TIME FOR A SPRING CLEAN / RAW FOOD REVOLUTION / FASHION FIXES / NEW YORK HOT SPOTS
MAGAZINE MARCH 2012 / t4.50
h month wit y r e v e w o n ES RISH TIM
THE I
WORK, GIN, GARDENING WHAT’S PROPPING US UP?
A ROYAL MESS When Polly Devlin Met Princess Margaret
Plus
A FIRST PERSON ACCOUNT OF TB CONNIE’S
in
TROUBLE
MAKING YOUR HOUSE PAY ITS WAY
THE Fashion ISSUE & COLOUR GLAMOUR
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Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores. B r o w n T h o m a s , 8 8 - 9 5 G r a f t o n S t r e e t , D u b l i n 2 . T e l . + 0 1 6 0 5 6 6 6 6 l o u i s v u i t t o n . c o m T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N E | September 2009 | 15
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WWW.BROWNTHOMAS.COM
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DATES FOR YOUR DIARY THE WEBSITE We launch our new website this month, with more fashion, beauty, travel and food and details of all our events for 2012. www.thegloss.ie
MARCH 2012
THE PRIVATE SALE EVENT In advance of the Kildare Village Private Sale, the fashion team at THE GLOSS has previewed some great pieces on sale from March 8. See Editor’s Choices at www.thegloss.ie. To get your invitation, see page 41. THE MENSWEAR MAGAZINE Men’s fashion, style, sport, work and play – Brown Thomas Menswear will be published on Friday March 23. THE GLOSS INTERIORS The spring/summer issue of THE GLOSS INTERIORS – full of fabulous inspiration and ideas – published on Thursday April 12. THE WINE SOCIETY DINNER THE GLOSS & The Merrion Wine Society dinner takes
place at The Merrion on April 18. Details on page 65. ON THE COVER: Coral chiffon vest, CHANEL. Floral silk shorts, JASON WU. Colour block sandals, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI. THIS PAGE: Charlie wears: Shirt, PAUL SMITH. Check suit; patterned scarf; both PRADA. Hannare wears: Navy and burgundy jumpsuit, TOMMY HILFIGER. Tommy wears: Blazer, PAUL SMITH. T-shirt; maroon flat-front trousers; both HERMÈS. Photographed by MICHAEL DWORNIK. Styled by LUIS RODRIGUEZ. See page 42 for Colour Inside The Lines.
SUMMER FASHION MASTERCLASS Join us at The Westbury Hotel on April 19 for a summer fashion event presented by Brown Thomas. For details, see page 61. EFM Everything for Men, published on Thursday April 26: the latest in sport, technology, style and fitness. THE IRISH AT HOME Individual, inspiring – we explore Irish homes in a beautiful new book, published this spring. For more information on the events and publications above, please call 01 275 5130. Time For A Spring CleAn / rAw Food revoluTion / FAShion FixeS / new York hoT SpoTS
MAGAZINE
OBSERVER 8 Gloss-ip GREAT SPORT AT THE RUGBY LUNCHEON, RAISING KIDULTS AND
Off The Record PHOTOGRAPHER AMELIA STEIN TALKS ABOUT HER CRAFT AND CREATIVITY 14 March Notebook WHAT’S HAPPENING THIS MONTH SHOPPING 18 Hunting ALL DAY BREAKFAST 20 Gathering FROM BEDS TO BARS 22 Spring Forward THE SEASON’S NEW TRENDS FEATURES 26 Guess Who’s Coming To Dinner? POLLY DEVLIN PLAYS HOST TO A PRINCESS 30 Group Therapy THREE FEMALE COMEDIANS ON THEIR CAREERS, PERSONAL LIVES AND MOTIVATIONS 34 A Thoroughly Modern Guide to Social Media Etiquette NAVIGATE THE NET 36 What’s Propping Us Up FEELING THE SLUMP? SEE THE A-Z OF SIMPLE SUPPORTS 38 It’s Back WE LOOK AT TB IN 2012 FASHION 42 Colour Inside The Lines MIX AND MATCH COLOUR AND TEXTURE 48 Wardrobe Update FASHION FIXES AND THE BEST UNDERWEAR SOLUTIONS BEAUTY 51 Natural Born Fillers STOP SAGGING SKIN 52 Beauty Buffet THE BEST NEW PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS 54 The Spring Edit BEAUTY LOOKS FROM THE CATWALK HOME 57 Long Division AN ARCHITECT’S CLEVER CONVERSION MAKES HIS HOME PAY 62 Utility Chic IT’S TIME FOR A SPRING CLEAN FOOD & WINE 61 Restaurant KATY MC GUINNESS PUTS THORNTON’S TO THE TEST 64 This Entertaining Life A PROFESSIONAL HOST AT HOME 65 Wine THE BEST OF SOUTH AMERICA 66 The Real Raw Deal CLODAGH MC KENNA EXAMINES THE VOGUE FOR RAW TRAVEL 67 Man In A Suitcase DISCOVER THE NEW YORK ACROSS THE BRIDGE FROM MANHATTAN THIS GLOSSY LIFE 70 A Family Affair THE WORK OF AN IRISH COUPLE IN PARIS COMBINES ART AND SCIENCE 73 A View From The Jeep CONNIE’S PERSONA-DEFINING MODE OF TRANSPORT IS UNDER THREAT She Does, She Doesn’t
now every
month with
THE irisH
TimEs
THE GLOSS ONLINE TRY AS WE MIGHT, it’s simply not possible to squeeze each and every hot new fashion find, beauty buy or glamorous gathering into the magazine! Discover further delights and insights on our blog, THE DAILY GLOSS at www.thegloss.ie. Follow THEGLOSSMAG on TWITTER or pledge your allegiance by joining our FACEBOOK page – feel free to tell us what you think of each issue. You can also find exclusive stories and stockists details at WWW.THEGLOSS.IE
6 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
february 2012 / t4.50
Work, Gin, GardeninG
now every
month with
THE irisH
TimEs
what’s propping us up?
a royal mess
Writing To mr Freud
When Polly Devlin met Princess margaret
LOWERING EXPECTATIONS 12
GOLDIE HAWN ON FAMILY AND HER FOUNDATION FOR YOUNG PEOPLE
how to wear red lipstick / glossip / blues for the house / punchy spring scents
MAGAZINE
march 2012 / t4.50
letters to lucian
Plus
a first person account of tb connie’s
in
trouble
making your house pay its way
the Fashion issue &
colour glamour
MuM v DaD Parental alienation
The Artist’s irish costume designer at home
Just Be Nice polly devlin on THe KindneSS oF STRAnGeRS
new! perfumed make-up
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P OL LY DEV LI N, AN TON I A HART, CATHERI N E HEAN EY, KATY MC GUI N N ESS, MARY MI L LER, AOI FE O’B RI EN, P ETER O’B RI EN, SARAH OWEN S, THERESE QUI N N, ROSE MARY ROCHE, LUI S RODRI GUEZ, NATASHA SHERLI N G CON TR IBUTIN G PH OTOGR A PH E R S
JUAN ALGARI N, SI OB HAN BYRN E, SARAH DOYL E, N EI L GAV I N, RENATO GHI AZZA, OLI V I A GRAHAM, N EI L HURLEY, LI SA L OF TUS, BARRY MC CALL, JOAN N E MURP HY, LI AM MURP HY, AMEL I A STEI N, SUKI STUART THE GLOSS welcomes letters from readers, emailed to letters@thegloss.ie. THE GLOSS is published by Gloss Publications Ltd, The Courtyard, 40 Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin, 01 275 5130. Subscriptions Hotline: 01 275 5130. 12 issues delivered directly to your address: Ireland: t49.50. UK and EU: t80. Rest of world: t115. Printed by Polestar, Chantry, UK. Colour origination by Typeform. Copyright 2011 Gloss Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. This magazine can be recycled either in your Green Bin kerbside collection or at a local recycling point.
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H C R A M
The PARENT trap... EMBRACING FAILURE... CANADA’S conservatism is HOT ... LONG LIVE print ... and a ROUND of MUSICAL CHAIRS Facebook for daily tips for grammar nerds. With the raising
parenting, but helicopter
of university fees across the water and the consequent
adulting?
influx of students from the UK, expect more Oxbridge-
Word
from
the US is that parents
type vernacular on campus. From now on, tutorials will be
who have spent years
referred to as “tuts” – rhyming with newts rather than nuts.
running every aspect of
DENISE DOWNEY, sister of CAROLINE DESMOND,
their children’s lives – organising pre-school activities,
scheduling play-dates with suitable friends, “assisting”
is running the Caifé Feirste on the Falls Road in Belfast.
with school projects and writing “personal” statements
Artist CATHERINE OWENS – whose work in the recent
to form part of a college application – have produced
show at the Oliver Sears gallery on Molesworth Street sold
a generation of young adults whom they believe are
to a Very Serious Collector – says the food is excellent. So
incapable of conducting their working lives without
does JOHN FERRIS of FoodBelfast.com, one of the most
parental interference. A recent survey of 700 employers
respected of the city’s food critics.
reported that one-third have had a parent submit a child’s résumé for consideration without the child’s
GOOD LORD! Is Anne Madden designing clerical robes?
Furniture designers SIMON and TADHG O’DRISCOLL are hosting SIT: 20 Chairs, 20 Architects at their
knowledge, one-quarter said they had a parent call them, urging them to hire their offspring, and four per cent say
the high street is awash with flapper-inspired clothes
showroom in Dublin next month. The chairs can be
that a parent has turned up for a job interview. The child’s
to get students in the mood. Fitzgerald’s test of a first-
classics or just “very comfortable and in everyday use” in
job interview. Meanwhile, a reader – and mother of a
rate intelligence was, by the by, “the ability to hold two
the participating architects’ homes or offices. Celebrity
First Year student at UCD – was horrified to be invited
opposed ideas in the mind at the same time, and still
architect JOHN MEAGHER will have a tough job
to a “parents’ evening”. Happy to see the back of mums’
retain the ability to function”.
selecting one chair from the many Alvar Aalto chairs in
dinners and PT meetings, she now must engage with a
his collection. One-time favourite of JOHNNY RONAN,
Thinking of getting your mother a Kindle for Mother’s
SHAY CLEARY, will undoubtedly propose his Marcel
Day? Consider this statistic: as of the end of January, 53
Breuer chair, while SHELLEY MC NAMARA may opt for
It’s a curious modern phenomenon, the building up of
per cent of Kindles given as Christmas gifts remained
her funky Zig Zag chair, FELIM DUNNE his original Arne
children’s egos by ensuring failure is always avoided – and
unused. Let's hear it for print!
Jacobsen Egg chair, scooped at a Bonham’s contemporary
whole new group of “kidult” parents.
classics auction in 1995.
one which has contributed here to the production of a
generation of young people who display an unattractive
JANET ECKER, former finance minister of Ontario and
degree of entitlement. The handing out of gold stars willy-
now boss of the Toronto Financial Services Alliance, was
Non-rugby gossip for guests at the only all-female table at
nilly for trivial achievements makes it hard for children to
in Dublin recently, addressing a gathering of bankers and
The Ireland Funds Rugby Luncheon was welcome respite
identify their genuine talents and successes. (One girl had
other money people. Back in the good old days, she might
from talk of tighthead props and tries though all of that was,
been so praised for her singing voice at junior school that
not have found much of an audience for her views, but now
of course, extremely interesting. Testosterone levels at this
she was devastated not to get a solo at her senior school
that Canada is the poster child for the kind of sober, safe
event are off the scale: even the Chamber of Commerce
concert – and even more so when her music teacher took her
economy we wish we had, those in attendance hung on her
Annual dinner can’t compete with the heady combo of
aside and asked her to take one for the choir, by miming.)
every word. “Remember all those rules and regulations that
rugby, class and double-cuffs. LORETTA BRENNAN
Irish schools might consider taking a leaf out of the book
you guys got rid of?” she asked. “Well, we didn’t. Stodgy is
GLUCKSMAN’s stunning emerald ensemble by Akris was
of Wimbledon High in south London, where principal
the new sexy.” Oh Canada.
no match for the diversion caused by SHANE HORGAN
HEATHER HANBURY (who used to be a management
as, mobbed by matrons, he obligingly posed: a number of
consultant before starting a second career in education)
Grammar is having a bit of a moment. The current hot topic
disbelieving offspring would later receive embarrassing
recently held a Failure Week to teach pupils that they will
is the Oxford comma – an optional comma before the word
pics of Mum and SH. Lunch segued into supper at
not always win in life and how to make the most of defeat.
“and” at the end of a list. For example: We sell books, videos,
Residence where the parties of PETER CROWLEY and
and magazines. It’s known as the Oxford comma because
In our day it was all THOMAS HARDY and DICKENS, but
it was traditionally used by printers, readers, and editors
some lucky students in the Leaving Cert class of 2012 get
at Oxford University Press. Not all writers and publishers
We hear that ecclesiastical robes for the 50th International
to study F SCOTT FITZGERALD’s Great Gatsby, arguably
use it, but it can clarify the meaning of a sentence when the
Eucharistic Congress, to be held here this year, may be
the most perfect novel of the 20th century. What’s more,
items in a list are not single words: These items are available
designed by artist ANNE MADDEN (our spy says the
the imminent new film adaptation, directed by BAZ
in black and white, red and yellow, and blue and green. The
concept involves an “all-seeing eye”). Other rumours
LUHRMANN and starring LEONARDO DI CAPRIO and
Oxford comma is also known as the “serial comma” and – if
suggest LOUISE KENNEDY has been approached to
you appreciate this kind of thing – try liking Grammarly on
revamp the official wardrobe of some less exalted clerics. ^
CAREY MULLIGAN as Jay and Daisy, is ensuring that
8 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
CAROLINE KENNEDY merged on the dance floor.
PH OTOGRAPH BY AGATA STOINSKA
W
e’ve all heard of helicopter
off the record Where were you brought up? In the south suburbs of Dublin, in a house with a
Did you enjoy mixing the scientific with the artistic in the book?
long back garden and nice neighbours.
Very much. It’s not a plant record, but some images
What was the atmosphere of your childhood?
are clearly plant portraits. It’s a visual journey
Warm, comfortable and much loved.
around the plants, trying to give a sense of their
What was your first camera?
volume and fullness, from a small detail on a leaf to
The first camera I used was my father’s Rolleicord.
the larger forms.
How did you learn the mechanics of photography?
Do you think of yourself as a city person?
I read the back of the packet. There really is an
Yes, and I’ve lived in Dublin all my life. But
element of that with film, paper and chemicals.
increasingly I need the balance of being in the
Having the backbone of proficiency then leaves
landscape: out on hills and cliffs with breathtaking
you open to express yourself. Viewing fine art
beauty and sheep for company.
prints and exhibitions outside Ireland was essential
Do you like turning your camera on yourself?
as exposure to the medium, as were reading and
No!
looking at photography publications.
Your mother was a great gardener – are you like her?
You followed your father’s path as an optician – why did you decide to do so?
I’ve come to understand her ways more. She
There were family expectations, and a family business
am leaning towards a different kind of gardening,
to be passed on; things were different 30-odd years
choosing plants by leaf colour and texture, which
ago. I think I’d have been swamped at art college.
grow a little wilder. I learned all the tactile skills
Is it hard to run a business and make creative work simultaneously?
of gardening from her, and I have plants from her
Yes, so difficult. It’s done by strict sequencing,
tree, an agapanthus that I thought was lost in last
when a piece of work is done. I used to combine long working days with long hours on my feet in the darkroom. These days I am more aware of the bounds of my energy and time: I limit myself to making work that I feel is essential.
Are your walls covered in your own work? No! With bartered art, swaps and collected pieces.
You work both in portraiture and in still life – do you prefer one to the other? No. But landscape doesn’t answer you back.
Do you often have to photograph reluctant subjects? It doesn’t really arise. With portraits there does have to be a connection between people, the moment when the subject has to have trust, and to understand that this is a moment in their lives and mine that we meet to make this image. Not every image has to show a happy relationship. That only exists in those barefoot-and-jeans, bleached-out studio images.
What first caught your imagination about the Palm House? Beauty. The timeworn fabric of the building and the plants. Heat.
garden in mine: a Johnson’s Blue geranium, a bay
amelia
Stein
Photographer AmeliA Stein, RHA, was born in Dublin. The National Botanic Gardens is the setting for her latest book, the Palm House, illustrating the tropical and sub-tropical plants in the House before its 2004 restoration. She was the first photographer to be elected a member of the Royal Hibernian Academy, and is a member of Aosdána.
year’s snow.
What art form gives you most pleasure? I did a book of portraits of RHA members, photographing all the disciplines, and I quickly developed paint envy: the look and smell of it, its colours and textures. But the studio I most wanted to be let loose in was the sculptor Eilis O’Connell’s.
What are you reading? Paris to the Moon by Adam Gopnik; Art Photography Now by Susan Bright.
Describe your favourite walk A beach in Mayo with my darling Mick [O’Dea, the portrait painter].
Is there any person or place now gone that you’d love to have captured on film? We’ve lost many friends. I think one would always wish for a better photograph as a memento.
What brings you peace? Great meals, time with my dear friends and family, being at home with all the housework done (I am really a glorified cleaning lady). Or sitting on that Mayo beach, watching the sea. ANTONIA hArT The Palm House (Lilliput) is published this month.
Samantha Browne, created for THe Gloss by Annie West
12 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
photog raph by b arry mccall
being tidy and organised, filing my negatives away
trimmed shrubs and kept things under control. I
NOTEBOOK
ALL THE FUN OF THE FAIRS
B
Christian Louboutin is celebrating 20 years in the business by launching a collection made up of reinterpretations of his most iconic styles. So what’s his favourite, we wondered. “This is a difficult question ... It’s to the Pansies series that I owe the red sole. However, I am also very fond of the Love shoes, inspired by lovebirds who can only survive as a pair. They were by far the most popular style when I opened my first boutique in Paris.” Christian Louboutin is at Brown Thomas, Dublin.
Lucky enough to own an Arne Jacobsen Egg chair? Or simply interested in learning more about the 20th-centrury design classic? Then make your way to LOST WEEKEND in Blackrock, Co Dublin at 7pm TONIGHT (March 1) where a craftsman from manufacturers Fritz Hansen will be hand-stitching an Egg chair for interested observers. www.lostweekend.ie
eacon South Quarter is home to some of the best interiors stores in the country and on March 24 and 25, the shopping complex is hosting a Spring Furniture Fair. Ogle beautifully crafted European pieces as Roche Bobois, BoConcept and SOUL showcase their latest collections, and make use of the architects and interior designers who have been drafted in to provide free consultations. Unused units in the mall will house art exhibitions and there are cookery demonstrations taking place in the Kube and Rational Kitchens showrooms. To register for consultations and children’s events, visit www.beaconsouthquarter.com ... ONE WOMAN’S TRASH is another’s treasure. Especially if the women doing the dumping have been recruited by stylish philanthropist Norma Smurfit. On March 11, Smurfit will oversee the Spring Clean for Charity Sale at the RDS, with more than 120 volunteers selling items they no longer want in aid of The Society of St Vincent de Paul and Focus Ireland. Only in its third year, the event has already raised in excess of s200,000 and attracted upwards of 10,000 shoppers ... THE FASHION INSIDERS at samplesale.ie will be selling A/W12 stock from labels like By Malene Birger and Hoss Intropia at 90-per-cent-off prices at the Central Hotel, Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 on March 30 and 31. Look out especially for belts, scarves and other pieces that you won’t have to wait until next autumn to wear.
The Gloss
March Notebook
The Copper Hen
THE GOOD ’HOOD
Macbeth Bodéga
Happening this month ...
THIS MONTH: WATERFORD
WHY ARE WE HERE? To catch a show at the Theatre Royal (www.theatreroyal. ie), a handsome Georgian venue that stages its own work and plays host to performances by touring artists and theatre companies. This month, the events especially worth looking out for are The Memory of Water, a dark comedy about family, memory and grief (March 8-17), a gig from Cork musician John Spillane (March 22) and a staging of Macbeth that promises to entertain the grown-ups as well as elucidating the tragedy for Leaving Cert students (March 26 and 27). WHAT ELSE? Swing by Henrietta Street to visit the studio and store of a local aunt-and-niece design duo who go by the name of Bonzie Crotty (www. bonziedesigns.com). Their work draws heavily on Victoriana so expect lots of intricate details, corseted waists and high collars. As the clothes have a strong sense of performance, it’s no surprise that musicians Courtney y tt Love and Imogen Heap are fans of the label. If you’re looking for ro C e Bonzi something more everyday, call into Muse (www. museboutique. ie), a boutique that brings fresh, modern labels like Acne, Current Elliott and J Brand to the city. Grab a quick bite or just a pint in the city’s coolest pub, Geoff ’s on John Street (051 874 787). AND AFTER THAT? Pick up a book, browse the excellent selection of international magazines, and support an independent book retailer (they’re fast becoming an endangered species) at The Book Centre (www.thebookcentre.ie). For dinner, visit Bodéga (www.bodegawaterford.com), a colourful little restaurant that is always crammed with locals who appreciate the French-accented menu and bustling, fun atmosphere. WORTH LEAVING TOWN FOR? Learn to surf on the beach in Tramore, twelve kilometres from Waterford City; the south-east doesn’t get the dramatic waves the west does meaning it’s perfect for scaredy-cat beginners. Warm up again at The Copper Hen restaurant (www. thecopperhen.ie) in nearby Fenor, a homely place with an open fire and a variety of cosy yet classic dishes. It’s a true Waterford experience as all the ingredients are locally sourced.
14 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
T
iny Plays for Ireland is an undertaking by Fishamble theatre company that seeks to create a discussion about modern Ireland through a series of short dramas. Members of the public were asked to submit “tiny plays” that, if chosen by the judging panel, would be performed alongside work by commissioned writers like Joseph O’Connor and Michael West. THE GLOSS contributing editor Antonia Hart’s four-minute offering exploring a mother-son relationship is one of 25 to be staged at Project Arts Centre this month (another 25 will be staged in 2013). Explaining her reason for entering, she said: “I’d never written a play before but I was just so taken with the whole notion of a mosaic of tiny plays exploring elements of contemporary Irish life. It will be fascinating to see a piece of my writing made flesh.” Tiny Plays for Ireland is at Project Arts Centre March 15-31.
Design House, Living Kitchen Westlife star Kian Egan recently commissioned Design House to create a bespoke kitchen for his residence in County Sligo. The hand painted kitchen was exclusively designed and crafted by Design House and features a contemporary Asian style.
8 Railway Road Dalkey County Dublin
Sorrento Road Dalkey County Dublin
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HUNTING
TH E CAT’S PYJAMA S
LUXURY LOUNGING There is something wonderfully sybaritic about spending an evening in your pyjamas, especially if you are in posession of a particularly luxurious pair. And now, with the vogue for bedtime-influenced fashion (as seen at Stella McCartney, pictured), you can channel that opulent air out in the real world. Be a lounge lizard in silk or satin trouser suits and use nocturnal hues on eyes and nails, but try not to stay out too late: a good eight hours is one of life’s simplest luxuries. Indulge in twilight-inspired fashion and homeware on page 20.
18 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
PH OTOGRA PH BY JASON L LOY D- EVA N S
SCIENTIFIC BREAKTHROUGH
Extra-Firming Day Clarins revolutionises the face of firming. Clarins Research has reconnected the missing links of lasting firmness. Newly formulated Extra-Firming Day cream is the only Clarins skin care rich in plant extracts that reinforce and bond the key elements of skin’s structure* to maintain its firmness, redefining facial features with instant lift and flexibility. Features appear firmer, wrinkles visibly reduced. Keep the expressions. Reduce the lines. See why one is sold every 8 seconds worldwide**. A pioneering performance by Clarins, No.1 in European luxury skin care***.
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GATHERING
channel the t
re n d
2
1
3
STE L L A M C C A R TN E Y
Streamlined and fresh, the
Tank Anglaise is a bold new addition to Cartier’s iconic family of watches, poised to become a classic like those that have gone before it. At Cartier, at Brown Thomas.
4
11
10
5
9
JAS ON LLOYD - E VA N S
TWILIGHT ZONE FROM BED TO BARS
Main picture: Pyjama-influenced daywear at Stella McCartney. 1. Blue Shafasa polka-dot silk blouse, J CREW, d119; www.net-a-porter.com. 2. Blue Annabelle champagne saucer, SHABBY CHIC, d7.50, at House of Fraser. 3. Ink Hudson velvet two-seater sofa, d2,700, at LAURA ASHLEY. 4. Non, je ne regrette rien poster, d66.20; WWW.ROCKETSTGEORGE.CO.UK. 5. Cream silk shell top, VICTORIA BECKHAM DENIM, d260, at BT2. 6. Chain fringe earrings, d125; WWW.MERLEOGRADY.COM. 7. Le Vernis nail colour in Blue Boy, CHANEL,
8
d21.90, counters nationwide. 8. Pale blue silk clutch, MIU MIU, d920, at Brown Thomas. 9. Navy print drawstring shorts, d29.95, at ZARA. 10. White
6
Suede candle, TOM FORD, d60, at Brown Thomas. 11. Palm tree table lamp, d144, at LAURA ASHLEY. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie
20 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
7
Susan Loughnane, actress wears Tara Jarmon
FASHION
NEW SEASON s e i r o s s e c Ac A K RI S
How to instantly update your look? With great new accessories, of course, everyone knows that. With a pair of new-season courts and an envelope clutch or an oversize shopper with a simple sweater and skirt, you’ll look magically modern ... Blush and black shoes, d59.95, at ZARA.
Fresh, feminine pastels dominated the S/S12 catwalks. Peach, buttercream, blush and lemon are proof that spring has really arrived.
Pink leather Boy bag, CHANEL, d3,190, at Brown Thomas. Putty double-flap bag, DKNY, d289, at Harvey Nichols.
Choose between two: one where a thin (but not spindly) block heel balances a rounded, formal toe and another where super-pointy toes and high, very narrow heel is a refinement of the court of the last two or three years. The white court emerges after almost 30 years in fashion purgatory – it’s super smart but super high-maintenance. Above left: Dusty pink Alana shoes, KAT MACONIE, d285, at Arnotts. Right: Blue leather shoes, PRADA, d420, at Brown Thomas.
Tan, that brilliant daytime staple, is teamed with raffia and linen for a classic summer trend. Victoria Beckham and Christian Dior make the look fresh again.
Python trim Lady Dior bag, to order, at CHRISTIAN DIOR.
HERM ÈS
LO UI S VUI T TO N
The ultimate in understatement, these simple unlined shoppers combine short handles and buttersoft leather. “Shopper” is a bit of a misnomer – probably best for toting iPad and mag, not a brace of tinned beans.
Bronze leather sandals, ANCIENT GREEK, d125, at
Tan Belair leather and raffia shoes, d260, at LK BENNETT.
22 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
PHOTOGRAPH S BY JASON LLOYD-EVANS
Cute as a button, these mini bags (we love Chloé’s Marcie mini saddle-bag style) are a little reminder of our first handbag. Girlish and fun, the confident will make them look cool.
Canvas Classic Line handbag, CARTIER, d1,500, at Brown Thomas
VI CTOR I A B E CK HAM
Brown Thomas.
Sarah Greene, actress wears Anna Sui
White leather messenger bag, d49.95, at ZARA.
White satin ballet pumps, LANVIN, d625, at Brown Thomas.
Juniper croc-print leather bag, d545, at LK BENNETT.
The clutch lives on for yet another season – classic envelope-style, or folded-over calzone-style in soft leather, in pastels and primaries, some with dinky handstraps. We love the Céline and Balenciaga versions. Pretty prints are turning up everywhere, and these heavily patterned box clutches make a real impact. Glorious with a simple shift, or surprising with jeans and a jacket.
VAN ESSA B R U NO
DO LCE & G A B B A N A
This trend separates us into those who care about fashion and those who commit on an entirely different level. The impractical bag prize goes to the white clutch. Glamorous. Gorgeous.
D&G
White snakeskin sandals, BURAK UYAN, d825; www. theluxuryemporium.com.
This season’s prettiest wedge is Brigitte Bardot style – with fabric details and ankle ties, in spots, dots and stripes. At Burberry, wedges were prettily decorated with a tangle of beads at the ankle and some were loafer-style, in natural straw paired with hot pink or blue. Woven leather wedges with plaited leather straps are sure to become the most-worn style and our daytime favourite. And for evening? D&G’s spectacular scarf-wrapped wedges get THE GLOSS vote.
JAS ON WU
ROKS
A N DA
ILINC
IC
B AL E N C I AG A
CÉ LI N E
FASHION
Bow back slingbacks, d555, CARVEN, at Brown Thomas. Canvas Anen bag,
Fluorescent leather bag, PIERRE HARDY, d568; www.
A neon trim makes your look instantly 2012.
matchesfashion.com
... From shagreen to python, fashion’s love affair with skin continues. Adding texture to an otherwise simple outfit, or a touch of originality to a work dress, skin makes a strong statement and has, it seems, transcended the seasons to become a timeless trend. Piou Piou python shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, d775, at Brown Thomas.
24 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
The understated tans and greys of last season are lifted with a pop of colour. If we have a worry, it’s that these accessories will date faster than others – but we like their 1970s-efficientsecretary sort of vibe. ELI E SAAB
d320; www.net-aporter.com.
PHOTOGRAPH S BY JASON LLOYD-EVANS
THEYSKENS’ THEORY,
With a rigidity reminiscent of the 1940s and 1950s, decorous handbags feature neat handles or natty chains and dinky, clickety clasps. After a winter of hefting your slouchy tote, how to hold them? In the crook of your arm is best.
Antonia Campbell-Hughes, actress wears Twenty8Twelve
POLLY DEVLIN
Guess Who’s Coming To Dinner?
I
One evening in the 1960s, POLLY DEVLIN welcomed a royal guest to her future husband’s East End flat. She remembers a night when a princess did the dishes, a writer made his anti-royal sentiments very clear, and the conversation dried up
t’s odd how fascinated republicans are by the
full of curiosity and the faint, unrecognised apprehension
Ardboe where no one had ever heard of the word “class”
British royal family. I’m not going to use a
that here, at last, I should find that low door in the
except in a different sense in Moortown school. I was
capital letter – it makes my keyboard choke.
wall, which others, I knew, had found before me, which
also fascinated to observe what Evelyn Waugh, the great
French, Irish, Americans don’t seem to be
opened on an enclosed and enchanted garden, which was
chronicler of class, called the sly, sharp instinct for self-
able to get enough gossip about them and
somewhere, not overlooked by any window, in the heart
preservation that passes for wisdom among the rich.
seem to have an adulatory obsession with
of that grey city.” All this is tosh of course and took place
Tony A-J and Andy had been in the same house at Eton
members of this vast philistine family, the
just about the time Philip Larkin wrote about in his famous
and forged a lifelong friendship based partly, I believe, on
symbol of national backwardness. It shows the gullibility
poem Annus Mirabilis: “Between the end of the Chatterley
both of them being outsiders there. Andy suffered from
of so many of the people of England that they buy, in such
ban / And the Beatles’ first LP.”
a disfiguring skin disease at the time, which caused him
an emotionally charged way, into the fantasy. Literally.
In Ireland, I had read the gossip columns about the
much unhappiness, and Tony had had polio, which had
It costs £38.5 million to support them and that’s before
goings-on of the Chelsea Set as they were called. At that
made him rather fragile with one leg shorter than the other.
security, which probably costs at least twice that. For all its
time, celebrities weren’t pop stars or movie stars or models;
Neither was good at sports or cared about being popular:
ridiculousness, the national identity remains fixated on the crown and I will get hate mail for writing this. I don’t think I’ve ever told anyone before about the event in question. Not appropriate and my husband would disapprove. But I don’t care about anyone’s approval anymore. Which doesn’t mean that I have stopped caring about other things or people. Anyway, for a start Princess Margaret (or PM as she was called, though not by me) didn’t come to dinner with
Andy became the first boy ever to become a Catholic
I was NEWLY ARRIVED in London and totally unaccustomed to ROYALTY or indeed to the behaviour and morals of the UPPER CLASSES.
me; she came to a special place, with her husband Tony
at Eton, which didn’t make him very popular with the authorities (there were many Catholic boys there, of course, but no one had actually gone so far as to convert) and Tony was a sort of genius – he loved inventing and creating and made crystal wireless sets at school and his own camera. (He was small and slight and when he coxed the Cambridge boat to win the Boat Race in 1950, he weighed in at 8st 8lbs. He had also designed a new rudder for the boat). When I first met him, Andy lived in Paris but he had
Snowdon, to have dinner with the man who was my lover
titles were the flame that drew the publicity moths, and the
an amazing apartment down in the East End of London
at the time. Her husband, ennobled by the Queen to Earl
celebrated were always the sons of peers or the daughters of
– which is relevant to this story – and I first met him at a
of Snowdon, was one of his best friends. The man’s name
this lord or that, and had all been to public school or were
dinner party he was giving there and to which I had been
was Andy Garnett. So, because I was the person he was
debutantes. I read these gossip columns, most especially in
brought by a glamorous older man with whom I was madly
determined to marry – I was not of the same mind – I was
the Daily Express, with an avid interest – the same interest
in love. The only reason I took any notice of my host was
the hostess at the dinner, though hostess is the wrong
I realise now that so many people still have about anyone
that I overheard him telling another guest of how he had
word for the girl I was then, newly arrived in London and
famous and which sells so many magazines like Grazia
begged outside his school gates. I was so touched by the
totally unaccustomed to royalty or indeed to the behaviour
and Hello!.
sadness and deprivation that this revealed that after dinner
and morals of the upper classes, though I was beginning
A very little time later from reading about these people
I went up to him, to console and sympathise with him (he
to learn the secret codes and to perceive the network
from another planet, I was meeting them: I would go to a
was, by the way, talking to Clint Eastwood, another guest)
that connected them and which made such a exclusive
dinner party or spend a weekend at a grand house and there
and I was mortified to discover that it was one of those in-
community in the vast population of England. Everyone
were some of those I had read about. This was because one
jokes that I could so easily miss and that he had stood in
knew everyone in that society, or knew of each other,
of the first people fell I love with when I arrived in London
his top hat and tails at the great gates of the school with the
and the extent and arrogance of the social network was a
was grand and he took me to people and to places to which
other chancers and fleeced tourists.
revelation to me – the opulence, the ornament, the slight
and to where I would never had access on my own. I was
Andy as a young man had always been fascinated by the
stench of decay, the sleeping around, the sort of thing
a good observer and a quick learner and I was fascinated
East End – a place that has almost disappeared now. In
Evelyn Waugh described very well in Brideshead: “I went
by the whole thing, so unlike our own dear home life in
fact the TV series Call the Midwife gives an idea of what
26 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
Florence Ordesh, actress wears Mark & James by Badgley Mischka
polly devlin it was like, a close, almost Dickensian
Looking back, I think the evening was
community of dockers and workers,
an unmitigated disaster. They arrived in
with beautiful old houses as well as
a smart little Mini and first thing was: I
near-derelict slums and the Thames
didn’t curtsey. I wish I could say it was
as its high street. He explored it on his
because of my integrity to my republican
motorbike from Limehouse to Brick
sentiments but the truth is I didn’t know
Lane and when Tony was commissioned
I had to curtsey. Princess Margaret was
to do a book of photographs of the whole
a real madam – she was acutely aware
area, he rode pillion as Andy showed
of her royal status. The thing is these
him the secret beauties of the place. My
people believe they are different from
husband remembers other more brazen
you and me – really, truly, believe it – so
evenings when he, on his Triumph, and
I had a bad black mark against me from
Tony A-J, again riding pillion, would
that moment on. We went straight out
pull up at a red light alongside the
to the balcony with our drinks to look
newest car on the road, the glamorous
across to where they had spent their
open-topped two-seater Jaguar XK120,
happy early days together. The man who
usually driven by an odious young man
lived next door was a (then) well-known
in his dinner jacket showing off to his
author called Andrew Sinclair who was
girlfriend who would be dressed to the
on his balcony but shot indoors when
nines. The car had its rear-view mirror
we appeared. The food arrived. PM ate
fitted to the front wing, far forward from
very little, smoked a lot and was fairly
the cockpit, and Andy would inch the
rude about everything and everybody.
motorbike alongside and Tony would
She had an icy hauteur and kept wiping
lean over, turn the mirror round and
her hands as if something sticky was
then, with his nose a couple of inches
on them and then washed up the Good
from it, would squeeze an imaginary
Friends’ serving dishes, which, I pointed
spot and adjust the parting of his hair,
out, she didn’t need to do. She looked
occasionally jiggling the mirror as if to
at me frostily and the royal hands went
get a better view. Sometimes the driver
back into the Fairy Liquid. I wanted to
would join in the fun but more often
be a success for Andy and knew I wasn’t
he’d get into in a rage, especially if his
being one and became more and more
girl was laughing at him too. In any
inhibited. I can talk the hind leg off a
case the motorbike was off before he
A royAl Mess: PM, often in a lather, with her mild green Fairy Liquid
had a chance to retaliate. The upshot of these exploratory excursions was that
goat but there was no chance – I was too nervous, she wasn’t interested in anything I had to say and while both the
Tony rented a little room in Rotherhithe
men had their whole lives in common (if
as a bolt hole and it was there that he
that is the word I am looking for) to talk
courted Princess Margaret, where together they could
Princess Margaret ate very little, sMoked a lot and was fairly rude about everything and everybody. she had an icy hauteur and kept wiping her hands as if something sticky was on them.
about, Princess Margaret and I had nothing, nothing. Plus I
spent many happy evenings there. Andy had a standing
at Vogue, which was a good seven miles away from Narrow
but years later, when at a party he started to apologise,
arrangement with the Good Friends, one of most famous
Street – to ask if I would join him for a small dinner he
I stalked away, still angry at the gratuitous rudeness of
Chinese restaurants in London (at that time there weren’t
was giving for his friend Tony that evening. “Tony who?”
his behaviour.
that many), who sent round delicious food when he was
I asked, immediately alert. “Tony Armstrong-Jones.” “Do
Later that night we stood on the balcony looking over the
there. I did not know that Andy knew Lord Snowdon (as
you mean Lord Snowdon?” I asked indignantly. I knew
still water. I was beating myself up about what a disaster I
he had become) until again I overheard him (oh all right,
what was what, y’see. “And his wife,” Andy added.
had been and when Andy said, loyally, so sweetly, “Darling,
behave like any young ordinary couple. So they both had a soft spot for the whole area. Andy found a wonderful apartment in Narrow Street in Limehouse, where eight Georgian houses had been preserved with balconies beetling out so far over the Thames that it seemed as though one could almost touch the passing boats. Police motor launches tied up at the balcony supports and PC WaterPlod would shin up for a drink. Looking across the expanse of water at night to the glittering lights on the other side, the city almost had the look of Venice. It was an enchanted place and I
was Irish. Anathema. At last the nightmare evening was over and we went down to where the Mini was parked. Hanging from every door handle, from the windscreen wipers, from the bumpers were odd transparent containers filed with liquid. Water, I hope in retrospect. “What one earth are those?” the princess piped up from the doorway. “Balloons?” I ventured. “No darling,” Tony said, “they’re French letters,” and he jauntily removed them. I liked him from that moment on. I was completely mortified that such a thing had happened. We didn’t confront Andrew Sinclair
eavesdropping again) responding to someone who asked
Cor. There was no more work that day. I phoned him
you were a great success.” I thought, “Yes, I must marry
him how Tony liked his new life, and Andy said that he had
back. What would I wear? “It doesn’t matter,” he said
this lying toad.” So that is my story of the night Princess
asked Tony, rather crossly, to turn down the music in the
soothingly, “it’s completely informal, just the four of us.
Margaret came to dinner.
background when they were talking on the telephone and
They’d like to see Narrow Street – it’s just opposite where
PS – And am I a hypocrite? Yes! Yes! Years later I scuttled
Tony had said “I can’t. It’s the Guards band practising in
they used to live. And Tony would like to meet you.” There’s
off to the palace to get my OBE without a murmur. But the
the courtyard” and I cottoned on.
no use denying it, I was all aquiver but that was in another
citation was for services to literature, not for giving dinner
country and, besides, the wench is dead.
parties for royalty. ^
One morning Andy called me from Paris – I was working
28 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
CONTACT: +44 (0) 20 77 20 97 25 UK@THOMASSABO.COM
W A T C H E S
WWW.THOMASSABO.COM
interview
group therapy Inferiority complexes, sexism, and lifechanging illness. There was no subject off limits when Lynn EnrIghT sat down for a frank chat with three of Ireland’s funniest women Photographed by barry mccall styled by lynn enright Make-up by lisa mc loughlin Hair by david cashman
My naMe is anne and i’M a cOMedian: “i was always a clown, the one down the back of the class making jokes.”
Anne wears: Black dress; silver necklace; both cos, at BT2, dundrum Town centre. Pink stiletto shoes, Jimmy choo; jewelled cuff, Joanne Hynes; both at Harvey nichols, dundrum Town centre.
30 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
interview
My naMe is Carol and i’M a CoMedian: “i thought getting into comedy we’d all be hanging out, laughing but no ... it’s lonely.”
My naMe is jennifer and i’M a CoMedian: “rTÉ hired me because they thought i had balls.”
Jennifer wears: sequinned jumpsuit, MiCHael Michael Kors, at BT2, dundrum Town Centre. lime green shoes, sam edelman, at Harvey nichols, dundrum Town Centre.
Carol wears: dress with neon collar, MsGM, at BT2, dundrum Town Centre. Wedge heel shoes, jeffrey Campbell, at Harvey nichols, dundrum Town Centre.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | March 2012 | 31
IntervIew
A
nne
Gildea
“Creative people are open, so open.
founding
You’re open to all the good things in life,
member of all-
but you’re also really open to bad shit.
girl
comedy
And we think too much; comedians
The
think too much.” But Gildea sees things
Nualas – moans
in a more practical light. “Ah look it,”
when I mention
she says sensibly, “it depends on your
the notion that there aren’t very many
personality. There’s the disposition thing
women in Irish comedy. “I’ve done the
and then there’s the situational thing. The
why-are-there-so-few-female-comics
life didn’t suit me, going off on trains on
article 19,000 times before,” she says with
my own and staying in hotels on my own.
exaggerated exasperation. “It’s the ongoing
I much prefer going off with the girls
thing: ‘women comedy, women comedy’.”
and having a laugh and a glass of wine
It might not be a hugely original thought
afterwards.” “It is lonely,” admits Tobin
– if we’re to believe Gildea, thousands of
when asked about the stand-up lifestyle.
journalists have posed the same question
“I thought getting into comedy would be
– but it is one worth pondering. We’ve
rock ’n’ roll, we’d all be hanging out and
–
troupe
produced a bulging gaggle of successful, award-winning, panel show-starring male comedians – men like Tommy Tiernan, Dara O’Briain, Dylan Moran and Des Bishop (well, we provided the Irish American with his funniest gag, a riff on the immersion heater) – but we haven’t exported too many of our funny women. It’s not just that we don’t see Irish female comedians on our televisions; they’re also a rarity in our comedy clubs. Pop along to a comedy gig any evening and you can bet that the men on stage outnumber the women by a lopsided and unfunny ratio. Jennifer Maguire, the bolshy, impish troublemaker
“I don’t want to have babies because I’m afraid that my baby would leave me for a better mother,” admits Tobin.
doing drugs and sleeping with each other. We’d all be laughing, tears down our faces, but no. It’s work; it’s business.” And while we’re talking honestly, what about men and boyfriends? “I met my boyfriend because I directed him in play,” says Maguire, who recently bought a house in Ranelagh with her Italian boyfriend of six years. “He is funny. Laughter is very important and it is an attractive quality because I like being around people who make you laugh. It makes you feel
concedes too that as one of nine children, her desire to make
good.” Gildea, who is currently single, has experienced the
people laugh was “probably an attention thing”.
downside of dating somebody who is funny for a living: “I
from RTÉ’s The Republic Of Telly who first found fame as
Maguire also comes from a large family (she is the youngest
lived with a comic once and suffice to say, I’ve never lived
an Apprentice contestant on BBC, doesn’t see the uneven
of six) and says she got her job at the national broadcaster
with one since. Everything was about comedy. Comedy
situation as being unique to comedy: “You can say it’s
because “they thought I had balls and I’d say anything to
this, comedy that, and you just need other things.” Tobin,
very male-dominated but any boardroom in the country is
anyone”. (Well, this is a woman who attempted to cajole Anne
who was also in a long-term relationship with a comedian,
male-dominated. Women always have to work harder in
Doyle into saying “bollocks” at an awards ceremony.) She
says she doesn’t “know if it is better to be with someone who
any industry, not just comedy.” “That’s what I always say,”
thinks that “maybe men are drawn to comedy for different
completely understands the business or someone who’s just,
concurs Gildea. “Look at anything – politics, anything – it’s
reasons than women. A lot of men do it, and you know it’s
‘Go off there you’ and won’t even go to your gigs.”
the same.” Stand-up Carol Tobin goes so far as to say that
an ego thing and they are guaranteed a shag at the end of that
Gildea, now in her 40s, says: “Looking back, I think
she doesn’t think women would be bothered joining her on
joke.” Tobin says she does notice that male comedians are
the ideal thing would be to have someone who works in
the comedy circuit. “It’s not as if there are loads of women
often approached by fans after a gig – “It doesn’t have to be a
a very secure, professional job who can afford to support
trying to get into comedy and they can’t,” she muses. “There
big gig; it can be the Ha’penny [Dublin pub that hosts open
you when your income goes … ” She emits a long, loud
aren’t women trying to get into it. They’re not drawn to it.”
mic nights] and a guy will get loads of women after him” – but
squeaking noise that only ends when she reaches the
To a comedy outsider, it does seem like a sadomasochistic
finds she attracts a different kind of attention. “People, mainly
lowest possible note. “Because I didn’t have that and then
career choice. Why would a woman want to stand on a
men, often ask, ‘Do you write your own jokes?’ As if they can’t
I got cancer.” She lets out a massive laugh, but she’s not
stage offering up stories about her love life and family life
believe that I could come up with it. Or they’ll say, ‘Oh I like
joking. Last summer she was diagnosed with breast cancer
and weaknesses and vulnerabilities, all in the hope of a
this joke but I hated this one.’ As if they’re giving me advice.
and has since had chemotherapy and a mastectomy. She
attracting a few laughs from strangers. “I think it really is a
And they wouldn’t say it to the guys.”
is forthright about her treatment and answers questions
calling. Because it is really tough. Some days I’m like ‘Why?’
Tobin is the only woman of the three doing stand-up;
You know especially when you die on stage, you just think:
Gildea gave it up after realising she was “never going to be a
‘Why am I doing this?’” admits Tobin, a blonde five-foot-nine
superstar doing this. I just thought I’d prefer to do the Nuala
She is currently undergoing radiation and her ambition
Kerry woman with endless foal-like legs (I wouldn’t describe
thing. I found stand-up terribly frustrating because I really
for 2012 is to write a “hilarious breast cancer song”. She
a male comedian like this, would I?). “I wanted to be a writer
wanted to be fantastic and I felt that I never really found my
also hopes to have her breast reconstructed and is touring
and I thought it was a way into writing because you have to
voice. In the end it just killed me.” Maguire says she “can’t
the country with The Nualas. Maguire will continue with
write jokes and I didn’t realise it was so hard,” she says. “I see
imagine doing stand-up; it’s so tough”. And watching Tobin
her day job – running a makeover studio in Dublin – and
newcomers and they do their first gig and they do brilliantly
on stage, you do feel that what she does – tell a packed comedy
her work at RTÉ but hopes to do more serious acting in the
and they think, ‘Oh right that’s it’ and I’m going, ‘No, there
club “I don’t want to have babies because I would be afraid
future. And Tobin – well, she wants to finish a novel she
are least 300 more gigs before you even find your voice.’”
that my baby would leave me for a better mother”, for example
has been working on. What’s it about, I wonder. “Suicide.
Gildea believes its difficult nature is the very thing that makes
– is more exposing than performing songs or sketches. There
It’s dark obviously but I’m hoping it’s funny too.” Well
it so addictive: “You realise how hard it is but you’re hooked.
is no character to hide behind. “I think when I see women
if anyone can find the laugh-out-loud moments in the
There’s a hook in it because it’s so hard you just want to break
stand-ups, there’s something insightful, something truthful,”
bleaker aspects of life, it’s these three. ^ See www.caroltobin.
through that.” It seems that the impulse to perform comedy
she says. “It’s just the way we are as a sex, as women, that’s in
com and Facebook.com/TheNualas for tour dates and information.
is something that starts in childhood. “I was always a clown,
our nature.”
The Republic of Telly is on RTÉ Two. No Laughing Matter, a
the one down the back of the class making jokes,” says Gildea.
And what about the perception that beneath the funny
“Same here,” interrupts Tobin, “the class clown in school.” She
façade comedians are a dour lot? Tobin is contemplative:
32 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
on the subject with the same candour and confidence she employs when talking about any other topic.
documentary about Anne Gildea’s journey with breast cancer, will be broadcast on RTÉ Two on March 5 at 9.30pm.
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Manners
a thoroughly modern guide to social media etiquette Digital expert Emily Ross takes us through online etiquette any conversation, no matter how ill-mannered, rude or offensive you find the person with
In Victorian times, “lolling on a chair” was considered vulgar, reading in
whom you are speaking. Without a smile, or a gesture, or an inflection of voice, the barren
company was frowned upon, as was yawning, the consumption of alcohol,
word on screen can sometimes be misinterpreted. A hastily typed message can offend,
interrupting, or “dressing in a bright and loud manner to attract attention”.
and throwaway comments can be hurtful, ill-informed or poorly judged. Take a moment
So much for crashing out on the sofa after a long, hard day at work, with
to check what you’ve written. Do your comments make sense, and are they worthwhile?
a glass of wine and a magazine, while occasionally pestering your partner for the rugby
Social channels are very much the public domain, though we easily forget who’s watching.
scores. Heaven forbid you do so while wearing a neon yellow Diane Von Furstenberg
Everyday slips in etiquette may be quickly forgotten, but online, they make a permanent
number from the S/S12 collection … Etiquette, like many things, has come a long way
mark, and may come back to haunt you days, months or even years down the line. Behave
since the steel-stayed corsets of Victorian times but this much is true: no matter where you
online as though everything you say is being read by your boss, your best friend and your
are, in the real or the virtual world, it is always wise to remain respectful and kind when in
worst enemy – because it may very well be.
The eTiqueTTe of facebook
3. Quality is better than quantity, but, when you have
@channel4news once tweeted: “Cameron says he w**ks
1. Nosiness is unladylike – avoid indulging the stalker
acquired more than 500 quality contacts, you may consider
more councils to evict tenants involved in #UKriots.” They
within when it comes to the pages of ex-boyfriends or their
yourself a thoroughly modern mistress of the art of LinkedIn.
immediately apologised for the typo which saw the letter
new partners. It’s not healthy.
4. Use an appropriate manner at all times. LinkedIn is a
“k” replacing the “t” to give an entirely different meaning.
2. Poking is vulgar. It was then, and it is now.
professional setting. Chain mails, pictures of cats, bad
8. Discretion is a tweeter’s armour. Know the difference
3. Be considerate. If a friend is not looking her best in a
language and negativity should be avoided at all times.
between a private Twitter message and a public @reply. In
snapshot you have acquired, don’t put it online, no matter
5. You should avoid linking your Twitter feed to your
what was meant to be a private message to woman of ill
how amusing the picture.
Linkedin Page, as a Twitter feed may be too informal or
repute, a now-famous US politician posted a picture of his
4. Facebook is an easy confidante, but, as in all things,
spontaneous for the formal channels of LinkedIn.
crotch to all his followers. The phrase “pulling a Wiener”
remember that trust can be misplaced. Think before you share private information online.
exists in his honour. The eTiqueTTe of TwiTTer
9. As @DalaiLama once said: “Be kind whenever possible. It
5. Careless comments last a lifetime on Facebook. Employers
1. Twitter is like dancing. You must fill your dance card in
is always possible.” Don’t say anything on Twitter you would
often examine Facebook pages of employees, and people have
order to participate. Find those you admire, and endeavour
not say in public, or in front of your own dear mother.
lost their jobs for criticising companies and customers alike.
to engage in witty, polite conversation and you will find
6. Don’t flirt in public. It’s unbecoming – and a third of all
yourself whisked off your feet.
divorce petitions in the UK are now citing Facebook as a
2. The art of good expression is as important now as it ever
1. You may be inadvertently dialling your darling dearest
cause of marital problems.
was. Be interesting if you want people to be interested in
in the middle of a client presentation. With Skype often
7. Know thy place. Befriending those with whom you have
your Twitter feed.
opening automatically on laptops, make sure that the entire
a financial arrangement is a recipe for strife. You probably
3. Brevity is the soul of wit. Ask the perpetual gentleman, @
board room doesn’t see your finest assets.
don’t want to know what the babysitter does on her night off.
stephenfry. If you can amuse and delight in 140 characters
2. Send a calling card in advance: A simple instant message
8. Cultivate a happy temper; it begets hope and cheer. If
or less, you will find yourself most popular on Twitter.
to ask if the other person is online before you dial, is the
you have nothing nice to say, then don’t say it.
4. Be well informed. Stay abreast of world events with
most appropriate way to begin the conversation.
tweets from @Storyful and @BreakingNews.
3. Patience is a virtue. If the recipent does not respond
The eTiqueTTe of Skype
The eTiqueTTe of Linkedin
5. To remain well versed in culture and style, @TheGlossMag
immediately, don’t pester with messages.
1. Connect only with those you know – do not accept
is essential fare, and @anti-room posts an array of topics
4. When signing off a video call, the other person may
requests from individuals you have not worked or engaged
relevant to the modern, forward-thinking woman.
still be able to hear you after you think the call has ended.
with in the past.
6. While you may observe plenty of gossip on Twitter,
Contain your mirth until certain you are alone.
2. Nurture business contacts, share their news, proffer
remember Mark Twain: “A lie can travel halfway around
5. Skype may be the last resort of the long-distance
advice when requested, and support their endeavours. Like
the world while the truth is still putting on its shoes.”
relationship, but remember that online security is
a well-tended garden, it will reap its own rewards.
7. Pay attention to spelling. Especially in business tweets.
paramount. (As is a good lock on the door.) ^
34 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
IllustratIon by G rah am anab le
E
tiquette can be defined as “how to behave appropriately in social situations”.
“NOTHING HOLDS ME LIKE IT.” Cheryl
HOLD IT, GLAM IT, ELNETT IT.
MICRO-DIFFUSION ■ LEGENDARY HOLD, SATIN TOUCH ■ DISAPPEARS AT THE STROKE OF A BRUSH ■
THE FINEST HAIRSPRAY USED BY THE FINEST STYLISTS
LorealParisUK Scan the QR code to get Cheryl’s look. Watch exclusive backstage footage lorealparis.co.uk/elnett
TREND
P O
R WHAT’S P
What’s getting us through the day? From Animals to Zumba, Irish womens’
C
D Detox
A ANIMALS
hristmas has been and gone, leaving puppies and kittens in its wake, the direct result of twelve months’ of pester power. Those who did the pestering, now the novelty has worn off, hardly care if a cat dies of thirst or a dog gets fat and breathless. So who is tramping off every morning or evening, rain or shine? It’s Mummy, who curses under her breath as she heads off in the rain in an ugly cagoule. But wait! Actually her glutes are firming up nicely and the dog is really quite sweet. At least he licks her hand when she puts out his dinner. Unconditional love is a joy.
snapping at the bag-packers in the supermarket (the unsuspecting Scout mixed the avocados and the bleach) – she’s detoxing. Five days of juice only and she’s completely unhinged. Only a piece of batch loaf will stabilise her. Still, her psoriasis has cleared up and she feels less bulgy round the middle. She hates it, but she’s sticking with it.
E EMPATHY
How nice to encounter someone with empathy.
B BOTOX, BREAD
Someone who can really put themselves in your shoes and properly imagine what you might be going through.
“Wrinkle-relaxing” treatments are still booming, though oddly no one ever talks about having it done. At River Medical in Dublin 2, they have between and new patients every month for injections and the Thursday evening clinic books up two weeks in advance. Females account for 81 per cent of the business, and males per cent. River Medical also offer a one month review following the treatment – if you feel you need a little more, the consultant will review and administer a top-up free of charge. Not a fan? Can we suggest a piece of fresh batch loaf, slathered in unsalted butter?
40
Spot a slightly deranged women
50
19
A clean house, a sane mind. An intense house-cleaning session gives you the opportunity to GRUMBLE INCESSANTLY for three hours and at the same time be Getting Things Done.
I INSTANT GRATIFICATION SHOPPING. That’s what props some of us up. Admit it. Only the sorriest of slumps cannot be cured
and never let her go.
by an uplifting purchase. But we aren’t allowed to say it, since happiness should come from volunteering or
F FLOWERS
“I gave up my FLOWER HABIT in 2008”, says one house-proud pal. “Special occasions only. But last week I CRACKED and bought roses midweek. Now biscuits are the banned substances and I buy FRESH TULIPS on a Friday evening.”
G Gardening, Gin, A Good GP
taking up a new hobby. (Which it can.) See it, buy it,
tear the wrapping off with your teeth. And DON’T
FEEL GUILTY.
J JOLLY FRIENDS
“People are either drains or radiators,” said Joan Collins. We know who we’d rather spend time with. Plan morale-bolstering dinners with inspiring and interesting women and restrict time spent with takers to a coffee or a brisk walk. You might as well be burning calories while you listen to her drone on …
out of the ground, that’s what”, wrote one correspondent via email. Attached were photographs of some tentative hellebores. We have discovered Hendrick’s cucumberinfused tipple. Delicious after gardening,
K KISSING
after the children have gone to bed, and you
Absolutely FED UP kissing people we hardly know and
must stop at one. Decent glass, ice etc. Ritual
going to stop today. A slightly damp smacker from a small
is very important. A good GP is the difference
child however (preferably with warm fingers tangled in
between Keeping It All Together and
36 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
All the rage in gym subculture is HUMAN GROWTH HORMONE (HGH), the subject of a big feature in last month’s Vanity Fair. While medical research shows weight lifting and high-interval intensive exercise create natural growth hormone in the body, you can also get a training buddy to bypass all this and inject you directly with the stuff, acquired on the black market. It claims to deliver a fabulous toned body (it melts away fat) and a youthful appearance. We know a certain Dublin make-up artist and his partner are positively glowing!
And then offer practical help. Embrace that person
“What gets me up? The sight of something new nosing
C CLEANING AGENTS
H HGH
your hair), could make it all alright. Sound disgusting to
Losing It Altogether. Can we say we
you? A warm, swift kiss on the cheek from a good friend?
prefer a woman? Is that allowed?
Maybe you like arm squeezes? They can be nice.
TREND
PI
NG US UP?
A-Z of emotional crutches never seem to involve sensible eating … or rarely, sex
L Lazy Days Bet you know a few past masters at plotting breaks in
Q Quests For Self-improvement “What keeps me interested? Extra-curricular activities –
Inès de la Fressange says French girls swear by
the schedule? They always have straightened hair and
learning things, having personal
a fresh countenance. But your A-type friends see days
having the bit of the day I’m dying to get to. A writing
at Kildare Village.
downstairs loo, sort out the under-stairs cupboard,
This writer keeps busy. Adding a string to your bow?
alphabetise their books). They should have crawled
No downside.
W WORK, WINE
off as another opportunity to over-schedule (paint the
under a duvet and lain still for 24 hours.Vital for anyone who occasionally teeters on the edge.
M Movies That Allow You Cry
projects on the go,
V Velour tracksuit bottoms
project, blacksmithing, upholstery, manual things.”
R RED LIPSTICK, REWARDS THE FORMER: transformative, boosting, and scale treats when you’ve written that report, scoured new fountain pen, or a delicious roast chicken from Salt in Monkstown to save you cooking.
but-it-feels-good bawl about the way things are right now.
Try the NO-PRESSURE book club – ask friends to supper and swap books that you have enjoyed. No reading to order, no
S SLIPPERS
O
Overtime
the stuff from abroad. A recent report from the National Advisory Committee on Drugs (NACD) shows that there is a “huge increase” in the use of legal sedatives, tranquilisers and anti-depressants,
frozen in the hall, wondering what to do – is there time
particularly among females. So next time
to take them off ? Do I care? Slippers have a DEEPER
MEANING for me beyond footwear. They represent my other life, the cosy one.”
an acquaintance smiles her way through describing dire circumstances, it mightn’t be just her superior moral fibre keeping her glued together.
T Takeaway Coffees Yes, you could save D12.50 a week, ie D50 a month, D600 a year, if you cut out a daily no-fat, decaff flat white (actually, we’ve just realised,
extra hours: ELIMINATE the piles of ironing, nip out
that’s a lot of money!) but where would we be without
for a walk or a coffee with a friend, finally tackle your
that mid-morning hit? So addicted have we become to
long-fingered admin – it’s amazing what d30 can buy.
a takeaway coffee that when we actually sit in a cafe, we order a takeaway cup for the plasticky taste.
It works. Even if there isn’t anyone listening, and there might be, it still calms you down.
based products, or getting friends to bring in boxes of
am inordinately attached. If the doorbell rings, I stand
Ask your cleaner/childminder/PA to give you a couple of
P PRAYER
shuffling from one pharmacy to the next for codeine-
“I have a pair of sheepskin-lined slippers to which I
pretension (Anna Karenina in a week?); just a nice dinner and a new book to go home with …
CONSUMPTION of opiates is apparently through the roof, and we’re not just talking about
From a solicitor friend, who values her DOWNTIME.
N NOVELS
X XANAX
that oven, filled out your Med 1 form. Cake, or a nice
silly, that’s just what set you off. A
good old not-sure-where-it-came-from-
Work, because it’s both a necessary evil and source of great satisfaction. Wine, for the same reasons.
shows you give a damn. THE LATTER: small dog-
You’re not blubbing about the movie,
weepie is the perfect cover for a
Zara’s – we pick up ours (logo-less Juicy)
U UNDERWIRE BRAS NOT seven days a week. Not if they’re pinching. But it’s nice occasionally to see a separation twixt bust and stomach.
Y YOGA An increase in the demand for exercises that strengthen the PELVIC FLOOR AREA is reported by one respected yoga teacher. Much unsubstantiated talk of swinging clubs. Any connection? Of course, yoga is MARVELLOUS for one, anyway.
Z Zumba
Energetic, rhythmic shuffling has become the exercise craze of suburbia. The line dancing of the
1990s. Whatever gets you through the day.
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2012 | 37
HealtH
it’S BACK We think of tuberculosis as a disease that belongs to another era, but, as AntoniA HArt discovered when she talked to experts and a recently diagnosed patient, it is an illness that affects an increasing number of people in Ireland
38 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
M
aeve Reilly’s illness began three and a half years ago, when her son was only six months old and she was 34. “I started suffering from colitis and I was on all kinds of drugs for it. Eventually, as the last chance saloon, the only alternative to removing my bowel, which I really didn’t want, I was put on a biological drug called infliximab. It’s an immuno-suppressant, and led to all kinds of other problems. I had two lots of pneumonia, and shingles, and worst of all, a miscarriage at 20 weeks.” Two weeks after losing her baby, Maeve noticed a new symptom: lung pain. CT and PET scans revealed a mass in the lung, and radiologists at two hospitals, and her own private consultant, agreed on a diagnosis. The consultant delivered the shattering news: it was lymphoma. “So there I was with a cancer diagnosis. I was rushed in for surgery. They cut open your neck just above the collarbone, then go about eight centimetres down, just above your breasts, and take the lymph gland out. Five days later I was preparing for chemo. I’d cut my hair off, because I didn’t want my little boy to get a sudden scare, seeing me without hair, and the nurses were prepping me, when my consultant walked in and said, ‘You won’t believe it! It’s not lymphoma – it’s TB’.” The World Health Organisation reports that tuberculosis kills or debilitates more adults between 15 and 59 than any other disease in the world, yet in Ireland it is still regarded as a historical problem. It was, of course, and a huge one: Dr Anne Mac Lellan of UCD’s Centre for the History of Medicine in Ireland says that in the early 1900s, about 12,000 people died every year from TB. This shocking figure was reduced gradually, with explicable peaks during the two world wars, until by the 1950s a combination of a national BCG vaccination scheme, improved nutrition, living and working conditions, and the availability of chemotherapy saw numbers dropping into the hundreds. But, contrary to popular belief, TB was never eradicated in Ireland. Maeve Reilly is not unusual in having a disease which now occurs here in ten people for every 100,000. While in the 1950s cases were concentrated in Dublin, the highest incidence of cases now seems to be in the HSE South. Any environment where people live communally, such as a nursing home, hostel or prison, provides numerous opportunities for infection by the breathing in of droplets sneezed or coughed by an infectious person. The Irish Times reported last October that at Cloverhill prison, 30 out of a tested 45 prison officers, all of whom had been in contact with prisoners thought to have TB, were themselves confirmed as having latent TB. While the Health Protection Surveillance Committee does not use the word “epidemic” to describe the current incidence of TB in Ireland, consultant respiratory physician Professor Joe Keane, Director of Clinical TB Services at the St James’s Supraregional Centre, does. And in his opinion it’s not a stable epidemic, but one “in flux”. “I’m very keen to put the kibosh on the notion that it’s stable, it’s one that serves the public poorly. The number of cases may not have changed in recent years, but significant changes are that cases in Irish-born people are decreasing, while cases in foreign-born people [particularly those who come in to Ireland but were born in the old Russian Federation and China] are increasing. And cases of a multiple-drug-resistant strain of the disease are increasing – they are highly complex and hard to treat.” He adds that it is the increase in cases in foreign-born
HealtH people which causes him to use the word epidemic. “Epidemic is ‘more cases than normal’”, he points out, and suggests that migrants to Ireland should be tested for TB on entry to the country. “I had it done myself when I went to work in America. You have a skin test, and if it’s positive, you have a chest x-ray. If there is a latent TB infection, one pill can stop TB waking up and making that person and their community ill. This preventative step is highly effective. If offered to new migrants, this option would mean that people could get proper care and treatment, and those around them could be kept safe. That’s intelligent public health.” I wonder whether there should be a national screening programme, but Professor Keane is brisk in dismissal. “Look, the idea of universal screening for latent TB in all Irish people is folly. But you can screen those who are at risk – anyone who’s been exposed to infectious TB, intravenous drug users, people with HIV or on specific immuno-suppressants, homeless people – who are prone to be users of alcohol, cigarettes and opiates, and likely to find themselves in overcrowded conditions – and people from countries of high prevalence.” A person with active TB may have symptoms such as a cough (perhaps producing of blood in the sputum), night sweats, and weight loss, while a patient with latent TB appears quite well; it seems that in Maeve Reilly’s case, latent TB was activated by the immuno-suppressant
“I was preparing for chemo.The nurses were prepping me, when my consultant walked in and said, ‘You won’t believe it! It’s not lymphoma – it’s TB’.” drug administered to her for colitis. Where her original infection came from, she’s unsure. Doctors suggested it might have been transmitted during the five years she spent at university in London (the incidence of TB in the United Kingdom is higher than here), but she thinks it may have been during travels in Cambodia and India. “Oddly, in order to contract TB you have to spend about ten hours in a room with someone infectious. In college you don’t normally spend ten hours in a room with someone coughing over you. I spent time travelling, studying yoga and meditation, and I suspect I might have got it during one of my three-day train journeys in India.” Up to now, I would have assumed that those of us who were vaccinated with BCG as newborns would be safe enough in such a situation, but Professor Keane says this is another misconception and points out that BCG does not prevent lung TB. Looking this up later, I also find out from the National Immunisation Advisory Committee that whatever efficacy the vaccine does have lasts for approximately 15 years; in Ireland, babies are vaccinated at two months. And you can only be vaccinated once. However it arrived in her system, Maeve started treatment immediately – four antibiotics for three months, then down to two. I assume, as did many around her, that Maeve was delighted with her reprieve from cancer, even if the
new diagnosis was TB, but she says it wasn’t that straightforward. “Everyone else was so delighted, and kept asking me how relieved I was, but I felt as if a truck had hit me. I’d got cancer, I hadn’t got cancer, I couldn’t deal with that right there and then.” She quickly discovered that cancer was something people found easier to understand, perhaps because so many people already had an experience of it. “The minute I had TB instead, people just didn’t understand. All the offers of help I’d had seemed to dry up, the help vanished, and people sort of crawled away. I was left to deal with the fact that I had TB, and I was a complete wreck from the colitis, the various other illnesses, the range of drugs I’d been on, the surgery and the miscarriage.” She’s now in her eighth month of treatment and says she hasn’t felt so well in years: “I feel as if I’ve been dead and am slowly coming back to life. For the first time in a long time, I’m not dragging myself around, depleted, as if someone is trying to stamp me into the ground. I actually feel like taking exercise.” Incredibly, during three and a half years of illness, she’s kept up her business as a graphic designer, and she manages the daily life of work and looking after her son, who’s now four. Although she’s nearly well again, and not infectious, she still has to cope with people’s adverse reactions. “They don’t understand that you’re not going to give it to them. Often when I say I have TB, people will literally take a step back from me. Sometimes they are so rude that I just feel like coughing all over them. I have all-over body pain, flu-like aching joints, and I have to take Solpadeine – dispensing it now involves a quiz in the pharmacy. The pharmacists themselves go red and stumble backwards when I explain I need it because I have TB.” Once patients have been diagnosed, Professor Keane says, they can be rendered non-infectious within weeks, but until then isolation is required. If someone has no way of remaining isolated (for example, someone homeless who can only stay in a crowded hostel), then they must stay in hospital. Occasionally someone may refuse to be isolated. “In the interests of public health they must be compelled to stay in isolation at the hospital – this is provided for by the 1947 Health Act. Thankfully most folks take their pills and can be sent home immediately.” The specialist TB unit at Peamount was closed eight years ago, and there were plans to build a replacement at St James’s, but all there is so far is an interim solution that Professor Keane describes as inadequate. “We need a 16bed secure isolation unit for those who cannot be treated at home. It’s not for St James’s, or Dublin, or Leinster, it’s a necessary national public health resource.” Professor Keane also shares one last alarming piece of news: while in Ireland we already have a multiple-drug-resistant strain of TB, The Lancet medical journal has just reported that a group of doctors in Mumbai have come across a completely drug resistant form of the disease. “Well – if it’s in India today? Just watch out. This bug is on the move.” Meanwhile Maeve Reilly, better every day, thinks about her own future again. “I’d love to have another baby, but it’s so hard not to associate pregnancy and babyhood with illness, and those dreadful days I thought I was going to die of cancer and saw myself being buried in the graveyard along with my baby son. But we’ll see.” ^ Maeve’s name has been changed. To mark International Women’s Day, Dr Anne Mac Lellan will lecture in Dublin’s Central Library on March 7 about Dr Dorothy Price’s TB work, 1930-1960. World TB Day takes place on March 24.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | March 2012 | 39
IRISH BUSINESSWOMEN
LOOK THE
BUSINESS
DESCRIBE YOUR ROLE? Chief Information Officer with responsibility for all information technology functions within Bord Gáis Energy. HAS TECHNOLOGY HELPED YOU FULFILL YOUR ROLE? As a CIO, technology is my life. On a daily basis I use it as an amazing tool to improve performance. I am currently evangelical about cloud computing. A DAY IN THE LIFE? The only constant is that the working day starts early and finishes late. Meetings with management, the executive team, suppliers and vendors; visits to our local offices in Cork and Antrim; trips to the UK frequently, and twice yearly to the US where I sit on the Oracle Utilities Council. HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH WORK STRESS? Everybody has some level of work-related stress. If I’m honest I enjoy a certain amount of it because it keeps things interesting. I use the gym at work almost every day, mostly in the evenings though if I plan to work late I often try and grab an hour during the day – I am there to work out so I don’t mind that colleagues might be around to see me less than cool and collected. Once the day is done, I switch off – I work hard and play hard. DOWNTIME? I love to travel. It broadens the mind. I like nothing better than a weekend away. I find I come back educated and refreshed. PAPER DIARY OR ELECTRONIC? Electronic, with the technology and speed available today I’m surprised anyone is still using paper! HAS THE ECONOMIC CLIMATE AFFECTED HOW YOU DO BUSINESS IN A POSITIVE WAY? Nobody is unaffected by the current economic climate. There is much more focus on costs. We are starting to roll out Smart Meters for our customers to help reduce energy consumption and costs – great news also for the environment. BUSINESS THOUGHT FOR THE DAY? Work smarter not harder. ROLE MODELS, INSPIRING FIGURES OR PEOPLE YOU ADMIRE IN BUSINESS (PAST OR PRESENT)? My parents, always there for support, laughter and encouragement. In business Michael O’Leary, for taking a small regional Irish airline and turning it into a European powerhouse. TELL US WHAT IS ON YOUR DESK? My laptop, landline, iPad, iPhone and a moisturising hand cream. WHAT KIND OF CLOTHES DO YOU LIKE TO WEAR TO WORK? I insist on comfort. I am a dress person though do have two suits that appear when I think a MY conservative look is more appropriate. I use accessories for fashion edge – I love shopping: ACCESSORIES Paul Costelloe is a favourite, and LK Bennett but Betty Barclay, labels from Arnotts, “I have a large shoe, belt dresses from Hobbs and Monsoon are well represented too. I’m also a big fan of and bag collection – enough to Crombie cashmere coats – I bought two this year to add to my collection: they are fill a separate wardrobe. This helps timeless, but sadly, not available here so I buy when in the UK. My clothes turnover me mix and match to lift an outfit is constant but with five sisters to help take on my cast-offs, I don’t feel so guilty. ^ and to get more mileage out of my clothes. I can wear any type of shoes but I’m hard on them and so buy way too many, according to my BOOST YOUR GEEKABILITY husband.” The latest addition to Vodafone’s extensive smartphone range, the NOKIA LUMIA 800 is the first Nokia smartphone to come with the Windows Phone operating system. Its
PH OTOGRA PH BY EMI LY QUI N N
An Irish institution with about 1,000 employees and a national energy network, Bord Gáis is all about technology now. Meet ASHLING CUNNINGHAM, tech chief …
WHEN I AM OUT AND ABOUT
THE WHAT’S HOT WHERE APP
Clockwise from above: Nude Bruton shoes, at LK Bennett. Platinum Super T sneaker, FitFlop. Red jersey dress; white polka-dot blouse; Hobbs; both at Arnotts. Patent Poppy red leather belt, at LK Bennett.
“Wikihood is one app that instantaneously displays what’s important and interesting at a given location – from museums to famous buildings and popular sites to see as well as city tours. I recommend it.”
beautiful design is a head-turner and the device is packed full of features. Vodafone is offering one lucky winner a chance to win the new NOKIA LUMIA 800. Email vodafonecomp@thegloss.ie. Include your full
GEEK RATING: This month I will have a couple of airport waits so will … update all my contacts on LinkedIn … log onto GoodForEnterprise, the iPhone app that means your email is secure … use the DAA app to check flight delays and listen to music on my Newstalk app ...
name, role, company and contact telephone number and the answer to the following question: Q: What is the name
MY DIGITAL FIXES ...
of THE GLOSS Magazine’s fashion and networking event held in association with Vodafone? For terms and conditions, see www.thegloss.ie. The winner of the February competition is Jane Donnellan of the Corporate Markets division at Ulster Bank.
IRISH TIMES E_PAPER SITE Due to pressure on my time, I don’t usually get a chance to read the newspapers in depth until the evening so I like to catch up with the headlines during the day.
THINK BEYOND APP The Bord Gáis Think Beyond Energy app allows me to access my account, submit and amend meter readings and check my payments and balance directly from my iPhone.
KAYAK APP Great for managing your travel itinerary and finding air and rental car deals. The flight tracker is essential, especially when your flight is delayed and the airlines have no updates.
My Story, My Design
Introducing beautiful faceted Murano charms. Express your story and create your design at pandora.net
PANDORA STORES Dublin 35 Grafton St.
Dublin Arnotts Henry St.
Dundrum Level 1 Dundrum Town Centre
Blanchardstown Red Mall Blanchardstown Centre
Tallaght Level 2 The Square
Terminal 1 & Terminal 2 Dublin Airport
Cork 9 Winthrop St.
Limerick Crescent Shopping Centre Dooradoyle
Galway Williamsgate St.
Waterford 18 John Robert Square High St.
Colo In tH Li Hannare: Spearmint silk cullotte dress with gold silk detailing, alberta FerettI, at Harvey Nichols. Tan leather cork sole brogues, prada, at Brown Thomas. CHarlIe: Teal cotton T-shirt; citronella cotton shorts; black and white paisley print blazer; all CalvIn KleIn. Leather lace-up brogues, blaCK FleeCe by brooKs brotHers. FasHIon note: Brooks Brothers is at Arnotts. Calvin Klein is at House of Fraser. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
our nside he ines Mix and match colour and texture to create eye-popping outfits this spring Photographed by Michael Dwornik Styled by luis roDriguez
White silk top with turquoise pleats; green lambskin and mousseline pleated skirt; both ChloÉ, at Brown Thomas.
Strap Coral tiered chiffonShirt, vest,jacket, Chanel, at Charlie: pants, Brown Thomas.and Floral printallsilkarmani shorts, shoes, Jason Wu; www.net-a-porter.com. Tommy: Shirt, jacket, and pants, Colour block patenthilfiger; leather sandals, all Tommy shoes, giuseppehermes; ZanoTTi, to order at bag, CoaCh. Harvey Nichols.
Strap Tommy: Fuchsia round-neck T-shirt, Calvin Klein. Electric blue silk jacket, Brioni; www.mrporter.com. Lightweight cotton chinos, aPC; brown distressed leather ankle boots, Paul SmiTh; both at Brown Thomas. hannare: Mustard and white cotton blend top; black and white silk pencil skirt; both hermĂˆS, at Brown Thomas. Brown leather sandals, ChriSTian louBouTin, at Brown Thomas. Charlie: White cotton shirt; black silk tie; hot pink blazer; green pleated trousers; leather lace-up brogues; all BlaCK FleeCe By BrooKS BroTherS. FaShion noTe: Brooks Brothers is at Arnotts. Calvin Klein is at House of Fraser.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | September 2009 | 15
Charlie: Blue spot shirt; navy linen trousers; navy blazer; black suede ankle boots; all armani, at House of Fraser. Tommy: Cotton twill chinos; camouflage cotton shirt; herringbone cream blazer; all Tommy hilfiger. Brown canvas ankle boots, hermĂˆs, at Brown Thomas. Nautical tote, CoaCh, at Arnotts.
Crepe red and cream shift dress, Victoria Victoria beckham; www.net-a-porter.com. Sky blue patent leather shoes, Prada, at Brown Thomas.
Photographed by michael Dwornik Styled by luis roDriguez Make-up by ilDiko for mac Hair by kateri giehl For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
W
FASHION WARDROBE
hat do you get when you introduce luxury label TOD’S to AnOther and Dazed & Confused co-founder and editor-in chief, JEFFERSON HACK? Footwear fit for the hippest hipster, that’s what (the line even has its own ultra-stylish Tumblr page). NO_CODE is a casual capsule collection for men and women with lace-up and slipper styles in leather and suede. According to the editor-turned-designer, “the collection is about being free to be yourself, laughing, making out, dancing, and staying up until the sun rises”. Sounds pretty hip to us. www.todsnocode.tumblr.com
BY AISLINN COFFEY
FASHION DILEMMA
“I’m dreading switching from the COMFORT of winter clothes to more revealing spring ones. How can I make the TRANSITION easier?”
SIX FASHION FIXES
G I VEN CH Y
AQ UASCU T U M
Underwear. No, really, I mean it. Won’t make your legs long and tanned, won’t give you a 25-inch waist but the right underwear provides the foundation for clothes that fit better, sit better, and don’t cling in all the wrong places, especially pertinent in lighter summer pieces. The right underwear? Meaning solution-specific shapewear, really: the Wacoal iPant which smooths your legs for figure-hugging trousers, giving a seamless look; or Control Freak briefs with built-in lift for a low-slung bottom, which come in two shapes, Apple and Pear; or the Spanx open bust slip (you wear your own bra) with integrated brief, so your close-fitting dress looks smooth and bunch-free. And a bra that has been properly fitted, not seized in a post-work smash and grab. (Gaping cups! Back bulges! Forward sag!) This, according to Kathy Murray, lingerie buyer at Brown Thomas, whose knowledge of the increasingly engineered underwear universe is matched only by that of her staff (“78 training days in 2011!”). To Murray, buying a new dress and wearing the wrong underwear with it is sacrilege. “And it’s not just special occasions – every outfit is improved by the appropriate underwear.” She is adamant shapewear has moved on from its earlier incarnations: constricting, uncomfortable, and downright ugly. A pale pink skort in the lightest silky stretch fabric is the very latest from Spanx Skinny Britches label. “Shorts at the back, with a little fine skirt at the front – just wonderful under a silk dress to prevent cling and keep the silhouette smooth.” The two pieces she recommends? A good slip and a high-waisted brief. “Slips really do transform a dress and high-waisted briefs are slimming, flattering, and very feminine.” Feeling good is half the battle and wearing a pretty slip is actually a lovely idea which we should possibly all adopt. Magic pants will do the rest.
Nude Push up bra, f77.50, IBra, at Brown Thomas.
Nude skinny skort, f54, Spanx, at Brown Thomas.
TO THE MAX Want to ditch the tights but not
Balmain’s flared number ticks two trends at once: pale denim and maxi-length.
M AR KS & S PENCE R
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She always gets it right: SJP in Oscar de la Renta and Theysken’s Theory leather biker jacket at New York Fashion Week last month.
quite summer-dress ready? Opt for a maxi, a style that offers a comforting quantity of fabric. FOR DAY, team bias-cut styles (Rick Owens, Alexander Wang or Reiss and Topshop on the high street) with a crisp white blouse or fine-knit sweater and a pair of Cuban heel ankle boots. AT NIGHT, floaty numbers with accordion pleats (try Tibi, By Malene Birger and Vince) look great with silk T-shirts or camisoles. If you’re feeling brave, go for a maxi with a substantial split. We love Marck & Spencer’s Limited Edition number, €54
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1. The invention of Sandz boutique owner Sandra Walsh in response to clients’ constant citing of their arms as a problem area (and season after season of sleeveless dresses), CANOPI is a set of sleeves with a low front and back that fits under your bra, clipping securely to it. Underarm wobble is contained and arms and shoulders appear slimmer in the close-fitting fabric: microfibre for day and micromesh for eveningwear, in black and grey. At Sandz boutique, Dunville Avenue, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; and Fran & Jane in Blackrock and Cork from this month. For information, contact canopiireland@gmail.com. 2. Designer Anya Hindmarch told us how the late late Diana, Princess of Wales took advantage of a CLUTCH BAG to disguise her tummy if not feeling at her slimmest. Just hold an oversize clutch across your tummy and watch bloat disappear. The best on the high street are at Cos and American Apparel. 3. DETACHABLE COLLARS, the accessory of the moment can transform any outfit, elongating the neck and reinventing a simple dress to create a whole new, on-trend look. Wear with a blouse or jumper for a cute, boyish look, or try the elegant evening versions by KARL by Karl Lagerfeld, which landed at BT2 and Net-a-Porter this month. 4. Irish designer Rita Mylett’s ATIR SHAPEWEAR COLLECTION consists of non-slip, comfortable, breathable pieces in black, red, or nude. Adjustable, removable straps (in a variety of colours, fabrics and finishes) and super-short slip lengths mean you can rely on this range no matter how revealing your dress is. www.atir.ie. 5. Revive the accessories at the bottom of your wardrobe by by entrusting them to Niall Gammell of EXECUTIVE CLEANERS in Blackrock, Co Dublin, who will pop shoes, boots and bags through his special dry-clean system. Grubby Uggs, and suede and leather a specialty. From s25 for shoes, s32.50 for bags; 01 283 2366. 6. Dreading having to do a Nigella and wear a burkini to the beach this summer? MIRACLESUIT offers tummyOpen-bust tucking swimsuits, made using an innovative new fabric slip, from f65, Atir. called Miratex, which have triple the holding power of a regular swimsuit, with no annoying girdles or linings. From about s100; at Arnotts and online at www.miraclesuit.com.
f you have your eye on a pair of brogues for summer (see how to wear in our fashion story, page 42) you might as well buy the best. CHURCH’S have been making shoes since 1873 and now the women’s collection is available at KILDARE VILLAGE.. We have our bead on the Burwood brogue. It’s not all we have spied out at KV – we’ve been busy selecting EDITOR’S CHOICES for Kildare Village’s Private Shopping Event, which starts March 8. Additional discounts apply on lots of already reduced items: we’re making a beeline for Gerard Darel, Ted Baker, Hobbs and Seven For All Mankind. See EDITOR’S CHOICES at www.thegloss.ie and www.kildarevillage.ie
48 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
Black sleeves, f39.95, Canopi. Sequin collar, f130, KARL.
Denim and leather clutch, f79, COS.
Black swimsuit, from f100, Miraclesuit.
Peter Pan collar, f13.90, Accessorize.
WWW.THE-OUTLET.CO.UK
Spring Fashion & Interiors
ALWAYS BETWEEN 30% - 70% OFF RRP Ireland’s largest dedicated outlet centre, just 10 minutes north of Newry.
FASHION WARDROBE STRAP
The ultimate personal shopping experience at BT2 Dundrum JEWELLERY BOX edit By Contributing Jewellery Editor NATASHA SHERLING
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ever mind necklaces. What felt so right last year now seems tired, and this was illustrated in the most spectacular fashion throughout the recent awards season when cuffs, bangles and chandelier earrings were consistently the order of the day. Bring this trend down to earth by forgetting about the earrings (Hollywood sparklers are too much for weekend dinners out, let alone the school run) and focusing on having what one favourite blogger, Rachel Strugatz, calls an “arm party” – namely the art of mixing and matching your arm candy to work perfectly together (stacking pieces is still a big trend). Think colour. Enamel, maybe, but coloured stones are even better. Missoma (www.missoma. com) have particularly great pieces, using a sprinkling of natural stones in every piece they create – think small but perfectly punchy shots of amethyst and turquoise. Hovering over every micro trend, however, is something far larger and, for the last few seasons – in an imitation of what is happening on a larger fashion scale – that has been due care and consideration in jewellery purchases. Even when buying for trend purposes, it is no longer fast fashion and disposable pieces that are the go-to. Workmanship, quality materials and unique design is what appeals and jewellery is being seen as a true accessory, as opposed to a “classic” piece to be worn every single day. So women who were spending a significant amount on a handbag or pair of shoes are beginning to look at jewellery in the same light. Semi-precious pieces certainly come in at a comparable price point and, without question, will maintain appearance and hold a resale value far longer than a favourite handbag that might spend its lifetime collecting make-up residue and pen marks. Your collection can grow as slowly or quickly as budget allows – because the piece bought for last year’s birthday will look as good when this year’s piece is added to it. Get to grips with this notion and grow your own arm party from intimate soirée to full on rave in no time.
DVF
MSGM
PAUL&JOE
DO YOU WANT TO LOOK YOUR VERY BEST but simply don’t have the time to navigate the new season trends? Allow us to select an EDIT OF THE SEASON based on your personal requirements ensuring you update your wardrobe with pieces that work specifically for you. Our experienced personal shopper, ELEANOR FITZGERALD will assess your needs according to your lifestyle, body shape and personal style to offer BESPOKE SOLUTIONS FOR WORK, PLAY or a SPECIAL occasion. The perfect way to spend your birthday, treat yourself to retail therapy and earn triple points on any
ELEANOR FITZGERALD PERSONAL SHOPPER
purchase with your BROWN THOMAS LOYALTY CARD. Allow us to select key pieces for your wardrobe whether you need versatile pieces to take you from desk to dinner or you want to make a great impression at an interview. Go back to basics with an entire wardrobe of MULTI-TASKING pieces for off-duty dressing. BT2 offer premium basics and PERFECT FIT denim from brands including JBrand,
EVERYBODY LOVES TIFFANY
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ince TIFFANY & CO opened their first store in New York in 1837, they have been delighting customers, from excited fiancées to tired party girl Holly Golightly. Now, as the brand marks its 175th birthday, they’ve outdone themselves by creating an entirely new metal. Combining the best qualities of gold, copper and silver, the rosy metal – christened RUBEDO – will be used in updated versions of classic Tiffany designs. This interlocking pendant marries the house’s heritage with its cuttingedge future. 50 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
Salsa Jeans and Victoria Beckham Denim. Let us help you choose a memorable look for your special occasion to allow you to wow!
TO MAKE A COMPLIMENTARY APPOINTMENT, INCLUDING A MAKE UNDER FROM BAREMINERALS PLEASE CONTACT ELEANOR AT PSDUNDRUM@BT2.IE OR CALL 01 296 8400
NATURAL BORN FILLERS
Beauty Face Lifters, Spring Trends
“I’m spending less on cleansers and toners these days,” says a beauty maven we know. “I’d rather spend money on a specific treatment product that actually gives results.” New high-tech products target one main concern, whether fine lines or age spots. And the current focus for skincare labs? Loss of volume. Clinique’s executive director of skin physiology and pharmacology, Dr Tom Mammone, explains. “Sagging and laxness of skin is due to changes in the skin, in both volume and the molecule elastin. We lose a lot of our facial muscle and fat as we age.” Mammone likens the effect to a balloon: when we’re young we have a very full skin, with no wrinkles – but take a bit of air out ... we all know what happens. What we’re looking for, then, is facial Spanx. Clinique’s solution is Repairwear Uplifting Firming Cream, something they have been working on for some time. “This cream,” explains Mammone, “bulks up and rejuvenates the hypodermis, using two ingredients: mitostime, which promotes cellular energy, and commipheroline, a brand new material we’ve just started to use which helps the adipocytes (fat cells) to store fat, and so helps to plump up the face.” There’s also whey, which boosts collagen and elastin levels, plus sodium hyaluronate to pull in moisture. Tests (on women aged 40-plus) have had uplifting results. “Fillers work very quickly, but they don’t last for ever,” says Mammone. “Our products are not as strong – but they’re gentler and safer.” It’s not just Clinique who are looking to create the big lift: Lancôme’s Renergie Multi-Lift range uses technology and active ingredients to stimulate key proteins in the skin that help to smooth and firm, while Origins Youthtopia Lift Firming Cream uses natural plant extracts to volumise. SH T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2012 | 51
BEAUTY
lf ... e s r u o y Gorge
Y T U BEA
T E F BUF H BY SARA
HALLIW
The trend for BB creams, which are neither balms or for blemishes, is at fever pitch right now – everyone from Garnier to MAC has pitched their take into the market. Latest to land is NO7 BEAUTIFUL SKIN BB CREAM (d15.95), in two shades (exclusively at Boots nationwide). Our tester raves about it, and it’s appealing to have such a multitasker – one neat tube offering moisturiser, sun protection and light coverage – all for well under €20. I’m currently trying CLINIQUE AGE DEFENSE BB CREAM SPF30 (d32), which is light and easy to use. I love the fact it’s protecting as well as making skin look better, though I find it a little drying by the afternoon. SHU UEMURA UV UNDER BASE MOUSSE SPF30 (d34) is a light as air version of a BB cream, with all the protection and benefits (like hyaluronic acid) in an ingenious mousse formula. This kind of all-in-one is great for the airport plastic bag, or when you’re in a rush, though having only two shades is limiting. BBs certainly have their uses, but they’re not for everyone.
ELL
If you’re drawn to the crop of new light and airy scents for spring, L’EAU DE CHLOÉ is one that really stands out – and not just for its classy, understated bottle. I’ve a soft spot for the original Chloé perfume, a heady number launched by Karl Lagerfeld in 1975, and of the many reworkings since, this is a quieter, pretty number with plenty of soft rose and citrus, underlined with patchouli. Available nationwide, 30ml d45.60.
There’s a rosy glow over beauty this season. And with Mother’s Day this month it’s apt that rose is all the rage. You’ll see a rose-gold gleam everywhere from ELIZABETH ARDEN’s Rose Aurora collection through to Bobbi Brown’s limited edition Rose Gold
P HOTOGRA P H BY JOA N N E M URP HY
line (though you will have to wait until April for that). Try lightening up on the bronzer, which looks so unnatural this early in the year, and use rose-gold to suggest sun-warmed skin: ST TROPEZ Rose Illuminator (d19.99) on cheekbones and brow is a favourite red carpet trick. It’s a way to do a subtle take on the season’s metallic mood, too. Rose has always been a key element in skincare, especially for soothing and moisturising mature or dry skin: every
DISH OF THE DAY
beauty brand, from BYTERRY to ANNICK GOUTAL, strives to capture the scent and velvet softness of the flower. We’ve just had a sneak preview of the year’s biggest skincare launch, from LANCÔME, and let’s just say it captures the heart of the rose ... watch this space for an exclusive report. Meanwhile, back to Mother’s Day. You can’t go wrong with a rose scent: JO MALONE and SERGE LUTENS (at House of Fraser) are good places to start, and DIPTYQUE’s latest, EAU ROSE (at Brown Thomas), is a pretty, modern take on a traditional flower. Far longer lasting than a bouquet, too ...
THE FUTURE’S BRIGHT TARGETED SERUMS FOR AGEING DARK SPOTS AND PIGMENTATION 1. DR ANDREW WEIL FOR ORIGINS MEGA-BRIGHT SKIN TONE CORRECTING SERUM works to inhibit excess melanin production, the root cause of dark patches on the skin. Its key active is a vitamin C powerhouse, used here for the first time, together with anti-irritants such as liquorice. Thorough testing on different skin tones has shown it’s suitable even for sensitive and very pale skin, and you should see brighter,
Cleansing is a key part of any beauty routine and we love anything that makes it easier and one-step, without being abrasive on the skin.
THIS WORKS CLEAN SKIN 5-IN1 WATER cleans your face with gentle rosewater and refreshing mint. So far, so straightforward. But there’s also some glycolic acid in there to balance your skin, natural AHAs to gently exfoliate and encourage cell turnover, and soothing sweet almond oil to gently remove make-up. One tube, lots of uses. At Boots nationwide, d27.50
We were raving about Lancôme lipsticks in the office this week: they’re so hydrating and even the brightest shades are easy to wear. Their new LANCÔME ROUGE IN LOVE lipstick collection of 24 glossy shades, fronted by Emma Watson, comes in the coolest silver bullet cases which are small enough to fit in the tiniest of handbags. The colours harness this season’s pearly hints and colour is concentrated, but light. Mix and blend them to create your own couture colour. Our pick is Beige Dentelle, a luscious cocoa nude. There’s an extensive range of glossy nail varnishes to match, for a groomed, sophisticated look. They even smell beautiful. We’re sold ... d25.50, exclusively at Brown Thomas; nationwide from April.
On March 8 we’ll be heading to Arnotts Dublin with an empty shampoo or conditoner bottle – to trade it in for a full-size OJON DAMAGE REVERSE Shampoo AND Conditioner (usually d24.50 each). I had to double-check with the Ojon people that you really get both – you don’t get much for free these days, and this is an excellent range for sorting colour-worn, dried-out locks, so we’d advise getting there early... Most of us will try anything to extend the time between pricey salon visits, so L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONEL’S INOA COLOUR CARE is a fine investment. Try the argan oil and green tea-rich Protective Conditioner Masque to protect and condition. From L’Oréal salons nationwide, d17.80.
clearer skin within a month; it’s also preventative against future dark spots. Don’t forget to follow with a good SPF moisturiser. Available nationwide, d62. KIEHL’S DERMATOLOGIST SOLUTIONS CLEARLY CORRECTIVE DARK SPOT SOLUTION This concentrate of natural antioxidants like peony extract targets discoloration in the skin. Super-strength vitamin C works to break down the clusters of melanin. A gentler treatment than the usual prescribed treatments (such as retinoids) that can be used daily. d46.50. CRÈME DE LA MER BLANC DE LA MER THE BRIGHTENING COLLECTION focuses on uneven skin tone and dark spots. The set of three products, originally created for delicate Asian skin, perfectly suit Celtic skin, which also tends to be thinner and more sensitive. The Brightening Lotion Intense, for example, is effective on even the most stubborn dark spots. At Brown Thomas, from d100.
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SEED CAPITAL
his beautiful fruit is so rich in antioxidants – it packs a far bigger punch than even green tea or red wine – that it’s a star ingredient for anti-ageing skincare. It’s especially good for oily and combination skin, as it’s an effective astringent. These three make pretty gifts for Mother’s Day, too: Crabtree & Evelyn Pomegranate Hand Therapy is rich in argan and grapeseed oils plus shea butter to hydrate dry hands. We have a soft spot for their hand cream tubes, and this is their prettiest yet. From d8.64. Max Benjamin’s new White Pomegranate body wash and lotion smell delicious – and they’re Irish. At Arnotts and House of Fraser, from d18.95. Korres Pomegranate Tonic Lotion, with organic pomegranate extract, is a hard-working cleanser and skin-clarifier, with salicylic acid to un-clog pores. Our tester found her skin clearer and fresher. At House of Fraser, Dundrum and online at www.beautyboutique.ie, d17.
BEAUTY GARDEN CHIC
“ This Month I’ll Use ...” SARAH JANE WAI O’FLYNN,
Pro Make-Up Tutor at LA Make-Up Academy, shares her insider beauty tips “ALTHOUGH I’M A MAKEUP ARTIST, I’m pretty lowmaintenance. I’ve been using Dr Bronner’s Magic Soap (from American Apparel) for taking make-up off as it’s really mild. I have dry sensitive skin so I’ve been using Bepanthem nappy rash cream which I find soothing. I believe you don’t always have to buy the most expensive products. Dr Hauschka, REN and Trilogy all do great skincare. For foundation, I find that mixing shades is really important to create a customised colour. At the moment I’m mixing MAC Studio Sculpt, which is good for slightly dry skin, with Lauder’s Double-Wear Light, plus some illuminator. I’m big into illuminators – everybody looks good with a slight reflective sheen to the skin; it gives a youthful, soft-focus finish. On other people I use Chanel Vitalumiére Aqua, which is easy to build and looks fresh. I think eyebrows are super-important – BeneFit Brow-Zings is great as it lasts for ages. For eyeshadows I go for NARS and Rimmel – I also find NYC and Inglot colours very good for the price. I use cake eyeliner by Face2 [at Make Up For Ever, Dublin 2] as it goes on really opaque but doesn’t feel too heavy, with a skin-tone liner on the waterline; Ben Nye [from www.love-makeup.co.uk]
In a room filled with flowers in the heart of London’s West End, perfumer Christine Nagel is talking gardening. She’s explaining the new collection of limited edition colognes she has created for Jo Malone, London Blooms. It’s a quirky little bunch: Peony & Moss, White Lilac & Rhubarb, Iris & Lady Moore. Nagel has brought together two natural elements in an unexpected way to capture the “disorganised profusion” of spring. “It’s like the attraction of opposites,” she says. So the fresh greenness of white lilac is set off by tart rhubarb, while soft, seductive iris is spiced with Lady Moore, a geranium usually found in men’s fragrances. Rather than the classic Jo Malone cream and black, the bottles are decorated with vibrant botanical drawings of the key ingredients. The name ‘London Blooms’ uses a little poetic license, perhaps – when you’re pushing your way down Oxford Street, abundant rhubarb patches aren’t the first thing on your mind. Nagel, who’s French, has taken a rose-tinted view of the city, inspired by a visit to the Chelsea Flower Show: “For me, English gardens are the most poetic – there’s more fantasy and they are very feminine. French gardens tend to be more structured.” Nagel has created scents from Armani Privé Ambre Soir to Miss Dior Chérie. “I love fragrance to have a texture, so that you can describe it as velvet, suede or silk – it’s almost 3D. I use a lot of raw material, but my formula is very short, like a little black dress. So each quality is very important.” For Jo Malone, she aims for “simplicity, sophistication and quality” – and her quintessentially English scents, such as Wild Bluebell and English Pear & Freesia, fly off the shelves. While the London Bloom combinations might be surprising, these are wearable florals with a twist of eccentricity. Think of spring, captured in bottles. At Jo Malone counters and www.jomalone.com, 100ml, D84 each.
THIS MONTH we’re wearing... ULTRA-HYDRATING Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream. DURING MARCH, YOU CAN GET A 30ML JAR AS PART OF A SPECIAL COLLECTION, INCLUDING EYE RENEWAL AND QUARTZ LIFT SERUM, IN A PRETTY JEWELLERY BOX (d80). WE’RE BIG FANS OF L’OCCITANE’S IMMORTELLE RANGE, AND THEIR Brightening Hand Care SPF15 (d29.95) IS OUR NEW DESK STAPLE. FEW HAND CREAMS OFFER SUN PROTECTION, EVEN THOUGH OUR HANDS ARE EXPOSED DAILY AND REVEAL AGEING ALL TOO CLEARLY. TRY THE SERUM FOR AN EXCELLENT ANTIDOTE TO WINTER-DULLED SKIN.
do good ones. You can’t beat Rimmel mascara, or Chanel Inimitable Intense. I love matte lipsticks, especially scarlets and
TAKE TWO Beauty Brains
tomato reds – Ilamasqua do fantastic lip pencils, but I also like to buy from smaller, specialist brands, such as Lipstick Queen [at SpaceNK, Harvey Nichols]. I use Stila powder blusher [at Liffey Valley], and for nails I like OPI and Essie. Also – Inglot have these cool opalescent varnishes in rusty pink and green – they’re great over navy. My hair’s been pink for three years – I go to Lucy Thompson (085 191 5862), who is ex-Peter Mark. She’s a master of colour! I use Aussie and Kérastase products. My favourite scent is Creed; I’ve tried others but always come back to this. I stock up at Charles Fox in London and Salon Series in Drury Street, Dublin 2 – it’s great for hair oils and beauty essentials.” www.lamakeupacademy.com
AUTY BILL
SARAH JANE’S BE
t33 BeneFit Browzings foundation t36 MAC Studio Sculpt Shampoo t4.35 st Moi Aussie Miracle in Medieval t22.50 tick lips en Que Lipstick
NARS Illuminator in Super Orgasm
Lipstick Queen
.95 OPI nail colour t12 t10 Inglot nail lacquer Super Orgasm t29 NARS Illuminator in nse mascara t29.50 Inte le itab Inim Chanel n Water t90 Creed Silver Mountai er Perfect Slim t10 L’Oreal Paris Superlin
TOTAL: t277.30
OPI Silver Shatter nail varnish
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Fair play to the people who are getting out there and launching new businesses. We talked to two Irish entrepreneurs bringing inspiring new beauty ranges to you this spring …
ot many students run a business in their spare time, but RONAN MCGUIRE, in his third year at Trinity studying business and politics, makes Richard Branson look like a late starter. Bearna Natural Care launched in 2010 and their 100% Organic Argan Oil (d14.50) is now available at Nelsons Homeopathic Dispensary in Dublin and online. “I discovered argan oil on a windsurfing trip to Morocco in 2010,” McGuire explains. “It’s high in antioxidants and contains three times as much vitamin E as olive oil, but no synthetic, damaging chemicals.” So it’s a legendary anti-ager for both skin and hair – simple, effective and versatile. Smooth it onto hair for half an hour before showering – it washes out with one shampoo – and use on face and body to keep skin supple and smooth. “It has also been known to work very well for acne and eczema,” says McGuire. There’s a new product in the pipeline, specifically aimed at haircare, and Ronan now aims
to distribute nationwide. “I don’t want to run a ‘good business for a student’ – I want to command a great business on any level,” says McGuire. www. bearnanaturalcare.com MATILDA ARCHER has just launched her antiageing range, Advanced Derma Therapy, online. A reflexologist originally from Newtownabbey, near Belfast, Archer started looking into skincare when adult acne hit. “My aim with the line was to have natural products that work in harmony with the skin. I wanted to utilise natural ingredients for maximum results.” After extensive research, she found a US plastic surgeon to help create the fruitextract based line. “The products are free from artificial colours, fragrances and parabens,” Archer tells us. Hero product is the potent All in One Therapy, which feeds the skin with vitamins, copper complex, retinol and antioxidants; we also like the refreshing green Cucumber & Peptide Eye Therapy (d28), for soothing tired eyes. www.matildaarcher.
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2012 | 53
THE SPRING
PHI LL IP L IM
There are lots of brights around, for that Hollywood glamour we’re harking back to. But in keeping with the fresh, natural, sporty look on the catwalks, lips were soft rosy pink or gentle coral and, most of all, well-conditioned. MAC Lip Conditioner (d13) was the key item at Proenza Schouler – with barely anything else – while Givenchy Magic Lip and Cheek Balm in Peachy Glow (d28.50) and MAC’s delicious Tendertone Lip Balm SPF12 (d14.50) in Purring, a soft tangerine, give a hint of hydrating colour.
COBS M A R C JA
It’s all about pretty, pared-back make-up for the new season. But spring doesn’t have to mean pastels. Make-up supremo Linda Cantello sums up the new mood: “There’s a ladylike feeling, a neo-elegance, and a yearning for Hollywood glamour. There’s also a lot of texture and plays with light which change a classic make-up look and make it more modern.” Iridescence, mother-of-pearl and blue accents give beauty a seductive, ethereal edge. And key to it all, as seen on catwalks from Stella McCartney to Giorgio Armani, is dewy, glowing skin. Oh so pretty …
For this season’s healthy, glowing skin, preparation is key: it’s all about priming and perfecting skin before you make up. We rate Dior’s brush-on Skinflash Primer (d41.50). For an overnight boost, try BareMinerals Active Cell Renewal Night Serum (d45) to wake up skin. A high-tech base can do the rest. “All the make-up artists use Armani foundation for the shows,” says Cantello. “I love Designer Lift on any skin, and it has amazing covering properties – yet still looks really natural. It’s matte but luminous at the same time.” For a super-light option, try Maybelline Dream Nude Airfoam (d13.59).
54 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
The graphic eye is still going strong for spring/summer, as seen here at Jonathan Saunders, from a little flick to a full-on winged Cleopatra sweep. So stock up on liner – such as Rimmel’s Glam’Eyes Waterproof Gel Eyeliner (d7.95), with integrated J ON AT HA N brush. And there’s a shimmer to eye colour, as seen at Chanel and SAU N DERS 3.1 Phillip Lim. “Metallic has morphed into iridescent for spring, and it’s prettier,” says Cantello. “I think that iridescent is easier to wear than a full-on metallic, because you can use it to highlight.” Try Bobbi Brown Sparkle Eye Shadow in Silver Moon (d29.50), and Avon SuperShock Gel Eyeliner in Blackberry (d8). As the Chanel couture show in February showed, blue is the coolest shade this season – not in an ABBA way, but with a pearly edge. MAC Pearlglide Intense Eye Liner in Industrial (d17.50) is a soft, oily blue-grey that makes a sultry eye easy. We loved the gradated blue eyes at Rodarte, created with NARS: try this Dark Rite Soft Touch Shimmer Pencil (d25).
The minimal beauty mood extended too far for some of us – some shows, such as Christopher Kane and Peter Pilotto, ditched the mascara. We won’t be following suit. We’re seduced instead by the big lashes at Dior, Hermès and Louis Vuitton. For an ultra glossy look, go for Dior New Look Mascara (d32), with its active serum formula to thicken and lengthen lashes. Armani Eyes to Kill Excess Mascara (d29) is a foolproof way to the blackest, clump-free lashes, while Maybelline The Falsies (d11.99) has a flared brush to open out and “set” lashes.
LOU IS V UITTON
This season’s take on blush is sun-warmed and peachy, rather than pink. For the perfect apricot glow, we love Tom Ford’s blusher in Flush (d55). “When doing a bold blush, pair with either a bold lip or bold eyes. This creates a perfect balance to the face with just two points of colour: if you do all three, you’ll have too much vivid colour and it won’t look as sophisticated,” says Tom Pecheux, Creative Makeup Director for Estée Lauder, who have revamped their blush collection in 14 shades for April: try Witty Peach (d36).
If the aqua blues that are washing around for spring don’t grab you, try a spring coral like Lancôme’s Vernis in Love (d17.50) or a cool nude, such as Essence Nude Glam nail polish in Toffee to Go (d2.29). Metallics are a strong look, too, even for daytime: try Topshop’s Heart of Gold (d10), and look out Maybelline’s Forever Strong metallics, from April (d5.99). EL IE SA AB
PREEN
BEAUTY TRENDS
There are two main themes for hair: first, the smooth and sporty look, seen everywhere from Stella McCartney to Bottega Veneta and Alexander Wang. Then there’s retro hair, seen in the sophisticated chignons and pleats at Jil Sander and Marni. Hair icons this season range from Grace Kelly to Margaret Thatcher. We asked Peter Lux, Creative Beauty Director for Head & Shoulders, to sum up the mood. “In a season defined by minimalism and natural beauty, hairstylists are channelling easy elegance for spring,” says Lux. “Sporty styles look fresh from the ocean or outdoors, and classic American glamour is having a big moment with polished ponytails, braids and bouncy blowouts. But nothing is too perfect or impeccable – deconstructed waves and undone knots and twists prove that having a bit of an edge is as chic as ever.” We love the side-parted ponytail at Jonathan Saunders; try Fekkai Advanced Silky Straight Ironless Serum (d24.40, at Arnotts).
Beaming Beauty Brightening skincare.
Immortelle, the everlasting flower from the heart of Corsica, and Bellis Perennis, a light-sensitive plant with brightening properties, together sealed a pact for women: to make your skin glow with the radiance of youth. L’OCCITANE combines these two plants in skincare products with patented effectiveness: • Uniform complexion: age spots decreased by 30 %* • Wrinkles smoothed: collagen production is multiplied six-fold** • A lightening effect: skin looks more luminous in 94 % of cases*** Immortelle Brightening Moisture Cream and Brightening Essence: skin attains a youthful glow. L’OCCITANE, a true story. *Effectiveness tested on dark spot surfaces of 24 women over a period of 8 weeks using Immortelle Brightening Moisture Cream. **In vitro tests using Immortelle Essential Oil. ***Satisfaction test on 32 women using Duo Cream and Essence.
Liffey Valley Shopping Centre, Dublin 22. Tel: 01.620.2909 | Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16. T: 01.296.3388 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2. T: 01.679.7223 | Blackrock Shopping Centre, Co. Dublin. T: 01.210.8884 | 14 Upper Liffey Street, Dublin 1. T: 01.889.2576 111 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork. T: 021.427.2892 | 1 Thomas Street, Limerick. T: 061.481.755 | Market Cross Shopping Centre, Kilkenny. T: 056.778.6514 24 Ann Street, Belfast. T: 048.903.214.22 | 12 Eglington Street, Galway. T: 091.565.791
www.Facebook.com/LOccitaneireland
long division
home
It’s a sIgn of the tImes, says archItect ross cahIll o’BrIen, of the current trend to convert former famIly space Into rent roll. he has just fashIoned hIs own 19th-century duBlIn house Into four great apartments, transformIng It at mInImal cost yet protectIng Its consIderaBle charms. and, It’s payIng Its way … PhotograPhs by
neil hurley
the elegant painted steel stairs to the mezzanine, designed to take up as little volume as possible, is just the width of a set of handlebars.
ross cahill o’ Brien, once used to having the run of the two-storey over basement house, now hangs out on the top floor where he has created an interior of surprising vistas.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | March 2012 | 57
home A separate entrance to the first floor apartment is cleverly inserted at the top of the stairs. The solid door is surrounded by a thin steel-framed glasshouse so that light pours into the stairwell.
The ultra-high ceilings might have resulted in a rather cold space but Cahill O’ Brien’s signature beautifully proportioned panelling (inspired by the Georgian panelling in Dublin’s Royal Hospital) plays with vertical and horizontal lines resulting in a light, yet cosy and interesting living space.
A big sailing fan, Cahill O’ Brien references many nautical details: the maple column, inspired by a ship’s mast is tactile and tapered.
R
oss Cahill O’ Brien’s Dun Laoghaire house has come full circle. When he acquired it over 20 years ago, it was chopped up into apartments; it then became his single combined home/work quarters for more than a decade and now it is returned to apartments, albeit of a far superior quality. The decision to divide it again was an opportunity to get rid of all the bad bits, he says, and reconfigure the better aspects – as well as to ensure a steady rental income. It became, as many architects’ houses do, a testbed for spatial ideas as well as a challenge to retain the sense of light and beautiful proportions. However, instant gratification was not the objective and the architect, the epitome of patience, admits the project took a long time, three years to be precise. What matters to Cahill O’ Brien is craftsmanship and getting things right; he prefers the way things used to be done, when people had to save for something special, and he favours doing small things extremely well over bland and grand make-overs. “I’d love to see that tradition coming back,” he says. “People minded that their homes expressed something of them. That’s what makes a culture.” This sensitively converted house expresses many of his own likes and loves. His passion for sailing, for instance: “Sailing boats are so well-designed, they have to do so many things in a small amount of space.” He also admires the way in the 1930s, the best room in the house was designed for conversation – not for virtual entertainment or television watching, so his living spaces are gracious, yet scaled for gathering around. His interest in mouldings and plasterwork flourished with this project, as did the opportunity to indulge in his signature panelling (executed by John Farrell), which he models on that found in the Royal Hospital, Kilmainham. He commissioned many
58 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
The limed floorboards, curved wall and diverse and complex joinery, are all reminiscent of yacht design.
The mezzanine, with its slats and prow like a clipper boat, is lit from above.
The bay window has been given new functionality with a system of sashes and pulleys that allows the space function as balcony in summer and additional living space in winter.
home
A slatted wooden window seat and tall drapes emphasise the room-like space that Ross Cahill O’ Brien achieved in the bay window.
The worktop in the kitchen is designed for the narrow space, being just the width of a dinner plate.
artisans to collaborate, handing them detailed pen and ink drawings and encouraging some experimentation with shapes and finishes. Elements – from the elegantly engineered stairs, to the wood columns by Ronan Corrigan and the steel frames in the bay windows – are as fine as he could make them. The house is as green as he could possibly make it too, he says, and every aspect is thoughtfully considered, from the underfloor heating and the gauging of the kitchen counters (designed to be the width of an old dresser) to the curved plaster fire surround by Tim Topham. His favourite spot is still, however, on the roof, surveying the panorama of Dublin Bay, looking along the roof tiles of the terrace and contemplating a soak in the hot tub under the stars – like being in a boat, but warmer. ^
Soaring ceilings do not detract from the more human-scale design for the room with panelling taken to head-height.
The clever conversion means the grand proportions of the 19th-century entrance hall could be retained: access to ground-level apartment is via the glazed and panelled door. Low-level furniture creates an intimate feel.
60 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
READER EVENT
Free for an Hour or Two?
SAFE HANDS
Come to a special Summer Style Masterclass hosted by The Westbury Hotel and Brown Thomas
The food at Thornton’s is reliably good but the dining room lacks atmosphere says KATY MC GUINNESS
O
n a miserable Wednesday evening, Thornton’s was half-full – the diners a mix of couples marking special occasions, an advertising executive with a voice like a buzz saw pontificating to his guests, and a couple of tables of international types. Our evening didn’t get off to a great start. “You take your time; it’s your night out,” the maître d’ said, barely suppressing an eyeroll, as we paused for a moment to decide which of us would take which chair, the implication being that we didn’t get out that often. Buzz saw man was in full flight at the table to our left and, moments later, the table to our right was occupied by a polyglot group of eight. At the instruction of the thinnest, blondest and loudest of their number, a round of cosmopolitans was ordered as they rather competitively discussed all the Michelin-starred restaurants they had visited. Across the room, a vocal, all-male, besuited table of ten was cranking into Premier Cru gear. (Before the food arrived, the maître d’, to his credit, asked if we would like to move to a quieter table, which we did.) We avoided the palaver of the tasting menu, opting instead for the three-course dinner priced at d76. This being a Michelinstarred establishment, there were a few extra bits and bobs so it ended up being five courses. The amuse-bouche of turfsmoked mackerel with tomato consommé and a cucumber ice cube arrived at the table in a cloud of dry-ice wizardry. The fish was intensely smoky and moist; the clear tomato a perfect counterpoint to the oily fish. The presentation? Seemed a tad old hat. There’s a choice of three starters and three mains. The red-legged partridge with baby leeks, shallot tatin and onion sauce looked beautiful – every plate at Thornton’s is a picture – but the partridge was dull and the shallot tatin, which had sounded so appealing (I envisaged melting, caramelised shallots), under-cooked to the point of squeakiness. The pan-fried foie gras with foie gras parfait and cep sauce was very good, though the flavour of cep was barely discernible. Noisette of Wicklow sika deer with
tarragon gnocchi, roasted parsnip and Valrhona chocolate sauce was a fine dish, competently executed, but other than the unexpected – and welcome – peppery coating on the venison, this did not amount to anything more than a sum of its parts, the flavours muted. Magret of Moulard duck with chestnut purée, red cabbage, potato soufflé and bog oak sauce was more successful, the components more distinct, although I’m not sure that I could tell you what makes a good “bog oak sauce”. A pre-dessert of passion fruit crème brûlee with mango sorbet was pleasant, but the prune and Armagnac soufflé with pear sorbet was a one-note dish: fluffy, eggy, without depth. A selection of Irish and European cheeses (with a whopping d15 supplement) was the best I’ve seen anywhere for a long time – we nabbed Coolea, Gortnamona, Brie de Meaux, Crozier Blue and Époisses, all in impeccable condition. Although the food at Thornton’s was good, we came away with a sense that Kevin Thornton is playing things a bit safe, perhaps because that’s what his current clientele is looking for. Sure, you’ll still find his signature sea urchin on the tasting menu but that’s as far as it goes in the excitement stakes. The room lacks ambience and I can’t imagine going back for a romantic dinner à deux although for corporate entertaining it is clearly still popular. Lunch at d25 and pre-theatre at d47, on the other hand, sound like a bargain and I’d bet that the room, with its lovely view of the park, would have more atmosphere then. With water and a bottle of the consistently reliable, rich and balanced Minervois L’Amourier from Luc Lapeyre (d39, from the nursery slopes of the wine list) our bill came to d212 before service. It turned out the international types – all of whom seemed to know each other – were attending a conference on aircraft financing. We figured this out when they exchanged gifts of Boeing cufflinks. Seems expense accounts are still alive and well in the aviation finance business. ^ Thornton’s, Fitzwilliam Hotel, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, 01 478 7009
SUMMER STYLE MASTERCLASSES on Thursday 19 April at either 11am for coffee or 3pm for tea
Come to the ELEGANT surroundings of The Gallery at THE WESTBURY HOTEL and meet the BROWN THOMAS style team for expert advice on what to wear for those SPECIAL occasions, weddings, the races, summer parties, confirmations and communions. Learn how to incorporate summer’s accessories, shoes and bags … and get great beauty and make-up tips … all while you SIP great coffee or refreshing tea and nibble on sumptuous little delicacies.
●
Booking fee is just e15 each – redeemable against purchase in Brown Thomas
●
Come with your mum, daughter, sister, friend or colleague
●
All guests can avail of a complimentary Brown Thomas personal shopping appointment
CALL 01 275 5130 TO RESERVE YOUR PLACE. CREDIT CARD (MASTERCARD, VISA OR LASER) BOOKINGS ONLY.
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2012 | 61
HOME
There is nothing like a burst of spring sunshine to show up the domestic fug of winter. If the dust is thick, cobwebs hang over you and the stale air of hibernation is lingering in the deepest corners of the house it’s time for a wake–up, shake-up and a major clear-out. According to a recent survey by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), in the 26 countries they examined, the average time spent doing housework is two hours and eight minutes. We Irish came well below that at one and a half hours! (Don’t worry we weren’t bottom – Koreans only spend 19 minutes!) To brush off any image of being a slovenly nation, here are a few tips to put the spring into cleaning. By Cathy O’Clery
CHEAT ON IRONING If you can get your washing on the line on a windy day, then many things won’t need an iron; just carefully fold them up as you un-peg. A firm shake out and smoothing clothes on a warm radiator acts like an iron, especially for T-shirts. Sheets are the better for being ironed but the worst thing has to be a king-size fitted sheet – a crumpled battle of wills which you will inevitably lose. One solution is to get an extension cord and try ironing it on the bed.
N A RRATI VES
UTILITY CHIC
Striped tea towel, d7.05; www.ulsterweavers.com
Do It To Music
Orla Kiely apron, d41.95, www.kilkennyshop.com
Pump up the volume and treat cleaning as a workout – the more elbow grease used, the more calories burned. KEEP IT PORTABLE
QUICK-PICKUP: Use Miele’s Cat and Dog Vacuum Cleaner, a silent filter for pet hairs, D319.95 01 461 0710 for stockists.
Organise your cleaning materials. Put all cleaning products in one portable container for a quick run around the house.
Good Impression: Buy a
HIDE IT
new SPRING doormat, D45, at Eden, Temple Road, Blackrock, Co Dublin.
What really makes a messy house is clutter. Springcleaning shouldn’t just be about giving the house a seasonal spruce-up; it is also a great way to get yourself organised for the year. Become storage obsessed: find a place for everything and tuck it away. Lidded boxes, laundry baskets, recycling bins – all stacked away neatly in cupboards – will liberate your home. And if you like to see your stuff, get some glass-fronted cupboards – a great dustbusting way to show off your gorgeous things.
Invite people around ... Then you have to tidy up.
Dustpan set, d8.50, Muji
Utility bucket, £21 plus postage; www.gardentrading.co.uk
SPRING SUN
Storage boxes, d7.95 each, Howards
62 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
Grimy windows make a house look dirty but window cleaning is a bore of a chore. Using old-fashioned vinegar is one of the best things to help speed up the job. Try Malone’s lovely Irish-made, natural apple vinegar spray cleaner, which is topped up with geranium and rosemary essential oils (about d2.50 from good supermarkets). Though spring sunshine will show up all the dirt in its full glory, it is best not to clean your windows in full sun – the spray will dry too quickly, leaving smears.
OUT WITH THE OLD: Replace sink tidy, pot scrubbers, cloths and teatowels, from D1.99 at Dunnes Homewares, Beacon South Quarter and branches nationwide… LOVELY SCRUBBERS … From D2.50 at Avoca.
Aluminium pan and natural brush set; brush and galvanised bucket; £18 each plus postage; www. labourandwait.co.uk
FIXER-UPPER: Tool up with a guide to quick improvments. ReadyMade: How to Make (almost) Everything, d19.75, Easons
Fresh Fragrance If a house smells fresh, people will think it is clean. Open windows daily to get rid of stale air and deploy a fragrance diffuser to stubtly scent the room.
BUY NICE CLEANING KIT You can’t get away from it – you’re going to have to use cleaning equipment – so get something that is attractive to have and hold. If housework makes you feel all wholesome, you will love British brand Labour and Wait’s spartan range of old-fashioned utility ware from linen dishcloths to bristle brushes, or Muji’s beautiful range of implements, which are so pure in design they could turn cleaning into a spiritual experience.
Jo Malone diffuser, d60, Brown Thomas
FREE UP YOUR FLOORS A telltale sign of a sloppy housekeeper is a ring of dust around something you haven’t moved and to which the vacuum can only get so close. Avoid piling things on the floor: magazines by a sofa, boots in the hall, gym-kit bag, stuff you keep tripping over. Keep them out of sight and ask yourself: if you have to move something every time you tidy up, why is it there? A clear floor equals a tidy house. Ikea’s Lödder range of mops and brushes in stealth-bomber grey will help finish off the floor once the mission is accomplished.
GREEN SWEEP: The Oxford Co Coco Broom, a traditional sweeping brush made of coconut fibre, about D10 at Homebase.
Lödder bucket and mop, d12.18, IKEA
Spring Clean Your Wardrobe
Bunging it all in, closing the door on it and ignoring the mess is not going to work. Spring is an essential time to clean out the wardrobe before the summer moths start to do their thing. Squeamish bit here – moth larvae love to feed on human skin cells which make up 70 per cent of household dust so, if you are storing your winter clothes for the summer, make sure they are laundered first. This is an ideal time to visit the Mecca of wardrobe storage – Howards (they also have an online store). You can double your storage space if you store you winter woollies, blankets and duvets in their vacuum bags, which come in a variety of sizes. They also do shoe boxes on wheels, d26.99 each, which slide under the bed – genius. Howards, Unit 215, The Park, Carrickmines, Dublin 18, 01 294 8003; www. hsw.ie Stop your clothes from sliding off their hangers with their versatile range of non-slip velour hangers, d7.95 each ...
... and sort out that shoe mountain on the floor of the wardrobe by investing in some clear stacking shoe boxes,d12.95 each.
Put away winter silks and cashmeres after … A gentle wash in deliciously scented TOCCA Laundry Delicate, D12, at Harvey Nichols, Dundrum.
AN UNEXPECTED VISITOR IS COMING AT SHORT NOTICE? HERE’S A QUICK TIDY GUIDE FIFTEEN-MINUTE WARNING THE HALL makes the first impression so clear it of coats and bags. Check the BATHROOM or downstairs loo is clean. Quickly wipe the basin, hang towels neatly and spray some nice scent. Is the soap dish clean? Take care of SURFACE CLUTTER: pile magazines/books/ letters at one end of the table as neatly as you can (plonk down some flowers beside pile to make it look styled), remove dirty crockery or open your lap-top – giving the impression you are a very pre-occupied person. AT NIGHT, dim the lights and light some scented candles. Put on some music. Check HOW YOU LOOK. Do you need a quick change/ hair brush/bit of lippie? After all, it’s you they have come to see, not your house. FIVE-MINUTE WARNING Get as much in the DISHWASHER as you can or fill the sink with soapy water and throw in as many dirty dishes as possible. PLUMP CUSHIONS – saggy cushions look messy. Throw things into a large bag – put it in the utility room and deal with it later. Throw magazines and papers in a large basket and place a quilt or blanket on top. THEY’RE AT THE DOOR Before opening the front door, take the coats off the STAIR POST and chuck under the stairs. CLOSE all internal doors to all rooms, except the one you will lead them to. KEEP CHATTING away while clearing the clutter and folding the pile of laundry. They’ll think they caught you in the middle of tidying up. DON’T APOLOGISE for the mess – it draws attention to it – and chances are your caller is focused on you anyway. ^
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2012 | 63
entertaining
This
EntErtaining A FridAy night fEast for tEn is no problem For this proFessionAl
Life
and I pick up the odd treat in Fallon & Byrne when I’m in town. “We try really hard with the vegetarian offering at both Woodstock and Moloughney’s, because so many places just don’t bother. I’m happy to cook meat even though I don’t eat it myself. I’ll taste the sauce but not the meat itself
thE tablE is sEt with a pretty tea set left to Angela by her grandmother, while saucers from another vintage set are put into service to hold the dips.
ph otogrAphs by JoAn n e murp hy
and I’d insist on good
Y
husbandry – happy meat. I think, though, that we think
vegetarians are coming
lawyer-
into our own – just
turned-café
look at Hugh Fearnley-
proprietor
Angela
Whittingstall. He used to be such a
Ruttledge a glutton
huge advocate of meat and now it’s
ou
might
corporate
all about the vegetables.”
for punishment as she sets a table with a magnificent feast of vegetarian
Tonight’s array of vegetarian dishes
mezze for ten of her girlfriends after
would convert the most hardened
work on a Friday, but it doesn’t appear
carnivore. To start, there’s a trio of
to be taking a feather out of her.
dips – butter bean purée, beetroot
“I used to be a total control freak
hummus and a coriander pesto –
and get completely stressed about
served with homemade flatbread
having people over, but I’ve learned how to
on thE mEnu ...
relax about it. Because my husband tends to
A trio of dips: butter bean purée, beetroot hummus and coriander pesto.
work late I have to be able to do it all myself. Now I prepare lots of it in advance, and I
and dukkah. Next up is a fig salad with pomegranate and goat’s cheese, a sweet potato and aubergine tagine, couscous with apricots and pistachios, and raita. Finally, there are chocolate pots with cream,
give my guests things to do – pouring wine, grating Parmesan. I’ve discovered that people like a job!
attractively decorated with finely sliced blood orange
We usually have between six and ten people over.”
slices which were dried in the oven overnight before being
Of course, having two restaurant kitchens – Angela’s Woodstock Café in Phibsborough, which she took over
dusted with icing sugar. Angela claims to be more of a baker than a cook, but you’d never guess.
from her mother,
There are vibrant paintings by Kosovan artist Sali
and Moloughney’s
Musliu on the walls and the table is set with a pretty tea
in Clontarf, run by
set left to Angela by her grandmother, while saucers from
her sister Michelle
another vintage set are put into service to hold the dips.
and her husband,
The wine is a 100 per cent grenache from Domaine des
Liam – to plunder
Anges, Seraphin, which is on the wine list at Woodstock.
makes things easier
The café first opened in 1993 and has recently been
if
refurbished. Known as a busy spot during the day – “We’re
she’s
running
very popular with the Gardai; Saturday mornings are a sea
short of time. “I
don’t
have
of blue!” – Angela plans to expand the evening business.
to do much food
“Phibsborough is a really up-and-coming area now;
shopping at all, but
with the Phizzfest community arts festival and the new
if I do I’m lucky to
children’s hospital coming, it’s just going to get better.
have the wonderful
We’ll still be very casual, just open a bit later … and
Nolan’s of Clontarf
serving more wine.” ^ Katy Mc Guinness Woodstock
around the corner
Café, 156 Phibsborough Road, Dublin 7, 01 830 0265
64 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
ChoColate pots, serves 6 the chocolate pots need to be prepared at least 6 hours in advance of serving. ingredients: 200g dark chocolate, chopped or buttons 3 egg yolks 40g caster sugar 500ml cream to decorAte And serve: choose between slices of citrus fruit, crumbled amaretti biscuits, a piped rosette of cream or shortbread biscuits. 1. heat 250ml of the cream in a heavy-bottomed pot. 2. When the cream comes to the boil, take it off the heat and stir in the chocolate which will melt straight away. 3. leave the chocolate mixture aside for a minute while you whip the egg yolks and sugar together with an electric mixer. 4. stir the eggs and sugar into the chocolate mixture. 5. Whip the remaining cream to soft peaks and fold into the chocolate. 6. pour into serving cups or ramekins and leave in the fridge to set. decorate as desired and serve.
I L LUSTRATI ON BY N ATA L I E C ASS I DY
WINE
Join us on Wednesday April 18
A WONDERFUL EVENING OUT FOR YOU AND YOUR GUESTS
EXPAND YOUR WINE KNOWLEDGE IN THE MOST DELICIOUS WAY
At our next event on WEDNESDAY APRIL 18 join wine editor MARY DOWEY to explore the world of green wines – NATURAL BEAUTIES – organic, biodynamic and “natural” wines distinguished by their strikingly pure flavours. Fascinating stories of green wine production and the interesting characters who make the wines will be matched by the pleasure of drinking wines packed with personality.
●
six-course wine dinner: tickets ¤90 each
●
wines can be ordered by the case at special prices
●
gift vouchers available – the perfect present for any wine lover
Launched almost five years ago, THE GLOSS & THE MERRION WINE SOCIETY has been a sensational success. We’ve held 16 wine dinners in the
Cellar Restaurant of the Merrion Hotel – each carefully matching six wonderful wines with six superb courses based around an interesting theme. Recession
INCA Trailblazers
SOUTH AMERICA’S WINE OFFERING HAS VASTLY IMPROVED OVER THE PAST DECADE, SAYS MARY DOWEY, WHO RECOMMENDS SPENDING A LITTLE EXTRA TO GET THE VERY BEST OF THE REGION
W
hat images do Chile and Argentina flash into your mind? Dramatic landscapes, I bet: snow-capped Andes, parched desert, limitless pampas. Vibrant people, too, from rugged gauchos to glamorous tango dancers. Set against this vivid backdrop, the wines of South America have maintained a strangely pallid identity, pigeonholed as little more than serviceable mid-week tipples. Shake up your preconceptions, people! That impression of blandness is a decade out of date. We whacked it on the head last autumn with a line-up of smart bottles at the Latin American Extravaganza dinner of The Gloss & The Merrion Wine Society. Now I’ve seen it take a whole day of hammer blows at a fascinating South American wine workshop in London, organised by Santa Rita Estates. The star performer was a man who has been on my to-meet list for ever: Brian Croser, one of Australia’s most influential (and feisty) wine producers. As a consultant, Croser has made twelve trips to Chile and Argentina in the past three years. “I started going there because these countries are so different from the rest of the wine-producing world – and so different from each other,” he explained. “I’m the spy in the camp. Everything I learn in South America I take back to Australia.” A statement and a half. Surely Australia’s wine industry is more advanced? Not necessarily, we discovered, tasting an array of stylish wines reflecting new South American excitement. Clever consultants like Croser, Michel Rolland and Alberto Antonini have played their part in this quality revolution. Or, more accurately, evolution – because it has taken time for producers to plant vines on cooler sites where grapes ripen slowly, delivering less jammy, more sophisticated wines. In Chile, there has been a steady move from Santiago – west to the Pacific coast and up into a raft of elevated Andean valleys to the north and south. Argentina has seen a similar push from the warm wine town of Mendoza up to cooler San Juan and Salta, and south to Tupungato and the Uco Valley where vineyards are sprouting at altitudes you’d associate with good skiing . The upshot of all this? Wines with much more freshness than before. Wines with more layers of flavour, and more finesse, too, as heavily oaked styles are (thankfully) in decline. They may cost a bit more than those basic offerings to which most of us succumb the odd Tuesday night – but just pay up. They’re worth it.
or not, every single one has been a sell-out, appealing not just to our loyal following who come to every dinner, but to newcomers as well. It’s a stylish evening out and a brilliant way to entertain family, friends, colleagues and business associates. Our wine society is open to everybody who loves wine and food, by the way – and there is no joining fee.) So make a note of the dates below and book without delay. REMAINDER OF PROGRAMME 2012: WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 26: A FABULOUS SPANISH FIESTA WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 28: we wish you A VERY GLOSSY CHRISTMAS
FOR ENQUIRIES OR ADVANCE BOOKINGS FOR ANY OF THE EVENTS, PLEASE CALL THE WINE SOCIETY ON 01 2755 130 OR SEND AN EMAIL TO REGISTER@THEGLOSS.IE.
DOÑA PAULA ESTATE CHARDONNAY, MENDOZA 2010. Brilliant winemaker Edgardo del Popolo makes some of Argentina’s zippiest whites. This citrussy number comes from Mendoza’s cool Tupungato/Uco fringe. From O’Briens outlets; Deveneys, Dundrum, Dublin 14; Martins, Fairview, Dublin 3; Fine Wines, Limerick; and others. Usually d12.99. CARMEN GRAN RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC, LEYDA 2010. The Leyda region, close to the Pacific and even cooler than wellknown Casablanca, accounts for this elegant Sauvignon with flinty undertones. From selected SuperValus nationwide; Deveneys, Rathmines, Dublin 6; Drinks Store, Manor Street, Dublin 7; Londis, Malahide, Co Dublin; Ardkeen Superstores, Waterford; and others. SANTA RITA MEDALLA REAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON GRAN RESERVA, MAIPO VALLEY 2008. One of the classic wines of Chile, this glorious yet sensibly priced red gets better and better. Rich blackcurrant flavours, lifted by savoury notes and a hint of mint, are wrapped in an ultra-smooth body. A treat, especially with beef. From selected outlets of Superquinn; SuperValu; Molloys; Sweeneys, Glasnevin, Dublin 11; and others. About d18.99.
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2012 | 65
FOOD
THE REAL RAW DEAL The nutritional benefits of a raw-food diet are manifold, says Clodagh McKenna, and it’s easy to incorporate a few raw-food dishes into your usual routine
C OISHII SUSHI’S VERMICELLI NOODLE SALAD WITH ONION AND SESAME DRESSING INGREDIENTS 450g mung bean or vermicelli noodles 1 grated fresh carrot 1 grated fresh beetroot 1 /2 grated daikon (Japanese radish) – if you can get it; if not, don’t worry Handful of chopped coriander Handful of chopped spring onion Soy-roasted seeds (pumpkin, sunflower, sesame seeds). If you are a raw-food purist, uncooked seeds will still give an extra dimension to the salad in terms of taste, texture and goodness. FOR DRESSING: 1 /2 onion 100ml Kikkoman soy sauce 100ml sesame oil 100ml (vegetable oil will do if you don’t have sesame) 80ml rice vinegar 2 tbsp caster sugar Sesame seeds (for sprinkling on top of dressing) 1. There is virtually no cooking in the noodles as they are so thin; simply boil for 2-3 minutes or as per the instructions on the pack. When soft, rinse under cold water and drain well. 2. Place a mix of seeds onto a baking tray and sprinkle with Kikkoman soy sauce. Bake in a preheated oven (170°C) until you can smell the lovely soy roasted aroma (5-7 minutes). 3. Finely grate the carrot, beetroot and daikon. Finely chop the coriander and spring onion. 4. Using your hands, gently combine the noodles and other ingredients until you’re happy with the blend. Sprinkle the crunchy warm seeds on top before serving, with the dressing on the side. DRESSING 1. Finely dice the onion. 2. Put the onion and all the other ingredients into an electric food processor and blitz until smooth – easy!
66 | March 2012 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
I love everything
hampions of a raw-food diet claim that foods in their natural, from NATASHA’S LIVING uncooked state retain a higher percentage of the enzymes FOODS, a small company started that aid the body’s ability to digest, so consumers derive by Natasha Czopor, who is a raw-food the ultimate nutritive benefit from the food. Other fanatic. She makes delicious chocolate treats (my favorite is her chocolate and mint benefits, according to many nutritional experts, ganache tart, which I pick up at her stand in the include increased energy, weight loss, improved skin and tissue Dun Laoghaire market every Sunday) as well as condition, and reduced risk of heart disease. It makes sense when amazing crackers, dips and nibbles. Her foods are you think about it, as those who eat raw foods eat a reduced amount completely free of animal products, chemically of trans fats and saturated fat as well as sodium. The last thing a processed or pasteurised ingredients. She uses woman with a busy life needs is a strict nutritional regimen so I’m fair-trade ingredients wherever available, and not suggesting you shut down your oven, but instead integrate a few everything is made without flour, dairy, raw-food dishes into your weekly meal plan. Try raw vegetable salads wheat or eggs. as side dishes instead of roasted (when I lived in Italy, we always grated www.natashaslivingfood.ie winter vegetables and dressed them with a simple vinaigrette), some sushi (I love OISHII SUSHI, a small Irish company founded and run by Ciara Troy; check out www.oishiifoods.com), or marinated fruit salads served with Greek yogurt. One of my favorite ways to eat fresh tuna is to slice it wafer thin and dress it with finely chopped chilli, lime and fresh coriander. One raw day a week? Think of it as a break from cooking – and a chance to recharge your body.
THE GLOSS LIKES RAW RETREATS ... How does a relaxing detox retreat in Turkey sound? Self-appointed “Juice Master” Jason Vale runs the phenomenally popular (he has thousands of devotees, celebrity and civilian) 7Ibs in 7 Days retreat in Göcek in southern Turkey. Based on his best-selling book (this is a man who battles with Harry Potter and The Da Vinci Code for the top spot in book charts) 7lbs in 7 Days Super Juice Diet, the week-long programme sees participants guzzling juice, juice and more juice, along with some carefully chosen supplements. There is a schedule of activities – yoga, tai chi, hiking, volleyball, tennis – which will inevitably give your weight loss a boost. Vale – who was overweight, a heavy smoker and drinker, and suffering from psoriasis and acne before he discovered juicing in the 1990s – is often on hand to offer motivational pep talks, just in case the promise of losing half a stone isn’t enough to keep you from reaching for a cooked snack. This package starts at £700, without flights or transfers. www.juicemaster.com ... CLOSER TO HOME, tucked away in Quarantine Hill in Wicklow town, is a monastic community called The Servants of Love. The eight members live celibate
T
lives and follow Catholic practices, as well as advocating a raw-food diet. And we mean raw: raw vegetables, raw fruit, uncooked “dehydrated” bread and natural fruit juices. Yes, it’s all quite unusual, but they’ve even wowed food critic Paulo Tullio, who called their onsite café “utterly charming”. The group offers classes on a range of subjects, including gourmet raw food, growing your own food, and meditation. There is also a cookbook, Raw in a Cold Climate. www.theservantsoflove.com ... MEANWHILE, we’ve been having raw juices and smoothies delivered to us at our office. Three juices each a day – mostly vegetable mixes and a few fruit smoothies made with the tiniest amount of probiotic natural yogurt – are despatched by raw-food convert Lisa Byrne, whose delivery radius includes south Dublin for now, but is expanding. “I was telling some girlfriends how I was juicing and they said they’d love to do it but couldn’t spend the time. I volunteered to do it and then, gradually, clients were added and it became a business.” She’s just added lightly cooked soups to the menu. www.juice2go.ie
here is an ongoing debate on the sale of raw milk in Ireland. A proposed blanket ban has yet to be put in place, in the face of opposition from a strong raw-milk lobby. A recently published study of more than 8,300 children in rural parts of continental Europe found a significant reduction in asthma development (41 per cent) for raw-milk drinkers. They were also half as likely to develop hay fever as those who drank shop-bought or boiled milk. Scientists link the benefits to whey proteins in the milk that are destroyed in the process of pasteurisation. For more on the campaign for raw milk in Ireland (which is supported by many high-profile chefs, farmers and food producers including Darina Allen, Derry Clarke and Ross Lewis), see www.rawmilkireland.com.
TRAVEL A Manhattan-bound J train streaks across the foreground on its way to the Williamsburg Bridge in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.
MAN in A SUITCASE Ignore the tired, touristy New York, advises TIM MAGEE, and instead seek out the newest food, shopping and bars in the city’s coolest neighbourhoods: Nolita and Williamsburg
N
ew York’s Williamsburg Bridge once spanned all others as the world’s longest. She wore that crown till she was 21 years old, before modernity, money and perpetual demotion meant she was just a pretty bridge in suspenders. She’s relatively small now but her sway has a swagger because she is back on top of the world linking New York’s sexiest coordinates. A working reference point of walkways, driveways and subways that bridges her eponymous neighborhood in Brooklyn to the new crossroads of cool in lower Manhattan, Nolita. The New in New York really means what it says. New York’s city guides are redundant by the time they’re on the shelves. For more than a century, New Yorkers have viewed their town as a fast-moving target of invention, and reinvention, of where to eat, shop, and be entertained this month. Over the last twelve years, I’ve been looking for a non-touristy base camp for tourists, closest to the most change. I’ve finally found that place. Two places actually: Nolita and Williamsburg in Brooklyn. Between them they are a city within a city, the best of now and married by my busy little bridge. Brooklyn, for most blinkered tourists, is still something they pass on their way from the airport to the FitzpatrickHotels-cum-in-flight-promo version of the city, but it’s been the better borough for years. It has competition now in Nolita (the name derives from North of Little Italy), an isle of taste and tastes, whose playground is SoHo,
Exterior of the Nolitan Hotel, Nolita, New York
Chinatown, Little Italy and the Lower East Side. I’m just back from eight fat days in the city. I grazed in 20-odd industry-defining restaurants and shopped till I hopped without once stepping in a chain store, or a cab for that matter. No Fifth Avenue, Times Square or expeditions above 20th Street; I just looped back on concentric circles of galleries, cafés, dining rooms, bars and shopping stars, to the shiny new Nolitan Hotel. The staff at the Nolitan are some of the best in the city and don’t suffer from the yawning-to-fawning bipolarity that permeates most downtown schools of cool. The rooms are Manhattan smallish but have big-deep-breath views of the pointy jewels of the Manhattan skyline: I could comfortably spy the Empire State and Chrysler
Buildings from my bed, shower, and the dinky balcony. The hunting ground below is rich with boutiques and has the biggest concentration of shoe shops I’ve ever seen. New York’s kitchens are on fire in more ways than one at the moment and while our skinny-jean, slow-coach culinary world is still slow poaching everything in water baths, NYC can’t get enough of mixing the oldest cooking tradition with the latest skills. Up-market grilling and wood-fired ovens are the flame-kissing king and queen of the city’s cuisine. Most of the heat is coming from across the bridge in Williamsburg. The best in Brooklyn are Isa and St Anselm, and their passion for fire burns brightly. Cutlery crossed, this primitive modern cooking with wood chips as seasoning will be the newest trend in Ireland by the end of the year. In Manhattan, high-end Italian is the new French, and Locanda Verde at Robert De Niro’s Greenwich Hotel is some of Bob’s best work in decades. Balthazar, by the way, is over; the food is woeful and the restaurant has the atmosphere of the security queue at JFK. One thing that Manhattan doesn’t have much of is neighbourhood but Williamsburg is a real community, albeit an almost painfully cool one, but a proper ’hood nonetheless, with its covetable open boulevards dressed with brilliant one-off boutiques and vintage stores, independent cafés and cinemas. There is a laidback pace of life that couldn’t be more different to the island across the East River, except maybe for Nolita, which is still never too far away because of my nearby darling bridge. ^
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | March 2012 | 67
travel View from a Table: Torrisi iTalian specialTies
ThE hOTEl NolitaN People-watch with a drink in the lobby lounge (left) or check out the views from the balcony room (right).
THe desTinaTion
williamsburg walk
Take a cab from outside the door of the nolItan to the intersection of metropolitan and bedford to set your bearings. wIllIamsburg is the craft beer capital of america and spuyten duyvIl and her equally unpronounceable sister bar, fette sau, are stunning. The names may not roll off your tongue but you’ll find a local handmade beer catbird that will. These sister bars face each other on metropolitan avenue and either is a perfect start for shedding madhattan and resetting your holiday clock to a slower brooklyn pace. Once you hit the wide open low-rise streets of the ’burg, expect the following pattern: vintage shop, boutique you’ve never heard of, bar dressed in distressed materials, thrift store, cakes, proper bookshop, café, vinyl records, 1960s homeware and alfresco dining. weaving your way in and around the tributaries off bedford and metropolitan will give up enough independent shopping for any single trip to the us. amarcord between 4th and 5th on bedford is as polished as vintage shops get. Just a few doors down is a bricks and mortar version of Etsy.com, catbIrd. bIrd – no relation – on grand street isn’t just for birds; there is menswear and homeware too. Pick up some reading material at the incredible spoonhIll & sugartown bookshop and head for a coffee and ethereal pastry at bakerI on wythe. walk back up wythe towards our Isa friend the bridge, past the postcardperfect wythe dIner, past the design studios and the i-wish-i-could-fit-thaton-the-plane furniture shops, right up to the wood-hewn Nordic doors of hip resturant Isa, which acts as the ’burg’s departure lounge.
Williamsburg, Brookyln
amarcord
spuyten duyvil
addrEss bOOk ShoppiNg 218 Bedford Avenue SpooNhill & SugartowN 219 Bedford Avenue Catbird 223 Bedford Avenue amarCord 203 Grand Street bird Eat/driNk 354 Metropolitan Avenue FEttE Sau 359 Metropolitan Avenue SpuytEN duyvil 150 Wythe Avenue bakEri 348 Wythe Avenue iSa
ItalIan food went regIonal and then global a few years ago. It kicked off in the East Village and spread east along the well-worn taste routes across the Atlantic. The osteria hysteria then spread to London, produced Bocca di Lupo, the Polpos and the rest, before (tardily) arriving on Georges Street in Dublin with San Lorenzo’s. It’s old hat now. I’ve spied the future, and the future is behind the lace curtains of Torrisi Italian Specialties on Mulberry Street in Little Italy, NYC. Torrisi’s young owners, Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi, came up with an idea that may look familiar on the outside but is entirely original. Torrisi is a restaurant influenced by the Little – not big – Italy that they grew up in, but also joined at the hip to neighbouring Chinatown, so the terroir is influenced by Asian fermentation and presentation. The result isn’t fusion cooking, just common sense and a lightness of hand that is beautiful to watch and eat. From my perch on the tiny bar, I was just two feet from the finishing touches that were being put to a world of new tastes and textures – like grilled mozzarella with milk thistle; tripe like a soba noodle topped with crispy tripe, peanuts and fermented peppers; gemelli with duck ragu; and a morsel of devilled chicken and heavenly yoghurt. www. torrisinyc.com
bird
catbird
®
Bar Essentials
80 | September 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Surprisingly tasty Nature Valley and associated words and designs are trademarks of General Mills © 2011.
OPENING ON GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN
FEBRUARY 29TH WWW.JOHNBRERETONJEWELLERS.IE 33 Grafton St,
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bo connolly Bookworm / Computer Whizz
denis connolly Architect / Artist / Science Nerd
70 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
This Glossy Life
A
Lotti ConnoLLy Rock Climber / Sims Addict
anne geary Architect / Artist / Flea Market Fan
Family aFFair Irish artistsDenis Connolly anD anne Cleary live inPariswith their two Daughters. DeirDre McQuillan meets them to DisCuss their latest projeCt, an interactivework that combinessCienCe anD visual art photographs by sara niedzwieka
The T hGel o Gslso s MsAM GAG Z IANZeI N| e September | March 2009 2012 | 15 71
this glossy life
At home in the 18th: The family live in a Haussmannian apartment building in the 18th arrondissement of Paris.
I
t was a visit to the magic mirrors room in the famous Jardin d’Acclimatation in Paris two years ago by Irish artists Denis Connolly and Anne Cleary with their young daughters that first set in motion the idea for Hall of Mirrors, a pioneering installation in Farmleigh that opens on March 15 as part of the Dublin City of Science 2012 festival. “We’ve always liked the hall of mirrors and using the idea of a funfair as a promenade through different experiences,” explains Connolly. “This [installation] is about visual perception – all the pieces are immensely visual.” Accompanying them at the time, was Dr Sally Duensing, a visiting professor at Kings College, London and an expert in public science who, along with other scientists from Paris and Dublin, is part of the consultancy team responsible for bringing Hall of Mirrors to fruition. “We had been talking to Sally at the time about what we could do together and as we followed the kids into the hall of mirrors, which is a bit like a maze, Sally laughed and said it looked a bit like our installations. We had been reluctant about doing a project with a scientist, but the idea of doing using mirrors to discover things became something that was in our ballpark as artists rather than theirs. It would take in science, but it would never lose that sense of wonder that our twins had that day.” Visitors to Hall of Mirrors are promised a sequence of stimulating and provocative experiences created by the innovative use of state-of-the-art technology, including seeing the world upside down using specially created helmets or undergoing the strange optical effects of stereo vision. Colour perception, binocular vision, time-delayed imagery or witnessing the magic of a moving body composed of dots will be part of this voyage of discovery aimed at all ages. “The very central issue is a statement about art and art not being about consumerism or decoration, but about community. All our projects are about getting close to people, having people involved and that two-way connection,” says Cleary. Having trained as architects in Ireland, the couple moved to Paris in the 1990s. “We quickly got involved in art rather than in architectural circles and met a lot of people working in sound, video, film and dance who were experimenting
72 | March 2012 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
“We are not artists who want to sell to rich people. We make art about society and connectivity.” with new technologies and that opened up a lot of avenues. We learnt a lot from them,” says Cleary. Their first major piece was a series of videos exploring the meaning of art in a lighthearted but critical way, while another series documented the life around their apartment in Paris. For a while, remuneration from architectural drawing subsidised their art, allowing them the freedom to experiment with artistic collaborations, in what they describe as “entanglements”. Since then, their work with new media has found critical acclaim both in France and elsewhere. In 2009, they won the AIB Prize for emerging Irish artists of exceptional talent. They have exhibited widely in Europe and further afield, at the Pompidou Centre in Paris, the Barbican in London and in Prague, Murcia, Yokohama and Sao Paulo. In Ireland many of their public commissions in Limerick, Dublin, Ballina and Kerry, have involved teenagers and children. “It is very important that our work draws in people of all age groups,” says Cleary. “We don’t want it to be intimidating even if there is a lot of deep content. Education is one of the big things in our work. I was dyslexic as a child.” A recent project, Moving Dublin, explored everyday movement in Dublin and surrounding suburban spaces through video, photographs, ambient sound and interviews and was published as a book and DVD in 2009. Central to their domestic and working worlds are their eleven-year-old twin daughters, Salammbo and Lotte, computer whiz kids. “They have been the first to try out our electronic installations, they have been our guinea pigs – our very willing guinea pigs – and we have turned them into dots and taken them with us to Kerry [for the Joining the Dots project], to lakes in Mayo [for the On Sight stereovision project]”, says Connolly. “They inform our work a lot,” adds Cleary. “You can tell from their reactions if things are working or not. They are our critics.”
Home is the fifth floor of an elegant, fan-shaped Haussmannian apartment in the 18th arrondissement of Paris with portes fenêtres opening onto a wraparound iron balcony and views across the city. “The area was developed with stately apartments in the 19th century as a fashionable district for the new bourgeoisie, but very quickly went downhill,” explains Cleary. “Now it is one of the most diverse in Paris.” Neither knows how to drive, never bothered to learn, and so each day they take their girls to school on the other side of the city on foot scooters; together they “trottinette” down past Opera, along the Tuileries Gardens and across Pont des Arts to the school. “It takes about half an hour each way and on the way home, we stop in a café and a lot of ideas come at that time of the morning,” says Connolly. “We call them our Trotti projects.” Cleary says living in Paris is easy “because schools, transport and medical services are good, which is really important when you have children. And then there are the food markets that are so accessible and easy.” She admits though that “Parisians can be difficult; they’re always prickly and prickly to each other. It’s probably a big city thing.” With family in Ireland and the UK, they keep in touch and are frequent travellers back and forth. “At weekends in Paris we go to openings and the girls OD on computers and Sims video games. Their ideal weekend is two pyjama days because they work at school from 8.15am to 5.45pm and then come home to homework,” says Connolly. Currently, the couple are preoccupied with the Hall of Mirrors project, which will travel to Limerick, the Solstice Centre in Navan and then Ballina after Dublin through an Arts Council Travelling Fund with the possibility of further international travel and exposure. “We are not artists who want to sell to rich people,” says Connolly. “We are trying to make work that is about society, about people and connectivity. As artists we are nomads because we have worked with dance, with theatre, with cities, with architecture, with schools, with scientists and with landscapes. In fact new media makes it possible to work in any context and we are always open to new connections. EM Forster’s ‘only connect’ has always been our motto.” ^ www.connolly-cleary.com/hallofmirrors
onnie is drawing deeply on her finely
definitely-not-from-anywhere-in-or-near-Dublin garda. He
honed skills in the dark arts of deception
made her dismount from the fragile safety of her car and
and persuasion with rather more
demanded she walk the line in her seven-inch Louboutins
purpose than normal. Truth be told,
and obviously evening (from the waist down) attire, and,
she has never been more desperate. She
more drastically, he insisted she remove her Chanel shades
is dealing with a hellish situation from
to reveal a decidedly morning-after face.
which she might never recover.
Rarely
has
she
experienced
such
excruciating
It all started with a well-meaning trawl of Residence
embarrassment and she has had some hard practice in that
in the very late hours after the hunting ground of the
department. The frantic waving, beeping and shockingly
Shelbourne had proved barren. Not surprisingly, given the
gleeful smiles of the other gals, not to mind the dads,
so obviously over-eager, over-painted, not to mind tatty
were 100 per cent unavoidable. She barely registered the
and worn competition, she scooped the prize: an important
indecipherable mumblings of the bloody garda but there
German government-advisory-enforcer-type on shore leave
was no mistaking his determination as he proceeded with
from the rescue vessel Frankfurter. Connie was terrifically pleased with her catch and used her legendary Mata Hari skills to relieve him of some vital tips necessary for survival in Angela-Ireland. After the, ahem, coffee she decided it was time to slip home and had barely got in the front door before the children were up and about and waiting for her to chauffeur them to school. Lord knows they are well able to get themselves to and from school under their own steam, but no amount of
A VIEW FROM THE JEEP
the Breathalyser and Oh Lord, was she over the limit! And yes, if she can ever, ever live down this public and cruel humiliation, she must face the possibility of a ban from driving her umbilically attached vehicle. Connie has to work her not-inconsiderable address book
Disaster: Connie is set to be separated from her beloved jeep. Honora Quinn is privy to the commotion
with more energy and determination than she has given any of her recent projects. She simply must get this thing quashed before it ever reaches a court, and wonders who among her subjects or conquests she could approach for
torturous traffic could ever dissuade her from the daily trip;
down. Putting on her best come-hither face and batting
a favour. Do the Germans in town have influence at local
she simply can’t resist the opportunity to gossip, preen and
her drooping eyelashes against the dark lenses covering
level? An interesting concept that she intends to explore
condescend to all and sundry in the school car park.
her (admittedly gritty) eyes and simpering at her unsmiling
with vigour. She must also get her spin whirling about the
Eschewing her normal hour-long pre-school-run
interlocutor, she was shocked to be suddenly presented with
ghastly school-gate episode and is already brazening it out
grooming session on this particular morning, she just threw
a “morning-after Breathalyser”! A mean low trick she had
at Pilates, blatantly lying to the gals that it was a short film
on an old cashmere coat and large sunnies and, looking
heard about but she never once dreamed it could happen to
being made for Dame Enda so he can back up his claims of
practically perfect from the waist up, jumped into the
her! I mean, would the English Queen get stopped in the
our rampant madness, not to mind penchant for excess, at
driver’s seat. Molly safely deposited, she was about to swing
grounds of Buck House? Precisely!
the next summit. Honestly, the sacrifices she has to make for
into Fionn’s hallowed avenue when a squad car flagged her
No amount of her usually lethal flattery worked with the
this country! ^
Goldie Hawn is an Oscar-nominated actress famous for her roles in Private Benjamin and The First Wives Club. In 2005, she established The Hawn Foundation to support young people in self- and social-awareness, responsible decision-making and relationship skills. Her book on the subject, 10 Mindful Minutes, is published this month
She Does
She Doesn’t
Think the social and emotional unhappiness of children
Believe the children from impoverished, inner-city
is the big issue of our time and is proud of having done something about it.
l Remember
backgrounds are the only ones who need help. “Those
succumbing to peer
kids kill each other, the kids from affluent backgrounds
pressure and stealing a hot-pink skirt when she was
– the ones who are showered with material goods to
twelve. When her mother found out, she took her to
make up for physical and emotional absence – kill
the store to pay for it and then hung it on the back of
themselves” l Like the Jewish-Buddhist label others
her bedroom door, where it stayed for a year, unworn
have affixed to her: “I’m a seeker and a deeply
l
Ride a bike – she’s just back from a cycling holiday in
spiritual person. I’ve studied all religions and there’s
Morocco Want to act again. She’s signed up to star
good in each of them” l Want to be still sitting in
in a pilot of The Viagra Diaries for HBO Credit Julie
the make-up chair when she’s 80 (she’s 66 now) l
l
l
Christie with teaching her to think mindfully Feel happy:
Mind time away from creature comforts: “I love
l
“I was raised well and have so much to be grateful for,
spending time in third-world countries” l Take things
how could I not feel the glow? Plus, if you intend to be
for granted. After her divorce, she worried that she might
happy, there’s action you can take” Live either with or just
never find anyone to make a family with again. And then
l
down the street from her three children. One friend describes
she met Kurt Russell (six years her junior) on the set of Swing
the extended Hawn/Hudson/Russell clan as “like The Waltons” l Believe
her divorce from Bill Hudson was hard on her children but says she didn’t make “grave” parenting errors.
Shift l Care if anyone catches her dancing by herself to loud This month: Goldie Hawn
music in her living room l Go in for woolly thinking. Cuttingedge science underpins all the work of The Hawn Foundation.
T H e G L O s s M A G A Z I N e | March 2012 | 73
IllustratI on by nata lIe C ass Idy
C
over and out
www.chanel.com
BROWN THOMAS, GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2