROM ANY MODERN DAY WOMEN’S WEAR DESIGNER, RANGING FROM ALEXANDER WANG TO PRADA. BOTH DESIGN HOUSES, ALONG WITH NUMEROUS OTHER DESIGNERS, CONTINUALLY EMPHASIZED THE IMPORTANCE OF INDEPENDENCE IN THEIR COLLECTIONS SIMILAR TO THAT OF MONTANA. CLAUDE DESIGNED FOR A PARTICULAR WOMAN, ONE WHO HE VIEWED TO BE
“…AGGRESSIVE BUT [ALSO] DETERMINED…” HIS DESIRE TO CONVEY A STRONG WOMAN WAS EVIDENT IN HIS DESIGNS, RANGING FROM HIS USE OF LEATHER AND FUR, TO HIS OVER EXAGGERATED SHOULDER PADS, AND BOLD SILHOUETTES. AS AN EXAMPLE, IT CAN EVEN BE ASSUMED THAT MARC JACOBS FALL 2016 COLLECTION WAS LOOSELY BASED OFF OF MONTANA’S WORK. JACOBS USES SIMILAR ELEMENTS, SUCH AS BOWS, FUR, OVER-SIZED SILHOUETTES, EMBROIDERED TEES, AND MASCULINE TAILORING—ALL OF WHICH RESEMBLED PREVIOUS SHOWS FROM CLAUDE MONTANA. SADLY, WE ARE NO LONGER GRACED WITH A NEW CLAUDE MONTANA COLLECTION EVERY SEASON—YET WE ARE REMINDED OF HIS GENIUS CREATIONS MORE OFTEN THEN WE THINK. HIS CAREER DEMISE WAS NOT DUE TO A LACK OF TASTE IN HIS MOST RECENT COLLECTIONS. IN FACT, HE WAS CONSIDERED A PERFECTIONIST, AND STRIVED TO CREATE COLLECTIONS THAT WERE IMMACULATE, AND EXACTLY WHAT HE ENVISIONED. THIS IS DEMONSTRATED TIME AND TIME AGAIN, THAT NO MATTER HOW TALENTED OF AN ARTIST ONE MAY BE, FAILURE IS STILL A REALITY.
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Introducing Noa Raviv She is a womenswear designer from Tel Aviv, currently based in NYC. Noa is fascinated by the tension between harmony and chaos, tradition and innovation, sensitively seeking for the perfect balance. She likes to observe and look for the uniqueness and beauty in the mundane and ordinary.
Photography: Ron Kedmi
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Hard Copy Collection
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Hard Copy Collection
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Hard Copy Collection
Introducing Matija Cop He is a first year graduate student of Fashion Design at the Faculty of Textile Design of the University in Zagreb. In his work he speaks the language of fashion with a strong conceptual and multidisciplinary background. He pays great attention to the material he uses and to the conceptual background. Along with his exploratory collections, he has shown a few commercial collections during the Croatian Fashion Week, The main theme of his work, is the question of identity. Object 12.1 is an end product of my university experiment in the multiplication of material. In the production of this piece of clothing, a contemporary material is used whose original qualities were preserved to the same degree to which the qualities of the stone used for the construction of the cathedral were preserved. The material feels like rock when you touch it, but its original look is completely changed. OBJECT 12.1 is created with the use of the laser cutter and the plug and feather mechanics. Its production lasted for three months. The ibenik cathedral is a chiseled stone building dated from the year 153. Both objects are atypical for their field fashion and architecture: they exemplify a very inventive use of material, and spontaneously express their own visual culture forming a cape suit. Photography: Jasminka Koncic
COLLECTION – OBJECT 12.1
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COLLECTION – OBJECT 12.1
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COLLECTION – OBJECT 12.1
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COLLECTION – OBJECT 12.1
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COLLECTION – OBJECT 12.1
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THE ROW
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Photography: Zoe Ghertner
Hermes AW12
Hermes AW12
Hermes AW12
New York
Krazy for
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Junya Watanabe AW15
Junya Watanabe AW15
Junya Watanabe AW15
I don't twerk,
I vogue
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Paris is Voguing WHENEVER I THINK OF VOGUING, THE FIRST THING THAT COMES TO MIND IS THAT ONE GAY GUY AT MY HIGH SCHOOL PROM WHO WOULD BEAT HIS FACE AND THROW SHADE LIKE IT WAS NOBODY’S BUSINESS. AT THE TIME, I VIEWED VOGUING AS NOTHING MORE THAN A POPULAR DANCE. CONSISTING OF
“…ANGULAR BODY MOVEMENTS, EXAGGERATED MODEL POSES AND INTRICATE MIME LIKE CHOREOGRAPHY,” ADRIAN MAGNIFIQUE DESCRIBES IT AS AN ACT OF “…PANTOMISING, MIMING, ACTING LIKE A NINJA, [OR] FIGHTING KARATE…” I ASSUMED THAT THIS STYLE OF DANCE WAS ONLY POPULAR AMONGST THE LESBIAN, GAY, BISEXUAL, AND TRANSGENDER (LGBT) COMMUNITY. ALTHOUGH I FOUND MY INITIAL ASSUMP-
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TION TO BE TRUE, I DISCOVERED THAT VOGUING BURST INTO PUBLIC CONSCIOUSNESS AT THE END OF THE 1980S INTO THE EARLY 1990S BECAUSE OF THE DOCUMENTARY TITLED, PARIS IS BURNING. THIS FILM EXPLORES THE DOWNTOWN MANHATTAN BALL SCENE, FOCUSING ON THE AFRICAN AMERICAN GAY, TRANSGENDER AND DRAG CULTURE. DAVID ULTIMA WOULD DESCRIBE A BALL AS SIMILAR TO A FASHION SHOW, EXCEPT ONE WAS NOT JUDGED; IT WAS A PLACE OF ESCAPE AND FREEDOM. ACCORDING TO ARTFORUM IN FEBRUARY 1989, VOGUING IS “THE LATEST PHENOMENON FOR NEW YORK TREND-MONGERS” VOGUING HAS BECOME MORE THAN JUST AN ELABORATE COMPILATION OF SHOWING FACE AND MODEL-LIKE POSES, BUT RATHER
“…BOTH AN ART FORUM AND A COMPLEX SOCIAL NEXUS THAT RAISES LARGE AND LOADED QUESTIONS ABOUT CULTURE…” VOGUING ALSO ACTS AS A WAY TO UNIFY A COMMUNITY THROUGH VARIOUS DIFFERENT HOUSES. THE HOUSES WERE DIFFERENT SUBGROUPS THAT PARTICIPATED IN OR ORGANIZED THE BALLS. THEY ACTED AS A FAMILY TO THE YOUTH, PREACHING LOVE AND HEALTHY FAMILY VALUES. THE UNIFI-
CATION OF THE LGBT COMMUNITY, AS WELL AS THE GROWING POPULARITY FOR THE DANCE STYLE, LED TO A STRONG DESIRE FOR FASHION, PARTICULARLY HAUTE COUTURE. AFTER ALL, THE DANCE MOVES WERE INSPIRED BY MODELS AND THE PAGES UPON PAGES OF COUTURE IN VOGUE. ALTHOUGH MANY OF THE PARTICIPANTS IN THE BALLS COULD NOT AFFORD HAUTE COUTURE, IT STILL INSPIRED THEIR PERSONAL BALL PERFORMANCES CONCURRENT WITH THEIR DESIRE FOR WEALTH. THE CULTURE THAT EXISTED AMONGST THE BALL SCENE IN THE LATE 1980S INSPIRED MANY CREATIVE SPIRITS. IN 1989, FRENCH FASHION DESIGNER THIERRY MUGLER HAD VOGUERS AT HIS RUNWAY SHOW IN PARIS. MANY OF THE DANCERS WERE ACTUAL MEMBERS OF THE ORIGINAL HOUSES AT THE BALLS. EVEN MADONNA WAS INSPIRED BY THIS UNDERGROUND CULTURE, RELEASING ONE OF HER MOST FAMOUS SONGS “VOGUE” IN 1990 TO SHOWCASE HER FASCINATION. “SINCE THE EARLY 1990S, VOGUING AS A DANCE FORM HAS CONTINUED TO EVOLVE, REFLECTING GENERATIONAL SHIFTS IN MUSIC, MOVES, AND POPULAR CULTURE REFERENCES.” IT MIGHT HAVE STARTED AS A SIMPLE STYLE OF MOVEMENT, BUT HAS SINCE QUICKLY DEVELOPED INTO A PHENOMENON THAT HAS FOREVER CHANGED THE FACE OF FASHION AND DANCE.
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A Graphic Setting Zee NuNes styling: Renata Correa Photogrpahy: Zee Nunes
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Credentials Page one...saint laurent spring 2016 campaign page two...lindsey wixson w magazine page four...viktor and rolf couture 2015 page ten and cover...Georgia Hardinge Spring/Summer 2015 R/w page twenty.two...#ImPerfect Esprit Re-opening page twenty.four...BusinessWoman editorial MarieClaire US 2012 page thirty.four...Vogue Turkey March 2016 by Liz Collins page fourty...prada f/w 2014 page fourty.two...iris van herpen 3d printing page fourty.eight...hagino CSM Ba Graduate collection 2013 page fifty.six...bond bracelet by charlotte chesnais page fifty.eight... Novis NYC 2016-2017 F/w Womens Lookbook page sixty... MANSUR GAVRIEL SPRING/SUMMER 2016 page sixty.four...noa raviv hard copy collection page seventy.two...The Row Pre Autumn Winter 2016 page seventy.four...ysl rive gauche page seventy.five... Balenciaga spring 1998, Pic By Mark Alesky page seventy.six...Object 12.1 collection by Matija cop page ninety.one...The Row Resort 2016 Collection page ninety.two...Narciso Rodriguez Resort 2016 page ninety.three...zoe ghertner hermes page one.hundred.one...nicholls FOR FASHION MAG's MAY ISSUE page one.hundred.three...Fall 2014 Winona Ryder Campaign page one.hundred.five...Bogi Safran for Krizia FW15 page one.hundred.Sixteen...Vicki Hilbert for Chanel No. 5 page one.hundred.seventeen...Linda Evangelista for D&G page one.hundred.eighteen...Erik Heck x Watanabe Fall 2015 page one.hundred.twenty.six...Joan Smalls Vogue for Dec. 2014 page one.hundred.thirty...Shirley Mallmann Harper's Bazaar page one.hundred.thirty.eight...Vogue Japan by Luigi&Iango page one.hundred.fourty...Versus Istante Versace 1995 page one.hundred.fourty.one...Louboutin’s New Nail Polish page one.hundred.fourty.four...Wang 2013 by Steven Klein
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