Jinja: Attractively Lush, Adrenaline Rush

Jinja

ATTRACTIVELY LUSH, ADRENALINE RUSH

PETER HOLTHUSEN

Less than 17 years ago, tourism activity on the Nile north of Jinja was limited to a peaceful and rather obscure picnic site at the Bujagali Falls – a series of impressive rapids about 10km (6 miles) downriver of the source of the Nile – visited by a handful of travellers annually. Today, the eastern bank of the Nile between Jinja and Bujagali has developed into a world-class adventure-tourism centre, serviced by four bustling backpacker facilities, and an upmarket tented camp and hotel. This is because the 50km (31-mile) stretch of the Nile north of Jinja is now a mecca for white water rafting, river surfing, kayaking, bungee jumping, jet boat riding and quad biking.

All the rapids at the Bujagali Falls are named to heighten the anticipation, for instance: Total Gunga, Silverback, Rib Cage and Surf City. Jinja would probably be a fairly nondescript town if it were not for its location. It is at the head of the Napoleon Gulf, on the northern edge of Lake Victoria, and lies on the east bank

of the Victoria Nile. The town is perhaps best known for being the source of the Nile. Even as it leaves the lake, it is a surprisingly large river and it is a bit spooky to think of it wandering north for 4,000 miles until it reaches the Mediterranean Sea.

Jinja lies in south-eastern Uganda, approximately 87km (54 miles) by road, east of Kampala, the capital. An informal European settlement was founded there in 1900, when the rocky waterfall was selected as the most suitable place for the telegraph line to Kampala to cross the Nile. Before 1900, Jinja was a small fishing village that benefited from being located on the long-distance trade routes.

Jinja’s rapid emergence as a pivotal commercial centre and international transport hub was encouraged by the completion of the railway line from Mombasa, 1,400km (900 miles) away, to the Kenyan lake port of Kisumu, and the introduction of a connecting ferry service. Cotton packing, nearby sugar estates, and railway access all enabled Jinja to grow in size.

The Bujagali Falls, which lies downstream of the source of the Nile, is the launching point for a commercial white water rafting route that ranks as one of the most thrilling and safest in the world.

By 1906, a street pattern had been laid out, and Indian traders moved in establishing a small community in 1910. The Indians were Catholic Christians and English-speaking and originated in the former Portuguese colony of Goa on the west coast of India.

The local economy was further boosted by the successful introduction of cotton as a cash crop for export, and by the construction of a railway line north to Namasagali in 1912. Further growth took place in 1928 when BritishAmerican Tobacco Uganda (BATU) established a tobacco processing factory in Jinja.

In 1954, with the opening of the Owen Falls Dam, (later renamed Nalubaale Power Station), the Ripon Falls were submerged. Most of the ‘flat rocks’ that gave the area its name disappeared under the water as well. However, the dam meant that Jinja enjoyed clean, potable water on tap and an unwavering electricity supply throughout the 1960s.

Jinja’s proximity to this reliable source of cheap electricity proved attractive to industry, and several companies, including the Manchester-based Calico Printers’ Association, with the Uganda Development Corporation (UDC), constructed a large textile mill (Nyanza Textile Industries Limited), known locally as ‘Nytil’. By 1973 the company employed about 3,000 people and exclusively used Uganda cotton to spin, weave, and dye or print, to sell via its own retail chain, Lebel, throughout Uganda and Kenya.

As Jinja grew, new roads were constructed, serving the many who lived outside the town. Each morning in the 1960s there would be a line of two-wheel traffic heading for the sokoni (marketplace) with cargoes of bananas or sacks of charcoal. During this period, Jinja, like other towns in Uganda, was subtly segregated. The white population was quite small and tended to live in mixed European/ Asian (East Indian) neighbourhoods separated from African neighbourhoods. The majority of the European/Asian areas were generally by the

lakeside with houses affording large gardens. Although Europeans and Asians lived here in close proximity, the facilities of the nearby Jinja Club – golf, tennis, squash, a swimming pool, the Sailing Club, Nile Rugby Club and Nile Football Club – were mainly enjoyed by Europeans.

Jinja suffered badly during the Amin years and subsequent periods of economic and political turmoil, but a more recent economic upswing has been mirrored by the emergence of the river corridor as a major tourism centre in the region, with the emphasis strongly on adrenalineorientated activities.

The Bujagali Falls, which lies downstream of the source of the Nile, is the launching point for a commercial white water rafting route that ranks as one of the most thrilling and safest in the world, passing through three heart-stopping grade five rapids in one day. There are several companies offering a variety of itineraries without compromise. Foremost among them is Adrift, who enjoy an unparalleled worldwide reputation for safety and excellence. They are Uganda’s premier adventure company offering white water rafting, bungee jumping, jet boating, kayaking and river surfing. With over 28 years of adventure experience, they have enjoyed the custom of Prince William, Mika Häkkinen, Geri Horner, Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman. A typical itinerary would include a transfer from your hotel at Jinja where the mighty Nile begins its journey to the Mediterranean Sea. After a full safety demonstration, you will then enjoy a half-day of white water rafting. With lots of good rapids, including the mighty Itanda (the bad place) and a beautiful river with spectacular flora and fauna, there are some

Jinja has become known as the adventure sports capital of East Africa, for the river here has several grade five rapids including the mighty Itanda (the bad place), which offer exhilarating white water rafting on a par with the worldrenowned Zambezi Gorge below Victoria Falls.

Top: Kayaking and river surfing are just some of the adventure sports that can be experienced on the rapids near Jinja, while playing chicken with riverine rocks.

Left: The actual ‘source of the Nile’ is marked by a popular but uninspiring plaque, all finished in garish yellow thanks to the official sponsorship of Uganda Breweries’ Bell Lager.

very exciting sections with space between to lay back and float along taking in the scenery and enjoying the wildlife, particularly the many species of birds to be found here.

Two kilometres upstream beside the Jinja Nile Resort is the Nile High Camp which has a 44-metre bungee jump. Here, intrepid jumpers leap from a 12-metre cantilevered steel structure on top of a towering cliff above the Nile. If you want an extra adrenaline rush, there is the option of being dipped into the river on a longer bungee. Often performing at this site is the Ugandan Acrobatic, Jeremiah Bazale.

The latest feather in Adrift’s sweaty, adrenalinesoaked cap is Uganda’s first jet boat, Wild Nile Jet, a 12-seater beast powered by a 450-horsepower Chevrolet engine and capable of speeds of over 90kph (60mph). The 30-minute assault on the river won’t reduce your carbon footprint, but it is an amazing white knuckle ride, racing up and down minor rapids, throwing 360° spins and playing chicken with riverine rocks, while kayaking, river surfing and quad biking trips are available for those seeking solitude in a magical setting.

Fishing for Nile perch and tilapia attracts many anglers to the Bujagali Falls. The fast-flowing waters above and below the falls are probably the best places from which to cast off. The king of the freshwater fish is without doubt the massive Nile perch, while the much smaller, rather bony tilapia can be found on the menus of many of Kampala’s

finest restaurants.

The actual ‘source of the Nile’ is marked by a popular but uninspiring plaque, all finished in garish yellow thanks to the official sponsorship of Uganda Breweries’ Bell Lager. But if you are seeking to explore the natural wonders of the area, the nearby Mabira Forest Reserve, which straddles the Kampala-Jinja road about 20km (12 miles) west of Jinja, is one of the largest forest areas in Central Uganda. This popular nature park hosts grasslands, forested valleys and an astonishing variety of bird and monkey species.

Travelling to Jinja by air is easiest through Entebbe International Airport, 40km (24 miles) south of Kampala or through the Kenyan capital Nairobi, which is the main air travel hub of East Africa and offers frequent bus connections to Jinja.

A visit to this enchanting town on the shores of Africa’s largest lake will not disappoint you. It is the human psyche that demands we discover and explore. If you’re seeking an adrenaline rush amidst some of the most spectacular scenery in Uganda, you’ll be well rewarded for charting a course to Jinja.

Fishing for Nile perch and tilapia attracts many anglers to the Bujagali Falls. The fast-flowing waters above and below the falls are probably the best places from which to cast off. The king of the freshwater fish is without doubt the massive Nile perch, while the much smaller, rather bony tilapia can be found on the menus of many of Kampala’s finest restaurants.

Enabling Environments

CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL SCHOOL NURSERY’S APPROACH TO LEARNING

At Christ Church Cathedral School Nursery we believe that it is through play that young children engage and interact with the world around them. Th rough play they discover who they are. Th eir physical development, and cognitive and language skills develop alongside their imagination, concentration, self-confi dence and sociability.

We follow the Montessori philosophy and approach to learning, combined with other more traditional methods of teaching. Th rough her scientifi c, observational approach and deep respect for the potential of each child, the Italian physician and educator Dr Maria Montessori (1870-1952) developed a unique method of education which enhances the child’s natural desire to learn about their environment. She discovered that a well-planned environment ensures a structured route for young children to play and progress robustly through the stepping stones of all areas of learning.

We off er art in many forms: music, yoga, cookery, and play materials that allow the children to express their own creative outlook. Painting pictures, colouring and mark-making - regardless of how accurately the work appears - are invaluable in helping to strengthen the pincer/pencil grip in preparation for writing. Th rough art, children learn to value their own uniqueness and to appreciate the individuality of others. Young children like to experiment and create just for sheer joy. A three- to four-year-old artist may ‘destroy’ what an adult perceives as a ‘lovely’ creation as they try out new ideas. Th at is fi ne! Th e creative process is what matters, not the fi nished product. We must not interfere with a child’s masterpiece; rather, we must celebrate their delight and eff ort in creating it.

Our extra-curricular programme is forever changing in response to the pupils’ individual needs and interests, and is not confi ned to the classroom. At our Woodland School, in Christ Church Meadow, the children have a hands-on sensory learning experience in a natural environment. We also take advantage of our location in the centre of Oxford, visiting the many museums, libraries, the Castle, and cafes, as well as enjoying brass rubbing in the Cathedral and, recently, a dress rehearsal for an orchestral concert.

At Christ Church Cathedral School Nursery we foster and encourage the children to be independent, to love learning, and to understand their meaningful place in the happy community that is Christ Church Cathedral School.

Nicky English Head of Nursery Christ Church Cathedral School