LEATHER APPENDIX

LEATHER APPENDIX

In this section you will find useful information about the leather:

o Its composition o Its use o How it is worked

Also, you can find out more about the other materials we use as lining for our products.

Leather is a durable and flexible material created by tanning animal rawhide and skins. The most common raw material is cattle hide. It can be produced at manufacturing scales ranging from the artisan to the modern industrial scale. Leather is used to make a variety of articles, including footwear, automobile seats, clothing, bags, book bindings, fashion accessories, and furniture. It is produced in a wide variety of types and styles and decorated using a wide range of techniques. The earliest record of leather artifacts dates back to 2200 BC.

A hide consists of three layers:

o Epidermis: the external part of the skin, removed at the tannery.

o Intermediate layer: the central part and the only one which will be transformed in leather.

The top of this layer is called the hair side (pieno fiore) and differs with each animal; the layer below is called the split (crosta).

o Base: the part between the skin and the flesh, not used by the tannery

The full grain is the top layer of a hide and it’s the most important and valuable part of the hide. Particularly pliable and soft, it lends itself to be used for high-quality products. The most valuable leathers are those which undergo fewer manufacturing processes, since they show the features of the leather.

The intermediate layer of a hide is normally used for making suede; it may be used for polyurethane finishing as well. It’s made by fluffing and smoothing the flesh side of a hide surface to produce a napped surface characterized by different shades obtained by stroking the napped surface against the grain. Modern-day processing has made it possible to obtain very supple leathers of excellent quality. In fact, it is finished with special coatings that make it water-repellent and scratch-resistant.

Crafting

Reverse Stitching: the technique is typically used for making apparel items. Stitching is made on the reverse side and then the material is turned right side out.

Column Machine Stitching: this type of workmanship is typical of boot making. The column sewing machine, where from this type of stitching takes its name, has a very long arm which permits stitching even of parts that are extremely difficult to reach with traditional machines. Rigid and convex shapes with harder materials can thus also be worked.

Clean cut stitching: the technique especially lends itself to working stiffer leathers. It consists in stitching together from the outside two pieces of leather to make up the side of the product called “the hem. ” The hem is subsequently polished to obtain a uniform surface and thickness. The final step consists in varnishing the hem so as to give it the same colour of the leather: the hem is further polished with a clear gloss protective layer that protects it and gives it a richer and more polished aspect.

Gros Grain Lining: Orthogonal fabric is 88% viscose 22% polyammide. It’s used for bags and pouches. Cleaning depends on how the lining is applied. In bag lining, the lining is not attached to the bottom and sides of the product, but around the edge’s perimeter and thus can be taken out. Clean using a damp cloth. Given its structure, avoid vigorous forms of maintenance. Attached lining: the lining is fully attached to the product and cannot be pulled out. Clean using a damp cloth, taking care not to damage the internal stitching

Other Materials

Moiré Lining: the fabric is 100% viscose and is used for wallets. The fabric has a wavy appearence created by a finishing technique called calendering. The fabric is folded in half lengthwise and passed through hot engraved rolls. The pattern is formed from the impression and a natural rubbing of fibers. Since the fabric is the result of a physical phenomenon, any irregularities of the surface are not imperfections but a characteristic of the material. Do not wet or dampen the lining