FreeSpirit Nightshade (Deja Vu) Inspiration

Bewitched Quilt

Featuring Nightshade - Déjà Vu by Tula Pink

Collection:

NightshadeDéjà Vu by Tula Pink

Technique: Pieced

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Finished Size: 96" x 96" (2.44m x 2.44m)

All possible care has been taken to assure the accuracy of this pattern. We are not responsible for printing errors or the manner in which individual work varies. Please read the instructions carefully before starting this project. If kitting, it is recommended a sample is made to confirm accuracy.

M. Schmidt

Fabric Requirements

Additional Recommendations

Project designed by Stacey Day | Tech edited by Alison

(B) (C) (D)

Cutting

WOF = Width of Fabric

HST = Half-square Triangle

HST Units in this quilt are made from squares cut in half diagonally into HSTs, and then sewn together in pairs, allowing for precise placement of directional prints. If you prefer to make your HST units slightly oversized and trim to size, increase the 6 7⁄ 8" cuts to 7" (or your desired amount of overage).

From Fabric A, fussy cut:

(3) 121⁄2" x 121⁄2" squares, each centered on a different cameo motif

From Fabric B, cut:

(2) 127⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(6) 127⁄8" x 127⁄8", then cut once diagonally to make (12) large HSTs

(1) 67⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(2) 67⁄8" x 67⁄8", then cut once diagonally to make (4) small HSTs

(14) 61⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(8) 61⁄2" x 251⁄2"

(4) 61⁄2" x 241⁄2"

(4) 61⁄2" x 181⁄2"

From Fabric C, cut:

(5) 61⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(8) 61⁄2" x 131⁄2"

(4) 61⁄2" x 121⁄2"

(4) 61⁄2" x 61⁄2"

(2) 43⁄4" x WOF strips; subcut

(4) 43⁄4" x 19"

Bewitched Quilt

From Fabric D, cut:

(1) 19" x WOF; subcut

(4) 43⁄4" x 271⁄2" from the WOF, and from the remaining WOF,

(1) 61⁄2" x 121⁄2"

(1) 9" x 9" square, then cut once diagonally to make (2) HSTs

(7) 61⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(8) 61⁄2" x 191⁄2"

(4) 61⁄2" x 181⁄2"

(3) 61⁄2" x 121⁄2"

From Fabric E, cut:

(2) 67⁄8" x 67⁄8"; subcut

(6) 67⁄8" x WOF, then cut once diagonally to make (12) HSTs

If you would like the directional fabrics cut so that all prints can be placed right-reading for their final orientation, follow the cutting diagram to cut half the squares in one direction and the other half in the opposite direction.

Fabrics E and F:

Directional Cutting Diagram

Fabric E and F Directional Cutting Diagram

From Fabric H, cut:

(2) 67⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(6) 67⁄8" x 67⁄8", then cut once diagonally to make (12) HSTs

(1) 31⁄2" x 31⁄2"

(1) 31⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(11) 31⁄2" x 31⁄2"

From Fabric I, cut:

(1) 67⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(4) 67⁄8" x 67⁄8", then cut once diagonally to make (8) HSTs

From Fabric J, cut:

(4) 67⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(16) 67⁄8" x 67⁄8", then cut once diagonally to make (32) HSTs

From Fabric K and M, cut from each:

(2) 67⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(8) 67⁄8" x 67⁄8", then cut once diagonally to make (16) HSTs

From Fabric L, cut:

(1) 67⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(4) 67⁄8" x 67⁄8", then cut once diagonally to make (8) HSTs

(1) 61⁄2" x WOF; subcut

From Fabrics F and G, cut from each:

(3) 67⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(12) 67⁄8" x 67⁄8", then cut once diagonally to make (24) HSTs

If you would like the directional Fabric F cut so that all prints can be placed right-reading for their final orientation, follow the cutting diagram to cut half the squares in one direction and the other half in the opposite direction.

(4) 61⁄2" x 61⁄2"

From Fabric N, cut: enough 21⁄2"-wide bias strips for 400" (10.2m) bias binding

Instructions

All seam allowances are 1⁄4" and pieces are sewn right sides together. Press seam allowances in the direction indicated by the black arrows.

1. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner across the wrong side of each Fabric H 31⁄2" x 31⁄2" square. Pin one marked square to each corner of a Fabric A 121⁄2" x 121⁄2" square with the lines oriented as shown, sew along the line, trim the seam allowance to 1⁄4", and press away from the center to complete an A Unit 121⁄2" square including seam allowances. Make 3 total. (

3. Sew the A and B Units together to make the Center Section, making sure the motifs in the A Units are all oriented correctly. Press towards the center of the unit. (Fig. 3)

2. Sew a pair of Fabric G 67⁄8" HSTs to each short side of the Fabric D 9" HSTs. Press towards Fabric G to make (2) B Units. If needed, trim to 61⁄2" x 121⁄2". (Fig. 2)

4. Sew a Fabric G and Fabric E HST together along the long edges to make a G/E HST unit (Fig. 4a ). If needed, trim to square up to 61⁄2" x 61⁄2", keeping the diagonal seam centered in the corners. The HST units and blocks will be rotated in their final assembly, so if you prefer all right-reading directional prints, refer to the quilt layout diagram on page 9 and arrange the Fabric E HSTs in advance so there are 2 of each orientation as shown in Figure 4b. Repeat to make a total of 8 G/E HST Units (2 of each orientation).

Fig.

Fig.

Fig.

Fig. 3

A Unit motif

Fig. 4a

Fig. 4a

Fig. 4b

5. Again referring to the quilt layout diagram for final orientation if you prefer all right-reading directional prints, sew a Fabric G HST to the E side of a G/E HST Unit to make a C Unit. Repeat to make a second C Unit and 2 mirrored Cr Units as shown. Then sew G HSTs to both E sides of the remaining G/E HST Units as shown to make 4 D Units (Fig. 5).

7. Fold the Fabric D 43⁄4" x 271⁄2" and Fabric C 43⁄4" x 19" rectangles and 4 Fabric B small HSTs in half lengthwise to mark the center. Sew a Fabric D rectangle, a Fabric C rectangle, and a Fabric B small HST together as shown, matching centers. Trim both ends of the C and D strips even with the raw edges of the Fabric B triangle to complete an F Unit, making sure the short sides of the unit measure at least 181⁄2". Make 4. (Fig. 7)

6. In the same manner, make (4) D Units using Fabric E and Fabric H triangles as shown. Sew a Fabric B large HST to the diagonal side of these units to complete 4 E Units. (Fig. 6)

Fig. 7

8. Sew (1) each C, D, and E Unit together, then add the F Unit along the diagonal side as shown, to complete an A Block. Make 2 A Blocks (181⁄2" x 241⁄2"), then in the same manner, make 2 Ar Blocks as shown, replacing the C Unit with the Cr Unit. (Fig. 8)

Bewitched Quilt

9. Again referring to the quilt layout diagram for final orientation if you prefer all right reading directional prints, repeat step 4 using the Fabric F, J, and M HSTs to make 8 F/M HST Units and 16 F/J HST Units.

Then add M and I HSTs to the F sides of the F/M HST Units as shown to make 4 each G and Gr Units and add J and K HSTs to the F sides of the F/J HST Units as shown to make 8 each H and Hr Units (Fig. 9).

Make 8 each

10. Sew a Fabric B large HST to the long side of 4 each H/Hr units to make 4 each I/Ir Units (Fig. 10).

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

Bewitched Quilt

11. Sew 1 each Fabric B, D, and C 61⁄2" high rectangles together as shown with a Fabric L HST. Trim the offset ends of the strips aligned with the raw edge with the Fabric L triangle as shown to complete a J Unit. Repeat to make a a total of 4 each J Units and mirrored Jr Units as shown (Fig. 11).

12. Sew a G and an H Unit to the Fabric B sides of an I Unit as shown, then add a J Unit along the long sides, pinning to match seam intersections to complete a B Blocks (24 1⁄2" square including seam allowances). Repeat to make a total of 4 each B Block and mirrored Br Blocks, replacing all the units with reversed units as shown (Fig. 12).

Fig.

13. Arrange 1 each Fabric L and C 61⁄2" x 61⁄2" squares, Fabric C and D 61⁄2" x 121⁄2" rectangles, Fabric D and B 61⁄2" x 181⁄2" rectangles, and a Fabric B 61⁄2" x 241⁄2" rectangles as shown. Sew together, starting with the squares, to complete a C Block (241⁄2" square including seam allowances) (Fig. 13). Fig. 13

Bewitched Quilt

Quilt Top Assembly

Note: Follow the Quilt Layout diagram (page 9) while assembling the quilt. Pay attention to the orientation of directional prints in Fabrics E and F if you cut and assembled the blocks in that manner. Pin to match seam intersections and press seams open or to one side if you prefer.

14. Arrange the A, Ar, B, Br, and C Blocks and the Center Section in rows following the layout diagram, rotating blocks as needed.

15. Sew the A and Ar blocks together into pairs, then sew to the top and bottom of the Center Section.

16. Sew the B and Br Blocks together. Then sew blocks and sections together into rows.

17. Sew the rows together to complete the quilt top (961⁄2" x 961⁄2").

Finishing

18. Sew the 21⁄2" Fabric N bias binding strips together end-to-end. Press seams open. Press the binding strip in half wrong sides together.

19. Layer backing (wrong side up), batting, and quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers together and quilt as desired. Trim excess batting and backing even with the top after quilting is completed.

20. Leaving an 8" tail of binding, sew the binding to the top of the quilt through all layers matching all raw edges. Miter corners. Stop approximately 12" from where you started. Lay both loose ends of binding flat along quilt edge. Where the loose ends meet, fold them back on themselves and press to form a crease. Using this crease as your stitching line, sew the two open ends of the binding right sides together. Trim seam to 1⁄4" and press open. Finish sewing binding to quilt.

21. Turn the binding to the back of quilt and hand-stitch in place.

Center Section

A Block Ar Block

B Block Br Block

C Block

Family Magic Quilt

Featuring Nightshade - Déjà Vu by Tula Pink

Collection: NightshadeDéjà Vu by Tula Pink

Technique: Pieced

Skill Level: Intermediate

Finished Size: 65" x 65" (1.65m x 1.65m)

Finished Sizes:

Finished Block Sizes: 12" x 12" (30.48cm x 30.48cm) 12" x 24" (30.48cm x 60.96cm 24" x 24" (60.96cm x 60.96cm)

All possible care has been taken to assure the accuracy of this pattern. We are not responsible for printing errors or the manner in which individual work varies. Please read the instructions carefully before starting this project. If kitting, it is recommended a sample is made to confirm accuracy.

Family Magic Quilt

Project designed by Stacey Day | Tech edited by Alison

M. Schmidt

Fabric Requirements

* includes binding

Backing (Purchased Separately)

44" (1.12m) wide

OR 108" (2.74m) wide

Additional Recommendations

• 100% cotton thread in colors to match

• 73" x 73" (1.85m x 1.85m) batting

• Rotary cutting ruler with a 45° line

Family Magic Quilt

Cutting

WOF = Width of Fabric, cut from selvage to selvage

LOF = Length of Fabric, cut parallel to selvage

Notes:

• Press fabrics with starch or starch alternative and let dry before cutting to stabilize edges to be cut on the bias (especially fussy-cut on-point squares and strips for stripsets).

• Plan out all fussy cuts needed from a single fabric before beginning to cut.

• Cut pieces in order listed for most efficient use of fabric. It may be helpful to label pieces as you cut to stay organized.

• Handle bias-cut pieces carefully so as not to distort.

From Fabric A, fussy cut:

(1) 103⁄8" x 103⁄8" on-point square around the spiderweb cameo (from a row with 4 cameos)

(1) 9" x 9" on-point square around the eyepatch cameo (from a row with 3 cameos)

(1) 9" x 9" on-point square around the crow cameo

From Fabric B:

(6)* 5" x WOF for outer border

(5) 21⁄8" x WOF for stripsets

(2) 2" x WOF

(6) 13⁄8" x WOF for stripsets

*If joining strips with diagonal seams, cut 1 additional WOF strip

From Fabric C:

(1) 41⁄4" x WOF; subcut

(8) 41⁄4" x 41⁄4", then cut on both diagonals into 32 triangles

(9) 21⁄8" x WOF for stripsets

(6) 13⁄8" x WOF for stripsets

From Fabric D:

(9) 21⁄8" x WOF for stripsets

(2) 13⁄4" x WOF; subcut

(36) 13⁄4" x 13⁄4"

(1) 43⁄4" x WOF; subcut

(2) 43⁄4" x 43⁄4", then cut on both diagonals into 8 triangles

(4) 3" x 3"

From Fabric E:

(8) 21⁄8" x WOF for stripsets

(2) 4 1 ⁄ 2 " x LOF fussy cut along the length, centered vertically on the motifs, for side inner borders

(5) 41⁄2" x remaining WOF, fussy cut across the width, centered horizontally on the motifs, for top/bottom inner border

From Fabric F, fussy cut:

(2) 4" x 4" on-point squares around the spiderweb cameo

(2) 4" x 4" on-point squares around the crow cameo

(2) 4" x 4" on-point squares around the eyepatch cameo

From Fabric G:

(1) 43⁄4" x WOF; subcut

(8) 43⁄4" x 43⁄4", then cut on both diagonals into 32 triangles

(2) 3" x WOF; subcut

(18) 3" x 3", then cut on both diagonals into 72 triangles

(1) 57⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(2) 57⁄8" x 57⁄8", then cut on one diagonal into 4 triangles

(4) 43⁄8" x 43⁄8", then cut on one diagonal into 8 triangles

From Fabric H:

(8) 21⁄2" x WOF for binding

(2) 33⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(18) 33⁄8" x 33⁄8", then cut on one diagonal into 36 triangles

(13) 2" x WOF for inner border*

*Because the 2" strip is folded and then basted"on top of another border strip, not pieced to it, you can cut it narrower if desired. Just remember it will be folded in half, and then lose an additional 1⁄4" in the seam allowance, when determining your ideal cut size.

From Fabric I:

(4) 21⁄4" x WOF for stripsets

Instructions

Notes:

• All seam allowances are 1⁄4" and pieces are sewn right sides together. Test your seam allowance for accuracy to ensure correct finished sizes. Follow black arrows for pressing direction or press seam allowances open unless otherwise stated. Other colored arrows refer to print orientation as noted in the instructions.

• If desired, mark the quarter inch seam allowance on the wrong side of angled pieces at the corners to aid in piecing accuracy.

Block A

1. Place two Fabric B 2" x WOF strips right sides together and press with steam to help keep the strips from slipping as you cut. Move the paired strips together to your cutting mat and cut as one. Trim one end on a 45° angle as shown, then align the 25⁄8" line of a grid ruler with the angle, and cut, to yield 1 and 1 reversed trapezoid pieces. Repeat, cutting (8) total from each strip. (Fig. 1)

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2. Sew a pair of Fabric C 41⁄4" triangles to adjacent sides of the Fabric B trapezoids as shown. Press towards Fabric C. Repeat to make a total of 8 each of Unit A and Unit Ar (reversed). (Fig. 2)

A

Make 8

Unit Ar

Make 8

3. Sew the Units A and Units Ar together along short sides, matching seam intersections, as shown, to make 8 of Unit A/Ar. (Fig. 3)

Make 8

Fig. 1

45° Fabric B: 2 strips RST

Fig. 2 Unit

Fig.

4. Sew a Unit A/Ar to two opposite sides of the Fabric A 9" x 9" fussycut bias square, then sew another pair to the two remaining sides to complete a Block A. Make 2 Block A ( 121⁄2" x 121⁄2" including seam allowances). (Fig. 4)

Family Magic Quilt

6. Sew a Fabric B and Fabric C 13⁄8" x WOF strip together as shown, offsetting the top strip by 13⁄8" to the right, to make an angled strip set. Press open. The stripset should measure 21⁄4" high. Repeat to make a total of 3 identical stripsets. Cut away the left-hand end of each stripset at a 45° angle as shown, and then cut angled units 13⁄4" wide, in the same manner as in step 1. Cut a total of 36 of Unit C - you should be able to cut 12 per strip set (Fig. 6a)

Block B

5. Sew a pair of Fabric G 3" triangles to adjacent sides of a Fabric D 13⁄4" x 13⁄4" square. Repeat to make a total of 36 of Unit B. (Fig. 5)

In the same manner, make 3 angled strip sets offset to the left, and cut 36 of Unit Cr. (Fig. 6b)

Fig. 4

9” x 9”

Block A Make 2

Fig. 5

Fig.

Fig.

7. Sew a Unit C to the left-hand side of a Unit B as shown, matching seam intersections, then add a Unit Cr to the adjacent short side. Sew a Fabric H 33⁄8" triangle to the top. Make 36 of Unit D and set aside for now. Note: 8 of the units will look different in the finished quilt top, as the Fabric H triangles will be hidden by appliquéd Fabric F pieces. (Fig. 7)

Family Magic Quilt

9. Repeat step 8 using a Fabric D, C, and B 21⁄8" x WOF strip, to make 1 angled strip set off set to the right (Fig. 9a), then from opposite ends as shown, make 45° angled cuts at 3" intervals to make 2 each of Unit F and Fr units (Fig. 9b)

8. Sew a Fabric E, D, and C 21⁄8" x WOF strip together into an angled strip set, offset to the right as in step 6. The stripset should measure 5 3⁄ 8" high including seam allowances. Make 2 stripsets, trim the left-hand ends at a 45° angle and cut 14 of Unit E, 3" wide, as shown (Fig. 8a). Repeat to make 2 stripsets offset in the opposite direction and cut 14 of Unit Er as shown. (Fig. 8b).

Fig. 8a Fig. 8b

Fig. 9a

10. Arrange 3 of Unit D and 1 each of Unit E and F as shown. Sew together in sections as shown to make a right-triangle-shaped Unit G. Make 2. Repeat, using Unit Er and Fr, to make 2 of Unit Gr. (Fig. 10)

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11. Sew a Unit G and Unit Gr together along long sides to make a B Block (121⁄2" x 121⁄2"). Make 2 (Fig. 11a). Fold and press raw edges of both Fabric F 4" x 4" spiderweb cameo fussy-cut squares over 1⁄4" to the wrong side. Pin one on each Block B, over area of Fabric H triangles that form a square, so folded edges align with the seam allowances, with motifs oriented as shown in Fig. 11b. Edgestitch around outside of square to complete 1 each appliquéd Block B and Block Br.

Fig. 11a

Fig.

Block C

12. Sew a Unit E to the long side of a Unit D as shown. Repeat with a Unit Er. Make 4 each of Unit H and Unit Hr. (Fig. 12)

Family Magic Quilt

14. Sew a Unit H and Hr together along the short sides as shown. Sew a Unit I to the top. Repeat to make a total of 4 of Triangle Unit C1. (Fig. 14)

13. Sew a pair of Fabric G 43⁄4" triangles to adjacent sides a Fabric D 3" x 3" square. Repeat to make 4 of Unit I. (Fig. 13)

Fig. 13

Fig. 14 Triangle Unit C1 Make 4

15. Sew a Fabric I 21⁄4" x WOF strip and 1 each Fabric E, D, C, and B 21⁄8" x WOF strips together into an angled strip set measuring 83⁄4" high including seam allowances. Make 2 identical stripsets. Repeat step 8 to cut 8 of Unit J, 3" wide. Reserve the remainder of the second stripset to alter for the D Block. Repeat to make 2 more angled strip sets in the opposite direction and cut 8 of Unit Jr, reserving the remainder for Block D. (Fig. 15)

Family Magic Quilt

17. Sew a Fabric D and Fabric G 43⁄4" triangle together along short sides as shown to make a Unit K. Make 4. Repeat, reversing the fabric placement, to make 4 of Unit Kr. (Fig. 17) Fig. 17

16. Sew a Unit J to the left-hand side of a Triangle Unit C1 as shown, then add Unit Jr to the right-hand side. Press. Sew a Fabric G 57⁄8" triangle to the top to complete Triangle Unit C2. Make 4. (Fig. 16) Fig.

18. Sew a Unit K to the top of a Unit E as shown to make a Unit L. Make 4. Repeat with the Units Er and Kr units to make 4 of Unit Lr. (Fig. 18) Fig. 18

Family Magic Quilt

19. Sew a Unit D, Unit L, and Unit J together as shown. Press, then sew a Fabric G 43⁄8" triangle to the Fabric I end of Unit J to complete a Triangle Unit C3. Make 4. Repeat, instead using Units Lr and Jr, to make 4 of Triangle Unit C3r. (Fig. 19)

20. Sew Triangle Unit C3 to the right-hand side of Triangle Unit C2, matching seam allowances. Then add Triangle Unit C3r to the left-hand side to complete a block. Make a total of 4 of Block C (121⁄2" x 241⁄2"). (Fig. 20)

Fig. 19

Fig. 20

Block C Make 4

Fig.

Triangle Unit C2

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Block D

21. From the reserved J/Jr unit stripset, carefully remove the Fabric I and E WOF strips, then sew only the Fabric I strip, offset, back to the Fabric D strip. Repeat step 8 to cut 4 each of Unit M and Unit Mr, 3" wide, from each altered strip set (Fig. 21a).

Sew a Fabric G 43⁄4" triangle to the Fabric E end of all the remaining Units E and Er as shown. Repeat at the Fabric I end with all the remaining Units M and Mr units as shown. (Fig. 21b). Then sew 1 each Units E, Mr, M, and Er together as shown to make a Pentagon Unit D. Make 4. (Fig.

)

21c

Fig. 21c

Pentagon Unit D Make 4

Fig. 21b

Fig. 21a

Fig. 21a

Family Magic Quilt

22. Arrange the remaining 8 of Unit D, all 4 of the Pentagon Unit D, and the Fabric A 103⁄8" x 103⁄8" fussy cut square, with the motif oriented as shown (Fig. 22a). Sew the Units D together in pairs along the short sides. Sew the paired Units D to opposite sides of 2 of the Pentagon Units D, matching seam intersections. Sew the 2 remaining Pentagon Units D to opposite sides of the Fabric A square (Fig. 22b). Then sew the 3 diagonal rows together to complete Block D (241⁄2" square). (Fig. 22c)

Fig. 22a

Fig. 22b

Fig. 22b

Fig. 22c

Quilt Top Assembly

Measure the Quilt Center width and height before cutting and adding borders and adjust border measurements if necessary to match your measurements. However, extra length is included on the inner border to miter the corners, so it does not need to be cut to fit in advance.

23. Refer to the Quilt Center Layout diagram (page 16) to arrange all the Blocks A, C, B, and D in rows, making sure all the fussy-cut Fabric A and Fabric F motifs are right-reading in their final orientation.

24. Sew the blocks together into rows, then sew the rows together to complete the quilt center (481⁄2" square). Press.

25. If desired, staystitch around the entire perimeter of the quilt center within the seam allowances to stabilize the edges and keep any seams from opening up while adding the appliqués. Prep the remaining fussycut Fabric F 4" x 4" squares in the same manner as step 11. Referring to the Quilt Layout diagram (page 17) for placement, appliqué the prepped squares so that they completely cover the on-point squares formed by the joined Fabric H triangles where Block D meets each Block C.

26. Sew all the Fabric H strips together end to end (using diagonal seams if desired to reduce bulk) and cut 8 strips 61" long.

27. Trim only the 2 Fabric E LOF strips to 61" long. If needed, trim a small end amount off the ends of the fussy-cut Fabric E WOF strips so that there is at least 3⁄8" of only the pink background at the short, then join end to end with straight seams. Note: If you also want to match the rainbow order in the motifs, trim and piece as needed to recreate the order. Make 2 top/bottom border strips that finish at least 61" long, making sure all the motifs are oriented in the same direction – the seams will disappear if placed within the background. Extra length has been allowed to miter the corners.

Family Magic Quilt

28. The inner border on this quilt is a flanged border, similar to a flange binding. If you are not familiar with the technique, search for a tutorial online before beginning. This border is made of 3 strips of fabric that are not seamed together but are still treated as one single unit. The flanges are the narrow folded strips on the outer edges that give the border an extra bit of dimension. Fold all the Fabric H border strips in half along the length wrong sides together, so each strip becomes half the cut width, and press well to form a sharp crease. Pin a pair of folded Fabric H strips to the outer edges of a Fabric E border, aligning raw edges, with the fold towards the centers of the Fabric E strip. Baste both edges in places within the seam allowance. Do NOT sew down the folded inner edges of the Fabric H strips. Repeat to make a total of 4 H-E-H borders, 2 of each orientation. (Fig. 23)

29. Refer to the Quilt Layout diagram (page 17) to orient the fussy cut Fabric E motifs in the inner border correctly. Mark the centers of the top and bottom of the quilt center. Repeat to mark the center along the inner edge of the top and bottom H-E-H borders, so that the fussycut Fabric E print will be right reading in both borders (so the inner edge of the top border is along the bottom of the motifs, and the inner edge of the bottom border is along the top edge of the motifs). Pin the top border to the top of the quilt center, matching the centers. Sew, beginning and ending the seam 1⁄4" from the sides of the quilt center. Repeat to add the bottom border. (Fig. 24a)

Family Magic Quilt

30. Press the top and bottom borders away from the quilt center. Repeat the previous step to add the side H-E-H borders so that the fussy-cut Fabric E print will have the top of the motifs right-reading on both the left and right sides (Fig. 24b)

H-E-H Border Right Side Up

Fig. 24a Center

Quilt center Right side up

Fabric H/E/H Top Border Wrong Side up

Fabric H/E/H Bottom Border Wrong Side up

Fig. 24b

31. Fold the quilt top RST diagonally through a corner, making sure the border seams are aligned from the folded corner outwards. Draw a 45° line extending from the fold on the border piece that is on top, then stitch on the line (Fig. 24c). Open the corner up to check from the right side that the miter will lay flat when pressed open, then trim seam allowance to 1⁄4". Repeat the process to miter the remaining 3 corners. Press seam allowances open.

Family Magic Quilt

32. Sew all the Fabric B WOF strips together end to end into 1 continuous strip. Measure the quilt top vertically through the center and cut 2 outer side borders to fit (561⁄2" long). Sew to the sides of the quilt center and press. Repeat to measure, cut, and add the Fabric B outer top and bottom borders (641⁄2" long) Press towards Fabric B to complete the quilt top.

33. Sew together the 2 1⁄ 2" Fabric H binding strips end-to-end using diagonal seams. Press seams open. Press the binding strip in half wrong sides together.

34. Layer backing (wrong side up), batting, and quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers together and quilt as desired. Trim excess batting and backing even with the top after quilting is completed.

35. Leaving an 8" tail of binding, sew the binding to the top of the quilt through all layers matching all raw edges. Miter corners. Stop approximately 12" from where you started. Lay both loose ends of binding flat along quilt edge. Where the loose ends meet, fold them back on themselves and press to form a crease. Using this crease as your stitching line, sew the two open ends of the binding right sides together. Trim seam to 1⁄4" and press open. Finish sewing binding to quilt.

36. Turn the binding to the back of quilt and hand-stitch in place.

Fig. 24c

Family Magic Quilt

Family Magic Quilt

Quilt

Gothic Splendor Quilt

Featuring Nightshade - Déjà Vu by Tula Pink

Collection: NightshadeDéjà Vu by Tula Pink

Technique: Pieced

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Finished Size: 80" x 100" (2.03m x 2.54m)

All possible care has been taken to assure the accuracy of this pattern. We are not responsible for printing errors or the manner in which individual work varies. Please read the instructions carefully before starting this project. If kitting, it is recommended a sample is made to confirm accuracy.

Gothic Splendor Quilt

Project designed by Stacey Day | Tech edited by Alison

M. Schmidt

Fabric Requirements

* includes binding

Backing (Purchased Separately)

44" (1.12m) wide

OR 108" (2.74m) wide

Additional Recommendations

• 100% cotton thread in colors to match

• 88" x 108" (2.23m x 2.74m) batting

(B) (C) (D)

Cutting

WOF = Width of Fabric, cut from selvage to selvage

HST = Half-Square Triangle (bias is on long side of triangle)

QST = Quarter-Square Triangle (bias is on both short sides of triangle)

Press fabrics with starch or starch alternative and let dry before cutting to stabilize edges to be cut on the bias. Handle bias-cut pieces carefully so as not to distort.

From Fabric A, fussy cut:

(3) 101⁄2" x 101⁄2" squares, each one focused on a different motif

From Fabric B, cut:

(4) 111⁄4" x WOF; subcut

(10) 111⁄4" x 111⁄4" squares and then cut twice diagonally to yield

(40) QSTs

(2) 107⁄8" x 107⁄8" squares and then cut once diagonally to yield (4) HSTs

From Fabric C, cut:

(2) 111⁄4" x WOF; subcut

(4) 111⁄4" x 111⁄4" squares and then cut twice diagonally to yield

(16) QSTs

(2) 107⁄8" x 107⁄8" squares and then cut once diagonally to yield (4) HSTs

From Fabric D, cut: (read NOTE below prior to cutting)

(3) 111⁄4" x WOF; subcut

(6) 111⁄4" x 111⁄4" squares and then cut twice diagonally to yield (24) QSTs.

(2) 107⁄8" x 107⁄8" squares and then cut one square once diagonally from bottom left to top right and cut the other square on the opposite diagonal to yield (4) HSTs

Note: The yardage and cutting directions allow for all crescent moons to be placed right-reading due to the directional nature of the fabric, so there will be extra triangles. If you do not plan to keep all the crescent moons right-reading, only cut 2 WOF strips, subcut 4 squares, then cut diagonally into 16 QSTs. The HSTs are still cut the same.

Gothic Splendor Quilt

From Fabric E, cut:

(1) 111⁄4" x WOF; subcut

(3) 111⁄4" x 111⁄4" squares and then cut twice diagonally to yield (12) QSTs

From Fabric F, fussy cut:

(5) 6" x WOF, centered on a row of 8 motifs

(4) 6" x WOF, centered on a row of 7 motifs

From Fabric G:

(1) 111⁄4" x WOF; subcut

(3) 111⁄4" x 111⁄4" squares and then cut twice diagonally to yield

(12) QSTs

(1) 57⁄8" x WOF; subcut

(4) 57⁄8" x 57⁄8 squares and then cut once diagonally to yield (8) HSTs Trim remaining strip down to 51⁄2" high and subcut

(1) 51⁄2" x 101⁄2"

(3) 51⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(4) 51⁄2" x 151⁄2"

(3) 51⁄2" x 101⁄2"

From Fabric H:

(4) 111⁄4" x WOF; subcut

(8) 111⁄4" x 111⁄4" squares and then cut twice diagonally to yield (32) QSTs

(2) 107⁄8" x 107⁄8" squares and then cut once diagonally to yield (4) HSTs

(17) 23⁄4" x WOF for borders

From Fabric I: enough 21⁄2"-wide** bias strips to make at least 375" (9.5m) of bias binding **or your preferred cut width for bias binding

Gothic Splendor Quilt

Instructions

Note: All seam allowances are 1⁄4" and pieces are sewn right sides together. If desired, mark 1⁄4" seam intersections on the wrong side of triangles to improve piecing accuracy. Handle pieces with bias edges carefully. Press after each seam as directed, lifting the iron to move it, rather than sliding it back and forth, which can cause stretching. Arrows on diagrams refer to right-reading orientation of directional prints so all will be right-reading in their final orientation if that is your preference.

1. Sew the Fabric A 101⁄2" x 101⁄2" fussy-cut squares together into a column, with the motifs oriented right-reading top to bottom as shown by the text direction. Press seams towards the bottom. Sew the long side of a Fabric E 111⁄4" triangle to the top and the bottom of the column, using triangles that will keep the directional print oriented right-reading as shown by the arrows. Press towards Fabric A to complete the Quilt Center.

Fig. 1

Gothic Splendor Quilt

Quilt Top Assembly

2. Arrange Fabric C and directional Fabric E 111⁄4" triangles into 1 each Left and Right Side Border 1, following the arrows to use the Fabric E triangles with the correct print orientation. Sew together to complete Border 1 and press to the left when oriented as shown below.

In the same manner, use Fabrics B, C, D, and H to make Borders 2 -7 as shown.

When choosing and placing the Fabric D triangles, refer to the arrows in the middle triangle and place all the triangles in a single border in the same direction for all to be right-reading in the final quilt. Figure 4 ( page 7) and the finished quilt image (cover) may also be helpful.

Press the even-numbered borders to the right and the odd-numbered borders to the left.

Arrows show motif orientation

Left Side Border 1

Make 1

Right Side Border 1

Make 1

Border 4

Make 2 (1 of each D orientation) Border

5

Border 2

Make 2 (1 of each D orientation)

C C D D D D

Border 3

D D D D B B B B B B B B B B Border 6 Make 2 Border 7 Make 2 H H H H H H H H B B B B B B B B B B

Fig. 2

Gothic Splendor Quilt

3. Make Borders 8 and 9 using Fabric G and H 111⁄4" triangles and Fabric G 57⁄8" triangles and 51⁄2"-high rectangles as shown.

Fig.

4. Sew Borders 1-7 to the Quilt Center in numerical order, odd borders on the sides, even borders on the top/bottom, pinning to match seam intersections carefully. After Border 1 is added to the sides, add the Fabric C 10 7⁄ 8" triangles at the corners. Continue adding even (top/bottom) and odd (side) borders as shown, then adding the corresponding fabric 107⁄8" triangles at the corners, ending with Border 7 and the Fabric H triangles.

Gothic Splendor Quilt

Then add Border 8 (the longer remaining triangle border) to the sides and Border 9 to the top and bottom edges.

Fig. 4

Motifs

Gothic Splendor Quilt

Notes:

• Refer to the quilt assembly diagram on p.9 for final border placement.

• After adding Border 9, measure the quilt top vertically and horizontally through the center and adjust the Fabric H border cut lengths and pieced Fabric F border cut lengths to fit if necessary.

5. Sew together all the Fabric H 23⁄4" x WOF strips end to end. Cut the following border strips: (4) 801⁄2" long, (2) 96" long, (2) 65" long

6. Trim the 5 Fabric F strips with 8 cameos evenly from each end to 43" long as shown, making sure there is an equal amount of background on either side of the end cameos. In the same manner, trim the 4 Fabric F strips with 7 cameos evenly from each end to 381⁄2" long as shown.

7. Sew the trimmed Fabric F strips together, even number of cameos to odd, end to end using straight seams, to make one continuous strip of cameos. Subcut (2) 85" long side borders and (2) 76" long top/bottom borders.

8. Sew the Fabric H and F borders to the quilt center as shown in the diagram, sides first, then top and bottom for each round of border strips, pressing towards Fabric H each time, and orienting the faces right-reading following the arrows in the quilt layout diagram (page 9).

Fig.5

Cut (5) 6” x 43”

Cut (5) 6” x 43”

Cut (4) 6” x 38 1/2”

Gothic Splendor Quilt

Finishing

9. Sew together the 21⁄2" Fabric I bias binding strips end-to-end. Press seams open. Press the binding strip in half wrong sides together.

10. Layer backing (wrong side up), batting, and quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers together and quilt as desired. Trim excess batting and backing even with the top after quilting is completed.

11. Leaving an 8" tail of binding, sew the binding to the top of the quilt through all layers matching all raw edges. Miter corners. Stop approximately 12" from where you started. Lay both loose ends of binding flat along quilt edge. Where the loose ends meet, fold them back on themselves and press to form a crease. Using this crease as your stitching line, sew the two open ends of the binding right sides together. Trim seam to 1⁄4" and press open. Finish sewing binding to quilt.

12. Turn the binding to the back of quilt and hand-stitch in place.

Magic Aura Quilt

Featuring Nightshade - Déjà Vu by Tula Pink

Collection: NightshadeDéjà Vu by Tula Pink

Technique: Pieced

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Finished Sizes:

Finished Size: 76" x 901⁄2" (1.93m x 2.30m)

Finished Block Size: 16" x 16" (40.64cm x 40.64cm)

All possible care has been taken to assure the accuracy of this pattern. We are not responsible for printing errors or the manner in which individual work varies. Please read the instructions carefully before starting this project. If kitting, it is recommended a sample is made to confirm accuracy.

Magic Aura Quilt

Project designed by Stacey Day | Tech edited by Alison M. Schmidt

Fabric Requirements

DESIGN COLOR ITEM ID

(A) Coven Oleander PWTP205.OLEANDER 62⁄3 yards (6.10m

(B) Spider Blossom Equinox PWTP206.EQUINOX 3 yards (2.74m)

(C) Raven Lace Oleander PWTP207.OLEANDER F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

(D) Storm Clouds Oleander PWTP208.OLEANDER FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

(E) Apothecary Nerium PWTP209.NERIUM FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

(F) Mini Coven Nerium PWTP210.NERIUM FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

(G) Mini Spider Blossom Nerium PWTP211.NERIUM FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

(H) Fishnet Equinox PWTP212.EQUINOX 1⁄2 yard (0.46m)

(I) Tent Stripe Orchid

PWTP069.ORCHI* 3⁄4 yard (0.69m)

(J) Pom Pom Foxglove PWTP118.FOXGL F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

(K) Pom Pom Iris PWTP118.IRISX F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

(L) Pom Pom Myrtle PWTP118.MYRTL F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

(M) Pom Pom Petunia PWTP118.PETUN FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

(N) Fairy Dust Blush

(O) Fairy Dust Lime

(P) Fairy Dust Mint

(Q) Mineral Agate

(R) Mineral Amethyst

(S) Mineral Aquamarine

(T) Mineral Tourmaline

(U) Wildflower Anemone

(V) Wildflower Dahlia

(W) Wildflower Peony

(X) Wildflower Spring

PWTP133.BLUSH FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP133.LIME F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP133.MINT FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP148.AGATE FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP148.AMETHYST F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP148.AQUAMARINE FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP148.TOURMALINE F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP149.ANEMONE FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP149.DAHLIA F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP149.PEONY FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP149.SPRING F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

* includes binding continued...

(A) (B) (C) (D)

Fabric Requirements (continued...)

(Y) Hexy Chameleon PWTP150.CHAMELEON F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

(Z) Hexy Deep Sea

PWTP150.DEEPSEA FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

(AA) Hexy Juniper PWTP150.JUNIPER F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

(AB) Hexy Thistle

(AC) Hexy Rainbow Peacock

PWTP150.THISTLE F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP151.PEACOCK FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

(AD) Tiny Dots Candy PWTP185.CANDY FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

(AE) Tiny Dots Meadow

(AF) Tiny Dots Opal

(AG) Tiny Dots Peacock

(AH) Tiny Stripes Misty

(AI) Tiny Stripes Moonglow

(AJ) Tiny Stripes Songbird

Backing (Purchased Separately)

44" (1.12m) wide

PWTP185.MEADOW F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP185.OPAL F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP185.PEACOCK FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP186.MISTY FQ (45.72cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP186.MOONGLOW F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

PWTP186.SONGBIRD F8 (22.86cm x 53.34cm)

Magic Aura Quilt

Storm Clouds Oleander

PWTP208.OLEANDER 9 yards (8.23m)* OR 108" (2.74m) wide

Rainbow Hexy XL Ink

QBTP012.INK 3 yards (2.74m)

*9 yards of 44" backing allows for 3 WOF strips with the directional print right-reading in the backing. If you can piece a wide-enough backing with only 1 seam (i.e., 2 WOF strips), 53/4 yards will be enough.

Additional Recommendations

• 100% cotton thread in colors to match

• 84" x 99" (2.13m x 2.51m) batting

(Y) (Z) (AA) (AB)

(AC) (AD) (AE) (AF)

(AG) (AH) (AI) (AJ)

Cutting

WOF = Width of Fabric

From Fabric A, fussy cut:

(18) 91⁄2" x 91⁄2" on-point squares, each around a cameo motif (6 of each motif)

From Fabric B, cut:

(3) 237⁄8" x 237⁄8" squares; cut on both diagonals to make (12) quarter-square triangles (QSTs)

(2) 121⁄4" x 121⁄4" squares, cut on one diagonal to make (4) half-square triangles (HSTs)

(5) 41⁄2" x WOF for side borders

From Fabrics C and K, cut:

(4) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2"

(2) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2"

From Fabrics D, U, W, and AG, cut:

(6) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2"

(3) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2"

From Fabrics E, N, S, and AH, cut:

(12) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2"

From Fabrics F, M, AC, and AD cut:

(9) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2"

(3) 21⁄2" x 41⁄2"

From Fabrics G, P, Q, and Z, cut:

(6) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2"

(3) 21⁄2" x 41⁄2"

(3) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2"

Magic Aura Quilt

From Fabric H, cut:

(9) 11⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(18) 11⁄2" x 101⁄2"

(18) 11⁄2" x 91⁄2"

TIP: For most efficient use of fabric, cut 2 of each length needed from each WOF strip.

From Fabric I, cut: enough 21⁄2"-wide** bias strips for 350" (8.9m) bias binding **or your preferred cut width

From Fabrics J and R, cut:

(6) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2"

(2) 21⁄2" x 41⁄2"

From Fabric L:

(2) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2"

(2) 21⁄2" x 41⁄2"

From Fabric O, X, Y, AE, and AI:

(4) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2"

From Fabrics T and V, cut:

(8) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2"

From Fabric AA, cut:

(2) 21⁄2" x 41⁄2"

(2) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2"

From Fabrics AB and AF, cut:

(4) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2"

(2) 21⁄2" x 41⁄2"

(2) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2"

From Fabric AJ, cut:

(2) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2"

Instructions

Note: All seam allowances are 1⁄4" and pieces are sewn right sides together. Press seam allowances in the direction shown by the arrows.

1. Referring to the table below for fabrics and Figure 1 for cut size and placement, sew pieces together in numerical order to make the quantities of A Units listed below (18 total).

Magic Aura Quilt

2. Referring to the table below and Figure 2 for fabrics and placement, use the 21⁄2" x 61⁄2" pieces to make the quantities of B Units listed below (18 total).

Magic Aura Quilt

3. With the fussy cut Fabric A squares oriented with the top of the motif as indicated by the white arrow in Figure 3, sew the Fabric H 11⁄2" x 91⁄2" strip to the top edge. Then add the Fabric H 11⁄2" x 101⁄2" strip to the adjacent side to complete a C Unit. Repeat to make 18 total.

4. Arrange an A1 Unit with two B1 Units and a C Unit as shown in Figure 4a. Sew units into rows, then sew rows together to complete a Block 1. Repeat, using the motifs listed in Figure 4b, to make a total of 18 Blocks 1-7 as shown. Make (3) each of the odd numbered blocks, and (2) each of the even numbered blocks.

Fig.

Fig.

Magic Aura Quilt

Quilt Top Assembly

Note: Follow the Quilt Layout diagram while assembling the quilt. Measure the Quilt Center width and height before cutting and adding borders and adjust border measurements if necessary to match your measurements.

5. Arrange the Fabric B triangles and all of Blocks 1-7 together into diagonal rows. Sew together into rows (there will be 2 extra Fabric B QSTs not used). Press open or press all seams in a row in the same direction, and alternate pressing direction from row to row so seams will nest.

6. Sew the rows together, then add the remaining 2 Fabric B HSTs to the last 2 corners to complete the quilt center. If needed, trim to square up 1⁄4" away from the points of the outermost blocks.

7. Sew the Fabric B 41⁄2" x WOF strips together end to end. Cut (2) side borders to fit the length of the completed quilt center. Sew to the sides of the quilt center and press towards borders to complete the quilt top.

Finishing

8. Sew together the 21⁄2" Fabric I bias binding strips end-to-end. Press seams open. Press the binding strip in half wrong sides together.

9. Layer backing (wrong side up), batting, and quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers together and quilt as desired. Trim excess batting and backing even with the top after quilting is completed.

10. Leaving an 8" tail of binding, sew the binding to the top of the quilt through all layers matching all raw edges. Miter corners. Stop approximately 12" from where you started. Lay both loose ends of binding flat along quilt edge. Where the loose ends meet, fold them back on themselves and press to form a crease. Using this crease as your stitching line, sew the two open ends of the binding right sides together. Trim seam to 1⁄4" and press open. Finish sewing binding to quilt.

11. Turn the binding to the back of quilt and hand-stitch in place.

Nightshade Skelly Wall Hanging

Featuring Nightshade - Déjà Vu by Tula Pink

Collection: NightshadeDéjà Vu by Tula Pink

Technique:

Raw-edge fusible appliqué, Needle-turn hand appliqué, or Machine turned-edge appliqué

Skill Level: Intermediate

Finished Size: 34" x 42" (86.36cm x 106.68cm)

All possible care has been taken to assure the accuracy of this pattern. We are not responsible for printing errors or the manner in which individual work varies. Please read the instructions carefully before starting this project. If kitting it is recommended a sample is made to confirm accuracy.

Project designed by Stacey Day | Tech edited by Alison M.

Fabric Requirements (see page 3 for fabric swatches)

Nightshade Skelly Wall Hanging

Schmidt

Additional Recommendations

• 100% cotton thread in colors to match

• 40" x 48" (1.02m x 1.22m) batting

• Template material (or for fusible method, a light box or surface for tracing)

• Optional for all appliqué methods: 1 yard clear vinyl or 45"- wide lightweight sew-in interfacing such as Pattern Ease or Pellon Easy Pattern, or large sheets of tracing paper for appliqué placement pattern

• Optional for fusible raw-edge appliqué method: 4 yards paper-backed fusible web, such as Pellon 805 Wonder-Under

• Optional for machine turned-edge appliqué: 4 yards lightweight interfacing, such as Pellon 911F (fusible) or Pellon PLS36 (sew-in)

(I) Tula Pink Solid / Celestial CSFSESS.CELESTIAL 11⁄2 yards (1.37m

*binding included

Backing (Purchased Separately)

44" (111.76cm) wide

Spider Blossom / Equinox

PWTP206.EQUINOX 11⁄2 yards (1.37m)

Prep

1. The full-size Appliqué Placement Pattern will be used to place the prepped appliqués without any need to measure. Either send the copy shop version (download from FreeSpirit Fabrics Projects page) to a copy shop or online print service to be printed at full-size/100%, or print the appliqué placement pattern (pages 12-30) included here on 81⁄2" x 11" paper. For 81⁄2" x 11" pages, tape together as indicated. If desired, trace the placement pattern onto a translucent material like tracing paper, lightweight sew-in interfacing, or vinyl (use a dry-erase marker if you want to re-use the vinyl for a different project) to make it even easier to place the prepped appliqués precisely.

2. Print the Template Patterns (pages 7-11) at 100%/actual size.

3. Trace the individual template patterns onto your preferred template material and cut them out on the traced line. For fusible appliqué, skip this step if you plan to trace the shapes directly onto the fusible web. Mark the template number and the fabric letters as listed on the Fabric Layout Diagram (page 5) onto each template. Flip the template over to trace a reversed shape as the quilt is symmetrical.

Cutting

WOF = Width of Fabric

From Fabric I, cut: (1) 38" x 46" background rectangle

Nightshade Skelly Wall Hanging

Choose your preferred method of appliqué and follow the directions on the following page to cut and prep the pieces listed in the Appliqué Cutting table. For fabrics with many pieces, you may want to lay out all the template patterns first to check placement before cutting. For all shapes other than circles and hearts, you will need 1 and 1 reversed (1 + 1 r) of each template listed per fabric – any variations are listed in parentheses. Some shapes may be challenging for methods other than fusible appliqué so you may want to practice with scraps first. You can also mix methods based on the shape.

Appliqué Cutting

Tula Pink Nightshade Déjà vu

Fabric

Templates - For directional prints (Fabrics A, D, E, and F), refer to the Fabric Layout Diagram (p. 5) if you want to fussy cut or keep prints right-reading. (1+1r of each unless a different quantity is listed in parentheses)

Fusible Raw-edge Appliqué:

1. Use a pencil to trace each template marked (right) side down on the paper side of the fusible web as many times as needed for each fabric as shown on the Fabric Layout Diagram, leaving about a 1⁄2" between pieces. For the reversed shapes, place the template marked (right) side up so that the finished shape will be mirrored. If it’s simpler for you, just make reversed templates as needed. It can be helpful to group pieces to be cut from the same fabric together on the web when tracing. Make sure to mark the template number on each fusible piece as many look similar.

2. Cut the fusible web apart roughly 1 4" from the line. If you’ve grouped them by fabric, just cut around each group.

3. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse the web to the wrong side of the corresponding fabrics, then cut out on the drawn line. Leave the paper backing in place until ready to place the appliqués on the background.

Machine-turned Appliqué:

1. Repeat Step 1 for Fusible Raw-edge Appliqué, tracing onto interfacing instead (if using fusible interfacing, trace onto the non-fusible side). Work one fabric at a time.

2. Place the traced shapes, tracing side up, on top of the corresponding fabrics, right side up. Pin together, stitch on the marked line, and cut out through both layers 1⁄4" from stitching line. Trim corners and clip and notch curves, making sure not to cut the stitching.

3. Carefully cut a small slit in the interfacing and turn the piece right side out. If using fusible interfacing, use a turning tool, or for sew-in interfacing, an iron on low to gently press out any corners and smooth out curves.

Needle-turn Hand Appliqué:

1. Use a chalk pencil that can easily be removed from the fabric to trace the templates, right side up, as many times as needed for each fabric as shown on the Fabric Layout Diagram onto the right side of the corresponding fabrics. Trace reversed shapes by turning the template marked-side down before tracing. Leave at least 3 4" between shapes on the same fabric.

2. Cut out the shapes, adding about 3 16" (or your desired seam allowance) from the traced lines.

3. Finger press along the traced line to crease (the line should not be visible from the top once creased). This makes the edge easier to turn under when hand stitching.

Construction

1. Fold the background in half vertically and horizontally and crease to mark guidelines.

2. Use the full-size placement pattern and the Fabric Layout diagram (page 5), matching the dashed center lines to the creased background, to place the prepped appliqués onto the background, starting with pieces 1, 2, 3, and both 35s along the vertical center line. Fuse following manufacturer’s instructions or glue, pin, or thread baste in place as needed for your chosen method.

3. Appliqué in place using your desired technique. For fusible raw-edge appliqué, you can skip this step if you plan to quilt dense straight lines over the entire piece. Blanket stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch in a coordinating thread works well for machine-finishing.

4. Continue placing and appliquéing pieces a few at a time, following the layering shown in the placement pattern, until all have been appliquéd. If shapes are part of a mirrored pair, place both in the same step.

5. Press from the wrong side and square up to 341⁄2" x 421⁄2".

Nightshade Skelly Wall Hanging

Finishing

6. Sew the 2 1 ⁄ 2 " x WOF Fabric H strips end-to-end using diagonal seams to make one continuous piece. Press the seams open. Press the binding strip in half wrong sides together.

7. Layer the backing (wrong side up), batting, and quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers together and quilt as desired. Trim excess batting and backing even with the quilt top after quilting is completed.

8. Leaving an 8" tail of binding, sew binding to top of quilt through all layers matching all raw edges. Miter corners. Stop approximately 12" from where you started. Lay both loose ends of binding flat along quilt edge. Where these two loose ends meet, fold them back on themselves and press to form a crease. Using this crease as your stitching line, sew the two open ends of the binding together right sides together. Trim seam to 1⁄4" and press open. Finish sewing binding to quilt.

9. Turn the binding to the back of the quilt and hand stitch in place.

Fabric Layout Diagram

Example of how pages 12-30 should be arranged for the full-size appliqué placement pattern.

Row 1 (1,2,3)

Row 2 (1,2,3,4,5)

Row 3 (1,2,3,4,5)

Row 4 (1,2,3)

Row 5 (1,2,3)

This square should measure 1" x 1" (2.54cm x 2.54cm) when printed.

Template 29

Template 32

Template 31

Template 18

Template 30

8 Template 9

This square should measure 1" x 1" (2.54cm x 2.54cm) when printed.

This square should measure 1" x 1" (2.54cm x 2.54cm) when printed.

This square should measure 1" x 1" (2.54cm x 2.54cm) when printed.

This square should measure 1" x 1" (2.54cm x 2.54cm) when printed.

Featuring Nightshade - Déjà Vu by Tula Pink

Set Sail Quilt

Finished Size: 69" x 90" (1.75m x 2.29m)

Project designed by Julie Herman - Jaybird Quilts

Purchase pattern at jaybirdquilts.com

Technique: Pieced, with Super Sidekick Ruler | Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

freespiritfabrics.com

Set Sail Quilt

Fabric Requirements

* includes binding

Backing (Purchased Separately)

If kitting, refer to the final pattern for yardage amounts, it is recommended that a sample is made to confirm accuracy.

freespiritfabrics.com

(A)

(B)

(C)

(D) (E)

(F) (G) (H)

(I) Backing 44" Backing 108"

The Still Room

Quilt

Featuring Nightshade - Deja Vu by Tula Pink

Collection:

Nightshade - Deja Vu by Tula Pink

Technique: Pieced

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Finished Project Size: 68" x 86" (172.72cm x 218.44cm)

Finished Size:

Finished Block Sizes: 9" x 18", 8" x 18", 10" x 18", 5" x 18", 7" x 18", and 11" x 18"

All possible care has been taken to assure the accuracy of this pattern. We are not responsible for printing errors or the manner in which individual work varies. Please read the instructions carefully before starting this project. If kitting, it is recommended a sample is made to confirm accuracy.

The Still Room Quilt

M. Schmidt

Fabric Requirements

Project designed by Tula Pink | Tech edited by Alison

The Still Room Quilt

Fabric Requirements (continued...)

Backing (Purchased Separately) 44" (1.12m) wide

(2.74m) wide

Additional Recommendations

• 100% cotton thread in colors to match

• 76" x 94" (1.93m x 2.39m) quilt batting

(U) (V) (W)

The Still Room Quilt

Cutting

WOF = Width of Fabric

Notes:

• Cut sizes are listed smaller x larger unless fabric is a directional print, in which case cut sizes are listed as width x height.

• Fussy cutting: Plan all the desired fussy cuts from Fabric A and Fabric E before cutting.

• The 4 large cameos needed from Fabric A can all be cut from 1 row of 4 cameos, but yardage amount listed allows for a second row of cameos in case of a cutting error or for additional choices of motif repeats.

• Group Fabrics I, V, and W together and treat as one fabric, called ‘Background Fabric’ below in the cut list and in the instructions. For added variety in the background, each time the instructions list another group of WOF strips, switch background fabric as you cut (for example, cut the first 7" x WOF from Fabric I, the second from Fabric V, and the third from Fabric W, or alternate as you desire), and subcut as directed

• Alternate fabrics randomly throughout the piecing process for a scrappy background.

• TIP: To stay organized, label cut pieces with the final Unit or Block number listed in brackets after the cut size. For example, [U1] means piece is used for Unit 1, and [B4] means piece is used for Block 4 (but not part of a unit). Keep cut pieces grouped either by fabric or by Unit/Block label.

Fabric A, fussy cut:

(4) 81⁄2" x 101⁄2" rectangles, centered on cameo* motifs [U11]

*2 eyepatch motifs and 1 each spiderweb and crow motifs if making like quilt shown

Fabric B, cut:

(1) 101⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(1) 51⁄2" x 101⁄2" [B4]

(1) 41⁄2" x 101⁄2" [U16]

(1) 71⁄2" x 71⁄2" [U26]

(8) 21⁄2" x WOF for outer border

Fabrics C, D, and H, cut from each:

(1) 101⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(1) 51⁄2" x 101⁄2" [B4]

(1) 41⁄2" x 101⁄2" [U16]

(1) 71⁄2" x 71⁄2" [U26]

Fabric E, fussy cut:

(4) 41⁄2" squares, centered on cameo* motifs [U5]

*2 spiderweb motifs and 1 each eyepatch and crow motifs if making like quilt shown

Fabric F, cut:

(2) 21⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(32) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2" [U4]

Fabric G, cut:

(1) 31⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(4) 31⁄2" x 31⁄2" [U2]

(4) 41⁄2" x 21⁄2" [U13]

(4) 21⁄2" x 11⁄2" [U8]

(1) 21⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(16) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2" [4: U7, 12: U28]

Fabric G, cut (continued):

(1) 11⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(4) 31⁄2" x 11⁄2" [U23]

(4) 21⁄2" x 11⁄2" [U18]

(4) 11⁄2" x 11⁄2" [U22]

(9) 21⁄2" x WOF for binding

Background* Fabric (Fabrics I, V, and W), cut:

*SEE CUTTING NOTE AT LEFT

(1) 7" x WOF; subcut

(1) 7" x 101⁄2" [B3]

(1) 71⁄2" x 61⁄2" [B5]

(2) 31⁄2" x 61⁄2" [U3]

(1) 41⁄2" x 41⁄2" [U17]

(1) 7" x WOF; subcut

(1) 7" x 101⁄2" [B3]

(1) 71⁄2" x 61⁄2" [B5]

(1) 41⁄2" x 41⁄2" [U17]

(1) 31⁄2" x 111⁄2" [B6]

(1) 31⁄2" x 61⁄2" [U3]

(1) 7" x WOF; subcut

(2) 7" x 101⁄2" [B3]

(2) 71⁄2" x 61⁄2" [B5]

(1) 41⁄2" x 41⁄2" [U17]

(1) 41⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(5) 41⁄2" x 41⁄2" [U17]

(4) 21⁄2" x 41⁄2" [U15]

(1) 31⁄2" x 61⁄2" [U3]

(2) 31⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(2) 31⁄2" x 111⁄2" [B6]

(8) 31⁄2" x 31⁄2" [4 each: U2, U8]

(4) 3" x 31⁄2" [U10]

(2) 11⁄2" x 31⁄2" [U22]

(2) 31⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(11) 31⁄2" x 31⁄2" [4: U8, 7: U12]

(6) 3" x 31⁄2" [4: U10, 2: U14]

Background* Fabric (Fabrics I, V, and W), cut

(continued):

(2) 31⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(1) 31⁄2" x 111⁄2" [B6]

(9) 31⁄2" x 31⁄2" [1: U12, 8: U27]

(6) 3" x 31⁄2" [U14]

(5) 21⁄2" x WOF for sashing and inner border

(4) 21⁄2" x WOF for inner border

(3*) 21⁄2" x WOF for inner border

*Cut 1 additional if joining with diagonal seams.

(8) 21⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(10) 21⁄2" x 181⁄2" for row sashing

(2) 21⁄2" x 13" [U32]

(2) 21⁄2" x 71⁄2" [U3]

(4) 21⁄2" x 51⁄2" [U3]

(2) 21⁄2" x 41⁄2" [U15]

(2) 21⁄2" x 3" [U20]

(20) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2" [4: U2; 8 each: U3, U12]]

(2) 2" x 21⁄2" [U25]

(5) 21⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(4) 21⁄2" x 181⁄2" for row sashing

(1) 21⁄2" x 13" [U32]

(1) 21⁄2" x 71⁄2" [U3]

(2) 21⁄2" x 41⁄2" [U15]

(4) 21⁄2" x 3" [U20]

(21) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2" [8 each: U13, U17; 5: U18]

(2) 2" x 21⁄2" [U25]

(5) 21⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(6) 21⁄2" x 181⁄2" for row sashing

(1) 21⁄2" x 13" [U32]

(1) 21⁄2" x 71⁄2" [U3]

(2) 21⁄2" x 3" [U20]

(19) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2" [3: U18, 8 each: U21, U27]

(4) 2" x 21⁄2" [U25]

The Still Room Quilt

(1) 11⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(1) 11⁄2" x 81⁄2" [B2]

(2) 11⁄2" x 21⁄2" [U23]

(14) 11⁄2" x 11⁄2" [U17]

(1) 11⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(2) 11⁄2" x 81⁄2" [B2]

(2) 11⁄2" x 31⁄2" [U22]

(2) 11⁄2" x 21⁄2" [U23]

(1) 11⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(1) 11⁄2" x 81⁄2" [B2]

(4) 11⁄2" x 31⁄2" [U22]

(10) 11⁄2" x 11⁄2" [8:U6, 2:U7]

(4) 11⁄2" x 21⁄2" [U23]

(4) 1" x WOF; subcut

(4) 1" x 13" [U32]

(4) 1" x 81⁄2" [U6]

(6) 1" x 21⁄2" [U9]

(4) 1" x 2" [U19]

(4) 1" x 11⁄2" [U29]

(24) 1" x 1" [U31]

(3) 1" x WOF; subcut

(2) 1" x 13" [U32]

(2) 1" x 81⁄2" [U6]

(10) 1" x 21⁄2" [2: U9, 8: U28]

(6) 1" x 2" [4: U19, 2: U24]

(2) 1" x 11⁄2" [U29]

(24) 1" x 1" [U1]

(2) 1" x WOF; subcut

(2) 1" x 13" [U32]

(2) 1" x 81⁄2" [U6]

(6) 1" x 2" [U24]

(2) 1" x 11⁄2" [U29]

(24) 1" x 1" [U1]

Fabrics J, K, L, and M, cut from each:

(1) 31⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(1) 31⁄2" x 101⁄2" [U16]

(1) 31⁄2" x 51⁄2" [U21]

(1) 31⁄2" x 2" [U25]

(1) 21⁄2" x 7" [U30]

(1) 21⁄2" x 5" [U30]

(2) 21⁄2" x 3" [1 each: U10, U30]

(1) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2" [U15]

(2) 11⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(1) 11⁄2" x 81⁄2" [U11]

(1) 11⁄2" x 71⁄2" [U26]

(1) 11⁄2" x 3" [U20]

(3) 1" x 41⁄2" [1 each: U9, U14, U24]

(3) 1" x 31⁄2" [U29]

(1) 1" x 21⁄2" [U19]

Fabrics N, O, P, and Q, cut from each:

(1) 21⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(1) 21⁄2" x 101⁄2" [U30]

(1) 21⁄2" x 81⁄2" [U30]

(1) 21⁄2" x 61⁄2" [U30]

Fabrics R, S, T, and U, cut from each:

(1) 21⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(4) 21⁄2" x 41⁄2" [U4]

(7) 21⁄2" x 21⁄2" [3 each: U1, 4 each: U5]

(1) 11⁄2" x WOF; subcut

(1) 11⁄2" x 91⁄2" [B1]

Instructions

Notes:

• Use an accurate 1 ⁄ 4 " seam allowance throughout - you may want to test your seam allowance with scraps before piecing all your blocks to make sure they come out to the correct finished size.

• Sew all pieces with right sides together and raw edges even using matching thread. Press after each seam in your preferred direction.

• Unit and block dimensions are listed as width x height including seam allowances.

Stitch-and-Flip Corners:

For all units with diagonal seams, follow this stitch and flip method:

a - Align marked square on corner, right sides together, with the line oriented as shown in the diagram.

b - Stitch along the marked line.

c -Trim seam allowances to 1⁄4". Press corner out.

Block 1 Assembly

1. Draw a diagonal line across the wrong side of 44 Background Fabric 21⁄2" squares [U2, 12, 13, 17, 21, and 27], 20 Background Fabric 31⁄2" squares [U2, 12, and 27], and all the Fabric F 21⁄2" squares and Background Fabric 1", 11⁄2", and 41⁄2" squares. These marked squares will be used throughout

Blocks 1 - 6.

The Still Room Quilt

2. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method detailed at left to add Background Fabric 1" squares to all 4 corners of a Fabric U 21⁄2" square as shown. Make a total of 3 Unit 1 (21⁄2" square unfinished). Note: Diagram is shown at a larger scale to show detail.

4. Arrange 3 Unit 1, 2 each Background Fabric 21⁄2" squares and 21⁄2" x 51⁄2" pieces, 1 each Background Fabric 21⁄2" x 71⁄2" and 31⁄2" x 61⁄2" pieces, and 1 Unit 2 in 4 columns as shown. Stitch into columns. Sew columns together to complete Unit 3 (91⁄2" square unfinished).

3. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method to add a Background Fabric 31⁄2" square to the upper-left corner of a Fabric G 3 1⁄ 2" square. Then add a Background Fabric 21⁄2" square to the opposite corner to complete Unit 2 (31⁄2" square unfinished). Fig. 3

5. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method to add Fabric F 21⁄2" squares to both ends of a Fabric U 21⁄2" x 41⁄2" rectangle as shown. Make a total 4 Unit 4 (21⁄2" x 41⁄2" unfinished).

Fig. 1

Fig. 1 Bg

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 2 Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 3 Unit

Fig.

Fig.

Fig.

6. Arrange 4 Unit 4, 4 Fabric U 21⁄2" squares, and 1 fussy-cut Fabric E 4 1 ⁄ 2 " square*, noting orientation of the cameo motif, in 3 rows as shown. Stitch into rows. Sew rows together to complete Unit 5 (81⁄2" square unfinished). Fig. 6 *If making like quilt shown, use the crow motif here.

The Still Room Quilt

8. Stitch a Fabric U 11⁄2" x 91⁄2" piece between Units 3 and 6 to complete Block 1a (91⁄2" x 181⁄2" unfinished). Fig. 8

9. Referring to Steps 2-8, make 1 each Blocks 1b-1d with the different Fabric E motifs shown and Fabrics R, S, and T in place of Fabric U. Fig. 9

7. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method to add Background Fabric 11⁄2" squares on both bottom corners of Unit 5 as shown. Then add Background Fabric 1" x 81⁄2" strips on right and left sides of unit to complete Unit 6 (91⁄2" x 81⁄2" unfinished). Fig. 7

Fig. 6 Fig. 6

Unit 5 - Make 1

Fig. 7 Bg Bg U5

Fig. 7

Unit 6 - Make 1 Bg Bg

Fig. 8

Block 1a - Make 1

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

Fig. 9

Block 1b - Make 1

Block 1d - Make 1

Block 1c - Make 1

Block 2 Assembly

10. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method to add Background Fabric 11⁄2" squares on 2 opposite corners of a Fabric G 21⁄2" square as shown. Repeat on remaining corners to complete Unit 7 (21⁄2" square unfinished). Note: Diagram is shown at a larger scale to show detail.

The Still Room Quilt

12. Stitch a Fabric M 1" x 41⁄2" piece between 2 Background Fabric 1" x 21⁄2" pieces to complete Unit 9 (8 1 ⁄ 2 " x 1" unfinished).

Fig. 12

Fig. 12

MBgBg

15. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method to add Background Fabric 3 1⁄ 2" squares to both top corners and Background Fabric 2 1⁄ 2" squares to both bottom corners of Unit 11 to complete Unit 12 (81⁄2" x 111⁄2" unfinished). Fig. 15

Unit 9 - Make 1

13. Stitch a Fabric M 21⁄2" x 3" piece between 2 Background Fabric 3" x 31⁄2" pieces to complete Unit 10 (8 1⁄ 2" x 3" unfinished).

Fig. 13

Fig. 13

11. Stitch a Fabric G 11⁄2" x 21⁄2" piece to the bottom of Unit 7. Sew Background Fabric 31⁄2" squares to opposite sides as shown to complete Unit 8 (8 1⁄2" x 31⁄2" unfinished).

Fig. 11

MBgBg

Unit 10 - Make 1

-

Fig. 11

Fig. 11

U7 G BgBg

Unit 8 - Make 1

14. Stitch a Fabric M 11⁄2" x 81⁄2" strip to the top of a fussy-cut Fabric A 8 1⁄ 2" x 10 1⁄ 2 " rectangle*, noting orientation of the cameo motif, to complete Unit 11 (81⁄2" x 111⁄2" unfinished). Fig. 14

*If making like quilt shown, use the eyepatch motif here.

14 Fig. 14

16. Arrange a Background Fabric 11⁄2" x 81⁄2" strip, Units 8 – 10, and Unit 12 in a column. Stitch together to complete Block 2a (81⁄2" x 181⁄2" unfinished). Fig. 16

Unit 11 - Make 1

Fig. 10

Fig.10 Bg

Fig. 12

Fig. 13

Fig.

Fig. 15

Fig. 15

Unit

Fig. 16

Fig. 16

17. Referring to Steps 10-16, make 1 each Blocks 2b-2d with the different Fabric A motifs shown and Fabrics J , K, and L in place of Fabric M.

Fig. 17

Fig. 17

Fig. 17

The Still Room Quilt

19. Sew a 1" x 4 " piece to the bottom of Unit 13. Sew Background Fabric 3" x 31 " pieces to opposites sides as shown to complete Unit 14 (10 " x 3" unfinished).

Fig. 19

Fig. 19

Fig. 19

Unit 13

BgBg L

Unit 14 - Make 1

20. Stitch a Fabric L 2 1⁄ 2" square between 2 Background Fabric 2 1⁄ 2" x 4 1⁄ 2 " pieces to complete Unit 15 (101⁄2" x 21⁄2" unfinished).

Fig. 20

Block 2b - Make 1 Block 2d - Make 1 Block 2c - Make 1

Block 3 Assembly

18. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method to add Background Fabric 11⁄2" squares on both bottom corners of a Fabric G 21⁄2" x 41⁄2" rectangle as shown to complete Unit 13 ( 4 1⁄ 2" x 2 1⁄ 2 " unfinished). Note: Diagram is shown at a larger scale to show detail.

Fig. 18

Fig. 18 G BgBg G BgBg

22. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method to add Background Fabric 41⁄2" squares to both top corners and Background Fabric 2 1⁄ 2" squares on both bottom corners of Unit 16 as shown to complete Unit 17 (101⁄2" x 71⁄2" unfinished). Fig. 22

Fig. 20

Fig. 20 Unit 15 - Make 1

BgBg L

21. Sew a Fabric L 31⁄2" x 101⁄2" piece lengthwise to a Fabric H 41⁄2" x 101⁄2" piece to complete Unit 16 (101⁄2" x 71⁄2" unfinished). Fig. 21

23. Arrange a Background Fabric 7" x 10 1⁄2" rectangle and Units 14, 15, and 17 in a column. Stitch together to complete Block 3a (101⁄2" x 181⁄2" unfinished). Fig. 23

H

Fig. 21 Fig. 21

Fig. 22 Fig. 22

Fig. 23 Fig. 23

24. Referring to Steps 18-23, make 1 each Blocks 3b-3d with the fabrics noted in place of Fabrics H and L, and making sure to orient directional motifs right-reading in Unit 16. Fig. 24

Fig. 24

Fig. 24

The Still Room Quilt

26. Stitch a Fabric J 1" x 21⁄2" piece between 2 Background Fabric 1" x 2" pieces to complete Unit 19 (5 1⁄ 2" x 1" unfinished).

Fig. 26

Fig. 26 Fig. 26

BgBgJ

Unit 19 - Make 1

27. Stitch a Fabric J 11⁄2" x 3" piece between 2 Background Fabric 21⁄2" x 3" pieces to complete Unit 20 (5 1⁄ 2" x 3" unfinished).

Fig. 27

Block 4 Assembly

25. Sew a Fabric G 11⁄2" x 21⁄2" piece between 2 Background Fabric 21⁄2" squares to complete Unit 18 (51⁄2" x 21⁄2" unfinished).

Fig. 25

Fig. 25 Fig. 25

Unit 18 - Make 1 BgBg G

29. Arrange Units 18-21 and a Fabric C 51⁄2" x 101⁄2" piece in a column. Stitch together to complete Block 4a (51⁄2" x 181⁄2" unfinished).

Fig. 29

Fig. 27

Fig. 27

BgBgJ

Unit 20 - Make 1

28. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method to add Background Fabric 2 1⁄ 2" squares on both top corners of a Fabric J 31⁄2" x 51⁄2" piece oriented as shown to complete Unit 21 (51⁄2" x 31⁄2" unfinished).

Fig. 28

Fig. 28

Fig. 28

Bg Bg J BgBg J

Unit 21 - Make 1

Fig. 29 Fig. 29

Block 4a - Make 1

30. Referring to Steps 25-29, make 1 each Blocks 4b-4d with the fabrics noted in place of Fabrics C and J, making sure to orient directional motifs right-reading in Fabric D.

Fig. 30

Fig. 30

The Still Room Quilt

32. Stitch a Fabric G 11⁄2" x 31⁄2" piece between 2 Background Fabric 11⁄2" x 21⁄2" pieces to complete Unit 23 (71⁄2" x 11⁄2" unfinished).

Fig. 32

Fig. 30

Block 4b - Make 1 Block 4d - Make 1 Block 4c - Make 1

Block 5 Assembly

31. Sew a Fabric G 1 1⁄ 2" square between 2 Background Fabric 1 1⁄ 2" x 3 1⁄ 2 " pieces to complete Unit 22 (71⁄2" x 11⁄2" unfinished).

Fig. 31

Fig. 31

Fig. 31

Unit 22 - Make 1 BgBgG

35. Sew a Fabric K 11⁄2" x 71⁄2" piece to the top of a Fabric B 71⁄2" square to complete Unit 26 (71⁄2" x 81⁄2" unfinished).

Fig. 35

BgBgG

Unit 23 - Make 1

33. Sew a Fabric K 1" x 41⁄2" piece between 2 Background Fabric 1" x 2" pieces to complete Unit 24 (7 1⁄ 2" x 1" unfinished).

Unit 24 - Make 1 BgBgK

34. Sew a Fabric K 2" x 31⁄2" piece between 2 Background Fabric 2" x 21⁄2" pieces to complete Unit 25 (7 1⁄ 2" x 2" unfinished).

Unit 25 - Make 1 BgBgK

36. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method to add Background Fabric 2 1⁄ 2" squares on both top corners and Background Fabric 31⁄2" squares on both bottom corners of Unit 26 as shown to complete Unit 27 (71⁄2" x 81⁄2" unfinished).

Fig. 32 Fig. 32

Fig. 33

Fig. 33 Fig. 33

Fig. 34

Fig. 34 Fig. 34

Fig. 35 Fig. 35 B

K

Fig. 36

Unit 27 - Make 1

U26 Bg

BgBg Bg

37. Arrange a Background Fabric 61⁄2" x 71⁄2" piece, Units 22 - 25, and U n it 27 in a column. Stitch together to complete Block 5a (71⁄2" x 181⁄2" unfinished). Fig. 37

The Still Room Quilt

38. Referring to Steps 31-37, make 1 each Blocks 5b-5d with the fabrics noted in place of Fabrics B and K, making sure to orient the Fabric C and D squares so the directional prints are right-reading. Fig. 38

40. Arrange 2 Background Fabric 1" x 1 1⁄ 2" pieces and 1 each Fabrics J, K, and L 1" x 3 1⁄ 2" pieces in a row as shown. Stitch together to complete Unit 29 (111⁄2" x 11⁄2" unfinished). Fig.

Block 6 Assembly

39. Arrange 2 each Background Fabric 1" x 21⁄2" and 21⁄2" squares with 3 Fabric G 21⁄2" squares in a row as shown. Stitch together to complete Unit 28 (111⁄2" x 21⁄2" unfinished).

41. Sew a Fabric K 21⁄2" x 7" piece to the top of a Fabric O 21⁄2" x 61⁄2" piece to complete Unit 30a (21⁄2" x 13" unfinished). In the same manner, make 1 Unit 30b with a Fabric L 21⁄2" x 3" piece above a Fabric P 21⁄2" x 101⁄2" piece and 1 Unit 30c with a Fabric J 21⁄2" x 5" piece above a Fabric N 21⁄2" x 81⁄2" piece.

Unit 28 - Make 1

Unit 30a Make 1 Unit 30b Make 1 Unit 30c Make 1

Fig. 37 Fig. 37

Fig. 38

Fig. 38

Fig. 39

Fig. 39

Fig. 39

GGGBgBg Bg Bg

40

Fig. 40 Fig. 40

Unit 29 - Make 1 KJLBgBg

Fig. 41

Fig. 41

Fig. 41

42. Follow Stitch-and-Flip corners method to add Background Fabric 1" squares on both bottom corners of Unit 30a as shown to complete Unit 31a (21⁄2" x 13" unfinished). In the same manner, add Background Fabric corners to Units 30b and 30c to make Units 31b and 31c. Fig. 42

The Still Room Quilt

43. Arrange 2 Background Fabric 1" x 13" strips and a 21⁄2" x 13" strip and Units 31a-31c in a row as shown. Stitch together to complete Unit 32 (111⁄2" x 13" unfinished). Fig. 43

45. Referring to Steps 39-44, make 1 each Blocks 6b-6d with the fabrics noted in place of Fabrics J, K, L, N, O, and P. Fig. 45

44. Arrange a Background Fabric 31⁄2" x 111⁄2" piece and Units 28, 29, and 32 in a column as shown. Stitch together to complete Block 6a (111⁄2" x 181⁄2" unfinished). Fig. 44

Fig. 42

Fig. 42

Fig. 43

Fig. 43

Fig. 44

Fig. 44

Fig. 45

Fig. 45

Block 6b - Make 1 Block 6d - Make 1 Block 6c - Make 1

QPN

JMK NQO

Quilt Top Assembly

Note: Follow the Quilt Layout diagram (page 15) while assembling the quilt. Press seam allowances towards the Sashing Strips. Measure the Quilt Center width and height before cutting and adding borders and adjust border measurements if necessary to match your measurements.}

46. Noting the Quilt Layout diagram for placement, arrange Blocks 1a-6a alternating with 5 Background Fabric 21⁄2" x 181⁄2" row sashing strips as shown. Sew the blocks and sashing strips into a row (181⁄2" x 601⁄2" unfinished). In the same manner, make 3 more block rows with Blocks 1b-6b, Blocks 1c-6c, and Blocks 1d-6d.

47. Sew the remaining 21⁄2" x WOF Background Fabric strips together end to end into 1 continuous strip, alternating fabrics as desired. From this, cut 3 strips 601⁄2".

48. Join the block rows with the 60 1 ⁄ 2 " Background Fabric strips between them. Sew together to complete quilt center (601⁄2" x 781⁄2" unfinished).

49. From the remaining continuous Background Fabric strip, cut 2 side inner borders 781⁄2" long and 2 top/bottom inner borders 641⁄2" long. Sew the longer borders to the left and right sides of the quilt center. Add the remaining borders to the top and bottom of the quilt center.

The Still Room Quilt

50. Sew the Fabric B 2 1 ⁄ 2 " x WOF strips together end to end into 1 continuous strip, using diagonal seams if desired. Cut 2 side outer borders 821⁄2" long and 2 top/ bottom borders 681⁄2" long. Sew the longer borders to the left and right sides of the quilt center. Add the remaining borders to the top and bottom of the quilt to complete it (681⁄2" x 861⁄2" including seam allowances.

Finishing

51. Sew together the 2 1⁄ 2" Fabric G binding strips end-to-end using diagonal seams. Press seams open. Press the binding strip in half wrong sides together.

52. Layer backing (wrong side up), batting, and quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers together and quilt as desired. Trim excess batting and backing even with the top after quilting is completed.

53. Leaving an 8" tail of binding, sew the binding to the top of the quilt through all layers matching all raw edges. Miter corners. Stop approximately 12" from where you started. Lay both loose ends of binding flat along quilt edge. Where the loose ends meet, fold them back on themselves and press to form a crease. Using this crease as your stitching line, sew the two open ends of the binding right sides together. Trim seam to 1⁄4" and press open. Finish sewing binding to quilt.

54. Turn the binding to the back of quilt and hand-stitch in place.

The Still Room - Diagram Page 7

The Still Room Quilt

Quilt Layout