Rock&Vine GOOD LIFE IN THE TEXAS HILL COUNTRY
BRINGING
BACK THE
BISON HAND MADE: TEXAS CRAFTSMEN FOCUS ON QUALITY, EXCELLENCE
GROWERS GO GREEN with hydroponics ROCKANDVINEMAG.COM $4.95
CREAMERY BRINGS a taste of Italy FALL 2020
COMMUNIT Y IS
CONVERSATION A new neighborhood of custom farmhouses that look out over the Texas Hill Country. Your peace of home.
FriedenTX.com | 888-211-2270 | sales@friedentx.com
reserve your lot today
2
Rock&Vine
G R A P E C R E E K V I N E YA R D S
O N E W I N E D E S T I N AT I O N HWY290 | FREDERICKSBURG, TEXAS
H E AT H S PA R K L I N G W I N E S
FALL 2020
3
FEATURES
in every issue
12
8
THE CRAFTSMEN
Publisher's Letter
Sallie Lewis
9
With hand-crafted precision, these Texas artisans create true treasures
Contributors
24 GREEN HAUS
Former Whole Foods employees start a hydroponic operation.
86 Stompin’ Grounds
102
Sallie Lewis
50
Drinkery Maps
HILL COUNTRY ROAMING
118
Producers share all-natural outlook with area chefs. Kimberly Giles & Ken Esten Cooke
End Notes
Robert G. Gomez captures tools of the trade at Seth Stidham’s shop in Johnson City. Rock&Vine
4
ON THE COVER: Robert G. Gomez captures one of the herd of majestic bison animals at Roam Ranch near Fredericksburg.
DEPARTMENTS 34
90
TASTE
DRINKERY
Phil Giglio left his law career to pursue his passion for Italian dairy products. Ashley Brown
45 TASTE
Chef creates a foodie’s diversion in a Texas barbecue capital. Ashley Brown
60 HAUS
A local brings Nigerian style to her B&B operation. Kimberly Giles
77 HAUS
Designer Jennifer Eggleston talks character Kimberly Giles
Benjamin Calais is an old-school artist making exceptional wines Andre Boada
95 DRINKERY
Real Spirits puts passion into its bottles Ashley Brown
108 HISTORY
Buffalo Soldiers helped usher in westward settlement Ken Esten Cooke
112 IN THE HILLS
One woman dedicates life to the health of Texas rivers. Daniel Oppenheimer
83 DRINKERY
Brewers talk about struggles and solutions during COVID-19 Lee Nichols
FALL 2020
5
6
Rock&Vine
Mon. - Thurs. 10-5:15 Fri. & Sat. 10-7:15 Sun. 12-5:15 Check website for Holidays Phone: (830) 990-8747 email: wine@fbgwinery.com
www.fbgwinery.com
247 W. Main (in town - one block west of the Courthouse) Large parking area in front RV parking in back.
Fredericksburg, TX 78624 FALL 2020
7
contributors
Rock&Vine Featuring the best life has to offer in the Texas Hill Country. A product of Fredericksburg Publishing Company. Publisher/Editor Ken Esten Cooke Contributing Editor Sherrie Geistweidt Design Editor Andrea Chupik Contributing Writers Andre Boada, Ashley Brown, Jennifer Eggleston, Kimberly Giles, Sallie Lewis, Lee Nichols, Daniel Oppenheimer Contributing Photographers/Artists Barney Kane, Robert G. Gomez, Advertising/Marketing Director Kimberly Giles Account Executives Cindy G. Burdorf, Ann Duecker, Kim Jung Rock&Vine Magazine 712 W. Main St. | P.O. Box 1639 Fredericksburg, Texas 78624 Phone 830 997 2155 rockandvinemag.com SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION: $20 for two years www.rockandvinemag.com
COPYRIGHT: Rock&Vine Magazine is published by the Fredericksburg Publishing Company. No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems, without permission of the publisher. Editorial content does not reflect the opinions of the publisher of this magazine. Editorial and advertising does not constitute advice or endorsement, but is considered informative.
Majestic buffalo a symbol of new life, regeneration By KEN ESTEN COOKE Publisher ith the stunning photography of Robert Gomez, readers can look at our cover and see a theme in this edition of Rock & Vine is the American Buffalo and its beneficial connection to the land. The return of the buffalo, almost extinct a century ago, gives rise to what was good and natural about our early plains existence. It has revived and become a symbol of rejuvenation. It also is part of the moniker of some who were instrumental in the expansion of the west. We revisited Roam Ranch here in Fredericksburg and took some chef friends with us so they could learn about that amazing place. As we see rooftop encroachment from our big city neighbors, the stewardship of our lands becomes more top of mind. We keep a focus on people or entities doing good things for the environment we find so special. That included David Bamberger and his team at Selah Ranch in a recent issue and others. In this edition, we feature Sky Lewey, who is one of the few people focused on river and riparian health in Texas. Her methods and suggestions all point back to the health of the land. We also feature Mike and Melissa Maynard of Hunt, who created a hydroponic growing operation from scratch. Their care and love for pure and healthy food is admirable. And we took a horseback ride with a former attorney turned creamery owner in Blanco. While we’re still in the throes of coronavirus, see how breweries and wineries are dealing with it. We also lend our support to some of the antiquated laws they are trying to change to help them through this time. And there’s a lot more enjoyable content in this edition from artisans and people who are exceptional in their industries. We encourage everyone to take an interest in our own little piece of the landscape. Join your local chapter of the Native Plant Society of Texas to get lots of good information. And lastly, be like a buffalo in these crazy times - a symbol of strength and stamina, agile, calm and dedicated to its family. –R&V– We want to know what you think about our growing publication. Please send feedback and story ideas to ken@ fredericksburgstandard.com. And thanks for reading.
8
Rock&Vine
WRITE US
ADVERTISE
SUBSCRIBE
RockandVineMag@gmail.com
Kimberly Giles kgiles@fredericksburgstandard.com 830.285.7230 ig: rocknvine
$20 for two years Send to 712 W. Main St., Fredericksburg, TX 78624 or subscribe at RockandVineMag.com
Editorial submissions: ken@fredericksburgstandard.com
Andre Boada, a 20-year veteran in the wine and spirits industry, is a certified Advanced Sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers.
Robert G. Gomez is an Austin-based, Texas-raised photographer with a bachelor of arts in history from the University of Texas and an associate’s degree in photography from Austin Community College. His work can be found at robertggomez.com. Barney Kane is our resident ad production designer on staff at Rock & Vine Magazine.
I am writing to tell you how much I enjoyed your recent edition of Rock & Vine, which I got with my subscription to the San Marcos Record. Suggestions of where to go and what to see were interesting and I am planning to make a day trip to the Fredericksburg area once the coronavirus restrictions have lifted.
I also plan on making the pralines recipe. A year ago, I made a mushroom lasagna recipe from your magazine and it was my grandson's favorite.
Andrea Chupik is a graphic designer / art director living in Fredericksburg. View her work at designranchcreative.com. Sallie Lewis is a San Antonio writer currently based in Fredericksburg. She has a Master's Degree in writing from Johns Hopkins University and her work has been published in The WSJ Magazine, Garden & Gun, and Town & Country. Find her online at sallielewis.co. Lee Nichols is a freelance writer based in Austin. He loves beer and two-stepping in Texas dance halls.
Kimberly Giles is our Rock & Vine Ambassador, who is always scouting for stories in our Texas Hill Country, email her @ kgiles@fredericksburgstandard.com
Letter to the editor
I particularly enjoyed the article "Bamberger: A Strongly Rooted Legacy" because I visited Selah on a Master Naturalist field trip some years ago.
Ashley Brown is a freelance writer and editor living in Wimberly. She loves to travel around the Hill Country to hike, make discoveries, and meet creative people.
Jennifer Eggleston is owner of Cottage Industry and is featured in Southern Living’s designer network.
...
Daniel Oppenheimer is a fifth-generation Texan based in Gillespie County. He is the Land Program Manager for the Hill Country Alliance.
Marilyn Brister San Marcos
... What a beautiful magazine - I felt like I had taken a short vacation! Loved your quote of Albert Einstein, "The monotony and solitude of a quiet life stimulate a creative mind." It certainly did. Marilyn Volpe San Marcos
VISIT US ONLINE AT
rockandvinemag.com FALL 2020
9
A H E R I TA G E R E I N C A R N AT E D
Five generations ago our family began farming in India, cultivating crops of cocoa, coconuts, rice, and turmeric. Today, our family calls Texas home. We believe our wines exemplify how the blending of two cultures can create something authentic, yet entirely new and exciting. Come experience a heritage reincarnated! 5 MINUTES FROM DOWNTOWN
414 GOEHMANN LANE • FREDERICKSBURG KALASICELLARS.COM 10
Rock&Vine
THE BILGER FAMILY WOULD LIKE TO INVITE YOU TO VISIT ADEGA VINHO Thursday through Sunday 11am to 6pm, at 1000 South RR 1623 in Stonewall, Texas 830-265-5765
ADEGAVINHO.COM FALL 2020
11
T E X AS Clint Orms Ingram, TX studio
By SALLIE LEWIS Photos by JASON RISNER & ROBERT G. GOMEZ 12
Rock&Vine
CLINT ORMS ENGRAVERS AND SILVERSMITHS STIDHAM OUTFITTERS & CUSTOM LEATHER
CRAFTSMEN Seth Stidham Johnson City, TX workshop
FALL 2020 13
nside Clint Orms Engravers and Silversmiths, a small team of craftsmen huddle over their benches, surrounded by tools and lamplight. Throughout the workshop, steer horns protrude from the walls flanked by framed magazine articles and glossy photos of engraved silver buckles. Over the years, Clint Orms has built a sterling reputation for his classic designs and heirloom-quality handiwork. The soft-spoken designer is best known for his handcrafted belt buckles and silver jewelry, all of which is worn and collected by notable clientele, such as Lyle Lovett, Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and Queen Noor of Jordan, to name a few. Orms grew up in Wichita Falls and got his start making hand-tooled belts in high school. “I’ve always been making stuff,” he shared. He went on to apprentice under a handful of silver designers across the west, lured by the timelessness and longevity of the medium. For the past seventeen years, his store in The Old Ingram Loop Shopping District has been a revered, under-theradar boutique in this humble Hill Country community, and a place frequented by the state’s most discerning shoppers. The street-front showroom is stocked with fine leather belts and a trove of hand-engraved buckles, bracelets, money clips, and bolo ties, all of which gleam inside glass displays.
14
Rock&Vine
Orms’ designs are made to be passed down over generations. His buckles in particular – each named after Texas counties – are laden with symbolism and can be customized per the client’s unique wishes and specifications. Commissioned items are all about telling stories, and Orms enjoys marking them in metal through ranch brands, initials, alma maters, and special motifs like hummingbirds and bluebonnets. Buckles can take anywhere from fifteen to eighty hours on average to make, depending on the detail involved. And while they may be his most popular item, Orms has worked with clients on a diversity of goods, from custom ball markers for golf enthusiasts to tiny pillboxes for storing dried chile pequins. “The sky is the limit,” he shared of his customer’s requests. “We just want to make something that’s going to be a part of their family.” Behind the storefront, customers can watch as Orms’ team works with grit and grace in their intimate workshop. “Everyone has their own style,” he said of his engravers adding, “We train each other.” Collectively, their skill and attention to detail imbues the work with a depth of character that’s unique to the industry.
THE SKY IS THE LIMIT. WE JUST WANT TO MAKE SOMETHING THAT’S GOING TO BE A PART OF THEIR FAMILY. - Clint Orms
FALL 2020 15
Part of that depth stems from the myriad materials that go into Orms’ designs. Long cabinets with thin drawers conceal precious gemstones along with sheets of sterling silver and gold. One custom silver buckle might feature golden cactus with prickly pears made of rubies. Another might have sterling silver flowers with sapphire centers. The designer’s own buckle boasts a diamond “C.” The elevated yet tasteful nature of the collection makes Orms’ work a fine complement to lifestyles both on and off the ranch. Each piece is made with an appreciation for hard work and Western values. The designs are both nostalgic and on-trend, a timeless weaving of past and present. Slipping a Clint Orms’ cuff around your wrist or buckling a hand-engraved belt around your waist, one can feel the weight of its maker. It is an homage to the craft and the craftsmen who made it, and the life it will live for generations to come.
16
Rock&Vine
ixty miles west of Ingram, Seth and Jasmin Stidham are putting their own stamp on hill country style. The couple moved from Georgetown to Johnson City ten years ago and started their leather goods business, Stidham Outfitters & Custom Leather, in 2014. Today, the brand has grown into a well-recognized brick-and-mortar destination with both men’s and women’s clothing, homewares, Western antiques, and unique handtooled leather goods. While Seth operates the leather production, Jasmin sources the antiques and manages the brand’s social media marketing. Johnson City native Brittni Young, who came on as a buyer and a business
partner in 2019, is responsible for buying the women’s clothing and home goods. Like Orms, the Stidham’s clientele is wide-ranging. “It’s typical hill country,” said Seth, who is a fourthgeneration maker and shop owner. “You might have a limo pull up with ladies going to a winery but five minutes later you have a guy with a cattle trailer walk in – it’s a neat mix.” That mix includes everyone from foreign dignitaries to politicians, rodeo cowboys, and musicians like Ronnie Dunn of Brooks & Dunn. Last year, Texas Governor Greg Abbott’s office reached out to Seth prior to his meeting with the Prime Minister of
FALL 2020 17
Japan. Knowing of the Prime Minister’s love of archery, Abbott solicited Seth to make him a custom leather quiver for his arrows. Seth’ custom work – be it leather belts, briefcases, wallets or saddles – makes up 75% of his business. His specialty is the Sheridan style, a renowned carving tradition originating in Wyoming featuring swirls and floral motifs. Growing up in Georgetown, Seth was raised with an appreciation for artistry, and he was gifted his first set of carving tools as a young boy. “My grandma was an artist, she painted and my mom painted,” he said. “I’ve always been drawn to handmade stuff, painting, silver, woodwork…” Later, Seth worked for Wildfire Saddlery in Salado and apprenticed with his friend and fellow leather carver, Wayne Decker of Bar U Custom Leather. “He took me under his wing and would teach me the correct way on everything,” he said. “He really upped my game.”
18
Rock&Vine
Today, people visiting Stidham Outfitters & Custom Leather can glimpse inside Seth’s workshop and witness an age-old artistry firsthand. “I hand draw everything. Every piece is totally unique,” he said. “You’re not going to have the same piece as anyone else.” He uses saddle skirting leather from Hermann Oak Leather Co. out of St. Louis, which holds its shape and lasts longer than thinner leather varietals. “I don’t skimp on material – I use the highest grade you can buy,” he shared. “If you’re going to put that much time into a piece you want it and the impressions you make – the tooling – to last as long as possible.” Seth’s commitment to his craft and his dedication to timelessness and tradition mirrors that of Orms’. “I take pride in what I do. I don’t want to be stale,” he said. “I want to be the best I can be.” & RV
I TAKE PRIDE IN WHAT I DO. I DON’T WANT TO BE STALE, I WANT TO BE THE BEST I CAN BE. - Seth Stidham
FALL 2020 19
20
Rock&Vine
TEXAS’ PREMIER ESTATE WINERY
Frederiisburg, Texas
www.augustavin.com FALL 2020 21
Our luxury Texas Pecan Oil bath and skincare products are hand crafted, all natural and beautifully designed with every skin type in mind.
Most are not aware that Pecan Oil has the highest antioxidants and fatty acids over every nut oil currently used in skin care, which is why San Saba Soap Company formulated their line around it, having access to the best Pecans in the world.
Come visit our new location 102 W Austin • Frederickburg TX sansabasoap.com
22
Rock&Vine
vineyard
~
winery
~
tasting room
Enjoy a Sommelier Guided, small bite food and wine pairing experience today.
RESERVE YOUR TASTING EXPERIENCE @
KuhlmanCellars.com/Experiences
Kuhlman Cellars 18421 E US HWY 290 • STONEWALL, TEXAS
512.920.2675 FALL 2020 23
HUNT-ING FOR HYDROPONICS
24
Rock&Vine
Mike and Melissa Maynard of Mikey’s Garden
by SALLIE LEWIS photos by ROBERT G. GOMEZ
ike and Melissa Maynard never expected that a trip to Walt Disney World might someday spark a business idea. And yet, on a family trip in 1996, it did just that. With their kids in tow, the Maynards saw Disney’s impressive hydroponic garden, with its water-grown vegetables and Mickey Mouse-shaped watermelons, all of which were grown in the absence of soil. The experience planted a seed that would bloom roughly twenty years later as they launched Mikey’s Garden in Hunt. “That made a great impression on me,” Mike said on a hot summer day in July. “It was always in the back of my mind to set up a little greenhouse and see what we could do with hydroponics.” Mike and Melissa’s appreciation for food started years earlier when they met while working at Whole Foods in Austin. “We learned a lot about where food comes from, local farmers, the struggle of how to get food from one place to the next,” she said. In 2003, they started a small greenhouse operation in their backyard in Austin using both hydroponics and aquaponics. The latter system uses nitrogen-rich fish waste as a nutrient source to promote plant growth. At the same time, the couple educated themselves by reading books, watching YouTube videos, and enrolling in conferences around the country. One summer, they attended a class in Wisconsin and the proverbial lightbulb turned on. “Right there it all clicked for us,” Mike remembered.
FALL 2020 25
26
Rock&Vine
It wasn’t long after that that their side-hustle proved prolific and they were supplying their neighbors with lettuces, tomatoes, and cucumbers from their garden. After Mike retired from Whole Foods and their youngest son graduated from high school, the Maynards left Austin and moved to their ranch in Hunt. They hired a company to design a greenhouse for both aquaponics and hydroponics, and the first seeds at Mikey’s Garden were planted in March 2015. A year and a half later, the catfish outgrew their tanks and the subsequent bluegills couldn’t produce enough waste, and they struggled to keep the pH balance under control. Because these systems only work if the plants are supplied with the perfect environment, the Maynards decided to focus all of their attention on hydroponics moving forward. “Hydroponics is beautiful – you give the plants exactly what they need,” Melissa said. Every week, they add a mixture of nutrients to the water, like calcium, magnesium, and iron, while the electro-conductivity, pH balance, and the water temperature are measured daily. The Maynard’s greenhouse is a double poly insulated structure that’s oriented from north to south to ensure the best sun exposure throughout the day. Inside, there’s a 40-foot water wall on the south end, which turns on and off as needed. Water runs across the pads of the wall and draws through it with the help of four large fans, which keep the interiors cool. In the winter, there are four propane heaters to adjust the temperature, which is monitored year-round by a computercontrolled thermostat. Furthermore, the greenhouse’s plastic cover inflates for insulation. “That’s what got me hooked was all the technical stuff,” admitted Mike adding, “There are all kinds of mechanics that go into a greenhouse.” Hydroponic farming has been around since the Aztecs, and continues to grow in popularity today. It presents a particular advantage for places with little arable land, such as the United Arab Emirates, for example. Even the International Space Station has its own hydroponic vegetable garden.
Sustainability is the hallmark of hydroponic farming. There is no dirt nor tractor required, and while the up-front cost is expensive due to the greenhouse, the systems, the motors, fans, and air stones to name a few, the cost-savings long-term are considerable. For one, hydroponic systems use 90% less water than traditional soil-grown crops. The Maynards recirculate 22,000 gallons of water at Mikey’s Garden. Because their plantings are protected from the sun, the water stays contained and the plants take only the amount they need. Their plants are grown in eight troughs of water, each measuring 4 feet wide by 92 feet long and 1 foot deep. At any one time, nearly 13,000 plants are held in Styrofoam rafts which float on top of the water. The nursery has another 8,000 plants, and every one is recorded with a lot number, along with when it was seeded and when it left. The rafts are taken to the harvesting area and each new plant is removed and inspected before being tasted for quality control. “They all taste different – some are sweeter, some are nuttier,” said Melissa. From seed to harvest, their wide-ranging selection of arugulas, lettuces, and kale cycles from six to eight weeks, depending on the type; herbs take six to twelve weeks. Walking through the 6,000 squarefoot greenhouse at Mikey’s Garden, glimmers of green emerge in every shade imaginable – emerald, lime, olive and jade, chartreuse, moss, kelly, and sage. The room is aromatic and oxygen-enriched, and stepping inside feels like taking a deep breath in crisp, cool mountain air. “We love doing what we’re doing,” said Melissa. “We feel it is our purpose to provide really healthy and clean, safe food.” Melissa’s palpable passion for plants and gardening is matched by that of her husband’s. She wears a small lettuce charm around her neck, and walks briskly through the aisles of Stevia, Garlic Chives, Purple Basil, and Dandelion Greens. She passes Parsley, White Sage, Watercress, and lush rosettes of Salanova lettuce, pointing out each plant’s unique characteristics, like Purslane, with its lemony flavor and rich Omega-3 profile, and Holy Basil, with its sacred Hindu history.
FALL 2020 27
Though Mikey’s Garden is not open to the public, you can find the Maynard’s leafy greens and culinary herbs at the Pearl Farmer’s Market in San Antonio on Saturdays and Sundays and the Kerrville Farmer’s Market-Downtown every Friday. They also service restaurants in the region, like Otto’s in Fredericksburg, and are looking into new markets like Austin due to increased demand. “The more local the food system becomes the safer our food will be,” said Melissa. “I want to help people understand that we need our farmers. We want to be part of the education.” The couple splits their daily responsibilities with Melissa taking charge of the garden’s production, selection, and harvesting, along with arranging their popular lettuce bouquets. Mike is responsible for the chemistry, nutrients, and ‘water whispering.’ “I have a knack for seeing and feeling in the water what the plants need,” he said. Their teamwork is evident but perhaps never more so than their most recent hurdle, which came in 2019 after Mike’s lung cancer diagnosis. “It’s given me a whole new outlook on life,” he shared. “The way this woman took care of this business and took care of me as was just amazing.” Thankfully, today Mike is in remission and he and Melissa are devoted to their growing business, which continues to flourish five years since the first seeds were planted. “Everyone has their thing in life,” she said. “This is our contribution.” R&V
28
Rock&Vine
WHERE TO BUY: PEARL FARMER’S MARKET San Antonio Saturdays and Sundays KERRVILLE FARMER’S MARKET Downtown every Friday HAT & HEART FARMS Fredericksburg BRIDGETS BASKET Hunt
FALL 2020 29
HABERDASHERYBOUTIQUE.COM 221 E MAIN STREET, FREDERICKSBURG (830) 990-2462
30
Rock&Vine
830.998.1556 • BLACKCHALKHOME.COM • FOLLOW US @BLACKCHALKHOME @BLACKCHALKHOMEANDLAUNDRY FALL 2020
31
and enter to
WIN!
2 years $20
Come shop all your favorite brands
WINNER RECEIVES: LIFE IS GOOD YELLOW BOX SPERRY HAUTE SHORE BAGS BRÜMATE DAYDREAMER TEES BIRKENSTOCK RAY-BAN KENDRA SCOTT
DEAR JOHN FREE PEOPLE Z SUPPLY PJ SALVAGE ALEX AND ANI SANUK STEVE MADDEN KUT
2 NIGHT STAY AT NJEM HAUS • VINOCADRE private VIP sommelier experience • CALAIS Winery
V I N O CA D R E AN ALLIANCE OF WINE SPECIALISTS
106 E. MAIN ST. FREDERICKSBURG, TX
830.990.8900 shop our new online store
zertz.com @zertzfbg zertztagram/ 32
Rock&Vine
WINERY
NjemHaus.com
visit our website for full details
rockandvinemag.com
Rock&Vine
SUBSCRIBE
LIVE OUR ISSUE GIVEAWAY!
Ololo is a globally inspired collection of four guest houses on the outskirts of Fredericksbug, Texas. Situated around a mature cedar tree in a secluded pasture, it’s a place to rest, reflect and connect.
BE iNSPIRED
@stayatololo
BOOK YOUR STAY
FALL 2020 33 StayatOlolo.com
Giglio at the Floresville ranch.
34
Rock&Vine
taste
OROBIANCO BRINGS
The Tastes of Italy TO BLANCO By ASHLEY BROWN Photos by JODY HORTON Product photos provided by OROBIANCO
ust three years ago, Phil Giglio was working as a corporate lawyer in Chicago. Now, he’s living on a ranch in Fredericksburg — surrounded by water buffalo, pigs, sheep, and ducks — and he’s about to open Texas’s first water buffalo mozzarella creamery and gelateria in Blanco: Orobianco. Giglio grew up in rural upstate New York and couldn’t get to a bustling city fast enough. He moved to Sydney, Australia when he was sixteen and spent thirteen years living in cities all over the world. Then he was ready to return to country living. For family reasons, he moved to Texas, looked around, and realized it was the perfect place to do something in agriculture.
Several years ago, he spent months in the Campania region of southern Italy, where his family is originally from, and where they make Italy’s most esteemed water buffalo mozzarella. Inspired by how delicious it was, he wondered if there was a way to bring that concept to the Hill Country. “I did research and found that Texas is a great environment for raising water buffalo. They like it hot!” That would be just the tip of the research-iceberg for Giglio. Serendipitously, he found two partners with their own expertise, and they forged ahead with what Giglio would now certainly deem a crazy idea, but one he’s very excited about.
FALL 2020 35
taste
ason Peeler’s family has been raising cattle in Texas since 1913, and when he met Giglio, Peeler happened to be caring for a herd of water buffalo. He was thrilled with Giglio ’s idea — he’d been staring at this herd for four years, wishing he could do something productive with them. Giglio arranged to buy the nearly 200 water buffalo, who now live on Peeler’s Floresville’s ranch and Giglio’s Fredericksburg property. Peeler’s wife Marianna introduced Giglio to Fiore Tedesco, owner and executive chef of Italian-inspired L’Oca d’Oro in Austin, where Giglio tasted the best cow’s milk mozzarella he’s had in America. “This guy knows what he’s doing,” Giglio said. Fiore and Giglio returned to Italy in 2019 to spend a week in creameries (or caseificio), studying and practicing every step of the process of making water buffalo mozzarella and burrata. “It was awesome,” said Giglio. “We were covered in hot water, learning exactly how to stretch and manipulate the curd and make it into the final product.” In Italy, the designation of Mozzarella di Bufala Campana is similar to that of Champagne in France. It has to come from certain select regions. “In the U.S., we don’t have that rich history with water buffalo,” explained Giglio. “They’ve been in Italy for about 1,000 years, and we’ve had them about 40, so we’re playing catchup on rearing them and doing something with their milk.” The learning process has been intense. “I look back now, thinking over the past few years of every kind of trial and tribulation we’ve gone through and think had I known all this back then, there’s no way I would have done it. Fortunately, I didn’t know what I was getting into, so I just took it all in stride.” Making mozzarella — from milking the water buffalo in the morning, to having a fresh product ready to eat — takes only five hours. But it’s an art form. “Consistency really is the hardest thing. You don’t want it to be too chewy. It needs to be creamy, soft and supple, and to make that, it’s all by touch. Fiore’s got a gift with his hands, and anything culinary. He has a way of working with food and making it perfect.” At the Blanco storefront and creamery, visitors will be able to watch the cheese-making process, in the tradition of authentic Italian creameries. “I’ve tried to emulate Italy the best I could with all of it,” said Giglio. “There, you always get to watch people making the cheese, and it’s part of the experience.”
A portion of the water buffalo herd at the Floresville ranch. 36
Rock&Vine
taste
IF YOU LET NATURE WORK ITS MAGIC, WITHOUT INTERFERING, IT’S AWESOME WHAT CAN HAPPEN. - Phil Giglio FALL 2020 37
he dairy part of the operation is on Peeler’s ranch, where the herd currently resides. But at any given time, Giglio takes about twenty heifers onto his property in Fredericksburg, where it’s his job to get them accustomed to people and handling before sending them back to the dairy for breeding and milking. While actually milking the animals is messy — and not exactly fun — Giglio loves being around them. He still practices law from his home office, so time with them provides him a refreshing balance after a long day of work. “I figured out the best way to get them to come to me is to sit on their hay, and I just wait. It’s a war of attrition: who’s got more time to kill. Ultimately, they get hungry, and I just sit there and pet them. It’s really fun to watch big animals that could totally trample me get to be friendly enough to be close to me and to watch them change over a short period of time.” The way the water buffalo are raised is hugely important to Giglio for many reasons. Milk from grass-fed animals typically has the most flavor. And when you eat mozzarella, you’re really tasting the milk; nothing else is added. “Our water buffalo are out on pastures grazing 365 days a year. That adds an earthy taste to the milk.”
38
Rock&Vine
A water buffalo cow and calves of the Floresville ranch. Giglio feeding a water buffalo trained at the Fredericksburg ranch.
taste
ithout preconceived notions or a background in farming, Giglio’s done a lot of reading and thinking through the principles that guide the Orobianco operation. In addition to honoring the Italian heritage, when it comes to animal husbandry, he works to foster a symbiotic environment driven, first and foremost, by the water buffalo. “I want to utilize every liability—anything discarded in one process — and turn it into an asset for something else,” Giglio said. “We’re not wasting anything.” In that spirit, they hope to serve cured meat from the male water buffalo, showcasing a product not wellknown in this country, at the storefront (along with the cheese and gelato). “We also use the skim milk, often wasted after the separation process, to feed my pigs. It’s highly nutritious for them, and they lap it up.” And that in turn makes for tasty pork. After adding pigs — which attract a lot of flies — to the farm for this reason, Giglio learned that ducks are a great natural pesticide, so now he has a couple hundred ducks. And the sheep attract a parasite that is harmless to them but would be problematic for the cattle. “If you let nature work its magic, without interfering, it’s awesome what can happen.” Finally, it’s essential to Giglio that all of his animals not only have a purpose but a good life. “The water buffalo are living the lives they were designed to live. They’re out in the pasture, not in confinement, under the hot Texas sun, getting in water. They roam and eat grass, come in for milking and are back out on pasture.” Giglio’s gone from knowing little about agriculture to running a thriving farm and bringing unique products to the Hill Country. He’s thrown himself into Orobianco with everything he has. And his patience and passion — along with his trusted partners — have brought it all to fruition. By early fall, the creamery will be open for mozzarella, burrata, ricotta, and gelato at the shop, and visitors will be able to experience a little bit of Italy, Texas-style, here in Blanco. &
OROBIANCO DAIRY & CREAMERY 503 Main Street Blanco, TX 78606 orobiancomilk.com
RV
FALL 2020 39
V I N O CA D R E AN ALLIANCE OF WINE SPECIALISTS
Originally founded in Saint Helena, CA, Vinocadre now kicks vineyard dirt in Texas Hill Country. Comprised of leading professionals promoting food and wine education, Vinocadre offers an innovating platform by taking the artisan winery experience to your office, vacation retreat or home.
Bridget's Basket 1551 HWY 39, Hunt, TX
The Gardens - The Restaurant The Market - The Vineyard
Elevate Your Private Wine
Tasting Experience 707.696.0592
V I N O CA D R E 714 Shumard Lane AN ALLIANCE OF Fredericksburg, TX
Rock&Vine
The Market (830) 238-3737 Weds: 8-6 Thurs: 8-6 Fri + Sat: 8-6 Sundays: 10-3
1227 Pope Street Saint Helena, CA
WINE SPECIALISTS
vinocadre.com
40
The Restaurant (830) 238-3738 Weds:11-3 Thurs: 11-3 Fri + Sat: 11-8 Sundays: 10-3
www.bridgetsbasket.com
wine tasting Private & Virtual Cooking Classes
Photo Cedit: Jason Risner Photography Bring in this coupon to Das Peach Haus or Fischer & Wieser on Main in Fredericksburg, Texas and recieve 1 of any Fischer & Wieser dips with a purchase of any Fischer & Wieser product of equal or greater value.
BUY ONE GET ONE
for more information visit us at
das peach haus
1406 south US HWY 87 Rock & Wine
12/31/20
FALL 2020 41
Best Brunch in town!
!
ocal l t i g Keepin
COMING FALL 2020
@GraniteHouseLounge
BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY BEER • WINE • MIMOSAS FULL BAR
902 South Adams Fredericksburg, Texas 830.997.5904
Open Daily 8am-2pm Closed Wednesday
granitehouselounge.com 504 Granite Avenue • Fredericksburg, Texas 42
Rock&Vine
sunsetgrillfbgtx.com
HOURS Wednesday - Saturday 7:30am - 3pm Sunday 10am - 2pm Closed Monday + Tuesdays
607 South Washington Street ▮ Fredericksburg, Texas 78624 ▮ emmaolliefbg.com
FALL 2020 43
“You can’t forget memories.”
-Hondo Crouch
FREDERICKSBURG, TEXAS
312 W. Main • 997-1633 www.HondosOnMain.com 44
Rock&Vine
taste
BADU 1891 CHEF CHANDLER MELIA CULTIVATES AN EXPERIENCE AT HIS LLANO RESTAURANT THAT GOES BEYOND FOOD By ASHLEY BROWN
Photos by CHARLES REAGAN HACKLEMAN
n executive chef by the age of 23, Austin native Chandler Melia is now pouring his love of food, Texas, hunting, and creating memorable dining experiences into his restaurant Badu 1891 in Llano. Melia always enjoyed cooking for family and friends, so it was fitting that at age 15 he got a job as a busboy at Iguana Grill on Lake Travis. When he became a line cook, he immediately loved the energy and fast-paced environment of the kitchen and knew it’s what he wanted to do. He graduated high school a year early and went straight into Le Cordon Bleu Texas Culinary Academy while working at The Hills of Lakeway country club. He became the sous chef within a year and then executive chef of their sister club, Flint Rock Falls. During that time, Melia’s culinary world was rocked when he discovered the upscale Lakeway restaurant, Hudson’s on the Bend. “They were doing groundbreaking stuff,” he said. The attention to detail and creativity he observed and tasted sparked in him a drive to excel in the fine dining industry.
FALL 2020 45
taste
BADU 1891 601 Bessemer Ave • Llano, TX • (325) 247-1891 • badu1891.com
After ten years at the country club, Melia opened Aqua Brew in San Marcos. “That was one of my proudest accomplishments — designing, hiring, and executing the entire operation…and quickly changing the town’s perception of brewery food.” He also did private jet catering, serving business executives and celebrities like Beyonce and JayZ, Lady Gaga, and Chance the Rapper. Although stressful, the job left him with unforgettable stories, like receiving a personal letter of gratitude from Michelle Obama for setting her up with the best Texas barbeque (from Black’s) she and her husband had ever tasted. Melia never expected to leave Austin, but after consulting for the opening of a restaurant in Llano, he was asked to become part-owner and executive chef of Badu 1891, named for the professor who built what was the local bank in 1891, when Llano was expected to be the next boom town. The building’s history is just part of the complete dining experience.
46
Rock&Vine
That experience begins when guests enter through the large courtyard and choose what vibe they want: the romantic dining room, lively indoor bar, or patio where they can enjoy the music stage, yard games, fireplace and cozy blankets when it’s chilly out. Manager and beverage director Valerie Kernes loves their Airstream converted into a bar, where they serve up craft cocktails like the Watson Smoke Show, a smoked Old Fashioned named after the original architect of the building. “We want to make people feel special and welcome here,” said Valerie. “It’s fine dining, but there’s no dress code. You can come right in from the river or hunting and grab a steak and nice bottle of wine.” The Badu menu, highlighting locally sourced ingredients, is eclectic but centered on wild game like elk, duck, and venison. Llano is the deer hunting capital of Texas, so Melia loves to showcase some of the very foods people come to Texas to hunt. “We use a local company called Broken Arrow Ranch,” he explained. “Whether it’s South Texas antelope, axis deer, or wild boar, they’re hunted on the open ranch using suppressed rifles from a long distance to eliminate fear or suffering. The ranch field-dresses the animals right there within minutes of the kill, resulting in tender, high-quality meat.” Melia enjoys putting a Texas twist on classics — like jalapeño crab spring rolls and charred edamame with Fresno peppers — and reinventing dishes without pretension. “It’s cool to have queso on your menu but still offer a smoked prime rib.” He’s really excited about a new fall menu item: venison meatballs with pappardelle pasta, burrata and cojita cheese, and basil from their organic garden. “Our drinks and food are so unique,” said co-manager Arianna Brown. “The building is beautiful, there’s artwork everywhere. All around, we’re hitting all five senses. Dining here truly is a full experience.” R&V
FALL 2020 47
Where tasteful
creations begin FULL SERVICE CATERING WEDDINGS AND REHEARSAL DINNERS CORPORATE EVENTS ON & OFF SITE SERVICES HOLIDAY PACKAGES
305 South Lincoln • Fredericksburg, TX info@woernerwarehouse.com • 830-997-2246
Der Lindenbaum the linden tree
German Restaurant Authentic German Cuisine
you will be glad you came
Where Good Times are Always On the Menu!
For a truly unique dining experience during your visit to Fredericksburg and its German-enriched attractions ... Stop by our Main Street Restaurant, where you can find American, German and other foreign-flavored dishes to appease even the most hungry of appetites. And, remember, good times and fellowship are always on our menu! Our skillful chefs take their precious time in preparing dishes (their “masterpieces”) that you can write home about and our service staff offers their visitors — both local and out-of-town — a refreshing friendliness as they care for all their needs. Whether in town for just a day or making Fredericksburg your home, Der Lindenbaum is ‘a must’. Our comfortable, yet elegant dining atmosphere, welcomes all tastes with open friendship.
authentic - schnitzel burgers - sandwiches home baked breads - german specialties - desserts mouth-watering After shopping, come relax in our quiet, cozy atmosphere with hot spiced wine, European pastries and more. Come join us for delicious international dishes in our comfortable dining room. We’ll be waiting for you (close to the Nimitz Museum.)
Open 7 Days a Week, 11am to 10pm Tuesdays, 11am - 4pm only Now accepting all major credit cards Travelers Checks, Personal Checks
312 E. Main, Fredericksburg, Tx. - 830-997-9126 48
Rock&Vine
Life is Sweet, Kelani makes it Better!
• Acai Bowls • Botanical Blends • Smoothies • Shakes • Floats • Frozen Yogurt • Gelato • Pressed Juice • Crépes • Waffles • Coffees, Salads & Sandwiches 2 locations to serve you 463 S. MAIN STREET, BOERNE
*301 EAST MAIN STREET, FREDERICKSBURG *serves lunch at this location only
Tutu ’
i
e Fr
xa s
arden at K G s
de Te rick sburg,
• Home decor • Paper goods • Jewelry • Garden tools • Planters & Pots • Garden decor • Art • Apparel
301 EAST MAIN STREET, FREDERICKSBURG • TUTUS.GARDEN FALL 2020 49
50
Rock&Vine
ROAM RANCH REVISITED
taste By KEN ESTEN COOKE & KIMBERLY GILES Photos by ROBERT G. GOMEZ
From left to right: Chandler Melia of Badu 1891, Bridget Sym of Bridgets Basket, Cody of Roam Ranch, Taylor Collins of Roam Ranch, Julia and new baby of Roam Ranch, Ashley Odom of Feast & Merriment, Phil Giglio of Orobianco
ne focus of Rock & Vine is conservation and taking care of this region, which we call our slice of heaven. Our staff seeks out and shares sustainable land management practices. This edition, we partnered with Texas Hill Country chefs in an effort to learn how bounty from area farmers and ranchers meets our table each season.
Bridget Sym of Bridget’s Basket in Hunt Bridget is a remarkable grower herself and brings farm-fresh produce seasonally to her table breakfast, lunch and dinner. She is an avid proponent of freshly harvested proteins and indigenous meats that add a complex, creative localism to her menu offerings.
Phil Giglio of Orobianco Texan Dairy & Creamery in Blanco Our teachers were Taylor Collins and Katie Forrest of Roam Ranch. They agreed to host us and some of our influential chef friends, movers and shakers, including:
Phil came to investigate another type of buffalo, as he has water buffalo on his ranch and has begun his own creamery, serving gelato and fresh waterpacked Mozzarella.
Ashley Odom of Feast & Merriment in Stonewall
Chandler Melia of Badu 1891 in Llano
Ashley hosts farm-to-table events for private occasions and reserved winery and dinner excursions at her expansive site, adjacent to Narrow Path vineyards
Chandler is a chef that prides himself on sustainably harvested wild game meats, as well as having an overall interest in regenerative land management. His menu is seasonal and he likes to complement those offerings on his menu.
FALL 2020 51
THE ROAM RANCH TEAM IS AN INVALUABLE RESOURCE FOR OTHER TEXAS RANCHERS LOOKING TO INCORPORATE GOOD PRACTICES IN THEIR ENTERPRISES. - Phil Giglio
Inspired by a mission to maintain the relationship between healthy lands and healthy meats, the couple shares their passion with the public, other producers and ranch owners, and restaurateurs interested in serving up healthy harvests. Collins and Forrest also always strive to learn more from sources ranging from locals to international operators. The two research the past, especially studying bison migration from the Permian Basin. They also constantly check soil temperatures and studies to see how chemistry affects grass and ground cover growth, and deciding what rebuilds the nitrogen back into the soil most effectively. “The Roam Ranch team is an invaluable resource for other Texas ranchers looking to incorporate good practices in their enterprises,” said Giglio, Oribanco chef. “Their success is a testament to the notion that livestock are a necessary component of a sustainable and regenerative agricultural enterprise.” For animals, the pair raise free-range chickens and turkeys, and have added heritage pigs to study their land-clearing capabilities where weeds are concerned.
52
Rock&Vine
FALL 2020 53
Sym liked what she saw as it relates to the producer to consumer simplified model. “My biggest takeaway from that trip would be the importance of educating our communities and consumers,” Sym said. “Making the connection between small producers -- from farmers, to ranchers, to chefs -- and the health of our planet, while allowing consumers to invest in the production of their food, is one of the most important aspects of a sustainable future.” But the couple is best known for their love of bison, those majestic animals that used to roam freely and en masse on the U.S. plains. The American Buffalo was not seen much in this region for the past century or more, and they are determined to bring them back and let them flourish on their 450 acres. “Along with native grasses these buffalo used to feed with, we are wondering and rethinking what more is missing from our past that is needed now,” Collins said, citing modern ag practices that have stripped the land of much of its healthy and natural capacity. Buffalo are the keystone species to rebuilding their land, Collins said. In just the short time since Rock & Vine last covered Roam Ranch (spring issue, 2019), the couple has registered new bird wildlife (they keep a count on their website). The buffalo’s hooves are unique for stirring up the land, effectively aerating and “tilling” it for native grasses to re-emerge. Collins also studies and promotes the benefits of other types of animals, as well as rotational crop growing and ground cover planting. Going back to the basics is their recipe for treating the land well and allowing the flourishing of native flora and fauna. Odom said Roam’s owners meet her standards which keep a larger picture in mind. “Visiting Roam and learning about how they are integrating regenerative techniques to over-grazed pastures in the heart of Texas is inspiring. This gets at the soul of what is needed to to continue to heal our planet of harmful farming techniques of the past. This modern approach ensures that the future of our food can survive and thrive, and will symbiotically provide health benefits to us and the animals, from soil to table and everything in between.” R&V
54
Rock&Vine
TOURS, CLASSES Roam Ranch also hosts events and gatherings, from public tours, to a Regenerative Ag Bootcamp, to guided hunts, to a children’s nature art workshop. For more information, visit roamranch.com. ONLINE RoamRanch.com OrobiancoMilk.com FeastandMerriment.net Badu1891.com BridgetsBasket.com
FALL 2020 55
56
Rock&Vine
HAUS We invite you into our HAUS section, where we will explore our area architects, home styles, and elegant dĂŠcor.
Top photo provided by Mustard Design Bottom photo provided by Reclaimed Space
FALL 2020 57
402 East Main 830-997-6750
Corner of Washington and Main Sts. (across from Nimitz Museum)
Your home comes together here, with distinctive furnishings, elegant accessories and exquisite design, uniquely inspired for extraordinary living.
• FURNITURE • ART • LIGHTING • ACCESSORIES • DESIGN SERVICES
58
Rock&Vine
It’s time to take the chill off.
Come in today for our beautiful gas logs, electric fireplaces, and unique gifts just in time for Fall!
Gas logs | Firepits | Outdoor heaters | Electric fireplaces | and more 1000 Sidney Baker St. S. | Kerrville | 830.890.5532 2000 US Hwy 281 S. | Marble Falls | 830.798.9761 outbackpatiofurnishings.com
mustard
D E Sa r Ic hG N i t e c t s
mustarddesign.net
fredericksburg
830.997.7024
FALL 2020 59
haus
60
Rock&Vine
haus
NJ E M THE JOURNEY
Nnene Mbonu by KIMBERLY GILES Photos by OLD WILLOW PHOTGRAPHY
jem Haus is a creatively designed and distinctively modern guest house situated in one of the oldest and quaintest parts of Texas Hill Country. Nnene Mbonu is the force behind this home and wants to share her Nigerian concept of NJEM with others in the Hill Country. Njem in Nigerian is a complex word that translates only to one meaning in English – the journey. According to Nnene, the Nigerian meaning is multi-faceted and incorporates many layers. For instance, when asked, “How was your journey?” in reference to a neighboring town, the market, or to see a relative, it would be inclusive of all the senses when recounting your journey to another. “Njem is an integrated and interchangeable word,” Nnene said. “Njem is the journey. It’s like peeling off the layers of the journey and reflecting on all the pictures and memories you joined in on experiencing in relation to yourself, friends, family. It’s something totally different than just travel”. Nnene has always been an international travel seeker, photographer and explorer. However, after having two children, she realized she wanted to see more of what was an easier getaway in Texas rather than abroad.
FALL 2020 61
haus
WHEN YOU HAVE A HOME BASE THERE IS SOMETHING PSYCHOLOGICAL THERE THAT ALLOWS YOU TO LET DOWN YOUR GUARD AND FEEL SAFE TO RELAX WHILE IN A HOME. - Nnene Mbonu
62
Rock&Vine
haus
“I began to pack up my children and their cousins and just explore Texas. I loved staying in small towns and loved having the B&B experience for my family,” Nenne said. She began researching and settled on Fredericksburg. “I loved the small-town feeling, the parades on the Fourth of July, the ease to travel and to see things with the children,” she said. Combining the travel focus on Texas Hill Country versus abroad, Nnene decided in 2019 to make her Njem a reality that she could share with others here in Fredericksburg. She acquired a simple and traditional Fredericksburg home and was determined to put her own stamp on its renovation process with the intention of having a permanent vacation home for her own family and for others to enjoy as well. Partnering with Christina Atkinson of Home Simple Goods Shop and Design, the two created a home that is global and modern in vision, and has everything for a family or friend getaway that does not require you to leave if your journey is to be spent in one location. “I wanted guests to have the ability to explore but also have a comfort zone that all could gather in and create memories. Njem is large enough to spend indoor and outdoor time, as well as cook a meal together after a day out at wineries, hiking or exploring.
FALL 2020 63
haus
WE WANTED A PERSONALITY IN THIS VACATION PROPERTY. ONCE NNENE BROUGHT IN HER PHOTOGRAPHY PIECES, HER AFRICAN MASKS, BOWLS AND FIGURES IT REALLY CAME TOGETHER. - Christina Atkinson
“When you have a home base there is something psychological there that allows you to let down your guard and feel safe to relax while in a home,” she said. Nnene commissioned Atkinson to decorate her vacation home. “We wanted a personality in this vacation property. Once Nnene brought in her photography pieces, her African masks, bowls and figures it really came together,” Atkinson said. “We had discussed her home looking like an artist studio in New York, a place that transported you but was simple, clean and modern.” Along with the internal renovations, Nnene is perhaps most excited about the pool and outdoor living installation. “I was always looking for a place to stay in town that had a pool for our family and it was really difficult to find,” she said. While travel plans and journeys abroad are on hold for many of us, at least one will be able to comfortably say they have had a journey while staying at Njem Haus.
64
Rock&Vine
haus
FALL 2020 65
66
Rock&Vine
FALL 2020 67
SU S U M E YE R
South Fork of the Guadalupe River Oil on Canvas 30” x 50”
KERRVILLE, TX
235 EARL GARRETT STREET 830.315.3150
TELLURIDE, CO
209 EAST COLORADO AVENUE 970.728.3777
SLATEGRAYGALLERY.COM
68
Rock&Vine
109 N ADAMS ST | FREDERICKSBURG, TX | 830.307.9798 @SIMPLEGOODSSHOP | NOW ACCEPTING DESIGN CONSULTS
simplegoodsshop.com
HOME SIMPLE GOODS + DESIGN
FALL 2020 69
LINENS-N-MORE SINCE 1983
Extra Soft Soft
Made In The USA
Medium Firm Extra Firm 2X Firm 70
Rock&Vine
www.yourbedpillow.com
302 EAST MAIN STREET | FREDERICKSBURG, TX WWW.LINENSNMORE.COM | 830-990-1212
FALL 2020 71
Veteran owned business providing discounts for veterans and first responders Metal & shingle roof installations for residential and commercial properties
830-992-8992 www.battalionroofing.com
341 W WATER ST 5 KERRVILLE 830.896.7733 TEXASFINIAL.COM
72
Rock&Vine
NEW
SHOWROOM coming soon!
Suppliers for Replacement and New Construction www.hillcountrywindowsanddoors.com • 517 S. Adams • 830-997-5302
FALL 2020 73
74
Rock&Vine
2 blocks from 401 S. Lincoln St Main Street above Fredericksburg, TX 78624 KingWood Studio 830.992.9681 www.kingwoodsuites.com FALL 2020 75
me Improvement - Made Easy
39 th Anniversary
reatments|Area Rugs|Wood Flooring|Tile Floors|Tile|Back Splash
help with your am Home!
x.com | 1324 S. State Hwy. 16 burg | 830.997.8413
Let us help make your house a home...
Contact the professionals at Inside Story and make your home more beautiful
Buffy Frantzen
- WOOD FLOORING - PORCELAIN TILE - MOSAICS - BENJAMIN MOORE PAINT - AREA RUGS - WALLPAPER
April Staudt
- LUXURY VINYL PLANKS/TILES
1324 S. State Hwy 16 • Fredericksburg, Texas 830.997.8413
theinsidestorytx.com 76
Rock&Vine
Andrea Behrends
Working with
CHARACTER
haus
by KIMBERLY GILES
odern homes can offer many advantages and conveniences. For instance, we can all be assured a modern home will incorporate energy efficient standards, perhaps have an open floor plan, larger kitchen and closets and better insulation throughout, along with the ease of general maintenance for modern cleaning standards. With this understood are we also asking where did the historic charm go for these improvements? Are we feeling a lack of aesthetic or romanticism in our new homes without the worn feeling of character that permeates historic homes?
Mirror framed with antique rolling pins; a curated collection of wood carved candle holders.
This is why we brought in our HAUS contributor Jennifer Eggleston to help us remedy these common dilemmas of practical (new home) versus feeling (historic vibes).
FALL 2020 77
Clockwise: Antique doors found for client in Round Top with Texas Finial hardware applied. Antique lead glass window added to extend light and view in kitchen; reclaimed wood used for shelving against stone walls. Salvaged interior doors installed with original paint. 78
Rock&Vine
haus
IN A TIME OF FEELING THE NEED TO TEAR DOWN AND START OVER AND BUILD COMPLETELY NEW, I REALLY TRY TO INCORPORATE AND FOCUS ON AGE AND ANTIQUITY IN DESIGN ELEMENTS AND STRUCTURES. – Jennifer Eggleston
RV: WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE ELEMENTS OF THE PAST THAT YOU CAN INTRODUCE AND INCORPORATE INTO A MODERN OR UPDATED HOME BUILD? JE: I like to incorporate reclaimed wood, bead board, or shiplap as a ceiling, feature wall, or even kitchen island front treatment. It adds an element of warmth, age, and originality. Old beams also give integrity to a porch, ceiling, or mantle. Stone (original or aged in appearance) provides another dimension and texture for an interior design feature wall, backsplash, fireplace or floor. Also adding in lead glass windows or transoms. I am always a fan of adding in or utilizing old beautiful windows where possible. The reflective light is just gorgeous. With doors (both interior and exterior), if you can salvage or repurpose old doors, go for it. I always love discovering the multitude of paint layers and find those layers a bonus in design. Antique and vintage hardware for doors and cabinets are also one of my favorite new build projects. The trick is knowing your count and planning exactly what will be placed where to allow for a consistent flow.
RV: HOW DO HISTORICAL OR VINTAGE ELEMENTS TRANSFORM A MODERN, NEWLY BUILT HOME? JE: I have always been known for my love and skill in mixing design elements. When bringing in antiques, vintage, salvaged or historical items into a modern home (or remodeled home), your home becomes a well-traveled and sophisticated environment. So many homes have the “oh so furniture-showroom-staged” look that is lacking personal attention to detail. When adding in reclaimed materials, or a smaller antique accessory, your home becomes a more lived in, warm and welcoming environment. RV: DO CLIENTS OR BUILDERS REQUEST STATEMENT ANTIQUE PIECES FOR A REMODEL OR NEW BUILD, OR IS THIS SOMETHING YOU HAVE TO EDUCATE THEM ON? Yes and yes. But, it is often on me to educate a client or homeowner on why I want to incorporate age in design. Builders used to be a little shy to the concept of retrofitting old mantles, doors, windows and lighting. But with enough planning, now we can all understand the beauty of what I call “working with character.” R&V
FALL 2020 79
Di sco v er a l l t he good t h i n gs we h av e gathered for you r home a nd you r l i fe... 830.307.3032
www.gatheredandgood.com 401 Auguste, Fredericksburg (2 Blocks from Nimitz Museum)
O l d & N e w • Fa r m h o u s e • Vi n t a g e • H o m e D é c o r • G i f t s
Fabulous Fall Fashions for infants through tweens
Come visit Liebeskind in our new Main Street location! 80
Rock&Vine
RELAX IN OUR LITTLE SLICE OF
hill country heaven s hoppi ng i n h i s t or ic do w n t o w n | scen ic t rai l s & par k s | un ique places t o s t ay restaurants & wineries with patio seating | museums & historic sites
VisitFredericksburgTX.com
FALL 2020 81
• Cigar Shop and Smoking Lounge • Walk-In Humidor • Texas Craft Beers and Wines
We’re mobile too!
Mobile cigar lounge available for parties, weddings, and corporate events.
82
Rock&Vine
31560 Ranch Road 12 Suite 207 Dripping Springs, Texas 78620 512-921-8388 www.smokeyslounge.com
drinkery
SUDS of a HEARTBREAK Brewers want to follow coronavirus rules, but those keep changing
By LEE M. NICHOLS
t the beginning of this year, anyone who knows their suds would have told you: The Texas brewing industry was in a golden age. Our state government was finally embracing mom-and-pop beermakers around the state by removing regulatory hurdles that had hindered their growth. Just like the wine industry, tasting rooms around the state – especially in the tourism-oriented Hill Country – were popping up like wildflowers. Then, just like in so many other sectors of the economy, things came crashing down in March with the COVID-19 outbreak. The journey since then has been difficult. State officials scrambled to keep up with the virus, and brewers scrambled to keep up with the officials. Rules were enacted and then changed, business plans had to be modified, and everyone has struggled. The challenges differ from brewer to brewer. Some are powerhouses regularly seen on the store shelves and bar taps, while others are mom-and-pop operations mainly selling from their taproom. Some are brewpubs – restaurants that brew their own – and thus can claim to be more “restaurant” than “bar.” But none of them have it easy. “It almost destroyed our business,” said Seth Weatherly of 5 Stones Brewing, a small outfit near New Braunfels.
Weatherly said that although 5 Stones distributes to stores, that’s not where his biggest margins are. If a brewery of his size tries to make it through retail, “You’ll limp along. You won’t thrive, you can’t keep people employed. “The margin-rich dollars are in on-site [taproom] sales,” Weatherly said. But Governor Abbott identified bars as the hotspots for COVID-19 spread, and taprooms fell into the “bar” definition. The governor and Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission (TABC) still allowed to-go sales – one of those growthboosting changes made in recent years by the Legislature – but that hasn’t been enough, Weatherly said. “When things first shut down, people were very supportive and they bought beer to go,” Weatherly said. “But people get fatigued. As time moved along, the sales diminished.” The problem, brewers complained, was the definition of “bar” versus “restaurant.” If more than 51 percent of an establishment’s sales come from on-site alcohol consumption, it’s a bar – and that includes most taprooms. So apparently, add in food sales, and things are somehow safer?
FALL 2020 83
drinkery “Arbitrarily setting the line at 51 percent does not make good sense, and it’s not good practice in the industry,” said Brad Farbstein of Real Ale Brewing in Blanco. “It takes an entire class of retailers and puts them at a disadvantage. I can’t imagine that drinking a margarita at a Mexican restaurant is any safer than at a bar. I’m not sure food is a good delineating choice.” “If we’re only selling beer to go, then customers are going to go to restaurants,” said Anna Kilker of Guadalupe Brewing, also in New Braunfels. “It was an absolute bullet to us. Selling food does not stop the virus. Staying safe does. The governor did not do his homework. Everybody should have been given a mandate to stay safe and then forced to follow the rules.” But the brewers also give the governor and TABC credit for listening to their concerns. Just before this story was written, the 51 percent rule was tweaked – breweries that don’t have their own kitchens are now allowed to count the sales of a food truck onsite toward the percentages, even though they are separate businesses. Charles Vallonrat, executive director of the Texas Craft Brewers Guild, an advocacy organization for small brewers, said, “We think this is forward progress.” But it doesn’t fully fix the problem, he added.
said. “And to add insult to injury, a huge amount of inventory was staged that had to be destroyed for freshness issues,” he said, meaning the beer was ready to go out, but when the bars and restaurants were no longer there to buy it, “a lot of beer had to be dumped.”
“Ultimately, we’d like to see a definition change from a monetary one to a health and safety practices definition, and brewers that meet the requirements can stay open. That would give flexibility. That’s our primary request – a definition that does not carve out businesses to be closed is what we’re looking for.”
Her taproom normally could hold 70 people, but now it has just eight tables. Fortunately, Guadalupe also has a large outdoor biergarten.
Farbstein, a guild member, said, “We believe the state should issue a COVID permit. You’d have to perform good practices based on the latest information. If you get inspected and fail, you’d lose your permit.” So getting shut down by the government is now less of a threat, but getting shut down by lack of cash flow is still a danger. “It’s changed our business significantly,” said Real Ale’s Farbstein. Real Ale is strong at retail sales and thus less dependent on its tap room, but that doesn’t make them safe. They’re still doing well in stores, but “about 40 percent of our sales were kegs going to bars and restaurants.” With bars forced to close – as well as some restaurants simply going out of business – Real Ale was hit hard. “The margins we make on store sales is significantly less [than keg sales],” Farbstein 84
Rock&Vine
The more taproom-dependent breweries – smaller operations with less cash on hand – had to make significant investments in sanitation while taking in less guests because of social distancing. “We had to get lots of signs telling customers that facemasks are required and they need to stay six feet apart,” Guadalupe’s Kilker said. “And hand sanitizer. One gallon costs $80. And we rented some hand sanitizer stations. And I couldn’t get Clorox wipes. It’s hard to keep up with inventory. We’re making sure everything is constantly cleaned, and we had to hire more staff for it.” She added that she’s grateful to customers that help her out by following the rules. “Everyone is so compliant,” Kilker said. “A tiny handful want to buck the system and argue, but we have to do it to be compliant. If the TABC does a sting they can shut us down or revoke our license. The customers followed the rules and they’re awesome.”
5 Stones also benefits from a large outdoor area. They removed the few tables they had in their taproom and sent everything outside. “We require everyone to have masks, and we ask them to bring their own lawn chairs,” Weatherly said. “We have a park-like setting.” “Our guild is predicting we could lose 30 to 70 percent of our businesses,” Farbstein said of Texas’ craft beer industry. “These businesses offer good jobs and benefits and generate a lot of revenue for the state. I encourage people to go out and support local family-owned and independent brewers and distillers during these times. Buying directly from them definitely helps them out.”
For more information on what you can do to save Texas’ craft breweries, both financially and politically, go to craftpac.org/savetexasbreweries
T MAIN S T
R
E
IC
KS
BURG,
62
ED
R
OUR HISTORIC OFFICE
78
FR
4
T
23
1
EE
W
ES
TX
Lodging & Hospitality Walk with Us Enjoy our wines and views at our Winery & Vineyard.
In addition to helping you find your ideal accommodation, we offer a wide selection of concierge services including grocery delivery, spa bookings, fresh flowers and Fredericksburg Gift Baskets. BOOK YOUR STAY. GO ONLINE TO FBGLODGING.COM, CALL 1 (866) 427-8374 OR VISIT OUR OFFICE ON MAIN STREET.
LOCATED AT
6331 South Ranch Rd 1623 in Stonewall (830) 644-2144
FALL 2020 85
stompin’ grounds
WINE TASTING DURING COVID
By LORELEI HELMKE
ockdowns and mandated closings due to the coronavirus has changed the way we live our lives and many wineries have been forced to close their doors to visitors. Because most wineries do not offer food selections, meeting the 51% of sales rules imposed by Governor Abbot has proven difficult.
Photos provided by KUHLMAN CELLARS
Kuhlman Cellars however is the exception. Kuhlman has always focused on the interaction of food and wine. Far beyond red wine with red meat, Kuhlman has always offered visitors a journey through the senses and all flavors of the palate. By expanding food options and creating self-pour wine flight experiences, Kuhlman Cellars has welcomed back their fans with open arms from six feet away and with, of course, face-covering masks. I recently ventured into this new way of tasting and tried our one of the wine flights with bites prepared by the in-house chef and pairings by sommelier Brandi Pratt.
86
Rock&Vine
stompin’ grounds
The Mixed Wine Flight 2018 Estate White Texas Hill Country Marsannne and Roussanne Grown on property this medium-light bodied white offers delightful aromas of pineapple and honeydew melon. Slatey mineral notes and bright acidity keeps the wine racy. Paired with Kuhlman’s own Herbed Almonds that bring out the salt and structure of the Estate White.
2018 Calcaria Texas High Plains Trebbiano, Roussanne and Viognier Charming, light bodied white blend with aromas of apricot and lime zest. The bright acidity and crisp finish that lingers for a bit make this a great wine to sip alone or pair with slightly spicy foods.
of leather provide backbone to the fruits. The silky tannins and a medium long finish create a well-rounded red wine. The flavors are enhanced by the rosemary on the herbed almonds. Alluvé also pairs beautifully with the Gouda-Salami skewers presented on the plate.
2017 Marl Texas High Plains Petite Sirah and Merlot A rich ruby color in the glass, ripe supple red cherries and the essence of wild blackberries, summer sweet Poteet strawberries and black pepper. The velvety tannin structure creates a sensuous mouthfeel that shows through the long finish. This dynamic red was paired with both the GoudaSalami skewer and a gluten free chocolate cheesecake from Mozart’s Coffee Roasters and Bakery in Austin.
Paired with a tropical Kim Chi, the salty sweet and red pepper flavors mesh beautifully together.
2019 Estate Rosé Texas Hill Country Carignan, Mourvèdre and Roussanne To sip a wine in the fields where its grapes were grown is one of life’s most wonderful experiences. The salmon-pink color elevates the senses as bouquets of strawberries and cranberries enchant the nose. A burst of acidity awakens the tip of the tongue. A lively Rosé tht was paired with mango roasted chicken salad. The fruit flavors were enhanced by the pairing and the acidity in the wine clarified the creaminess of the chicken salad, bolstering my belief that Rosés are meant to be enjoyed with lunch.
2016 Alluvé Texas High Plains Malbec, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah Fresh raspberries, Rainer Cherries and red plums grace the first approach. Tobacco leaf and little hints
There are other wineries offering food and flights. It is best to plan your day and make reservations in advance. Here are a few that are open: Grape Creek Vineyards Pedernales Cellars Hilmy Winery 4.0 Cellars In Cedar Park, Bent Oak winery is open for those who make reservations. Along Highway 16 South near Fredericksburg, Augusta Vin is taking reservations. In Dripping Springs, contact Bell Springs Winery for information. One winery not requiring reservations is Singing Water in Comfort. They do require a food order with wine and suggest picking up a gift from their shop so they may stay in compliance with the less than 51% alcohol sales requirement. Hopefully COVID will be under control soon and we can return to normal. Until then, raise your glasses and mask up..
FALL 2020 87
EXPLORE THE MAGIC
6120 EAST US 290 | FREDERICKSBURG, TX | WWW.ALTSTADTBEER.COM 88
Rock&Vine
FALL 2020 89
drinkery
Artisan at Work Winemaker Benjamin Calais By ANDRE BOADA
the world of wine, I often see the term “artisan” given within a branding element. It can be somewhat misleading, much like the “Reserve” classification, since it’s a general term for many winery marketing managers. Being a sommelier, a term used for a trained specialist, I decided to go on a Hill Country quest and find a true, unbridled, artisan winemaker producing 100-percent, proudly made Texas wines. I’ve always considered artisan to entail a hands-on, nonmechanized, fine-ingredient approach, much like a local artisan cheese or bread producer. In the wine world, unless skilled in the profession, artisan quality may not shine through in the final product. By happenstance, I discovered Benjamin Calais, a French-born transplant, who started winemaking using Texas High Plains grapes via a Dallas operation and who is now based just a few miles from Fredericksburg in the tiny township of Hye. I have met Calais on several occasions over my year’s tenure of learning the Texas winemaking landscape. Each time, his passion for wine, mixed with a consistent model of improving his craft, help fellow Texas wineries seem to beacon like lighthouse for the lost at sea. Could this be of true character and stand the test of time? First, I wondered about his background and personality. What does he like to do when he’s not making wine? His candor was simple and pure like his wines. “I keep experimenting, take risks, then let my wine explore even more flavor, aroma and true vineyard-to-glass essence,” he said. “People often classify me as a mad scientist for the Texas High Plains AVA (American Viticulture Area).”
90
Rock&Vine
Photos by HILL COUNTRY LIGHT PHOTGRAPHY
His latest experimentation is crafting red wine, whole berry in custom-made, 60-gallon oak barrels. Instead of a pump-over or punch-down process to gain color, he uses a hand-powered rotator vinification technique, with slow, natural yeast fermentation and dry ice. This allows partial carbonic ferment mixed with an in-the-barrel, skin-to-juice soak process. “My production team hates the extra hands-on roller work, but by turning the barrels with unclustered berries, a high extraction note of flavor and color prevails. I’m now working to patent this process and build oak barrels through my network of French coopers.” Once again, I was astonished by creating an outside-the-box principle and how Calais pushes the limits of a high-risk, high-reward wine-making proposition. To compound this rationale even further, he’s also wellrespected by his artisan winery peers, and his wines are much sought-after by wine collectors across the U.S. Even without a wine club, he sells out quickly, a true testament to crafting wines at an elite level. Doug Lewis, formerly with Pedernales Cellars and now co-owner of Lewis Wines, has a ten-year history sharing grapes with Calais from Newsom Vineyards. “Benjamin’s approach – absolute hands-on, non-mechanical mindset from vineyard to winemaking – creates terroirdriven wines unlike any other Texas winery,” Lewis said. “His attention to artisan detail brings out a magical essence of vineyard purity. Simply put, it’s Ben’s way of guaranteeing authentic flavor from a single vineyard source.”
drinkery
I KEEP EXPERIMENTING, TAKE RISKS, THEN LET MY WINE EXPLORE EVEN MORE FLAVOR, AROMA AND TRUE VINEYARDTO-GLASS ESSENCE. - Benjamin Calais
Artisan bread creates an artful parity during Calais cellar tours & tastings. Benjamin Calais hands on approach extends to hosting private cellar tastings and dinners.
Let’s back up and dive deeper to his artisan style with two wines on the release horizon. All his wines are small batch, using consistent, low-yielding vineyard sites to maximize intensity. Two sites of note: Narra and Newsom vineyards, both located in the Texas High Plains appellation. When visiting the winery, I saw Tempranillo, (red) grapes cold-soaking to extract fresh vibrant personality in half-ton picking bins. All were picked meticulously by hand and reflected no uneven berries or unwanted stems. His barrel regime is 100 percent tight-grained (no toasted heads) and medium toast using the upmost, finest coopers in central France. The fermentation and aging practice is spoton for artisan, but he even extends aging the red wine longer than most, allowing 32 to 46 months of barrel time, providing perfect balance mixed with elegant tannins to the forefront.
FALL 2020 91
Pouring his uniquely crafted Sauvignon Blanc, one of his Bordeaux style wines offered at Calais.
THE WINES Currently, his artisan hands are crafting two labels, both boutique in nature with Calais winery focused on Bordeaux varietals and The French Connection, Rhone-styled wines. His artistry is like flipping a coin, both wineries have merit but decided to call “heads” by selecting two new releases from the Calais winery portfolio.
NEW RELEASES 2019 CALAIS, BARREL FERMENTED, SAUVIGNON BLANC, Texas High Plains AVA Typically Sauvignon Blanc never sees oak aging although Benjamin’s vision looks beyond the norm by creating an extra oak texture to this wine. Not only is his source, Narra Vineyards, a unique Sauvignon Blanc vineyard site, he keeps the acidity intact by rejecting a malolactic procedure, a secondary bacterial fermentation that changes high malic acid to a creamy texture. Instead, he uses oak to provide polished, rich texture and strives for slow, native yeast for intense aromas. The result, an age worthy white wine offering an enticing lemon-curd profile with lively acidity. Retail: $36
2017 CALAIS, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, Texas High Plains AVA When I arrived in Texas, I often heard that you can’t grow and produce high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon in Texas. I say otherwise with this exceptional new release. Sourced from a Newsom single-vineyard and carefully picked at full ripeness under Ben’s savvy eye, this wine marks the power of greatness. Dense in character and crafted to showcase a perfect balance of fruit, tannins and alcohol, married with 32 months of divine, 100-percent new French oak. 150 cases produced. Retail: $73 With my local artisan quest completed, I reflect on Ben’s persona and his influence on Texas wines. Being artisan is, of course, about art and craft but it also respects history and nature. Calais is shining bright at the helm. This quote came to mind as I reflected on his work. “There is constantly somebody who’s making something, whether it’s music or art or wine, that pushes the edges of what was previously thought possible. And in doing that, if the person makes something that’s fundamentally good, it drives the parameters of what is good and makes them a little bit wider.” – Len Rothenberg, owner, Federal Wine & Spirits in Boston A toast to Calais for a wider vision that builds the future of Texas wine and all the artisan passion they represent. & RV
92
Rock&Vine
Just 4.2 miles from downtown Fredericksburg, the estate features 40 acres of vineyards and nearly a dozen boutique Texas brands including the wines of 1851 Vineyards. The historic farm, settled in 1851, is the location of the first Pioneer Flour Mill, founded by Carl Hilmar Guenther.
WWW.SLATEMILLWINECOLLECTIVE.COM Tasting Room Hours Thursday-Saturday: 11-6pm Sunday-Monday: 12-5pm Cellar tours are available by appointment:
tours@slatemillwinecollective.com For more information about our tasting room:
info@slatemillwinecollective.com
4222 S STATE HWY 16, FREDERICKSBURG, TX 78624 • 830.391.8510 FALL 2020 93
Revel in the Hill Country.
The Villas are a private, tranquil escape in the heart of La Cantera Resort & Spa. Escape the everyday and experience a unique connection with the natural elements of the Texas Hill Country. The Villas offer an unparalleled travel experience that is filled with neverending discoveries. 94
Rock&Vine
Visit thevillasatlacantera.com to book now | 210.558.6500
drinkery
REAL SPIRITS DISTILLING
By ASHLEY BROWN eal Ale Brewing Company, the 58th-largest craft brewer in America despite only selling in Texas, opened in 1996 in the basement of an antique store on the Blanco Square. They now make over 50,000 barrels of beer annually out of their sprawling brewery and pub a mile north of the square. And they’ve expanded their passion for unique, high-quality libations into Real Spirits. Owner Brad Farbstein grew up in the beer industry, making home brews in college at UT in Austin and working for Saint Arnold and
Microbility, a craft beer distributing company. “I was excited about that job because they represented Real Ale, and their Full Moon Pale Rye was one of my favorite beers, so the fact that I could buy it at cost seemed like a good idea,” he said. After developing a strong relationship with Philip Conner’s family, the original owners — and helping them brew, keg, and bottle in the early days — Farbstein jumped at the chance to buy Real Ale when Conner decided to sell.
FALL 2020 95
drinkery
The success of the brewery gave them the foundation to get their license to distill in 2014. Farbstein and brewer Ty Phelps (who later started Andalusia Whiskey Company nearby) obtained a custom-made copper Alembic still from Spain and began dreaming of ways they could use their brews to create spirits. Paramount to everything coming out of Real Spirits is a dedication to local ingredients. That all starts with the water. “The water in Blanco, pulled out of the river fed through underground springs, has a lot of great hardness and micronutrients in it,” Farbstein said. “It’s really good brewing water for the styles of beers we’re making.” The spirits take the existing beer brands people already have an affinity for and express them in a new way. “The washes for all of our distillate are made from our beers, absent the hops. A lot of distillers don’t pay attention to yeast and the impact it has on the final distillate, and we really wanted to highlight the different styles of yeast and allow people to understand the significance it plays in the overall spirit process,” Farbstein said. With current head distiller Davin Topel at the helm, Real Spirits released their first bottles in 2017. Like Farbstein, Topel’s zeal for what he does began early in life. When he, his wife, and baby moved from Utah, where he distilled for High West, he was picky in his job search. He appreciated that Real Ale is all about unfiltered, unpasteurized, full flavor ingredients. It was also important to him that every bit of the process is done here in Texas. “I knew they were aligned with my values in the industry. The direction they were going was really exciting to me. Brad told me he wanted to make whiskey…and gin.” Making gin would be a lot more complicated, but Topel was willing to think outside the box and hopped on board. Their Texas Hill Country Signature Whiskey is made from a blend of their Devil’s Backbone Belgian-style Tripel and their Real Heavy Scotch Ale. The two are brewed, fermented, distilled, and aged separately. The Devil’s Backbone makes a slightly sweeter bourbonstyle whiskey with hints of caramel, honey, and cinnamon. Real Heavy is richer, leaning more toward a scotch flavor profile. “What makes our distillery a little different is instead of putting those distinct styles of whiskey out as two products, we combine them so that they complement each other. That’s going to give you one singular cohesive product,” Topel explained. “It’s like an artist trying to create a different color that nobody’s seen before that’s pleasing to the eye.” And then there’s the “grain to glass” gin, which is said to cause people to do cartwheels in their parking lot. Because of the kind of still they have—not usually used for gin—they start with their Belgian white style (hop-less) beer instead of a neutral grain like vodka. This means more work, and more flavor. Only about 2–4% of gin distillers in the world use their own wash. With their typical artistry and patience, they also use rainwater to cut the liquor very slowly. “It allows the spirit to really shine through,” Farbstein said.
96
Rock&Vine
drinkery
A LOT OF LOVE, EFFORT, PASSION, CREATIVITY, AND AMAZING INGREDIENTS GO INTO OUR SPIRITS. - Brad Farbstein
Among the ten botanicals used in the distillation process are standards like juniper, coriander, and citrus fruits, along with Hill Country Lavender (Blanco) and the magic local ingredient: bottle brush leaves, an integral component of their gin’s unique flavor. Yes, you’re allowed to make a gin and tonic with this spirit, but with the way it rolls over and through the mouth, this New American style gin is best enjoyed on its own. Moving forward, they’re working on whiskeys made from more complex blends of up to four of their beer styles. They also release an exclusive batch of a spirit they call Totem once a year, each fall. Topel has always loved mezcal, and more specifically pechuga, made in Oaxaca, Mexico. Pechuga, Spanish for “breast,” is mezcal infused with botanicals as well as animal protein, usually chicken breast. That protein adds to the mouthfeel of the spirit, just like oils from botanicals do, and gives it a slight umami characteristic. Topel was not out to recreate this traditional Mexican liquor. Instead, he wanted to pay homage to it. So, Real Spirit Totem doesn’t use agave; instead, they use their white beer paired with passion fruit. As a hunting and fishing guide, Topel is interested in the way this spirit represents connection to the local land, so the protein he uses is Texas hog, which he harvested himself for this year’s distillation. He’ll also include botanicals like pecans, smoked chipotles, Fredericksburg peaches, rosemary, Hill Country lavender, and the bottle brush leaves. “Pechuga is usually drank at the Day of the Dead Festival or other special occasions to promote good luck and prosperity,” Topel said. “I wanted to incorporate the same kind of ritual, to create a communal feel around Totem. It’s meant to be drank before an outdoor adventure: hunting, fishing, whitewater rafting, biking.” The ritual involves rimming a copita with honey from the place of your adventure. “There’s already a lot of Texas in the spirit, but the honey binds it to whatever region you’re in. After pouring the Totem, you light it on fire—awakening the spirit and taming the sharp bite, put it out, lick the honey, and sip.” Real Spirits is a founding member of the Texas Whiskey Association, which identifies, certifies, and promotes whiskeys that are made, aged, distilled, and packaged in the state. This fall, they’re teaming up with TWA and Total Wine to release a custom blend of their signature whiskey. This Signature Select will feature a double barrel whiskey flavored using the port wine barrels from Grape Creek Vineyard in Fredericksburg. Their spirits are available in liquor stores and at the Blanco taproom, where they’re currently offering curbside pickup and building an outdoor space as they wait to reopen once it’s deemed safe. Anyone who ever enjoyed music at Austin’s downtown Threadgill’s will be happy to learn this space will include the original Threadgill’s stage rebuilt on their property. “A lot of love, effort, passion, creativity, and amazing ingredients go into our spirits,” Farbstein said. Pick up a bottle, set aside some time to relax and savor each sip. & RV
FALL 2020 97
THE CLUB
The Locals’ Place
Opening Hours: Thursday - Saturday 5-11 pm Saturday Afternoon: Bluesic - Wine - Bistro Wine Tasting by Reservation 316 Goehmann Ln. Fredericksburg, TX • 830-992-3421
LIVE M US FINE B IC AND I SPECIA STRO LTIES
18 CABINS on 26 acres just two minutes to Main Street along the creek. The only Vineyard IN Fredericksburg!
Home of the “Cabelas” photo shoots
Barons
The Romantic
830-990-4048
Getaway
www.baronscreekside.com
98
Rock&Vine
WILLKOMMEN
Welcome to THE site for Fredericksburg, Texas real Estate and properties for sale. Nestled in the beautiful Texas Hill Country, Fredericksburg’s Small-town atmosphere, relaxed lifestyle, and the quality of life draw families and retirees from all over.
Let’s build wellness rather than treating disease. - BRUCE DAGGY
Whether you are buying or selling, or just considering the perfect place for your retirement years, I would love to serve youEVERY STEP OF THE WAY. Our clinic believes in getting to the “Root” of your health concerns and this season we would like to offer some additional options to maintaining your optimal health happiness. Now offering IV NUTRITIONAL THERAPIES to assist with fatigue, aging, chronic disease, seasonal allergies and more. VITAMIN SHOTS- add another layer of immune boosting protection to your seasonal concerns.
Please check our website for complete menu of services including peptides, ozone, prolotherapy and advanced testing options.
CAROLE REED
CAROLE@CAROLEREED.COM
830-992-9446
Broker J.R. Russel Lic# 601430
Dr. Christa O’Leary, D.O. 1603 E Main St, #A, Fredericksburg (830) 992-3042 • hillcountryintegrativemedicine.com
FALL 2020 99
Grape minds
think alike JUST LIKE YOU MAKE AND SERVE THE BEST WINE, WE ARE FOCUSED ON PROVIDING THE BEST SERVICES TO OUR CLIENTS.
At SWBC Insurance Services, we are focused on providing customized insurance coverage to protect wineries and/or vineyard operations—so they can focus on their craft. When we partnered with Chris Brundrett, we knew our shared value of excellence would help us form a strong, lasting partnership.
Visit or call one of our Hill Country experts today to learn more about how we can find the best coverage for your winery, vineyard, or brewery. C.W. Lees SWBC Insurance Services Commercial Lines Producer
Cell: 830.307.4202 Email: clees@swbc.com
“At William Chris Vineyards, we work hard to provide the best possible customer experience every day. We strive to be the very best at what we do and having a great partner like SWBC, who understands our goals, makes a big difference. It’s clear they care about us and our success, and we’re proud to work with them.”
Monty Melcher
—Chris Brundrett | Co-Founder and Winemaker, William Chris Vineyards
609 N. Llano Street, Fredericksburg, TX 78264
SWBC Insurance Services Commercial Lines Producer 924 Jefferson Street. #4, Kerrville, TX 78028 Cell: 830.285.5439 Email: mmelcher@swbc.com
©2020 SWBC. All Rights Reserved. 1045-A8529 04/20
100
Rock&Vine
COZY UP TO A FI N E I TALIAN.
30 8 E . Ma in St. | Downtown Fredericks bu rg, T X
Where everyon e is treated like family.
(83 0) 992 - 3 2 73 W W W. C R O S S M O U N T A I N V I N E Y A R D S . C O M FALL 2020 101
drinkery maps 123
Pontotoc
41 San Saba
Lake Buchanan
Tow
118
Buchanan Dam
29 29
Llano
Castell
114
29
Oatmeal
Lake LBJ
Sunrise Beach
Travis Peak
71
16
97
92
66 27 16
117 3
56
71 73
Johnson City
109 11
10
116
35
18
290
95 37
30 82 61
41 Driftwood 40 122
Sisterdale
44
100
23 10
99
Boerne
60 Bandera
22 27
183 San Marcos
Spring Branch
19
AUSTIN
71
103
Wimberley Comfort
76 Vanderpool
Lakeway Bee Cave
91
KERRVILLE
Center Point
106
Dripping Springs
87
89
119
17 Henly 38
10 Blanco
Jonestown Lago Vista
57
83
85
Lake Travis
Round Rock
77 Cypress Mill
Luckenbach
SEE PAGE 104
67
Hye
Stonewall
102
105
Willow City
FREDERICKSBURG
13
Spicewood
Round Mtn.
26
52
183
46
Marble Falls
Horseshoe Bay
87
Georgetown
Liberty Hill
Granite Shoals 16
Rogers 35
86
Kingsland
34
Andice
Bertram
Burnet
111
Inks Lake
47, 80 & 96
290
112
88
Blufftown
71
Mason
Florence
281
Canyon Lake
Canyon City
70
281
36 68
Smithson Valley Bulverde
87
39
110 35
N
Gruene 46
New Braunfels
32 Seguin
115
W
E
S
Hill Country Wine Region The Texas Hill Country region now has over 100+ breweries, distilleries, wineries and vineyards combined and continues to grow each month. With this growth, Rock & Vine has also expanded its reach with coverage to the northern counties of San Saba and McCullouch, down south to Bandera, Kendall and Comal, out west to Mason, Kimble and Menard, and east to Hays, Williamson and Travis counties.
Highlighted areas on page 104
102
Rock&Vine
Listing numbers correspond with numbers on map. Locations are approximate not to scale. 1.
12 Fires Winery
32. Copper Star Cellars (Off Map)
63. Hye Meadow Winery
96. Sandstone Cellars (Off Map)
2. 290 Vinery
33. Cross Mountain
64. Hye Rum
97. Santa Maria Cellars
3. 290 Wine Castle
34. Dancing Bee Winery (Off Map) 65. Inwood Estates Winery
98. Signor Vineyards
4. 1851 Vineyards
35. Deep Eddy Vodka
66. Iron Goat Distillery
99. Singing Water Vineyards
67. Kerrville Hills Winery
100. Sister Creek Vineyards
68. Kinematic Brewing Company
101. Six Shooters Cellars
69. Kuhlman Cellars
102. Slate Mill Collective
70. La Cruz de Comal Wines
103. Solaro Estate Winery
100 Durango • Johnson City 300 W. Main (Hwy. 290) • Johnson City 101 Durango • Johnson City 4222 S. Hwy. 16 • Fredericksburg
5. Ab Astris
320 Klein Rd • Stonewall
6. Adega Vinho
972 S County Rd. 1623 • Stonewall
7. Altstadt Brewery
6120 E. US Hwy 290 • Fredericksburg
8. Alexander Vineyards 6360 Goehmann Lane Fredericksburg
9. Andreucci Wines
2 Locations 8898 US Hwy. 290 308 E. Main St. • Fredericksburg
10. Andalusia Whiskey Company 6462 N. Highway 281• Blanco 11. Arc de Texas
4555 Hwy. 281 • Johnson City
12. Armadillo’s Leap Winery
2 Locations 134 E. Main St 6266 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
13. Augusta Vin
140 Augusta Vin Ln • Fredericksburg
14. Baron’s Creek Vineyard
5865 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
15. Becker Vineyards
2 Locations 307 E. Main St. 464 Becker Farms Rd. • Fredericksburg
16. Bell Mountain Vineyards
463 Bell Mountain Rd. • Fredericksburg
17. Bell Springs Winery 3700 Bell Springs Rd. Dripping Springs
18. Bella Vista Ranch
3101 Mount Sharp Rd. • Wimberley
19. Bending Branch Winery
142 Lindner Branch Trail • Comfort
20. Bingham Family Vineyards
13217 FM 1117 • Seguin
308 E. Main St. • Fredericksburg 8060 W. US Hwy. 190 • Rogers 2250 E. US Hwy. 290 Dripping Springs
36. Dodging Duck Brewhaus 402 River Rd. • Boerne
37. Driftwood Estate Winery 4001 Elder Hill Rd. • Driftwood
38. Dripping Springs Vodka 5330 Bell Springs Rd. Dripping Springs
39. Dry Comal Creek Vineyards 1741 Herbelin Rd. • New Braunfels
40. Duchman Family Winery 13308 FM 150 W. • Driftwood
41. Fall Creek Vineyards
2 Locations 18059-A FM 1826 • Driftwood 1820 County Rd. 222 • Tow
42. Fat Ass Winery Tasting Room 153 E. Main St. • Fredericksburg
43. Fat Ass Ranch Winery
51 Elgin Behrends Rd. • Fredericksburg
44. Fawncrest Vineyard & Winery 1370 Westside Circle • Canyon Lake
45. Fiesta Winery - 2 locations
147A E. Main St. 6260 US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
46. Flat Creek Estate
24912 Singleton Bend East Rd. Marble Falls
47. Fly Gap Winery (Off Map)
2851 Hickory Grove Rd. • Mason
48. Four Point Cellars
10354 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
49. Fredericksburg Brewing Company 245 E. Main St. • Fredericksburg
50. Fredericksburg Winery
247 W. Main St. • Fredericksburg
51. French Connection
1197 Hye Albert Rd. • Hye
52. Georgetown Winery 3915 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
21. Blue Lotus Winery
8500 W Hwy 290 • Hye
22. Boerne Brewery
106 Sage Brush • Boerne
23. Branch on High
704 High St. • Comfort
24. Brewbonnet (inside Wildseed farms) 100 Legacy Rd • Fredericksburg
25. Calais Winery
8115 W. US Hwy. 290 • Hye
26. Carter Creek Winery
4064 W US-290 • Johnson City
27. Chisholm Trail Winery
2367 Usener Rd. • Fredericksburg
28. Cibolo Creek Brewing Company 122 N. Plant • Boerne
29. Cicada Cellars
14746 E. US Hwy. 290• Stonewall
30. Comfort Brewing
523 Seventh St. • Comfort
31. Compass Rose Cellars Inc. 1197 Hye Albert Rd. • Hye
715 Main St. • Georgetown
53. Garrison Brothers Distillery 1827 Hye Albert Rd. • Hye
54. Grape Creek Vineyards
10587 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
55. Grape Creek Vineyard on Main 223 E. Main St. • Fredericksburg
56. Hahne Estates Winery
14802 US Hwy. 290 East • Stonewall
57. Hawk’s Shadow Estate Vineyard
7500 McGregor Ln. • Dripping Springs
58. Heath Sparkling (coming summer '19) 10591 US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
59. Hilmy Cellars
12346 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
60. Hill Country Cellars & Winery 3540 S. Hwy 16 Ste 2D • Bandera
61. Hill Country Distillers 723 Front St. • Comfort
62. Horn Wineries
9953 E. US Hwy. 290 • Hye
9953 US Hwy. 290 • Hye
11247 W. US Hwy. 290 • Hye 10303 US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg 817 Usener Rd. • Fredericksburg 3600 Fredericksburg Rd. • Kerrville 635 E. Hwy 46, Suite 207 • Boerne 18421 E. US Hwy. 290 • Stonewall 7405 FM 2722 • Canyon Lake
71. Lewis Wines
3209 W. US Hwy. 290 • Johnson City
72. Longhorn Cellars
315 Ranch Rd. 1376 • Fredericksburg
73. Longhorn Hills and Winery
555 Klappenbach Rd. • Johnson City
74. Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards
6009 US Hwy. 290. • Fredericksburg
75. Lost Draw Cellars
113 E. Park St. • Fredericksburg
76. Lost Maples Winery
34986 Farm Market 187 • Vanderpool
77. McReynolds Winery
706 Shovel Mountain Rd. • Cypress Mill
78. Mendelbaum Winery/Cellars
10207 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
79. Messina Hof Winery
9996 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
80. Murphy's Cellars
120 Fort McKavett St • Mason
81. Narrow Path Winery
2 Locations FM 1623 (South of Hye) • Albert 111 E. Main St. • Fredericksburg
211 San Antonio St. • Mason
12044 S. Hwy. 16 • Fredericksburg 362 Livesay Lane • Fredericksburg 316 Mill Dam Rd. • Comfort
1142 Sisterdale Rd. • Boerne
6264 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg 4222 S State Hwy 16 • Fredericksburg 13111 Silver Creek Rd. Dripping Springs
104. Southold Farm + Cellar 10474 Ranch Road 2721 Fredericksburg
105. Spicewood Vineyards 1419 CR 409 • Spicewood
106. Stone House Vineyard
24350 Haynie Flat Rd. • Spicewood
107. Tejas Winery
8638 US 290 West • Hye
108. Texas Heritage Vineyards
3245 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
109. Texas Hills Vineyard
878 RR 2766 • Johnson City
110. Three Dudes Winery
125 Old Martindale Rd. • San Marcos
111. Torr Na Lochs
7055 W. State Hwy. 29 • Burnet
112. The Vineyard at Florence 8711 W. FM 487 • Florence
113. The Vintage Cellar
6258 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
114. Thirsty Mule Winery & Vineyard 101 CR 257 • Liberty Hill
82. Newsom Vineyards
115. Timber Ridge Winery
83. Pecan Street Brewing
116. Treaty Oak Distilling Company
84. Pedernales Cellars
117. Vinovium
85. Pelota Wines, Inc.
118. Wedding Oak Winery
717 Front St. • Comfort
106 E. Pecan Dr. • Johnson City 2916 Upper Albert Rd. • Stonewall 3209 US Hwy. 290 • Johnson City
86. Perissos Vineyards
7214 W. Park Road 4 • Burnet
87. Perspective Cellars
247 E. Main St. • Fredericksburg
88. Pilot Knob Vineyard 3125 CR 212 • Bertram
89. Pint & Plow Brewing Company 332 Clay St. • Kerrville
90. Pontotoc Vineyard
320 W. Main St. • Fredericksburg
91. Real Ale Brewing Company 231 San Saba Court • Blanco
92. Ron Yates Wines
6676 W. US Hwy. 290• Hye
93. Safari
5479 E. US Hwy. 290 • Fredericksburg
94. Saint Tryphon Vineyard 24 Wasp Creek Rd • Boerne
95. Salt Lick Cellars
2152 Timber Creek Rd. • Pipe Creek 16604 Fitzhugh Rd. • Dripping Springs 214 Edmonds Avenue • Johnson City 2 Locations 316 E. Wallace (Off Map) • San Saba 290 Wine Rd., • Fredericksburg (Under construction)
119. Westcave Cellars Winery 25711 Hamilton Pool Rd. Round Mountain
120. Western Edge Cellars
228 W. Main St. • Fredericksburg
121. William Chris Vineyards 10352 US Hwy. 290 • Hye
122. Wimberley Valley Winery
2825 County Road 183 • Driftwood
123. Wines of Dotson Cervantes 13044 Willis Street • Pontotoc
124. Winotus
115 E. Main St. • Fredericksburg
125. Woodrose Winery
662 Woodrose Lane • Stonewall
126. Zero 815 Winery
11157 W. US Hwy. 290 • Hye
1800-C FM 1826 • Driftwood
FALL 2020 103
drinkery maps 104 LANE
FREDERICKSBURG FREDERICKSBURG
5
RD.
N BACH-CAIN . KE RD
Cain City
1376
COM RD. FORT
C LU
GELLERMANN
54 58
15
ALBER
6
RD
1623
84
107 3 1 121 Hye 21 60 25 63 69 64 125 31
LOWER ALBERT RD.
7865
124
HAHN RD.
CAIN
CITY
Blumenthal
290
Stonewall
59 98 48 43
T
IO
9
290
WOODLAND DR.
RD.
14 74 72
79
Pedernales River
PER
ON
MEUSEBACH CREEK RD .
113 7 45 101 24 8
LBJ National LBJ State Historical Park Historical State Park Ranch
29
UP
NT SAN A
87
20 93
Rocky Hill
CITY
OLD
108
Pedernales River
JENSCHKE LANE
290
LUCKENBACH RD.
GOEHMANN LN.
LANE
HYE ALBERT RD.
GOEHMANN
.
KLEIN RD.
16
Albert
51
53
81
OLD
Luckenbach
WINE CORRIDOR
DOWNTOWN FREDERICKSBURG W. CENTRE ST.
PECAN ST.
ELM
W. COLLEGE ST.
TRAVIS ST.
ORCHARD ST. TRAVIS ST.
16 SCHUBERT ST.
Pioneer Museum
50
33
81 124 45 42
SAN ANTONIO ST. T
EEK S
E. CR
16
N
PARK ST.
W
E
S
104
Rock&Vine
UFER ST.
75
Visitor Information Center
LINCOLN ST.
12
LLANO ST.
Marktplatz
ADAMS ST.
AUSTIN ST.
55
49
Museum of the Pacific War
15 87
MAIN STREET
9
87
S WASHINGTON
MAIN STREET
120
CROCKETT ST.
90
ORANGE ST.
MILAM ST.
AUSTIN ST.
EDISON ST.
BOWIE ST.
ACORN ST.
CHERRY ST.
SCHUBERT ST.
290
A LUXURIOUS ESCAPE FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY
River Access - Near several Wineries, Shopping & Dining Modern Amenities & Secluded Location - Abundant Wildlife
vrbo.com/2028976
Bella on Ella A Hill C ountr y G e t away FALL 2020 105
The Hill Country’s premier theater for live music and entertainment!
Check our website for future shows! Buy tickets online or call (830) 997-7625 109 N. Llano, Fredericksburg
ROCKBOXTHEATER.COM 106
Rock&Vine
Yee Haw Ranch Outfitters
3915 HWY 290 E. • Fredericksburg www.yeehawranch.com • 830-998-2079 FALL 2020 107
108
Rock&Vine
history
The
Buffalo Soldiers By KEN ESTEN COOKE
he Plains Indians named the fighters because of their dark skin and curly hair. And AfricanAmerican regiments, tabbed “Buffalo Soldiers,” fought alongside white troops to help settle the American West. At outposts established by the federal government, these often overlooked soldiers battled hostile forces and helped usher residents into the vast, unsettled region. The U.S. government established 22 outposts around Texas to help usher in and protect settlers. After the Civil War and the Emancipation Proclamation, Black troops saw a newfound mission away from slavery’s demeaning existence. Many of these soldiers had seen action during the Civil War. Around 180,000 fought with Union troops and a few thousand even fought for the South. But after all previous conflicts, Black troops had been sent back into slavery. When the Civil War ended, some drifted west to become farmers, cowboys and settlers. “For most, it was a dream come true. No more cotton fields, no more factories, and $13 cash every month, regular meals, a uniform and a chance to be somebody,” the 1992 documentary “The Buffalo Soldiers” stated. These fighting men had to overcome prejudice from both within the military ranks and also in the communities where they were stationed. White officers commanded the regimens, sometimes receiving a bonus for “having to serve” with them. General Custer was believed to have said, “No thanks. I don’t want to serve with no brunettes.” But they were in demand as hostile Native Americans populated much of the west all the way to California, hampering its settlement. Texas was no different with residents of new settlements, like Fredericksburg, witnessing kidnappings and killings. So they helped build forts, scouted, escorted wagons and surveyors. And they fought and fought hard. Up to 20% of the entire cavalry were black during the late 1800s. Though the white soldiers may have chuckled at the name bestowed upon them by the Natives, the name was actually an honor with an animal they revered and helped them survive. The
Buffalo Soldiers themselves took pride in their moniker, in their fight and their skills. In 1990, recognizing that these fighting men were still mostly overlooked, General Colin Powell helped establish a monument in Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, recognizing their achievements. A painting of a Buffalo Soldier hung in Powell’s office at the Pentagon to remind him of “the thousands of African-Americans who went before me and who shed their blood and made their sacrifices so that I could sit where I sit today,” the Los Angeles Times wrote about the dedication ceremony. Texas Parks & Wildlife Department started a program with a reenactment group to preserve the history in 1996. Today, they offer reenactments around the state at several different state park sites. Kevin Malcolm is the educator and curator for Fort McKavett State Historical Site, located just west of Menard. “The Buffalo Soldiers’ history is intimately connected with Fort McKavett,” Malcolm said. “They were an integral part of rebuilding, repairing and expanding and were a significant force for good in West Texas following the Civil War.” The story of the Buffalo Soldiers is one of heroism and duty, yet one largely overlooked in history. Fortunately, the story is being kept alive by dedicated reenactors and history enthusiasts. Fort McKavett www.thc.texas.gov/historic-sites/fort-mckavettstate-historic-site 7066 FM 864 Fort McKavett, TX 76841 (325) 396-2358 Open daily 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., except for major holidays. (Call ahead for possible changes due to coronavirus safety practices.) Malcolm’s book recommendation: “The Buffalo Soldiers: A Narrative of the Black Cavalry in the West,” by William H. Leckie.
FALL 2020 109
“Old Meets New” Farmhouse Comfort in the Texas Hill Country
1348 Royal Oaks Loop Fredericksburg 830-992-3407 www.behrhouse.com
Your own little slice of Texas. Existing horse sanctuary that currently books trail rides 6 days a week. Owner would love to pass this rescue mission and successful booking clientele on for the love of land & horse preservation.
2 Residences — 2 Ponds — Horse Facilities 140.4 Acres — AG Exempt Tax Status 830-998-0024 Income Producing Vacation Rental 6 miles to downtown FBG landandranchtexas.com 110
Rock&Vine
圀䤀一䔀 吀䄀匀吀䤀一䜀 圀䤀一䔀 䌀䰀唀䈀 䔀嘀䔀一吀匀
The Perfect Venue for your Perfect Event 830.997.7470 FOURPOINTWINE.COM 10354 E US HWY 290 • FREDERICKSBURG, TX
䨀伀䤀一 唀匀 䘀伀刀 䄀一 䔀堀儀唀䤀匀䤀吀䔀 倀刀䤀嘀䄀吀䔀 䔀堀倀䔀刀䤀䔀一䌀䔀 伀刀 䈀伀伀䬀 夀伀唀刀 一䔀堀吀 䔀嘀䔀一吀 䄀吀㐀⸀ 䌀䔀䰀䰀䄀刀匀⸀ 圀圀圀⸀䘀伀唀刀倀伀䤀一吀圀䤀一䔀⸀䌀伀䴀 簀㠀㌀ ⸀㤀㤀㜀⸀㜀㐀㜀 簀 ㌀㔀㐀 䔀 唀匀 䠀圀夀 ㈀㤀 Ⰰ 䘀刀䔀䐀䔀刀䤀䌀䬀匀䈀唀刀䜀Ⰰ 吀堀
FALL 2020 111
in the hills
photo by Ben Newman
112
Rock&Vine
in the hills
ACCEPTING & LOVING
A RIVER By DANIEL OPPENHEIMER
he Nueces River is vast, even by Texas standards. It starts high up on the Edwards Plateau. Sourced by emerald, spring-fed creeks in Edwards and Real Counties, the Nueces River cuts through the rocky Hill Country before pivoting amidst the South Texas Brush Country, onward toward the coastal prairie; it pauses at Lake Corpus Christi, before it ultimately empties into the Gulf of Mexico at Nueces Bay. Few, if any, know this river better than Sky Lewey. Born in Uvalde, Lewey was raised outside of town on the banks of the Nueces River. “I was swimming before I was walking,” she said. The river has long supported Hill Country agriculture — cattle, cotton, wool and mohair production — while also providing fishing, hunting, and other recreational opportunities. One of Lewey’s earliest memories is sitting with her grandfather in a johnboat, peering over the ledge, into the crystal-clear water while he fished the deep holes.
“My family has been ranching along the Nueces for six generations. As a kid, I was always horseback, moving livestock, and whenever we’d have to cross the Nueces, we’d jump off our horses to cool off.” For more than 20 years, Lewey has worked for the Nueces River Authority, supporting fellow landowners and communities to take care of the land and water that comprise the expansive river basin. And on good days, she’s able to leave her desk and boots behind to step into those cooling, clear waters. “That river has given me my bearings.” During her time at the Nueces River Authority, Lewey has interacted with thousands of land stewards. She draws from her familial experience living and ranching along the Nueces River as well as decades of experience bringing together researchers and land managers to address emerging problems. “Everything we do on the land is eventually reflected in a river,” she said. “That’s why it’s so important to think about the whole landscape, how big and little pieces fit together.”
FALL 2020 113
EVERYTHING WE DO ON THE LAND IS EVENTUALLY REFLECTED IN A RIVER.
photo by Daniel Oppenheimer
- Sky Lewey
Perhaps the most intricate aspect of this riverine patchwork is the intertwining of surface and groundwater. Through its interaction with porous and cracked limestone beneath our feet, the Nueces River Basin is estimated to provide approximately 60 percent of the recharge to the Edwards Aquifer, the primary source of drinking water for the City of San Antonio. Across the Upper Nueces, researchers have identified stretches of the river that gain flows sourced by springs and underground aquifers, versus alternating reaches that, in fact, lose flows as they seep back under ground, recharging the groundwater. Ongoing studies are assessing how this natural, oscillating pattern shapes the river and aquifers. photos by Ben Newman 114
Rock&Vine
in the hills
When most people think about the health of a river, they look into the channel, focusing narrowly on the water. In a pioneering fashion, Lewey has challenged this natural tendency by cultivating a state-wide appreciation for riparian areas. Often overlooked, misunderstood and mismanaged, riparian areas are the verdant, transitional zones adjacent to a creek, river, or lake. When characterized with a diversity and abundance of deep-rooted, native plants, riparian areas provide a multitude of benefits, such as greater bank stability, flood mitigation, fish and wildlife habitat, and cleaner water. By hosting ranch workshops, creating riparian field guides, and conducting countless presentations, Lewey has demonstrated that the health of our Hill Country rivers is intrinsically related to the health of these riparian areas. If there is a particular hindrance, such as a poorly designed stream crossing or low water dam, excessive riparian grazing or mowing, Lewey will encourage landowners to use thoughtful steps to manage that stressor. Otherwise, she underscores that creeks and rivers love fixing themselves and its often best to let them recover on their own. “Acceptance is the thing — love and accept Hill Country rivers and riparian areas as they, rather than trying to change them to look like somewhere or something else.” When a healthy river or riparian areas is altered (such as by excessive grazing, mowing, or a large-scale development), the change can alter the balance of how water and sediment are carried downstream. Over time, rivers recalibrate. Perhaps they may change the slope of their channel by adding a meander to slow down erosive forces. Or, they may cut across a bend when faced with too much deposition of sediment and not enough water. Lewey has seen this recovery first-hand along her family’s stretch of the Nueces. After vehicles were removed from recreating in the river, the riparian area began to recover. Once bare, cobble bars are now comprised of native shrubs and trees such as sycamore, mulberry, black willow, and buttonbush, along with wildflowers, vines, and deep-rooted native grasses like Switchgrass and Eastern Gamagrass. These riparian plants have stabilized the banks, reducing erosion into the river. Without the understanding of and appreciation for how Hill Country creeks and rivers function — the dynamic interaction of soil, water, and vegetation — often, Lewey cautions that good intentions and quick fixes can harm these iconic systems. “When it comes to our Hill Country rivers, ‘Doing a little and watching a lot’ is a safe approach.”
photo by Julie Lewey She recognizes that this is a challenging message. “We have this innate desire to fix things and it’s really tough to simply appreciate them as they are, especially if they’re different than what we’re accustomed to.” Rather, we should employ management strategies that work with — not against — these natural river and riparian processes. Essential to maintaining clear, clean rivers is sound land stewardship. “Watch closely, try a few small experiments, and see what works. And if you can watch closely, you’re going to learn a lot and achieve your desired outcomes.” And there’s another silver lining to Lewey’s philosophy of love, acceptance, and understanding how all the pieces fit together. “If you can appreciate the natural condition and function of the land and river, you’re going to save yourself a lot of work.” R&V
FALL 2020 115
ĬšàƢÃĦ˘êğêŋĆÃĦŜ˘ÃĦæ˘ÿÃğğ˘ĉĦ˘ğĬŷêʧ˘ ÃŋŜšŎê˘žĬšŎ˘ĥêĥĬŎĉêŔ˘ŸĉŜƢŋğêĦŜž˘Ĭÿ˘ŋĆĬŜĬŔʧ
êŔêŎŷÃŜĉĬĦŔ˘ êōšĉŎêæʧ˘ <Ĭ˘ŜĬ˘ŸŸŸʧ¯ĉŔĉŜ Ćê ŎêŔêŎŷêʧàĬĥ˘ŜĬ˘ŔàĆêæšğê˘žĬšŎ˘ŷĉŔĉŜʧ ʓʒʍ˘#Ĭšßğê˘BĬŎĦ˘ æ ;ŎêæêŎĉàĜŔßšŎĀʨ˘ µ˘ʔʕʓʏʑ˘̦˘ʕʐʍʧʖʖʏʧʍʐʔʐ
116
Rock&Vine
WELCOME TO YOUR HOME IN THE TEXAS HILL COUNTRY. Discover our family-owned, boutique wine resort in a rustic-meets-upscale oasis in the heart of Texas Hill Country. Stay in our spacious villas with luxury amenities. Enjoy award-winning wines inspired by a founding family of Texas Wine Country. Dine in Old 290 Brewery steakhouse-style restaurant featuring locally-sourced ingredients. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re visiting for a day or a much needed get away, Carter Creek Winery Resort & Spa is the perfect escape.
4064 West US Highway 290 | Johnson City, Texas 78636 877.431.7665 | reservations@cartercreek.com | CarterCreek.com
FALL 2020 117
END
notes
By KEN ESTEN COOKE Recipe provided by Fischer & Wieser
MINI APPLE PIES INGREDIENTS: 2 frozen pie crusts, thawed 2 apples, peeled and chopped (1 granny smith, 1 gala) ½ cup Fischer & Wieser’s Pecan Apple Butter 1 egg 1 tablespoon water DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Using a pastry cutter or ring mold, cut the thawed pie crusts into circles 4-inches across and spread out half of them on a baking sheet coated with vegetable spray. THE HISTORY OF BUFFALO NICKELS When the Buffalo Nickel was introduced by the U.S. Treasury on March 4, 1913, it was hugely popular since it was the first coinage without a chief executive’s image. A Native American was featured on one side and a massive buffalo standing on a mound on the other. The U.S. Mint had problems with the mound image rubbing away the denomination, so they soon switched to an image without the mound. (Those originals are extra valuable to collectors.) The Native American on the flip side is said to have features from several different tribes, a way of celebrating more than just a particular sect. In addition to wanting to honor Native Americans in some way, the Mint also sought to honor the mighty American Buffalo. Its numbers had dwindled due to segmenting of land, over-hunting and poor policy targeting the food source of Native Americans still in the newly settled areas. For their part, Native Americans revered the buffalo, using every part of its body as tools, cover and clothing. They thought those who possess the spirit of a buffalo do not back down from a challenge, yet live in harmony with the people and things around them. Another more common thought is that having the buffalo spirit means one’s prosperity is tied to the gratefulness for the things in one’s life. The coin also contains the word “Liberty” which, while an American ideal, surely was ironic to the almost extinct animal and the Native Americans moved to reservations. The coin was in circulation for roughly 25 years.
118
Rock&Vine
In a bowl, mix the chopped apples with the pecan apple butter. Spoon about 1 tablespoon of apple mixture into the center of the circles on the sheet. Lightly beat the egg with the water in a bowl, making an egg wash. Coat the outer edge of each filled circle with the egg wash and top with remaining circles, crimping the edges to seal. Use remaining pie crust to decorate tops of pies, if desired. Brush with the remaining egg wash and bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Cool for 10-15 minutes before serving. Makes 6-8 mini-pies
HEAD FOR THE HILLS M A K E T H I S Y O U R N E W F I S H I N G S P O T T O D AY
2 4 8 ± A C R E S | C A L L F O R D E TA I L S 257 W MAIN ST, FREDERICKSBURG, TX
OFFICE: 830-997-6531 FREDERICKSBURGREALTY.COM FALL 2020 119
I am pleased to introduce the Age Management Center of the Hill Country! This new association of health care providers will be a “one-stop-shop” for addressing the various issues of aging. Kathy Simmons, RN, BSN
Age Management Center Associates
Bella Luz MedSpa
Continuing its 14-year tradition of providing a full scope of results-based aesthetic treatments. Bella Luz will be moving its office to the Center.
David Young, MD
Anti-Aging, Wellness, and Preventative Medicine
Board Ceritified in Family Practice and Anti Aging through Cenegenics. He is also certified in Peptide and Hormone Replacement Therapy.
The new center will be located at 117 Hugo, Suite C. (At Five Points, behind TSO)
120
Rock&Vine
Dr. Marion Belk Dr. David Young Now Pre-Booking Appointments
Marion Belk, MD
Dermatologist
Board Ceritified in Family Medicine and Anti Aging through Cenegenics. Finished Dermatology fellowship 2019 at UTSA Health Science Center. He will be treating all disorders of the skin.
Leigh Ann Gauntt, LAc, MAcOM, RN, BSN
Acupuncturist
By combining nursing experience with time-honored Eastern Medicine techniques, including acupuncture, Leigh Ann brings a personalized integrative approach to aging challenges. Please call 830.792.3552 (Bella’s number)
Age Management. It’s what we do.
The Center will open for patients starting November 2.