Nfocus April 2020 by FW Publishing

april 2020 The Ballet Ball, Honors Gala, Pairings and more

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cooking Nashvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best chefs share their culinary secrets

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Contents April 2020 | Vol. xxvii, No. 4

parties

departments

In Our Words

Behind the Scenes

14 18 20

Trip to the Chateau An elegant evening at the Ballet Ball Patrons Party

Mmm, Mmm, Good!

Honoring Ron Samuels at How About Dinner and a Movie

Fighting the Good Fight Pairings raises more than $600,000 for cancer research

galas + soirées

Seeing Double

A record-breaking year for T.J. Martell’s Honors Gala

Fit for a King The Nashville Ballet draws inspiration from Versailles for the Ballet Ball

Navigating an April unlike any other

Caterer Johnny Haffner dishes out more than great food

Another delicious year of Soup Sunday for Our Kids

Showtime!

Local nonprofits and volunteers serve those affected by the deadly tornadoes

Graduate Nashville brings a whimsical touch to the city’s hotel offerings

East Nashville’s lou sprinkles creativity into every dish

Nspire

Step Inside

Local Flavor

Taking Vows Claybrook-Newell vows

features 37

What’s Cooking Getting in the kitchen with some of Nashville’s best chefs

Claws, Paws and Jaws, Swan Ball Unveiling, Wine Women and Shoes, Couture Construction and more

Nsider

Expert etiquette advice from John Bridges

Remembering Nashville’s original signature dish

Best Behavior

Nretrospect

ON THE COVER

Chef Julia Sullivan photographed at Henrietta Red by Daniel Meigs. For more on Julia and other local chefs offering culinary classes, check out our What’s Cooking feature on page 37.

6 >> april 2020 | nfocusmagazine.com Contents.indd 6

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nfocusmagazine.com

| APRIL 2020 <<

Editorial

Herbert Fox, Jr. Nancy Floyd managing editor Jonathan Sims associate editor Holly Hoffman social correspondent Gloria Houghland contributors Beth Alexander, John Bridges, Whitney Clay, Geert De Lombaerde, Carrington Fox, Laura Hutson Hunter, Sandy Nelson, Ellen Pryor, Jennifer Puryear, Megan Seling, Abby White, Varina Willse founding editor editor-in-chief

Art

Heather Pierce Eric England staff photographer Daniel Meigs contributing photographers Michael W. Bunch, Steve Lowry, Jen McDonald art director

senior photographer

Production

graphic designers

Mary Louise Meadors, Tracey Starck Christie Passarello

graphic designer /production coordinator

Marketing

events and marketing director marketing manager

Advertising

Ali Foley

Olivia Moye

Jennifer Trsinar Daniel Williams senior account executives Maggie Bond, Debbie DeBoer, Michael Jezewski, Carla Mathis, Heather Cantrell Mullins, William Shutes, Mike Smith, Stevan Steinhart, Keith Wright sales operations manager Chelon Hasty account coordinator Emma Benjamin publisher

advertising director

MOTHER’S DAY

Circulation Business

IN-STORE TRUNK SHOWS Owner

circulation manager

Casey Sanders

president Frank Daniels III chief financial officer Todd Patton creative director Heather Pierce IT director John Schaeffer FW Publishing, LLC

Bill Freeman

Nfocus is published monthly by FW Publishing, LLC. Advertising deadline for the next issue is Thursday, April 16, 2020. A limited number of free copies, one per reader, are available at select retail establishments, listed on the website: nfocusnashville.com. First-class subscriptions are available for $99 per year. Send your name and address along with a check or credit card number and expiration date to: GArY MINNIS, FW PuBLISHING, 210 12th Ave. S., Suite 100, Nashville, TN 37203 or call Gary at 615-844-9307. For advertising information, call DANIeL WILLIAMS at 615-744-3397. Copyright ©2020 FW Publishing, LLC.

APRIL

iN o ur wo rd s

The Great Indoors Thursday, 23 & Friday, 24 TH

Navigating an April unlike any other

MAY

Friday, 8 TH & Saturday, 9 TH

615.724.5464 | KINGJEWELERS.COM 4121 HILLSBORO PIKE, NASHVILLE, TN

The april issue typically hits stands right as the spring social season is kicking into high gear. It’s usually our busiest month of the year, sometimes requiring our Nfocus team to cover as many as 60 events across town. This year is quite different. As I type this letter — from my kitchen table — the city is under a Safer at Home order, most businesses are closed and every event in the foreseeable future has been canceled or postponed. This isn’t exactly the spring we were all anticipating, is it? For 27 years, Nfocus has been the city’s go-to publication for coverage of Nashville’s social scene. It’s strange to release an issue when our social scene has come to a grinding halt. That said, we’re still here. We’re still bringing you great coverage of the city’s best events (that happened

before the order, of course) and showcasing the best that Nashville has to offer. Hopefully, our presence brings a little normalcy to your life during these uncertain times and helps you feel hopeful for the future. And when the future arrives and we’re free to return to our normal lives, I hope the first thing you’ll do is support your favorite local businesses and nonprofits. You can start by signing up for a class at one of the restaurants in our What’s Cooking feature (page 37). If there’s one thing we’ve learned from being stuck at home, it’s that we can all stand to improve our cooking skills. Stay strong, Nashville. Better days are ahead, and when they arrive, we’ll appreciate our time together more than ever before. In the meantime, we’re here if you need us. BY NaNcY FloYd

Nancy is a reader of books, rider of bikes and lover of all things local. She lives in East Nashville with her husband, Kyle, and beagle, Gus. Email her at nfloyd@nfocusmagazine.com.

8 >> APRIL 2020 | nfocusmagazine.com InOurWords.indd 8

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behind the scenes

Serving Joy

Caterer Johnny Haffner dishes out more than great food Nashville native and in-demand caterer Johnny Haffner has been in kitchens most of his life. His mother taught all five of her children to cook, and his first “clients” were his younger brothers. Years later, while teaching at then-Pearl High School, he picked up extra income working in restaurants at night. Johnny says his career has been “like a carousel — round and round, up and down.” Along the way, he’s learned from some of the city’s most prolific chefs, such as Deb Paquette, and he’s worked at some of Nashville’s most respected and popular restauThe Basics rants, including gourmet Julian’s, Music Row hangName: Johnny Haffner out Maude’s Courtyard Profession/Title: Caterer and Belle Meade mainstay Hometown: Nashville Sperry’s. Zip Code: 37215 Since that first caterYears in Nashville: All of them ing job more than 20 years Number of meals donated ago, he’s been making to charity auctions: More people happy at wedthan 2,000 dings, fundraisers and intimate gatherings. However, the best parties he served were the ones he hosted in his home. These pop-up porch parties offered multi-course meals built around a food — say, tomatoes or pears — and tickets sold out quickly. The city put an end to those when they cracked down on home businesses. Luckily for the nonprofit community, he is able to continue a practice he began 17 years ago: Man with a Pan, donating dinners to silent auctions. He does 12 each year for groups of eight now, and the winning bids keep getting higher. It’s obvious he enjoys hosting these. Johnny says, “I love a party. So, if I get to make one, it’s fantastic!” We chatted with the caterer about his favorite dishes, events and spots in Nashville. by Holly Hoffman photograph by Daniel Meigs

What’s on the menu when you have family or friends over for dinner? Pasta. I dig around the pantry and refrigerator, and voilà!

What’s your favorite locally made product? Bang Candy, but I’d rather say my cheese savory bites called Poppys.

What is/are your most requested dish(es)? Besides my potato chips, I would have to say brie bisque, truffle ravioli, deconstructed Waldorf salad and Italian short ribs. Also, chocolate nemesis cookies and honey vanilla ice cream.

For some peace and quiet, what do you do or where do you go? Reading. I try to keep it down to 60 books a year. What are you currently reading? The Beekeeper of Aleppo [by Christy Lefteri]

What is the most unusual or complicated dish you’ve ever made? Turducken

What’s your most valuable possession? My dogs, Jude and Jake

Is there anything you wish you never had to make again? Turducken

When you have out-of-town guests visiting, where do you take them? My kitchen, around my island

What’s the first event you catered? For Vee Vee Scott in 1998, at Brushfire for 15 friends on her birthday

What’s your favorite local event? Music at The Ryman

What’s the most memorable event you’ve catered? Inaugural Conservancy Gala. I grew up in Nashville three blocks away from the Parthenon, and that’s where I played as a child. I would hang out with the guard, and you could tour the galleries for free. It was a great place to go as a kid!

What did you want to be when you grew up? It wasn’t a cook, that’s for sure. My mom says I wanted to be a granddaddy when I grew up. My grandparents lived with us when I was little, and my grandfather was very special to me. What was your first job? Bagging groceries at Kroger at Madison Square

What’s your favorite restaurant? Chaatable. I just love that little box of goodies they start with.

What’s the one thing you hope never changes in Nashville? My address

What’s the best place for cocktails? Any bar that has TC Craft Tequila and a bottle of Coors Light >>

For the full interview with Johnny, visit nfocusmagazine.com.

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PA R T I E S

Trip to the Chateau An elegant evening at the Ballet Ball Patrons Party

Lisa French, Brooke and Josh Trusley

Gus and Jennifer Puryear, Nancy and Mark Peacock

enerous supporters of the Ballet Ball got an inkling of what to expect at the Versailles-inspired gala when they were fêted at an elegant French supper. And there was no more appropriate place to hold the Patrons Party than at the European-style manor of perennial hostess Sylvia Roberts. Upon entering the stately home, guests picked up a glass of Champagne from a large table in the main hall. A gorgeous and grand floral arrangement from Mark O’Bryan at The Tulip Tree atop the table held orchids, pussy willow, tulips and antique garden roses overflowing from a silver vase. Mark created a similarly stunning arrangement for the dining room, as well as other lush bouquets throughout the house. Event planner Bruce Pittman, who oversaw the evening, added an abundance of candles to complete the memorable setting. In keeping with the French theme, two ballerinas perched on the stairway looked as if they had recently arrived from Le Petit Trianon. They watched over the lively crowd, occasionally casting sly smiles at ladies admiring the gleaming diamond pieces from Tiffany & Co. that were featured in the silent auction. The only thing that diverted everyone’s attention was a brief word of thanks from co-chairs Allison Cotton and Emily Humphreys before dinner. While there was no Hall of Mirrors in which to dine, guests settled into plush sofas and at tables set around the house after filling their plates from the abundant buffet. The menu from Dani Kates of d.Kates Catering was as Continental as the setting: parmesan-crusted chicken paillard with lemon caper beurre blanc and a variety of roasted vegetables — spicy broccoli, Provençal new potatoes, radishes and baby carrots — and ratatouille stuffed peppers. Of course, no one could resist the crispy baguettes with French butter — or the chocolate Charlotte Russe with Chantilly creme that provided a delightfully sweet end to the elegant evening.

Joanne and Joe Sowell

BY HOLLY HOFFMAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC ENGLAND

Jeff Stone, Sylvia Roberts, BJ Ambrose, Co-chair Emily and Mark Humphreys

Suann Davis, Lise Morrow, Ellen Martin, Emily Noel

Ian and co-chair Allison Cotton, Bruce Pittman

Joelle and Brant Phillips

Madeline Hanly, Simone Muhammad

Jason Bradshaw and Bob Deal

nfocusmagazine.com

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PA R T I E S

Mmm, Mmm, Good! Another delicious year of Soup Sunday for Our Kids

emember the thrill of Christmas morning? Those few seconds between wondering if Santa came and finally getting your hands on that big ol’ present under the tree? That’s the same eager energy I feel every year as I walk into Nissan Stadium for Our Kids’ annual Soup Sunday. For more than 25 years, the all-you-can-eat charity event has gathered dozens of Nashville’s best chefs and restaurants and challenged them to make the most comforting, creative and delicious pot of soup they can imagine. Attendees and celebrity guest judges vote for their favorites, and all of the money raised benefits Our Kids, the invaluable local organization that helps children and their families begin to heal from the trauma of sexual abuse. This year’s February installment was one of the best yet. More than 1,500 hungry folks lined up to sample more than 35 different soups, stews, broths and chilis. Jim ’N Nick’s served up Brunswick stew, while Little Fib offered up a gumbo. There was even something called a breakfast soup from Aquarium Restaurant! As a vegetarian, I wasn’t able to sample every soup on the menu, but I definitely didn’t go without. I went back for a second cup of the hearty and flavorful street corn soup from Esquina Cantina, and I also loved the vegan creamy golden from SideKicks Cafe. It was loaded with, well, the entire produce section — onion, garlic, carrots, zucchini, broccoli, cauliflower, white beans and potatoes — and spiced with turmeric, sweet smoked paprika and cayenne pepper. As folks slurped up their last sips of soup, the awards were announced: The People’s Choice winner was the mojo shrimp bisque from Broadway Brewhouse, the Judges’ Choice winner was the coconut shrimp with chicharrón and basil from Red Perch, and the award for Most Creative went to the Spanish Fly — chicken and vegetables in a salsa broth served with salsa cream, made by Steaming Goat Food Truck & Catering.

Lyndsay Rowley, Hal Gill

Phillip Fryman, Kristin Beringson

BY MEGAN SELING PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC ENGLAND

Sue Fort White, Ashley Brantley

Trent Wilkinson, Courtney Chester

D.C. and Marcie Smith

Graydon Atchley, Andy Little continued on page 16

14 >> APRIL 2020 | nfocusmagazine.com SoupSunday.indd 14

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PA R T I E S

Kara and Jake VanAusdall

Anne Andress, Barbara Daane, Ron Samuels

Kathleen Briordy, Doug Gortner

Showtime! Honoring Ron Samuels at How About Dinner and a Movie

arbara Daane was clearly clairvoyant 23 years ago, when it dawned on her that the most oft-asked entertainment question during Nashville’s dreary winters had to be this one: How about dinner and a movie? Barbara’s query became the name of one of our city’s most popular events and the signature fundraiser for Park Center, a cherished nonprofit that has served the community for more than 35 years. The highly regarded, and universally adored, Mrs. Daane is a lifetime board member of Park Center and honorary chair of this annual festive and informal affair. The highlight of the evening is the recognition of a special and deserving Nashvillian. The honor this year went to Ron Samuels, an enduring leader and banker in Nashville for the past 40 years. Ron is beloved in our city, having been highly engaged in the community and an enthusiastic friend of Park Center. He was definitely the primary focus of this celebratory gathering. This year’s sold-out crowd — kudos to co-chairs Joanna Hall and Kirsten Schriner — bundled up and made their way to the historic Belcourt Theatre on one of the coldest nights of the year. Once inside, guests enjoyed an online silent auction, a delicious Dani Kates dinner and, of course, a screening of an iconic movie. This year’s feature was The Graduate, Ron’s favorite flick. The scrumptious Southern supper featured chicken croquettes, which is always Barbara’s first choice and a mainstay of this party. The truly fun part of it all is enjoying the event from the coziness of warm theater seats. Make no mistake, patrons share a devoted fondness for this party. There is something about it that is both familial and familiar. Our advice for next February? If asked, “How about dinner and a movie?,” then brave the elements, brace for the cold, head out the door and run, don’t walk, straight over to the Belcourt. You can applaud us for the terrific advice later.

Karen Clark, Jen and Max Fuller

Mark Griffin, Margaret and Tony Heard

Co-chairs Kirsten Schriner and Joanna Hall

BY GLORIA HOUGHLAND PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANIEL MEIGS

Abby Nassar, Caroline Brzozowicz

Anastasia Brown, Whitney Daane, MJ Witt

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PA R T I E S

John Dwyer and Lynley Miles Hammes, Amy Law

Malcolm and Martha Greenwood

Co-chairs Alex and Kris Marks

Fighting the Good Fight Pairings raises more than $600,000 for cancer research Carl and Connie Haley

Co-chairs John and Jennifer Steele

Brian and Jordan Fuente

Co-chairs Gary Rzucidlo and Lori Latusek, Holly and Mark Whaley

he Nashville Wine Auction’s annual Pairings event is more than just a three-day celebration for oenophiles. It’s also an opportunity for Nashville’s wine community to unite and fund the fight against cancer. To date, the Nashville Wine Auction has raised more than $26 million. The fun — and the fundraising — kicked off on Thursday night with 11 private vintner dinners held in various restaurants and homes around the city, where attendees enjoyed multi-course meals from some of Nashville’s favorite chefs and mingled with winemakers. Participating chefs included Hal Holden-Bache (Lockeland Table), Andy Little (Josephine) and Kristen Winston (Kristen Winston Catering). On Friday, wine lovers headed to City Winery for Wined Up!, a lively, laid-back wine-tasting party. As guests arrived, helpful volunteers ushered them to the venue’s main room, where they could sample wines from 32 vintners. The event once again featured the popular Collectors’ Showcase floor upstairs, where guests enjoyed offerings from Roy Estate, Senses Wines, The Spire Collection, Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery, Staglin Family Vineyard and ZD Wines. Guests returned on Saturday for the sold-out main event, the Pairings dinner, a six-course gourmet meal featuring pairings with incredibly special wines. Emceed by The 404 Kitchen’s Matt Bolus, the dinner included delectable dishes from chefs Chris Allen (City Winery), Kevin Ramquist (The Unicorn Nashville), Joe Townsend (360 Bistro), Tony Galzin (Nicky’s Coal Fired), Andrew Whitney (M Street) and Burke Conley (G Catering). But the real showstopper was the amount of money raised in the evening’s live auction, which featured an exciting battle over the impressive Judgment of Napa lot, giving one lucky winner the opportunity to serve as a judge at the Judgment of Napa event in May. Another favorite was the Virginia Kweller lot, named in honor of the longtime Nashville Wine Auction volunteer and past event co-chair, who is currently fighting breast cancer. Overall, the event raised 20 percent more than the previous year, dedicating even more funds for the treatment, patient care and eradication of cancer in Middle Tennessee. BY ABBY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEN MCDONALD AND WEATHERLY PHOTOGRAPHY continued on page 22

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PA R T I E S

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David Osborn, Rachel and Jason Casey

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Scott Peterson and Loren Chumley

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GALAS & SOIRÉES

Charles Esten

Seeing Double

A record-breaking year for T.J. Martell’s Honors Gala

Vince Gill and Amy Grant

Jess Rosen, Joe Galante

onumental! That’s the word T.J. Martell Foundation CEO Laura Heatherly used to describe the 12th annual Honors Gala. She and co-chairs Jensen Sussman and Steve Buchanan were already thrilled because they expected 800 guests — twice the usual number. But when the party ended, they were overwhelmed by the show of support from attendees. The Honors Gala brings together prominent members from the music, business, medical and social communities, and they filled the Omni Nashville Hotel to mix and mingle during the bustling cocktail hour. Across the room, honorees and presenters hit the red carpet, including Charles Esten, who returned to emcee for the eighth time. Everyone eventually moved into the ballroom, which Hugh Howser of H Three Events embellished with dramatic lighting, sequined tablecloths and lush floral arrangements by Tim Riffle. The main draw of the night is the chance to honor individuals who have made significant contributions to their professions and inspired the community with their philanthropic deeds. To begin the program, the Medical Research Advancement Award went to Jordan Berlin of the VanderbiltIngram Cancer Center, and real estate developer Pat Emery received the Spirit of Nashville Award. Rascal Flatts performed for Laurie and Jim Seabury, who were presented with the Lifetime Humanitarian Award. One-of-a-kind musical moments always make this event noteworthy. Before Reba McEntire handed Amy Grant the Tony Martell Outstanding Entertainment Achievement Award, Vince Gill performed and was accompanied by their daughter, Corrina, on the piano. And no one was more surprised than Clint Higham when Kenny Chesney appeared onstage as the star’s manager stepped up to accept the Joel A. Katz Music Is Medicine Chairman’s Award. The most remarkable part of the night? The Honors Gala more than doubled the previous year’s proceeds and raised over $1 million for cancer research — a record-shattering amount!

Laura Heatherly, Brad Peterson, Ree Guyer

Co-chair Steve Buchanan, Steve Moore

BY HOLLY HOFFMAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANIEL MEIGS Laurie and Jim Seabury, Rod Essig

Derek and Sarah Besenius

Andrea and Jon Santana, Jackie Augustus, Brett Truitt

Pat Emery, Michelle Crace, Al Ganier

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GALAS + SOIRÉES

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Sonya Hairston, Roland and Susan Jones

Fit for a King The Nashville Ballet draws inspiration from Versailles for the Ballet Ball

Gabrielle Hannafan, Krystal Clark, Kelly Bahiraei

Caroline Hillard, Stefanie Carter, Lauren McCarthy, Caylan Jarman

Allison Freeman

his year, the Nashville Ballet turned Leap Day into a grand jeté at the 31st annual Ballet Ball. Inspired by the Palace of Versailles, the black-tie gala was a night of opulent glamour celebrating the esteemed Nashville Ballet, its collaborative spirit and its commitment to education and community enrichment. Co-chairs Allison Cotton and Emily Humphreys relied on event planner Bruce Pittman to transform the Schermerhorn Symphony Center into the French palace of King Louis XIV. Lush, draping floral arrangements from Forget Me Not Designs paired with soft candlelight and mirrored accents set an elegant and sophisticated backdrop for the evening’s festivities. For dinner, French wines were poured freely to complement Kristen Winston’s menu that began with a cheese plate before an entrée of boeuf bourguignon. A delicate and scrumptious meringuetopped chocolate cake was a satisfying end to the meal. The highlight of this event is always the live performance from local musical artists and dancers from the Nashville Ballet. Singer-songwriter Rayland Baxter started things off with a performance of his hit song, “Casanova,” which featured a

Ian and co-chair Allison Cotton, Co-chair Emily and Mark Humphreys

continued on page 28

Sandra and Larry Lipman

Evan Malone, Linda Rebrovick, Robin and Travis Dunn

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GALAS + SOIRÉES

Emily Ireland-Buczek, Jacob Machmer Janie Berry, John and Courtney McLarty

cheeky appearance by Marie Antoinette herself. He performed two other songs, “Olivia” and “Angeline,” before joining country superstar Maren Morris for an emotional rendition of her single, “The Bones.” The very adorable — and very pregnant — Maren finished out her set with “Once” and a strippeddown version of her chart-topping pop song, “The Middle,” each performance showcasing the diversity and talent of the ballet’s team of choreographers and dancers. Following the performance, the Late Party kicked into high gear, thanks to tunes from Sing a Song Band. Guests stayed on the dance floor until well after midnight, a fitting and fabulous end to a party that King Louis XIV himself would’ve surely enjoyed. Flip and Laurie Rice, Tara Scarlett and Michael Peacock

BY NANCY FLOYD PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC ENGLAND, DANIEL MEIGS AND MICHAEL W. BUNCH

Kevin and Katie Crumbo

Adrienne McRae Elise and Matt Bobrowski, Katie and John Myers

Alex Little, Kristin Cantrell

Shalaé Boyd, Yvette Boyd

Merry and Johnny Moore

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GALAS + SOIRÃ&#x2030;ES

Mary Perkins, Seenu Reddy and Meera Ballal, Dallas Wilt, Betsy Hammond

Colette Tilinski, Gerald Watson

Alexa Lipman, John Paul Horstmann

Stephen and Marci Houff, Shawn Wilson and Lance Gruner

Taylor Berry, Drake and Christina Jarman, Ann Parker Weeden, Dave Hanson

David Mahanes, Dionne Lucas

Sarah and Rick Reisner

Steve Sirls and Allen DeCuyper

Sylvia Bradbury, Nancy Cheadle continued on page 32

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GALAS + SOIRĂ&#x2030;ES

Nic and Gracey Donahue

Kaylee Wilson, Greg Lemons, Gail Greil, Kim Bringle

Mark and co-chair Emily Humphreys

Ian and co-chair Allison Cotton

Joelle and Brant Phillips

Roderick Belin, Memorie White

Julie Schneider

Matt Dixon and Laura Kilgore

Jay Jones and Rob Turner

Ashley and Hunter Herring

Casey Chollet-Lipscomb and Ryan Lipscomb continued on page 34

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GALAS + SOIRÃ&#x2030;ES

Sarah and Judson Veach, Katie Vasilopoulos, Matt Ramos

Kayla Rowser Tazik and Nick Tazik

Steve Shankle, Brian Jackson, Mary Jo Shankle, Roger Moore

Crystal and Victor Evans

Gerald Onuoha

Chris Lomas, LaDonna Boyd

Julia and Jared Winegrad

Vince Dreffs, Clare Armistead, Amos Gott

Ralph and Suann Davis, Emily Davis, Max Davis

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F E AT U R E

Getting in the kitchen with some of Nashvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best chefs

Nashvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary scene looks dramatically different today than it did when we began working on this story. Months ago, we had the idea to highlight some of the cooking and baking classes that local chefs were offering in their establishments. Our team checked out six food and beverage classes over the past several weeks. Three are profiled here, and the other three will be highlighted in our next issue. Little did we know that by the time this issue hit stands, restaurants across the city would be closed indefinitely due to COVID-19. Like all local businesses, restaurants need community support now more than ever. Find out more about the classes typically offered and sign up for one when the Safer at Home order is lifted. In the meantime, show some love to your favorite local eateries by purchasing takeout or delivery or buying a gift card online. Stay safe, Nashville. And happy cooking! nfocusmagazine.com

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f e at u r e

Macaron Magic

Mastering the art of French cookies with D’Andrews Bakery French macarons have become especially popular over the past few years for good reason: They’re the perfect treat. The almondbased cookie shell has a light, crispy exterior, a sweet and chewy interior, and they can be filled with anything from buttercreams and jams to rich ganaches and curds, making them the ideal vehicle to cater to any craving. The catch? They can be especially fussy little cookies. If you’ve tried to make macarons at home, you know there’s a fine line between picture-perfect results and an inedible, sticky mess; it can come down to how old your eggs are, how much you’ve mixed the batter and even the day’s weather. But in his Macarons 101 class, chef David Andrews, owner of downtown’s D’Andrews Bakery & Cafe, makes macarons less intimidating — fun, even! Over the course of the three-hour class, David reveals all the tricks he’s learned the hard way as a pastry chef in both Nashville and New York, where he worked at Gotham Bar & Grill and the Kimberly Hotel. His recipe is simple: egg whites, super-fine sugar, powdered sugar, almond flour and just a touch of salt. And his technique is just as approachable. In a small group of about eight students, we all got to see, taste and feel our way through every step of David’s process. And once the batter was ready, the class got fully handson, as we all took turns practicing our piping skills. The most popular shape was the basic round cookie, of which we piped dozens. (The trick, David taught us, is to use one hand

to separate the pastry bag into two smaller sections, resulting in better control). But David also encouraged us to experiment with different designs, showing us how we could make macarons shaped like hearts and bunnies and even letters and numbers. While the cookies set — that’s another trick, the piped cookies have to rest for at least 30-45 minutes — David also prepared for us his versatile pastry cream, and he shared the secrets of his made-from-scratch, pectin-free jam recipe, both of which make delectable macaron fillings. Once the cookies were baked, we were able to finely tune those piping skills once more to fill each sandwich with strawberry, cherry and raspberry jams and chocolate and vanilla mousseline cream (pastry cream whipped with a specific ratio of butter). And then came the especially fun part: the decorating. Andrews brought out the pastry brushes and food paint (he mixes powdered food coloring with the tiniest splash of vodka, which dries much faster than water), and we used the brushes to paint and splatter bright colors all over our cookies, just as they appear in the bakery’s pastry case. The true test came a week later, though, when I gave the recipe a go in my home kitchen. Would the recipe work without the watchful eye of a pastry professional? They turned out beautifully! My piping needs a little more work, but they tasted great. I’ll never allow myself to be intimidated by a cookie again. by Megan Seling photographs by Daniel Meigs

Pastry Classes at D’Andrews Bakery Includes: Three-hour hands-on class, pastries, take-home recipes Frequency: Three classes per month Cost: $65-95 per person Additional info: All ages welcome, inquire beforehand about dietary restrictions To sign up: dandrewsbakery.com/events

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f e at u r e

Cooking Classes at The Party Line Includes: Three-hour hands-on class, food and drinks, take-home recipes Frequency: Once a month Cost: $100 per person or $550 per person for all six classes; One-hour online classes offered for $15-75 per person Additional info: 18 and older, schedule to be announced on or near May 1 To sign up: thepartyline.co/cooking-classes

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On the Line In the kitchen with Julia Sullivan

Ever imagine a three-time James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist teaching you how to cook? It’s time to quit daydreaming and sign up for cooking classes with chef Julia Sullivan of Henrietta Red and its sister catering company, The Party Line. The Party Line grew out of repeated requests from restaurant patrons for offsite events, and, since launching last fall, it has catered everything from intimate dinner parties to sold-out fundraisers. The classes are a natural extension of Julia and her team’s ability to tap into what people want. Her offerings during the University School of Nashville’s evening classes always sold out, and she recognized that people were looking for opportunities throughout the year. With Henrietta Red pastry chef Caitlyn Jarvis, Julia developed a lineup of six classes, which can be taken individually or as an entire package, to be held at The Party Line’s kitchen in the Schermerhorn Symphony Center and at Julia’s house. Participants will gain the skills — and confidence — to throw a great party, learning how to cook a dish, how to serve it and what to drink with it. “It’s really gratifying to connect with people over the meal you just made,” Julia says, so everyone shares the results at the end.

Although the classes are temporarily suspended, Julia and her team invited us to Henrietta Red to see what to expect at Knife Skills 101: The Essentials. While serenely slicing peppers and onion for fresh salsa, Julia explains that, in every class, you’re assigned to a station to practice what’s been demonstrated before dividing into teams to assemble the meal — in this case, pulled chicken tostadas and black beans and rice to go with the salsa. Then, for a hint about Seafood 103: Breaking It Down, Julia emerges from the kitchen carrying an eight-pound red snapper. In this class, you learn to butcher a fish and make her snapper crudo! You’ll also leave knowing the correct way to shuck oysters. “People think it’s something you have to put a lot of force into, [but] … ” she explains while effortlessly opening a shell, “it’s a super-gentle motion.” While the classes are on hold, Julia is now hosting live streaming sessions. The first one was a virtual version of Knife Skills 101, and The Party Line delivered the necessary ingredients to anyone who didn’t have them. People broke down a chicken, made knife cuts and prepared stock. In about an hour, they learned to make coq au vin, which they served to their families for a comforting Friday night dinner. by Holly Hoffman photographs by Daniel Meigs

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The Chauhan Must Go On Learning to cook with Maneet Chauhan

A flash of bright orange flames licked at the air to my left. When I stepped away from the heat, a chef called out, “Behind you!” as he cut through the room with what appeared to be the world’s largest and sharpest knife. And I was very obviously no longer in my home kitchen. Every six weeks or so, for $150 a person, celebrity chef Maneet Chauhan opens Tánsuŏ’s kitchen to the general public, allowing a few dozen amateur cooking enthusiasts to participate in a fun, hands-on and fast-paced crash course in cooking. The day starts with endless glasses of Champagne and ends with an all-you-can-eat, family-style meal, and through it all, everyone is laughing, learning and just trying not to get burned or cut in the process. On this particular Saturday, there were eight different stations with three to six participants assigned to each. One group was in charge of the lobster spring rolls with black vinegar dipping sauce, another focused on preparing the Asian Napa cabbage salad with miso pineapple dressing. The drink station, mixing up strawberry mint sangria — the secret, Maneet told us, is using a combination of fresh and frozen fruit — was especially popular. I was assigned to the dessert station, aka the coconut fruit sushi station. Having never rolled sushi before, I was prepared to look like

a fool, but Maneet’s assistants taught us the professional tricks for chopping a variety of fruit — pineapple, mango, dragonfruit and kiwi — and then Maneet herself popped by for a quick sushi-rolling lesson (and some selfies). And you know, it wasn’t as hard as it looks. (Still, I have much respect for the professionals.) Once everyone mastered the skills needed for their assigned dish, we were encouraged to hop on other production lines to try our luck at stir-frying beef and snow peas in the wok and folding delicate pork dumplings. Amidst all the bustle and energy, no one was hurt, and we all celebrated with a delicious family-style lunch, passing around bowls and platters heaped with evidence of our hard work. As we ate, Maneet answered questions and laughed about how she came to accidentally appear in a Hallmark movie (titled, of course, The Secret Ingredient), and she happily posed for photos and signed copies of her cookbook, too. With bellies full, we were encouraged to stuff any leftovers into a to-go box and were also given packets of all the recipes we made, with Maneet encouraging us to make everything again at home and play with our own combination of flavors and ingredients. As Maneet said, they may be her recipes, but “You are the person who adds soul to every dish you’re cooking.” by Megan Seling photographs by Daniel Meigs

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Cooking Class with Chef Maneet Chauhan Includes: Three-hour hands-on class, food and drinks, take-home recipes Frequency: Once a month or as Maneetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s schedule allows Cost: $150 per person Additional info: Must be 21 or older, some dietary restrictions can be accommodated To sign up: tansuonashville.com/tickets or events@tansuonashville.com

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| APRIL 2020 <<

Standing Together Local nonprofits and thousands of volunteers serve those affected by the deadly tornadoes On March 3, residents of North Nashville, Germantown, East Nashville, Donelson and beyond awoke to find their neighborhoods unrecognizable after deadly tornadoes ripped through a 53-mile swath of the city shortly after midnight. Just blocks from my home in East Nashville, the community looked like a war zone from the destruction of a storm so powerful it leveled buildings and lifted homes off their foundations. As dawn broke and news of the devastation began to spread throughout Middle Tennessee, many local nonprofits sprung into action. Nashville never shines as brightly as it does when faced with a great need. Within hours, The Community Foundation of Middle Tennessee activated the Middle Tennessee Emergency Response Fund to support the impacted communities and the nonprofit organizations serving them. Within a week, more than $6.5 million was pledged to the fund, including $1 million gifts each from Taylor Swift and the Titans Foundation. Initial grants were issued to 27 nonprofits across Davidson, Wilson and Putnam counties in the week following the tornadoes. The day after the storm, our Nfocus team volunteered with Gideon’s Army, a grassroots organization serving families in North Nashville. Bumper-to-bumper traffic snaked into the Northwest YMCA, as hundreds of volunteers arrived to serve and hundreds more dropped off donations for those in need. We worked alongside the Gideon’s Army team at the Northwest YMCA sorting donations, packing toiletry bags and shower kits, and organizing food before moving on to McGruder Family Resource Center, a makeshift donations hub. While there, we helped move and sort donations and served as shoppers for displaced individuals and families. Shell-shocked survivors arrived in need of the most basic supplies for themselves and their children, many of whom were sleeping on couches or floors of friends and family members. Donations were carefully organized around the gym to allow for easier “shopping” — diapers, wipes, baby food, sippy cups, toys, books and other child essentials stretched along one entire side of the space, while various stations were set up offering blankets and sheets, toiletries and personal hygiene products, cleaning supplies and paper goods, clothing for kids and adults of all sizes and ages, and food and water. Victims were overcome with emotion and gratitude as they shuffled through the space, often in a daze as they tried to wrap their minds around all that they needed to prepare for the coming days and provide for their loved ones. Even in the midst of such great need, everyone was careful not to take too much, leaving plenty for their neighbors in need. By Friday, the call for donations was still great, as Gideon’s Army and the Community Resource Center worked tirelessly to assess needs and communicate with the community. A few colleagues and I decided to make a Costco and Target run and put out a call on social media for anyone who’d like to contribute. Within 12 hours, we had collected more than $5,000 in donations from friends and family near and far who wanted to help. Equipped with the latest list of needs from these two organizations, we spent nearly all day purchasing supplies — everything from headlamps to sleeping bags to baby formula to toothpaste. And when one list called for chocolate, we bought bags and bags of chocolate. We delivered four carloads of supplies to Gideon’s Army and Community Resource Center by the day’s end and were astounded by the number of volunteers helping to collect and organize donations, keeping this massive operation running smoothly and efficiently. On Saturday, Hands On Nashville (HON) had organized and deployed thousands of volunteers to canvass neighborhoods and clean up debris. Within two days of the tornadoes, more than 30,000 volunteers had signed up to serve on the organization’s website. HON worked in tandem with the mayor’s office and regional organizations to provide daily updates on the areas in need. So many volunteers showed up to help that many of the scheduled service opportunities on Saturday afternoon and Sunday were canceled because they had already been completed. As we served in East Nashville, the community outpouring of love and support was overwhelming. Parents with young children pulled wagons down storm-ravaged streets so their kids could offer bottled water, snacks and handwritten notes to volunteers. Local restaurants drove around on golf carts bringing hot meals to homeowners and workers alike. Everywhere I went throughout the week, I ran into someone I knew. Community leaders, coworkers, colleagues, neighbors and friends. There’s a reason Tennessee is nicknamed The Volunteer State. The tornadoes wrought devastating destruction upon thousands, but the city and the state showed up. Nashville may be growing and changing — sometimes at such a rapid clip that it feels hard to keep up — but this recent disaster showed that, at its core, Nashville is still a small, loving, close-knit community. And Nashville stands together. May we continue to stand together through whatever comes next. To make a donation to the Middle Tennessee Emergency Response Fund, visit cfmt.org. To learn more about volunteer needs, visit hon.org. by Nancy Floyd photographs by Eric England and Daniel Meigs

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step inside

Drink and Dine Marc Rose and Med Abrous of Los Angeles cocktail lounge The Spare Room and Chinese restaurant Genghis Cohen are overseeing food and beverage offerings at Poindexter, the lobby coffee bar; Miss Bessie’s, the rooftop restaurant (with dipping pool), and Cross-Eyed Critters Watering Hole, a karaoke bar with a backup band composed of a robotic bear, pig and fox. “This is where you let your hair down,” says Marc, “and you get on stage and your do your thing.” For those mourning Taco Bell, there’ll be a late-night taco truck outside.

New School Graduate Nashville brings a whimsical touch to the city’s hotel offerings They say those four years at college are the best years of your life. Graduate Hotels is banking on it. For Vandy grads who want to stroll down memory lane or for anyone who just wants to soak up a little collegiate atmosphere, the Chicago-based chain, in conjunction with AJ Capital, has recently opened a 205-room hotel at 101 20th Ave. N., just steps away from Vanderbilt. The design details, created in-house, are meant to establish a “sense of place,” says Jennifer Winkel-Heffron, director of sales and marketing. Colorful cowboys are painted on lampshades, and the three stars of Tennessee are woven into oriental rugs. “I think, nowadays, when people are traveling, it’s very different from the Marriott 30 years ago, when you wanted to stay in the same room, no matter what city you were in,” says Jennifer. “If you want to be traveling in the United States, you want to experience these cities at their fullest and celebrate them, and these Graduate Hotels allow you to do that.” The front desk is designed to replicate a 1950s or ’60s record player with actual working speakers. A needlepoint portrait of famed country music star Minnie Pearl by artist Margaret Timbrell hangs behind it. A 1950s neon “Vacancy” motel sign from the recently closed Polk Motel in Columbia, Tennessee, is displayed prominently in the lobby. The ceiling is painted a pale blue, an ode to porch ceilings in the South painted “haint” blue, because as legend has it, it was believed to keep evil spirits away. Another advantage? The color is believed to discourage bugs and birds from nesting. “There are a lot of small architectural details that I think were very thoughtful, again, making the Graduate Nashville really part of Nashville,” says Jennifer. In the lobby, multiple sofas in multi-colored stripes, black-and-white checks and red velvet are positioned bleacher style. They are accented by paintings honoring fast-food favorites Checkers and Taco Bell that formerly occupied the location. For sporting events, a large-screen TV can be brought in so visitors can watch the game. At the far end of the lobby is Poindexter, a coffee bar with pink leather counter stools and unexpected crystal chandeliers. Just past the cafe are seating areas with metallic gold leather sofas framed by floral wallpaper and oriental rugs. “All the hotels I’ve seen are brown and grays and subdued — kind of less is more,” says Jennifer. “We are more is more.” by Whitney Clay Photographs by Andrea Behrends

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Stay and Sleep Rooms and suites are colorful, with elaborate detail. Canopied beds with velvet headboards lean against pink-and-white striped wallpaper, accented by portraits of country stars, such as Dolly Parton and Emmylou Harris. The family suite includes one room that has twin beds with headboards shaped like acoustic guitars, a bench resembling a horse, and a pale green table and chairs sitting atop colorful rugs. Prices typically range from $179 to $360 for a king and from $329 to $629 for a suite, depending on the season.

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l o c a l f l av o r

Something New at Lou The East Nashville eatery sprinkles creativity into every dish

photographs by daniel meigs

It’s a good thing construction on the large covered back porch wrapped up before springtime arrived in earnest, because with the way word-of-mouth is spreading about chef-owner Mailea Weger’s darling, dazzling eatery, lou is going to need every square inch of seating space it can muster. It’s no wonder the good news about the good food is spreading so quickly. Did you see that stack of roasted banana buckwheat pancakes headed across the room? Or the searing dish of baked eggs with sautéed escarole, fermented honey garlic and chorizo with charred sourdough for dipping? How about that luscious Instagram feed filled with plates that look like edible masterpieces of contemporary art — schnitzel with winter citrus and preserved lemon aioli or key lime custard with candied coriander and salted Meyer lemon? Since opening this fall in a cool, creamy Craftsman in Riverside Village, lou has been luring diners from both sides of the Cumberland to its intimate dining rooms, where the bungalow’s spare and cream-colored walls provide an elegant canvas for Mailea’s colorful, creative, vegetable-forward cuisine and roster of all-natural wines and wellness elixirs. In quaint quarters that recall the early days of Nashville’s restaurant scene, Mailea and co-conspirators, including beverage director Tony Aquilina and pastry chef Sierra Cody, infuse their eatery with equal parts neighborhood coziness and worldly sophistication, suited both to daytime or dinner. Even on lou’s succinctly manageable menu, there are so many new flavors to explore, it’s impossible to take it all in at once. Plan ahead for a return trip, but make sure to make a reservation, too. by Carrington Fox

What to expect

Why to go

What to order

Expect to try something new — whether it’s a single novel ingredient or an innovative combination of flavors. From fennel-sage-andclove soda and a wellness elixir with CBD, carrot, cinnamon, ginger and mole bitters to beets with candied coriander and vegan celeriac bacon, dare to dabble in flavors and presentations you haven’t seen before. Mailea’s bold experimentation, inspired by culinary career experiences from California to France, just might introduce you to an overlooked ingredient or a surprising layering of flavors that becomes a new favorite, just as lou becomes a new favorite dining destination.

Go to lou for a long, lazy brunch any day of the week, for an afternoon aperitif, or for a wine-laced dinner leading through courses of seldom-seen organic and biodynamic offerings. Add lou to your list of vegetable-forward eateries with generous gluten-free offerings, enough protein to delight the carnivores at the table and a decadent dessert roster for the sweet teeth in your party. Now that the rear patio is complete, add lou to your list of favorite outdoor dining spots, just in time for summer in Riverside Village.

For a barometer of the creativity on offer, sample the fried eggs with fennel bacon and toast. The deceptively simple-sounding dish arrives with a side of honey-pepita butter for slathering on charred wheat toast and a golden confetti of flower petals. You might say the salade Nicoise with jammy egg is always greener than the citrus salsa verde on the other side of the table at lou, because no matter what you order, you’ll wish you had what someone else has.

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12 >> APRIL 2020 | nfocusmagazine.com

TA K I N G V O W S

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHELLE PREAU

brook y la C y la s Mary Pick marries el Newell a h c i M n Joh

Mary “Molly” Claybrook, daughter of Cammie and John Claybrook of Nashville, and John Newell, son of Debbie and Gordon Newell of Mandeville, Louisiana, met in 2016 in New Orleans while she was in nursing school at Louisiana State University and he was a recent graduate with a bachelor’s degree in civil engineering. John proposed in February 2019 in a garden at Rosedown Plantation in St. Francisville, Louisiana. Planning to marry in the spring of 2020, the couple scheduled their engagement party for September 20, 2019 — the Friday night before the LSU-Vanderbilt football game — when many of their friends would be coming to Nashville. Plans changed, however, over Easter weekend, when Molly and John realized

they didn’t want to wait another year to tie the knot. “We decided to marry on the date already set for the engagement party but to keep the ceremony secret and more intimate,” explained Molly. The Rev. Lissa Smith officiated the Friday morning ceremony at Christ Church Cathedral with only 35 family members and close friends in attendance. A wedding luncheon followed on the terrace at Belle Meade Country Club. That evening, as many out-oftown friends arrived for the “engagement” party at The Old School, Molly’s father asked them to gather in the barn for an announcement. “I’m not sure how to tell you this, but Molly and John decided this morning to terminate their engagement,” he said with a dramatic pause before continuing, “because

they married this morning!” The barn doors opened, and the bride and groom walked out onto the dance floor amidst thunderous applause. The festive evening of dining and dancing to the music of the Erik Blue Band ended with a Second Line parade. The next day, they all gathered for a tailgate brunch to cheer on the LSU Tigers against the Vanderbilt Commodores. After a wedding trip to Sugar Beach Resort in St. Lucia, the couple settled in Madisonville, Louisiana. Molly is a registered nurse at Ochsner Medical Center, and John is a civil engineer at Rimkus Consulting Group, both in New Orleans.

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More than 600 women — and quite a few men — filled the Music City Center for the YWCA Nashville and Middle Tennessee’s Wine Women and Shoes. Cochairs Lucia Folk, Cameron Simmons and Laquita Stribling rounded up something for everyone, including tastings from top vintners and outstanding trips to Napa Valley and the French Riviera that were snapped up in the live auction. Only in its eighth year, the afternoon of sipping and shopping raised a recordbreaking $400,000 to support the YWCA’s Domestic Violence Services programs.

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Katie and Kevin Crumbo opened their lovely Belle Meade home to members of the Claws, Paws and Jaws Society, the most generous supporters of the Nashville Zoo. President Rick Schwartz provided an update on projects and exhibits at the popular park. It’s hardly a zoo event without a few animal ambassadors in attendance. Guests were delighted to mingle with some furry and feathered friends, but some were a bit startled by the enormous red-tailed boa constrictor that wanted to join in the fun.

When John Lutz agreed to host the Swan Ball Unveiling, he couldn’t have imagined the number of people that would fill his spacious Forest Hills home to hear the well-guarded details about the white-tie gala. Attendees welcomed Tara Guérard, noted style expert and the event’s designer, and admired treasures from featured jewelers, Verdura and Belperron. The biggest surprise came when co-chairs Anne Maradik and Jane Anne Pilkinton revealed that Tony Award-winner — and voice of Frozen’s Elsa! — Idina Menzel will be the featured entertainer.

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best b e h av i o r

Making the Cut Expert etiquette advice from John Bridges

The SelecT Few In a couple of months, my husband and I are hosting our 25th wedding anniversary dinner. We’re planning a quiet, black-tie dinner at a nice restaurant. We plan to spend the evening with our best friends — or at least some of them. The room can only seat so many. Our invitations are ready to go out, with RSVP cards and envelopes enclosed. Word has gotten around, and friends are sending us emails or texts, saying they want to know the date. Some of them did not make the list. Single friends, who are sure of being invited, have already asked if they can bring a guest. This will be a sit-down dinner and will cost us a pretty penny. How do we deal with this like grownups? — Anonymous, Hillwood Don’t get defensive about your dinner party planning, or the guest list. Cutting the list hurts, but you’ve done it. Blame the size of the dining room. It’s a handy excuse, but it’s the right reason, too. Once the invitations go out, people will get the message. But if you don’t want to sever ties with people whom you like (or love), you’ll have to return their messages. Be glad they haven’t called. This time, texts and emails will save you from making the same explanation again and again and again. You don’t plan to spend the entire evening in doldrums, so don’t say, “We’re sorry, but…” Just go ahead and say, “We wish that we could have included more of our friends.” That will raise the question as to why they didn’t make the cut. But it’s what you had to do. So, go ahead and say it. For the fortunate friends who ask to bring a friend along, no is the simple, right answer. The number of chairs in the room will work there, too, but you don’t need to explain, just as they didn’t need to ask. Just hold your heads up, party down and pay the bills.

Poll Taxed I’m retired, but I stay active in politics. In recent years, I’ve worked hard on several successful campaigns, but I’m always surprised that the candidates never seem to recognize me when I see them in public. At a restaurant, for example, they never stop by and say hello. It seems to me that, even if we’re not close friends, the least they could do is acknowledge my presence and give me a chance to introduce them to my own friends. I’m sure they think that I’m lying or just bragging, but I don’t think I am. What should I do? — Anonymous, Oak Hill

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