Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - February 2016 by Gambero Rosso

YEAR 21 N. 93 - FEBRUARY 2016

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD 速

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GIN DO IT BETTER?

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COVER STORY 38 | Gin. Do Italians do it Better? Italy = Grappa? Certainly, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what tradition says. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also true that the passion for mixed drinks and international fashions have made gin one of the trendiest spirits in the world, Italy included. Dozens of distilleries produce excellent gin, and many of them are from the Italian boot. Here are the 15 best labels.

WINE

26 | Riserva di Coltibuono. A classic for the decades Even a super-well-known territory can provide fresh emotions. This vertical tasting of Badia a Coltibuono was extraordinary and moving. It reached back to labels from the 1940s, an example of a Chianti Classico that despite fashion, life styles and climate change, has maintained its unique and inimitable character. 36 | Sangiovese and the Monks Recent studies reveal that sangiovese thrives in Tuscany and Romagna, thanks to the monks of Vallombrosa

february 2016 2

FEBRUARY 2016

«Wine is sunlight held together by water.» Galileo Galilei 1564-1642 75

68 | Best Buys Calabria 2016 Strong personalities and low prices characterise this region’s wines

74 | Italian extra-virgin 2015 – An elegant year The quality of the new Italian extra-virgin olive oils is very good: few intense fruit sensations, but many UMLQ]U IVL TQOP\ NZ]Q\a JW\\TM[ _Q\P IZWUI[ IVL ÆI^WZ[ that will please consumers.

TRAVEL 50 | Spicy Calabria When we say Calabria, we usually think of beaches and sunshine. But on the plateau of the Sila, a few kilometers from the coast, in winter we can enjoy skiing and an Alpine atmosphere

FOOD 60 | Recipes from Great Chefs Pietro Lecce approaches one of Italy’s most evocative terroirs, Calabria, with an open, curious mind, traditions drawn from his origins, but also a desire to know the world. In the same way, he brings with him the rebellious talent of his son Emanuele…

3 FEBRUARY 2016

EDITORIAL

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Whether affected by a cork or unusual evolution, unpredictability can be positive or damnably negative. We damnly love wine for this special nature. It is a durable good, but complex and unpredictable in its evolution. ?M \PW]OP\ IJW]\ \PQ[ _PMV _M WXMVML I +PQIV\Q +TI[[QKW :Q[MZ^I ! NZWU *ILQI I +WT\QJ]WVW QV I ZMKMV\ ^MZ\QKIT \I[\QVO \PI\ KW^MZML aMIZ[ · aW]¼TT ÅVL Q\ LM[KZQJML QV \PQ[ Q[[]M <PM KWTWZ _I[ T]UQVW][ IVL KWUXIK\ 1V ! \PMZM _MZM VW \MKPVWTWOQ-

Lorenzo Ruggeri 4 JANUARY 2016

EVENTS

CHICAGO

NEW YORK The greatest consumer of Italian wines in the world is the United States, and the Gambero Rosso events this year confirmed that passion, demonstrating an interest in Italian grape varieties unmatched around the world. Our classic Tre Bicchieri event was held in Chicago, New York and San 6 FEBRUARY 2016

SAN FRANCISCO

SEATTLE Francisco, while the Top Italian Wines Roadshow opened in Seattle, meeting with a success that went beyond our expectations. To all those who participated, a grandissimo thanks for your continuing faith in us. You made the difference. Grazie. 7 FEBRUARY 2016

WINE AND ECONOMY

LOWER-ALCOHOL WINES SURGE More consumers are choosing lower-alcohol wines, according to Wine Intelligence, in their 2016 multimarket report. Between 2012 and 2014 they analyzed the market for three segments of lower alcohol content wine: below 5%, from 6% to 8.5%, from 9% to 10.5%. Research showed, among eight major wine-consuming countries, that the North American market evidenced the strongest trend. Canada, in particular, is the country with the most marked growth, from 5.1 to 7 million buyers, up 22%, chose wines between 6% and 8.5% degrees of alcohol. The nearby USA market is still one of the most important, with 40 million lower-alcohol consumers, about 43% of habitual wine drinkers. Among the most promis-

ing markets, the United Kingdom shows 34% of consumers opting for lower-alcohol wine, with another 20% who describe themselves as likely purchasers, above all for health reasons. Germany, points out Wine Intelligence, is the market with the highest percentage of consumers among those surveyed, 47%, thanks also to the preponderance of local producers who opt for this style of wine. France is a different story. Low-alcohol wine consumers have dropped from 12 to 7.7 million. The phenomenon, according to the report, is a cultural one. French do not consider this category of product to be wine. Richard Halstead, COO of Wine Intelligence, said: “It is evident that lower alcohol wines have strong potential to grow in multiple markets, but for now, the category remains fairly niche. A crucial factor in determining whether or not this change can OIQV [QOVQÅKIV\ UWUMV\]U _QTT JM \PM IJQTQ\a WN TW_MZ alcohol wines to overcome what is probably still their biggest stumbling block: many people just don’t know about them.”

BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR makes changes

Less chitchat and more sales seems to be the strategy of the ‘Semaine des Primeurs’ of the Union des Grands Crus of Bordeaux. This year, the target is highly selected. The chateaux, from April 4 to 7, will open their doors only to importers and wine merchants. So

what will become of journalists and wine enthusiasts? Journalists will be hosted at the new city stadium, Stade Matmut-Atlantique, for two days instead of the usual four, while the closing day is reserved for tasting. Another change, unpopular with Bordeaux habitués, is the decision to omit blind tastings. “We have to set some limits,“, explained the Union des Grands Crus president, Olivier Bernard. “In recent years we have tried to make everyone happy, but it’s really not possible.“ 8 FEBRUARY 2016

ASIAN MARKETS: surprises from South Korea. Projections for 2019

ARGENTINA RELAUNCHES EXPORTS Mauricio Macri, newly elected president of Argentina, is dedicated to an acceleration of his country’s economy. According to the recent Rabobank report, his decision to eliminate export taxes has made Argentinian wine much more competitive on the world market, above all in China and Japan, where its direct competitors are Chile and Australia. Meanwhile, demand for bulk wine from the United States, Argentina’s key market, is falling. The price per liter for bulk Argentinian wine had risen from $2.52 in 2012 to $3.05 in 2015, putting pressure on exports. In 2014, American imports of bulk wine from Argentina fell 60%. Things seem to be changing now. “Argentina has a history of sharp downturns, followed by rapid recovery, and the wine industry is VW_ XWQ[ML \W JMOQV \PM XMZQWL WN ZIXQL ZMKW^MZa º [Ia[ \PM ZMXWZ\ *]\ ÅZ[\ \PM KW]V\Za _QTT PI^M \W ÅVL VM_ UIZSM\[ IVL ILWX\ XZQKQVO XWTQKQM[ \PI\ IT[W TWWS \W \PM N]\]ZM ;MIZKPQVO NWZ QUUMLQI\M XZWÅ\[ UQOP\ VW\ JM \PM ZQOP\ strategy in the long run. 9 FEBRUARY 2016

Between 2015 and 2019, the market for wine in South Korea will rise 16.2%, compared to a predicted world growth of 1.4%. These are some of the predictions in the IWSR report (International Wine and Spirit Research) carried out for Vinexpo Hong Kong 2016. Korean consumption could rise from 3.29 million 9-liter cases in 2014, according to the report, to 3.90 million in 2019. In 2010, per capita consumption of red wine was .62 bottles, in 2014, it rose to an encouraging .76 (+22.6) and, according to the IWSR report, in 2019, it could reach .87 bottles consumed annually (+11.5%). Red wines are favored, accounting for 73.5% of total consumption, compared to 26.5% of white. Importers are headed by Chile. Thanks to a free trade agreement, in 2014 Chile sold .85 million cases on the Korean market. France follows with .52 million cases and Italy with .49 million (+35.9% compared to 2010). Although Korea promises interesting surprises, predictions for China appear disappointing. Consumption is going down and will continue in that direction in the next years: -3% between 2014 and 2019.

WINE AND ECONOMY

USA CONSUMPTION: Millennials outdrink Boomers The Millennials are the American generation that drinks the most wine. The age group from 21 to 38 years old, according to data in a report from Wine Market Council, accounts for 36% of wine consumers, followed by that of the Boomers (51-69 years old) who, for the first time, despite making up 34% of the population, were out-run in this particular competition. Generation X, those between 39 and 50 years old, make up 18% of the population, while those above 69 account for 12% of consumers. As for trends, Millennials (+ 10%) and Generation X (+ 5%) drink more than before. Other groups are on the way down. Average annual wine consumption per capita in the USA is 20 bottles.

Protected varietal names will not be touched. Phil Hogan, European Union Commissioner for Agriculture, reassures Italy European Union Commissioner for Agriculture, Phil Hogan, reassured Italy’s Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies, Maurizio Martina, about the amendment now under consideration promoting the liberalization of varietal names. The idea that varieties such as lambrusco, barbera, vermentino, primitivo, falanghina, teroldego and many other grapes protected under European Regulation 607/2009 could be produced in other countries angered the Italian wine consortiums. But Hogan stated, “We have no intention of making changes that would damage the present system of qual-

ity winemaking in Italy,” and, in a meeting with Minister Martina on January 25,, Martina reasserted that Italy is not ready for “any concession” because “acquired rights cannot be touched.” Now, before agricultural organizations around the country let down their guard, Italians are waiting for the withdrawal of the draft of the act pertaining to the liberalization of the use of grape varietal names. The threat is that other European wineproducing countries such as Spain could label a wine, for example Lambrusco, triggering unfair competition and damaging effects on their neighbors.

10 FEBRUARY 2016

WORLDTOUR 2016 Vini d’Italia 2016

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NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

THE COUNTRYSIDE IN A BOTTLE. Fresh air from English meadows for wealthy Chinese. idea – package the pleasant air of the English countryside and sell it at a hefty price, above all in China, where pollution levels are at dramatic levels. Aethaer, the company founded by De Watts, collects pure air on the hills and valleys of Somerset, Wales and Dorset, and captures it in 568 ml containers that sell for 88£, about 100 euros. Within a few weeks, De Watts has already sold 180 containers on line.

A few months ago, the Canadian company Vitality Air launched their product: cans that appeared empty, but in reality, were full of air from the Rocky Mountains. It was an innovative way to deliver a breath of fresh air to the inhabitants of polluted cities. Leo De Watts, a 27-year old, had the same

AMAZON SOMMELIER: the new service from the e-commerce colossus Amazon, the most famous on-line sales company in the world, has added another service to its roster. In Japan, Jeff Bezos’ company introduced a virtual sommelier who can provide advice about which wine to buy on line. A team of real live sommeliers, supervised by Japanese wine guru Miyuki Hara, is available from noon to 5 p.m for users who want to know more about the 8,000 labels in Amazon’s wine cellar. By providing a phone contact, shoppers can receive a call from one of the experts, ready to answer any wine questions. Amazon Sommelier joined to Amazon Prime, the company’s rapid delivery service, will certainly soon make its way to other markets.

12 FEBRUARY 2016

FRANCE APPROVES A LAW AGAINST FOOD WASTE. Here’s what is changing In line with the themes of Expo Milano 2015, the world is gearing up IOIQV[\ NWWL _I[\M ) ÅVM M`IUXTM of this civil responsibility comes from France where the Senate recently approved a law that makes NWWL _I[\M QTTMOIT <PM ÅZ[\ [\MX _I[ to oblige restaurants to provide a doggy bag for clients when requested. The next was the anti-waste law, written by socialist, environmental and left-wing radical parties and approved by 300 deputies from both the majority and opposition parties. In February, 2015, the Senate passed \PM TI_ LMÅVQ\Q^MTa ;]XMZUIZSM\[ are not allowed to throw away or destroy unsold edible food and instead must donate it to appropriate charitable associations. Products that are returned to their distributor, which up to now have been necessarily destroyed, can instead be donated. Data show that in France, supermarkets are responsible for 10% of food waste, while 70% is attributable to poor housekeeping habits in private homes. The next step, therefore, is to educate the young about food waste. French schools are already beginning to discuss the issue.

THE CASE OF THE MEAT VENDING MACHINE. Normal in Germany, the first comes to Paris. Is Italy next? For the last few weeks, at 120 Rue de Charonne, XI arrondissement in Paris, the doorway of the Basque butcher, L’Ami Txulette, has been capturing the attention of passersby. Florence Pouzol, the entrepreneurial owner, has installed a meatdispensing vending machine to serve his customers 24/7 in a city where food shops are closed by law on Sundays. The gadget is a winner. PoubWT Q[ \PM ÅZ[\ QV \PM KQ\a \W \Za Q\ IVL discussion on social media has been fervent. But France already has four ‘automatic butchers’ active in the provinces, and in Germany, they are everywhere. The system, of course, has met with resistance on the part of those who fear the slow substitu\QWV WN \PM NIUQTQIZ ÅO]ZM JMPQVL \PM counter with the chilling machine. But the Parisian butcher chose this path to guarantee better service IVL QVKZMI[M XZWÅ\[ I[ XZW^MV Ja shops that have already tried it out. The facts seem to support Pouzol. Many of his neighbors in the XI arrondissement have purchased their steaks and sausages, credit card in hand, late at night. “The vending machine offers a selection of our products which we prepare and vacuum-pack ourselves,” said Pouzol. “We wanted to give our customers an additional service when the shop is closed.”

COOKED. The Netflix documentary series from a book by Michael Pollan on the cultural value of food preparation In the United States, 6M\ÆQ` Q[ continuing to bet on quality productions. One good example is Chef ’s Table. <PM ÅZ[\ [Mries of six episodes, widely watched, showed the professional life of some of the world’s greatest chefs. Now the media platform is delving more into food documentaries, signing on Michael Pollan, respected writer, journalist

and scholar (he teaches at UC Berkeley’s Graduate School of Journalism). His book Cooked looks at the ancient culinary traditions that have shaped human lives. He examines four different cooking methods based on VI\]ZIT MTMUMV\[" ÅZM _I\MZ IQZ IVL earth. The 4-episode series, released WV 6M\ÆQ` WV .MJZ]IZa ! Q[ ^QM_IJTM by American audiences. Each episode concentrates on a different natural element and its relationship to cooking and transformation methods, both ancient and modern, following Pollan’s own approach. Subjects include barbecue, aboriginal Australian cooking traditions, Indian cuisine, breadmaking and fermentation processes.

JAPANESE CUISINE AROUND THE WORLD. Authenticity certificates for the real thing. When we speak about Japanese cuisine, confusion reigns. Poor imitations and all-you-can-eat restaurants are part of the great international melting pot of Asian cooking. The Japanese government has decided to limit the indiscriminate proliferation of pseudo-Japanese eating places around the world, protecting with IV WNÅKQIT KMZ\QÅKI\M I]\PMV\QK ZM[taurants that are true ambassadors of washoku (On December 4, 2013, “Washoku, traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese, notably for the celebration of New Year” was added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage). For now, the idea is not yet law, but its public approval indicates it might soon be. In detail, the regulation proposed by the Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Ministry will consider a chef ’s selection of ingredients, preparation, respect for and 13 FEBRUARY 2016

comprehension of Japanese culture, presentation and service, as well as attention to aesthetics. Winning cer\QÅKI\QWV _QTT ZMY]QZM I KWWS \W [\]La in Japan to learn the rudiments of local cuisine, which also means that recognition will be available to nonJapanese professionals. Stays will vary from brief courses to two-year or more programs.

ITALIAN CHEFS ABROAD

by Stefania Annese

Antica Osteria del Ponte Tokyo Tokyo ia foodies’ paradise. In Tokyo, Great Italian names are celebrated for their superb quality and their desire to show exigent Japanese clients what authentic cucina is really like. One of these is Antica Osteria del Ponte, located on the \PQZ\a [Q`\P ÆWWZ WN \PM 5IZ]VW]chi building near Tokyo’s railroad station. It offers a delightful setting, an astonishing view, and a place to enjoy Italy’s best food and most out[\IVLQVO _QVM[ 5IVIOMUMV\ Q[ QV the hands of two Italians who look after the kitchen and the wine celTIZ ZM[XMK\Q^MTa ;\MNIVW ,IT 5WZW chef, and Simone Berardelli, sommelier, tell us about their travels and their experience in this great city. When did your food and wine adventures abroad begin?

Stefano Dal Moro: I was born in San Vito al Tagliamento, but always lived in Portogruaro in the province WN >MVQKM 5a IL^MV\]ZM[ JMOIV QV \PI\ TQ\\TM \W_V )N\MZ 1 ÅVQ[PML Ua [\]LQM[ I[ I KWWS 1 PIL Ua ÅZ[\ QUportant work experience at the Trat\WZQI LITT¼)UMTQI QV 5M[\ZM _PMZM 1 got to know the owner, Dino Boscarato, and his chef, Ettore Alzetta. It was Ettore who helped me take Ua ÅZ[\ JQO [\MX[ QV Ua XZWNM[[QWV convincing me to travel in order to perfect my skills. So I went to Paris, to the Le Carpaccio restaurant and was part of the brigade of chef Giacomo Gallina and Angelo Paracucchi. I spent some of my most memorable moments there, on both a personal and a professional level. Then, after working for a short period in London, I was asked to come here to Japan and launch the Antica Osteria del Ponte in 2002. Contact 14 FEBRUARY 2016

with Ezio Santin, chef at the Antica Osteria, was essential to my development. Thanks to him I learned about an approach to cooking that was new to me, and that is still continuously evolving: give special attention to the use of ingredients of extreme quality. Simone Berardelli. 5a NI[KQVItion with wine and with the profession of sommelier began, like many stories, by chance. I had always worked part-time in restaurants in Rome, where I was born. When I decided to go deeper, I started down the path that led me to the Fondazione Italiana Sommelier. I came to Tokyo in September of 2014 and immediately afterwards (my plane landed on the 20th and my interview was on the 25th) I was given the opportunity to begin work at the Japanese branch of Sabatini of Florence. After about 6 months, I

moved to Antica Osteria del Ponte. The story of this last year has been one of hard work and of getting used to a social and business world totally opposite to what I knew in Italy. I also had to deal with the bureaucracy for obtaining a work visa, which is a real burden for all foreigners here in Japan. What is the reputation of Italian food abroad and how does your clientele relate to that? Stefano Dal Moro: Japanese clients fall into two groups – those who know Italian wine and food well, and those who see it as only spaghetti, pizza and Chianti. Thanks to continual East and West exchanges, it has been possible to go past these stereotypes and today we can show them a varied and vast range of quality Italian products. Simone Berardelli: The Japanese PI^M OWWL UIVVMZ[ IVL [PW_ QVÅnite courtesy, but when we speak of service, often, as an Italian, it becomes complicated. We run into an endless wall of unwritten and apparently illogical rules that are, however, basic to the client-restaurateur rapport. In Japan, ‘no’ doesn’t exist, that is, there is no direct refusal of an of-

fer because it would seem vulgar and rude. As far as cucina is concerned, the Italian brand here means qualQ\a KPIZU [\aTM OZMI\ ÆI^WZ ?PI\ is missing, though, is promotion of the image of quality in wine. Often clients come to Antica Osteria del Ponte without understanding the absolutely primary role that the world of wine plays in Italy. It hurts a little to see how clients gravitate around \PW[M Å^M WZ \MV VIUM[ \PI\ PI^M made us important in the world. But our country has the greatest varietal LQ^MZ[QÅKI\QWV QV XZWXWZ\QWV \W Q\[ cultivated territory, and I would like to see more attention paid to that aspect of our market. What was the strangest request you ever received? Which was the most expensive wine you ever opened? Stefano Dal Moro: I don’t remember any absurd request. One episode has stayed in my mind, though. Some clients ordered a tasting menu, from antipasto to dessert, and only drank grappa. Nine glasses of it. Simone Berardelli: There have been some strange requests. Aged red wine to be served ice cold, wine to be poured by the centiliter, a reY]M[\ NWZ [XMKQÅK [WVO[ \W JM XTIaML as background music for the entire room. And someone asked me, “Do you serve on black plates? Because I don’t eat from black plates.” As far as wine goes, clients in Tokyo don’t worry about expense. Among the most expensive bottles on the wine list is a spumanti Cuvée Annamaria Clementi di Ca’ del Bosco at about 32,000 ¥, (250 euros); for champagne, Salón Cuvée “S” 1988, 160,000¥ (1,200 euros) or Bollinger R.D. 2002 at 78,000¥ (600 euros). Among the Italian whites is Terlaner Grand Cuvée at a cost of 100,000¥ (about 800 euros) and there’s the .ZMVKP *I\pZL 5WV\ZIKPM\ 4W]Q[ Jadot 1998 at 80,000¥. Among the 1\ITQIV ZML[ IZM *IZWTW 5WVNWZ\QVW Riserva Giacomo Conterno and 15 FEBRUARY 2016

Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia 2001 at 52,000¥ (400) euros. What do we Italians need to learn from Japanese culture? Stefano Dal Moro: We need to learn that whatever is at the service of all is in part, also ours. We have to respect what’s public. We pay taxes to have it! A civic sense is basic to an advanced society. Simone Berardelli: I think that cultures, like the members of a couple, have to know, understand and tolerate their individual diversity. As an Italian abroad, I’m living in a different society. I don’t try to become Japanese but I try to bring what I am as an individual and as a representative of my culture to a faraway and very different culture. I don’t try to impose myself on them nor do I let them do that to me. So we create a reciprocal exchange where both parties contribute to pursuing a common goal.

WINE OF THE MONTH

Orange wine and duck tagliatelle: sublime ! Collio Ribolla Gialla di Oslavia Ris. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;11 Primosic 8,000 bottles ex-cellar price: 14.50 euros

The slope of Oslavia, bulwark of the Collio hill zone on the border with Slovenia, enjoys a unique microclimate particularly suited to grape-growing. The Primosic family settled here at the end of the 19th century, and now Marko and Boris manage the winery founded by their father, Silvestro, in 1956. An important zoning project, aimed at recognizing individual crus, led to identifying the locations best suited for each variety. The name of each wine is often accompanied by the name of the vineyard from which its grapes come. Moreover, using ancestral methods that involve macerating the grapes, whites included, they produce Riserva labels that, years later, can still evoke the emotions of their early days. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tasting brought an exceptional version of Ribolla Gialla di Oslavia into the spotlight, the Riserva 2011. It was one of the wines that impressed us the most during the round of tastings. Mature but also youthfully rebellious, it is fragrant with orange zest (but the citrus sensations manage to embrace all the citrus family), blond tobacco, a touch of peat and of apricot tart. A rich and complex wine, it maintains rhythm and stunning drinkability. Try it with tagliatelle in duck ragout, brightened with a few fresh thyme leaves.

16 FEBRUARY 2016

TWITTER dixit Winetracker.co

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17 FEBRUARY 2016

DESIGN

B-SIDE STUF

FUTURISTIC FORKS Wide-spread use of the fork gradually emerged from changes in Italian eating habit and the invention of pasta. Scholars once thought that the ancient Romans didn’t use NWZS[ IT\PW]OP ÅVLQVO I SQVL WN \ZI^MT NWWL [MZ^QKM QV[QLM a tomb on the necropolis of Albintimilum (Ventimiglia – I-II century A.D.) in 1917 made them question that as[]UX\QWV <PM ÅZ[\ LWK]UMV\ML XZWWN WN \PM NWZS¼[ ][M is in an illustrated manuscript of the 11th century. In the Rabanus Maurus Glossaria of Montecassino, two men are shown seated at a table, each with a fork and a knife. One is bringing the fork to his mouth. <PM ÅZ[\ UMV\QWV WN NWZS ][M QV \PM 5QLLTM Ages dates to the 11th century. It was seen as an instrument of the devil, resembling a pitchfork. A Greek princess called Theodora was sent to Venice to marry the Doge Domenico Selvo. “Among the artifacts she brought with her was a fork which she used to eat meals. A disapproving chronicler tells us: ‘She did not touch KEYTLERY

the food with her hands but had each dish cut into tiny pieces by her eunuchs, which she then advanced to her mouth using a sort of miniature golden spear with two prongs, and barely tasted.’ The Princess later died of a wasting disease and ecclesiast San Pier Damiani (1007-1072) thought this a just punishment for such a sin.” (Elizabeth Chadwick, Living the History blog) From the 17th century, the use of the fork and the other eating utensils slowly spread around Europe and by the 18th century, it became an essential part of table settings. The chamberlain of Bourbon King Ferdinand IV had forks with four tines to make eating spaghetti easier. Today, we can’t imagine eating without forks or the other elements of place settings. Grand designers are working to make these everyday tools more eco-friendly, maneuverable, elegant, innovative and – why not? – more communicative. Giulio Iacchetti, who has been in the industrial design world since 1992, made Bamboo, for Pandora. It is a set of single-use utensils in wood. The fork is made from the central body of the knife. BAMBOO 18

FEBRUARY 2016

There are different versions, such as one in polypropylene and another in silver. Standing Ovation, another of Iacchetti’s designs, is a set of utensils anchored at the base so they can stand vertically, marking a place setting. .WZ \PW[M _PW PI^M VW \QUM \W TMI^M \PM WNÅKM WZ even their desks, Din-ink is a set of tops that transform a normal ballpoint pen into an eating utensil. This creation comes from the collaboration of Andrea Cingoli, Paolo Emilio Bellisario, Cristian Cellini and Francesca Fontana. Last year their imaginative project won the “Dining 2015” prize. Seletti dal 1964 is an institution in the housewares sector, and admired for its innovative approaches to daily life. Alessandro Zambelli, from Emilia, designed the splendid and unusual Keytlery, with 24 pieces, for Seletti. Made in stainless steel, this key-inspired cutlery includes six knives, forks, tablespoons and tea[XWWV[ ITT ÅVQ[PML QV I OWTL KWTWZ <PM XQMKM[ IZM plated with titanium for longer-lasting and corrosionproof lives, and are available in black and white as well. Founded in 1979 in Trieste, Italesse is known for its esthetically pleasing and technically satisfying professional articles. Tomas Alonso, armed with an international background and artisanal wizardry, designed the easily transportable Stamp for Italesse. The three pieces in stainless steel, light and compact, resolve the space-saving problem gracefully. Alessandro Busana, born in Padua in 1977, created B-Side Stuf, IV QV[\Z]UMV\ \PI\ [I\Q[ÅM[ JW\P -I[\ IVL West, Hybrid and comunicative, it responds to the new waves of globalization by offering an all-in-one eating utensil – is it a fork or chopsticks? A project that goes beyond simple usefulness is the brain child of Italo-Swiss artist Giuseppe Colarusso. His Improbabilità includes a series of unconventional, surreal objects. “With irony and humor, I try to underline some futile aspects of our contemporary era, such as, for example, the excesses of consumerism or the uselessness of many things we feel we need to own, or even the deceitful messages of advertising,” the artist states. So his table settings are made with rope handles, which make them impossible to use. Buy them when you’re trying to lose weight!

DIN-INK

STAMP

Stefania Annese STANDING OVATION

19 FEBRUARY 2016

DO AS CALABR

PAIRING

drawings by Chiara Buosi

Crostini with ‘nduia

CIRO BIANCO

Macaroni with goat sauce SAVUTO ROSSO SUPERIORE

Pipi chini (stuffed peppers)

TERRE DI COSENZA BIANCO

20 FEBRUARY 2016

THE IANS DO Fried pork

CIRO ROSSO CLASSICO

Burrino cheese MELISSA BIANCO

La pitta ‘mpigliata

21 FEBRUARY 2016

GRECO DI BIANCO

FOODIES

TOURING COSENZA Let’s begin our tour of Cosenza’s historic cen\MZ _PMZM _M ÅVL WVM WN 1\ITa¼[ WTLM[\ IVL UW[\ ZMVW_VML KINu[ :MVbMTTQ *ZMISNI[\ Q[ IT_Ia[ I XTMI[]ZM J]\ \PM OZMI\M[\ LMTQOP\ Q[ \PM ^IZKPQOTQI ITTI UWVIKITM I KPWKWTI\M KW^MZML XI[\Za KZMI\QWV ]VQY]M \W \PQ[ TWKITM *MMZ TW^MZ[ U][\ UISM I ^Q[Q\ \W 6IJJQZZI I JMMZ XTIKM _PMZM \PM JM[\ 1\ITQIV IVL NWZMQOV XZWL]K\QWV Q[ I^IQTIJTM QVKT]LQVO \PM PWUM OZW_V ») 5IOIZI <PM NWWL Q[ QV\MZM[\QVO I[ _MTT" \W IKKWUXIVa aW]Z LZQVS K]ZML UMI\[ IVL KPMM[M[ NZWU +ITIJZQI IVL W\PMZ ZMOQWV[ I[ _MTT I[ []ZXZQ[QVO TWKIT LQ[PM[ []KP I[ \PM KIZJWVIZI IV\QKI UILM _Q\P [UWSML PMZZQVO 1V \PM VM_ XIZ\ WN \PM KQ\a ^Q[Q\ \PM XMLM[\ZQIV bWVM IVL [\WX I\ 1T ;IT]UIQW I [PWX _PW[M [PMT^M[ PWTL \PM JM[\ IZ\Q[IVIT OW]ZUM\ XZWL]K\[ +ITIJZM[M IVL VW\ ;\ZMM\ NWWL NIV[ U][\ [IUXTM XQbbI Ja \PM [TQKM I\ +ZQ[\QVQ" \PM IUXTM KPWQKM QVKT]LM[ XQbbI _Q\P IZ\QKPWSM[ KITbWVQ ÅTTML _Q\P

EXPLORING CALABRIA. A seldom-visited city of many delights, not only culinary. Cosenza’s food, artisanal beer and great cured meats...

22 FEBRUARY 2016

\WUI\W [I]KM IVL XZW^WTI KPMM[M I[ _MTT I[ XIVQVQ IVL \ZIUMbbQVQ XWX]TIZ \ZQIVO]TIZ KZ][\TM[[ [IVL_QKPM[ *WQTQVO WQT Z]TM[ \PM LIa I\ ;QIUW .ZQ\\Q TQ\MZITTa ?M¼ZM .ZQML IV M`XZM[[QWV \PI\ ZM[MUJTM[ »_M¼ZM KWWSML¼ _M¼ZM QV JIL \ZW]JTM 5MI\JITT[ WZ MOOXTIV\ KZWY]M\\M[ IVKPW^QM[ ^MOM\IJTM[ ÅTTML XI[\I JZMIL Å[P JIKKITo IVL XW\I\WM[ · M^MZa\PQVO Q[ OTWZQÅML Ja NZaQVO .QZ[\ KW]Z[M[ WN XI[\I IZM IT[W ^MZa OWWL _Q\P \WXXQVO[ ^IZaQVO _Q\P \PM [MI[WV 7]Z TI[\ [\WX Q[ NWZ I OMTI\W I\ 8WX *IZ JMNWZM UW^QVO WV \W \PM KWUUMZKQIT bWVM WN :MVLM KTW[M \W \PM MLOM WN +W[MVbI 1\¼[ _WZ\P UISQVO \PM \ZQX \W ^Q[Q\ \PM [XIKM KZMI\ML Ja \_W IOZQK]T\]ZIT MV\Q\QM[ .MZZWKQV\W OZIXM[ IVL +IUXW >MZLM NIZU <PM XTIKM Q[ LQ^QLML QV\W \_W ZWWU[ WVM LMLQKI\ML \W _QVM IVL NWWL [PWXXQVO \PM W\PMZ NWZ T]VKP IXMZQ\QN IVL LQVVMZ <PM UMV] KPIVOM[ NZMY]MV\Ta J]\ \PMZM¼[ WVM ZMTQIJTM KWV[\IV\" ZQKM NZWU \PM ;QJIZQ XTIQV XZMXIZML _Q\P 5WZW KPMM[M IVL I ZML]K\QWV WN 5IOTQWKKW _QVM with the collaboration of Maurizio Uliano

ADDRESSES COSENZA POP BAR c.so Mazzini, 95 tel. 0984 24594 www.gelateriapop.it IL SALUMAIO c.so Mazzini, 132 tel. 0984 23304 www.ilsalumaiocosenza.com PIZZERIA CRISTINI via Calabria, 36 tel. 0984 76047 NABBIRRA ENOTECA c.so Garibaldi, 42 tel. 0984 014 531 www.nabbirra.it GRAN CAFFÈ RENZELLI c.so Umberto I tel. 0984 27005 www.renzelli.com SIAMO FRITTI via R. Misasi, 125 tel. 348 9277 247 RENDE (CS) FERROCINTO VINO IN TAVOLA ^QI > )TÅMZQ tel. 329 7475 443 www.tenuteferrocinto.it www.campoverdeagricola.it

EGGPLANT CROQUETTES

23 FEBRUARY 2016

SILA. PAESAGGI E SAPORI TUTTI DA SCOPRIRE

GREAT VERTICAL TASTING

by Eleonora Guerini photo by Andrea Ruggeri

26 FEBRUARY 2016

This vertical tasting of Badia a Coltibuono was extraordinary and moving. It reached back to labels from the 1940s, an example of a Chianti Classico that despite fashion, life styles and climate change, has maintained its unique and inimitable character.

Riserva di Coltibuono A classic for the decades

GREAT VERTICAL TASTING

n one of Haruki Murakami’s short stories, “The Folklore of Our Times”, he mentions Badia a Coltibuono Riserva ’83 because Coltibuono wines were among his favorites during the years he lived in Rome. The reason is not hard to understand. If you know even a little about Japanese culture, its respect for aesthetics that translates also into respect for taste, then it’s easy to understand how Coltibuono wines, severe and coherent, Chianti-esque to the core, could have resonated with Murakami. Badia a Coltibuono – which can translate into “The Abbey of Good Harvest” – was founded shortly after the year 1000 by the monks of Vallombrosa. They began to plant the first vineyards and lived there until 1800, when Napo-

leonic domination forced them to leave. In the following years, ownership changed various times until in 1846, a banker, Michele Giuntini (an ancestor of the present owners, the Stucchi Prinetti family) bought it and made it productive once again. “Badia has enduring charm,” said Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti, “which is also the result of historic and human events. Even from the architectural point of view, styles and influences are preserved and overlap, from the Romanesque origins of the principal building to the Renaissance garden, by way of small additions and enlargements carried out over time. What has never changed is the absolutely Chiantigiano character of this marvel. Our father Piero, in the 1950s, understood its potential 28 FEBRUARY 2016

29 FEBRUARY 2016

GREAT VERTICAL TASTING

fully, and dedicated himself body and soul to its renaissance and its expansion. He began to bottle the wines and make them known in the world.” “Our vineyards,” explained Roberto Stucchi Prinetti, “are predominantly in Monti, except for a small plot in Castelnuovo Berardenga. The sangiovese comes largely from a mass selection carried out in the winery at the end of the 1980s, starting with 600 mother vines. Since then, we decided to replant the classic varieties of the zone besides sangiovese, that is, colorino, canaiolo and ciliegiolo, grapes which are used to make up about 10% of our Chianti Classico. The Riserva, however, is 100% sangiovese. Our Riserva comes from a selec-

tion of the best grapes, but the vineyards can differ year by year. (There are, though, some plots that give grapes that are always part of the package, thanks to their quality.) During the summer we choose 20% of our vineyards that could be worthy of being part of the Riserva product. Then, during the harvest itself comes a second selection, directly of the grapes. Therefore, from the 20% of the original choice, we get down to 10-15% of sangiovese grapes suitable for the Riserva. Annual production is not above 30,000 bottles. Fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts reactivated by means of a pied de cuve. or starter. The result is a wine that maintains its character and profile so that, besides being 30 FEBRUARY 2016

intimately Chiantigiano, it is also extremely faithful to itself.” The winery, which today counts 60 hectares of vineyard, 50 of which are in production, turns out about 270,000 bottles of organic wine annually. “Badia began the conversion to organic agriculture in the 1990s. In 2000 we attained complete certification. It is an important result, achieved step by step and by means of increased knowledge. After my stay in California,” Roberto said, “I understood that pesticides and herbicides should be banned in favor of agriculture that didn’t starve the soil while feeding humans. It was an important journey, and it brought us into even closer contact with the landscape, human, cultural and agricultural.”

31 FEBRUARY 2016

GREAT VERTICAL TASTING

ROBERTO STUCCHI PRINETTI

CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA or energy from the long finish. But in our 2014 guide we saw clearly, assigning it Tre Bicchieri.

2011 | 91

The wine from a hot, decidedly dry year that ended in the earliest harvest ever done in Coltibuono (at the end of August), it offers a fruity timbre to the nose, with strawberries standing out, along with crisp cherry and hints of incense. The palate is flavorful and continuous, solid, with rigidity in tannin that is not as perfectly mature as its vintage year would suggest. The finish is delicious and its future radiant, so much so that it made us reconsider (in a big way) the lower score that we gave it for the Vini d’Italia 2016 guide.

2008 | 88

A more evolved nose than predicted, with notes of leather and black truffle already evident along with black cherry jam, forest floor and tobacco leaf. The palate, however, maintains a more youthful nose, with tannin still sharp, a sensation of iron that dominates on the close along with great sapidity. It maintains the rating given in the 2013 guide.

2010 | 91

2006 | 86

A delicate and fragrant nose, with an evident floral note and tones of berries, pomegranate and orange zest. The palate manages to be sweet and mouth-filling but also lively and reactive, thanks to assertive acidity and pleasantly nervous tannin that impels the finish, giving rhythm and verve. This too deserves well above the Due Bicchieri attributed to it in last year’s guide.

This nose too shows a more evolved profile than expected, giving voice to tobacco, spices, leather, black pepper and anise, with dark and ripe fruit in the background. The palate is open and sunny, a little alcoholic also, but thanks to the wonderful acidity that characterizes Coltibuono wines, it manages to maintain tension and finesse.

2009 | 91

1998 | 88

A wine that is well above expectations (given the not very happy vintage year of its birth) opens with notes of geranium, green tones and spicy touches of cumin. The palate is very enjoyable, assertive but caressing, profoundly Chiantigiano, ample and warm. The tannin dries slightly, but doesn’t take away flavor

Initially not very expressive, but then come fascinating autumnal sensations, with smoky, fungal notes of wet bark, barley sugar, citrus zest, plum jam. The palate is lively and shows grip, while its tenacious, decisive step does not give way.

32 FEBRUARY 2016

ROBERTO STUCCHI PRINETTI

CHIANTI CLASSICO 1946: AMAZINGLY BRILLIANT COLOR

1994 | ***

1986 | 88

It was impossible to get the panel to agree about this wine. Ratings varied too sharply for an average to make any sense. It was certainly very evolved on the nose, with notes of licorice, saffron and cardamom. On the palate, suffused and continuous development despite some deterioration. One vote was a 94, for an appealing quality defined as mystical.

A nose with some hint of understandable reduction, traces of iron sensations, dried tomatoes and olives in brine, but also cocoa beans and damp soil. The palate is tight and sharp, subtle and yet very flavorful, as graceful as a ballet dancer but bold. Old style.

1985 | 93

1993 | 94

So much for hot vintage years! This was a year that left more cadavers than champions in its wake. But this Riserva belongs to the second group. Dark fruit, mature but lively, balsam and caramel tones, iodine, with notes of medicinal herbs and olives. A compelling palate, precise, deep and enthralling, punctuated by the ins and outs of flavors.

The first revelation wine of the tasting. Vivid and brilliant color. The nose is a torrent of sensations and chiaroscuro effects: dark fruit, fresh violet buds, goudron and wild thyme, candied oranges and leaves. The palate is extraordinary for its vivacity and youthfulness, the tannin silky and vibrant, the acidity energetic, and the finish interminable. Wine poetry. It won Tre Bicchieri from us as opposed to the one bicchiere awarded in the 2001 guide.

1979 | 87

This was the year in which oak came in to replace chestnut wood. It was bottled in 1985. The nose is not perfectly clean and displays tertiary odors with reduction notes of animal, hints of wild herbs and bitter roots. The palate is defined by its verticality, with penetrating acidity that gives pronounced and magnetic flavor. Lean but fragrant, and admirably taut.

1990 | 96

Second revelation wine. A sort of enological miracle in a year that no one would have bet on. Complex and complete from the start, with vivid iodine and mineral hints, cocoa, white truffle, cherry and rosemary. Harmonious palate, elegant, changeable, refined. It is everything one could hope for from a great sangiovese Chianti. Touches the heart. In the 2001 guide, it won Due Bicchieri.

33 FEBRUARY 2016

GREAT VERTICAL TASTING

EMANUELA STUCCHI PRINETTI

1975 | 94

1958 | 88

1968 | 94

1946 | 95

Wine bottled in the 1980s, aged in chestnut casks. The vineyards were mixed and along with the sangiovese were other varieties, certainly including mammolo and foglia tonda as well as whiteberried grapes (which usually weren’t used to make Riserva wines). Extremely fascinating nose, incredibly fresh, with notes of medicinal herbs, sage and thyme, mushrooms, coffee and chocolate beans, rhubarb and iodine. The palate is nuanced, subtle and MTMOIV\ ^MZ\QKIT IVL LMV[MTa ÆI^WZN]T

Nothing less than an enological miracle if you remember that this wine stayed in its cask for almost thirty years (it was bottled in 1986) and was made with grapes from a mixture of vineyards, with vines trained all’albero, fermentation done farm by farm and a later selection of the hypothetical best. On the nose, sensations of root, rhuJIZJ IVL TQKWZQKM P]U][ LZQML ÆW_MZ[ ITKWPWT XZM[MZ^ML KPMZZQM[ helichrysum. In some ways, the palate is still immature, very tartaric, at moments even thin, a perfect mirror of its own time. Hats off !

Intact right from the nose, in which notes of Mediterranean brush clearly emerge, with rosemary and juniper berries, sensations of spices, crumpled leaves. Graceful and compact at the same time, Q\ ÆQM[ PQOP IVL [PW_[ WNN IZIJM[Y]M[ IVL \_QZT[ .TI^WZ IVL IZWUI\QK XW_MZ NWZ I XMVM\ZI\QVO IVL ZPa\PUQK ÅVQ[P

A miracle or perhaps, the enthusiasm of post-war Italy. From halfabandoned vineyards, neglected for years during the war and bottled in the 1950s, we get this brilliant, compact and shining wine, its color only slightly faded. The nose is a blaze of emotions: dried ÆW_MZ[ ZM[QV L_IZN XQVM TMI\PMZ I [TQOP\ [UWSa VW\M UQV\ JTIKS XMXXMZ IVL NWZM[\ ÆWWZ >MZa NZM[P [I^WZa IVL N]TT WV \PM XITI\M without hesitations or downturns, it alternates moments of peak performance with moments of absolute expression. A masterpiece (or else a marvelous and exciting prank of nature).

BADIA A COLTIBUONO | GAIOLE IN CHIANTI (SI) | WWW.COLTIBUONO.COM

Antonio Boco, Franco Pallini and Lorenzo Ruggeri particpated in the tasting and in the writing up of the tasting notes.

34 FEBRUARY 2016

AN INDISPENSABLE TOOL FOR FOODIES BUT EVEN MORE SO FOR INDUSTRY INSIDERS PROMOTING THE BEST OF MADE-IN-ITALY WORLDWIDE

pp. 348 - euro 12,50

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GRAPES IN HISTORY

by Giorgio Melandri

SANGIOVESE AND THE MONKS New studies reveal that Sangiovese thrives in Tuscany and Romagna thanks to the Abbeys of Vallombrosa

ABBAZIA DI COLDIBUONO LONG AGO COLDIBUONO - CABREO

On November 19, 1372, despite the bad weather, the abbot general of Vallombrosa, Simone Bencini, visited the monastery of Santa Reparata, on the Romagnolo side of the TuscanRomagna Apennines. He was accompanied by a monk, two Florentine lay brothers and a notary. The occasion was an inspection, one of many the abbot made of the abbeys of Vallombrosa scattered between Romagna and Tuscany. Today we still have the documents he left for history, listing wine among the agricultural products of the monastery. That six-century-old information is a fascinating and important element 36 FEBRUARY 2016

in the sangiovese story. That the history of this variety may have passed through this abbey is the recent idea of a Romagnolo scholar, Beppe Sangiorgi, who in 2014 published a little book about the variety’s history in his region. The stimulus was a document of 1672, a rental contract that mentioned “three rows of sangiovese placed near the house”. That document (Ravenna state archive, section of Faenza, notary archive of Casola Valsenio, Notary Antonio Ungania, volume 154 page 200-201) contains _PI\ Q[ XZWJIJTa \PM ÅZ[\ UMV\QWV WN a variety that then became part of the Italian language. What is interesting

SANGIOVESE GRAPES

ABBAZIA DI COLTIBUONO TODAY

is that it was the Romagnolo version of the name that became common, XMZPIX[ \PM ÅZ[\ PQV\ WN \PM [PIZML origins of the variety between Romagna and Tuscany. There are various theories about the origin of the name. The most credible is from 1978, and was suggested by the most important scholar of the Romagnolo language, Austrian Friedrich Schürr. He begins with the Romagnola word zuv, which means yoke, but also mountain ridge. Ven de zuv, or wine of the yokes, is in line with the archaic Tuscan words, sangioghetto, also built around the dialect word for yoke. The mystery of \PM []NÅ` Q[ ]VZM[WT^ML J]\ \PM ZMNMZence to yoke might indicate an origin for the grape that is more mountainBADIA DI COLTIBUONO - OLD VINTAGES

ous than hilly. Gioghi are, according to the encyclopedia Treccani, long, rounded mountain heights, (in English, ridges or saddles) but also mountain passes, as we see in many Apennine place names, for example, Giogo di Scarperia. This leads to the hypothesis, still unproven, but plausible for many reasons, that the monks of Vallombrosa played a part in the grape’s diffusion. Sangiovese, which today we know to be a cross between ciliegiolo and another variety, probably the Calabrian negrodolce (Le Scienze n. 554, October 2014) could have originated in a monastery and taken advantage of the network of abbeys in Vallombrosa to spread on both slopes. Tuscany shows us many examples of the cultivation of vines, probably sangiovese, as in Badia a Coltibuono and Badia a Passignano (badia means abbey). In Romagna, the presence of the Benedictine monasteries in Vallombrosa is less well-known, but just as important. In the stretch of land between the upper valley of Santerno 37 FEBRUARY 2016

and Modigliana, there are several monastic complexes: Badia di Moscheta, Badia di Susinana, Badia di Santa Reparata and Badia di S. Maria in Crespino. Add to this the Badia di S. Paolo in Razzuolo, which is on the Tuscan slope, but very near Romagna. This formidable network exchanged knowledge and people, and could explain the contemporary diffusion of grapes on both slopes of the Apennines. It remains to be seen how a late-ripening grape like the sangiovese could have found a home on higher altitude slopes, but this could be explained by the excellent climate that was described around the year 1000. The presence of monks in Badia a Coltibuono, for example, has been recorded since 1070. This is, for now, only a hypothesis, but it is an idea worth developing and verifying. The work is made UWZM LQNÅK]T\ JMKI][M QV \PM IVKQMV\ wine documents, wine is always and WVTa LMÅVML OMVMZQKITTa J]\ \PM NIK\ Q[ VW [XMKQÅK ZM[MIZKP PI[ JMMV LWVM up to now.

BADIA DI PASSIGNANO TODAY BADIA DI PASSIGNANO LONG AGO

SPIRITS

by Giovanni Angelucci

GIN? CAN ITALIANS DO IT BETTER?

Italy = Grappa? Certainly, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what tradition says. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also true that the passion for mixed drinks and international fashions have made gin one of the trendiest spirits in the world, Italy included. Dozens of distilleries produce excellent gin, and many of them are from the Italian boot. Here are the 15 best labels 38 FEBRUARY 2016

39 FEBRUARY 2016

SPIRITS

lthough until recently, numerous distilleries in Italy were known for excellent products such as grappa, acquavite, some vodka, as well as a range of liqueurs, today gin is extraordinarily successful. Whatever the reason, whether it’s just a question of fashion (promoted by some star chefs who are famous for drinking their favorite gin and tonic), or whether it depends on business ventures that have encouraged artisanal distillers to sprout up everywhere, whether it emerges from the beverage culture tied to the global success of wine and food as experience, at this moment in Italy, almost 40 different labels of 100% Italian gin are on the market. Some are well-established, others just born. The latter is the case of a young Roman trio that produces its brand in the home country of gin, England, but follows an Italianissima recipe. “We work in the most prestigious private clubs of London, in contact with the best gin on the market. We followed our hearts, because our affection for this distilled spirit is so strong that we decided to produce our own >11 0QTT[ \PM ÅZ[\ 1\ITQIV 4WVdon Dry,” Danilo Tersigni told us. Alessandro Pancini, near Savona, had already produced a spectacular vodka some years ago. “With the potential offered by our own country and with respect for quality, we can achieve excellent results. I love and deeply respect the products I use. Our spirits are organic, from vodka to the latest arrival: Gino, gin made from organic grain.”

ANDREA AND JACOPO POLI

THE BRAND AMBASSADOR BARTENDER

40 FEBRUARY 2016

SARD WONDER WITH ELIO CARTA IN THE COMPANY LAB

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SPIRITS

Be8

Torino | info@puntodivistatorino.it | www.puntodivistaristorante.it Luigi Iula and Salvatore Romano are partners and friends with an innate passion for cocktails and cooking. That explains the birth of Barz8 in Torino, one of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best bars, and Punto di Vista restaurant where guests can pair dishes with their cocktails. The menu offers more than 160 types of gin, but the young men wanted something very personal and unique, so they created their own gin, Be8. Harmonious and balanced, it is made by the steeping process, that is the distillation of botanical extracts singly, followed by assembly and redistillation twice in a copper still on a organic grain alcohol base. The botanicals most evident on the nose are juniper (Tuscan), cardamom and cyclamen. On the palate, the seeds and roots of angelica confer an earthy note, coriander seeds give a spicy sensation, black pepper revives the palate and licorice root enhances the balsamic notes on the finish â&#x20AC;&#x201C; pine needles and menthol.

RONER

42 FEBRUARY 2016

Tovel’s Gin

Tassullo (TN) | info@tovelsgin.com | www.myvalentini.com Tovel’s Gin is a product of the Adamello Brenta Natural Park, in the heart of the Trentino Dolomites. Master distiller Gianluigi Valentini (the distillery of the same name was founded in 1872) uses nine local botanicals that grow on the banks of the Tovel alpine glacial lake: alpine juniper (the principal ingredient in a London Dry), mountain XQVM KWUUWV QV \PM bWVM MTLMZÆW_MZ NWZ NZM[PVM[[ TMUWV zest from the shores of Lake Garda, manna ash to replace cassia, caraway seeds that suggest 5-star anise and licorice, slightly tannic cornelian cherries, gentian root and angelica root. Vapor infusion enhances the aromas of the gin, making it extremely drinkable.

GIANLUIGI VALENTINI

Gino

Cengio (SV) | info@origine-laboratorio.it | www.origine-laboratorio.it Ten years ago, a visionary pair, Alessandro Pancini and Luca Graffo, created the Origine project, a laboratory of transformation in continual evolution. In the middle of Valle Bormida, in Cengio, near Savona, the doorway to Piedmont, they began making liquors, and by 2009 they _MZM XZWL]KQVO \PM ÅZ[\ WZOIVQK 1\ITQIV ^WLSI \PM M`KMTlent Vodka 0.1. Today, passion and skill have led them to /QVW I LQ[\QTTML [XQZQ\ WN WZOIVQK OZIQV _Q\P Å^M JW\IVQKIT[ R]VQXMZ TQKWZQKM LIUI[KMVI ZW[M TMUWV [IOM ITT KMZ\QÅML organic. Together with water from the Lurisia spring, they express this territory that lies between the Ligurian Riviera and the Maritime Alps. On the nose, juniper emerges above all, accompanied by notes of celery, fresh citrus fruit and spice. Juniper stands out in the mouth as well, along with licorice and roses that give soft notes able to balance the light bitter tones of sage and lemon. Noteworthy aftertaste with each sip.

SPIRITS

Solo Wild Gin

Sassari | puresardinia@tiscali.it | www.puresardinia.eu This Sardinian company must be admired for being able to communicate their identity through the spirits they produce, unique and representative of the soul of their island region. Vodka, vermouth, mirto and Solo Wild Gin, which is made exclusively from the hand-picked berries of wild juniper plants that grow spontaneously along the island’s KWI[\[ 6W W\PMZ JW\IVQKIT Q[ ILLML <PM IZWUI IVL ÆI^WZ are deeply concentrated and rich. Thirty days of infusion in grain alcohol is followed by distillation with the discontinuous method for about 10 hours by means of steam heating and a copper still. The nose is overwhelmed and charmed by the perfume of Sardinian juniper that gradually leaves room for hints of resin and citrus fruit. The palate is mouthÅTTQVO IVL _IZU TWVO IVL M`XZM[[Q^M ) [QX WN ;IZLQVQI

Imea Gineprina d’Olanda

Castelnuovo Don Bosco (At) | info@imeagineprina.it | www.imeagineprina.com This is not only about gin, it’s about culture and discovery. Imea is the Italian interpretation of what gin was at the end of the 19th century. The recipe is dated 1897 and comes from a rare Italian text containing about 2,000 recipes for spirits that was very popular in its day: The Practical Liquor Maker, by Luigi Sala. The idea of Imea, a made-up name, a common practice in the production of spirits and futuristic mixtures, came from Fulvio Piccinino, a grand maestro in the sector. His gin is like the original, made up of very few aromatic elements, with juniper emerging above all, helped along by anise (in the 19th century, a spice that replaced sugar), whose presence is easily recognizable. Other spices are also evident – cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. This is a unique and different gin, one that transports us to another era.

MICHELA BELLOFIORE AND FLAVIO PORCU IN PURE SARDINIA

44 FEBRUARY 2016

Gilbach

Cavalese (TN) | info@alessandrogilmozzi.it | www.gilbachgin.com The name Gil-Bach came out of a collaboration between Alessandro Gilmozzi, chef patron of Ristorante El Molin in Cavalese, and his ex-sous chef Andreas Bachmann, in 2014. The two had clear goals right from the start. They wanted a gin that was truly from the Trentino mountains, in every way. After gathering and experimenting with botanicals from the woods of Val di Fiemme, they worked with the DistilleZQI 8QTbMZ QV .I^MZ IVL QV _MZM ZMILa NWZ \PMQZ Ă&#x2026;Z[\ productions. Juniper, elderberry and blackthorn give a decidedly different character to the spirit. Gilbach initially displays notes of tea and yerba mate, then plum, cherry, hazelnut and light hints of lemon and elderberry. It has the balsamic tones of juniper, resin, anise and rosemary, is very well-balanced, and closes on persistent sensations of roses.

Dol Gin

St. Valentino-Siusi (BZ) | info@zuplun.it | www.zuplun.it Florian Rabanser distills his gin on a plateau in the Dolomites, Alpe di Siusi. His distillery, Zu Plun, is in an alpine chateau dating from the 15th century. He uses a 150-liter copper still and 24 botanicals (individually infused in grain alcohol) from the Alto Adige mountains: juniper, violet ZWW\[ [IOM KIZI_Ia _QTL NMVVMT \PaUM ZW[M PQX Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ and berries, mint, calamus root, elderberry, gentian root, angelica, walnut leaves and lemon zest from Lake Garda. It took two years of developmental work to create Dol Gin, and the local apothecary contributed with an analysis of the plants growing in the zone. Water used for the alcohol reduction is from a glacier spring in nearby Val Senales. On the nose, an explosive bouquet with aromas varying from fresh juniper to mountain herbs. The palate is soft and carries forward the fruity sensation, balanced with lightly bitter notes of gentian root.

ALESSANDRO GILMOZZI ANDREAS BACHMANN

SPIRITS

Greedy Gin

Padova | info@abouten.it - www.abouten.it Here the tradition of a small English distillery is joined to X]ZM 1\ITQIV KZMI\Q^M ÆIQZ /ZMMLa /QV Q[ \PM QLMI WN )JW]\ <MV I aW]VO IVL QVVW^I\Q^M ÅZU [XMKQITQbML QV LM^MTWXQVO and distributing new ideas. At its head are Francesco Martei and Dave Garzon, Chicco&Dave, founders of a school for bar tenders, Flairtender, in Padua. Distilled in England but the result of the Italian project, Greedy Gin is fresh and LaVIUQK M`XZM[[Q^M IVL TQ^MTa ZMÆMK\QVO \PM UQVL[ WN Q\[ producers. Pronounced aromatic notes of citrus fruit and ÆW_MZ[ MUMZOM ITWVO _Q\P JIT[IUQK \WVM[ -QOP\MMV ÆI^WZing ingredients are used, of which 13 are listed: juniper, orange zest, mandarin, bergamot, cinnamon, sage, lavender, cardamom, lemon zest, angelica, coriander, green tea and UW]V\IQV XMXXMZ 7V \PM VW[M IV M`XTW[QWV WN ÆW_MZ[# QV \PM UW]\P TWVO IVL I[[MZ\Q^M ÆI^WZ

Marconi 46

Schiavon (VI) | info@poligrappa.com | www.poligrappa.com The number 46 refers to the degree of alcohol, and Via Marconi 46, in Schiavon, is the address of Poli Distellerie. Marconi 46 gin is the latest product of the traditional distillery belonging to the Poli family, who have been working in the heart of the Veneto region since 1898. Marconi is prepared by Jacopo Poli using Crysopea, an innovative bain marie vacuum still. He uses juniper berries, Moscato grapes, mountain pine, stone pine, mint, cardamom and coriander. The bouquet offers an intense juniper aroma with clear balsamic and citrus sensations, especially a pronounced mandarin orange fragrance. The palate is particularly soft thanks to the Moscato grapes. Flavor is persistent and calls up pleasant notes of cardamom, coriander and licorice root. Poli’s long M`XMZQMVKM Q[ M^QLMV\ QV \PM ÅVM[[M IVL MTMOIVKM WN \PQ[ OQV

THE POLI FAMILY

46 FEBRUARY 2016

VII Hills

Londra | ilaria@viihills.co.uk | viihills.co.uk The young beverage team that conceived of VII Hills has great potential. An under-thirty trio, Danilo Tersigni, Francesco Medici and Filippo Previero are barmen who work QV 4WVLWV <PMa XZWL]KML \PM ÅZ[\ 4WVLWV ,Za 1\ITQIV gin. VII Hills is made with herbs and spices inspired by Rome’s seven hills, using a traditional process of distillation in copper stills. The spirit base is extracted from sugar beets. The 12 botanicals are worked separately to extract their essences: artichoke, blood orange, chervil, celery, bay leaf, coriander, lavender, juniper, lemon balm, sage, fennel seeds and Alexander seeds, The nose is an explosion of juniper, fennel, blood orange and dried fruit, intense but not penetrating. The palate is ample and dense, with lively pepper perceptible on the tongue along with an aftertaste of artichoke, almond, juniper and honey. Production will soon be moved to Piedmont.

BARTENDER GIORGIO PEIS, KNOWN AD SARD WONDER, BRAND AMBASSADOR OF SILVIO CARTA

Giniu e Pigskin

Zeddiani (OR) | info@silviocarta.it | www.silviocarta.it At the beginning of the 1950s, Silvio Carta decided to devote PQU[MTN \W \PM ^QVQÅKI\QWV IVL IOQVO WN \PM VWJTM OZIXM >MZnaccia, producing a traditional Sardinian wine. Today, together with his son Elio, he also produces two interesting gins: Ginius IVL 8QO[SQV <PM ÅZ[\ Q[ N]TT JWLQML UILM WVTa _Q\P ;IZLQVQIV botanicals, among which are myrtle leaves, mastic resin, thyme, wild fennel, lemon zest, sage and juniper berries – large, green ones, rich in essential oils. The nose takes time to open, and in the mouth the spirit is delicate and moderately persistent. The second label contains the same botanicals as Ginius, but in doubled amounts. It is left to mellow in 100-year-old Sardinian chestnut barrels in which Vernaccia once aged. On the nose, the wood is noticeable, along with plums and dried fruit. The palate is balanced by sensations of sweetness. An anecdote they tell: the name Pigskin commemorates an adventure the master distiller experienced. While out searching for botanicals he found himself surrounded by wild boar.

SPIRITS

Roby Marton Gin

Treviso | robymarton@gmail.com | www.robymarton.com The Veneto region is a land of great grappa and enlightened minds. For the last two years, Roberto Marton, headquartered in Treviso, has been producing a great Italian Premium Dry Gin in an antique distillery in Bassano del Grappa. It is a cool compound, a gin made by cold infusion, produced beginning with spring water and the best grain grown in Italy and undergoing two distillation processes. The botanicals chosen are citrus zest, cinnamon, anise seeds, juniper berries, pink peppercorns, horseradish from the Veneto, ginger, berries, cloves and licorice root, a ÆI^WZ :WJa XIZ\QK]TIZTa TW^M[ <PQ[ Q[ I KWUXTM` ]VÅT\MZML OQV _Q\P I XITM aMTTW_ ÆI^WZ _MTT [\Z]K\]ZML IVL LZa _Q\P licorice and ginger notes that help with balance and freshVM[[ 4WVO XMZ[Q[\MV\ ÅVQ[P LMLQKI\ML \W KQ\Z][ VW\M[

Gin Pilz

Faver (TN) | info@pilzer.it | www.pilzer.it Faver is an old village located midway along the Trentino valley of Cembra. Since 1957, the Pilzer distillery has been producing top-quality grappa here. After making their reputation with fruit spirits, monovarietal grappa and even a brandy, brothers Bruno and Ivano Pilzer turned their great skills in the art of distillation \W XZWL]KQVO OQV ZMÆMK\QVO \PMQZ \MZZQ\WZa In the Gin Pilz recipe (pilz is mushroom in German) are the botanicals from the Trentino woods and high-quality Dolomite water. On the nose, the juniper is delicate and fragrant, combining in a UIZ^MTW][ _Ia _Q\P \PM W\PMZ ÅN\MMV LQNferent natural herbs. The gin is dry and assertive, good also consumed straight. *ITIVKM IVL KTMIV ÆI^WZ IZM \PM LQ[\QVKtive traits of the work of master distillers. 48 FEBRUARY 2016

Vallombrosa

Reggello (FI) | info@monaci.org | www.evallombrosa.it Artisanal Vallombrosa gin is produced by the monks of the monastery of the same name. A monovarietal gin, it is UILM [WTMTa _Q\P R]VQXMZ NZWU I [XMKQÅK bWVM IVL Q[ LQ[\QTTML without the addition of other plants or aromas. Its premium quality is guaranteed by the high quality of the juniper that grows wild between Sansepolcro and Pieve Santo Stefano, but also by the unchanged, ancient recipe of the Benedictine monks. According to Don Roberto Lucidi: “The recipe dates back three centuries, and we brought it to the public in the 1950s. I am convinced that its quality depends on the secrets of the past. Today we would not be able to obtain the same Vallombrosa.” It is excellent WV Q\[ W_V JITIVKML QV Q\[ ÆI^WZ[ _Q\P I R]VQXMZ ÆI^WZ WN OZMI\ XMZ[WVITQ\a

LA FAMIGLIA RONER

Z44

Termeno (BZ) | marketing@roner.com | www.roner.com The only one of its kind, with a winning combination of Alpine and Mediterranean features. Dry Gin Z44 comes from the Alto Adige distillery, Roner. Unmistakable, praiseworthy personality comes from the Stone pine cones and juniper that create this gin. The pine cones are collected every summer on the slopes of Corno Bianco, then processed by infusion. The extract is distilled and used in the successive phases of production. Fresh, balsamic notes tending towards menthol emerge – resinous and intense. Framing these are warm shades of juniper, of yarrow that persists and resembles the aroma of chamomile, of violet root \PI\ TMVL[ XZMKQW][ ÆWZIT [MV[I\QWV[ and gentian root that gives structure and body. The water used is alpine, and the whole combines for a decidedly characteristic gin. 49 FEBRUARY 2016

Family traditions since 5 generations

Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it

TRAVEL

SPICY

CALABRIA When we say Calabria, we usually think of beaches and sunshine. But on the plateau of the Sila, a few kilometers from the coast, in winter we can enjoy skiing and an Alpine atmosphere, from Camigliatello to Lorica, Villaggio Palumbo and Fago del Soldato. Sport and culinary excellence meet 51 FEBRUARY 2016

TRAVEL

text and photography by Massimiliano Rella

Two parks, two peaks, two seas Touched by two seas, and held tightly between the mountains of two national parks, the Sila and the Pollino, the province of Cosenza embraces a variety of microclimates, soils and landscapes that make themselves felt even at the kitchen table.

CALABRIA 53 FEBRUARY 2016

TRAVEL

rom the woods of black pine on the Sila plateau, more than 1,200 meters above sea level, to the crystalline waters that bathe the beaches of BelUWV\M +ITIJZW I _MIT\P WN ÆI^WZ[ and unique products, on their own, make a journey worthwhile. And if then we add the beauty of the places, for example the preserved zones of Cosenza’s historic center, the Riserva dei Giganti on the Sila, villages like Morano on the Pollino and Longobardi on the Tyrrhenian coast, we have the ingredients for a long off-season weekend. We started from the Pollino National Park, the largest protected area in Italy. We drove from the ;ITMZVW :MOOQW +ITIJZQI ZWIL Ånally less crowded after the summer is over. We stopped in Saracena, a town of ancient origins at an altitude of 700 meters. It’s said that it descends from Antica

Sestio, founded by the Oenotrians around eleven centuries B.C.. The historic background is fascinating, and we later deepened our understanding in Cosenza, in the Museo Civico dei Brettii e degli Enotri. Afterwards, at the Osteria Porta del Vaglio, we found young chef Gennaro Pace, who invited us to a more sensual experience. In the ÅZ[\ WN PQ[ \PZMM LQVQVO ZWWU[ I complete wall is lined with Calabrian wines – this is the country of Moscato di Saracena. The menu grows out of research into local ingredients, then reworked with an experimental approach. ¹)UWVO W]Z LQ[PM[ Q[ ÅTTM\ WN JTIKS calabrese pork seasoned with pine needles from the Pollino. They introduce balsamic aromas,” Pace \WTL ][ ¹\PI\ _M ][M QV Å[P ZMKQXM[ \WW 5IKSMZMT _Q\P K]\\TMÅ[P QVS on whipped potatoes from the Sila we enhance with sprigs of pine.”

HOT-BRANDING OF CACIOCAVALLO SILANO DOP, PAESE DAIRY, CAMIGLIATELLO SILANO (COSENZA)

DEMETRIO STANCATI AND FLAVIANO BILOTTI, ALTA QUOTA, THE FIRST SPUMANTE OF THE SILA

Another wonderful celebration of regional products brought us to a plateau on the Sila, La Tavernetta in Camigliatello, where chef Pietro Lecce, alongside his son Emanuele (the other son, Biagio, is working in Rende in a new place connected with the Ferrocinto Winery) offered us an ‘extract’ of Calabria. Filetto LQ >MZW 6MZW · TQ\MZITTa »ÅTTM\ WN true black’ combines the meat and pancetta of black Calabrian pork, licorice root, Sila potatoes and clementine gelatin (Calabria IGP). “It is a synthesis of the varieties of our land,” Lecce told us. “The Silano plateau offers us mushrooms, cheeses, wild herbs and many other good products, the fruit of an uncontaminated environment hidden among the peaks of the region.” Following Pietro Lecce’s advice, we visited the colorful Sunday market of Moccone, a bright triumph of ÆI^WZ[ IVL \PM LIQZa NIZU WN \PM Paese family. They make excellent

PRODUCERS OF

54 FEBRUARY 2016

CHEESE CACIOCAVALLO At 1,200 meters above sea level, on the great Sila plateau, the Paese dairy farm transforms milk from their own animals into flavorful cheeses: Caciocavallo Silano DOP, burrino (a small cylinder of caciocavallo with butter hidden inside), delicate little wheels of goat cheese, fresh ricotta and ricotta smoked with black alder wood, local of course. The family-owned farm raises 50 cows – frisone, jersey and pezzate rosse breeds – and 30 Saanen and nero di Calabria goats, which give 700 liters of milk every day. From spring to autumn, the animals graze on the 35 hectares of meadow and brush, dining on spontaneous grasses and herbs. CASEIFICIO PAESE | SPEZZANO PICCOLO (CS) | LOC. CAMIGLIATELLO SILANO | VIA DELL’AGRICOLTURA 73 | TEL. 0984 579 930 | WWW.CASEIFICIOPAESE.IT

traditional cheeses with the milk of their own farm animals, not far from the Cecita Lake. From Sila we returned to the valley towards Cosenza and into the countryside of Acri and Bisignano where we met a simpatico family of wine producers, Demetrio Stancati and his wife Flavia, owners of the Serracavallo winery. They turn out whites and reds, a grappa from magliocco grapes and an extravirgin olive oil from carolea, roggianella and cassanese cultivars. The surprise is the new metodo classico spumante of Sila, among \PM ÅZ[\ J]JJTQM[ WN \PM XTI\MI] Another is Dovì made by Ferrocinto, also a chardonnay (but a monovarietal) grown in the mountains in the zone of Castrovillari on the slopes of the Pollino. The Serravallo wine is called Alta Quota (High Altitude) and combineschardonnay and riesling, grapes that

come from an extreme vineyard, 1,200 meters above sea level. For now, they only make a few thousand bottles. But we were struck also by an aperitif we had before we reached Carpaccio, a restaurant and wine bar in nearby Acri. Wine enthusiast Gianluigi Micheli greeted us with a parade of specialties and local recipes with dialect names. Among the dishes were schiaffettune, homemade ravioli with anchovies and crisp bread crumbs. The main dishes included roast lamb with imbacchiuse potatoes, a sort of hash brown, and local podolico veal scorzetta cutlets with grilled porcini mushrooms. This kilometer-zero trattoria is also a wine bar with over 400 Italian labels in its cellars, including regional glories such as Gravello by Librandi, from as far back as 1999 and Ripe del Falco Ippolito from 1987.

PREPARATION OF GAMMUNE, THE CULATELLO-STYLE PROSCIUTTO FROM BELMONTE CALABRO, NOW A SLOW FOOD PRESIDIO. PRODUCER MARIO ARLÌA

TRAVEL

After a stroll around old Cosenza and an espresso at Gran Renzelli, the historic cafè on Corso Telesio, we took the road for Altilia, about ÅN\a SQTWUM\MZ[ I_Ia \W_IZL[ \PM Tyrrhenian Sea. In the nearby countryside, butcher and livestock breeder Adriano Ferrari raises his black Calabrian pigs in a natural way. They provide the meat for exquisite cured products that he makes in collaboration with the Moretti family of Marano Principato. The animals are raised and pastured outdoors, freely grazing on chestnuts and acorns. Among his classic Calabrian products are spicy ‘nduja, soppressata, capocollo, pancetta and guanciale (cured cheek), as well as aged shoulder prosciutto and boned ham. A few kilometers further brought us to Longobardi, an uninhabited village, like many on the Calabrian mountains. Nevertheless, it is the destination for a pleasant pilgrimage that attracts many food enthusiasts from inside and outside the region. Degusteria Magnatum has made a virtue of necessity. It is part bar, part newsstand, part specialized shop and osteria, part tasting center. The idea is Francesco Saliceti’s, the city culture councilor, a man fascinated by good and thoughtful food and wine products. Try the delicious layered potato frittata , the appetizing greens, gorgonzola and sausage crostini (bruschetta-like), the wine-marinated culatello (prosciutto-like cured pork), or taleggio cheese and dehydrated XMIKPM[ WV \WI[\ML ÅO JZMIL KZW[tini. Everything is carefully selected – meat, cheese, cured meats, olive oil, wine and food pairings. Many products are for sale, such as over 30 extra-virgin olive oils from all the Italian regions. At the end of our trip, Belmonte Calabro awaited, an authentic town of taste experiences. In the summer we _W]TL ÅVL OQOIV\QK [MMLTM[[ \WUItoes (weighing as much as two kilos

DOTTATI FIGS OF COSENZA, MADE BY COLAVOLPE IN BELMONTE CALABRO BELMONTE CALABRO

CONFECTIONERY THE POETRY OF DRIED FIGS

For the Colavolpe family of *MTUWV\M +ITIJZW ÅO[ IZM not just a fruit like any other. For three generations, they have purchased dried ones and transformed them into memorable confections. They start with a local variety with white ÆM[P VW [MML[ IVL I \PQV [SQV ;PIXML QV\W KZW[[M[ \PM ÅO[ IZM ÅTTML _Q\P ITUWVL[ IVL WZIVOM zest, then bathed in a syrup of herbs, myrtle berries, licorice, anise and other ingredients or else, covered with bittersweet KPWKWTI\M 4IZOMZ ÅO[ IZM ÅTTML with candied orange peel and almonds. The art-nouveau designs on the boxes are part of the fun. COLAVOLPE | BELMONTE CALABRO (CS) | P.LE N. COLAVOLPE | TEL. 0982 47017 | WWW.COLAVOLPE.COM

56 FEBRUARY 2016

each) rosy and sweet. In the winter, _M ÅVL I ;TW_ .WWL XZM[QLQW XZWLuct, Gammune, and excellent sweets \PI\ ÅTT \PM JM[\ XI[\Za [PWX[ WN 1\ITa made by the century-old confectioner, Colavolpe. Gammune is a sort of culatello Calabrese, a deboned blackpig prosciutto, salted and seasoned with a bell pepper sauce, air-dried and aged for at least 16 months. The sweets from Colavolpe celebrate loKIT ÅO[ I +W[MVbI ^IZQM\a \PI\ Q[ stuffed with almonds, orange zest and garnished with white and dark chocolate. “You don’t know Calabria fully without a stop in Belmonte Calabro. From sweet to salty, the meals here are complete!” joked Mario Arlìa, head of the Slow Food presidio for Gammune in Belmonte. He has a point. The latest project concerns bread. Five 19th-century mills are being restored to bring

FARMERS MARKET SUNDAY IN CAMIGLIATELLO Every Sunday morning in Camigliatello, on the road to Moccone, in an area equipped with shacks and wooden stands, a peasants’ UIZSM\ KWUM[ \W TQNM W^MZÆW_QVO with Sila and Cosenza specialties, ranging from dried and oilpreserved mushrooms to vegetables, cured pork and wild boar products, cheeses, chestnuts and large, purple-striped mountain JMIV[ <PM IZWUI[ IVL ÆI^WZ[ of local tradition rule and the stands are overseen by the farmers themselves.

back the grain, milling and breadmaking connection of Belmonte. The so-called ‘ugly’ bread may not be pretty, but will certainly be the best-tasting in the region.

FARMERS’ MARKET ON THE ROAD FOR MOCCONE, EVERY SUNDAY AT CAMIGLIATELLO SILANO (COSENZA)

POTATOES AND MORE MOUNTAIN FLAVORS The Sila zone, its climate marked by sharp temperature excursions and its woods surZW]VLQVO \PM K]T\Q^I\ML ÅMTL[ is perfectly suited to growing potatoes. The mountain spring water used to irrigate the soil doesn’t pass through livestock farms or industrial settlements but runs through pristine territory. Sila potatoes, an IGP, are grown in about 15 varieties (marabel, agria, nicola, ditta) each with Q\[ W_V bM[\a ÆI^WZ )TT IZM ideal for frying thanks to their high percentage of dry matter. Among the 30 producers is the cooperative Orti dei Monti, which also sells directly to the consumer. TENUTA DI TORRE GARGA | SAN GIOVANNI IN FIORE (CS) | LOC. GARGA | KM 83,400 S.S. 107 | TEL. 0984 992 879 | WWW.TENUTADITORREGARGA.IT

TRAVEL

WHAT TO VISIT PARKS, TOWNS AND MONUMENTAL TREES PARCO NAZIONALE DELLA SILA. Eighty marked walking trails wind through the 800 kilometers of Italy’s largest mountain plateau. The visitors’ center in Cupone a Camigliatello includes an historic sawmill with antique machinery and a nature museum. (INFO: WWW.PARCOSILA.IT) I GIGANTI DELLA SILA. In this national park are centuriesold pine trees, some 40 meters high, with trunks two meters in diameter. (INFO TEL 0984 76760) MUSEO CIVICO DEI BRETTII E DEGLI ENOTRI. Located in the monumental complex of San Agostino in Cosenza. An antique cloister and a central well joined by underground cisterns to the Crati River. On show IZM ÅVL[ NZWU \PM [\WVM IOM to the ancient Roman era.

(COSENZA, SALITA S. AGOSTINO, TEL. 0984 23303, WWW.MUSEODEIBRETTII EDEGLIENOTRI.IT). CATTEDRALE. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, in Romanesque and Gothic style is a treasure chest of art and history. Along the left nave are two Baroque chapels, one dedicated to the Madonna del Pilerio, a Byzantine icon of the Madonna nursing her child. (PIAZZA DUOMO, COSENZA, TEL. 0984 77864, WWW.CATTEDRALEDICOSENZA.IT)

on Piazza XI Settembre, jPiazza dei Bruzi and Piazza Valdesi. (WWW.COSENZATURISMO.IT E WWW.COMUNE.COSENZA.IT)

WHERE TO EAT

ANTICA LOCANDA DEL POVERO ENZO | VIA MONTESANTO 42 | COSENZA | TEL 0984.28861 | WWW.

ANTICALOCANDADALPOVEROENZO.

| Three courses 35€ | Closed Sat lunch and Sun even | The modern cuisine of young Ivan Carelli revisits regional dishes. COM

COSENZA VECCHIA. Many noble buildings line the narrow streets, such as the 15th-century Palazzo Ciaccio, the Palazzo di Giustizia, the Ducal Palazzo Gaspare Sersale in Largo delle Vergini and others. The Norman castle, Svevo, is in the upper part of town. It has been under renovation for many years. Guided visits, on foot and by bus, museum entrance for adults is 8€, reduced price 6€, at 10, 17 and 21.30. Information

VIEW OF CECITA LAKE, PARCO NAZIONALE DELLA SILA

58 FEBRUARY 2016

HOTELROYALSAS.IT

VISITS TO WINERIES AND ARTISANAL SALUMERIE

THE CATHEDRAL OF COSENZA

Tour 2016 Participating wineries Agricole Gussalli Beretta

Falesco

Primosic

Allegrini

Fattoria del Cerro

San Felice

Baglio di Pianetto

Felline

San Patrignano

Barone Pizzini

Firriato

San Salvatore

Bellavista

Gaja

Bolla

Gruppo La Vis

Santa Margherita Gruppo Vinicolo

Bortolomiol

Jermann

Schiopetto

Cà Maiol

La Raia

Settesoli

Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano

Le Monde

Tenuta di Arceno

Leone De Castris

Tenuta San Guido

Cantina Tollo

Livon

Tenuta Sant’Antonio

Cantine Due Palme

Lunae Bosoni

Tenute di Eméra

Casalfarneto

Marchesi di Barolo

Tenute di Genagricola

Castello di Cigognola

Masi

Tenute Rubino

Castorani

Medici Ermete & Figli

Terre Cortesi Moncaro

Cavicchioli

Nals Margreid

Torrevento

Colle Massari

Nicosia

Velenosi

Colline San Biagio

Omina Romana

Vigne Surrau

Còlpetrone

Ottella

Villa Medoro

Cottanera

Petra

Villa Sandi

Cusumano

Piandaccoli

Zonin

De Stefani

Poggio al Tesoro

Zorzettig

Di Majo Norante

INFO: www.gamberorosso.it/international

9 segreteria.estero@gamberorosso.it

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

by Francesco Seccagno

Pietro Lecce

MY SILA

Pietro Lecce approaches one of Italy’s most evocative terroirs with an open, curious mind, traditions drawn from his origins, but also a desire to know the world. In the same way, he brings with him the rebellious talent of his son Emanuele…

61 FEBRUARY 2016

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

A MODERN FAMILY

AND A SENSE OF ROOTS “The meaning of our cucina doesn’t deny the past, but takes lessons from the history of local dishes. We update them, reshape them to make them pleasurable for today’s taste buds. It’s a process of continual elaboration of ideas, of continuous ‘Right, it’s okay, but…’. This trait, dissatisÅML [I\Q[NIK\QWV Q[ XIZ\ WN W]Z M^MZaLIa TQNM º Pietro Lecce, together with his sons, Emanuele and Biagio, his wife Denise and little Carolina, is the soul of <I^MZVM\\I \PM PMZWQK ZM[\I]ZIV\ \PI\ [XMKQITQbM[ QV \PM products of the woods and mountains on the slopes of \PM ;QTI QV \PM XZW^QVKM WN +W[MVbI QV +ITIJZQI 1V NIK\ together with a re-reading of tradition, the other great UWZIT QUXMZI\Q^M »M[[MV\QIT¼ [Ia[ 8QM\ZW Q[ Y]ITQ\a \PM Y]ITQ\a WN \PM QVOZMLQMV\[ WN XZWL]K\[ ][ML ¹?M IZM TWWSQVO NWZ [QUXTQKQ\a *]\ [QUXTQKQ\a VW\ XW^MZ\a Q[ I OWIT that always seems close, but that actually is always just out WN ZMIKP 1N Q\¼[ \Z]M \PI\ _M PI^M \W [\Z]OOTM \W ZMUW^M \PM []XMZÆ]W][ JMKI][M _PI\M^MZ Q[ \WW U]KP [XWQT[ \PQVO[ Q\¼[ IT[W \Z]M \PI\ Q\ Q[ LQNÅK]T\ \W UIVIOM \W [MM _PI\¼[ M`KM[[Q^M º <PMZMNWZM \PMa I\\IQV \PM »ZMÅVML [QUXTQKQ\a¼ \PI\ KPIZIK\MZQbM[ \PM ZMKQXM[ \PI\ 8QM\ZW KWV\QV]M[ \W \]ZV W]\° ¹-^MV QN 1 WN\MV NWZOM\ \PM ZMKQXM[ M^MV QN 1 OM\ \PM IXXTI][M WN Ua NZQMVL[ · []JRMK\[ IVL ^QK\QU[ _PW \PMa [Ia \PMa IZM PIXXa · NWZ Ua M`XMZQUMV\[ º 8QM\ZW \MTT[ ][ ¹1¼U VM^MZ Y]Q\M KWV\MV\ º <PM PQ[\WZa WN <I^MZVM\\I KWQVKQLM[ _Q\P \PM JQWOZIXPa of a family. In 1948, Pietro’s mother, Carolina, opened a locanda, an inn, one of those places where you eat whatM^MZ \PMa PI^M <PQVO[ _MV\ ITWVO TQSM \PI\ NWZ IJW]\ years. Then Mamma Carolina decided on a time-out, or rather a part-time: the place opened only during the three summer months. And Pietro? His mind was on W\PMZ \PQVO[ · \PM KWV[MZÎ\WZa [WKKMZ OQZT[ 1\ _I[V¼\ until 1981 that Pietro found his answer: he decided to ZMWXMV \PM <I^MZVM\\I *]\ PM _IV\ML Q\ ITT \W JM PQ[ _Ia He’s a communication animal, and has the innate capacQ\a \W MV\MZ QV\W LQITWO]M \W QV[XQZM KWV^MZ[I\QWV ;W I\ <I^MZVM\\I \WLIa I[ _MTT I[ aM[\MZLIa KWZLQITQ\a KWV[Q[\[ of careful attention and light, well-timed joking, not of W^MZJMIZQVO [MZ^QKM Pietro’s son, Emanuele, followed him as soon as he could. Another rebel, he left hotel school to work full-time in \PM <I^MZVM\\I SQ\KPMV I UWLMZV _WZS[PWX [\WKSML _Q\P IÎV\ OIZLM MY]QXUMV\ 8ISWRM\ :WVMZ ÎK]]U KWWSMZ JTI[\ KPQTTMZ <PQ[ QV[XQZML \PM aW]VO -UIV]MTM \W ZMshape traditional recipes with the lightness and fragrance that modern technology permits.

LA TAVERNETTA | CAMIGLIATELLO SILANO (CS) | 0984 57906 | WWW.LATAVERNETTA.INFO

TEL.

62 FEBRUARY 2016

WARM CHANTERELLE SALAD WITH EDIBLE FLOWERS INGREDIENTS FOR 4

300 G CHANTERELLES WILD GREENS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

CALABRESE PITTED OLIVES, GREEN AND BLACK DRIED TOMATOES EDIBLE FLOWERS RED BERRIES SALT, PEPPER, THYME

63 FEBRUARY 2016

PREPARATION Brush dirt from freshly gathered chanterelles, wash and then dry carefully on a dish \W_MT ;\MIU NWZ UQV]\M[ ;MI[WV WTQ^M[ _Q\P I TQ\\TM KPQTQ XMXXMZ XMXMZWVKQVW IVL dried tomatoes cut into pieces. Gather wild OZMMV[ JWZIOM [WZZMT [I^WZa KITIUQV\ clean them, break into smaller pieces by PIVL IVL LZM[[ _Q\P _IZU WTQ^M WQT IZWUI\QbML _Q\P \PaUM IVL [MI[WVML _Q\P [IT\ IVL XMXXMZ /I\PMZ MLQJTM ÆW_MZ[ \W OIZVQ[P \PM XTI\M 1V I OTI[[ [MZ^QVO JW_T XTIKM \PM KPIV\MZMTTM[ _QTL OZMMV[ WTQ^M[ IVL LZQML \WUI\WM[ ,MKWZI\M _Q\P ÆW_MZ[ and some red berries. Finish with few large grains of coarse salt.

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

CAESAR’S

MUSHROOM SOUP INGREDIENTS FOR 4

50 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL MONOCULTIVAR BIANCOLILLA 50 G BEATEN MOUNTAIN LARD 1 BUNCH PARSLEY, CHOPPED 400 G FRESH CAESAR’S MUSHROOMS

2 EGG YOLKS 60 G PECORINO CHEESE, IL MORO DI CALABRIA 200 G VEGETABLE BROTH (CARROTS, CELERY, ONION AND MUSHROOM STEMS) SALT

PREPARATION In a small copper pan, heat WTQ^M WQT TIZL KPWXXML XIZ[ley. Clean mushrooms and cut into slices one centimeter thick. Sauté them for 5 minutes with the lard and oil. Add two ladlefuls of hot broth. Place two egg yolks and the Moro pecorino in a deep mixing bowl and beat with a whisk. Then pour the soup gradually into the eggs, mixing well. ;MZ^M QV QVLQ^QL]IT KWKW\\M[ _Q\P I LZQbbTM WN WTQ^M WQT

NERO DI CALABRIA LACQUERED PORK BREAST WITH FIG PRESERVES AND CRISP VEGETABLES

PREPARATION

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 BREAST OF

NERO DI CALABRIA PORK

FIG PRESERVES FRESH GREENS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL RASPBERRY VINEGAR THYME FLEUR DE SEL OR SEA SALT FLAKES BLACK PEPPER

65 FEBRUARY 2016

<PM XWZS JZMI[\ NZWU 6MZW LQ +ITIJZQI XQO[ U][\ JM NI\\a +WWS Q\ QV I ^IK]]U I\ I TW_ \MUXMZI\]ZM + . NWZ PW]Z[ ;MI[WV Q\ _Q\P WTQ^M WQT [UWSML [IT\ IVL _QTL \PaUM +]\ XWZS QV\W KP]VS[ WN IJW]\ OZIU[ MIKP 1V IV iron frying pan, toast each of the pieces of pork QV PMI\ML ÅO XZM[MZ^M[ 2]TQMVVM \PM OZMMV[ IVL place immediately in ice water along with a drop WN ZI[XJMZZa ^QVMOIZ 1V IV W^IT [MZ^QVO LQ[P IZZIVOM \PM OZMMV TMI^M[ alternating with cubes of pork breast. Complete _Q\P I NM_ LZWX[ WN ÅO XZM[MZ^M[

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

YUZU* GELÈE

WITH GOAT MILK GELATO AND BERRIES INGREDIENTS FOR 4 500 ML YUZU JUICE 80 G AGAR AGAR 225 G SUGAR GOAT MILK GELATO BERRIES MINI-MERINGUES

PREPARATION Heat half the juice to + . *TMVL QV IOIZ IOIZ )LL []OIZ IVL ZMUIQVQVO TQY]QL Boil until it forms a jelly. Spoon the jelly into dessert dishes and TMI^M \W KWWT QV ZMNZQOMZI\WZ ,MKWZI\M \PM a]b] RMTTa _Q\P I JITT of goat milk gelato, berries and a small meringue. *The yuzu is a citrus fruit and plant originating in East Asia. It is believed to be a hybrid of sour mandarin and Ichang papeda.

66 FEBRUARY 2016

WARM CHANTERELLE SALAD WITH EDIBLE FLOWERS

CAESAR’S MUSHROOM SOUP

ROSANETI BRUT ROSATO M. CL. 2011 | LIBRANDI | CIRÒ MARINA (KR) | WWW.LIBRANDI.IT

RITICELLA 2010 | IGRECO | CARIATI (CS) | WWW.IGRECO.IT

/WWL KWUXTM`Q\a WV \PM VW[M 0QV\[ WN JMZZQM[ ÆWZIT VW\M[ IVL PMZJIKMW][ V]IVKM[ KPIZIK\MZQbM Q\[ WTNIK\WZa XZWÅTM .ZIOZIVKM[ IZM [][\IQVML Ja I OWWL IKQLQK ^MQV [W \PQ[ UM\WLW KTI[[QKW TIJMT OWM[ _MTT with mushrooms in a pleasant and fresh pairing.

*TMVL WN OZMKW JQIVKW IVL UIT^I[QI OZIXM[ NZM[P IVL MI[a \W LZQVS Wonderful balance between acidity and fruit. Deep and persistent WV \PM ÅVQ[P ) [WN\ _PQ\M _Q\P IV M`KMTTMV\ XZQKM Y]ITQ\a ZIXXWZ\ 1\ [PW_[ Q\[ JM[\ Y]ITQ\QM[ XIQZML _Q\P \PQ[ LMTQKI\M IVL XIZ\QK]TIZTa aromatic dish.

NERO DI CALABRIA

YUZU GELÈE WITH GOAT MILK GELATO AND BERRIES

ZU LORENZU 2012 | VINICOLA ZITO | CIRÒ MARINA (KR) WWW.CANTINEZITO.IT

GRECO DI BIANCO 2012 | CANTINE LUCÀ | BIANCO (RC) | WWW.CANTINELUCA.IT

B] 4WZMVb] :W[[W Q[ I UWVW^IZQM\IT OIOTQWXXW _Q\P IZWUI[ WN [XQKM[ IVL JMZZQM[ \PI\ IKKWUXIVa \PM ÅO XZM[MZ^M[ _MTT :M[\TM[[ \IVVQV PMTX[ \W \MUXMZ \PM []KK]TMVKM WN \PM 6MZW LQ +ITIJZQI XWZS JZMI[\

<PM ^IZQM\a \PI\ XZWL]KM[ \PQ[ _WVLMZN]T /ZMKW LQ *QIVKW PI[ I TWVO history. The one made by the Lucà family, besides notes of almonds IVL KIVLQML NZ]Q\ ^QJZI\M[ WV VW\M[ WN UQV\ IVL KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ \PI\ MVPIVKM \PM NZM[P ÆI^WZ WN \PM a]b] IVL IKKWUXIVa Q\ \W_IZL[ I ^MZa TWVO ÅVQ[P 8QM\ZW 4MKKM PW_M^MZ ZMKWUUMVL[ LZQVSQVO WVTa I OWWL glass of spring water, direct from the Sila mountains! 67

FEBRUARY 2016

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

by Massimo Lanza

berebene

Calabria

68 FEBRUARY 2016

CALABRIAN

The bad weather that characterized most of the Italian regions during the 2014 grape harvest was gentle in Calabria, the southernmost region of the peninsula. It had a normal spring and a summer that was not too hot, while the storms at the end of summer and the beginning of fall only brushed by the northern part of the region. It was, therefore, a good vintage year, favoring wines that were balanced and not excessive in any way. Despite its suitable climate, Calabria is the last region in Italy in terms of quantities of wine produced. Although much has been done, much remains to do to bring the region up to the quality standards achieved by other southern Italian regions. CirĂ˛ is the unchallenged capital of Calabrese winemaking, in terms of numbers of wineries and quantities produced, other zones are coming up quickly, above all the area around Cosenza, where wineries are multiplying and getting good results with their products, in terms of quality as well. There is no historic model to follow nor a denomination to refer to in the Cosenza zone, so winemakers chose to work on and research the two indigenous varieties, magliocco and mantonico. The region is doing well on the environmental sustainability front. More and more wineries are converting to organic or biodynamic agriculture, and some are beginning to use renewable energy [W]ZKM[ _PQTM Ă&#x2026;OP\QVO \W ZMduce CO2 emissions.

WINE

Strong personalities, low prices

69 FEBRUARY 2016

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

CIRĂ&#x2019; ROSSO CL. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 â&#x20AC;&#x2122;A Vita

CIRĂ&#x2019; ROSSO CLASSICO â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 Cataldo Calabretta

10.00 euros Laura and Francesco De Franco chose their winery name with care. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;A Vita in Calabrese dialect means â&#x20AC;&#x2122;grapevineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. The name underlines the necessarily close tie between the vine and the wine it produces. CirĂ˛ Rosso Classico â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 is a good example of this production philosophy. It is typical of its varietal, fresh, and shows good balance between fruit and tannins, adhering closely to its type and its territory.

10.00 euros Cataldo Calabretta, about ten years ago, after studying enology in Milano and having various work experiences around Italy, went back to his hometown, CirĂ˛, to take up winemaking again in his family business. Cataldo today can draw from 14 hectares of vineyard that were organic NZWU \PMQZ Ă&#x2026;Z[\ LIa 0Q[ +QZ Âź Q[ ZQKP IVL KWUXTM` PI[ I NZM[P IVL QV\ZQO]QVO Ă&#x2020;I^WZ _MTT balanced between sweet fruit, sapidity and pleasantly rustic tannins.

CROTONE (KR) | WWW.AVITAVINI.IT

CIRĂ&#x2019; MARINA (KR) | WWW.CATALDOCALABRETTA.IT

CIRĂ&#x2019; ROSSO CL. SUP. VOLVITO RIS. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 Caparra & Siciliani

CIRĂ&#x2019; ROSATO â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 Capoano

CIRĂ&#x2019; MARINA (KR) | WWW.CAPOANO.IT

CIRĂ&#x2019; MARINA (KR) | WWW.CAPARRAESICILIANI.COM

7.50 euros Massimiliano Capoanoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s property extends for about 20 hectares, and is largely devoted to vineyard. For about a dozen years, it has JMMV IV MV\QZMTa KMZ\QĂ&#x2026;ML WZOIVQK M[\I\M 8ZWduction is at a good level, entirely dedicated to CirĂ˛ of various types. We liked the CirĂ˛ Rosato â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 for its red fruit tones on the nose, cherries and raspberries in particular, but also citrus fruit. The palate is coherent, fresh, easy to drink and persistent in the mouth.

10.00 euros The winery headed by Giansalvatore Caparra draws from 180 hectares of vineyard in the area around CirĂ˛. The land is divided among 12 different farms, all belonging to members of the two founding families of this historic winery, established more than 50 years ago. Austere, with tight tannic concentration but also good acidic freshness, Volvito â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 is destined to withstand the test of time. Spicy and fruity on the nose, in the mouth it is fresh and persis\MV\ _Q\P I Ă&#x2026;VM long and bal[IUQK Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

70 FEBRUARY 2016

MATILDE â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 Chimento

CIRĂ&#x2019; BIANCO â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 Cote di Franze

10.00 euros Architect Vincenzo Chimento owns this winery in Bisignano near Cosenza, in a hilly zone near the Crati river, almost 600 meters above sea level. The estate, founded in 1950, lies on 15 hectares, of which half are vineyard. We admired Matilde â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14, a white from equal percentages of greco and sauvignon grapes. It displays fragrances of white fruit and fresh Mediterranean herbs on the nose, while the palate is fresh and ner^W][ _Q\P I Ă&#x2026;VM \Z]Ta XTMI[IV\ KQ\Z][a Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

9.90 euros Francesco and Vincenzo Scilanga run this beautiful CirĂ˛ winery with unusual fervor. Their ten organic hectares are planted with gaglioppo and greco bianco, ad alberello trained, the ancient method of the zone. Density is about 9,000 vines per hectare. CirĂ˛ Bianco â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 is totally satisfying: fragrances of apricot, plum and aromatic herbs, pleasantly savory and noteworthy for a pleasant return of fruit on the palate.

CIRĂ&#x2019; MARINA (KR) | WWW.COTEDIFRANZE.IT

BISIGNANO (CS) | WWW.AZIENDACHIMENTO.IT

CIRĂ&#x2019; ROSSO CL. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 Cantina Enotria

PECORELLO â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 Ippolito 1845

CIRĂ&#x2019; MARINA (KR) | WWW.CANTINAENOTRIA.COM

CIRĂ&#x2019; MARINA (KR) | WWW.IPPOLITO1845.IT 9.40 euros Vincenzo and Gianluca Ippolito own what is probably the oldest winery in all of Calabria â&#x20AC;&#x201C; founded 170 years ago. The path taken by the two young men, aimed at spotlighting indigenous Calabrese varieties, is beginning to XIa WNN <PMQZ 8MKWZMTTW Âź PI[ I _WVLMZN]T personality, aromas that suggest wisteria and white fruit, but it also displays mineral nuances. In the mouth it is savory, elegant, well-structured and persistent.

7.60 euros The Enotria winery of CirĂ˛ Marina is a dynamic cooperative formed by a group of well-established producers in the 1970s. Together they grow over 150 hectares of vineyard, producing about a million bottles per year. Their +QZ :W[[W Âź PI[ I TW^MTa clean and well-articulated olNIK\WZa XZWĂ&#x2026;TM \PI\ ZIVOM[ NZWU ripe cherry to blackberry, but also offers balsamic and licorice notes. The palate is also clean, taut and tannic with a long, apXMITQVO Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

71 FEBRUARY 2016

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

CIRĂ&#x2019; BIANCO â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 Librandi

CRITONE â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 Librandi

7.20 euros Librandiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CirĂ˛ Bianco â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 is really delicious. 1\ N]TTa KWVĂ&#x2026;ZU[ \PM \PM[Q[ \PI\ I OZMI\ _QVMZa can be judged also by the care it takes in the production of its so-called base wines. Elegant on the nose, it presents notes of yellow melon, XMIZ Ă&#x2020;WZIT \WVM[ and a light background of aromatic herbs. The palate is savory and dynamic, enlivened by a fresh, playful citrusy note that increases the pleasure of each sip.

9.40 euros Critone â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 is good, has an excellent price/ quality rapport and is easily found in wine [PWX[ OQ^MV \PI\ JW\\TM[ IZM ZMTMI[ML each year. Largely chardonnay with a little sauvignon, it has an iodine-scented, inviting nose of tropical fruit and Mediterranean herbs. The palate is fresh, savory, but not banal â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it has substance, length and a good return of fruit on its long Ă&#x2026;VQ[P

CIRĂ&#x2019; ROSSO CL. â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13 Malena

CIRĂ&#x2019; BIANCO â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 Fattoria San Francesco

6.40 euros Malena is one of the historic names in the CirĂ˛ denomination. The Cataldo grandfather, at the beginning of the 20th century, founded the winery now headed by his grandsons, Antonio IVL +I\ITLW +QZ :W[[W +TI[[QKW Âź Q[ I [\alistically coherent Gaglioppo, faithful to its territoryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s proĂ&#x2026;TM *IT[IUQK [WUM mineral tones, and then ripe red fruit WV \PM VW[M Ă&#x2026;VL correspondence in a palate made especially pleasant by the bracing nature of its fruit, wellsupported by stillnervous but wellextracted tannins.

7.90 euros After a series of business problems, Fattoria San Francesco was bought by the Iuzzolini family. Within a couple of years, they were able to relaunch the brand and above all, restore production. We found the wines of this historic winery in better form than they have been for years, and the Ă&#x2026;ZU PI[ Ă&#x2026;VITTa ZM\]ZVML to its high qualitative standards. This good CirĂ˛ Bianco â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 is mineral on the nose, presenting also white fruit and herbs. The palate is savory, deep and intense.

CIRĂ&#x2019; MARINA (KR) | WWW.LIBRANDI.IT

CIRĂ&#x2019; MARINA (KR) | WWW.MALENA.IT

CIRĂ&#x2019; (KR) | WWW.FATTORIASANFRANCESCO.IT

72 FEBRUARY 2016

An essential book for allAnwho love Italian wine essential book More than 60 experts spent months for all who love Italian wine doing blind tastings More than 60 experts months in every regionspent of Italy doing blind tastings in every region of Italy

2400 producers 22000 wines 2400 producers 421 Tre Bicchieri 22000 wines 80421 TreTre Bicchieri verdi Bicchieri 80 Tre Bicchieri verdi

www.gamberorosso.it

OLI D’ITALIA 2016

by Francesco Seccagno

74 FEBRUARY 2016

ITALIAN

EXTRA-VIRGIN 2015 -AN ELEGANT YEAR The quality of the new Italian extravirgin olive oils is very good: few intense fruit sensations, but many medium and light fruity bottles with aromas and flavors that will please consumers. Analyses by Sol&Agrifood tasters confirm the first evaluations that emerged from our tastings for the Gambero Rosso guide, Oli d’Italia 2016

he 2015-2016 olive oil harvest is over. Now we can outline the fundamental aspects of a good, but complex year in the producing countries of the Northern Hemisphere, mostly concentrated in the Mediterranean area. Gambero Rosso’s tasters are working on their evaluations and ratings of Italian oils as they prepare the sixth edition of the annual guide, Oli d’Italia. It will be presented in Verona at the Sol&Agrifood fair, parallel to Vinitaly (April 10-13, 2016). The objective is to provide buyers and international operators concrete information for their own work of selection. The objective is to provide international buyers and operators concrete information for their selections. Sol&Agrifood also includes other Mediterranean countries, and so Verona releases a series of individual reports prepared by the most important international panelists that review their own countries.

Italy: production

<PM ÅZ[\ KW]V\Za IVITabML Q[ 1\ITa _PQKP KIUM QV I\ I ^MZa PQOP I^erage level in terms of quality. Marino Giorgetti, head of the panel for the Sol d’Oro competition and collaborator with Oli d’Italia Gambero Rosso guide, is one of the world’s leading experts in 75 FEBRUARY 2016

OLI D’ITALIA 2016

evaluating the sensory qualities of ex\ZI ^QZOQV WTQ^M WQT ¹1\ _I[V¼\ LQNÅK]T\ \W predict a consistent increase in production compared to the tragic harvest of last year,” the head panelist commented. ¹M^MV QN \PM 7ZOIVQbI\QWV WN 8ZWL]KMZ[ QVLQKI\M \PI\ Q\ _QTT JM LQNÅK]T\ NWZ 1\ITa to reach the 300,000 tons mark this year. 8MZ[WVITTa ^QM_QVO \PM QV\MV[M IK\Q^Q\a in olive oil mills around Italy, I think that production will be much higher than has been estimated.” The 2015 summer, with excessive heat and no rain in July, Giorgetti said, did no good, the fruit did not develop well. “Generally, we already see a reduction in yield. That obviously inÆ]MVKM[ XZWL]K\QWV Y]IV\Q\QM[ )LL \W \PI\ I [UITTMZ WTQ^M XZM[MVKM QV [WUM bWVM[ \PI\ PIL XZWJTMU[ WN ÆW_MZQVO IVL IOIQV L]Zing the fruit set stage.” The heat also increased the risk of attacks by the disastrous WTQ^M NZ]Q\ Æa ¹*]\ _M PI^MV¼\ [MMV []KP beautiful, healthy olives for years,” added Giorgetti. “There were no particular problems for free acids nor were there consequences for the organoleptic analysis.” For \PM )JZ]bbM[M XIVMT TMILMZ \PM WZOIVWTMXtic quality of extra-virgin olive oil this year is, on the average, very good. “From these ÅZ[\ \I[\QVO[ WN \PM aMIZ Q\ [MMU[ \PI\ Y]ITity is up, overall, with fewer oils showing defects, even if we may have to do without, at least in part, particular, memorable sensations. I don’t know if we’ll have many intense oils this year, but I doubt it. Overall, in recent years, this category has been [PZQVSQVO *]\ _M¼TT PI^M I OZMI\ UIVa TQOP\ and above all medium oils that will have ÅOP\ IUWVO \PMU[MT^M[ I[ ][]IT \W KWUM out on top in the various competitions.”

<PM ÅZ[\ \I[\QVO[

After last year’s disastrous crop, many olive farms that had to give up producing oil in 2014 because of the adverse weather conditions, showed that they knew how to reach the peak, producing some true KPIUXQWV[ <PM ÅZ[\ \I[\QVO[ QV NIK\ [PW_ a promising 2015-2016, much better than last year’s. Some shadows, persist, though. “We have to work, there has to be constant training among producers and mill-owners to guarantee their ability to handle vari76 FEBRUARY 2016

ability and the new situations that every aMIZ JZQVO[ º [IQL ;\MNIVW 8WTIKKPQ K]ZItor of the Oli d’Italia guide. Continuous study and research are the basis of the quality production that the companies considered have shown to be possible so far. They must be careful not to slow LW_V JMKI][M ¹NWZ [WUM WTQ^M ÅZU[ \WW U]KP [MTN KWVÅLMVKM KIV JZQVO XZWJTMU[ not so much with the olives themselves, but with technical matters, the cleaning of the mill and the machinery, as well as the pace of milling after the harvest.” For example, ¹=UJZQI IVL \PM bWVM WN \PM +WTTQVM 8WVtine, the hills just south of Rome, have shown up wonderfully,” but the rest of 4IbQW ¹PI[ VW\ OQ^MV XIZ\QK]TIZTa JZQTTQIV\ results, although they did make some good extra-virgin oil.” To conclude, “The tastings will surely show a high level of quality in the production of olive oil.” <PI\ XWQV\ WN ^QM_ Q[ KWVÅZUML Ja 1VLZI Galbo, an expert taster of extra-virgin olive oil and teacher in the Gambero Rosso schools. He spoke about the good oils coming from Garda, western Sicily, and northMZV 8]OTQI .WOOQI *IZQ )VLQZI +WZI\W ¹?M¼ZM [\QTT _IQ\QVO NWZ LMÅVQ\Q^M ZM[]T\[ from Tuscany,” Galbo explained, “but from the regional selections we can expect a great array of Tre Foglie (three leaves, the top ranking for oils) for the 2016 edition of the Oli d’Italia guide.” He pointed out that the olive oil scene is composed of extraordinary individual producers that Italy is not always able to present well, especially abroad. A propos, this year for the first time, the English-language version of the oil guide Italian Extravirgin Olive Oils, will appear. “It will be a useful tool for all international buyers and food lovers who want to find their way among the many companies involved in this unchallenged area of Italian excellence.”

A better year, prices unchanged

Let’s conclude with an overview of the economic and commercial aspects of oil, and a look at the prices of various labels. Even though production has grown since last year, prices have not

CIMA DI MELFI

GENTILE DI LARINO

ASCOLANA

LECCINO

ITRANA PERANZANA

CORATINA

ROSCIOLA

PROCANICA

NOCIARA

NOCELLARA ETNEA FRANTOIO

gone up. We spoke to Simona Cognoli, owner of Oleonauta, an extra-virgin oil shop in Ostia Lido, near Rome. In a few years it has become a reference point for olive oil enthusiasts. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is a positive year, made possible by the weather during the summer and by more careful work in the olive mills.â&#x20AC;? She pronounced it better than last year, but still not as good as two years ago. This comeback on the part of the oil firms has not changed prices, though. They have stayed the same â&#x20AC;&#x153;to provide the financial returns necessary after the tragic experiences of last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s olive harvest.â&#x20AC;?

THE EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN TASTE OF OLIVE OIL The Italian Government is engaged in a promotional and information campaign to support authentic Italian products in the United States. Activities encompass retail promotions, a massive communication campaign, trade promotion events, education activities and incoming missions to Italy for buyers, journalists and opinion leaders. <W XZWUW\M I]\PMV\QK 1\ITQIV WTQ^M WQT \PM 6M_ AWZS WNĂ&#x2026;KM [MTMK\[ SMa XZW\IOWVQ[\[ WN \PM industry and organizes visits to production areas in Italy <PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ Y]IZ\MZ WN _QTT NMI\]ZM" =6)8:74 KWVNMZMVKM" J]aMZ[ IVL RW]ZVITQ[\[ ) [MUQVIZ _QTT JM PMTL WV .MJZ]IZa \P \W QVNWZU 1\ITQIV KWUXIVQM[ WV PW_ \W M`XWZ\ 1\ITQIV WTQ^M WQT \W \PM United States. -ZKWTM 7TQ^IZQW" RW]ZVITQ[\[ Âˇ IVV]IT I_IZL KMZMUWVa PQOPTQOP\QVO \PM JM[\ M`\ZI ^QZOQV WTQ^M WQT[ XZWL]KML QV 1\ITa IVL I XZM[MV\I\QWV WN \PM =; UIZSM\ ;WT )OZQNWWL )XZQT " J]aMZ[ _QTT XIZ\QKQXI\M QV \PM M`PQJQ\QWV WN authentic Italian products. Other activities are scheduled throughout the year in cooperation _Q\P VI\QWVIT ZMOQWVIT IVL TWKIT XIZ\VMZ[ .WZ UWZM QVNWZUI\QWV XTMI[M KPMKS ___ Q\ITQIVUILM KWU IVL NWTTW_ ][ WV .IKMJWWS Twitter, YouTube and Instagram at @ItalianCrafted.

77 FEBRUARY 2016

LETTER FROM PARIS

IS COOPERATION IN CHAMPAGNE’S FUTURE? and able to compete without inferiority complexes with the best Champagne production, and, moreover, at prices that are consumer friendly. Its members are largely enthusiastic about participating in these adventures into high quality that also reflect well on the image of cooperation itself. Nevertheless, for some unrepentant snobs, a wine from a cooperative will never do. Many wine shop owners feel that way. There are very few that don’t turn up their noses when the talk is about wine from a cooperative, and fewer still that sell them. This attitude from another age, this inability to move with the times, is incomprehensible and, above all, unpardonable. Cooperation has become one of Champagne’s strong points. The era in which we live requires the existence of structures that guarantee that the grapegrower is not left alone to manage challenges, problems, global change, competition, and all those realities that can seriously stress those not prepared to face them. The proof ? The number of growers who bottle Champagne under their own brand name is constantly shrinking. photo by Colin Hampden-White

In France, as in Italy, the question is the same: how can we produce good quality wines in large quantities for a public that is more and more exigent? Together with grapegrowers and large wineries, cooperatives have known how to position themselves to become one of the principal players in this market. In France, the opportunities to drink excellent wines made by cooperatives are multiplying. There are many examples: fine Chablis from La Chablisienne, white Gascogne from Plaimont, the powerful reds of Marrenon, Rhone wines from the Cave de Tain-L’Hermitage and many others. And the Champagne cooperatives, more than in other regions, for some years have been turning out true miracles. Devaux, but also Mailly Grand Cru, Collet, Jacquart, and so on… numerous cooperatives deserve to be known, and are equipping themselves to do even better. The last one to climb on the top-quality train, and the most important of all, is the cooperative that produces Champagne under the Nicolas Feuillatte brand. The advantage of a cooperative over a large maison de négoce is the incredible range of crus it has available. This variety allows it to put a multitude of cuvées on the market, many of which are excellent

Michel Bettane & Thierry Desseauve 78

JANUARY 2016

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international@gamberorosso.it Gambero Rosso USA 79 JANUARY 2016