COUNTRY SPORT JANUARY 2016
GUNDOGS WHICH BREED IS BEST FOR YOU?
SHOOTING • DOGS • ART • CLOTHING • FOOD • CARS SPOTTING SCOPES
PREMIUM OPTICS FOR THE DISCERNING COUNTRYMAN
HOW TO GET INTO SHOOTING HARISSA ROASTED PARTRIDGE
Never cooked game? Try this delicious recipe
KEITH SYKES
An interview with the sporting artist
WINTER
WONDERLAND A celebration of the season’s rich bounty THE NEW DISCOVERY SPORT
WE DRIVE LAND ROVER’S LATEST SUV
COUNTRY SPORT
JANUARY 2016
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Contents
4
A WINTER WONDERLAND
20
8
HOW TO GET INTO SHOOTING
TO LOOK 23 WHAT FOR IN A KNIFE
Howard Matthews celebrates the joy of a frosty morning in the field
Seth Brown offers advice for the aspiring gun, including tuition, safety, and applying for a licence
13
BEST OF BOTH WORLDS?
14
WHICH BREED?
18
18
The Land Rover Discovery Sport combines everyday performance with off-road ability
Why the modern spotting scope is a vital piece of kit for stalking
An essential tool for gutting and skinning your quarry
24
FROM FIELD TO FLY Shooting not only provides food for the table, but also materials for flies
UNDER A 28 ART MICROSCOPE
31
Rob Hardy offers advice to those planning to train a dog for the field
WINTER CLOTHING
Beat the wind and rain with this fine selection of men’s and women’s outerwear
IN CLEAR SIGHT
24
Meet Keith Sykes, whose wildlife portraits reveal extraordinary detail
RECIPE
Mike Robinson cooks delicious harissa roasted partridge
14
A winter wonderland Howard Matthews celebrates the joy of a frosty morning in the ďŹ eld, the lingering smell of a spent cartridge and the bounty of seasonal fayre 4 January 2016 Country Sport
A pheasant takes flight on a frosty winter morning.
PHOTOGRAPHS: JO RABINEAU
A
FTER 27 YEARS of being involved in game-shooting the anticipation I feel prior to a day in the field is difficult to define, but I can still remember my first experience accompanying my father beating as a fresh-faced ten-year-old. It was a crisp, frost-laden November morning with the air so cold that it took your breath away. Gloves, hat and thermals were essential, although the additional woollen socks were no respite from the bitter cold seeping through my wellingtons. Boarding a tractor and trailer, an experience in itself for someone so young, the camaraderie and welcoming faces within the darkened trailer were a pleasant surprise. During our short tractor journey, the tweed-clad and authoritative figure of Mr Stayton briefed his team of beaters for the first drive. The simple instruction was to “keep in line”. Leaving the trailer and walking towards a large woodland, the frost-covered leaves sounded like breaking glass underfoot with puddles of frozen water appearing like mirrors. Each beater was positioned an equal distance apart and adjacent to the wood. A loud horn signalled the start. Picking my way through the woodland and battling through headhigh undergrowth, the distant sound of gunfire initially startled me. The rhythmic tapping of the beaters’ sticks and chaotic behaviour of cocker spaniels were occasionally interrupted by a whorl of wing beats from a flushed pheasant. There were flashes of russet-red as a startled roe deer was seen running behind the line and buzzards mewed overhead. After what felt like a never-ending struggle against the all-consuming bramble, a second horn signalled the end of the drive. I remember finding a freshly spent cartridge in the frosty grass and smelling the lingering burnt powder within, then admiring the iridescent hues of a cock pheasant being hung on the game cart and glistening in the winter sun. The day involved several tractor rides to different parts of the estate. Beating through woodland was followed by cover crops consisting of six-foot-high maize that engulfed me, with moments of blind panic that I would never find my way out. Back at the farm, the long and eventful day came to a close when the shovel-like hand of Mr Stayton presented me with a small envelope containing a crisp £10, with the day’s experience becoming a long-lasting memory etched in my mind. The subsequent years were spent beating on several estates and learning about how a day is organised, what “stops”, “flankers”, “picker-ups” and “pegs” are and the difference between “driven” and “walked-up/rough shooting”. Also, that shooting was not just about pulling a trigger, but a whole lot more. The unseen habitat and wildlife management, spring feeding as well as supplementary food for passerines, strategically placed wild bird cover, beetle banks and conservation headlands for example. Now all these years later, game-shooting has become more popular than ever. There are a plethora of sporting agents ready to assist while the internet has opened up countless avenues of “how to” and “where to” articles. Books such as Birds, Boots and Barrels and How to be Asked Again are also invaluable for those not able to undertake an apprenticeship in the beating line. Today my interest in game-shooting is somewhat different. Although I Spent cartridges evoke memories of more than just the shooting.
Country Sport
January 2016 5
Three birds for the pot to be shared among the guns.
A chance to rest and revisit the opportunities of the day so far.
still enjoy the odd driven day, I now prefer the purest form of rough shooting, which demands an element of fieldcraft, stealth and patience. However, obtaining land to shoot over has become more difficult, especially in my adopted home of Devon. Three years ago I was fortunate to be invited to join a small walked-up syndicate. Although a very modest number of pheasants are released, we simply rely on our hard work during the close season to put something on the table. We organise work parties throughout the spring and summer for coppicing, hedgelaying and ride clearance as well as tree planting and pond creation. Come our first day in November, and every evening prior to a day in the field, I watch the weather forecast in anticipation of that memory-inducing frosty morning. My shooting essentials are organised that same evening, too, along with a hip flask of homemade sloe gin. The morning of a shoot, like a boy at Christmas, I normally wake early with my first thought to look outside. Has Jack Frost visited? Unfortunately, in the last few years, overcast, wet and mild conditions have prevailed. Our rough-shooting days are informal occasions comprising a handful of like-minded individuals intent on enjoying each other’s company, as well as hopefully taking a bird home for supper. An eclectic mix of gundogs are brought along for scenting, flushing and retrieving game, and they often seem even more enthusiastic than the guns. Congregating at one of the two farms we shoot over, we aim to cover the first one in the morning and then stop for a field lunch or hearty game stew that one of us has provided. Our second farm is a mixture of thick hedgerows, bog, woodland and set-aside. Here the species list can normally be bolstered as the bog provides an ideal habitat for snipe and woodcock. Woodcock are my favourite gamebird and I have refrained from shooting them for many years. Their fascinating behaviour, arduous winter migration and beautiful cryptic coloration raises a smile every time I see
one. Our resident population has suffered continued decline in recent years, too, so I feel my abstention may be going some way to help. Hunting the hedgerows, it is important to assess which way the wind is blowing for my Hungarian vizsla to work effectively. We aim to cover all escape routes, but that wily old cock pheasant has a habit of escaping via the back door. In the afternoon we aim to cover a large proportion of the farm, but just as importantly stop and admire the colours of the changing season, perhaps with a sip of sloe gin. Discussions often turn to supper and the variety of ways to cook our quarry. We make a point of finishing our amble some time before sunset, which is necessary in allowing birds to roost. A good day may comprise a handful of pheasant, perhaps woodcock and snipe but most certainly woodpigeon. We would have inevitably seen deer, which in our part of the country would include red and roe in abundance. Hare are also an increasing sight on the farms, partly the result of a no ground game policy but primarily due to the conservation efforts of the syndicate. Back at the farmhouse with the air temperature dropping, we respectfully hang any game to cool in the larder. Tea, cake or crumpets are consumed with hands and bones warmed by the open fire. Successful opportunities and tales of missed chances are evaluated, accompanied by excuses and laughter from all concerned. Our shot game is evenly distributed to those present, a key part of our day’s activities. Having two avid fly-tyers within the syndicate, we share any mallard and melanistic pheasant tail feathers. For some reason I am particularly popular with my fishing and fly-tying friends from November to January! Finally, back home, the dog is fed and watered, the gun cleaned and stored, and a whisky is poured to be drunk by the fire as the day is recollected. Sometimes a spent cartridge is found lurking in my pocket, with a smell that rekindles memories of that first day beating. CS
“That wily old cock pheasant has a habit of escaping via the back door”
6 January 2016 Country Sport
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Shooting
HOW TO GET INTO SHOOTING Seth Brown offers advice for the aspiring gun, including tuition, safety, getting to know the right people and applying for a licence
H
AVE YOU ever watched woodpigeons landing on a winter field and thought what great sport you could have with a gun? Does the prospect of walking along a hedgerow, the frost crunching underfoot, while hunting a rabbit or a pheasant for the pot appeal to your hunting instinct? If you’ve never had the opportunity to shoot before then it can seem an impenetrable world, one defended by tweed-clad gamekeepers and a vast legal minefield. Yet shooting can be a very simple and accessible sport. Yes, to become competent enough to shoot live game or buy a shotgun and ammunition, you must take certain steps, but it’s not a closed shop and nor are you required to track your lineage back to 1066.
8 January 2016 Country Sport
If you haven’t shot before and would like to have a go, then it’s as simple as typing “shooting grounds” into a search engine and seeing what’s in your area. There’s a good chance of one being within 30 minutes’ drive of your home. If you give them a call and explain you are a newcomer to shooting and would like to have a go they will book you in with one of their experienced coaches for an hour or so. The coach will show you how to handle a shotgun safely, before giving you the chance to shoot at a few clay pigeons. It’s great fun, and very addictive. You don’t need any special clothing, just something comfortable that you can move freely in, practical footwear and a cap of some kind. There is no need to own a gun as the shooting ground will supply one and any safety equipment, such as glasses and hearing protection, and the cartridges. You don’t need a licence at this stage as you are covered under the shooting ground’s
licence while on their premises. The whole experience should cost you around £80, with many shooting grounds offering deals for more than one person per instructor, or for booking a series of lessons. The British Association of Shooting and Conservation (BASC) and the Clay Pigeon Shooting Association (CPSA) also have an annual schedule of Starter, Have a Go, Shotgun Skills and Young Shots days at various shooting grounds and game fairs around the country so there’s no excuse, whatever your age. Details can be found on their websites given at the end of this article. It’s the perfect way to experience the sport for the first time in a safe and controlled environment, and to start to learn how to properly handle a gun and shoot under the expert eye of a trained coach. Breaking a few clays is a great way to spend a Saturday or Sunday morning and you will soon get to know the regular club members at your local ground. Most clubs have a friendly atmosphere where members like to see “new blood” taking up their sport and are happy to give advice – sometimes whether you want it or not! Soon the world of shooting starts to open up with discussions about the best guns and cartridges. You may find yourself wanting to buy a gun and cartridges of your own – this is the point to think about applying to your area’s police firearms licencing unit for a shotgun certificate. The “201” application form can be picked up at larger post offices, from your local police station or downloaded from your local forces website. It consists of a number of questions about your health history (Part B) and any previous offences (Part C). This is so the police can determine one of the key points to granting the licence – that you can possess a shotgun without
Clay-pigeon shooting is a popular sport and the best way for a novice to hone his or her skills.
danger to the public safety or the peace. You will need to get two people that are not relatives and have known you for at least two years who are prepared to act as counter signatories. The process used to require professionals such as doctors or lawyers to sign the application, but this is no longer the case, which has made the process more straightforward. The second key point the police will need to establish is that your shotgun will be stored in a safe place. The preference is to get an approved gun cabinet in which the gun must be stored at all times when not in use. This needs to be securely fixed to a solid wall in your home, out of view of the general public. The keys to the cabinet must be kept in a separate location known only by yourself, to avoid any non-licenced individuals gaining access to them and the guns within the cabinet. It sounds more complicated than it really is.
Before you join a shoot you should seek tuition at a registered shooting school. Country Sport
January 2016 9
Shooting Cabinets approved to BS7558 are available for as little as £60 to £80 for one that will take up to three guns. Then all you need is a drill and some solid fixings like coach screws or expanding bolts. I find that an internal cupboard or wardrobe is a good place as it fits neatly in a corner, takes up very little space and is out of view of anyone coming into the house. I recommend separating the two keys so that should you ever suffer a break-in they would have to find both keys before having access to your cabinet. All this can seem an annoyance but is as much for our own safety as for others. Once you have fitted your cabinet and sent off your application with four passportsized photographs and the initial charge of £79.50, your local firearms licencing officer will contact you and arrange to visit your home to check your cabinet’s security. All being well your shotgun certificate will be with you a few weeks later, and you will not have to worry again for five years until it needs renewing. Now the fun of choosing your first shotgun can begin. Being part of a club will help, as many good shooting grounds sell new and used shotguns and other equipment. They can give you expert advice, let you try the gun, or one like it, before you buy and will help you to get the gun “fitted” to make sure it will shoot where you are looking. Many shooters choose to only ever shoot clay pigeons, travelling around the country to shoot at different shooting grounds and in organised
competitions. But once you are able to use a shotgun safely and accurately, you may want to broaden your horizons and exercise that hunting instinct by pursuing live quarry. Gaining access to shooting may seem a total mystery to the newcomer but if you are prepared to put in a bit of time and effort it’s all perfectly possible. There is every chance that one or more of the members you already know at the shooting ground will be involved in a game shoot. They may be a member of a syndicate where friends have got together to form a shoot, or they may be part of the beating team on a local estate or commercial shoot; they may even be a gamekeeper, as many gamekeepers are also keen clay shots. A great way in is to ask if they need any new beaters. Most game shoots are always looking for good, reliable people to help out on shoot days and if you are willing to turn out early on cold winter mornings then you could become part of the team. It’s hard work, but excellent exercise and you get to see a game shoot from the inside while making valuable contacts. Many shoots will have a “beaters’ day” at the end of the season where you will get the opportunity to shoot. Once you have proved your value as a safe and trusted member of the team, other opportunities will open up. Keepers often call on members of their beating team to help in pest control tasks, such as organised pigeon shoots or vermin shoots to control magpies or crows at the end of the shooting season or in early
“Most shoots are always looking for good, reliable people”
Pigeons are shot from a hide.
10 January 2016 Country Sport
spring. You could find yourself invited to join a syndicate or a rough shoot on a local farm, with a chance to shoot pigeons, rabbits and other pests as part of crop protection. As your knowledge grows you may want to try your hand at shooting driven game. Days on commercial shoots are readily available, and are advertised in the shooting press or on specialist shooting websites such as Guns on Pegs. Days usually range from 150 birds upwards and current prices average around £30-£35 per bird. You will need some form of insurance to cover you in case of accident. All shooters should have this, as a matter of course; cover is available from the BASC, CPSA and other shooting organisations. If the wilder, more solitary sport of wildfowling is more your thing, then a quick search on the web or the BASC website for your local Wildfowlers’ Club should give you the club’s details and a contact for the secretary. He will tell you if there is a waiting list, the joining fees – which often include BASC membership and insurance cover – and the area the club shoots over. You will need to know your wildfowl species, and recognise them in low light conditions. So do your homework before going out or you could find yourself in serious trouble for shooting a protected species, which in turn reflects badly on the whole sport. I hope this has dispelled a few of the myths surrounding shooting and given you enough information to seriously consider trying it as a sport. If you love the countryside and want to be out there enjoying all it has to offer during the winter months, then finding a type of shooting that suits you is a perfect way to do it. CS
Joining a beating party is a good way to make valuable contacts and it is good exercise, too.
A driven shoot, where guns stand at pegs.
The differenT TYPeS Of ShOOTinG In sImPle terms, there is shooting game and wildfowl, and shooting that involves crop protection or vermin control. Game shooting involves mainly pheasant and partridge, which can be either walked-up or driven. Walkedup or rough shooting is where the “guns” walk through woodland, crops or along hedgerows, shooting the game as it is flushed. This style of shooting is usually employed on smaller shoots, and the bag can consist of game birds, and a variety of other quarry species. Driven shooting was developed around the turn of the century, when it became a major sport in the social calendar. Driven shooting involves teams of beaters, people with sticks and dogs, used to flush game towards the waiting guns, who are stood on shooting stands, or pegs, and shoot the birds as they are “driven” overhead. Done correctly the birds should be at their maximum speed and height as they reach the guns and so it is considered a more difficult or “sporting” way of shooting game. Wildfowling, where ducks and geese are shot as they fly into or out of their feeding grounds can be done either inland or on tidal estuaries and coastal marshes. Other forms of shooting are either for crop protection, such as pigeon shooting, or vermin control where highpowered rifles are used to control fox and rabbit numbers for the general health of these and other wildlife. This is also the case with deer stalking, where numbers are controlled to prevent disease and damage to forestry. Owning one of these rifles requires a Part One Firearms licence, which needs to be applied for separately via your local police Firearms licensing Department. • For more information on this and other points raised in this article go to: www.basc.org.uk or www.cpsa.co.uk Country Sport
January 2016 11
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HOUGH LAND ROVER doesn’t care to admit it, the Land Rover Discovery Sport is a replacement for the Freelander. It’s about the same size as the Freelander 2 and it’s aimed at the same aspirational younger buyer. While it does not have the same low-range gearbox and low-speed off-road ability as the bigger Discovery, it is more than capable on difficult terrain, as befits any vehicle with the Land Rover name. Which makes it a good option for families that enjoy weekends and holidays in the field or by the river. The Discovery Sport’s new 2.0-litre Ingenium engine is built at Land Rover’s £500m UK Engine Manufacturing Centre and is designed to meet the new Euro 6 emissions regulations. The Ingenium engine is cleaner, quieter, torquier and more efficient than its previous, the SD4. Not only that, but a taxbusting 150PS (148bhp) version is available, dropping the Sport into the £0 VED band. What’s it like to drive? The engine is very quiet – not noticeable at all when cruising at a
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steady speed, but audible when accelerating. The nine-speed automatic gearbox has “learning” electronics that adapt to your driving style. In “Drive” mode, downshifting can be slow and it takes a while to decide which gear to select when overtaking. The solution is to engage “Sport” mode or use the steering paddles. Sport mode keeps you in a lower gear so the power kicks in quicker, at the expense of some fuel economy. And when you look at the technology employed to improve economy, which is up from 44.8mpg to 53.3mpg [manufacturer’s figures] in the automatic version, with reduced emissions, you’d not want to waste it. There’s a slight increase in torque over the SD4 and while the engine doesn’t push you hard into the back of your seat, you feel you’re being accelerated at a reasonable rate. Carrying space is important. The Sport is a fairly standard “compact SUV” so it’s not cavernous, and is available with or without a third row of seats (5+2). With seats upright, there’s little boot space, but when flattened to the floor, you may get a dog cage on board (some owners have found a way and we’ve found bespoke cages advertised online). CS
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January 2016 13
Dogs The labrador is the most popular breed of gundog.
WHICH BREED? Rob Hardy offers advice to those planning to train a dog for the field
14 January 2016 Country Sport
”
W
HAT’S the best shooting dog?” It’s a question I get asked at game fairs, on shoots or in the pub by people who are considering getting their first gundog. Of course there is no “best” dog for shooting as each has been bred to fulfil particular roles. So, rather than name a breed as they are expecting, my answer is rather different, “The best shooting dog is the one that suits you.” This is not me avoiding the question or trying to be clever – it really is the best starting point. By all means read up about different breeds or talk to owners of gundogs you admire but keep an open mind, as what suits them may not suit you. So what should you consider when starting to make this all-important decision? First and foremost, ask yourself: What type of shooting do I want to do? The crucial bit here is “do I want to do” not just “what am I doing now”. Once trained a healthy gundog will hopefully give you ten or more years’ service. If you make your choice based solely on your current shooting, you could find that this is not the ideal choice for the future. If your shooting consists of walking hedgerows for a pheasant or two, your first choice might be a spaniel. But if your intention is to join a syndicate, where the majority of shooting will be at a peg, by the time your puppy is trained and ready for the field it is no longer the ideal fit for your shooting. So try to choose a dog that will not just cover your shooting now but what you aspire to do in the future. Unless you are lucky enough to have access to large acres of moor to walk up, where you could legitimately consider a pointer, setter or a hunt, point and retrieve (HPR) breed, such as a vizslas or weimeraners, then most people’s choice will be one of the spaniel or retriever breeds. While the HPR seems the perfect answer to most shooting situations – a Jack-of-alltrades – I have seldom found it to be the case. And while I know I will run the wrath of devotees of such breeds, who no doubt have some very capable dogs, there is a reason why our most popular gundog breeds have stood the test of time and proved themselves the most suitable dogs for shooting throughout the British Isles. A final point to consider with all minor gundog breeds as well as trendy “designer mixes”, such as labradoodles and spanadors, is the size of the gene pool available to breeders and the ability to ensure true working bloodlines. So should your choice be an English springer or cocker spaniel? Or the labrador, golden or flat-coated retriever? Well let us consider first point Momentour of truth: you’veagain. The type of shooting with the dog. If you intend bought you yourwill first be gundoing and now you arearound about topigeon shoot itshooting, in to major wildfowling and the field for the fimaybe rst time. driven shooting, with the odd days picking up or even beating on larger estates, then I would
strongly lean towards a retriever. Their ability to “switch off” and remain patient makes them ideal for the periods of inactivity waiting in a hide or at a peg. They can also be handled out to retrieves at greater distance than the average spaniel and deal better with repeated wet and cold conditions, due to their larger size and insulated coats. These traits also make them perfect fishing companions. From the retriever breeds the labrador is by far the most popular. It matures much earlier than the others, which means it can be trained at an earlier age, adding to its working life. There are excellent working strains readily available, selectively bred for generations by reputable gundog breeders for their working abilities, temperament, trainability and lack of generic defects. Where the well-bred labrador can be trained and ready for a shoot at around 18 months, golden and flat-coated retrievers will be closer to two-and-half years old before they are at the same point in their development. Personally, I have never seen this as a real negative. More of a concern is the shrinking number of working lines that has resulted from them being “out of fashion”. Thankfully there are still good breeders out there – find the right ones and you have the makings of an excellent gundog. The golden retriever, in particular, makes a good working family pet, with a lovely temperament. Traditional working goldies have the benefit of being smaller and lighter than the larger show lines, making them more home and car friendly. While a spaniel can perform the retriever roles, it will require more training to fight against its natural urge to hunt and flush game – forcing a square peg into a round hole if you like. On the other hand if your chosen sport is rough shooting, where you have to dig your game out of heavy cover, then like James Bond, nobody does it better! A spaniel is also an excellent choice for a walk-and-stand farm shoot. With a
“The best shooting dog is the one that suits you”
A pointer needs lots of exercise and is suited to shoots on moorland.
Country Sport
January 2016 15
An English springer: easy to train and good in thick cover.
small number of guns trying to find every available bird, sport can be light without a few spaniels to get stuck into cover. The well-trained spaniel will deal with you having the odd stand; in fact it gives them a chance to “wind down” both mentally and physically. So how do you choose between the cocker and the English springer spaniels? The cocker spaniel tends to hunt a little tighter to the handler, poking around for the scent of game, only driving into cover when there’s a chance of finding something. Its compact hunting style, diminutive size and will to please has seen a great resurgence in the breed over the last 15 years, making puppies much more available than they once where. Unfortunately this doesn’t guarantee quality and you should do your research to find reputable breeders and proven bloodlines. The traditional starting point for all working breeds is the classified ads in the sporting press, although with the internet at our fingertips this process has been made much easier. Cockers are great little characters but will require patience and an adaptable approach to training. The result is an affectionate, loveable rogue that will give you 100 per cent in every situation. Remember you are looking for a working cocker; avoid any show or American
How, where and when?
Now is the perfect time to start to think about the type of dog that is going to suit you and your shooting. Through the shooting season you will have the opportunity to see retrievers and spaniels working, and start to develop a feel for what’s your type of dog, but now is not the time to buy! Having the distraction of a new puppy in the house right in the middle of the shooting season is not ideal, neither is the weather conducive to you spending time outside together. Spring and early summer not only brings better weather but it is also when most gundog breeders will have litters of pups and so the largest choice will be available to you. That’s why in the May issue of CountrySport we will tell you what to look for in a pedigree and what to look out for when faced with choosing a pup. 16 January 2016 Country Sport
cockers. These are squarer looking with long dropletshaped ears and a more domed head. The English springer spaniel is leggier, and can range in size from small, lightweight racers, to big powerful bruisers. They are a little more predictable in nature, and more consistent to train. Their hunting style is more fluid, with a wider sweeping pattern. A good springer is fearless in thick cover, and treats wicked bramble like a feather bed. Their pace and drive demands concentration to keep them working within range, but get things right and there is no finer sight in shooting than a welltrained springer hunting, in a joyous whirlwind of ears and tail action. Matching the breed to your shooting is just one consideration; you also need to take into account your circumstances. If you live in a small cottage where space is tight, then remember, that cute little flat-coat puppy will end up a large, lively 60 lb retriever in 18 months’ time and may not be a realistic choice unless you have the space to kennel the dog outside. So ask yourself: will the dog suit my lifestyle and me? This is a very important point, not only regarding size but also temperament. If you are a person with a soft, laidback nature, then choosing a big lively breed is asking for trouble. Such a dog would need firm, consistent handling, and would not have a character you would find easy to work with. This inability to bond with the dog leads to frustration for both parties; training fails and the dog gets left at home on shoot days. A waste of your time and of a potentially good dog. The saying goes: there are no bad dogs, just bad handlers. I prefer to think that they are just poorly matched, and that both could fulfil their full potential with the right partner. So let’s re-cap. Find a breed that suits the type of shooting you will be doing. One that’s size and characteristics suits your lifestyle and your temperament. But most importantly, choose one you like! Because only then will you be prepared to put in the commitment to look after and train a gundog to a good standard. This extra effort will make up for a less-than-perfect match in the other areas, the most perfect gundog on paper will not get you out of bed on a dark winter’s morning if your heart’s not in it. The answer’s the same, “The best shooting dog is the one that suits YOU.” CS A cocker pup: late spring and summer are the best times to train a dog.
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SZ0629 48 32in
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52 36in .99 SZ0631 SZ0632 54 38in
SZ1914 154 38in L
SZ0633 56 40in
SZ1916 158 42in L
£249
SIZE
CODE
SIZE
ONLY
£139
.99
SIZE
ONLY
£89.99 Practical features and CODE technical materials LL0026 make the Vierzonord the number one choice LL0008 for British winters. LL0009
CODE
SIZE
SZ1594 SZ1596 SZ1597 SZ1598 SZ1599
50 54 56 58 60
£170.00
SIZE
48 50 52 54 56 58
100% waterproof and vulcanised natural rubber hardwearing nylon lining with 4mm of insulating neoprene.
SZ
7/41 8/42
ONLY
LL0011 10/44
£62.99
LL0012 10.5/45 LL0013 11/46
7
BI0018
8
Woodcock Jacket
£79
Eton on Cap CODE
M L XL XXL
ONLY
£249
.99
ONLY
£22
.49
Eton Gloves CODE
ONLY
SZ3179 SZ3180 SZ3181 SZ3182
£26.99
CODE
SZ
CODE
HD1331 6
HD1335 10
HD1332 7
HD1336 11
BI0021
11
HD1333 8
HD1337 12
BI0022
12
HD1334 9
HD1338 13
SLC 42 Binoculars
5XL
SZ5493 SZ5491
£59.99
SZ1601
M
SZ1602
L
SZ1603
XL
▼ £134.99
S/M
SZ1615
M
SZ1616
L
SZ1617
XL
SIZE
M L XL XXL
SZ1622 58
SZ1618 XL/XXL
SZ1605
SZ1619
XXL
SZ1621 57
▼ £71.99
SZ1604 XL/XXL
SZ1625 61
Breeks
48
SZ1607
48
SZ2492
50
SZ1608
50
SZ2493
52
SZ1609
52
SZ2494
54
SZ1610
54
▼ £89.99
SZ2495
56
SZ1611
56
SZ2496
58
SZ1612
58
▼ £67.99
BEST Forester WellingtonsSELLER Harkila Forester 17” 3mm H-vent Dark Olive Wellington is an advanced natural rubber, neoprene lined, wellington boot with great comfort and fit. CODE SZ
SZ3494
7
SZ3629
8
SZ3495
8
SZ3630
9
SZ3496
9
SZ3631
10
SZ3497
10
SZ3632
11
SZ3498
11
SZ3633
12
SZ3499
12
£62.99
SZ1385 10.5/45 SZ1386 11/46
5 6 7
Boot/Wellington Socks
ONLY
£159.99
Percussion Gloves
Wearing the correct socks outdoors is extremely important. Cold, wet feet can spoil an otherwise perfect day.
CODE
CODE
PRODUCT
PRICE
SZ0060
HARKILA Large Expedition Socks Grey
£22.99
SZ0061
HARKILA XL Expedition Socks Grey
£22.99
SZ6060 SEELAND Field 2-Pack Sock Dark Green M £18.99 SZ6061 SEELAND Field 2-Pack Sock Dark Green L £18.99
EL Range Binoculars
▼ £26.99
SZ1624 60
SZ1620 XXXL
SZ2491
ONLY
SZ1623 59
XXL
SZ1383 9/43 SZ1384 10/44
BEST SELLER
Flat Cap
Waistcoat
SZ
9
SZ1735 SZ5489 SZ5492 SZ5490
SZ1382 8/42
SZ1381 7/41
£129
10
ONLY
SZ1734 SZ5488
3XL 4XL
SZ
.99
BI0020
SZ1733 SZ5487
CODE Very strong and functional boots which will maintain SZ3626 the natural rubbers abilities SZ3627 even under extreme low temperatures. SZ3628
SZ
SZ1816 6/39
ONLY
BI0019
XL
Field 17in 4mm Olive
Warrior EXP Hunting Boot The new Ridgeline Warrior Boots is the next step in Extreme Wet Weather protection.
SZ1732 SZ5486
SZ1614
Trousers
SIZE
SZ3133 SZ3134 SZ3135 SZ3136
S/M
SZ1606 XXXL
Pine Green
CODE
MUSTARD
SZ1731 SZ5485
L XXL
SZ1600
SZ1817 12/47
Dovre Extreme
STONE
M
The Seeland Woodcock Jacket and Breeks are designed on a classic country style with authentic attitude. Whether you are shooting from a peg on the smartest game estate or stalking on a remote moor, the Woodcock series from Seeland is smart and functional and designed to keep you warm and dry in the very worst weather.
Allround Neo
6/39
Wide fitting last. Waxed Nubuck leather uppers with waterproof and breathable Gore-Tex® lining. SZ
£85.49
.99
£62.99
LL0028 12/47
CODE
SIZE
ONLY
ONLY
ONLY
LL0010 9/43
ONLY
CODE
SZ8888 SZ8889 SZ8890 SZ8891 SZ8892 SZ8893
Eton Trouser
Vierzonord Boots
BI0017
S M L XL XXL XXXL 4XL 5XL
Woodcock Series Shaded Olive
As robust a pair of shooting trousers as one could find. These have been specifically designed for the shooting man who wants protection against the undergrowth and rough terrain.
Seetex 5000/5000 waterproof membrane 2 layer shell. Front pockets. Radio pocket. Sleeve pocket with fluorescent band. Waterproof zips. Drawstring in bottom hem and hood. Detachable hood with zip. SZ1586 S/M SZ1587 Med SZ1588 Large SZ1589 XL SZ1590 XL/XXL SZ1591 XXL SZ1592 XXXL
SIZE
The hardwearing Tarnock Trousers from Seeland are built to handle the hardiest of shooters and the toughest terrain. The waterproof and windproof SEETEX® membrane keeps you dry, inside and out.
Eton Jacket Pine Green
CODE
SZ1915 156 40in L
CODE
SZ3020 SZ3021 SZ3022 SZ3023 SZ3024 SZ3025 SZ3026 SZ3027
Tarnock Trousers
The hardwearing Tarnock jacket from Seeland is built to handle the hardiest of shooters and the toughest terrain. The waterproof and windproof SEETEX® membrane keeps you dry, inside and out.
Lancaster Check Shirt Elegant checked shirt made in 100% easy care cotton
Plain and classic jersey with windproof and breathable lining. Seeland’s Odell jersey is soft and warm knitwear in wool combined with polyamide to keep its shape and provide durability. Discreet breast pocket and neck zipper.
SZ0630 50 34in
ONLY
Tarnock Jacket
SZ8793 S/M SZ8794 Med SZ8795 Large SZ8796 XL SZ8797 XL/XXL SZ8798 XXL
Odell Jersey Flint Grey Melange
Gore-Tex® “Performance Shell” is 100% wind and waterproof. Extremely hardwearing. Two leg pockets, one with internal divider, so knives and other objects are fastened securely. Shaped, formed knee for better freedom of movement. Ankle strap for tightening over boots.
PRODUCT
UK Camo DB1338 Gloves Small UK Camo DB1339 Gloves Medium UK Camo DB1340 Gloves Large Camo DB1342 Techwood Glove Small Camo DB1343 Techwood Glove Medium Camo DB1344 Techwood Glove Large Camo DB1345 Techwood Glove XLarge
Photon XT Digital Nightvision Sights
PRICE PRICE
£9.99 £5.00 £9.99 £5.00 £9.99 £5.00 £9.99 £6.00 £9.99 £6.00 £9.99 £6.00 £9.99 £6.00
Ledray F900 Gun Lights
THE BEST SELLER NIGHT VISION RIFLE SCOPE JUST GOT BETTER!!
NEW
Sturdy in any weather, day in day out, and also stand out thanks to their particularly high optical quality
The new EL Range offers the best combination of long-range optics and ergonomic design.
Delivering class leading image resolution and clarity thanks to the new revised 656 x 492 sensor.
Code
Model
RRP
Our Price
Code
Model
Our Price
Code
VS0206 VS0203
8 x 42 10 x 42
£1310 £1380
£1179 £1245
VS0322 VS0323
8 x 42 (2015) 10 x 42 (2015)
£2440 £2520
TJ0448 TJ0449
Model
Our Price
Photon XT 4.6 x 42S £399.99 Photon XT 6.5 x 50S £419.99
Just when we thought it couldn’t be done, The Lighting Experts at Tracer® have gone and done it again. Code
Model
Our Price
DB1999 White LED Lamp Kit £149.99 DB2000 Multi LED Lamp Kit £199.99 DB2001 5W Infrared LED Lamp Kit £169.99
This is just a small selection of what we have available. Contact us on 0141 331 6330 for all your hunting and shooting equipment.
Clothing
Shelter from Beat the wind and rain this winter with this fine
Really Wild Cygnet Jacket With its distinctively flattering cut, this timeless outdoor waterproof coat for ladies is suitable for all country pursuits. £445 www.reallywildclothing.co.uk
Fjällräven Värmland 3-in-1 Jacket
John Field Gale Rain Skirt
A long, windproof and waterproof hunting jacket with a detachable inner jacket that has synthetic padding. Its fixed hood can be stowed away in the collar and there are numerous well-appointed pockets, including an ammunition pocket on the sleeve.
The fashionably flared Gale rain skirt comes in a muted forest-green colour and is light, waterproof, windproof and breathable. Made of recycled polyester TEX³ it is adjustable thanks to two stylish side buckles and elastic in the waist and can be put on in seconds.
£590 www.fjallraven.co.uk
£85 www.johnfield.eu
18 January 2016 Country Sport
the storm ChOiCe Of Men's and wOMen's CLOthinG Swedteam Waterproof Gaiters Made from 100 per cent waterproof polyester, these tough waterproof gaiters are comfortable to wear and offer superb protection from the wet. £39.99 www.teamwildoutfitters.com
John Field Tornado Rain Poncho The forest-green poncho allows the wearer unparalleled movement for shotgun mounting, plus it features a large game pocket, magnetic front pockets for easy cartridge access and fleece-lined chest pockets to keep hands warm and dry. Made from recycled microfibre polyester TEX³ – a soft outer fabric with a green soft net-type lining – the poncho feels good to touch and light to wear. £160 www.johnfield.eu
Swazi Overpants Swazi Wapiti Coat The stylish unisex Wapiti coat is just as at home on the moor as it is watching the footy. It is made in New Zealand from a three-layer AEGIS® fabric, which is soft, light, very quiet and, of course, very waterproof.
These lightweight overpants are designed with hunters in mind and are made from soft, quiet AEGIS® fabric. They are great for the recreational wearer – just as at home when you are stalking elusive prey as when you are tramping to the next hut.
£265 www.swazi.co.nz
£132 www.swazi.co.nz
Country Sport
January 2016 19
Essential kit
In clear sight The modern spotting scope is a vital piece of kit for stalking HILE a pair of binoculars can be used to locate animals, only the extra magnification of a spotting scope can tell you the important details that confirm the presence of a trophy stag. The key to a good spotting scope is the size of its objective lens, how close you can see an object through it and its magnification. The best scopes will often include a choice of interchangeable eyepieces to suit different functions.
W
A good spotting scope is also an invaluable tool when practising and training with rifles, enabling you to spot hits on the target and to judge windage and elevation for the next shot. Buying a scope can be daunting and good advice is to think about what you will use it for: hunting during the middle of the day or in low light at dawn and dusk? When covering long distances every ounce of weight matters and the best scopes are light, portable and robust. CS
Leica APO Televid
Zeiss Victory Diascopes
Lenses: Fluoride* with HDC multi-coating and waterproof and dirtrepellant AquaDura lens coating Eyepieces: Straight or angled Close focusing limit: From 2.9 m Length: From 30 cm Weight: From 1.115 kg Magnification: 25-50 x 65 or 25-50 x 82 Unique feature: For an extra £320, Leica offers an eyepiece accessory which extends magnification to make it the highest magnification spotting scope in the sector – either 45-90 x 65 or 45-90 x 82. RRP: From £2,450 Website: www.leica-sportoptics.co.uk
Lenses: Fluoride* with LotuTec water-repellant coating and Carl Zeiss T multi-layer coating, and Advanced Straylight Reduction System. Eyepieces: Straight or angled Close focusing limit: From 4 m Length: From 30 cm Weight: From 1.1 kg Magnification: 15-45 x 65, 20-60 x 85, 15-56 x 65, 20-75 x 85, 30 x 65 or 40 x 85 Unique feature: Quick and precise focusing with a single operating knob. RRP: From £1,960 Website: www.zeiss.com
Bushnell Elite
Swarovski ATX/STX
Lenses: ED prime fluoride* extra-low dispersion multi-coated glass with RainGuard HD Eyepieces: Straight only Close focusing limit: 4.5 m Length: 43.2 cm Weight: 1.48 kg Magnification: 20-60 x 80 Unique feature: A compact, value-for-money scope with excellent performance. RRP: £1,200 Website: www.edgarbrothers.com
Lenses: Fluoride*-containing HD, Swarodur and Swarotop coatings, and Swarovision Field Flattener Eyepieces: Straight or angled Close focusing limit: From 2.1 m Length: From 33.9 cm Weight: From 1.585 kg Magnification: 25-60 x 65, 25-60 x 85 or 30-70 x 95 Unique feature: Zoom and focusing rings are next to each other allowing one-handed operation. RRP: From £2,340 Website: www.swarovskioptik.com
20 January 2016
Country Sport
* Fluoride lenses improve light transmission and remove nasty colours where they appear around areas of high contrast. They are lighter than standard glass.
Comfort with Style JOIN THE UK’S LARGEST SHOOTING ORGANISATION
for inside and out . . . Image: Nick Ridley
The Mule Company is a family business established in 1982.
As a member you will get: • An insurance package that protects you
• Help with firearms licensing • Training courses and events
JOIN TODAY www.basc.org.uk
08454 680 364 MEMBER
GET
A
Follow us on Facebook and Twitter – click on the links on the BASC website BASC is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority ref 311937 Calls cost 5p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge
Telephone: 01364 652028 orders@themulecompany.co.uk
www.themulecompany.co.uk
We aim to supply you with the perfect fitting shoe which you’ll love to wear.
DOWNLOAD THE
• Advice on where to go shooting
If you are already a member, don't forget to introduce your friends - you could win a brand new Browning shotgun - see Member Get a Member on the website for details
The Mule Company Moorlands, 9 Holne Cross Ashburton, Devon TQ13 7QU
Our mules are of the highest quality, finished to exacting standards in a range of eight colours and are extremely comfortable.
UPDATED APP NOW!
GET IT FREE NOW
F
ISHBRAIN now has a new look and is even easier to use. This simple mobile App gives you detailed statistics on your own fishing. See what’s working and what’s not at venues near you. Thousands of anglers across the UK are already using this new App designed specifically for our sport. The basic version is free and available for Apple and Android smartphone users and is the fastest, easiest way to log your catches. Use it to record your catches including weights of fish, favourite fishing locations, swim depths, best methods, baits and tackle – and show off your catch pictures to other anglers. For just £27.99 you can get a full year’s subscription to the premium version of FishBrain or, alternatively, pay £3.99 a month. This upgraded version analyses your catches to help you improve.
Scottish Stickmakers Of Dunkeld
“Probably the finest wading staff you can buy” (Trout & Salmon Magazine 2012) As well as the finest wading sticks we make some of the finest walking sticks, crooks & cromachs of their kind. Using traditional materials & methods, our hand crafted sticks are made from the finest natural materials including Stag Antler, Buffalo Horn, Ram’s Horn & a variety of Cow Horn, atop Hazel, Oak, Ash, Chestnut & Apple shanks. Adorned with collars of Sterling Silver, Nickel Silver Brass & horn which can be engraved to customers’ requirements. Walking stick prices range from around £55.00 - £220.00
Our range also includes the finest traditionally made Sheffield forged Stainless Steel cutlery with Stag Antler & horn handles including Carving Sets, Steak Knives & Forks, Bread Knives, Butter & Cheese Knives, Cake Slices, letter Openers, Bottle Openers, Corkscrews & more, capped with an antique Celtic knot.
Please visit our website for detailed information
www.walkingandwadingsticks.com PO Box 17, Dunkeld, Perthshire, PH8 0WB, Scotland
Essential kit
What to look for in a hunting knife Should you buy a folding or fixed blade? Find out with our brief guide
E
VERYONE who hunts requires a knife, and just about anyone who is active in the countryside will need to use one at some point or another. As is the case with most tools, the type of knife you buy will depend on what you want to do with it.
A fixed blade (left) is popular for the stability it offers, while a folding knife (below) fits more easily in a jacket pocket.
TYPES OF BLADE There are a many different blades shapes and cutting edges (eg, serrated). A blade can either be fixed (one-piece) or folding. A hunter needs a knife with a short blade, the most popular being 2½ in to 3 in long with either a drop point or clip point edge. The drop point features an upswept tip, which is perfect for opening the belly of a rabbit without puncturing the guts, and this style of knife has become very popular. A clip point is so called because it looks like the top of the blade at the point has been clipped off giving a sharper definition to the blade’s point. A clip point is designed for more intricate work and fine detail cuts. A drop point is the most useful for hunting.
FOLDING OR FIXED? The first choice to make is between a fixed blade or one that folds. The advantage of a folding blade is that it allows you to carry the knife in a pocket out of the way. If you decide on a folding blade make sure it has a locking mechanism. A folding blade that doesn’t lock open has the potential to result in injury. The fixed blade and sheath is the most popular style of knife with hunters as it can be fixed to a belt and drawn with one hand while holding your quarry with the other. Wood, ood, bone and plastic are the main handle options. A quality carved wooden handle is a popular choice, and usually looks the part, but it is worth bearing in mind that wood can become slippery with rain or dew. CS
KNIVES AND THE LAW Section 139 of the Criminal Justice Act 1988 states that: “It is an offence for any person, without lawful authority or good reason, to have with him (or her) in a public place, any article which has a blade or is sharply pointed except for a folding pocket-knife which has a cutting edge to its blade not exceeding 3 inches.” If you need a knife with you in the field it should only be carried to and from the location, keep it in your house when not in use. Leaving a knife in the car to use when you go shooting would be illegal. It’s important that you don’t carry your knife on your person other than when you are in the field, stopping to buy food or fuel while carrying a knife is breaking the law. Even a folding pocket knife with a blade under 3 in may be considered an offensive weapon if carried or used for that purpose. You should only carry a knife when it is necessary for your hunting, shooting or fishing.
Country Sport
January 2016 23
Preparing a bird
From Field to Fly Shooting not only provideS food for the table, but alSo materialS for flieS. here we Show you how to SKin a bird
24 January 2016 Country Sport
s
ecuring good-quality natural fly-tying materials is not always easy, but in the winter you can prepare them from the birds you or your friends shoot or from local game-dealers. By doing this you not only have an organic meal, but with practice you can prepare enough materials to keep you in flies for the next few seasons. once a source of birds has been found, however, many fly-tyers are unsure how to prepare the game for eating and fly-tying purposes. all you need is a little manual dexterity and a few simple tools and chemicals. the key to producing a good-quality skin is to find mature birds with good-quality feathers. they must be fresh and not badly shot to achieve the best possible result. Skinning birds for fly-tying is more fiddly than preparing for the table. care must be taken not to tear the skin when removing it from the carcass. the method shown here can be used for most gamebirds, including pheasant, snipe, golden plover, grouse and other legal quarry; however, some birds are so difficult to prepare that they are not worth the effort. these include duck, which is too greasy to bother with, and woodcock, which has a very thin skin and tears too easily. (This article was first published in T&S, December 2007.)
Tools for preparing a sKin Just a few simple items are needed: a long fine-bladed knife (a filleting knife is ideal), a scalpel and a pair of strong scissors. The chemicals needed to clean and preserve the skin are acetone (nail polish remover will do) and borax (sodium tetraborate), which are available from a good chemist or on the internet.
How to skin a bird 1
Start by removing the lower part of the bird’s (in this example, a partridge) leg at the joint immediately below the point where feathering begins.
4
Carefully work the crop free of the neck skin, trying your best not to rupture it.
7
Work a finger around the neck, detaching the skin along its entire length. The neck should now be completely skin free.
2
Lay the bird on its back and, using finger and thumb, lift the skin from the breast and with a fine-bladed knife make a small cut in the skin.
5
Insert the knife up the neck from the breast end until the point emerges from just under the bird’s beak. Make a central cut from breast to beak.
8
The skin is firmly attached where the bird’s ears enter its head. Cut through the base of the ear. Do not pull or the skin will tear. Repeat with the other side and work the skin forward past the eyes.
3
Slowly pull apart the skin, splitting it centrally along the breast. Avoid great force or the skin will rip. Continue pulling apart until the breast is exposed.
6
Open out the neck carefully, detaching the skin until the whole underside is exposed.
9
Once the skin has been worked forward past the eyes, cut through the base of the skull at a point just in front of the eye sockets. Be careful to leave both parts of the beak attached to the skin. Country Sport
January 2016 25
Preparing a bird
10
11
12
The head of the bird has now been skinned completely. Use the scissors to detach the bottom part of the beak – this will allow the whole head to be flattened out when the skin is dried.
Work the skin down one of the wings until the second joint from the body is reached; if the skin is firmly attached, cut through any tissue.
Cut through the second wing joint, leaving the wing attached to the partridge’s skin. Repeat the process for the other wing.
13
14
15
Ease the skin back until the top of the leg is found. Peel the skin down the leg, then firmly but gently pull it off the end of the leg. Repeat with the other leg.
Carefully pull the skin back towards the bird’s tail; it should detach easily. Be careful not to pull too hard or you may rip the skin around the tail base.
16
17
Take some newspaper (doubled over) and lay out the skin feather-side up. Make sure all the feathers are in their natural position. There is no need to peg out the skin. Leave it in a cool, dry place for 48 hours, then turn over the skin and leave for another 48 hours. nother 48 hours.
19
Use acetone (ensure the area is well ventilated and free from naked flames) to remove excess fat. To do this pour acetone on to a cloth or kitchen towel and rub the skin. Do not remove all fat; doing so will make the skin brittle. Leave enough so the skin remains flexible. To ensure no parasites are present freeze the skin for a few days. 26 January 2016 Country Sport
Flesh may remain on wing muscles and the tail root. To deal with the wing muscles slash them with a scalpel and open out the flesh. Gently press borax into the flesh of the wings and the tail root. Now hang the skin by the beak for three or four weeks. A partridge skin, carefully removed, with all its fly-tying potential.
The skin is now attached to the carcass only at the base of the tail. Cut through the base of the spine and pull the skin away from the carcass, being careful not to rupture the body cavity. The skinning process is now complete.
18
The skin must now be degreased. This will involve removal of body fat, most of which will be along the centre of the skin and the base of the tail. Any large deposits of fat can be removed by carefully scraping with a blunt knife (a butter knife is ideal).
Game-bird flies
Cock Pheasant
Partridge
Haul a Gwynt
Peeping Caddis
Hen Pheasant
Invicta
(Sun and wind)
Hook Size 10-12 longshank Thread tan
Hook Size 12 wet-fly Thread brown
Hook Size 12 fulling mill 31530
Peeping head tan yarn burnt at one end Rib
Tail golden pheasant crest Body yellow
Silk black Body black ostrich herl
found two-thirds way up cock pheasant neck
Clear monofilament Body dubbed fibres of partridge down Hackle brown partridge body feather Head black or gold metal bead
seal’s fur Body hackle red game cock Rib fine oval silver Throat blue jay Wing hen pheasant secondary slips
A surprisingly good fly for loch-style fishing in windy, bright conditions. Originating in Wales, this pattern has proved its worth on many wild trout lochs.
River trout often feed on cased caddis and this imitation of a caddis larvae encased in a tube of stones or debris can be highly effective when fished deep-nymph style.
A classic, suggestive stillwater wet-fly especially good for imitating sedges.
Cruncher
Hoglouse
Octopus Peter
Wing Crow Hackle gold feather with blue tip
Hook Size 10-14 wet-fly Thread black
Hook Size 10-12 wet-fly Weight lead wire
Hook Size 10 wet-fly Thread rust
Tail golden-brown pheasant body feather
Thread brown Rib fine gold wire
Rib medium oval gold Body green seal’s fur
Rib Copper wire Body Cock pheasant tail Hackle golden-brown pheasant body feather
Body dubbed hare’s fur Hackle brown partridge feather tied flat on top of the body Shell back partridge
Body hackle furnace hen Wing hen pheasant secondary slips Hackle golden pheasant red flank feather
The Cruncher is a great stillwater pattern. It can be tied entirely from the body and tail feathers of the cock pheasant without compromising its effectiveness.
The combination of partridge feather and hare’s fur is perfect for imitating the hoglouse, a creature that is found in great abundance in many lakes and reservoirs.
One for when the clouds touch the water, the waves slap up over the gunnels and wily old browns stir themselves from their slumber. Best fished on the top dropper.
Amber Hopper
March Brown Spider
Fraser nymph
Hook Size 10-12 dry-fly Thread brown
Hook Size 10-12 Thread pearsall’s gossamer
Hook Size 10-16 Kamasan b-830
Rib medium pearl tinsel Body amber seal’s
Thread tan Rib beige cotton Thorax beige
fur Legs Knotted cock pheasant tail fibres Hackle red game cock
no 6a orange Rib fine gold wire Tail brown partridge fibres Body rabbit fur from nape of neck Hackle brown partridge
A classic reservoir dry-fly fished static, usually on the point position and especially effective from mid-summer on, when insect hatches are more prolific.
A great spring fly for trout feeding on March browns, large brook duns or large dark olives. Fish in a team of three Spiders or with a weighted nymph on the point.
Thorax blue pheasant neck feathers, dubbed
dubbing (rabbit) Tail and body 8-10 hen pheasant centre tail fibres Thorax cover and legs hen pheasant centre tail Tied almost exclusively with hen pheasant tail, this classic nymph is still a deadly fly on today’s stillwaters. Country Sport
January 2016 27
Art
“I work under a magnifying glass”
Keith SyKeS’S Scraperboard animal portraitS are admired for their extraordinary detail Country Sport spoke to Keith Sykes at his studio in Lancashire. We began by asking him when he started shooting. Keith: At about the age of 12. My father was a keen wildfowler, target rifle and pistol shot. My first shooting experiences were wildfowling on Morecambe Bay, rough shooting and target shooting. i shot clays in my teens, particularly DtL (down-the-line) and used to rough shoot with friends. these days i do less wildfowling but still enjoy it once i manage to get out of bed. My two sons are very keen, so it is nice to join them, although on most outings i take a camera in lieu of a gun, probably a sign of getting old. these days i shoot more game and have stalked roe and red deer. i am fortunate to receive some very nice invitations to shoot driven game and stalk deer as part of my artwork “research”. If you had the option to shoot anywhere in the British Isles, where would it be? Shooting on any grouse moor is just magical and i love the red deer on the hills of Scotland. the challenging pheasants and partridges of some of the Yorkshire shoots are very enjoyable and i still enjoy my wildfowling roots on Morecambe Bay, but it is the company that makes the day, particularly when shooting game. Do you enjoy other country sports, such as fishing? in the past i have done a very small amount of sea fishing not far from my doorstep. During recent years i have been involved in a couple of weeks’ fishing for salmon in Scotland
with my contemporaries on “artists’ fishing holidays”. Despite not having a clue what i was doing those trips were great fun, enhanced of course by the company (food and booze)! What is your favourite time of the year? While the first few days of the grouse season in August are very pleasant and celebrate the start of the shooting season i prefer to shoot game and wildfowl when winter has truly arrived, so cold frosty days are my favourites, but preferably those without heavy rain (another sign of getting old)… tell us about your artistic background. i confess to being self-taught. i have always enjoyed drawing and painting and i began to produce dog portraits with ink on scraperboard in my late teens (a long time ago). For many years i produced detailed architectural drawings, when i worked as an engineer for the local authority and as a building officer for the NhS, which began in the early 1980s. Design and drawing-board skills were a large part of the NhS job and these evolved into the use of CAD, but in my latter years working for the NhS my role was mainly the project management of large capital schemes. i reduced my hours to part-time for a few years before becoming a full-time artist in 2009. Which artist has inspired you most? Because wildfowling was a passion in my early shooting career the work of Sir Peter Scott was a great inspiration. Rodger McPhail was also a member of the Morecambe Bay Wildfowlers’ Association in his teens and at the time he was illustrating regularly in Shooting Times. his work was and still is very influential. Why did you choose to work with animals and game? I suppose it made a change from buildings. My pictures were and continue to be associated with my passion for shooting and the countryside. Most of the dog portraits I produce are gundogs and most of the animals are quarry.
28 January 2016 Country Sport
you work with scraperboard, which is a difficult medium. Assuming you make a mistake how do you correct it? Scraperboard is wonderful for depicting the texture of hair. the work is certainly timeconsuming and much of it is carried out under a magnifying glass. Mistakes are difficult if not impossible to rectify so the process is unforgiving and planning is essential. i need to work in a very clean environment. i scratch the ink from the surface of the scraperboard with various tools, mainly needles that i sharpen every 15 minutes. this creates a dust that must be removed to avoid smudging. What is your favourite animal subject? i love dogs and trying to capture their personalities, but i enjoy the fun stuff, too, such as running wild boar, rabbits and hares, as well as the more serious pictures of deer and some of the African stuff, such as Cape buffalo. What do you find most difficult to illustrate? Working from a poor reference is extremely difficult. i dread “dead dog jobs”, when people contact me after their beloved friend has passed away and the only photos they have are of the dog sitting at the bottom of the garden photographed with a Kodak instamatic from 20 yards away! the most time-consuming pictures are white dogs or horses; they involve lots of “scratching”. of which piece are you most proud? i wouldn’t say i am proud of any of my pictures but through my eyes some work out better than others. i am always relieved when a client is delighted with a commission and it’s even better if the animal’s owner sheds a tear (for all the right reasons), which happens quite often.
Keith Sykes with a brace of grouse.
to have a healthy order book, but i also produce more commercial and general images for exhibitions, book illustrations and events such as game fairs. Where can people see you exhibit? Redspot artists are pro-active with regard to exhibiting work. We have regularly shown at the CLA Game Fair and other prestigious venues, and there is the successful Redspot Gallery in Shrewsbury. We are always considering our options and these include galleries in London and elsewhere. i have no plans for a “one-man show”; i’m too busy with an increasing list of commissions to build a portfolio to fill a gallery on my own. i would hope to participate in a venture with Redspot during 2016. CS View Keith’s work at www.kjsykes.com (tel: 01524 852 156).
Do you mix with other artists? Yes. i’ve been a member of the Redspot group of artists since 2003 [Facebook: search “Redspot Artists”]. there are currently nine of us from various corners of the UK and we are in constant contact via e-mail and telephone and get together as often as possible. We are more than just colleagues and friends and all get on very well and that is one of the main prerequisites of being part of the group. Of course, many of us enjoy fieldsports, so these events provide a good excuse to get together. i also have many artist friends outside the Redspot clan. From my experience, artists are supportive of each other, rather than competitive. Do you work on commissions only? Most of my work is commission-based and i am fortunate Country Sport
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Food
Mike Robinson is the UK’s leading game chef and owner of The Pot Kiln, Berkshire and London’s only Michelin starred pub The Harwood Arms. He is a passionate deerstalker and game-shooter, and would rather harvest ingredients from the fields and woodlands than a shop.
Harissa roasted partridge This spicy dish is very easy to prepare and extremely tasty – it will take you less than half an hour to make ARTRIDGE HAS a subtle taste and is a good introduction for anyone trying game for the first time. The texture and flavour is very similar to chicken. Since partridge might not be punchy enough for bolder palates, the spice from the harissa will step
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up the flavours. Harissa is a fiery, aromatic paste made from chilli, spices and herbs. It is widely used in North African and Middle Eastern cuisines as a condiment, or sometimes mixed with water or tomato juice to flavour stews, soups or couscous. As it’s strong and pungent, a little goes a long way for those who like it hot. CS
1. Harissa is simple to make. Make it three or four days beforehand so the flavours can settle. Add the de-stalked, chopped chillies, garlic, olive oil and lemon zest to a food processor and whizz up until everything is coarsely chopped. 2. Scoop into a bowl, mix with sea salt and add a squeeze of lemon juice. 3. To “spatchcock” or open out a partridge, turn it over so its spine faces you (if it’s trussed, remove the string). Use kitchen or game scissors to snip along the spine. Turn the partridge over, skin-side up, and open it out. Use the heel of your hand to flatten it. 4. Rub harissa over each bird. Place them skin-side up on a roasting tray.
Serves 4
·· 420partridges hot red chillies, roughly chopped of garlic ·· 24 cloves tbsp of olive oil of 2 lemons and a squeeze of juice ·· Zest 2 tbsp of Maldon sea salt
5. Roast in a hot oven, 230 deg C/450 deg F/ Gas Mark 8 for 15 to 20 minutes and then rest for 10 minutes. 6. Chop the roasted partridge into quarters and serve on a pile of couscous simply cooked with raisins, saffron, lemon and olive oil. 7. Don’t forget to add a dollop of cool, tangy yoghurt to cut through the bold harissa. Country Sport
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