TREND REPORT Autumn Winter 17/18 Predictions
Frances Tilstone N0632218 FASH20032
AW17/18 Trend Report
1. PAINT THE TOWN PINK 2. STREET SMART 3. SUPERSIZE ME
MENSWEAR
PRINT & GRAPHIC 1. CAMO IN DISGUISE 2. LETS GET POLITICAL 3. DARK INFLORESCENCE VISUAL MERCHANDISING
CONTENTS
1. EXPOSED 2. MINIMAL LIVING 3. THE FUTURE IS NOW
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Obey at Bright Trade Show Berlin Own Image, 2017
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Menswear
Nanette Lepore WGSN, 2017
Patrik Ervell WGSN, 2017
PAINT THE TOWN PINK
Soulland Berlin Trade Show, 2017
Ovadia and Sons WGSN, 2017
Haider Ackermann 10 Magazine, 2017
Berlin Street style WGSN, 2017
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Stella McCartney WGSN, 2017
TheHeatherShow flickr, 2005
Berluti WGSN 2017
Haider Ackermann 10 Magazine, 2017
The rise in popularity of the colour pink is a trend that will make the transition across the seasons, and become key for menswear in AW 17/18. The warmer, soft pastel pinks of SS 17 will evolve into darker, dusty and more muted tones that appeal across genders. This trend will be dominant in the form of outerwear such as sweatshirts and coats, evoking a youthful streetwear edge but paired with core neutral colours such as black and navy, as seen on the catwalks, the high contrast look achieved will also offer a sense of sophistication into menswear. Socially, this colour remains relevant as the darker pink hue bears connotations to the pioneering women who wore it in the mid 20th century and stands out as a statement of femininity: forceful and rebellious, reflective of the times.
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Menswear
London Street style WGSN, 2017
Bristol Los Angeles Hypebeast, 2017
Haider Ackermann WGSN, 2017
STREET SMART
Tokyo Street style WGSN, 2017
Paris Street style WGSN, 2017
Milan Street style WGSN, 2017 Tim Coppens WGSN, 2017
Paris Street style WGSN, 2017
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New York Street style WGSN, 2017
The revival of nostalgic sportswear and associated brands continues in AW 17/18, but on the streets people are looking for new ways to subvert this message and give the trend a fresh, contemporary perspective. In the Street Smart trend, elements of 90s sportswear such as hoodies and tracksuits are deconstructed and juxtaposed for menswear with traditionally formal clothing, evoking an experimental, rebellious edge but also injecting a sophistication into modern streetwear. This can even be seen on the AW 17/18 catwalks where the tracksuit stripes are being transposed onto suit trousers, giving even formalwear a youthful, sporty feel and adding a pop of colour.
Milan Street style WGSN, 2017
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Menswear
Billionaire WGSN, 2017 Seoul Street style WGSN, 2017
Dim Mak Collection WGSN, 2017
Ami Alexandre Mattiussi WGSN, 2017
SUPERSIZE ME
London Street style WGSN, 2016
Street style WGSN, 2017
Balenciaga WGSN, 2017 Sleek Trade Show Berlin Own Image, 2017
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Dolce and Gabbana WGSN, 2017
Issey Miyake Vogue, 2017
A key trend for menswear in AW 17/18 will be oversized clothing, especially in outerwear as it can be seen on the catwalks and the streets in every form of jacket and coat imaginable from puffa to bomber to fur. This is also a look that refers back to the 90s style of fashion and as it eliminates the human form, evokes a feeling of androgyny as these garments could be worn by men and women alike. This trend is a statement look and although rebellious, it also a suggests a need for wrapping oneself up for comfort and security during a time pf social and political turmoil, almost as though in donning the garment, a new identity is being worn.
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Print & Graphic
WGSN, 2017 Ontour Berlin Trade Show, 2017
CAMO IN DISGUISE
WGSN, 2017
Yeezy Vogue, 2017
Moschino The Guardian, 2017
Fairplay Berlin Trade Show, 2017
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Paul Costelloe WGSN, 2017
KTZ WGSN, 2017
Liam Hodges wordsbygabriella.com, 2017
Moschino 10 Magazine, 2017
A seasonal favourite, for AW 17/18 camouflage is reinvented using images taken from nature, whether in an abstract, painterly fashion or hyperrealistic, to emulate the style and colour palette of traditional camo. The focus this season is on colour, especially a yellow accent; innovative design; and tactile texture, and the all in one coverage seen on the catwalks creates a statement, unisex look more suggestive of urban streetwear than its military roots. Use of digital, pixelated patterns shows the ongoing juggling of nature and technology in our society, referring to the trend of sustainable fashion and a rejection of technology, longing to be close to nature. The need to camouflage and protect ourselves in a hostile environment is also relevant in today’s society.
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Print & Graphic
Creatures of Comfort Vogue, 2017
Christian Dior Dazed, 2016
LETS GET POLITICAL
Chakshyn Kiev Vogue, 2017
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LRS Studio Elle Malaysia, 2017
Ashish Vogue, 2017
Prabal Gurung LOVE Magazine, 2017
Prabal Gurung Elle UK, 2017
Christian Siriano Vogue, 2017
VFiles Vogue, 2017
After President Trump’s controversial election, it was of no surprise that the fashion industry, especially in America, had something to say about it on the AW 17/18 catwalks – and they weren’t shy at all. Statement slogan tees have recently made a comeback and this season their main focus is on delivering political messages from their designers on women’s and immigration rights and diversity. The rise of NYFW’s political statements began at Tommy Hilfiger’s show where models wore white bandanas around their wrists, to make a statement of solidarity and inclusivity. In this vein, the colour palette for this trend remains minimal, for maximum focus and impact to be on the words.
Dior Barcelona Own Image, 2017
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Print & Graphic
Blue Studio WGSN, 2017 Whole9Yards at Trade Show WGSN, 2017
DARK INFLORESCENSE
Pam Hogg Vogue, 2017
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5-Knot WGSN, 2017
Hot House Floral WGSN, 2017
Valentino WGSN, 2017
Christopher Kane Vogue, 2017
Streetstyle WGSN, 2017 Gucci Vogue, 2017
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi wwd.com, 2017
Borrowed from Spring/Summer, a key print trend for womenswear AW 17/18 will be ditsy, tightly packed florals but on a contrasting gothic, dark-ground. Symbolising a return to femininity, this replaces the abstract, oversized florals seen in previous seasons, again referring strongly to the 1990s, this time with a grunge aesthetic. Lead by Valentino’s influential collection, designs also appear on luxurious, flowing fabrics and in textured brocades, reminiscent of romantic Victoriana and traditional furnishing materials. The trend appears fresh and modern in an oversized silhouette, with pops of colour and using grunge styling for a tough, rebellious edge.
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Jose Davila WGSN, 2017
Visual Merchandising
Wonderfluoro by Rachel Harding archinew.altervista.org, 2017
River Island Own Image, 2017 Alejandro Almanza Pereda WGSN, 2017
TopShop Own Image, 2017
Dan Flavin x Louis Vuitton e-flux.com, 2017
EXPOSED
The Heart WGSN, 2017
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Urban Outfitters Own Image, 2017
Jose Davila WGSN, 2017
Ksvbi Tumblr WGSN, 2017
For AW 17/18 the VM trend of neon lights will evolve into raw, exposed lighting in a minimal environment, now alluding more to the future than its nostalgic roots. Inspired by contemporary artists instead of club culture, whites and muted hues in simple bars and circular shapes create a modern, understated and stripped back feel - a backlash to the “in your face� neon signage of previous seasons. Evoking more of an industrial feel, the Exposed trend can effectively be incorporated with plants to revitalise the nature trend in VM, creating a visual contrast between manmade and natural materials. Neon has connotations of being bold, standing out and rebelling, and looking forward in hope to the future: an unapologetic symbol of today’s society.
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Visual Merchandising
Obey at Bright Trade Show Berlin Own Image, 2017 Magnus Petterson WGSN, 2017
Valley Gyal tumblr.com, 2017
MINIMAL LIVING
Well Proven Chair Marjan Van Aubel, 2012
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Bright Trade Show Berlin Own Image, 2017
Proportion Mannequins WGSN, 2017
Valley Gyal tumblr.com, 2017
Chris Fraser WGSN, 2017 Valley Gyal tumblr.com, 2017
The Store Soho House Berlin Own Image, 2017
The Minimal Living VM trend incorporates an industrial, harsh looking environment with a soft colour palette and raw, organic materials to create elegant and abstract installations: mixing manmade structures with natural resources. Unrefined, rough textures and surfaces like marble, rock and stone are used to explore simplicity and sustainability in design, as waste is softened and transformed into unpolished beauty. This creates a thoughtful, futuristic and experimental retail environment, creating an experience for the consumer who now wishes sustainability to be genuine and not just for marketing purposes. Minimal Living provokes questions of what we consider to be luxury, looking to the future of design.
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THE FUTURE IS NOW
Visual Merchandising
CCLR Self-service stand WGSN, 2017
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TeamLab Art through the crystal universe WGSN, 2017
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Mirror WGSN, 2017 Swarovski WGSN, 2017
Adidas Store Bikini Berlin Own Image, 2017
Forming Reality WGSN, 2017
Panasonic Future Mirror WGSN, 2017
Gem Fletcher - Mannequins WGSN, 2017
Yayoi Kusama Infinity Mirror Room The Broad Museum, 2016
The Future is Now describes how immersive experiences and technology will become increasingly frequent and important in VM moving into AW 17/18 and beyond. Inspired by contemporary art installations, we are becoming fascinated with the fantasy and dream like experiences that technology can offer us and these will be used as powerful marketing tools that can easily be captured and shared with the world. The consumer now wishes to be a part of their favourite brand or shop and fully immersed in the retail experience, stimulating all the senses using lights, colour and sound. They also crave escape from reality and the chance to be playful and wonder in a new environment. Digital technology is replacing humans as a retail aid with screens that offer a personalised shopping experience quickly growing more prevalent instore.
Yannick Jacquet, Jérémie Peeters & Thomas Vaquié WGSN, 2017
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AW17/18 Trend Report
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
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Fig 1. Obey at Bright Trade Show Berlin, Own Image, 2017 Fig 2. Nanette Lepore, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/68812/page/5 Fig 3. Patrik Ervell, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/70651/page/7 Fig 4. Soulland at Berlin Trade Show, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www. wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/?lang=en#/70425/page/18 Fig 5. Ovadia & Sons, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/70651/page/11 Fig 6. Haider Ackermann, 10 Magazine, 2017 Available at: http://www.10magazine. com/menswear/haider-ackermann-menswear-aw17 Fig 7. Berluti, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/70471/page/8 Fig 8. Stella McCartney, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/69180/page/10 Fig 9. Berlin Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70920/page/2 Fig 10. TheHeatherShow, Flickr, 2005 Available at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/heathershow/ Fig 11. Haider Ackermann, 10 Magazine, 2017 Available at: http://www.10magazine.com/menswear/haider-ackermann-menswear-aw17 Fig 12. Bristol Los Angeles, HypeBeast.com, 2017 Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2017/2/bristol-basketball-inspired-collection Fig 13. London Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70922/page/13 Fig 14. Paris Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70922/page/10 Fig 15. Tokyo Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72580/page/6 Fig 16. Haider Ackermann, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/71829/page/3 Fig 17. Milan Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70922/page/11 Fig 18. Tim Coppens, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/70725/page/6 Fig 19. Paris Streetstyle, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70922/page/11 Fig 20. New York Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ content/board_viewer/#/70922/page/2 Fig 21. Milan Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board viewer/#/70922/page/6 Fig 22. Seoul Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/71956/page/7 Fig 23. Billionaire, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/70366/page/6 Fig 24. Dim Mak Collection, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70900/page/2
Fig 25. London Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/69955/page/9 Fig 26. Ami Alexandre Mattiussi, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70814/page/6 Fig 27. Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/69955/page/9 Fig 28. Balenciaga, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/70814/page/7 Fig 29. Seek Trade Show Berlin, Own Image, 2017 Fig 30. Dolce and Gabbana, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70366/page/4 Fig 31. Issey Miyake, Vogue, 2017 Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/issey-miyake/slideshow/collection#40 Fig 32. Abstract Camo, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/72091/page/18 Fig 33. PGAW Camo, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/71017/page/3 Fig 34. Ontour at Berlin Trade Show, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/71517/page/26 Fig 35. Moschino, The Guardian, 2017 Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ fashion/gallery/2017/jan/17/mens-fashion-week-eight-standout-collections-frommilan-in-pictures Fig 36. Yeezy, Vogue, 2017 Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumnwinter-2017-ready-to-wear/yeezy/collection/ Fig 37. KTZ, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70443/page/11 Fig 38. Paul Costelloe, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/71601/page/2 Fig 39. Fairplay at Berlin Trade Show, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www. wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72298/page/17 Fig 40. Liam Hodges, wordsbygabriella.com, 2017 Available at: http://wordsbygabriella.com/liam-hodges-aw17-noctismag-com/ Fig 41. Moschino, 10 Magazine, 2017 Available at: http://www.10magazine.com/ menswear/moschino-menswear-aw17 Fig 42. Chakshyn Kiev, Vogue, 2017 Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/kiev-spring-2017/chakshyn/slideshow/collection#12 Fig 43. Christian Dior, Dazed, 2017 Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/ fashion/article/33167/1/maria-grazia-chiuris-feminist-diorevolution Fig 44. Creatures of Comfort, Vogue, 2017 Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ shows/autumn-winter-2017-ready-to-wear/creatures-of-comfort-pre/collection/ Fig 45. LRS Studio, Elle Malaysia, 2017 Available at: http://www.elle.my/fashion/Trends/gallery/Fashion-goes-political-at-New-York-Fashion-Week-AW17#10 Fig 46. Ashish, Vogue, 2017 Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumnwinter-2017-ready-to-wear/ashish/collection/ Fig 47. Prabal Gurung, Elle UK, 2017 Available at: http://www.elleuk.com/catwalk/news/g31531/prabal-gurung-autumn-winter-2017-collection-new-york-fashionweek/?slide=7
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AW17/18 Trend Report
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
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Fig 48. Prabal Gurung, LOVE Magazine, 2017 Available at: http://www.thelovemagazine.co.uk/posts/7568/furry-futures-and-slogan-tees-at-prabal-gurung-aw17 Fig 49. VFiles, Vogue, 2017 Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/springsummer-2017-ready-to-wear/vfiles/collection/ Fig 50. Christian Siriano, Vogue, 2017 Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ shows/autumn-winter-2017-ready-to-wear/christian-siriano/collection/ Fig 51. Dior Barcelona, Own Image, 2017 Fig 52. Pam Hogg, Vogue, 2017 Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2017-ready-to-wear/pam-hogg/collection/ Fig 53. Blue Studio, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/71904/page/5 Fig 54. Whole9Yards, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/72298/page/5 Fig 55. 5-Knot, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/72118/page/11 Fig 56. Valentino, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/71325/page/3 Fig 57. Christopher Kane, Vogue, 2017 Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ shows/autumn-winter-2017-ready-to-wear/christopher-kane/collection/ Fig 58. Hot House Floral, Vogue, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/71647/page/3 Fig 59. Street style, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/71538/page/2 Fig 60. Gucci, Vogue, 2017 Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumnwinter-2017-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection/ Fig 61. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, wwd.com, 2017 Available at: http://wwd. com/fashion-news/fashion-trends/london-fashion-week-fall-2017-trend-floralsaw17-10816604/ Fig 62. Wonderfluoro by Rachel Harding, archinew.altervista.org, 2017 Available at: http://archinew.altervista.org/2015/12/26/rachel-hardings-wonderfluoro-lights-create-rainbow-coloured-visual-effects/ Fig 63. River Island, Own Image, 2017 Fig 64. Jose Davila, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/69242/page/4 Fig 65. TopShop, Own Image, 2017 Fig 66. Alejandro Almanza Pereda, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/70592/page/4 Fig 67. Dan Flavin x Louis Vuitton, e-flux.com, 2017 Available at: http://www.e-flux.com/announcements/99949/dan-flavin/ Fig 68. Jose Davila, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.26984348 Fig 69. Urban Outfitters, Own Image, 2017 Fig 70. The Heart, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/70428/page/4 Fig 71. Ksvbi Tumblr, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/70429/page/4 Fig 72. Magnus Petterson, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/69242/page/4
Fig 73. Obey at Bright Trade Show Berlin, Own Image, 2017 Fig 74. Valley Gyal, tumblr.com, 2017 Available at: valleygyal.tumblr.com Fig 75. Proportion Mannequins, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/69242/page/8 Fig 76. The Beauty Spot at Bright Trade Show Berlin, Own Image, 2017 Fig 77. Well Proven Chair, Marjan Van Aubel, 2012 Available at: http://www.marjanvanaubel.com/work/well-proven/ Fig 78. Valley Gyal, tumblr.com, 2017 Available at: valleygyal.tumblr.com Fig 79. Chris Fraser, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/70301/page/4 Fig 80. Valley Gyal, tumblr.com, 2017 Available at: valleygyal.tumblr.com Fig 81. The Store Soho House Berlin, Own Image, 2017 Fig 82. CCLR Self-service stand, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ content/board_viewer/#/71837/page/4 Fig 83. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Mirror, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www. wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/70182/page/16 Fig 84. TeamLab Art through the crystal universe, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/71152/page/4 Fig 85. Forming Reality, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/71837/page/5 Fig 86. Swarovski, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/71152/page/3 Fig 87. Adidas Store Bikini Berlin, Own Image, 2017 Fig 88. Gem Fletcher – Mannequins, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/71152/page/9 Fig 89. Panasonic Future Mirror, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ content/board_viewer/#/70182/page/16 Fig 90. Yayoi Kusama Infinity Mirror Room, The Broad Museum, 2016 Available at: https://hirshhorn.si.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/05-MIRROR_25.jpg Fig 91. Yannick Jacquet, Jérémie Peeters & Thomas Vaquié, WGSN, 2017 Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/71152/page/3
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