A butterless bakery

Page 23 | The Scene

A butterless bakery

Lounge at L’Artisane Bakery and Bistro, a morally sound French bakery just a block away from Miracle Mile

BY HAZEL GROSELL, STAFF WRITER

FRENCH CUISINE IS renowned for its buttery textures, cream-stuffed pastries and rich flavors. Chef Carolina Molea, owner and founder of the L’Artisane Bakery & Bistro, creates French dishes and desserts that are almost exact clones of those in France. The difference? Molea’s baking is completely vegan.

It began as an idea in Molea’s grandmother’s kitchen. In a home where food was the center of every celebration, her grandmother taught her how to use herbs and spices to create mouthwatering dishes. She ingrained in Molea the great responsibility to nourish the bodies and souls of those she cooks for.

That nourishment and attention to detail carries into the bakery itself. Pastel pillows rest on leather sofas, golden pendants cast light on the graphics hanging on the wall and a parade of pastries sit on display near the entrance of the bakery. Their sugary scent hovers in the air and lingers onto customers when they leave.

“I love the ambiance, the tranquility, the elegance and the attention to detail. It’s just so cozy,” customer Christina Nosti said.

From 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. many curious nonvegans are beckoned into the store by the pink sign glowing over 2526 Ponce de Leon Blvd. Some are turned away by the fear of uncertainty of veganism. In fact, many people still view vegan food as inedible. For the business, this misconception is still a difficult thing to overcome.

“A lot of people think that vegan food isn’t as good but really it’s just regular food without animal products. It’s still delicious,” general manager Camila Sosa said.

Because of veganism’s defamation, outreach is very important for L’Artisane. Molea and Sosa discuss ways to help the bakery flourish. They have worked with one another for three years and in that period alone, they have begun shipping their delicacies across the U.S. and their croissants attract nationwide attention. Online customers will even travel to Miami to visit the L’Artisane Bakery and Bistro.

“My favorite thing forever is the wild mushroom croissant. It has a truffle sauce on it and I have a lot of people that I recommend it to who aren’t vegan and they’re ‘like this is the best thing I’ve ever had,’” Sosa said.

Crowd favorites include the “Miss Dior”, the Pain au Chocolat, the L’Artisane Brownie”and, if someone’s palate is a little pickier than most, the plain croissant is an excellent option. In 2019, it was ranked the “Best Croissant in Miami” by a community vote in the Miami New Times.

“The L’Artisane Brownie with chocolate brownie, hazelnut crunchy, vanilla pears and hazelnut chantilly is delicious, so delicious,” Nosti said.

Unsurprisingly, the in-person experience at this bakery is worth dropping in on. Mellow French music plays as singles, couples and families alike enjoy their food. In fact, many of L’Artisane’s clientele and staff are not vegan.

“At first I thought I wouldn’t like it because I wasn’t really into vegan food… but after working here I’ve been to multiple vegan places,” employee Jose* said.

Through dedication to detail and perfectionism, the L’Artisane Bakery and Bistro has nurtured a welcoming environment. Their moderately priced $5 to $20 dishes and desserts encourage non-vegans to dip their toes in the ever-growing industry.

As the first vegan French bakery in the U.S., L’Artisane has brought new meaning to French cuisine.

“[L’Artisane] food means butter and cream and richness,” Nosti said. “Except without the butter and cream.” h

THE CRUFFIN: Croissant? Muffin? More like cruffin. With a vegan creamy center, the sweet and scrumptous cruffin offers the palate a bit of both airy and dense worlds in one bite.

THE MORAL MACARONS: The airy bite of the most well known French delicacy, macarons, has been turned lighter with the calm consciousness of vegan.

PAIN AU CHOCOLAT: A tastful decorated delight and modern take on its chocolate Frenchy forebearer for breakfast or brunch treat on any day.