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GASTRO T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A WA R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A W A R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
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EPICUREAN EDUCATION
TOP SUMMER
i e t h the a e is faring in local school canteens
food fests
PAGE 49
CORNISH CUISINE
Publican Politics
Big bosses shine a light on the post-budget industry
e n t hat s on the menu in the Rick Stein county
PAGE 59
PAGE 64
WAR ON WASTE
Why Love Food Hate Waste is putting those leftovers to good use PAGE 79
“I just cook my way”
ISSUE 13 SUMMER 2016
RACHEL KHOO
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The Little Paris Kitchen star on her multicultural meals
22/04/2016 14:52
Neil Rankin
SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL WINCH-FURNESS
He m ay hav e f ou n d his c al l in g l ate in l if e, b u t c hef N eil R an k in is show in g n o sig n s of sl ow in g – ex c ep t w hen it c om es to tu rn in g the ov en dow n . Frederic k L atty c hats ex c l u siv el y to the m aster of m eat ab ou t his n ew restau ran t, ‘ n ose to tail ’ eatin g , an d how to m ak e the m ost of those p rim e c u ts
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GASTRO NEIL RANKIN
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ith L ow an d S l ow , Neil Rankin has re e ne the way we loo at thin a out an oo our meat u lishe y ury ress the he s e ut oo oo is ar more than just your a era e olle tion o re ipes hile there are plenty o mouth waterin ishes to hoose rom o er it s also as the su title su ests a e niti e ui e on how to oo meat rather than what meat to oo t s ery mu h the way e een oo in meat or uite a while says eil hat wante to o was a it more o an instru tional oo on how to oo ertain uts t s not ne essarily re ipes ut more the reasons why we o thin s an oo in not ne essarily or on enien e ut oo in per e tly pannin the est part o pa es the he ty tome helps the more arni orous oo per e t stea s roasts an ar e ue y way o eil s ultimate party tri turnin the temperature own oo in slowly an ettin the est results without stress t mi ht e more time onsumin ut the results are well worth the wait a ompanie y a sele tion o sala s an si es to omplete ea h meal wante it to e ery mu h or home oo s so it s or e ery o y ut a lot o the re ipes will ta e uite a while it s not a on enien e thin eil ontinues t s ome rom oo in in so many meat restaurants o er the years on t really see that restaurants an homes are that i erent we use i erent e uipment ut the same i eas an timin s are there an we re oin the same thin ourse this isn t eil s rst oray into masterin meat in the it hen ar rom it in a t e en i he i ome into the ame a little later than most orn in in ur h he later stu ie physi s at al or ni ersity e ore wor in as a soun en ineer an openin up a hain o san wi h ars ut thin s only ot serious when at the a e o he retraine as a he at a or on leu ulinary s hool in e then he s ha a han in numerous ulinary entures a ross on on with riti al a laim e opene ar e oa
ehin t aul s athe ral with amie li er an ar e ue an rillin expert n rew erry an was hea he o itt ue o in e onshire uare an laun he ohn alt in slin ton as a usion ar e ue restaurant n a ition he spearhea e mo ehouse also in slin ton in the only ar e ue joint in the to oast two rosettes an e eature in the G ood Food G u ide pioneere a iner in oor ate in an or hestrate a se on mo ehouse in hiswi in e s ertainly ome a lon way e omin one o the apital s most ex itin proli an inno ati e restaurateurs i n t really now what wante to o an ha an opportunity or a areer han e so just e i e to ta e it he explains n rew erry an really ot me into ar e ue tau ht me a lot an too me un er his win e pi e up a lot rom other he s ut the way oo is ta en rom him e s een a really i inspiration o ere in tattoos an in aria ly sportin his tra emar ase all ap eil ta es somethin o a uerrilla approa h to his pro ession e oesn t e en ha e a we site just a witter an nsta ram a ount with the han le rontline he an is also part o the on on nion mo ement whi h trans orms the ity s un eruse ereli t orners y turnin them into i rant street oo mar ets t s een a learnin ur e o tryin new oo he re eals oin itt ue initially was just tryin to et out o the whole meri an ar e ue thin an start oin somethin a it i erent hat ele ate at ohn alt where ha ree rein to o whate er wante mo ehouse was a pu menu that han e a little it ut in eneral on t ten to ha e a style just pin h stu rom e erywhere or his e ually ruit ul me ia areer eil has oo e on wo s G reat B ritish M en u an een a uest he on s This M orn in g as well as writin or The G u ardian s or o outh lo ut it s at the sto e in his restaurants where he eels truly at home ma in the most o the est meat he an et his han s on
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GASTRO NEIL RANKIN tra ition that ontinues to unite people n ee just as a un ay to reate new interestin fla ours that ustomers may not roast is still his a ourite east to oo ou an ta e your time ha e trie e ore with that sort o thin so too o flame rille eli a ies hol a ale oats ten to et ille anyway so it s oo to ha e spe ial pla e in his heart or the ommunal spirit they inspire some sort o use or them as they re really ni e meat he insists li e oo in on re more than just oo in meat it oul hey re now ettin re to e eaten whi h means they taste e anythin he on esses just thin oo in o er re is really reat y new restaurant will mainly use lam por an the ori inal way we oo e here s somethin primal an ee as there are so many i erent ree s ut oat s one o my om ortin a out it an it s the a ourite meats an is also ery thin that helpe us e elop small so it s uite ui to oo into human ein s we e een pea in o whi h eil s next oin it or million years so eatery emper will open its we re all rawn to it oors in oho in o em er ere hen some o y s ot a re patrons will e ser e su ulent I eat vegetables most of the week or a ar e ue oin people uts oo e ri ht e ore their eyes at home, and don’t actually eat that hu le aroun it li e that ut perhaps e en more ex itin ly much meat. I just think it should be a out oo it shoul n t e the new enue will show ase nose sti or stu y an it shoul n t to tail eatin or e out arni ores a celebration like it used to be, and e somethin you re or e to where animals are ar e ue whole that we should take a bit more care o it shoul e somethin that to re u e wasta e a mo e that s about cooking it rin s people to ether mu h raise no shorta e o eye rows pre er roasts an sharin stu to e ans see the whole animal thin sittin own with some intri ate as ar ari whereas m seein it here s a time an a pla e or that ut in eneral rom a ompletely i erent an le ounters eil m uyin meat plate o oo on t eat that way or a restaurant where we re oin short ri s we ha e to uy s or the uture eil loo s to the youn er he s o tomorrow or portions here are only two short ri s on a ow so in or er to as the most influential an appre iates his ustomers new oun supply one restaurant we utilise meat rom i erent ows nowle e un erstan in an appre iation o the herita e an hat in o thin has stu in my throat a little it or a while uality o meat n althou h his top tip remains the same ust as there s ertainly a lot o oo that oesn t et use whi h is turn your o en own an ta e your time o er it there s no why i uy a ow o the ut hery mysel an sell it li e that rush e erythin else it seems is always open to interpretation e ha en t opene yet so time will tell how well it wor s out ut he mis on eption a out home oo in is that restaurants in theory it shoul e a more sustaina le way o oo in ha e all the time in the worl an home oo s on t ut it s roni ally eil s iew an eneral outloo on meat is one that s the omplete opposite as ar as m on erne he on lu es peppere with its air share o s epti ism e hampions the on t ta e stu or rante well ein an ethi al treatment o li esto not only as a point an always li e to stop an o prin iple ut also in terms o taste fla our an uality n uestion thin s a little it m whereas he re eres ritish ee as ein the est in the worl he just in uisiti e an pro a ly rmly elie es that it an sometimes e too mu h o a oo thin mistrustin as well eat e eta les most o the wee at home an on t a tually eat that mu h meat he a mits e e one on the wron path L ow an d S l ow b y N eil with meat e ause it s e ome so in raine in e erythin we eat R an k in is ou t n ow , p ric ed whi h is why we nee to ree so mu h o it an why the uality £ 2 5 , f rom E b u ry P ress. o it oes own just thin it shoul e a ele ration li e it use R ead on to m ak e on e of to e an that we shoul ta e a it more are a out oo in it the b ook ’ s m ou th- w aterin g or eil oo in is only part o the story howe er just as rec ip es at hom e… important is the so ial element o ar e uin a ritual an
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GASTRO BLOGGING
Food bloggers are incredibly influential...
The food blogging phenomenon is one that’s proving evermore popular for both amateurs and professionals. Freelance food writer, stylist and photographer Louise Robinson tells us more about how the platform’s changed, and why it’s such an integral part of our contemporary culinary culture PHOTOGRAPHY BY LOUISE ROBINSON
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n our digital age of smartphones, so ial media and fibre o ti broadband, information has never been so readily available at our fingerti s. or foodies, blogging has be ome an intrinsi art of the online generations lifestyle, fusing handy re i es with stunning hotogra hy at the tou h of a button, as freelan e food writer, stylist and hotogra her ouise obinson e lains. he internet has given ordinary eo le a latform to voi e their o inions, whether they fan y themselves as a restaurant riti or the ne t igella, she says. o ular programmes such as The Great British Bake Off and MasterChef encourage talented amateur oo s to have more onfiden e in their abilities. ome oo s now have almost the same o ortunities
blogging ulture has o ened u a level laying field, enabling amateurs and professionals alike to share their gastronomi e erien es with followers all around the world. hrough visually led social media platforms like Instagram and interest, as well as more gourmet s e ifi sites su h as foodgaw er, it s been made a essible for all to en oy. nyone an set u a food blog they don t have to be a hef, food writer, food stylist or hotogra her, e lains ouise.
as trained chefs to create a name for themselves in the industry. ormer fashion a essories designer ouise started her own blog, ygnet it hen, in uly , ombining her love of oo ing with great food and hotogra hy. ased in the usse ountryside, she s assionate about su orting lo al and ritish food su liers and artisan producers, and now works with the li es of reat ritish hefs, he a an entre and orwegian eafood. I started my blog as a reative outlet, but it s be ome so mu h more, she ontinues. It s great to be art of a large ommunity of li eminded eo le who are assionate about good food. eo le like to see recipes from a home cook, as they may be onsidered to be more a hievable. ood bloggers are seen as very a roa hable, and it s im ortant to their readership to connect with those who a tually reate the ontent. erha s even more im ortantly,
ome eo le see it urely as a art time hobby, and others an o ortunity to hange their areer. ood bloggers are in redibly im ortant, often romoting lo ally sour ed rodu ts and rodu ers, and be oming nown for their lo al food nowledge. ar from ust a re reational astime, blogging an ertainly be a serious business, leading to e lusive s onsorshi deals, brand romotions and mar eting campaigns with the potential to well and truly transform eo le s areers. u h a busy mar et an be a om etitive industry in whi h to ma e a name for yourself, so ouise believes you need your individuality to shine through. aving an authenti voi e is ey, she insists. any food bloggers ma e the mista e of o ying others in the ho e of emulating their su ess, but blogging is a commitment that requires a lot of time and effort. hoosing an area you feel assionate about will also hel ee the
momentum going. If you re loo ing at food blogging as a areer, it s in redibly im ortant to stand out. ood blogging has rea hed a lateau and the internet is be oming oversaturated, whi h ma es it harder. o survive and thrive, there has to be more em hasis on reating a uality latform with better images and ontent. hose who ta e food blogging seriously are usually e tremely rofessional, as they re out to reate a brand. aturally, the on e t isn t without its fair share of riti s, who argue that bloggers are un ualified to riti ue food and drin to su h a wides read audien e. ith the otential to ma e or brea an eatery, there s an argument to be made that they have too mu h unregulated in uen e. s far as ouise is on erned, however, it s all about ensuring the final word is fair and balan ed. ood bloggers are in redibly in uential, and their followers trust their o inion, she
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have been a few instances of bloggers giving bad restaurant reviews because they weren’t given a free meal, which is absolutely disgraceful and gives bloggers a bad name.” Which isn’t to say there aren’t any positives to be found, of course; far from it, as many blogs advocate healthier, happier lifestyles, tapping into the latest trends and using their positions to in uen e readers for the better. Nonetheless, Louise is keen to move away from s e ifi fads and ra es, and go back to basics by promoting everything in moderation. “There are still a lot of healthy eating blogs focusing on particular diets, such as sugar-free or gluten-free, and talking about lean foods, she re e ts. he trend for endless variations on avocado on toast and smoothie bowls with chai seeds still seems as popular as ever. I’d like to see a move away from demonising certain food groups, and a return to a balanced diet of seasonal foods. I don’t believe food is either ‘clean’ or ‘bad’ – there just has to be a balance.” But it’s ‘credibility’ that remains the key word on everyone’s lips. In such a fast-moving medium, it’s becoming
in reasingly diffi ult for bloggers to be taken seriously, in spite of the shift in how more traditional media is consumed. To that end, Louise is eager to remove the stigma so often associated with her chosen profession, in order to allow it to grow, develo and ourish in the future. “Food bloggers who work hard to create a quality platform and have an engaged readership need to be taken more seriously by brands and the industry,” she concludes. “Brands are becoming more aware that traffi and age views aren t as important as engagement rates. “Food blogs are often seen as a cheap or free option to gain exposure, so there needs to be a differentiation between hobbyists and professional bloggers. Blogging is now a legitimate career for those creating high-quality content, and food blogs with a loyal following and an interactive community will continue to thrive.”
For photography or any other enquiries, please contact Louise Robinson by calling 07788 660 355, emailing louise@cygnetkitchen.co.uk or visiting www.cygnetkitchen.co.uk
states. “In my opinion, bloggers have a responsibility to provide honest, unbiased accounts of their food experiences. Unfair online reviews can be incredibly damaging to a restaurant’s reputation, so I do understand their concern that bloggers are un ualified to give balanced reviews. “On a positive note for the consumer, it does mean that restaurants have to raise their game, as any customer at any time could be a potential reviewer. There
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T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A W A R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
FIZZY DYNASTY
Our sparkling exclusive chat with Champagne dame Vitalie Taittinger PAGE 73
Paris, je t'aime Raymond Blanc’s whistle-stop tour through the city of love PAGE 78
FESTIVE FLAVOURS
TOP OF THE HOBS
Home is where the haute is in our pick of cracking kitchens
Savour some Yuletide beers over the hoppy holiday season
PAGE 85
SUMPTUOUS SHOOTS
PAGE 39
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Why foodie photography is more than a flash in the pan
Christmas
GOURMET GIFTS
PAGE 43
“Meat should be a celebration...”
ISSUE 15 WINTER 2016
NEIL RANKIN
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Every carnivore’s favourite chef keeps it low and slow
11/10/2016 09:52
GASTRO WINE
“Champagne values…” HAS TO REMAIN TRUE TO ITS
A s t he heiress t o t he worl d - f amou s C hamp ag n e, V it al ie T ait t in g er is p art of t he atest generation of this fi y dynasty. n an ex cl u siv e in t erv iew, she rev eal s what it ’ s l ike t o be t he cu st od ian of su ch a t reasu red an d eading wine producer and why she s excited about what ies ahead for her industry
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There’s room for everyone in the sparkling wine market, and it’s positive for sparkling wine as a whole that so many countries are making and drinking this wonderful stuff
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Vitalie Taittinger
t’s never easy to let go of something you love – especially when that something is a legacy of one of the world’s most iconic Champagne houses. But that’s exactly what the Taittinger family did in 2005, when it sold its famous brand of sparkling wine to US private investment firm, tarwood a ital rou , along with its hotel subsidiary, Société du Louvre. It was a move that sent shockwaves through the sector, raising concerns that short term rofit would undermine the
overall quality of the Taittinger name, which had previously been family-owned and run since 1932. In 2006, however, Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger’s succession of his uncle Claude as president paved the way for a new chapter, beginning with the label’s repurchase. Since then, Pierre-Emmanuel has surrounded himself with his own new branch of the family, who have helped revive the business and bring it further into the 21st century. Along with his son and head of exports Clovis, this includes his daughter and artistic director Vitalie, who is tasked with developing and reinfor ing aittinger s image in the fields of visual identity and design globally. “It’s an honour and something the whole family – my father and brother too – all
hold precious,” she says of inheriting the prestigious birth right. “Our name and signature is on every bottle; it’s a great responsibility to uphold the family legacy of a dedication to quality, and respect all the values they’ve built over time, while taking it to the next stage in its history. “The role is so varied. I meet so many interesting and wonderful people through my position at Taittinger, and I feel very privileged. I learn about many different countries and cultures, and how we can work with each of them. Every day is unique and special.” Indeed, as well as spreading the word on a world stage, Vitalie is also its face in France and abroad, appearing in ads and marketing campaigns aplenty. With a degree from the Emile Cohl School of
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GASTRO WINE
Château de la Marquetterie
Design in Lyon, where she perfected her technique in illustration, painting and drawing, she has witnessed her father’s enterprise go from strength to strength in the past decade. “Over the last 10 years since my father headed Taittinger, I’ve seen us grow in many ways,” she explains. “We’re now sold in over 150 countries – maybe a third more than before – and I’ve seen us increase our many animations, not only in the way we present our wines through packaging and gifting, but also through many prestigious associations throughout the world.” Examples of these exclusive partnerships include BAFTA in the UK and the SAG (Screen Actors Guild) Awards in the US, to say nothing of the Nobel Peace Prize, Montreux Jazz Festival and Opéra National de Paris. It’s no wonder such equally well-known institutions are still keen to associate themselves, as the current range is stronger than ever – particularly when paired with battered cod, apparently. “The Brut Reserve, our signature cuvée, goes from strength to strength,” continues Vitalie. “It’s the benchmark for Taittinger and is perfect as an aperitif on its own, or with delicate canapés. My favourite match for this wine is with your traditional fish and hi s – a great combination. In France, we tend to match it to small, salty biscuits, or light-as-air cheese gougeres, but I love the British match very much.”
Today, Taittinger’s 288-hectare vineyard in Reims spans 34 different crus, among the best in the Champagne region. Divided into 37% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir, and 15% Pinot Meunier, it marvellously re e ts the wines uni ue styles, in which Chardonnay plays a paramount role by contributing elegance and freshness. Which doesn’t make it any easier to decide on a favourite, however. “Ah, they’re like my children; there is no favourite – I love them all!” Vitalie insists. “But maybe I like different wines at different times: in the summer with my girlfriends, maybe the Prestige Rosé, and then maybe Prélude before dinner, the Brut Reserve at any time, and our rare and unique Comtes de Champagne for special celebrations. I’m spoiled for choice.”
Not a bad position to be in, but of course, one would expect nothing less from the variety produced in ham agne. ade u of five ar els of land, the vineyard unites the company’s history and heritage, while Saint Nicaise Abbey remains its seat in Reims. In addition, the Residence of the Counts of Champagne has been restored to host receptions, exhibits and concerts, and Château de la Marquetterie has played host to some of the most illustrious figures in ham agne s history. “Champagne is controlled by many strict laws, and the name is protected,” reveals Vitalie. “We have the ideal soils and climate for growing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes, which are the only grapes used to make Champagne. And we have centuries of winemaking tradition, which gives us an unprecedented wealth of experience and knowledge. All of this combines to help us make world-class bubbles. We’re very lucky.” But luck is only part of the Taittinger story. As the wine trade becomes increasingly competitive, Vitalie has had to stay ahead of the game, innovating and diversifying how she promotes and showcases her family’s output, while respecting and upholding what’s come before. But as far as she’s concerned, more major players can only be a good thing, both for her family and her chosen profession. “It’s simple – that we remain true to our family values,” she concludes. “The world of both still and sparkling wine is an exciting one. There are so many countries making excellent wines now, and this is constantly growing – I love the diversity. “There’s room for everyone in the sparkling wine market, and it’s positive for sparkling wine as a whole that so many countries are making and drinking this wonderful stuff. Each has a different style and image, and it provides everyone with an amazing, diverse choice. Champagne has to remain true to its values, but it’s an exciting time.” www.taittinger.com
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GASTRO HAIRY BIKERS
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Hairy Bikers
“WE’RE LIKE A PAIR OF OLD COMFY SLIPPERS IN THE KITCHEN…” The Hairy Bikers have been to the ends of the Earth and back again for their many television and cookbook adventures. Frederick Latty catches up with i in an a e yers who on ly refle t on more than two e a es o ri in cooking and discovering a world of gourmet possibilities together
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW HAYES-WATKINS
V cooks don’t come much more down-to-Earth, big-hearted or larger-than-life than the Hairy Bikers. Over the past two decades, the eponymous pair of Si King and Dave Myers have donned their helmets, re e their en ines an set o on a multitu e o epicurean outings worldwide, exuding a level of infectious excitement, enthusiasm and passion rarely seen on the small screen. Indeed, a mutual love of food and bikes has led the dynamic duo to a shared culinary dream, travelling the globe in pursuit of great grub, with the wind in their hair and nothing but the open road ahead of them. Together, they’ve created brand new recipes, given their own fresh takes on the classics, and become national treasures in the process. “We’ve been cooking together for over 20 years, and it’s still as much fun,” says Dave. “We’re like a pair of old comfy slippers in the kitchen – it just works. There are jobs that I do and jobs that Si does, but we just seem to get on well together. There’s a passion and camaraderie, plus we get to eat and drink at the end of it.” It’s this boundless energy and positivity that’s driven their careers. Hailing from Newcastle and Barrow-in-Furness respectively, Si, 49, and Dave, 58, both started out in TV – the ormer as a rst assistant ire tor an lo ations mana er the latter as a makeup and prosthetic artist. From meeting on the set of a Catherine Cookson adaptation, they’ve been thick as thieves ever since. n the time ollowin that rst ate ul en ounter the oys have written a total of 15 books to date. From The Hairy B ik ers’
P erf ec t P ies, 1 2 Days of C hristm as, B ig B ook of B ak in g and G reat C u rries, to three phenomenally successful diet books, they e toppe the non tion harts time an time a ain perhaps most nota ly when their rst ietin ui e topple 5 0 S hades of G rey in the summer of 2012. heir most re ent o erin The Hairy Dieters: Fast Food, provides delicious low calorie recipes that can all be made in under 30 minutes. Elsewhere, the Hairy Bikers Diet Club endeavours to help people lose weight and eat more healthily, without compromising on uality fla our or su stan e s su h they e become model celebrity chefs, making their meals as fun as they are nutritious. The culinary couple’s just as popular on television, starring in hits like M eal s on W heel s, M u m K n ow s B est and B est of B ritish (which attracted upwards of 1.7million viewers per episode), as well as The Hairy B ik ers’ B ak eation , M ississip p i A dv en tu re and A sian A dv en tu re. They’ve certainly come a long way and been to some ar flun pla es ut ne er lose tou h with their quintessentially British roots. “Growing up in the North of England has been great for me as a cook,” Dave continues. “There’s a generosity of spirit about northern food, both in portion si es an fla ours um ria my home ounty has some o the best food in the world, and our food’s always been interesting, from the black-peppery Cumberland sausage, to our Grasmere Gingerbread. It’s not always so grim up North!” It was here where both men used to separately spend their time oo in an ri in while rowin up e elopin a lo e a air with hogs and haute in equal measure. These passions have become integral parts of their lives throughout adulthood, but
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GASTRO HAIRY BIKERS
We’ve been cooking together for over 20 years, and it’s still as much fun. There’s a passion and camaraderie, plus we get to eat and drink at the end of it
there’s no dividing the two when it comes to deciding which is their preferred interest. “We can’t separate the motorcycling from the cooking – we love them both,” they insist. “Although, the older we get, the crunchier our knees get, so the motorcycling tends to be saved for the warmer weather, and the kitchen is our natural habitat. e e almost li e parallel li es althou h we ha ery i erent upbringings, we both got into cooking as young boys and biking before we were really legally old enough. They were two mutual passions, so when we met – put together with our zest for a good time – we both knew we were going to have fun. There are a few more years of riding, cooking, eating and madness in us yet!” That certainly appears to be the case for these two ravenous ramblers. With another delectable excursion lined up this autumn, there’s still plenty of dishes to eat, countries to see and journeys to make. To that end, here’s hoping that their knees don’t get too crunchy anytime soon, and that we can continue to
tag along for the ride for many more years to come, in the company of our favourite petrolheads. “There are a lot of places where we’d love to go to cook and explore,” they conclude. “We’ve always gone to countries that are on the edge of the radar in culinary terms. We haven’t done much in the Mediterranean or South America, and reckon Canada or Russia would be really interesting. As for Africa, we haven’t scratched the surface…so many travels and dinners, so little time!” www.hairybikers.com Read on for a recipe from | The Hairy Dieters: Fast Food, available now, priced £14.99, from Weidenfeld & Nicolson
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GASTRO PHOTOGRAPHY
The days of mashed potato for ice cream and engine oil for syrup have long gone...
No recipe or cookbook would be complete without an unforgettable photograph to illustrate it. Andrew Perris, head photographer at Photography Firm in Lewes, tells us what it takes to make the most of a foodie shoot, and explains why sumptuous snapshots are more than just a flash in the pan PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW PERRIS
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hey say a picture’s worth a thousand words. It’s an i iom that most e nitely rings true when it comes to food photography, as mouth-watering gourmet shots are more pre alent to ay than e er e ore s ar as n rew erris hea photo rapher at hoto raphy irm in ewes is on erne the process of capturing those perfect foodie photos is nothing short of an organic art form in its own right. or me a per e t oo shot is one that loo s e ortless he says ometimes that mi ht ta e hours to a hie e while other times it mi ht e a ra shot that you weren t expe tin to e spe ial t s art a ter all so there are no har an ast rules li e to maintain a relaxe approa h
soun o ious ut it s ery true y wi e an o to e an tal a out what we re oin to ma e or rea ast then we ll eat our rea ast tal in a out what we re oin to oo or inner e et ex ite y new restaurants eauti ul in re ients an e en it henware so it s easier or me to capture that excitement in my images, whi h is what it s all a out
to e ery shoot an let thin s happen as naturally as possi le ith o er years experien e n rew spe ialises in hi h en interiors pro u t an ommer ial photo raphy an oun e hoto raphy irm in with wi e an stu io mana er elen s well as lothin architecture, interiors and accessories, the usiness shoots a wealth o oo an rin ontent or whi h no shorta e o ulinary passion an te hni al prowess is re uire ou e ot to lo e oo an all thin s asso iate ontinues n rew t mi ht
o ay n rew ire ts a team o photo raphers at the rm an o ersees all shoots while also mana in trainin o ere to lients who wish to arry out their own in-house photography. rom ully style a ertisin oo an rin shoots to pa a in ima ery an point o sale material oo is one o his a ourite spe ialisms an an area he always enjoys wor in in re shoot prep is ey to allowin you to e relaxe on the ay he explains e ll always resear h re ipes in a an e
an ome up with a well alan e shot list e ll ha e a plan in pla e or the props in re ients an nal style o shots that we want to achieve. Being organised and ha in a lear stru ture to the or er o the ay a tually allows more time to ha e un with the set an stylin n ee there s a i i eren e etween ein a reat oo photo rapher an a
Exposure to good food photography is a positive on the whole. People are certainly becoming more visually literate
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great food stylist. The latter requires not only a keen eye for detail, but also an artistic and creative vision for how a gastronomic set-up should look. Making dishes photogenic is no easy task, so it’s essential for people like Andrew to come to every job armed with an array of techniques to ensure meals look their best.
“On a more practical level and love of food aside, I have to be able to produce top-quality results, day in and day out, so a good measure of technical knowledge is essential,” he insists. “My background is varied and includes some very specialist studio and lifestyle shoots, in hugely varied locations and conditions. Food photography isn’t just about one or the other n m onstantly allin on all my i erent experien es Of course, media and the internet have been instrumental in making food
photography as popular as it is today, openin up ri h i rant an ex itin possibilities. From social media platforms like Instagram and Pinterest, to beautifully illustrated cookbooks from celebrity chefs, budding cooks have never had it easier when isualisin how the nal result o a recipe should look. “It’s not really that long ago that cookbooks didn’t have any photographs in them n rew refle ts thin to ay that any recipe, whether in a blog, article or cookbook, that’s not accompanied by some
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pretty stunning photography just wouldn’t get looked at. Social media has had a huge impact too, with food images being up there in the top shares. Just do a search on Instagram to see the fantastic levels of amateur food photography out there – it keeps me on my toes!” What’s more, it’s levelled out the playin el or amateur an pro essional photographers alike, who have equal opportunities to showcase their work, be it as a fulltime career, or a part-time hobby. Contrarily, there’s an argument to e ma e that a ulture o hashta s lters an sel es has epre iate the ra t s alue but Andrew continues to remain optimistic about its accessibility. “Exposure to good food photography is a positive on the whole,” he considers. “People are certainly becoming more visually literate. Has it hindered food photography? I don’t think so, but it does mean you have to be pretty damn good and constantly evolving, but that’s a good thing. “Kids are doing a lot more cooking these days, which is fantastic, and they certainly need a good photo to be inspired by. Gone are the days when recipes were so precise and the photos alongside them so unattainable that it actually discouraged people from trying recipes, or they needed to set aside a whole day. It’s nothing now to look up a pretty appealing recipe and have it on your plate in minutes, ready to be photographed on your 20-megapixel phone camera, and then enjoyed.” So, what are some of the most photogenic foods to shoot? According to Andrew, anything freshly prepared is a joy to work with, such as fruits and vegetables, as are colourful spices and condiments. Casseroles and stews can be trickier to get right, but for any food photography, styling, props and lighting are all key elements to have in place before clicking the shutter. “The ability to source food all year round is a major advantage,” says Andrew. “Technology is evolving, but isn’t key to producing good results, though of course it can make getting those results easier. The quality of phone cameras has probably had a bigger impact.
Picture Perfect Andrew offers 10 top tips for becoming an expert food photographer • Don’t get bogged down with the need for kit – entry-level DSLRs are pretty good these days
“Exposure to food photography is massive; it’s everywhere you look and is almost up there with fashion. One of the nicest progressions is the demand for natural looking food rather than heavily perfected dishes. Thankfully, the days of mashed potato for ice cream and engine oil for syrup have long gone!” Trends have certainly developed over the years o refle t the han in tastes o what snappers and snackers look for, there’s been a call for shots that are more stripped back and laid bare, but Andrew suspects things could just as easily go in a rustic, earthy direction. Whatever the future holds, food and photography continue to walk hand in hand. “Food photography has a great future,” n rew on lu es he shi t is e nitely and has been for a while, towards healthy eating, accessible recipes, frugal reuse of food and organic. There are so many directions that the rise of food and photography will continue to keep food at its stardom level.” www.photographyfirm.co.uk
• Get a longer lens – something like a 105mm macro if you can. Don’t overlook your standard 50mm lens, though; these are mass-produced and offer great value and nice wide apertures • Get a decent tripod – a must if working with daylight • Take inspiration from others – find shots you like and try and mimic the lighting, but not the content • Practise – find your own style, don’t copy • Use the freshest ingredients • Don’t labour shots that aren’t working – move on and try something different • Get critiqued – there are plenty of places, from forums to other pros • Start simple – don’t be overly ambitious. One of the first things I ever photographed at college was an egg. Try it; it will soon give you an idea of how different types of light work • Get out and photograph things that aren’t food – people, products and landscapes. You’ll pick up valuable styles and techniques that you would never have thought relevant
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GASTRO COOKERY
The key is that everyone brings a
bigg smile big appetite and a
T here’ s a weal t h of cookery school s l ocat ed across K en t , ussex and urrey where you can be sure to find a course to get your creati e uices owing. a id i ott of our ab es ood Academy spi s the beans on why this fruitfu urry is cau sin g su ch a f ood ie f ren z y t hrou g hou t t he S ou t h E ast
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hether you’re a budding home cook or an aspiring professional chef, cookery schools are a great place to start your gastronomic journey. Educational, fun and sociable in equal measure, these culinary courses are readily available and hugely popular all over the South East, where trained and experienced teachers await to show anyone with a thirst for gourmet knowledge the ropes. “Food in general has become hugely and impart as much knowledge as we can, popular over the last 10 years and is very are kept small and intimate to ensure a as well as just making recipes.” personalised day out, where one-on-one in-vogue,” says David Gillott, director of Perhaps most importantly, a love of fun interaction helps participants hone their Four Gables Food Academy in Ashtead, and creativity is paramount, as patrons are skills in a conducive atmosphere. Surrey. “I hear quite often that people encouraged to try new things, regardless “We always wanted to keep the course are keen to spend their disposable of their overall skill level. David and his sizes quite small, so we purposefully only incomes on things that teach them team take their clients’ feedback seriously, take up to six people, which gives us the something. Cooking is quite a good however, tweaking and adapting thing to learn if you don’t know recipes and ideas to make things much about it, because you even more immersive going do it most days, and it’s also forward, while taking advantage quite sociable.” of the latest industry tastes and Anything we can do to inspire For David, who set his sights trends in the process. on becoming a chef from the anyone to do a bit more cooking “We change the course recipes age of 13, opening his own is e nite a thin every two months, so that they stay business was a natural career nice and seasonal, but also give progression. Having cheffed hat s hat it s a a t an us the opportunity to encompass in some of London’s top the more of that type of story new things,” explains David. “We restaurants – starting at the do anything we like, hear about or Michelin-starred 1 Lombard e an eate the ette want to do. People are interested Street, where he completed his in applying lots of different spices apprenticeship – he moved to to their dishes, so we’ve got a bit of the French Alps to work in the a focus on that at the moment. Courcheval ski resort, before Lots of people have also requested opportunity to do lots of different things,” launching Four Gables in 2012. learning to cook different types of foods David continues. “We tend to make Along with fellow chefs Adam Blanchard from different continents, which is probably between six and nine recipes, but and Kieran Farquhar, David offers ‘fun, because they’re much better travelled and at the same time, there’s a real focus relaxed and cheffy’ classes for up to more open than they were before.” on knife skills and various different six people. Topics range from Fusion, Seasonality is indeed crucial. With a kinds of cheffy techniques. We’re all BBQ and Indian, to Sweet Treats, Tapas view to being self suffi ient, our Michelin-trained chefs here, so we try and Flavours of the Med, but groups Gables keeps its own chickens and fruit orchard, grows its own vegetables, and rears its own pigs and lambs for meat. All of this is put to good use in cyclical courses throughout the year, which are tailored s e ifi ally to what rodu e is at its best, be it game in autumn and winter, or veggies in spring. The school’s demographic is a wide cross-section of age ranges across the
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Here’s how to recreate one of Four Gables’ recipes at home...
board, with a split of 60% men and 40% women. David credits London’s in uen e of to restaurants and e i urean events for the surrounding ome ounties infatuation with food and drink; as for his own job satisfaction, he s more than ha y to be dealing directly with people in a more hands-on, interactive environment. One reason we love it is be ause its very ustomer fa ing, whereas, in a restaurant, you re stu oo ing behind a wall,” he reveals. “Everyone in the team really li es wor ing with eo le, so its a ni e way of us doing something similar and im arting our nowledge, but dire tly to eo le who want to now about it. e definitely don t ta e ourselves too seriously, and there s no ordon amsay style shouting or swearing. It s got to be fun as mu h as anything else, and the ey thing, whether it s me ta ing one of the ourses, or one of the other chefs, is that we want people to leave on first name terms and loo forward to oming ba . If avid s levels of infe tious enthusiasm are anything to go by,
they most certainly will, as he and his talented brigade ontinue to ma e oo ing easily a essible and enjoyable for all who wish to learn. And with the amount of oo ery s hools only growing in our art of the world, business is ositively booming not only for our ables, but for hefs in their shoes around the region. nything we an do to ins ire anyone to do a bit more oo ing is definitely a good thing, he on ludes. “We have people who come back on different ourses over a eriod of time, and it’s really lovely to hear that they’ve been ins ired further to do a bit more than they were doing reviously. Our ob satisfa tion is that erson who emails a ou le of wee s later saying that they ve twea ed one of our re i es a little bit, utting their own s in on it and ma ing it one of their signature dishes. hat s what it s all about, and the more of that ty e of story we an reate, the better. he absolute ey for us is that everyone brings a big smile and a big a etite. www.fourgablesfoodacademy.com
T hai cocon u t an d v eg et abl e brot h S erv es 1 2 I n t ermed iat e T akes 2 5 min u t es I n g red ien t s 1½ tbsp Thai curry paste 1 tsp vegetable oil 1 litre vegetable stock 400ml can half-fat coconut milk 2 tsp brown sugar 175g medium egg noodles 2 carrots, cut into matchsticks ½ x 300g bag beansprouts 6 cherry tomatoes, halved Juice of 1 lime 3 spring onions, halved, then ne s i e en th a s Handful of coriander, roughly chopped D irect ion s • Place the curry paste in a large saucepan or wok with the oil and fry for one minute until fragrant. Tip in the vegetable stock, coconut milk and brown sugar and simmer for three minutes • Add the noodles and carrots and simmer for four to six minutes until all are tender, then mix in the beansprouts and tomatoes. Add the lime juice to taste and some extra seasoning if you like. Spoon into bowls and sprinkle with spring onions and coriander C hef ’ s t ip Many curry pastes contain dried shrimp an sh sa e s ea the a e s carefully if you want to make this a vegetarian dish. If you’re cooking this for meat-eaters, try adding shredded leftover roast chicken.
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GASTRO T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A WA R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A W A R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
BLOGGING BYTES
How social media is stirring up an online foodie frenzy PAGE 67
RAVENOUS RESEARCH Gourmet scientists put Kent food under the microscope PAGE 55
Art of the Craft
Witness the rise of Britain’s top independent breweries PAGE 45
VINTAGE VOCATION What it takes to become a professional wine steward PAGE 77
“The kitchen is our natural habitat…”
ISSUE 14 AUTUMN 2016
HAIRY BIKERS
SI KING AND DAVE MYERS ON 20 YEARS OF FREEWHEELING FARE
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NOW MORE THAN EVER, PEOPLE ARE SITTING UP AND TAKING NOTICE OF JUST HOW SPECIAL PUB GRUB CAN BE. AND AS THE ANNUAL BUDWEISER BUDVAR TOP 5O GASTRO PUB AWARDS DEMONSTRATE, OUR INDUSTRY IS RAISING THE BAR WITH INNOVATIVE, PIONEERING MENUS. WE LOOK AT SOME OF THIS YEAR’S WINNERS TO FIND OUT WHY
SUMMER 2015
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s a nation, we Brits are renowned worldwide for such iconic staples as stiff upper lips, James Bond and cups of tea. But if there’s one institution that has contributed more to our identity than any other over the centuries, it’s the Great British pub. Indeed, gastro pubs have come a long way in recent years, offering food that rivals the finest dining, complete with Michelin stars, critical acclaim and reputations for using only the highest quality produce available. Which isn’t to say they’ve lost touch with their roots, as they still know how to pull a good pint of ale and retain their much-loved rustic charm. It’s a testament to the impeccably high standards now set, that the Morning Advertiser hosts the Budweiser Budvar Top 5O Gastro Pub Awards every year, showcasing the best of the best taverns, inns and watering holes the UK has to offer. At this prestigious event, pub restaurants from all over Britain are judged by the Top 5O Gastro Pubs Voting Academy; made up of pub operators, food writers, industry chefs and pub guide editors, the panel is broken down into six geographical voting regions, with an equal number of votes collected in each. Needless to say, it really is the industry’s choice. Hosted by last year’s winner, celebrity chef Tom Kerridge (whose Hand and Flowers in Marlow, Buckinghamshire was named number one at the 2O14 ceremony), the latest awards were no exception to the quality we as a country have come to expect from our locals. To give you an idea of who’s flying the flag for our industry, we profile the top 1O and find out why they’re taking our food and drink culture to new and exciting heights. Read on to find out more about this year’s winners…
THE PONY & TRAP Location: Chew Magna, Bristol Opened: 2OO6 Michelin stars: Chef Patron: Josh Eggleton From the menu: Crispy risotto, celeriac, truffle, mushroom and artichoke Brother and sister duo, Josh and Holly Eggleton, own and run this award winning country pub. With Josh managing the kitchen and Holly overseeing front of house, the pair champion a ‘field to fork’ ethos, with food sourced as locally as possible from the region’s best growers and producers. Their talented chefs, wine experts and waiting staff serve varied menus that change daily and are enhanced by unrivalled views of the Chew Valley. www.theponyandtrap.co.uk
THE SPORTSMAN Location: Whitstable, Kent Opened: 1999 Michelin stars: Head Chefs: Stephen Harris, Dan Flavell From the menu: Apple sorbet and burnt cream Serving good food in relaxed, informal surroundings, The Sportsman can be found in the Kent village of Seasalter and offers dishes inspired by the surrounding area. Seafood comes from the nearby Thames Estuary, while marshland, woods and fertile soils provide the pub’s meat, vegetables and game. A kitchen garden puts handpicked fruits and vegetables on the menus too, which include pumpkin soup with wild mushroom and braised brill fillet with a mussel and bacon tartare. www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk
THE PIPE AND GLASS INN Location: Beverley, East Yorkshire Opened: 2OO6 Michelin stars: Chef Patron: James Mackenzie From the menu: ‘Lyonnais’ omelette with mature cheddar with scallion and chive salad Owned and managed by married couple, James and Kate Mackenzie, The Pipe and Glass boasts a warm, welcoming restaurant and spectacular conservatory overlooking the garden, all while retaining its original country pub feel. Menus change regularly, while private dining experiences – including cookery demos from James – are available upstairs in the Hotham Room, or you can stay the night in one of two luxurious ‘Sage and Thyme’ boutique suites. www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Images: Philip Harris
Images: Tony Bartholomew
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THE PLOUGH INN Location: Andover, Hampshire Opened: 2O12 AA Rosettes: Chef Patron: James Durrant From the menu: oasted monk sh cauliflo er, ok choi, chicken roth Here’s a traditional country pub with a contemporary feel, situated in the village of Longparish in Hampshire’s picturesque Test Valley. Chef Patron James Durrant was one of the four winning chefs in last year’s Great British Menu and, along with a team that includes Head Chef James Salkeld and Sous Chef Phil Bishop, has earned two prestigious AA Rosettes. og burning fires and a cosy atmosphere help retain its original 18th century character and charm. www.theploughinn.info
FREEMASONS AT WISWELL Location: Clitheroe, Lancashire Opened: 2OO9 AA Rosettes: Chef Patron: teven mith From the menu: En lish rose veal roast topside, French style peas, sauce of Madeira An elegant and relaxed rural setting provides the backdrop for the stylish, award-winning Freemasons. Located in the ‘chocolate box’ village of Wiswell, the inn has a striking interior, complete with flagstone floors, anti ue furniture and period paintings. Sophisticated food in a homely atmosphere is the name of the game for Chef Patron Steven Smith, whose modern adaptation of traditional pub favourites provides the ultimate gastronomic experience. www.freemasonsatwiswell.com
THE STAR INN Location: Harome, North Yorkshire Opened: 1996 Michelin stars: Chef Patron: ndre ern From the menu: Dark chocolate and arden lemon thyme torte ith cottish ras erries Enjoy some ‘home-cured Harome hospitality’ in a picturesque village on the edge of the North Yorkshire Moors. Specialising in a ‘modern Yorkshire’ style of cooking, Chef Patron Andrew Pern places great emphasis on regional and seasonal ingredients. The Star regained its Michelin star this year, having previously held the accolade consistently from 2OO2 to 2O11. It even has its own unique nine-bedroom hotel, Cross House Lodge, just across the road. www.thestaratharome.co.uk
THE ROYAL OAK Location: ittle eld reen, Berkshire Opened: 2OO1 Michelin stars: Head Chef: Michael Chapman From the menu: outh o ns lam rum , s eet read, avoy ca a e cre inette, sauce reform Beamed ceilings and wooden floors await behind the smart black and white frontage of this 17th century pub on Paley Street. Serving ‘British food cooked to perfection’, Head Chef Michael Chapman selects the best seasonal produce to create dishes that are unpretentious and full of flavour. A wine list of over 5OO titles, a charming, modern garden and a relaxed, friendly and non-intrusive service likewise makes for an unforgettable visit. www.theroyaloakpaleystreet.com
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THE GUNTON ARMS Location: Norwich, Norfolk Opened: 2O11 Head Chef: Stuart Tattersall From the menu: Slow roast shoulder of lamb with spring bubble and squeak If you want to stay in a historic, 1,OOO-acre deer park, look no further than the eight-bedroom Gunton Arms in the Norfolk village of Thorpe Market. Fresh, local and seasonal ingredients are on the menu from Head Chef Stuart Tattersall, whose experience at restaurateur Mark Hix’s London eateries has brought with it a vigorous, ingredient-led style of cooking. The restaurant uses venison from the surrounding deer park and seafood, mussels and Cromer crab are caught by fishermen from the surrounding area. www.theguntonarms.co.uk
THE GURNARD’S HEAD Location: St Ives, Cornwall Opened: 2OO6 Head Chef: Jack Clayton From the menu: on t mackerel, soused vegetable, crème fraîche, crispy capers You’ll find a slower pace of life at this seven-bedroom Cornish inn, which is complemented by views of awe-inspiring landscapes and the foaming Atlantic. At its heart, the pub remains very much a place for locals and prides itself on short, fresh menus, which change daily based on what suppliers bring to their back door. For Head Chef Jack Clayton, it’s all about seasonality and what’s at its best at any given time of year. www.gurnardshead.co.uk
THE TRUSCOTT ARMS Location: Maida Vale, London Opened: 2O12 AA Rosettes: Head Chef: Aidan McGee From the menu: 35-day, dry-aged ribeye with girolle mushrooms and fondant potatoes tylishly decorated and flooded with natural light, The Truscott Arms boasts a large downstairs bar, decked garden, open restaurant and private dining and function rooms. Owners Andrew and Mary Jane Fishwick transformed every detail of the space, with their kitchen team combining the finest British seasonal ingredients and cooking techni ues to offer something different for every type of appetite. www.thetruscottarms.com Images: Paul Heneker
o nd out more a out the o astro u ards and read u on the latest news and winners, visit www.top5Ogastropubs.co.uk
Images: Paul Massey
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GASTRO FORAGING
Wild WHERE THE
I t’ s a tradition that dates b ac k f rom
THINGS ARE
tim e im m em orial , b u t f orag in g is n ow
c reatin g a b ig g er b u z z than ev er b ef ore. To g et to g rip s w ith w hat al l the f u ss is ab ou t, w e c hat to N ic k W eston f rom
Hu n ter G ather C ook in E ast S u ssex , w ho
tel l s u s w hy so m an y p eop l e are tak in g u p this top p astoral p astim e
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hether you realise it or not, chances are you’ve tried your hand at foraging at one time or another. From picking wild berries in the hedgerows down your garden path, to the ineffable taste of that slimy grub your friends dared you to eat in your youth, everyone has their own childhood memories of engaging with nature and unearthing its delights with their bare hands.
For people like Nick Weston, founder of Sussex-based foraging and cookery school, Hunter Gather Cook, it’s this sense of nostalgia that has been well and truly capitalised on throughout Britain in recent years. Indeed, the activity’s resurgence has seen men, women and children alike embark on rambling adventures th h ests an e s a e the tin a n i sh s t fles an an thin e se the an n
Read on Æ
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“Foraging has always been part of life in the UK, certainly in the countryside,” says Nick. “Most people interact with it from an early age through blackberry picking or scrumping for apples, and everyone learns to avoid stinging nettles when they’re young! Aside from restaurants driving the trend, with chefs looking for different and ni e i fla s thin e a ant to try new and different things. Foraging is about going back to our roots, and also builds a backstory to the ingredient, how you got it and the adventure behind it.” Led by Michelin-starred chef René Redzepi’s trailblazing restaurant Noma in Copenhagen – which has topped the annual World’s 50 Best Restaurants list four times since 2010 – gourmet movements like Scandinavia’s New Nordic Cuisine have helped develop foraging from a rural pursuit for anoraks, to the on-trend, in-vogue concept it is today. Celebrity cooks closer to home have
helped promote the trend too, advocating the use of fresh, local and seasonal produce, and pushing natural ingredients to the fore of foodie fashion, at a time when the recession has made the prospect of free food all the more appetising. Current fads aside, the wonder and discovery that goes hand in hand with being a ‘21st-century hunter-gatherer’ remains its greatest appeal, and nowhere is this more prevalent than in our part of the world. “The South East of England, and the Weald in particular, is a rich, lush landscape that varies between heathland, mixed woodland, meadows and the South Downs,” Nick explains. “That variation in landscape means we have a lot of different game, plants and fungi available to us.” And this is certainly the case at Hunter athe ase in the s e s and meadows of Beddingham, on a 40-acre farm near Lewes in East Sussex, the school was started by Nick in 2011 and specialises in game butchery, wild cocktails and outdoor cookery, as well as identifying, processing and cooking a range of wild plants and animals to a high standard. Courses are run by a skilled team of passi nate h nte s a e s he s an e masters, who teach fundamental skills and transform the surrounding landscape into a gastronomic larder, workshop and kitchen. “For me, foraging has nothing to do with hea th n t iti n it s a a t fla an how to pair wild plants with the animals
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GASTROFORAGING
we hunt that eat those plants,” continues Nick. “At Hunter Gather Cook, we teach pe p e h t ha ness th se fla s an in p ate the int thei e e a i es i e an in st that th i es n the e pense nat a es es s staina i it is a e n e n an a e n in s an ten et h he t s s hi h has e in pa t at east t et i enta e i a e e ts an the pp siti n an a es t s a en in p t an e ia ain s a es t i an his tea a e e i ate t ens in thei p a ti es a e as en i n enta ien as p ssi e the sta at ae itte a ni es s e tea h a t ani a t he i sa s a in eat is e i p tant e tain hen it es t ee as the ent p p ati n is a t nt e t ha in n nat a p e at s a in p ants espe ia sh s has t e ne ith s staina i it in in an n t ha e t h an i pa t hen ha estin s the itse the p ssi i ities a e see in en ess se the i es h ea n e hittin sta an i e ate ha e inspi e i i ns ea e s an ie e s t a pt a e app a h t in hi h has e nite ne a n a in e atin the p i a t the an ene ts a a e in the at e s nat a a e t as a as the tea at is n e ne the e sati it hat s n e is st as i p tant as the a it
t a e epen s hat p an t ith the a e in e ients n es i he e a sta s hen sh ase p pe an in the i ht nte t e a in i tai s a e ies an e p tt se a in n e e e a a e ea s eet an e p ess e in se int a ain a a ea s eet a a tini ith sh s a ep a pa i ith s e a n an a i n essin is eat t sh ase the s eet n tt fla the ep he enti e it hen at ns e an s e an e spe ia ise in tea hin in with these techniques, as there’s so much fla in e ith enis n e a t it in asi a in the eat i e t n h t as ai e et ith a s e e e e s is a a s a inne n ses t a s n s e i i s an n in e a t he e e e thin es n se es t s eh a e it see e en e in itin a te a hen t an a t nas e st inte an e ne e n hat e in t st e a ss t inspi e that ne t ina eati n t that s st the thin a t a in the is n the e innin the a ent e Hunter Gather Cook is based near Lewes in East Sussex and offers seasonal day and private courses, corporate and teambuilding days and stag and hen parties. Courses are not suitable for vegetarians and cater specifically for adults. To find out more, visit www.huntergathercook.com
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Rachel Khoo
“FOOD IS THE EASIEST WAY TO TRAVEL”
Food should be enjoyable and fun, and if you make a mistake, it’s not the end of the world, because you can a a s n a a t it
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LARA MESSER
GASTRO RACHEL KHOO
he s the oo who e ortlessly om ines oo tra el style an esi n in ea h an e ery one o her re ipes or a hel hoo it s all a out remainin open min e to new an inno ati e ways o ein reati e where er they mi ht ome rom re eri atty n s out more in our ex lusi e hat
S
ometimes inspiration an e oun in all in s o i erent pla es ust as a hel hoo whose journey rom u in esi ner to he has ta en her aroun the worl an a a ain n ee the L ittl e P aris K itc hen star has ma e her name throu h an insatia le appetite or oo an tra el oth o whi h ha e helpe shape an e ne her as the oo she is to ay orn in roy on outh on on to a alaysian ather an ustrian mother in the year ol enjoye a multi ultural up rin in when it ame to oo n parti ular she was expose to a lo e o a in an patisserie rom an early a e a passion that woul stay with her or many years to ome hen was a i remem er a in a lot o in er rea an a es with my mum lo e a in an e en ha a san pit where woul ma e my own san a es e orate them with aisies an preten ha a a ery t was this reati ity an ima ination that le a youn a hel to the renowne entral aint artins olle e o rt an esi n in on on where she ra uate with a a helor s e ree nitially wor in in an mar etin or the luxury ashion se tor it wasn t lon e ore a thirst or a enture lure her to aris where she uali e with a pastry e ree rom the worl amous e or on leu oo ery s hool tu yin in aris was a li e experien e in terms o learnin the lan ua e an is o erin another ulture oul ha e one the ourse anywhere in the worl it was more the experien e o ein in ran e an aris oin to the mar et e ery wee an seein the ama in heese shops an ulture o oo there that was more eye openin an li e han in he ity whi h she woul all home or the est part o a e a e ertainly apti ate her perhaps most nota ly when she ot a jo in a o otte a ulinary oo store an tea salon where she woul on o t sweet treats ater or oo oo laun hes an host oo ery lasses onsite meetin an networ in with li emin e oo writers alon the way
usin her two passions o oo an esi n a hel s interest in ourmet stylin helpe pa e the way or he ittle aris it hen a small restaurant t or just two iners at a time whi h she ran out o her aris flat in the elle ille nei h ourhoo tilisin so ial me ia to ull e e t the restaurant trie an teste re ipes or the a ompanyin oo oo an series whi h woul ain its proprietor a loyal an ase propellin her to me ia personality status he moral o the story is that har wor an persisten e pays o assion is reat ut it s a lot o har wor an i you want to ea he you e ot to learn how to oo rst ou also ha e to now your s ill i you on t now what you re tal in a out then people see throu h you strai htaway o pro lems there as a hel s epi urean a entures aroun the worl ha e meant that she s a opte a reewheelin approa h to oo with a note oo an amera always lose to han she ontinues to use a multitu e o i erent ultures an uisines into a astronomi style that s unmista a ly her own a in a multi ultural a roun has influen e the way oo ou an n inspiration in many i erent areas an shoul always e open to is o erin more whi h is why tra el is so important e ause when you tra el you shoul e open not just to oo ut to ulture lan ua e an many many i erent aspe ts hat s reat a out oo or me is that an in orporate so many i erent a enues o reati ity an the people meet on my journeys are e nitely the ones who inspire me most i en her multinational inheritan e a hel s wan erlust ma es per e t sense as she s em ar e on tantalisin trips to some o the worl s nest oo ie estinations ot least o these was Two’s A C ook A b road in whi h she was one o six ele rity he s to explore a ountry that has in orme or inspire their oo in areer n her episo e a hel enture to alaysia to n out more a out her ulinary herita e oo is the easiest way to tra el rom your so a or it hen m intereste in people s stories an the story ehin the ish it s
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GASTRO RACHEL KHOO
LARA MESSER
very inspiring, enriches your work and makes it a lot more interesting. Food isn’t just about eating and giving yourself energy – it has so much cultural reference to look at and explore.” Exploration is key to everything Rachel does, it seems, as she employs eye-catching designs to illustrate all elements of her work. From Pinterest to Instagram, she has brought her creations vividly to life online, sharing images, recipes and videos with an avid community of internet followers via social media, and becoming something of a poster child for the smartphone generation in the process. “With the use of visual media, you can project your ideas about food very easily; on the other side, you get food envy very easily too! You can travel from your phone and explore what people are doing across the ocean and on the other side of the globe in terms of food. t s e nitely ex itin to see all these i erent oo tren s One such example is her latest project, Khoollect. Using the strapline, ‘Finding inspiration in unlikely places’, the online lifestyle magazine aims to share ideas and inspiration with readers and users, collating all Rachel’s interests – from beauty and fashion, to recipes and DIY – under one banner that’s quintessentially ‘Khoo’. “There’s a big focus on food, travel and discovering, but also on musi ulture an the i erent people meet it s ery much community based. I really wanted a platform to be able to share those stories, and also for people to share their own ideas as well. It’s a really exciting platform and community for me to go beyond food.”
R ac hel K hoo’ s K itc hen N oteb ook is ou t n ow, p riced £ 2 0 , f rom M ichael J osep h. o find out more about R achel an d K hool l ect , v isit www.rachel khoo.com or www.khool l ect .com Read on to make a veggie version of a summer barbecue favourite from R ac hel K hoo’ s K itc hen N oteb ook …
LARA MESSER
What’s great about food for me is that I can incorporate so many different avenues of creativity, and the people eet n ne s a e e nite the ones who inspire me most
Another campaign close to her heart is Think.Eat.Save. As a partnership between UNEP, FAO and Messe Düsseldorf, the initiative promotes ways of minimising food waste in support of the UN Secretary-General’s Zero Hunger Challenge, which Rachel jumpe at the han e o promotin as an o ial supporter “As a child or young adult, you don’t really get educated at school about how to be savvy with cooking, or actually how to cook, so these skills are being lost. It’s a good campaign to get behind; not only does it save money for people, but it also makes sense not to be wasteful. We’ve become a bit removed from our food and what tastes good, so it’s all about educating people, giving them easy solutions and being savvy with your produce.” s the author o e oo oo s an presenter o multiple series – most recently R ac hel K hoo’ s K itc hen N oteb ook and as a judge on Australia’s M y K itc hen R u l es, respectively – savviness is something Rachel clearly possesses in spades. And with such a resourceful and inspirational attitude, she’s not about to change the way she looks at her cooking or her food anytime soon. “Even though I trained and worked in some very serious restaurants, I never take myself too seriously. Food should be enjoyable and fun, and if you make a mistake, it’s not the end of the worl e ause you an always n a way to x it li e to mix things up, so my style of cooking is fun and approachable, but always has a little twist to it. I don’t know how I cook; I just cook my way.”
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GASTROSTREET FOOD
n o i t u l o v e R
KITCHENS OF THE
Farmers’ markets have always been a big part of the food and drink scene in this part of the world, but now there’s something far more radical coming our way. As the street food e ent athe s pa e e n t h gourmet grub is heading out of the restaurants and onto the roadside
N
owadays, it seems like everywhere you look, good quality food is becoming more readily available up and down the UK. From pop-up restaurants to farmers’ markets, diners want to know more about their meals, where they come from and how they’re packaged and delivered. Perhaps even more importantly, people
want their food cheap and they want it n t a the i titans of Burger King, KFC and McDonald’s, the latest fast food fad is something a t ethe eshe an e e itin as the street food revolution has taken Britain by storm in recent years. Following suit from the United States, the street food phenomenon as we know it today aims to take great gastronomic
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offerings into the streets by way of mobile food trucks, vans and trailers. A back-to-basics approach is adopted, with roaming chefs setting up shop wherever their wheels take them, serving up more affordable spins on classic recipes without compromising on the quality. Simply put, these innovative purveyors and peddlers are e e nin the a e eat an en One man who’s championing the trend is Richard Johnson. As a food critic for The Independent and The Guardian as e as a e n s Taste the Nation and Channel 4’s Iron Chef the a a innin na ist and broadcaster founded the British Street Food Awards in 2010, celebrating the nation’s traders who are turning traditional dining on its head and bringing something entirely different to the table. as p in a ie e hite in e sa s i ha e een t the ni ht e e an e p n a e s nn e nin in nee st n ee an s e s stantia a h ates e en e p in a pa in anhattan eatin the est h t s an e s e e e taste thin in h an t e this at h e t asn t n e e the ne ie ashi n t n our side of the pond, as local, regional and national vendors took inspiration from their American counterparts, adapting recipes t t the landscape’s abundance of fresh, seasonal produce and catering to the nuances of British tastes and palates. n a e sh t space of time, street
food has gone from being sausages in a can to the cutting edge in itain i ha ntin es pe e e ts e of the pizzazz of the Americans – their glitz and glamour and the way they present their food in these weird and wonderful vans, trucks and trailers – but also more of the integrity of the in e ients that n in the a ast a st eet is eaten i i n pe p e a ss the world every day; hardly surprising, as easier travel opportunities and a greater exposure to more exotic cuisines has educated us no end, spurring on a new generation of intrepid eaters to try something new. And with an evere pan in ti t a is an the nan ia nst aints the e essi n it s a ati e in st that has na een i en the pp t nit t fl ish he e essi n ha s ethin t ith i sta tin it i ha sa s e p e ante a ni ht t t ee ea a e the nst aints hat st eet ei e e as the a a the excitement and the theatre, but on an affordable budget. “Lunch shouldn’t have to be £100 or a sandwich at your es the e has t e s e the a eatin he st eet that sa in e ea e ite e it as
theatrical, engaging, affordable and excited people about s ite s a i pa t is t a e pe p e aea t the the e eatin n it s n t st i ities i e n n that a e h ppin on the bandwagon; the likes of Brighton are embracing the change too, as outdoor events like Street Diner continue to attract adventurous eaters to the Kent and Sussex regions. But hi e the th aste n nties i ht sti ha e a n a to go, the area’s bountiful ingredients and popular farmers’ markets have certainly helped pave the way. t t a iti na s est in a e t ns s e haven’t seen much country street food, but access to ingredients is vital, and there are such wonderful farming opportunities and so many great producers in Kent an sse e p ains i ha a a s t a e the e innin s the st eet e ent back to farmers’ markets; that was where the birth of
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GASTROSTREET FOOD
the street food swagger began. It then became about presentation and going into more esoteric vans, trucks and trailers that expressed a bit more about you, allowed you more mobility and became a bit more rock and roll than a trestle table and a tablecloth.” Of course, celebrity chefs and organisations like Love British Food and the Nationwide Caterers Association have helped make consumers aware of what’s on offer in our natural larder. For people like Richard, however, it’s about far more than just the grub on offer that makes street food culture so special. “Increasingly, it has evolved into something much more than food,” he says. “It’s also about the DJs, the entertainment and hanging out together in a festival atmosphere with a big bucket of beer in the middle. Just having food isn’t enough anymore – they’re more like food raves at the very best.” Indeed, it’s this sense of community and lifestyle that has made street food stand out. Which isn’t to say, of course, that Michelin-starred restaurants and more traditional dining experiences don’t still have their place, as there’s certainly plenty of room for everyone. But there can be no denying that the sky’s the limit for the potential of the emerging street food scene. i pa t hat e is n in the ne t i thin in street food, because that will often be the next big thing on the high street,” says Richard. “The high street is really bereft of ideas and street food is such an exciting place to trial new n epts that ent e apita is fl atin a e he street food is that you’re not tied in to a restaurant concept; if it doesn’t work, you can move on to something else.” If the current climate’s anything to go by, things are most e nite in p the et e i as h a e slowly but surely making their voices heard. And with street n in its a int s pe a ets an sh ps it surely won’t be long until it’s as much a part of Britain’s fast food fabric as takeaways and ready meals, but with a much needed boost to what we put in our trollies.
“Lunch shouldn’t have to be £100 or a sandwich at your desk; there has to be some other way of eating. The street food in New York was theatrical, engaging, affordable and excited people about food. As food writers, a big part of our job is to make people care about the food they’re eating”
he e s a e nite t en st eet t indoors,” Richard concludes. “We’re in the beginnings of talks about how to put the excitement of street food menus into pubs. By working with street food from the e e innin an n in ne ta ent e e a e t p t t a e s int esta ants an etai pa s e e n in spaces for street food so that it really does become a revolution rather than just a slogan.” To that end, the popularity of street food is showing no signs of slowing, reaching the hearts and minds of gastronomes all over the country and becoming an integral part of our food economy’s future. But like any great revolution, this one started in the streets, and that’s exactly where its soul will remain. To find out about Richard Johnson and British Street Food, head to www.britishstreetfood.co.uk. You can also learn more about street food and the Nationwide Caterers Association by visiting www.streetfood.org.uk or www.ncass.org.uk
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The making of a
MASTER CHEF
YOU KNOW HER AS THE FORMIDABLE JUDGE OF MASTERCHEF: THE PROFESSIONALS, BUT THERE’S FAR MORE TO MONICA GALETTI THAN MEETS THE EYE. WE CATCH UP WITH LE GAVROCHE’S SENIOR SOUS CHEF ABOUT JUGGLING WORK WITH MOTHERHOOD, BEING A TV PERSONALITY AND BECOMING PART OF THE ROUX FAMILY DYNASTY SUMMER 2014
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T
hey say behind every great man,
training in New Zealand and it wasn’t long before
in 2OO9. But, she insists, becoming a household
there’s a great woman. With a team
she was set on a gastronomic path as the thrill of the
name was never part of the plan.
that includes a sous chef like Monica
kitchen came calling.
“I can’t stand the term ‘celebrity chef’. I never
Galetti in his corner, this is a sentiment
“I walked into the kitchen and never looked back.
that Michel Roux Jr, owner of London’s Le Gavroche,
That was it; I knew it was for me. I’d been cooking in
Keith Floyd or Jamie Oliver. It was never something
can no doubt relate to.
New Zealand for about six or seven years already and
that I planned to do; I just fell into it. But I have an
started my career thinking I was going to be the next
had done quite well as a young commis, representing the country in worldwide competitions. I came to the UK as a prize to spend some time here and fell in love with it. I swore I would come back and haven’t left 15 years later.” As a keen traveller, her chance to return to our shores presented itself when she was journeying through Europe in 1998, sending out her CV to the likes of Raymond Blanc and Pierre Koffmann at the a e of
he rst to re ly as none other than
Michel Roux Jr, who took her on as a commis chef at Le Gavroche the following year. Little did she know, it as a decision that ould ultimately come to de ne
“
her career’s trajectory.
“Michel fools you into believing he’s a nice man in the beginning!” she jokes. “No, not really – he is
of course a lovely man and just a chef who comes
across in as few words as are needed; that’s the kind of person he is. Over the years I’ve become part of
the family and his eldest daughter Emily is very close to my little one as well; you can’t help it. It was an After all, since starting her tenure at the two Michelin-starred restaurant as a commis chef in 1999, the 39-year-old has worked her way up through the ranks, ainin a u lic ro le throu h an illustrious television career and becoming one of Britain’s most revered female culinary talents in the process. But before making such gargantuan steps in her gourmet journey, her passion for food stemmed from far simpler beginnings. Born in Samoa in 1975 and raised in New Zealand, Monica began her love affair with cooking at a young age. “My early memories of food were always in the kitchen with mum cooking. Our culture is very family oriented and everyone eats together, which were joyous moments for me. The kitchen is where the hub of the family has always been, so I think as a child I was drawn to that.” Originally studying for a diploma in Hospitality and Tourism, a young Monica completed all of her formal
“
enormous opportunity and I was so unprepared for
everyday life hen the lmin sto s life oes on
it, but now I love it!”
back in the kitchen and I have an eight-year-old daughter to look after.” Throughout her time on the show, Monica has
“MY EARLY MEMORIES OF FOOD WERE
made a name for herself as a fearsome onscreen
ALWAYS IN THE KITCHEN WITH MUM
presence, demanding impeccable standards from
COOKING. OUR CULTURE IS VERY FAMILY
ORIENTED AND EVERYONE EATS TOGETHER, WHICH WERE JOYOUS MOMENTS FOR ME” ith her foot rmly in the door, she as soon
her contestants and rin in a natural flair and charisma to the camera. While it made her a star, she remains refreshingly down to Earth about her television career, treating it strictly as an extension of her kitchen duties. “It’s work mode and you’re not going to get things
promoted to Sous Chef before being sent to open
done by being a little mouse in the kitchen, so to
Le Gavroche des Tropiques in Mauritius as Head Chef
speak. MasterChef: The Professionals is no different
in 2OO5. A year later she returned to Le Gavroche
for me and I treat the contestants the same way I treat
as Senior Sous Chef (second in command after the
my own staff. It’s a serious thing we’re doing and we’re
head chef , efore ainin a u lic ro le ith her
not joking around. I take it very seriously and when
rst television a earance alon side Michel as a
judge on BBC Two’s MasterChef: The Professionals
they do mess up or do silly things, it makes a mockery of my profession.” And it’s a profession she’s worked hard to advance in, particularly in an industry that’s largely dominated by her male peers. Alongside Le Gavroche’s Head hef achel um hries the rst oman to claim the restaurant’s top spot in its 4O-year history) and fellow Sous Chef Renée Miller, Monica has given women a strong identity and proven that it’s more than just a man’s world. ve never found it dif cult ein a oman in the kitchen. It’s a given that there’s always been a higher ratio of men; it was the same when I came through my training. If you can put up with the banter that goes on and be one of the lads, you’ll have a great time, but that doesn’t mean you’ve got to be a lad when you leave. You get to know everyone so well that it becomes like a family in any kitchen you work in, so it’s no big deal.”
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FOOD - FAVOURITE DISH
One man in particular who made a strong impression on the feisty chef was her French-born husband David, who holds the esteemed title of Head Sommelier at Le Gavroche. Having met on the job, the pair married in 2OO4 and have a daughter together, Anais, who was born two years later. While working in a highly pressurised environment might take its toll on other marriages, this culinary couple have come up with a simple but effective solution. “It works because we have absolutely nothing to do with each other when we’re at the restaurant! David doesn’t really have anything to do with the kitchen as such – he’s got 3O,OOO bottles of wine to look after out there, so it keeps him pretty busy and out of my way! We’ll very rarely speak to each other,
“
and that’s possibly why we’re still married.”
Since becoming a mother, Monica has had to take on a part-time, self-employed role at Le Gavroche,
ttin her usy schedule around her dau hter, hile
juggling the many duties she’s acquired along the way. “I organise my hours to suit me; I don’t need to work at Le Gavroche, but I love it and enjoy being
here. My daughter is my priority, so as long as I can t everythin
take on around her, ll e ha y to do
“
it. I count myself lucky to be able to still come into
“I’VE NEVER FOUND IT DIFFICULT BEING A WOMAN IN THE KITCHEN. IT’S A GIVEN THAT THERE ‘S ALWAYS BEEN A HIGHER RATIO OF MEN” a two-Michelin kitchen a couple of days a week and am very proud to be a part of the team and keep it ongoing. It’s a real pleasure.”
WINTER 2014
- 00
Nowadays, her additional responsibilities include
her work at Cactus Kitchens, Central London’s premier cookery school from the team behind BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen, which is home to gourmet
experiences with both Monica and Michel Roux Jr. It’s an experience that has meant she’s had to adopt a more hands-on teaching role, while also learning something new herself. “For a couple of years it was a whole adjustment for me to suddenly get used to teaching a group, made up partly of complete novices, how to cook and explain things you take for granted as a chef. We spend a lot of personal time together, so it’s a great experience and very relaxed. I try to make sure that all the chopping and things like that are done in the morning before we’ve had too much alcohol during the day – by the time they leave, I urge them not to drive!” Alcohol consumption notwithstanding, she’s taken to her new role like a duck to water, offering constructive words of wisdom to both amateur cooks and budding chefs who are looking to make a name for themselves.
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“
“Get out there and learn as much as possible, but don’t go jumping from one restaurant to another every three months – use a solid time in a great
kitchen and et those asic skills in rst You really
need to learn how to cook with an oven before you
“
start stickin thermometers in ater aths
Monica with Gregg Wallace (left) and Marcus Wareing (centre)
Courtesy of Shine: Soho
“MASTERCHEF: THE PROFESSIONALS IS WORK MODE FOR ME AND I TREAT THE CONTESTANTS THE SAME WAY I TREAT MY OWN STAFF. YOU’RE NOT GOING TO GET THINGS DONE BY BEING A LITTLE MOUSE IN THE KITCHEN” Influenced by culinary legends like the Roux
brothers and Alain Ducasse, as well as more
contemporary chefs like René Redzepi and the Roca brothers, Monica describes her cooking style as modern European, putting a current twist on classic dishes with the use of fresh produce, ada ted to fit to the e avroche style “I absolutely love seasonal ingredients and any
dish create is seasonal first love alkin into the big fridge, opening the doors and looking at hat ve ot Everythin ust sort of um s out at
you and, for me, that s hen a dish is orn With a new series of MasterChef: The Professionals due in November (in which Monica will appear alongside regular collaborator Gregg Wallace and newcomer Marcus Wareing), it would seem this is a sound method that has served her well in the rise to the to of her ame oday, she s certainly more than happy where she is and with the company she keeps, while remaining open to hat lies ahead “I’ve been able to rub shoulders with some great chefs over the years, which has been a real hi hli ht for me
ho kno s hat the future
holds f kne that, d rule the orld y no The world might not be served up on a plate for this particular master chef just yet, but there can Monica with Michel Roux Jr
e no denyin that it s most definitely her oyster
MasterChef: The Professionals is due to return o Monica’s Kitchen is available now, priced £2O, from Quadrille
at the e innin of ovem er on BB
43 Upper Brook Street, London W1K 7QR O2O 74O8 O881 www.le-gavroche.co.uk
Photographs by Yuki Sugiura
www.cactuskitchens.co.uk
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GASTRO LORRAINE PASCALE
Lorraine Pascale...
A MODEL COOK Photography by Myles New
S in c e b reak in g ou t w ith her deb m odel L orrain e P asc al e has b ec heal thy eatin g . W e c hat ex c l u siv l atest p roj ec t an d w hy c reatin g n eedn ’ t b e a c hore…
I
u t b ook an d TV series in 2 0 1 1 , f orm er om e som ethin g of a p oster g irl f or el y to the c el eb rity c ook ab ou t her del ic iou s dishes f rom sc ratc h at hom e
t takes a dash of courage and a dollop of drive to completely reinvent yourself; particularly when you’re posing for S p orts I l l u strated and brushing shoulders with the likes of Kate Moss and Naomi amp ell in the mi st o a flourishin mo ellin career. But that’s exactly what Lorraine Pascale did when she decided to ditch the catwalk glamour of Paris, New York and Milan for the art of gastronomy in London. Indeed, before becoming the household name she is to ay the now year ol ele rity oo rst ut her culinary teeth at Leiths School of Food and Wine and The University of West London. Embarking on a year-long diploma and subsequent degree, she quickly fell in love with food and drink, immersing herself in everything from microbiology, to strategic hospitality management and patisserie. “It was mainly going to Leiths and The University of West London that got me really passionate about it. It was ama in an so mu h un learnin all that stu t was reat to nally n somethin that really enjoye doing and that I could carry on doing and get better and better at.” Lorraine was born in Hackney, East London and given up for adoption at birth, when she went into foster care and was raised by adoptive parents Audrey and Roger Woodward in Buckinghamshire. But in spite of a turbulent upbringing, a passion for good food was always at its heart.
“My dad is a fantastic cook and makes delicious Italian food. He inspired me to cook and my mum would cook delicious food as well; I’ve always eaten a lot and used to be called ‘hollow legs.’” Following her foster parents’ divorce and another stint in the social care system, Lorraine won a charity funded scholarship to a boarding school in North Devon, before leaving home for Australia to begin her modelling career. A further six years living in New York saw her marry Polish musician Count Kaz Balinski-Jundzill, with whom she had her daughter Ella in 1996, before their separation and eventual divorce. It wasn’t long, however, before itchy feet and a desire to be more grounded for her daughter saw Lorraine move back to London with new ambitions and fresh ideas on where to take her career. Dabbling in an eclectic range of vocations in the wake of her runway shows, the TV star rst trie her han at interior esi n ar me hani s an hypnosis, before carving her niche in the world of food and drink. Today, the face of books and series like B ak in g M ade E asy and How to B e a B etter C ook is a bestselling author, television personality and all-round champion of healthy eating and living, as demonstrated in her most re ent proje t a in a ourite re ipes an i in them a refreshing, nutritious twist, E atin g W el l M ade E asy provides a snapshot of Lorraine’s own day-to-day eating
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habits for readers to try at home. “The inspiration behind it is that it’s the way I actually eat, so the food I eat every day is what you see in the book. Most of the time you just want a recipe that’s going to be quick, reasonably priced and that’s going to actually work.” Delectable highlights include peanut utter an anana mu ns no oo chocolate espresso cheesecake squares and beetroot risotto with feta cheese and mint, illustrating a wealth of sweet and savoury dishes that are as simple as they are satisfying. But the book’s real strength lies in its ability to transform everyday foods into truly show stopping meals. “I quite often make the fruit berry tarts with vanilla cashew cream; they’re quite easy and look stunning and really impressive, so they’re great ones to make. I love the leek, aubergine and chickpea tagine
with cashew nuts and apricots, and have the cinnamon protein pancakes a lot.” espite her est e orts thou h it would seem that eating well might not be as easy as she’d once hoped. As food prices continue to soar, it’s becoming in reasin ly i ult or the a era e rit to a or the lo al seasonal in re ients required to whip up a wholesome family meal. “There’s a lot of work to do, mainly in price, because to eat healthy can sometimes be very expensive, and it’s much easier to go and get a bag of crisps
“The inspiration behind it is that it’s the way I actually eat, so the food I eat every day is what you see in the book. Most of the time you just want a recipe that’s going to be quick, reasonably priced and that’s going to actually work”
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GASTRO LORRAINE PASCALE unfortunately. Local food isn’t sustainable in the UK, as we don’t have enough space to sustain ourselves.” Nonetheless, Lorraine continues to do her bit to promote a better way of living, eating and nourishing mind, body and soul through eepin t an stayin a ti e hi h isn t to say she doesn’t have something of a sweet tooth herself, of course; rather than make the move into restaurants, she opened her own patisserie, Ella’s Bakehouse (later renamed the Cupcake Bakehouse), in Covent Garden, and has judged hit shows like Hol iday B ak in g C ham p ion ship in the US. Elsewhere, her philanthropic activities have seen her draw on her own childhood experiences to become a patron of TACT (The Adolescent and Children’s Trust), which is the UK’s largest charity and voluntary agency providing fostering and adoption services. In addition to being made the Government’s rst osterin am assa or she e en lme a documentary, Fosterin g an d M e, for BBC Two, which saw her reunited with her original surrogate parents. “It’s really important, especially if you’re in the public eye, to give something back, and seeing as my history was fostering and adoption, I thought it was a really good charity to be with. It’s a great feeling, as it helps other people and also helps you feel like you’re doing something good.” But while cooking shows and books will no doubt remain her bread and butter, Lorraine is also keen to adopt a more DIY approach, joining the social media revolution and broadcasting a range of tutorials and master classes from the comfort of her own desktop. Not only does this ensure she keeps up with the most recent trends, but it also gives her the chance to bring her food instantly and directly to online fans and followers. “I’m moving a lot into YouTube at the moment; it’s real, it’s current and I think it’s brilliant. I’d like to focus on doing that and bring lots of interesting, current recipes into people’s homes. I’m doing a whole series o i eos or stu ents whi h lm myself, because my daughter’s just gone to university, so some tasty recipes for students that are quick and not just pasta!” ell i her latest oo is anythin to o by, penniless pupils around the country will soon be doing away with Pot Noodles in favour of far more appetising alternatives. But that’s the thing about Lorraine Pascale; she’s no stranger to shaking things up and trying something new. All it takes is a dash of courage and a dollop of drive.
Lorraine Pascale’s Eating Well Made Easy: Deliciously healthy recipes for everyone, every day is available now, priced £20, from HarperCollins. To learn more about Lorraine and try her latest recipes, visit www.lorrainepascale.com
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GASTRO SPOTLIGHT
Seaside BESIDE THE
Thanks in no small part to an abundance of food and drink options, Eastbourne has remained a staycation favourite among UK holidaymakers for generations. Join us as we take a gastronomic tour of the Sunshine Coast, and find out why it has become known as ‘The Watering Hole of the South’ PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF VISIT EASTBOURNE
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GASTRO SPOTLIGHT
O
f all the towns in the South East, few can boast as many affectionate nicknames as Eastbourne. From the omnipresent South Downs to the iconic Eastbourne Pier, the seaside resort in East Sussex is commonly known as the Sunshine Coast; thanks to its consistently high levels of sunlight, it’s an ever-popular tourist destination and attraction. Its lesser-known moniker is The Watering Hole of the South, adopted on account of its oasis of eateries, bars and pubs. t s a pse n that a ate efle ts the area’s vibrant foodie scene, which boasts ice cream parlours, Victorian tea rooms, bistros and more; all set against captivating ocean views and the picturesque backdrop of Beachy Head, the UK’s highest chalk sea cliff. “From the invention of one of the nt s st e esse ts an pie – which was invented at The Hungry
Monk, a pub in nearby Jevington Village in the 1970s – to the all-time favourite seasi e inne sh an hips the e s an abundance of great ‘chippies’ within the town), Eastbourne has a history of serving delectable, traditional British food to hungry visitors after a long day of exploring the coast and countryside,” says Annie Wills, head of tourism and enterprise at Eastbourne Borough Council. “Not only does Eastbourne provide UK visitors with classic seaside favourites,
As a seaside town, ast ourne o ers some unique and authentic culinary experiences
but the town also houses a whole host of eateries serving international cuisine. From Indian to Italian and Thai to tapas, Eastbourne has always welcomed the arrival of independent and well-known restaurants to help meet the varying tastes and budgets of the town’s visitors.” And it’s not just the traders that attract tourists to Eastbourne’s epicurean centre. Laying claim to some of the South East’s top producers, it has made its mark as a hotspot for local microbreweries and vineyards in particular, which have helped put Eastbourne on the map, both as a delectable paradise, and as a major industry player. “In addition to boasting a large and diverse range of pubs, wine bars and cocktail bars, Eastbourne also has many other strings to its bow when it comes t the nest in in e pe ien es Annie continues. “The town is surrounded by a plethora of Sussex and downland microbreweries, and the surrounding
VISIT EASTBOURNE
Tourism and Enterprise, Winter Garden, 14 Compton Street, Eastbourne, East Sussex BN21 4BP 01323 415 556 promotions@eastbourne.gov.uk www.visiteastbourne.com
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GASTRO SPOTLIGHT countryside areas of Eastbourne are swarmed with vineyards.” To showcase the best of what’s on offer, the county’s biggest beer festival comes to Eastbourne’s Winter Garden every October, featuring a range of over 160 real cask ales on tap, alongside bars dedicated to wine, cider and international bottled beers. And with the South Downs National Park and Seven Sisters Country Park on its doorstep, the town’s seaside setting makes it an idyllic spot for guests to spend a leisurely Sunday afternoon sauntering through sand, sea and stunning scenery. “As a seaside town, Eastbourne offers some unique and authentic culinary experiences,” Annie says. “Fresh, locallycaught seafood can be found at Periwinkles on the beach next to the pier, selling seafood to take home and cook, as does Southern Head beach shop, where visitors can buy esh a ht sh e te she en It’s this emphasis on its roots as a traditional coastal resort, not to mention
the support of independent business owners and tradespeople, which has made Eastbourne’s gourmet appeal so successful. Sovereign Harbour, located in Northern Europe’s largest composite marina, offers a multitude of restaurants, while the beach hosts summer events, such as daily an stan n e ts an ee e displays – a popular spot for visitors to relish an authentic seaside experience. “The town is laden with many great independent restaurants, coffee shops and eateries, which all help to boost the local economy,” explains Annie. “Eastbourne is extremely proud to present so many independent businesses, which thrive in a town of food and drink fanatics. Regular farmers’ and continental markets selling locally-grown produce can also be found throughout the entire year in the town centre and along the seafront.” As part of the town’s continued renovation – with the help of £2million in Government funding to boost tourism in the wake of 2014’s
e astatin pie e ast ne is the looking to enhance its culinary offering through a £1.2million investment in the new Wish Tower restaurant, which Annie insists will add a certain ‘je ne sais quoi’ once a signature chef or local restaurateur is found. In the meantime, she has high hopes for the future of the town and where its culinary community is heading. “We’d love to grow our position as a wine tasting destination, as well as see more ie e ents fl ishin in the t n s h as Feastival, which returns for a second year in 2016,” she concludes. “We’ll be very happy to welcome some big brand names at the new shopping mall as part of the town centre’s redevelopment, but the continuing growth of superb independent gourmet eateries is equally important to Eastbourne’s outstanding culinary offering.” Whether it’s the former or the latter, it’s safe to say that the Sunshine Coast is a foodie destination on the rise, without losing its identity as the quintessential English seaside town. Keep on shining, Eastbourne.
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Tom Aikens
THE MAN WITH THE MICHELIN TOUCH Photography by David Griffen
L ik e m an y g reat c ook s b ef ore him , he’ s b een c on trov ersial , div isiv e an d has c ertain l y had his f air share of hig hs an d l ow s. B u t say w hat you w il l ab ou t Tom Aikens – there’s no denying he’s still one of Britain’s finest culinary talents. W e c hat ex c l u siv el y w ith the M ic hel in - starred c el eb rity c hef
T
here comes a time in every cook’s career when they’re able to well and truly make their mark on the gastronomic map. For celebrity chef and restaurateur om i ens this e nin moment ame at the a e o 26, when he was named the youngest British chef to be awar e two i helin stars or his e orts at on on s ie erre restaurant; an accolade that would distinguish him as one of the UK’s most acclaimed and inspirational foodie personalities. “Gaining a Michelin star at the age of 26 was a momentous time for me and a great honour. It certainly made me more determined to have my own restaurants and work hard with my team to gain recognition.” Indeed, it was this same determination that got the 45-year-old Tom where he is to ay n a ition to runnin a total o e restaurants under his eponymous ‘Tom’s Kitchen’ banner, the highly decorated cook is no stranger to the media spotlight, appearing in popular TV programmes like BBC Two’s G reat B ritish M en u , Channel 4’s I ron C hef U K and Good Food Channel’s M ark et K itc hen . His success is hardly surprising, as he’s spent a lifetime surrounded by food and drink. Hailing from Norfolk and spending childhood summer holidays in France’s Auvergne region, the young Tom grew up with easy access to fresh fruit and vegetables from his family’s own back garden, which taught him about the importance of seasonality and how to grow and cook great produce. Both his father and grandfather were in the wine trade, exposing him to food and travel adventures aplenty – complete with an abundance of French dishes, wine and markets – which in turn inspired him to become a chef. “For as long as I can remember – probably the age of eight or so – my twin brother and I helped out in the kitchen with my mother. She would involve us in making cakes and home baking, or just weighing things out, but we were always on hand to help lick out the occasional sticky, raw cake mix that was left in the bottom of the bowl. I have a great memory of her making milk bread; the smell was so incredible.” ther mentors ha e in lu e the li es o ierre o mann an o l
o u hon with whom he wor e respe ti ely at a ante laire in on on an telier e o l o u hon aris aturally the opportunity to cook under two of the world’s biggest names was too good to resist; under their tutelage, he acquired the discipline, solidarity and techniques he needed to make his own way in the food and drink industry. “I’ve been fortunate enough to work alongside some of the world’s est he s an many o them were ren h su h as o l o u hon an ierre o mann hey e oth een real inspirations to my oo in an ha e ertainly influen e my style also a mire he s li e aul o use Alain Ducasse and the Roux brothers; not only have they revolutionised the industry with their cooking, but they’re also great businessmen.” Business is something Tom knows a thing or two about himself, as his talent and ambition has led to the creation of his very own restaurant empire. Tom’s Kitchen can be found in Chelsea, Somerset House, anary har an t atharine o s in on on as well as urther a el in stan ul i e many o his ourmet peers he has e ome just as much a savvy restaurateur as a celebrated, award-winning chef. Of course, such entrepreneurship hasn’t been without its challenges. n om opene the ill ate om s la e whi h lose six months later reatin nan ial pro lems or his restaurant roup an lea in many suppliers out of pocket, leading to an investigation by the Fair Trading Commission. ery temper has pre iously otten him in hot water too most nota ly when he was reporte ly ismisse rom ie erre or branding a trainee employee with a hot palate knife. But in spite of his setbacks, Tom remains just as optimistic as ever about the prospect of expanding and launching additional eateries. lo e to open new restaurants as it s always a i erent a enture and a great challenge. Expanding abroad is also a lot of fun, as I get to discover a new environment, new produce and new tastes, which are all very good inputs to my cooking style. However, it’s also very time-consuming, and I want the quality of all my restaurants to remain at the top level, so of course there needs to be a limit to this growth.”
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GASTRO TOM AIKENS
FACT FILE Born: 1970, Norfolk, East Anglia Restaurants: 5 Michelin stars: 2 Cookbooks: 3 Marriages: 2 Children: 2 Favourite dish: Charred steak,
medium-rare, with bĂŠarnaise sauce and triplecooked chips Guilty pleasure: Vanilla ice cream Cooking style: Seasonal traditional British and French classics with creative twists
Gaining a Michelin star at the age of 26 was a momentous time for me and a great honour
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GASTRO TOM AIKENS
Described as ‘a modern British brasserie serving comfort oo a ourites in a relaxe an in ormal en ironment all e Tom’s Kitchen restaurants showcase high-quality, ethicallysourced ingredients. The ethos is a simple one: use the very best seasonal and locally-sourced produce wherever possible, working with British suppliers and supporting British farmers to serve dishes that are as fresh as they are sustainable. “I do believe that people are more and more concerned about eating healthy food, produced in a sustainable way. The farm-to-table restaurant concepts are thus getting increasingly popular. However, there are still too many people eating ready meals. We’re all so busy that a very basic skill of feeding oneself almost becomes the last priority in life, which is a real shame. “It’s important to me that my family and customers always eat healthy, fresh and seasonal food. Cooking from scratch can be just as quick and easy to make than buying a microwave meal, and it tastes a lot better.” And as if he didn’t have enough on his plate already – what with running Michelin-starred restaurants and championing pro u e om still n s time to support an wor losely with a variety of charities. From the Environmental Justice oun ation whi h raises awareness o ille al pirate shin an iminishin sh sto s to the reat rmon treet hil ren s ampai n an hool oo atters where he teaches young children basic cooking skills, his philanthropic e orts remain lose to his heart “I think this goes in pair with the idea of eating and living in a sustainable way, which I try to always promote the best way I can, as solidarity is a very important part of it. As I love doing sports always try to run or y le or a oo ause eein my two young daughters every day also made me want to help children who don’t have as much of a chance as they do.” As viewers of G reat B ritish M en u will know, there’s never been a better time for aspiring cooks to get their name out and be given chances of their own. Alongside fellow celebrity chefs like Tom Kerridge and Marcus Wareing, Tom has appeared both as a contestant and a judge on the popular programme, winnin the outh ast an on on heats in an assistin erri e as a mentor on the sh ourse in an experience that allowed him to witness up-and-coming chefs at their hun riest o what wor s o wis om oes he ha e or Britain’s future rising stars?
“They must be passionate, caring, hardworking, dedicated and, most importantly, they must have the ability to look, watch, listen carefully and follow orders. You’d be surprised at how i ult listenin is or some lways ress smartly an work cleanly and in an organised environment, as you’ll then create top-quality results. “It takes a lot of determination, hard work and self-belief. You have to have a game plan and set goals for the future. Be patient and persevere – sometimes working as a chef involves taking steps backwards and forwards to get to where you want to be.” a in opene two new restaurants in sharin on ept ots ans an oar s in u ai in eptem er as well as pork-themed concept The Fat Pig in Hong Kong in o em er the uture is most e nitely loo in ri ht or the Michelin-starred maestro. prin is set to mar the laun h o on on fla ship restaurant The Botanicals, which will focus on ‘British tapas’, o tails an rowin in re ients on site a ttin tri ute to his upbringing and one that will return him full circle to where he rst e an as a oy in his e eta le pat h ora in in the back garden for the produce he loves. Tom ’ s K itc hen restau ran ts are l oc ated in C hel sea, C an ary harf t atharine ocks and omerset ouse. To find out m ore, v isit www.tomskitchen.co.uk ead on to find out how to make one of om s recipes from the comfort of your own kitchen
I love to open new restaurants, as it’s always a different adventure and a great challenge
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WHILE TODAY’S TV COOKS HAVE CERTAINLY MADE AN INVALUABLE CONTRIBUTION TO OUR UNDERSTANDING AND APPRECIATION OF FOOD, THERE’S ALSO PLENTY TO BE SAID FOR THEIR PEERS AND PREDECESSORS. WE MEET SOME OF THE PAST AND PRESENT HEROES OF THE INDUSTRY TO FIND OUT HOW THEY HAVE MADE THEIR MARK ON OUR CUISINE CULTURE
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TOP 10 CHEFS
T
une in your telly on any given evening and you’ll invariably see the likes of Jamie and Nigella cooking up a storm from the comfort of their own kitchens. As the poster boys (and girls) of the so-called ‘golden age of celebrity chefs’, they exude a level of culinary influence rarely seen before in the UK. But what of the foodie legends who don’t spend quite as much time in the limelight – the working chefs whose careers have propelled them to the top of their game, as they have redefined their chosen cuisine and won a slew of Michelin stars for their efforts? These are the chefs’ chefs who are far more likely to be found in a kitchen than on a sound stage – the idols who gave us the Blumenthals and Ramsays we know and love, and who have come to shape our gastronomic landscape as we know it today. From Escoffier to Koffmann, the Roux to the Roca brothers, we have a look at 1O of the most iconic, accomplished and game changing chefs of all time. Join us as we take you on a delectable odyssey through the gourmet hall of fame…
AUGUSTE ESCOFFIER
Born: October 28 1846, Villeneuve-Loubet, France Cooking style: Haute From the menu: Jellied chicken breasts with foie gras Few can lay claim to as much influence as ‘the king of chefs and the chef of kings’. Famous for popularising and updating traditional French cooking methods, Escoffier developed a new philosophy of highly refined simplicity in dining, creating a brigade system in the kitchen and establishing sanitation standards. His Le Guide Culinaire cookbook and textbook remains a major point of reference and his impact has been felt by practically every cheffing generation since. www.escoffier-society.com www.escoffier.edu
PAUL BOCUSE
Born: February 11 1926, Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or, France Cooking style: Nouvelle Restaurants: 2O Michelin stars: 3 From the menu: Sole fillets with Fernand Point noodles As one of the most eminent chefs of the nouvelle cuisine movement, Paul Bocuse’s contribution to French cooking is as invaluable as it is timeless. His flagship restaurant, L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, near Lyon, is one of a small number of establishments in France to have received three Michelin stars, while the biennial world chef championship, the Bocuse d’Or, has been regarded as one of the most prestigious cooking awards in the world. www.bocuse.com
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MICHEL GUERARD
MICHEL AND ALBERT ROUX
Born: March 27 1933, Val-d’Oise, France Cooking style: Cuisine minceur Restaurants: 1 Michelin stars: 3 From the menu: Tsarina egg with caviar, dressed in the shell Michel Guérard took nouvelle cuisine to the next level with the opening of his Les Prés d’Eugénie estate in the French commune of Eugénie-les-Bains. ‘Cuisine minceur’, which remains his trademark style, recreates lighter, healthier versions of the nouvelle movement’s dishes, often to a tastier standard than their originals. Literally meaning ‘slimming cooking’, the food was originally designed to lure health conscious Parisians to dine and stay at his spa and hotel. www.michelguerard.com
Born: October 8 1935 (Albert); April 19 1941 (Michel), Charolles Saône-et-Loire, France Cooking style: Haute Restaurants: 8 (Albert); 1 (Michel) Michelin stars: 2 (Albert); 3 (Michel) From the menu: Cheese soufflé cooked on double cream Known as the ‘godfathers of modern restaurant cuisine in the UK’, the Roux brothers are nothing short of culinary royalty. Together, they founded London’s Le Gavroche in 1967, where they trained some of the world’s leading celebrity chefs, including Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre White. Their Roux Scholarship, meanwhile, remains one of the world’s most revered and ambitious cooking competitions. www.rouxscholarship.co.uk
JOËL ROBUCHON
PIERRE KOFFMANN
Aurelien Godet
Born: April 7 1945, Poitiers, France Cooking style: Post-nouvelle Restaurants: 12 Michelin stars: 28 From the menu: Roasted monkfish in an aromatic broth with spring vegetables Crowned ‘chef of the century’ by the influential French restaurant guide, Gault et Millau, Joël Robuchon is the world’s most Michelin-starred cook. He is seen as a leader of the ‘post-nouvelle’ movement, having created an original concept of bringing cuisine in front of his guests with open kitchens in his restaurants and providing great food in a spirit of conviviality. Now, ‘simplicity is best’ and relentless perfectionism remains his food philosophy. www.joel-robuchon.com
Born: August 21 1948, Tarbes, France Cooking style: Gascon Restaurants: 1 Michelin stars: O From the menu: Grilled Scottish lobster with herb butter Michel Roux Jr has described Pierre Koffmann as “the chef’s chef” – and it isn’t difficult to see why, as his emphasis on food he loves speaks volumes about his craft. He may have hung up his chef whites (and three Michelin stars) in 2OO3, but the former owner of London’s La Tante Claire now serves as head chef at The Berkeley in Knightsbridge, where he creates dishes from his childhood in south west France. www.pierrekoffmann.co.uk
AUTUMN 2015
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PIERRE GAGNAIRE
ALAIN DUCASSE
Born: September 13 1956, Orthez, France Cooking style: Provençal Restaurants: 24 Michelin stars: 19 From the menu: Anjou pigeon, potato gnocchi, girolles and confit shallot Famed for his work at Le Louis XV in Paris, Alain Ducasse became the first chef to own restaurants with three Michelin stars in three cities around the world. Today, his empire has expanded to include the École de Cuisine cookery school in the French capital, as well as a grand total of 24 restaurants in eight different countries, including the three Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester on London’s Park Lane. www.alain-ducasse.com Pierre Monetta
Born: April 9 195O, Apinac, Loire, France Cooking style: Fusion Restaurants: 1O Michelin stars: 14 From the menu: Vent de sable aux olives de Lucques This iconoclastic chef is at the forefront of the fusion food movement. Without compromise or exception, Gagnaire has made his name on refusing to be shackled by the conventions of French cooking, introducing extreme juxtapositions in flavour, texture and ingredients on his menus. His food is inspired by painters, music and poetry and he continues to follow his instincts in creating seasonal recipes that are new, bold and exciting in equal measure. www.pierre-gagnaire.com Jacques Gavard
JOAN, JOSEP AND JORDI ROCA
RENÉ REDZEPI
Born: December 16 1977, Copenhagen, Denmark Cooking style: New Nordic Restaurants: 1 Michelin stars: 2 From the menu: Fermented wild plums and wild beach roses The man of the moment on today’s international food stage has got to be René Redzepi. Noted for the reinvention and refinement of the so-called ‘new Nordic’ cuisine movement, his two Michelin starred Noma restaurant in Copenhagen has been recognised as the best in the world four times; in short, he remains largely responsible for putting Denmark firmly on the map as one of the most respected and desirable culinary capitals on Earth. www.noma.dk Peter Brinch
Born: February 1964 (Joan); March 1966 (Josep); May 1978 (Jordi), Girona, Spain Cooking style: Modern Spanish Restaurants: 1 Michelin stars: 3 From the menu: Lobster parmentier with black trumpets Meet the winners of this year’s 5O Best Restaurants Awards, who return to the top spot after coming second in 2O14. As owners of the three Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca, brothers Joan (head chef), Josep (sommelier) and Jordi (pastry chef) are committed to an avant-garde, freestyle cooking approach, which fuses their lifelong passion for food with a collective thirst for knowledge and academia. www.cellercanroca.com
Ditte Isager
David Ruano
AUTUMN 2015
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KITCHIN of the
Revolution
He’s been a regular on MasterChef and was the youngest Scottish cook to win a Michelin star at the age of 29. But there’s something far closer to Tom Kitchin’s heart than TV or trophies – his food. We sit down with the man behind The Kitchin to hear how his homeland is going from nature to plate
SUMMER 2014
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W
here in Scotland.”
hen you think of Scotland – or,
I started washing the pots and pans in the local
more specifically, Scottish
pub and fell in love with cooking in that sense.
food – your kneejerk response
I met some great people along the way and
Tom opened The Kitchin in 2OO6 with wife
may well be more haggis than haute, conjuring
started doing a bit of the starters and desserts
Michaela in a converted whiskey bonded
images of the deep-fried delicacies that have
and, before I knew it, I was leaving school and
warehouse in the old dock area of Leith. With
often haunted the country’s culinary reputation.
found myself at Gleneagles Hotel
its original stone and wood features, the
at a young age.”
intimate and cosy dining room creates a relaxed
Among the many chefs working hard to dispel
Upon returning to his hometown of Edinburgh,
atmosphere where guests can fully unwind and
this notion is Tom Kitchin, the Michelin starred
Indeed, Tom’s stint of early training at the
owner of The Kitchin restaurant in Edinburgh.
renowned luxury hotel was the first of many
Fusing French techniques, British cuisine and
experiences that saw him work with some of the
Scottish ingredients, his cooking has made
world’s most respected chefs, from the legendary
I hadn’t done it for many, many years, so it was
its mark on his country’s status as a gourmet
Pierre Koffman at La Tante Claire in London, to
a little bit like stepping into the unknown. I had
hotspot. It seems he’s not alone, however, as his
Alain Ducasse’s Le Louis XV restaurant in Monte
worked for all these wonderful chefs in the
own efforts are part of a much bigger movement.
Carlo. Needless to say, the French gastronomy of
greatest kitchens in the world, but when you
his predecessors left a lasting impression.
come to do it yourself and you’ve got to fund
“All the chefs I’ve worked for are massively
doing bad food for such a long time, and finally we’re really doing something about it. But there’s no one person who’s done this and it’s nothing to do with just me; it’s been going on for years and there are so many pioneers of the Scottish
“
“Here in Scotland we’ve been lambasted for
influential and renowned for using amazing
“
produce and being true to seasonality. There
enjoy ‘the theatre of cooking’. “I was very proud to be cooking in Scotland.
it and create something, it’s a different story altogether.” What he created was a restaurant that quickly
wasn’t anything molecule about what we were
caught the attention of diners and critics alike.
doing; it was very much the traditions of French
Within six months of opening, The Kitchin was
“IT’S AN EXCITING TIME FOR BRITISH FOOD AND BRITISH CHEFS” food revolution who have contributed to it. Scotland really is getting a wonderful reputation now and we’ve got to be really proud of that. It’s a collective thing and we’re moving in the right direction.” For their involvement in this foodie uprising, Tom and his team live by a simple but effective philosophy. The Kitchin’s mantra, ‘From Nature to Plate’, is a reflection of Tom’s passion for the finest, freshest seasonal produce available in Scotland’s natural larder, which continues to put his country’s cuisine firmly on the map. “In a way it’s amazing that we found this strap
gastronomy. So I was really just taking the
awarded a Michelin star, making Tom, then 29,
inspirations I had from working in France and
the youngest Scottish chef to receive the most
working with Koffman and trying to transmit that
coveted of foodie honours. But as he’s grown
into the Scottish larder. They’re all iconic chefs
older and his cooking has matured, so too has his
in world cooking and without a doubt they made
attitude to the awards that come with it.
me the chef I am today.” Despite the influence his mentors have had on
“It’s very humbling. When I was younger I was quite obsessed with it, but then I think
him, however, Tom’s style and flair in the kitchen
there’s a period where maturity sets in and it’s
remains his own. Working closely with a team of
a completely different game as you grow into
selected suppliers, he ensures that his seasonal
and develop your style. But the accolades are
produce arrives fresh daily, with all meat and fish
important and they do help because you’re
bought in whole and all butchering and filleting
demanding to your staff; you expect them to
done in-house.
work long hours and really dedicate their lives to it.”
line. It’s grown and grown and it’s just the most
“There’s no doubt that my French training
incredible branding – nowadays you would pay
has had a massive influence on the way I cook,
millions of pounds for something like this. But it’s
but it’s my own style, my own dishes, my own
his sights on a second venture. Castle Terrace
true; we’re absolutely fanatical about where the
inspiration. Romantically I’m still attached to my
opened its doors in 2O1O, introducing a new
produce comes from, working with nature and
French roots and there’s no getting away from
dining experience to the city of Edinburgh.
understanding our suppliers.”
the traditions of the French gastronomy, but the
Nestled underneath Edinburgh Castle, it
food is very much about the seasonal variety
combines the expertise and flair of the team
Tom (37) wasn’t always the Scottish heritage
Following the success of The Kitchin, Tom set
ambassador he is
behind The Kitchin with
today, however; like
the innovation of Chef
all great chefs, he
Patron Dominic Jack.
has worked his way
A close friend to Tom,
up from humble
Dominic has put his
beginnings. Born
unique stamp on the
in Edinburgh in
restaurant, receiving
1977, some of his
a Michelin star of his
early flirtations
own in October 2O11. “First and foremost,
with food occurred
Dominic’s a great
study catering at Perth College before embarking on a number of life changing apprenticeships. “Many years ago when I was about 13
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARC MILLAR
when he went to
friend of mine. We started working together at Gleneagles and have been allies ever since. My family and I knew what an unbelievable talent he was; the guy has
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a CV the likes of which have never been seen before, especially for a Scotsman. Even though we’re business partners, Castle Terrace is his restaurant, it’s his Michelin star and he deserves all the credit for his wonderful food. It’s people like that who make these projects possible and I’m the first one to admit that if I was to do this on my own, we’d soon be bankrupt.” Such unabashed modesty might be considered typical from a chef who has cultivated an ethos of family in everything he does. Along with wife and co-owner Michaela and father Ron, who
“
serves as Managing Director of all his restaurants, The Kitchin’s team includes Food and Beverage Director Philippe Nublat and Maitre d’ Sylvain Ranc, who, as Tom insists, have ensured the collective success of the business.
“The restaurant’s evolved and grown and it’s been amazing to have the family so involved.
Without the input of my wife Michaela, who has
“
the most incredible eye for detail, my dad and
my team, we would not be where we are today.
“ROMANTICALLY I’M STILL ATTACHED TO MY FRENCH ROOTS AND THERE’S NO GETTING AWAY FROM THE TRADITIONS OF THE FRENCH GASTRONOMY, BUT THE FOOD IS VERY MUCH ABOUT THE SEASONAL VARIETY HERE IN SCOTLAND” No one’s given us millions of pounds to open a restaurant; we developed it ourselves. We’ve
grown together and we’ve all learned and made mistakes as we’ve gone along, but each one of
us has a strength in a specific area. That’s a very beautiful thing to have made something naturally together and we live and breathe it every day.” From this organic evolution came a third
restaurant, The Scran & Scallie, which took the ‘From Nature to Plate’ formula and applied it to a gastro pub setting. Under Head Chef David Umpherson, the pub serves fresh, modern dishes alongside forgotten classics such as Sheep’s Heid Scotch Broth, creating a more casual, family friendly dining experience without compromising on the quality of the menu. “The food there is really good fun and we just love the simplicity and execution of it; it’s a happy, happy place. Because we’ve got so much freedom with the menu and people are embracing it, we buy one animal, break it down and work our way through it. We know exactly where it’s coming from and it’s just so exciting.” Outside The Kitchin, Tom has become a
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“
recognisable face on television, appearing on popular shows like
Saturday Kitchen, MasterChef and The Great British Menu. But while these extracurricular activities have certainly helped in
boosting the profile of The Kitchin, Tom maintains that it’s the restaurants that will always come first.
“
“The world of cooking and the world of chefs today has
“THERE’S NO DOUBT THAT MY FRENCH TRAINING HAS HAD A MASSIVE INFLUENCE ON THE WAY I COOK, BUT IT’S MY OWN STYLE, MY OWN DISHES, MY OWN INSPIRATION”
changed dramatically. I have no aspirations to become a TV personality, but it’s about trying to get a fine line and not
overdoing it. I’ve turned down so many TV shows, but at the same
“
“
“WE’RE ABSOLUTELY FANATICAL ABOUT WHERE THE PRODUCE COMES FROM, WORKING WITH NATURE AND UNDERSTANDING OUR SUPPLIERS”
time I understand what the camera wants in a way and try to pick and choose the ones that really excite me. I don’t do it just for the sake of it.”
A point well made, as Tom’s position on TV’s foodie golden age is an ambivalent one.
“At the end of the day we’re all still cooks. If a chef becomes a TV personality and then forgets that they’re a chef, then good luck to them. There are two ways of looking at it: you’ve got young kids now coming into the industry who think that the next quickest way to get to stardom after becoming a premiership footballer or winning The X Factor is to be a chef, which of course isn’t true. “On the other hand, everyone’s a food critic now, everyone can write a review, everyone wants to buy a cookbook and practice. The whole UK has become more foodie, which is a real plus point. Kids are more into cooking and that’s all down to television as well, so like with anything, there’s two sides to it. I think it’s a positive thing and it gives us great exposure, then after that it’s up to us to deliver. It’s an exciting time for British food and British chefs.” In June 2O12 Tom received an Honorary Doctorate of Arts degree from Edinburgh Napier University for his significant contribution to Scottish food culture, a reminder that he is continuing to fight the good fight and change the way people think about his country, its heritage and its cuisine. But when you boil it down, his solution for change is far simpler than one might expect. “Coming to a nice restaurant should be like going to the theatre. You’re creating a real evening out and one that the customers won’t forget. You have to celebrate the local produce, make people feel welcome and make sure they come back.” In that case, Tom Kitchin, break a leg and take a bow, as we can’t wait for the encore.
THE KITCHIN
78 Commercial Quay, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6LX +44 (O) 131 555 1755 www.thekitchin.com
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GASTROSPOTLIGHT
G ou rm ets in the S ou th E ast w on ’ t w an t to m iss a v isit to Tu n b ridg e W el l s, w here the p ic tu resq u e P an til es b oasts a w eal th of f ood an d drin k c u l tu re to sin k you r teeth in to. From the f arm ers’ m ark ets to the f ood f estiv al s, w e shin e a l ig ht on w hy the tow n has b ec om e a c u l in ary w on der of the W eal d
…
T
here can be few destinations in Kent that boast a food and drink scene as buoyant as that of Tunbridge Wells. From its discovery by Lord North in 1606, to its reputation as a popular spa destination in the Georgian and i t ian e as the t n has fl ishe to become one of the region’s most desirable locations, thanks in no small part to its vibrant gastronomic landscape. Today, Tunbridge Wells is known far and wide as a beacon of multicultural cuisine. There are more than 220 eateries available throughout the area, not to mention two weekly farmers’
markets and food festivals every year, which showcase the very best produce the Garden of England and beyond has to offer. Among the most well-known places to visit is the historic Pantiles. Once a playground for gentry and royalty, the pretty colonnaded walkway is famed for the iron-rich waters of the Chalybeate Spring, which once rivalled the likes of Bath and Brighton and were reputed to cure such ailments as infertility, hangovers and obesity.
Read on...
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We need to make sure we keep the local economy thriving, and spending money with independent food and beverage sites is a great way of doing that because we’ll always buy off local people Matthew Sankey
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Now, the promenade remains a must-see for both locals and visitors on account of its communal feel and bustling atmosphere. And with a multitude of shops, pubs, restaurants and cafés banding together to form The Association of Pantiles Traders, it’s perhaps one of the most collaborative foodie districts in Kent, as head trader Matthew Sankey explains. “It’s very much now a mixture of retail and food and beverage,” he says. “We’re quite proactive in driving footfall to the area; we run the markets and the food festivals and put on other events, so it’s a real destination. There’s been a resurgence in the last few years and the place has been given a bit of a makeover, so it’s on the way up.” For Matthew and his peers, operating at the bottom end of the town is a dream come true. A sense of community permeates each and every venue, who work together to make the thoroughfare as attractive as possible to customers through a variety of events, from the packed-out Jazz on The Pantiles evenings to the equally appealing biannual food festivals.
“Working down there is extraordinary,” continues Matthew. “We’re working hand in hand and putting everything on together. It’s incredible and quite refreshing because it can get quite lonely running a business, so putting on events is great because you’re dealing with likeminded people who are in your industry and in a similar position to you and your company.” Such camaraderie is naturally inspired by a shared passion for providing a strong ‘F&B’ offering locally (that’s ‘food and beverage’ to the rest of us), but it’s also about sticking together in the face of larger corporations and restaurant chains setting up shop next door. “The quality of the venues is important, which has improved in the town in general and is driven by competition,” Matthew says. “The chain restaurants have come in and changed the industry, forcing us t e s a te e e ient an at how we operate our businesses, which is a key element. We’ve got the advantage of being hands-on
and having a lot more passion.” It’s this shared vision that has served The Pantiles and Tunbridge Wells so well until now, as an independent spirit has helped to unify smaller traders throughout the town as a whole. Equally, Kent itself remains an integral part of the story; indeed, the county’s natural larder has been instrumental in enabling small businesses to make their marks on the local economy, while ensuring the produce remains front and centre, no matter where it might come from. “We’re incredibly lucky being in Kent, because a lot of produce is cultivated here,” says Matthew. “But that doesn’t mean we use it exclusively; it’s more key that we’re using locally based wholesale companies. “We need to make sure we keep the local economy thriving, and spending money with independent food and beverage sites is a great way of doing that because we’ll always buy off local people. It’s important that we’re using local suppliers and the best
Read on...
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GASTROSPOTLIGHT produce from whoever’s growing and producing it. It might not be local, but as long as we’re using local people to source it, that’s the important thing.” Another factor that has helped drive the t n s t a is a e ent infl celebrity chefs, as household names like Rosemary Shrager, Richard Phillips and James Tanner have all made Tunbridge Wells the home of Michelin-starred restaurants and cookery schools alike. But, as Matthew warns, the emphasis needs to remain n a t ets st an e st “We’ve got to be careful there,” he says. “Having people like Rosemary Shrager and Richard Phillips is one thing and great for the town, but having a massive chain like Jamie
Oliver move in is something else. We’ve got to make sure we look after our own brands, but that’s down to us to make them strong and desirable enough, because if they’re not, others will move in. So, while it’s great to have these big names wanting to come down to us, we need to make sure we look after ourselves.” If the increasing popularity of the jazz evenings and food festivals is anything to go by, that shouldn’t be a problem, as winers and diners from all over continue to be drawn to the area’s booming food and drink attractions. And while the competition of larger enterprises might present a challenge, the smaller outlets are continuing to ht the ht
“We’re on the back foot against the Goliaths, but we can provide a better product; we know that and we’ve proved it time and time again,” concludes Matthew. “We’ve just got to be proactive and get involved, but the most important thing is making sure our product’s good. We know we can’t please everyone, but we’ll give it a damn good try.” Well, Matthew, dish up and get the beers in, because the ne t n s n s.
To find out more about food and drink in Tunbridge Wells and The Pantiles, head to www.visittunbridgewells.com or www.pantilestraders.co.uk
atthe lists his to fi e reasons to isit Tun ridge ells and The antiles ■ Great
independent restaurants, pubs and cafés – there’s great pride taken by these businesses ■ The Pantiles Food Festivals – in May and September ■ Two great food markets – the Town Hall on the second Saturday of the month and The Pantiles n the st an thi at a the nth ■ With plenty of choice, The Pantiles is great for families – no main roads and loads of space for little ones to play ■ Some of the best producers in the UK – right on our doorstep, making it sustainable, as well as delicious
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GASTRO
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GASTRO T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A WA R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A W A R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
GOURMET GUERRILLAS Why street food is starting a kitchen revolution in the UK PAGE 49
CENTENARY CUISINE he the
e e ates ea s ht PAGE 71
INTRODUCIN
G
TEN top celeb chef s in Kent, Sussex & Surrey PAGE 81
htin
Maritime meals Set sail with P&O Cruises for an epicurean escape at sea PAGE 54
We meet...
ISSUE 11 WINTER 2015 W&H_Iss11_Winter15_Cover.indd 1
LORRAINE PASCALE How the TV cook has put a fresh spin on healthy eating
20/10/2015 12:24
HE MAY HAVE STUCK TO HIS COMFORT ZONE IN HIS LATEST BOOK, BUT JAMES MARTIN IS ANYTHING BUT COMPLACENT. WE CHAT EXCLUSIVELY TO THE SATURDAY KITCHEN STAR ABOUT BRITISH PRODUCE, HIS LOVE OF MOTOR RACING AND WHY WE’VE STILL GOT A LONG WAY TO GO IN OUR SEARCH FOR NEW CULINARY DISCOVERIES Photography by Yuki Sugiura
YORKSHIRE LAD MAKES GOOD SUMMER 2014
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T
here can be no denying that buying locally, reducing ‘food miles’ and growing your own have become increasingly trendy options among gastronomes in recent years. But for chefs like James Martin, star of TV’s Saturday Kitchen and all-round champion of British food, it’s the produce itself that takes centre stage, wherever it may come from. Not that he doesn’t still make time for dishes a little closer to home, of course, as demonstrated in his latest book, Home Comforts. A tie-in to the BBC series of the same name, this collection of hearty recipes sees the Yorkshire-born chef cooking the food he loves and putting his homeland well and truly in the spotlight. “I was a farmer’s kid, so if I don’t promote British farms, I would get lynched at home! I’ve always promoted British produce; I think it’s the best in the world. Local stuff is great, but too much emphasis now is on this 15 to 2O-mile radius of your restaurant. It’s all very well, but you get the best food from where you get the best food from and I’ve been fortunate on my travels to nd some amazin suppliers and be introduced to some new ones as well. By doing that, you can cherry pick some of the best.” Indeed, our nation’s gourmet offerings have been the lifeblood of James’s illustrious career, which has also seen him venture further a eld to discover ne and e citin cuisines and cultures. A farmer through and through, the 42-year-old was born in Malton, Yorkshire in 1972 and raised on the Castle Howard estate, where his father worked as a catering manager. It was there that he adopted a love of food and gained an invaluable education in where great British ingredients come from. “As a chef, it makes you appreciate food a lot more. Most chefs look at food, pick up the phone and it just arrives the following day, but when you’re working on a farm, you realise how much hard work it is to produce something simple like a carrot or a bit of pork; it takes a lot of work and a lot of time. It made me understand and appreciate food from a young age very quickly.” c uirin such reen n ered insi ht as certainly time well spent, but it was the call of the kitchen that soon peaked James’s interest; far from a lip-smacking meal or an encouraging mentor, however, his move behind the stove was inspired more by pure necessity than anything else. “Working on a farm was great, but it was bloody cold, so the best way to get into the armth as in the kitchen ne t to the a Ever since I was a kid, I wanted to be a chef and managed to work with some great people when I was younger. I was quite lucky because that’s what I always wanted to do.”
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At the age of 16, James began his formal training at Scarborough Technical College, before going to work for Antony Worrall Thompson in the kitchens of One Ninety ueen s ate in ondon t as an e erience that would open many doors for the young cook, who eventually went on to collaborate with a number of London’s leading chefs, including the devil in the kitchen himself, Marco Pierre White. “When you’re working with those kinds of well-known people, as well as the less well-known, it can only have an inspiration on what you do. I was quite fortunate to work ith them, so it had a hu e influence on hat I did. TV wasn’t around then, so working in a restaurant was what you were trained to do; there were no aspirations to do television and I never went looking for it.”
But nd it he did fter o enin the otel and Bistro du Vin in Winchester, aged 22, James cut his media teeth on shows like The Big Breakfast and Ready, Steady, Cook in the 199Os, and it wasn’t long before he became a household name. In addition to cooking programmes such as Operation Hospital Food and United Cakes of America, he even took to the litz and lamour of Strictly Come Dancing in 2OO5, in spite of some initial reservations: “It wasn’t on my bucket list, put it that way! But, like anything, you’ve got to throw yourself into it.” One series to shine a light more than any other was Saturday Kitchen, the weekend staple that introduced James to more than 3.5million viewers a week. Rather than seeing himself as the star, however, the always humble chef views the e erience as an o ortunity to continue learning from the best. Peach Melba with sugar-roasted doughnuts
The ultimate burger
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Smoked salmon, prawn and cucumber mousse
further establishments, including James Martin Manchester, which specialises in his signature style of ‘modern British’. But perhaps even closer to his heart is the Talbot Hotel Restaurant; situated in his hometown of Malton, it boasts an enviable larder on its doorste , usin Yorkshire s nest ingredients, which are cooked simply with care and have put Malton on the map as an essential gastronomic destination. “It has been an amazing journey and you’ve ot to e there and kee your n er on it at all times. I’ve got no time to open 5O restaurants; I’d rather stick to my two or three. People are so often surprised now when I walk in, but I’m a chef by trade and it’s what I do. I enjoy it and it’s my release; I switch my mobile phone off and I can go back to what I’ve done all my life.”
“
“
“The advantage of doing a show like Saturday Kitchen is that you’ve got the best seat in the house. I’m in the best position around because I get to see a little insight of not just the UK’s food, but the world’s food. We’ve had chefs from all over the globe; if they’re coming to the UK, it’s the show they want to be on. It’s all about the food, which is the reason why it’s got the longevity that it’s had.” Regular viewers will no doubt be familiar with the programme’s ‘heaven and hell’ element, where celebrity guests describe their most beloved and most loathed foods; in case you were wondering, James’s are “crab or langoustines” and “horseradish” respectively. But, he insists, the emphasis should always remain on what people are eating rather than who’s cooking it.
for other people. It soon changes, as the older you get, the wiser you get.” Outside the kitchen, James has become equally renowned for his love of motors and bikes. Sparked by his early experiences of driving his childhood farm’s tractor, driving and racing are now lifelong interests for the avid petrol head. Whether or not it will become a more integral part of his career, however, remains to be seen. “I’d love to get into it more seriously, but as you et older, the less likely you are to t in the seat Doing something like Saturday Kitchen takes up your entire eekend, so it s uite dif cult for me to do other stuff, but watch this space. I would have loved to have done it from a young age, but I didn’t have the opportunity; all I drove was a tractor on a farm and that as a out it
“Cooking’s not rocket science, it’s just hard work, so if you want to be one of the best, you’ve got to put in the hours and work with some of the best” “TV chefs have changed over the years. At one point, I really wasn’t keen on the way TV cookery was going, but now it has levelled itself out a bit. There’s still a long way to go and it’s a learning curve, but it should always be about the food rst and not the erson t sounds daft, ut longevity in this game is all about what you put on the plate, and if people like that, it will inspire them to go and do it.” While television naturally puts a high demand on his time, it would seem that James’s true passion still lies in the hustle and bustle of a busy restaurant. Having only been open for t o years, his rst eatery, eeds itchen in Clarence Dock, closed its doors in 2O13; today, however, his thriving business comprises two
Despite his long and fruitful career, one accolade that has remained elusive over the years is the esteemed Michelin star, the hospitality industry’s highest mark of distinction. James appears unfazed, however, as his clientele continues to remain at the forefront of everything he does. “Your customers are the people who are going to pay your bread and butter and you’ve ot to cook for them rst, then everythin else comes from that; you’d be mad chasing a Michelin star if you had nobody in your restaurant. As a 22-year-old head chef, when I rst started out, you think the orld o es you a favour, when you should be standing back and thinking about what you’re going to cook
One opportunity he has been given in recent years is the chance to judge the prestigious Roux Scholarship. Joining a panel alongside celebrity chefs like Rick Stein, Raymond Blanc and Angela Hartnett, he remains immensely proud to be involved in the premier cooking competition. “It’s vitally important. It has been running for 3O years now and is a fascinating thing that can lead to huge opportunities that change people’s lives, so to be one of the few judges they have there is an honour and a privilege. Food’s evolving and the Roux family know it, so they’ve had to adapt and change the competition over the years, but it still sticks to their core ethos of classic French cooking.”
SUMMER 2015
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With people becoming more and more educated about what they eat and where it comes from, our interest in food has certainly progressed, meaning James and his peers have had to up their game and deliver dishes that showcase the wealth of culinary delights available on our shores. Nevertheless, he remains optimistic about our foodie future and the exciting possibilities still to come. “I think we still have a long way to go. It’s certainly heading in the right direction, but there’s a lot more to discover and a lot more to learn. Restaurants have had to develop and we’re certainly more knowledgeable about food than we ever were. There are some amazing artisan producers around and new ones coming through; we haven’t even scratched the surface. There’s a huge world out there to nd and e lore for somethin ne and somethin different As a man who has never been afraid of hard work, James’s pragmatic approach to cooking can be seen in every dish he produces. And while he has no delusions about the hard graft of his chosen profession, he’s keen for young people to follow suit and keep things fresh. “Working with a young team keeps you enthusiastic about what you do, and the most important thing in any job is to work with great people. Cooking’s not rocket science, it’s just hard work, so if you want to be one of the best, you’ve got to put in the hours and work with some of the best. Most people think chefs are nuts, and they ro a ly are, ut to me, it s the est o in the orld No arguments there, as James will soon be continuing his culinary dream on board a new P&O Cruises ship, where he’ll head up an elite group of ‘Food Heroes’ (including fellow cooks like Mary Berry and Pierre Koffmann) to such exotic locations as ain, Monaco and taly to launch Britain s rst cookery school at sea Just another day at the of ce, then, eh, Mr Martin Home Comforts by James Martin is available now, priced £2O from Quadrille. www.jamesmartinchef.co.uk www.jamesmartinmanchester.co.uk www.talbotmalton.co.uk
James Martin: Facts and Figures Born: June 30 1972, Malton, Yorkshire Age: 42 Restaurants: 2 Michelin stars: 0 Cookery books: 17 TV programmes presented: 13 Signature dish: White chocolate bread and butter pudding served warm with a single malt ice cream Food heaven: Crab/langoustine Food hell: Horseradish
ead on to nd out ho to cook one of James s reci es from the comfort of your own kitchen…
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Butternut s uash sou
ith flo er ot read
he est cinnamon rolls
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“I’ve always promoted British produce; I think it’s the best in the world”
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• EAT AT A MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANT The Michelin Guide has long been the Holy Grail of foodie accolades and the leading platform for world-class chefs to showcase their talent – and for good reason. From the quality of ingredients used to the skill in preparation and combination of flavours, Michelin stars reflect ‘what’s on the plate and only what’s on the plate’; dishes can be expensive, but signify a level of uality rarely found anywhere else. • GO ON A FOOD HOLIDAY ith so many gourmet trips available nowadays, you’ll want to book your ticket A AP if you’ve got a passion for tasty travel. They say seeing the world broadens your horizons, and the same can certainly be said for the food you eat by going on an intrepid culinary trip, you’ll get to taste a range of exciting new flavours, meet fellow foodies and sample authentic delights against their native backdrops. • HOST A DINNER PARTY t might sound daunting, but inviting friends over for an extravagant soir e is a great way to test your timing in the kitchen, boosting your confidence and adding a new dimension to your cooking repertoire. t’s a delicate balance of great food, service and conversation, from selecting the perfect music to dressing the table with your finest silverware. ith a little practice, you’re bound to become the host ess with the most est . • PERFECT A SIGNATURE DISH In an age of MasterChefs and Great British Bake Offs, there’s never been a better time to learn how to nail that trademark meal. Try going on a cookery course with friends or teaching yourself from your mum’s favourite dog eared hardback. A little confidence goes a long way too; if you’re willing to experiment with different flavour and colour combinations, you’ll be well on your way to creating a show stopping masterpiece.
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BUCKET LIST
• GO FORAGING Be it mushrooms or truffles, this rural tradition is a great way of learning about food and its environment, as well as being a potentially lucrative endeavour; indeed, truffles in particular can go for hundreds, if not thousands of pounds, making for a worthwhile investment opportunity. ou’ll need to know your stuff, though some fungi can be very poisonous, so make sure you go on a course on how to tell the difference. • SHOP AT A STREET FOOD MARKET oing the weekly ainsbury’s run can be a laborious task, but picking up your groceries at a market is an entirely different kettle of fish. t could be the hustle and bustle of ondon’s Borough Market or the communal atmosphere of more regional stalls, but splashing out on the colourful array of delectable foods on display will provide a wider, fresher range of local produce and delicious artisan goods. • GROW YOUR OWN There are numerous benefits to starting an allotment. n addition to the social benefits of meeting likeminded growers, it’s the perfect excuse to get some fresh air and exercise, raising your serotonin levels and contributing to your general happiness and wellbeing. The variety of food available can often be far greater than that found at the supermarket and you’ll even make a dent in food miles by reducing your overall carbon footprint.
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BUCKET LIST
• MAKE OR CATCH YOUR OWN FOOD Whether you’re a passionate vegetarian or a keen carnivore, making or catching what you eat will add another dimension to your food appreciation. ou could try baking your own bread, going fishing or shooting, brewing your own beer or making your own wine – whatever it is, there’s nothing quite like savouring flavours you’ve created with your own two hands and creating a fresh, nutritional diet that’s entirely your own. • GO WINE TASTING Far from a snooty or pompous pastime, wine tasting is open to all, allowing you to really appreciate the subtle flavours and complexities of the taste, while brushing up on how to tell your Merlots from your Malbecs. You can do it here in the UK or embark on an international wine trail, where you’ll get the chance to soak up the exotic cultures of the world’s most captivating regions and vineyards. • TRY A NEW DISH A DAY Everyone has a food they wouldn’t dream of trying (red-hot chillies, slimy shellfish or leftover offal, for instance), but broadening your horizons is key to any foodie’s gourmet journey. If you’re feeling brave, make a list of foods you’ve never tasted before and try a new one each day for a week or a month. You never know – your taste buds might surprise you with a new favourite dish.
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GASTRO T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A WA R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A W A R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
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gourmet trends
FEAST OF EASTBOURNE
FOR 2016
Culinary delights from The Watering Hole of the South
Foraging Fancies
PAGE 41
DANISH DELICACIES
Discover where the wild things are in East Sussex PAGE 55
LOVE YOUR LEFTOVERS
Why there’s more than meatballs in Scandinavia PAGE 60
Winely Investments
Some of the best ways to put those extras to work PAGE 64
Expert hints and tips on how to splash your cash PAGE 69
Celebrity chef
ISSUE 12 SPRING 2016 W&H_Iss12_Spring16_Cover.indd 1
TOM AIKENS We chat exclusively to the man with the Michelin touch
22/01/2016 10:09
IN WITH THE ROUX Born in Pembury and raised in Shipbourne, Kent, Michel Roux Jr is now known for his Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Gavroche, and his work on popular TV shows like MasterChef and Food & Drink. The celebrated chef speaks exclusively to Gastro about the chefs who inspire his work, a career in television and continuing his family’s legacy MARCH 2013
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Estate and picking wild watercress, strawberries,
world. Hyperbole aside, this exalted
berries and cherries with my grandmother – all
reputation is one that remains as strong
those kinds of things that seem to be in vogue at
today as it did 5O years ago, when Albert Roux and
the moment. We would gather the most weird
Michel Roux Sr blazed a trail for French gourmets
and wonderful things that the English people used
in Britain by opening their Michelin-starred Le
to tut tut at, like snails and cray sh t as ust
Gavroche restaurant in London in 1967.
a normal thing to do in those days, especially for French people. We call it ‘foraging’!” Following in his father’s footsteps, Michel left
our shores ever since can be credited in no small part to the Roux family dynasty, whose acclaimed
school at 16 to embark on an apprenticeship at
restaurant has been at the cutting edge of its
Maître Patissier, Hellegouarche in Paris in 1976.
industry for almost half a century.
From there, his training and understanding of food
The man in charge nowadays is Michel Roux
continued to be honed by the likes of Alain Chapel
Jr – son of Albert, nephew of Michel Sr – who took
at his signature restaurant at Mionay near Lyon,
over the day-to-day running of Le Gavroche in
where Michel worked as Commis de Cuisine and
1991. Under his stewardship it has been consistently
hich he cites as his i est influence to date
placed in Restaurant magazine’s coveted annual
Throughout a rich and varied career, he went on to
list of the World’s 5O Best Restaurants, achieving
work at the Mandarin Hotel in Hong Kong, Le Tante
momentous success and worldwide renown. Once
Claire in London and Charcuterie Mothu in Paris
home to the likes of a young Marco Pierre White
before coming aboard the family business in 1985.
IMAGE: LEE WELLS
Certainly, the prestige of French cuisine on
IMAGE: LEE WELLS
I remember collecting chestnuts on the Fairlawne
considered to be among the best in the
Last year saw Michel return to his old stomping
and Gordon Ramsay, these were certainly big
ground of Shipbourne for a charity dinner at our
shoes to fill. The 54-year-old Michel grew up at the Fairlawne
very own Chaser Inn. As Patron of Kent Farmers’
Estate in Shipbourne where his father worked as
Market Association, he came home to celebrate
a private chef for the Cazalet family. His earliest
the 1Oth anniversary of Shipbourne Farmers’
memories were of the appetising smells of the
Market and raise some much needed funds for
Fairlawne kitchen, where he would play while his
the t iles hurch restoration ro ect
father and mother, Monique, prepared the meals.
running a Michelin-starred restaurant and making
Naturally, a love of food was something that was
a name for himself as one of the country’s leading
ingrained from the start.
celebrity chefs, Shipbourne is still a place that
“I always wanted to be in the kitchen and can
es ite IMAGE: LEE WELLS
I
t’s no secret that French food is widely
remains close to his heart. “It was wonderful coming back. It really hasn’t
never remember thinking anything different.
changed that much – the school is still there and still pretty. The Chaser has ever so slightly gotten bigger, but in essence it’s still the same and the church is identical rivin
ast the entrance to
Fairlawne Estate, it’s still as I remember it. I will be down there again in June to help promote Kent Farmers’ Market Association month and all the local produce, because I do have fond memories and an affection for that particular part of the world.” While we look forward to having Michel back in our neck of the woods soon, his busy schedule keeps him largely London bound. Le Gavroche itself opened its doors in the capital’s Lower Sloane Street in 1967, named after a character in Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables. Its opening night was a star-studded affair, attended by the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Ava Gardner and Robert Redford,
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B
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French cooking at the time. The restaurant was to serve food previously only availa le in rance, o enin the flood ates for a culinary revolution in the UK and becoming the rst restaurant to e a arded three Michelin stars in
ndeed, its si nature dish, the ouffl
uissesse cheese souffl
aked in dou le cream
has remained a staple on the menu, an indication of the ne alance Michel and his team continue to
E
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MEM
strike between the old and the new.
E IMAGE: LEE WELLS
E
M
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E
a testament to the buzz it helped create around
“It’s a massive responsibility and not as easy as
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FOOD - FAVOURITE DISH people think. A lot of people think you walk into a business that’s already made and that you’ve got it easy, but actually it’s probably tougher in many respects. I think I’m continuing the legacy, but in order to do that it has to evolve and be valid for its time, which is something I feel I’ve achieved.” Paying respect to the past while looking ahead to the future is something that has made up the lifeblood of Le Gavroche and the Roux family for many years. To this day, Michel and his team look back to the classics for inspiration, adapting existing recipes from the likes of u uste Escof er ith a uintessentially ou t ist love of the classics is very much a ou thin Escof er amon st others is one of the reat classic chefs that e al ays look back on for reference, but more contemporary chefs that I’ve worked for like lain ha el have influenced me even more hat s the secret to success, think, isn t it t s ndin that reci e, usin it as a ase and making it to your style, but it has to stay true to the essence of the recipe and not completely change, because then it would be false.” Le Gavroche may have lost one of its three Michelin stars in 1993, but Michel remains unfazed and as focused as ever on what he considers to be the far more important goal of delivering great food and impeccable service to his customers.
“
“I have my style and I do think some chefs try too hard to cook for the Michelin guide and for journalists, forgetting that, actually, they should be cooking for their customers. That’s where they go wrong.” We couldn’t agree more, as Michel has certainly stayed true to his roots. In addition to Le Gavroche, which moved to its current location of Upper Brook Street in Mayfair in 1981, he also opened Roux at arliament
uare in May
, follo ed y ou at the andau in
“
November of the same year.
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His responsibilities to his family’s business don’t stop there, as he also remains heavily involved with the Roux Scholarship, a groundbreaking cooking competition for up and coming chefs in the UK, as well as Cactus Kitchens, the UK’s premier cookery school, located in central London; all this while finding the time to run an im ressive
marathons in aid of
isually m aired
Children Taking Action), a charity he is personally and professionally passionate about, having suffered with eyesight problems throughout his life.
“The fact that it’s a children’s charity makes it even more meaningful. When you see these kids that are visually impaired or in some cases blind, getting them out to do a bit of physical activity makes such a huge difference.” Likewise, Michel’s further activities outside the kitchen have brought him enormous success. Alongside his duties at Le Gavroche, he has built up an illustrious television career, most notably presenting and judging programmes like MasterChef, Food
& Drink and The Great British Food Revival. Having announced his departure from the BBC in March, he looks back at his time there with great fondness and respect for the influence these shows continue to have on budding chefs across the nation. “It’s a great opportunity to encourage people to actually et cookin and et interested in different roduce t s uite inspirational, especially programmes like Food & Drink and
MasterChef, which are beautifully made and hit the right tone, the right level, enticing people to have a go at cooking themselves and
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FOOD - FAVOURITE DISH
“Very much in my fashion, she had always
arousing curiosity in the right way. It pushes up
important because if you change too much, you
the standards and can only be a good thing.”
alienate your loyal customers. Even if they only
wanted to be a chef as a child growing up. It would
And yet, in spite of his onscreen success, it
come once a year for that cheese soufflé, it’s very
be nice for her to come back, I would love that, but
remains clear that Michel’s number one priority
important that it’s there and that it hasn’t changed
she’s still got a lot of hard work to do and learn
will always be Le Gavroche.
too much, because without them you no longer
never got in the way of my normal day job, which is running the restaurant.” As an advocator of seeing women succeed in a
have a business.”
“
“It’s still very much in control. Filming days
Following an extensive renovation, Le Gavroche reopened its doors earlier this year, complete with a brand new kitchen and the addition of a
and find her feet.” Until then, Michel keeps an open mind to the potential and promise of a new generation of talented chefs to come. “At the end of the day I really just look at
highly competitive, predominantly male industry,
private dining room called The Chef’s Library, an
the end product and whether someone is good
Michel’s kitchen has seen a number of strong
intimate space with seating for up to six people
enough. It doesn’t matter your gender, your age,
female chefs pass through its doors. But while he believes in a level playing field, he also insists that quality should always come first. “It doesn’t matter whether you’re male or female and I wouldn’t discriminate in that way, but giving the opportunity to female chefs when they’re good enough is the way it should be. Unfortunately some places don’t do that and don’t agree with me. It still happens, not just in our industry, but all over.” He continues to remain hands-on and collaborate with Head Chef Rachel Humphrey and Sous Chefs Monica Galetti and Renee Miller to come up with delicious menus that capture the essence of the restaurant’s past, while also looking ahead to its bright and promising future. “It’s evolution, not revolution. That’s very
“
and decorated with a variety of Michel’s own
your colour or your creed. If you’re good enough,
cookbooks from over the years.
then that’s it; you’ve got the job.”
SOME CHEFS TRY TOO HARD TO COOK FOR THE MICHELIN GUIDE WHEN THEY SHOULD BE COOKING FOR THEIR CUSTOMERS. THAT’S WHERE THEY GO WRONG
Michel will be honouring his commitment to presenting a new BBC4 documentary, Chocolat, which is due to air later this year.
It’s this attention to detail that makes the Roux
legacy so special. By honouring the memory of what has come before, while never losing sight of what lies ahead, Michel continues to take his restaurant in new and exciting directions. As his daughter Emily continues her work as a chef in Paris, only time will tell if she too follows in her father’s footsteps by joining him at Le Gavroche.
43 Upper Brook Street, London W1K 7QR O2O 74O8 O881 www.le-gavroche.co.uk www.michelroux.co.uk SUMMER 2014
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a Man for
all Seasons
OVER THE COURSE OF A 4O-YEAR CAREER, RAYMOND BLANC HAS HAD A BOUNDLESS PASSION FOR PRODUCE, BECOMING ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST ACCLAIMED CHEFS AND A MENTOR FOR 27 MICHELIN STAR WINNERS. WE SIT DOWN FOR AN EXCLUSIVE CHAT ABOUT FRANCE, FISH FINGERS AND WHY BRITAIN IS FINALLY FINDING ITS FOODIE FEET Photographs by Paul Wilkinson/David Griffen SUMMER 2014
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I
f you were to ask Marco Pierre White where he learned to cook, Raymond Blanc’s name would inevitably be dropped into the conversation. As the two Michelin starred chef who brought seasonality to our shores, he can now boast a reputation as an international icon who has launched the careers of a number of high ro le, eers and rot s ndeed, anyone who’s anyone has worked with him at one point or another. Born on November 19 1949, the 65 year old, self taught chef was raised in Besançon in eastern France, between Burgundy and the Jura mountains t as here here he ecame inspired by the local terroir, learning from his mother – the formidable Maman Blanc – about the ene ts of usin fresh, local roduce and ingredients. Having moved to England in 1972, Raymond o ened his rst restaurant, the t o Michelin starred Les Quat’Saisons in Summertown, ford, ve years later t asn t until , however, that he realised his personal vision of creating a hotel and restaurant in the form of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Great Milton, Oxfordshire, which in turn has also twice received the coveted accolade. Since then, Raymond has established a culinary empire and built a reputation for his love of all thin s seasonal n addition to being honoured with an OBE, he has opened his own cookery school, become a bestselling author and household name on television and created the nationwide group of 2O Brasserie Blanc restaurants, while also supporting a number of charities and initiatives for organic food and sustainability. Of course, his chosen path hasn’t been without its challenges. Renowned for a workaholic lifestyle, he suffered two stress induced mini strokes at the age of 42 and has been through two divorces, notably from business partner and Belmond Le Manoir co founder, Jenny Blanc, in , ith hom he has two sons, Olivier and Sebastien. And yet, it would seem that his mission to educate and inspire is far from over. Here, we take a look ack at an illustrious career and nd out hy this particular Frenchman is still hungry after all these years. You grew up in the Franche-Comté region of eastern France. How did this first inspire a love of food? t an early a e as an e erienced hunter gatherer, inspired by my mother and father. have fond memories of e lorin the reat outdoors with my brothers and it has long been my vision to have plenty of outdoor space to grow fruit, vegetables and herbs for my very own seasonal menus. Maman Blanc’s seamless ability to make a fantastic meal for
the family from the produce we collected locally or picked from the vegetable patch is com letely ins irin ill al ays remem er a casserole she used to make, with the freshest vegetables pulled from the garden. Speaking of your mother, she must have had a strong influence on your passion for cooking. Is this something that’s always been in the family? Maman Blanc, here do e in he cooks ith intuition ould call her a reat cook, ut not a chef lso, think it ould e ron of me to talk of Maman Blanc without talking about her maman also – my grandmother – Germaine. She also had amazing culinary talents that were respected throughout the region. She was known as La Mere Tournier and she was a genius. She passed on this cooking DNA to Maman Blanc, ho assed it on to me, the rst male chef in the family. We launched a course last June in The Raymond Blanc Cookery School dedicated to spreading Maman Blanc’s philosophy on simple, rustic food.
Ceviche scallop with blood orange
Has the success of your cookery school changed your view of cooking? Do you see things in a different light as a teacher? f anythin , it s im roved it eachin and training is one of the most important things to me love to ass on hat kno eo le always think there’s so much mystery surrounding cooking and being able to break that down and teach people how easy it is to make a delicious meal is just one of the many reasons love hat do he sim lest ingredients can make the most delicious reci es en oy sim le and holesome food such as Morteau saucisson, omt cheese, homemade preserves and crusty bread. That being said, you’re entirely self taught. Is this something you would recommend or do you see more value in professional training? t s a dif cult uestion for me to ans er m self tau ht, ut also run a cookery school You can only learn from your own mistakes, but you can also learn how to avoid mistakes from havin trainin t truly de ends on the individual and think the est trainin one can receive is a combination of both. To get far in this industry, you need to be able to rely on others, but also learn new skills and experiment yourself.
Green and white asparagus with herbs
What advice would you offer to today’s young chefs who are looking to break into that industry? The restaurant business is one of the tou hest around the ressure can de nitely take its toll. You must be brave and maybe a little mad. Even when you’re in, the struggle isn’t over. You have to be a craftsman,
Bouillabaisse, red mussels and Brandade
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a manager of money, of people, of any situation that life may throw at you. You employed these skills to full effect when you opened your Belmond Le Manoir hotel and restaurant in Oxfordshire. What was the inspiration behind it? While my dream was for a small restaurant, with maybe one or two rooms to accommodate my friends after an evening enjoying the best food and wine, I lost my heart to a beautiful old manor house, full of charm and character. And so my dream changed into one where I could create a hotel and restaurant in harmony, where my uests ould nd erfection in food, comfort and service. How has your approach to your restaurants changed and developed over time? I don’t follow fashions; I enjoy training young people and passing on my knowledge. I’ve always taken young people, trained them, empowered them and given them a programme to support them. I also learn a great deal from those who I work with. I’ve always believed that a great restaurant is a great team and that each member plays a role. I surround myself with wonderful people who I trust and that hasn’t changed. Belmond Le Manoir seems to have become something of an institution for the level of talent that has passed through its doors... The most rewarding part of my career is teaching young people to open up to new ideas and be curious. Belmond Le Manoir has trained and mentored many young people, launched many careers and helped dozens to start their own businesses: 27 Michelin starred chefs, 4O to 5O managers, the world’s best sommeliers and numerous craftsmen. And now they are doing the same – passing on that knowledge. They cannot help it because it’s part of the culture.
Beef tartare with horseradish sorbet
And when it comes to your own heroes, which chefs ha e had the iggest influence on you There are many chefs who I admire, both from the past and present; the list is too long to mention Michel ou , ho fou ht ith, layed football with and is now one of my greatest friends, Keith Floyd – the bon viveur who made such great dishes and television – Heston, Marco Pierre, Michael Caines... Where does it end? They’re all big names who have contributed to our insatiable foodie culture. What do you think it is about celebrity chefs and cooking that has become so iconic in the public eye? Do you see yourself in the same way? I’m a chef and I’ll always be a chef; being a ‘celebrity’ has sort of just come with being on television. For me, I chose to do television because it provides a platform of education. Being a self taught chef myself, I wanted to give
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Almond clafoutis with apricot
that chance to young people. That being said, now more than ever, it’s easy to make quality dishes in your own kitchen and I think celebrity chefs had a part in that. It’s de mysti ed cookin to the eneral u lic and that’s what’s made it so big today. I hope that [the television series] The Very Hungry Frenchman and How to Cook Well have helped to demystify the whole process of cooking and creating great dishes without all the fuss. With so many media commitments, how much time do you still spend in the kitchen? What do you mean? I’m always in the kitchen! Whether it’s on the TV or at home. But yes, it’s true; I’m a perfectionist, even when it comes to being out of the kitchen. The whole setup of the restaurant, hotel, the gardens, everything at Belmond Le Manoir – I think about it almost , ut ll al ays nd time for cookin
Has cooking in Britain for so long changed your perception of British food? My goal was always to recreate that French idyll. My restaurants feature seasonal and local ingredients and I’ve made sure of that since my rst restaurant o ened in he rst British food had hen arrived as a sh n er as astonished ecause it as a s uare and o viously looked nothin like a sh But that was 3O years ago, and now Britain makes just as much cheese as France does and the food culture is growing – if anything, it features an international cuisine that France doesn t have as also astounded to nd that most produce was imported. Now the British are discovering that it makes more sense to use local producers; the food is fresher and cheaper as it hasn’t travelled hundreds or even thousands of miles to be served on the plate. There is a growing appreciation; food is now on our minds and isn’t just seen as a commodity.
Which is something you helped bring to the fore, receiving an honorary OBE in 2OO8 for your services in promoting culinary excellence and for raising awareness of the importance of healthy food. What is it about fresh, seasonal produce that’s so important to you? I was honoured to receive such recognition. I’m thrilled that building my successful career in cooking has grown alongside building an awareness and appreciation of good food, healthy dishes and quality produce for British palates. Seasonal and sustainable produce is important to me and my team at Belmond Le Manoir; we are totally seasonal in our menus and we grow as much of our own vegetables, salad leaves and fruit as we can. My mother always cooked with the produce from our own garden and food that my father had hunted, shed or fora ed sin fresh, seasonal produce is what I’m accustomed to. I have always been, and will always be, an ambassador for healthy, fresh food.
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Has this approach to produce changed our foodie culture? England was a very different place 3O years ago. Food was class-led and luxury was exclusive. The British separated food from everything. It had become a mere commodity, which was produced intensively, heavily processed, heavily branded and marketed. For the majority, food was devalued; it was a fuel to feed the body and the cheaper, the better. It was about shelf life, uniform size and colour rather than taste. The primary ingredient was so bad that you had to add more salt, su ar, colourin , flavourin and additives. But there’s a quiet revolution going on. People are starting to understand again that food connects with everything – with your environment, society, farm, home, family values, the health of the nation. It’s truly exciting to see people start to respect food, enjoy food and give it value.
Courgette tempura
Finally, what does the future hold for your career? I have just introduced a new heritage garden at Belmond Le Manoir and re-introduced fruits and varieties that were forgotten for so long. The gardens are as much a part of the place as the food and exceptional service and gardening is a huge passion of mine. We created The Raymond Blanc National Heritage Garden Competition to raise awareness of the ongoing work by [environmental charity] Garden Organic. Our garden has been designed to showcase Heritage Vegetables and demonstrate the principles of organic gardening and sustainability. Heritage Vegetables are endangered varieties that were once the mainstay of our gardens and many of the varieties have wonderful stories to tell, as well as tasting good – I hope that this inspires others to try something similar! For reservations and further information about Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and The Raymond Blanc Cookery School, visit www.belmond.com/lemanoir, telephone O1844 278 881 or email reservations.mqs@belmond.com
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