HOW TO WASH AND CARE FOR LUXURY KNITWEAR Andrea Lotz

Does the idea of washing your luxurious knitwear make you nervous? Every knitter has heard horror stories of handknitted items shrinking in the wash or tall tales of handwashing eating up a whole weekend. Fear not: It is possible to combine care and efficiency in washing even the most precious handknits.

Supplies for hand washing and blocking knitwear.

The proper care of knitwear made with quality wool or luxury yarns will keep these treasured pieces in your wardrobe for years to come. To begin lengthening their wearability, know that you do not need to (nor should you) wash your garments after every wear. You can simply refresh knits with a steamer and a spray, such as Eucalan’s Flatter spray, to freshen their scent and release wrinkles between washes, if needed.

There are two critical times when fully washing a garment is a must: midseason if you wear them often, and at the end of their season to protect before storage. Body oils and perspiration can discolor knits if left unchecked too long, and odors attract pests that can ruin your handiwork.

WASHING YOUR HANDKNITS

The process of caring for your luxury projects is not unlike the blocking process. Start by sorting your projects. Keep bright colors, especially hand-dyed yarns, separate from anything onto which the color might bleed. You may also wish to set aside your most delicate knits, such as those made with mohair, suri, and other specialty yarns, to wash separately.

Here, we walk you through two methods of washing a garment. For both methods, you will need:

• Container: clean utility sink, plastic tub, bathtub, or top-load washing machine;

• Wool wash: a no-rinse wash such as Eucalan Delicate Wash saves water and time;

• Towels: absorbent but nonshedding towels; and

• Flat surface or drying rack: flat surfaces or blocking mats take longer but give more control; a drying rack allows more air circulation but may leave creases or allow fabric to stretch.

WASHING MACHINE METHOD

A top-load machine, which can pause midcycle, can be just as gentle on your handknits as your own hands and will save a lot of time.

Tips before you start:

• If possible, remove the agitator from your machine;

• Use cool water to reduce the risk of felting;

• If you’re concerned that projects will snag, use a mesh garment bag to protect the fabric; and

• Your first time through, sit with the machine and micromanage. Pause your machine often to look at what is happening inside. Note: All washing machines vary. Refer to your owner’s manual for the specifics related to your machine and its capabilities.

Set your machine to “Rinse and Spin” and select your load size. If you have the option, set your spin speed to low and set a soak time of 20–30 minutes.

Once your machine has filled with water, pause the cycle, open the lid, and pour in your wool wash (¼–1/3 cup, or as directed by the label). Swirl with your hand to mix. Add your garments and ensure they are saturated.

If you are able to set a soak time, continue your cycle. If not, keep the machine paused for 20–30 minutes. Beware that machines will automatically drain if you pause too long. So, get to know your machine.

If your wool wash needs to be rinsed out, drain your machine and rinse before you move on. If you used a no-rinse wash, simply allow your machine to continue to the spin cycle. Spinning is safe for knitwear, but you may also choose to remove them from the washer while wet and gently press out water with your hands without wringing.

CONTAINER METHOD

If you don’t have a top-load washing machine with the appropriate settings or you want to wash your most delicate items separately, the container or sink method is the gentlest option.

Submerge the knitted item completely in cool water to which you've added a no-rinse wash such as Eucalan Delicate Wash.

Simply fill a container large enough for your garment with barely warm water and add your wool wash as directed by the label. Swirl to incorporate. Add your knitwear, making sure each item is fully saturated with water.

Let soak for 20–30 minutes, then lift each item out and gently press out the water with your hands. As always, never wring the fabric! Twisting and wringing can cause wool fibers to felt.

DRYING YOUR FRESHLY WASHED GARMENTS

Working with one garment at a time, layer the damp piece between two dry towels and roll into a tube. Press to remove excess water. Again, do not wring!

Arrange your garments on a flat surface, blocking mats, or a drying rack. Choose blocking mats for pieces that require reshaping, such as those with lace. Allow to dry. If weather allows, you can dry your knitwear outdoors, but direct sunlight will fade dyes.

Arrange your freshly washed garment on a blocking mat and gently smooth it into shape, using blocking wires to keep edges straight.

Leave the piece undisturbed until it is completely dry.

It’s crucial for garments to dry completely before storage, especially if you are planning to pack them into airtight containers.

Using the methods outlined above will allow you to care for your knitted garments without sacrificing efficiency! Your sweaters will thank you with decades of long life.