Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food n.127 by Gambero Rosso

year 22 - number 127 - march 2019 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

CIRO SALVO A brEATH of napoli in the hearth of london 2019 ANTEPRIMA FIERE In 20 cities (and 25 wine shops) we tasted 72 labels of the new vintages (and the great classics) of 36 wineries showcasing their products at international fairs from Prowein to Vinitaly

MATERA MIRACLE Matera is the stratified portrait of a country that out of the most extreme rural civilization has managed to become one of the Capitals of European Culture for 2019.

NEPAL An intriguing emotional destination: the splendor of the Himalayas, the charm of a World Heritage city, the call of adventure in the mountains, the mystical aura...

SOMMARIO 4

year 22 - number 127 - march 2019 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

6 8 12 14 22 28 36

MATERA MIRACLE Matera is the stratified portrait of a country that out of the most extreme rural civilization has managed to become one of the Capitals of European Culture for 2019.

50 62 72

Migrations, hybrids, colonization, identityâ&#x20AC;Ś News Wine of the Month Ciro Salvo, Neapolitan talent in London Top Italian Restaurants in London Gambero Rosso & Vinexpo Vinitaly is here. 6 international journalists explain how the world sees 2019 Anteprima Fiere Matera miracle. Sassi and ancient peasant dishes are now trendy On Himalaya in search of extreme mountain cuisine Gennaro Esposito. Evolution in the shade of mt Vesuvius

NEPAL An intriguing emotional destination: the splendor of the Himalayas, the charm of a World Heritage city, the call of adventure in the mountains, the mystical aura...

Migrations, hybrids, colonization, identity… Since the studies on vine DNA began, new and fascinating scenarios opened up for scholars on the subject, but also for enthusiasts. It was known that the vine was a wild plant with a strong vocation for migration, and lovers of botany and ampelography can easily explain its extraordinary propensity to hybridization and mutagenesis. Today with the most sophisticated analysis systems we're able to decipher long sequences of vine genome and we're beginning to understand, at least for some grape varieties, the biological path that led to their appearance. But this is a more complex story that can't be exclusive to biology alone. To reconstruct these fascinating and complex paths, research becomes interdisciplinary: linguistic analysis on names and synonyms of vitis vinifera varieties are fundamental, as well as archaeological evidence to validate everything. As the study progresses, interesting discoveries are being made... For years now we know that the Californian zinfandel is identical to Apulian primitivo, and that both are the base of some vines common in Croatia, Dalmatia and Montenegro, that is crljenak kastelanki, plavac mali, dobričic, tribidag... Every couple of years, with the progress of study, the reciprocal bonds are discussed again. Today we know that tribidag (perhaps) is the original name of this grape and that crljenac and primitivo, and therefore also zinfandel, are later names that have characterized the adaptation of this grape to different territories. The encounter with the dobričić, then, would have produced the plavač mali, which is therefore the primitivo's offspring and not one of the progenitors, as it appeared years ago. How this grape — call it tribidag, primitivo or what have you — has arrived in California is yet to be clarified, but at the base of the hypotheses there are migratory flows that have brought men and grapes from the shores of the Adriatic to the lands of the American Dream and to the West Coast. The different terroirs and winemaking systems — in short, the human hand — make the difference between one bottle and another. A few days ago, reading the beautiful book by Attilio Scienza and Serena Imazio (La Stirpe del Vino), I was fascinated by the enigma of sangiovese, the glory of national oenology, whose origin is still far from clear, but which is certainly among the ancestors of a series of classic grapes from the southern wine scene, including — hear hear — nerello mascalese, susumaniello, frappato and gaglioppo… There are all the ingredients, in these studies, to create a television series full of episodes, characters and plot twists similar and beyond the Gomorrah, Breaking Bad and Suburra fictional series, to name a few. At the base of all this, the perennial flow and interracial mixing of humans, genetic material, cultures and farming techniques... It starts from the beginning of human history. About two hundred years after having fiercely subdued and sedated the revolts of the Iberian peoples, on the imperial throne of Rome sat Trajan, of Spanish descent and birth, and who brought the Roman Empire to its maximum expansion. It's something to think about it, no? — Marco Sabellico

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MARCH 2019

NEWS

FAST FOOD DOES MORE HARM THAN IT DID 30 YEARS AGO. JUNK FOOD RESEARCH IN AMERICA: MORE SALT AND MORE CALORIES In the era of healthiness proclaimed as a banner of self-discipline and social commitment, even the big fast food chains have chosen the most useful way to reassure a society plagued by alimentary diseases, and the constant search for solutions to reinvigorate well-being needs and awareness at the table. Marketing strategies that often hit the target, awareness campaigns and initiatives to rethink the classic fast food menu in the name of a variety that softens the impact however preponderant - of junk food. The survey conducted by researchers at Boston University and Tufts, recently published by the New York Times, is therefore interesting. It takes stock of the last thirty years of American fast food, in the period between 1986 and 2016. The analysis parameters are portion size, percentage of sodium contained in food, caloric intake, detecting the real evolution of the food impact for which fast food is responsible for the diet of an average American, who is easily a frequent visitor to at least one of the many diffused chains in the States. Over the period of time analyzed, the researchers considered almost 1800 references (including entrees, side dishes and desserts) on the menu of 10 famous chains in America - Mc Donald's, Burger King, KFC, among the most rooted groups, and then Arby's, Carl's Jr, Dairy Queen, Hardee's, Jack in the Box, Long John Silver's, Wendy's - noting on the one hand the attempt to diversify the menu to respond to renewed eating habits (the offer rose on average by 226% in 30 years), on the other hand a more dangerous tendency to load on the quantity of salt and fat contained in the house specials, from French fries, chocolate cookies, fried onion rings and cheese sticks. On the same trend, even the size of the single-portion product has grown, confirming the assumption that has been outlined, at the end of the data

comparison: nowadays fast food is less healthy than it was thirty years ago. Hand in hand with the increase in obesity rates in the United States, which today afflicts 40% of adult Americans, compared to 13% in the early 1960s. And the data speaks for itself across the board, from the most consumed quick snacks down to dessert, with a noticeable increase in caloric intake at all times during the meal. The snacks studied, for example, bring on average 90 calories more per serving, in the jump between 1986 and 2016; while a portion of dessert has grown by as much as 71 grams, for mere commercial strategy: to convince the customer to buy even the dessert guarantees good margins of revenue. And the same goes for the price policies of the take 2 pay (more or less) 1, widely used by large fast food chains to attract new audiences. It's of little use, claim the detractors of fast food, that regulations re-

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garding public health of many States have introduced the obligation to report foods with high percentage of salt, sugars and fats on their menu. The change, in order to be effective, should involve the system at the origin, instead of putting stamps of alarm in retrospect. And instead, a portion of French fries, albeit with unchanged size, in 2016 "lent" 42 calories more than in 1986. The cause is a higher sodium percentage than twice the recommended daily amount. Data that should not be underestimated, considering that - in a country led by a President who is proud of his passion for junk food, as confirmed by the "banquet" recently offered to football players visiting the White House - today 11% of the energy needs of the American adult population is covered by fast food meals (and the National Center for Health Statistics reveals that over 36% of them eat so every day). But at what price for health?

NEWS

RAMEN POWER HOUSE IN NEW YORK. LUCA CATALFAMO'S VEG RAMEN, FROM MILAN TO MANHATTAN TEMPORARY It's a timed adventure, until the end of May, for the first time at Casa Ramen in New York. But the challenge is certainly no less ambitious, considering how much the culture of ramen is rooted in the habits of New Yorkers, "who know very well what they should expect from a ramen bar, have well-defined tastes and preferences, with tonkotsu (made from broth of pig) on top of requests”. Luca Catalfamo is well aware of this, and besides, he too has eaten the first ramen of his life in New York: "This is why opening my place here today is a great emotion, a circle that closes". So much so that Casa Ramen Power - the temporary restaurant that opened a few days ago, hosted at a tiny space in Kenmare street, Manhattan - could only be the first test bed for a stable project in the city. Now the focus is on collaboration with Sun Noodle, an American company specializing in the production of noodles, founded in Hawaii in the early 1980s and currently the market leader in America. For a long time Sun Noodle has had a small workshop in the heart of New York, the Ramen Lab of Nolita, where it invites to cook ramen chefs and personalities related to Japanese food culture periodically: “With them I had already collaborated in the past, a month and a half that evidently left its mark, and then had a good

public success. So we stayed in touch, and as soon as there was the possibility of doing it again we studied a new proposal, for an experience that will be more lasting, and will continue for the next three months, until May 26th ”. But what to propose to the city where every day opens a new ramen bar? "Something that I think is missing, a menu entirely focused on vegetables, rethinking the classic proposals with the raw materials provided by local farms, and building, starting from seasonal availability, complex and new tastes." A first time also for Luca, a completely vegan ramen bar, which could prove to be the right path to pursue when investing in an independent project in the near future. Meanwhile, in the last few days the ramen lab has taken the form of Casa Ramen Power: “The space is very small, it is consumed practically standing, on the stools at the counter, no more than a dozen people at a time, for a very fast experience , and maneuvering spaces in the kitchen equally reduced. But we brought our stickers to personalize the environment, and we will have a painted cloth that evokes the decorated wall of Casa Ramen in Milan. We try to feel at home here too”. "The important thing is to serve tasteful ramen, even if vegetarian. I am convinced the formula has great potential ".

A LARGE URBAN FARM AT THE PARIS EXPO of chef GuyMartin). At the vegetable garden it will be possible for anyone to buy fresh produce, cultivated by farmers under the supervision of the Parisian company La Perchoir, while the care of the gardens will be entrusted to Agripolis, a company specialized in urban agriculture, and Cultures en ville, a reality of Cachan committed to creating of small green ecosystems in the city, on the terrace and in the apartments. But the company will also be a place of connection and a meeting point for all fans of the genre, where themed events and events will be organized. Viparis, a branch of the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of the Paris-Ile-deFrance region which organizes exhibitions and congresses, takes care of the organization. A news greeted with enthusiasm by the Parisian public, which has not delayed, however, to bring to light some perplexities about the pollution of the area due to the intense neighboring urban traffic. Reassuring citizens is Pascal Hardy, director of Agripolis, who at L'Usine Nouvelle declared, with a lot of analysis in hand, that the plants will be cultivated with natural methods but able to ensure protection from various pollutants. An ambitious operation costing 5 million euros, which promises to come to an end within the next year. And what we hope will be an example for many other European cities and beyond.

Port de Versailles, Paris. This is where, in the spring of 2020, what will be the largest agricultural company in the world will be born. A space of 14,000 square meters inside the Parc Des Expositions, the center dedicated to trade fairs in France. Just outside the city, in the south west of the French capital, in the heart of the 15th arrondissement, in the gigantic surface of almost 300,000 square meters. It will be born on the terrace, where 20 farmers will take care of 1,000 or more seasonal vegetables and fruits, from over 30 different species. All organically grown, with the utmost attention to the environment and the surrounding ecosystem, and then ending up on the tables of the Expo restaurants, which will be able to enjoy a true zero kilometer supply (among the gastronomic novelties, there are also rumors that the arrival

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MARCH 2019

NEWS

STARBUCKS RESERVE ROASTERY IN TOKYO: IN JAPAN, THE FIFTH FLAG OF THE COFFEE GIANT

It should have been the largest Starbucks Reserve in the world, the one in Chicago, covering almost 4,000 square meters, and instead on February 28, 2019, the US giant has once again changed the cards with the opening of the Roastery in Tokyo, plus precisely in Nakameguro, one of the most sparkling, elegant and avantgarde neighborhoods of the metropolis. Superfluous - and almost impossible, by now - to summarize the many adventures of Starbucks in the world: from that first venue outside of Seattle, the steps taken were many, one more exciting than the other. Now it's the turn of Japan, of the fifth Reserve Roastery (a special format, more focused on the quality of the beans, the cleanliness of the extraction and the impeccable service) in the world, after Seattle, Shanghai, Milan and New York. Again, it is the now popular association with Princi that has the best for the gastronomic sector, with focaccia, pizzas, long leavening breads, puff pastries and brioche in full Italian style, with products arriving directly from Italy. The bakery is located on the first floor, together with the coffee shop,

which offers around 5 different qualities of arabica coffee from around the world, roasted and packaged on site, to be enjoyed in espresso or as filter. Roasting dominates the elegant and gigantic space furnished with taste and attention to detail: 1200 square meters all dedicated to roasting beans, housed on the fourth floor. A meticulous operation carried out in machines of about 17 meters high: a real record in the world of coffee. The third floor is reserved for the cocktail bar, where the coffee-based drinks certainly are not lacking, while the second is dedicated to tea lovers, with the Teavana tea room, tea room of the homonymous brand of loose tea in leaves that

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has long been used alongside Starbucks coffees in various points of sale. In addition to the internal seats, there are also tables outside, on the terrace overlooking the Meguro river, where you can relax while sipping a good cup. In short, a Roastery similar in content and aesthetics to those already existing, but larger, which once again aims to bring brio and novelty to a panorama historically linked to coffee (the tradition of Japanese kissaten is one of the most fascinating to world). And, considering the success that the format has had and is receiving in other countries, this time it will be difficult to disappoint the most demanding customers.

NEWS

FRANCE. UPWARD ESTIMATES FOR PRODUCTION, BUT EXPORTS SLOW AND PDO PRICES FALL for PDOs). However, the abundance of the harvest will allow the French to have 64 million total hectoliters available. The Ministry reports the decline, from August to December 2018, in sales by volume of bulk wine, compared to IGP wines which increased by 9%. A difficult start to the campaign for exports which, excluding spirits, lose 11% in volume and 1% in value, between August and November 2018. To weigh, the high cost of wines at the beginning of the campaign and expectations of buyers on high world production. Beyond the border, exports stopped above all in third countries (-17%) after four years of growth. China, in particular, totals -42% in volume and -13% in value compared to the same period of the previous year (especially the red Bordeaux). Dop also in Japan and Canada, while the US recorded -3% in volume but + 4% in value, driven by the rosés of Provenza. Sales also decreased towards the EU, above all the DOP still wines in Germany (-16%) and UK (-11%). Slight drop in Champagne volumes (-2%). The 2018/19 campaign shows falling producer prices between August and December (excluding Champagne) (-2%), although remaining at high levels (+ 10%) on the average of the previous five-year period. Down with Burgundy, Bordeaux and Côtes-du-Rhône, good Provence (+ 31%) and Languedoc (+ 16%).

A start of the year between highs and lows for France which, with an abundant production in its pocket, has for now seen exports slowing down especially in the East, with average prices that have fallen although they are still sustained. In detail, on the production front, the French Ministry of Agriculture has revised upwards the estimates of 2018, bringing them to 49.47 million hectoliters, with a + 34% on 2017 and + 13% on the average of the five-year period 2013/17. A net decrease in stocks, which lost 16% at the beginning of the campaign, reaching just 26.4 million hectoliters, or the lowest in the last ten years (-43% for wines without Ig, -29% for the category of IGP and -11%

USA. A SUFFERING 2018 FOR ITALIAN STILL WINES: VOLUMES DOWN, VALUES RISE Although data is not yet available for 2018, the estimates preIwfi confirms the complicated moment for the category of Italian still wines in the US market. Certifying a situation of general stalemate is data collected by the Ministry of Commerce (after the shutdown, the block of administrative activities, ended at the end of February, which prevented the publication of the data some weeks ago). Italian exports to the first world market increased in value by 3.4%, mainly due to a general increase in prices, compared to a contraction of 2.4% in exported quantities. According to President Iwfi, Lucio Caputo, on this non-positive market trend "does not seem to have influenced in any way the promotional campaign in favor of Italian wines conducted in the US". In absolute terms, the US imported still Italian wines for 2.48 million hectoliters, with a value of 1.39 billion dollars, compared to 2.54 million hectoliters for a value of 1.35 billion dollars in 2017 Italy currently holds 28.7% of the import market in quantity and 32% of the val-

ue market. As reported by the Iwfi, the United States imported still wines for 8.64 million hectoliters, for a cost of 4.35 billion dollars, with a decrease on 2017 of 8.3% in quantity and an increase of 3 , 3% in value. France heels the Belpaese, thanks to a growth of 7% in quantity (1.28 million hectoliters) and 15.8% in value (1.23 billion dollars). Among the other competitors, it is worth noting the debacle for Australia (-14.3% in quantity and -13.3% in value) and for Chile (-22.2% in quantity and -16.9% in value ). New Zealand wine continues to grow, marking + 3.7% in quantities with values that increase by 3.2%. The category's expansionary trend continued in 2018, the prerogative of four major suppliers: Italy, France, Australia and Chile. The segment went from 394 thousand hectoliters and 236.8 million dollars in 2017 to 496 thousand hectoliters and 325.5 million dollars in 2018, recording annual increases of 25.7% in quantity and 37.4% in value. The Italian rosé wines, in particular, show an 8.5% increase in quantity and a flattering 24.2% in value. But

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the growth of rosé wines, for these four countries, was followed by the decline in white and red wines. Finally, a note on sparkling wines. We are growing but at much lower rates than in the past. Made in Italy bubbles, driven by Prosecco, total 770 thousand hectoliters, for 444 million dollars. Namely: + 10.9% in quantity and + 16.3% in value. In 2016, the increases were 30.8% in quantity of 36.4 percentage points in value.

NEWS

WINE OF THE MONTH COLLI TORTONESI TIMORASOS IL MONTINO 2016 - LA COLOMBERA Tortona (AL) | www.lacolomberavini.it ex-cellar price: 15 euros + taxes La Colombera has seen consistent growth over the years. Today the winery is sound, dynamic and wellrepresented on national and international markets. They offer a number of wines with an overall quality that’s quite notable, starting with their base-line offering. Their selection doesn’t stop at their renamed Tomasso, one of the area’s regular strongpoints. It encompasses a number of wines made with native grape varieties: Barbera, Croatina and Nibiò (a Dolcetto clone) for their reds and Cortese (along with the already mentioned Timorasso) for their whites. Our Wine of the Months is the Timorasso Montino 2016. The 2016 version is notable for its enormous capacity to integrate the variety’s typical mineral notes with fruitier sensations of white peach and bergamot. It’s both subtle and complex on the nose, with aromas of ripe citrus accompanied by notes of medicinal herbs. These give way to a palate of great structure and freshness, with a well-balanced, exceptionally long and glorious finish. Drink now or in 10 years. Well done, Elisa.

BREXIT. IN THE EVENT OF A NO DEAL, INCREASES IN WINE WILL BE SUSPENDED. MEANWHILE, THE BRITISH HAVE RUSHED TO STOCK UP AND ITALIAN PRODUCTS REGISTER A NEW EXPORT RECORD

Brexit yes, Brexit no, Brexit maybe. Less than a few days before the date initially set to leave the European Union (March 29), the methods of separation have never appeared so uncertain. And while the race against time continues in search of an acceptable solution, an important news arrives that also involves the wine companies. As already hoped for and asked in a loud voice by the Wsta - Wine & Spirits Trade Association, the British Government has decided - in the event of an unlikely exit without agreements for the temporary suspension of the tariffs that would start, in addition to other products, also on the wine and spirits imports. According to Wtsa estimates, the increase would have cost the alcohol sector alone 70 million pounds. "We welcome this decision" is the hot comment by Miles Beale, chief executive of Wsta "But it is urgent to intervene on the free flow of wine products, so that businesses can continue to trade without problems". Customs have to consider all the extra documentation and tests needed to get

European products into a "third market", once the EU Emcs (Excise Movement Control System) is no longer applicable in the UK. duties, however, would not affect other Made in Italy products, such as Grana Padano and Parmigiano Reggiano, for which an increase of € 24.9 would start as early as March 29. For his part, Paolo De Castro, the first vicepresident of the agriculture committee of the European Parliament, reassures : "There will be no Brexit without agreement. For trade in the agri-food sector, this means maintaining the status quo". optimistic MEP of the Democratic Party, "after talking with British colleagues, it would seem possible agreement in the Commons to put the decision to a new referendum on whether or not the UK to the EU". In this climate of uncertainty, the only certain things are the data on Italian exports to the United Kingdom in the 12 months of 2018. Precisely on the eve of Brexit, Made in Italy recorded its historical record in the UK: 3.4 billions of euros, with a 2% increase in exports of

food and beverages, according to Coldiretti's analysis of Istat data. At the top of the list, among the most exported products, is the wine that invoices almost 827 million euros on the English market, driven by the Prosecco PDO boom, with 348 million euros. Followed by fresh and processed fruit and vegetables (such as tomato derivatives) with 234 million, pasta, cheeses and olive oil. And it is not excluded that the increase is due precisely to the alarm launched by the distribution chains on food supply difficulties in the event of failure to reach an agreement, which led the British to stock. "Great Britain produces just half of the food it consumes" observes Coldiretti "and is therefore forced to resort to imports from the European Union (30%), from the Americas (8%), from Africa (4%), from the Asia (4%), from other countries of the world”. For the CIA “The situation of great uncertainty for businesses and citizens can take on an even more alarming dimension in a phase of difficulty on the front of international trade and economic growth. In addition, according to the temporary tariff regime published in recent days by the British government, and which would enter into force in the case of a Brexit without agreement by March 29, import duties would be imposed on beef, pork, lamb, poultry, and of some dairy products, which would also penalize Italy”.

CIRO SALVO, NEAPOLITAN TALENT IN LONDON A fresh breath of Neapolitan air in the heart of London. 50 KalĂ˛ di Ciro Salvo achieved Three Slices in our Top Italian Restaurants guide. His highly hydrated dough is simply unique in the world...

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

STORIES

hird generation of a family of pizza makers, Ciro Salvo was born in Naples and trained in his grandmother’s pizzeria in the Portici neighbourhood, first as a baker and then kneading the dough. His pizza is unique in the world,with a highly hydrated dough, very light, digestible, dreamy. Not to mention his fried pizzas and his pasta fritters. In 2014, a pizzeria named Kalò opened a few steps from the Mergellina seafront in Naples: a name not accidental because 50 is the bread in the Neapolitan cabala, while kalò is the local pizzaioli’s ancient jargon for “good”. In March 2018 50 Kalò opened in the heart of London: Tre Spicchi recognition and then an award for best pizza in town in our Top Italian Restaurants 2019 guide. We went to visit the Trafalgar Square venue. “My favorite game as a kid was making pizza, my hobby is making pizza. I made my playtime my job, now my fortune. I am someone who wakes up and goes to a pizzeria. I enjoy it: it’s priceless!”. Why London and what was the idea behind it? London is in many ways the capital of Europe, an important showcase: I wanted to leave an indelible mark on Neapolitan pizza. I had the idea several years, but I am a very meticulous and attentive, so I would never have opened just to put a sign on the door. Oﬀering a good product is more important than money, income is the consequence of what you do, if you work well, economic success will come. I wanted to transfer the identity, the soul of the restaurant: those coming to London must live the same gastronomic experience like the one in Naples. The basic know-how needs to be transferred to the people who work here, without the team behind you, you go nowhere. All the guys here have been working in

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TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

Do you truly believe in wine and pizza pairings? I am always all for substance, I could get have had a wine list designed by top consultants. The wine list I have is only the result of my own work, I’ve tasted the wines, and don’t want to take shortcuts: I want to make mistakes with my own hands. Yes, I like challenges. I studied alone, drinking, reading wine guides, or trying to read, that is. I think I know the wines of Campania well, there is an offer of wines that can satisfy the request for pizza. Campania wine and Neapolitan pizza are simply the best together. Brexit situation? Foreign labor, which is fleeing from London, is now very diﬃcult to find. Think dishwashers. The city needs foreign labor, Londoners don’t come here as waiters. For the sake of their economy, I really hope that they won’t cut their own legs oﬀ, it would be a sensational defeat.

Naples 4/5 years with me, they know my modus operandi. The ingredients are practically the same. I wanted to bring the air of Naples to London. Do you oﬀer hands-on advice to other pizza entrepreneurs? I have lots of requests but I don’t offer this service because I don’t believe in it. Advice ends when you leave the pizzeria, it has a start date and an end date. It’s temporary, venues need to be taken care of over time, otherwise they tend to go oﬀ track, and lose identity. I come to London every month for a week, otherwise what’s the point of having a restaurant there? Your idea of pizza. My pizza is my interpretation of Neapolitan pizza, a pizza with a precise

identity that nbears the imprint of the artisan pizza maker, and myself. I have always been fixated on mastering the perfect dough, today I am 41 years old, I started kneading after finishing high school at age 18, I took the family recipe that has been handed down for generations and I evolved it through research, study, my curiosity towards the reason for things. I created a very soft mixture, rich in water. I was the precursor of hyperhydrated doughs. But let’s remember that dough is always a combination of things, there are a series of details that must be taken into consideration: it’s the union of things that gives the best results. Plus, how to stretch and how to bake the dough, it takes a lot of experience in handling: it’s so easy to ruin a pizza!

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According to myth, real Neapolitan pizza can only be made in Naples: the water, the air of Naples, the city’s moisture. We are now beyond this, don’t you think? Very simple: pizza is made by pizza chefs, not water or flour. A pizza maker who knows how to work, knows how to choose the right flour, can adapt to the climate of the place. Pizza is always a combination of factors: finding the right balance with the knowledge of the subject matter and experience, Neapolitan pizza can be made in any corner of the world. And it’s not certain that the best Neapolitan pizza is necessarily the one from Naples. Sure, pizza was born in Naples, it has its roots there, the city boasts the greatest number of pizza makers but we can’t exclude that tomorrow someone born in Ecuador may make better pizza than us Neapolitans.

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN LONDON

50 KALÒ LONDON DI CIRO SALVO

POPOLO SHOREDITCH 26 Rivington Street - London

7 Northumberland Ave - London

Average Price: €

CACIO & PEPE 46 Churton St - London Average Price: € 35

Small, cozy, easygoing. This bou-

Don’t think twice. enter to this small

The London branch of Ciro Salvo is

tique restaurant in a quite alley of

bistrot and take a seat at the coun-

running at full speed. Ciro, the third

Shoreditich and offers an hearty

ter. Then, ask for a cacio&pepe pasta.

generation of master pizza makers,

cucina italiana with a Spanish

In the meantime, enjoy a crispy and re-

has done everything properly. The

twist. Small tapas style dishes, honest pric-

freshing white wine available also by the

first foreign pizzeria is in Westminster, a

es, consistent quality. Chef Jon Lawson

glass. And finally enjoy some homemade

modern place, with a checkered floor, a

has a knach for spices and is very skilled

tagliolini cacio&pepe served in a crispy

red oven in plain sight and marble col-

on fresh pastas (made on the premises)

parmesan basket. It’s not only fo a sce-

umns. Our last visit confirmed the absolute

which he proposes in classic Italian reci-

nic purpose, this classic Roman recipes

excellence of the dough and baking. Fried

pes. During our last visit, we had some

is here made right to the point: creamy,

starters like a fragrant and mouthwater-

very good pork cheek agnolotti, porcini,

melting on the palate, with the right

ing calzone or a mind-blowing frittatina

butter and an amazingly matched grilled

amount of pecorino cheese. It seems

di pasta which we are still dreaming of.

octopus with seaweed baba, za’afar, plus

easy but it’s not. If you’re up for a main,

The Margherita was exceptional, balanced

a tasty spiced lamb with a Morrocan twist.

go for the delicate grilled seabass with

flavors, tasty tomato sauce, fragrant basil

The wine list is all natural and carefully se-

Jerusalmen artichokes. A young and

and enveloping mozzarella; mouthful of

lected. A few seats, very friendly service,

friendly service complete the experience.

great pleasure, airy and digestible. This is

good music, good vibes.

Average Price: € 25

a world class model. From the other versions, do not miss the Del Monaco Dop, with crushed peel tomatoes, fior di latte cheese, Irpinian salami, shaved provolone del monaco, and basil. All ingredients are top notch, Ciro is using the same super quality tomatoes (casa Marrazzo), extra virgin olive oil and cheeses he’s used to offer in Naples. Very well matched wine list, plus a good espresso. What are you waiting for?

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TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

London hosts a rising number of great Italian restaurants. Each has its own character, and many are very original. Looking over 3,000 locations in the capital, we see that most have left behind the checked tablecloths, mandolins and cutlet-with-spaghetti-as-a-side-dish of the past. Wine bars know how to offer the indigenous wares of small and even tiny producers alongside the more important, familiar names. And then there’s pizza, which no Italian living abroad will willingly give up. In London, it definitely stands out.

PASSIONE VINO

MARGOT

85 Leonard St - London

45 Great Queen St - London

Average Price: € 20

Average Price: € 45

Luca and Isabel run this stylish

The Covent Garden venue displays

wine shop and bar in the vibrant

a great attention to detail, elegance,

district of Shoreditch. The fo-

slilish vintage tones and impeccable

cus is all about personally selected small

service. The menu strongpoint is

artisan wine makers from Italy. Get sur-

surely the stuffed pastas like pumpkin

prised with many Italian vignerons which

or ricotta filled ravioli or some genener-

work under sustanaible criteria and solid

ous and tasty pappardelle with wild boar

values. The atmosphere is unformal, ca-

ragù. From the secondi, we suggest the

sual, elegant. Hipster,in a good way. Take

grilled octopus with chickpeas and the

some comfort on a chair or grab a glass

right on point baked veal ossobuco with

and seat at the shared table. Prices and

Milanese risotto. Classic modern cuisine

service are very friendly, this is a perfect

made with top quality ingredients and a

spot to enjoy a terroir driven bottle. The

particularly ample wine list curated are

owners are often arranging tasting and

the key, many Italian labels as well as

tailor made wine dinners, check the web-

lesser known delights from the rest of

site to stay updated.

the world. Open 364 days a year, lunch and dinner.

LOCANDA LOCATELLI 8 Seymour St., Regent’s Park and Marylebone - London Average Price: € 80 Once you taste the food, you’ll understand the popularity of Locatelli. Our last visit showcased a no woweffect but a solid path, punctuated by perfect service temperatures, proper cooking that enhance juiciness and freshness. Locatelli’s cuisine is traditional and refined, at the core we found quality ingredients and a stellar service. Solidity and constancy over time complete the picture. Think homemade gnocchi with morels: pillowy, delicate yet intense, with just a dusting of grated parmigiano. The roast squab was sumptuous, served with lentils and garlic puree, a sublime result of technical sklils. Recently we also had some delicious pan fried calf’s kidneys cooked right at the point. The wine list is phenomenal, with its 10 old dégorgements of Giulio Ferrari, as an example. Sure, a little too ’90s in some choices, but rich in surprises and complete with maps and detailed captions. Desserts and on point, service impeccable and highly professional. This is more than a dining institution..

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN LONDON

LI VELI 69 Long Acre - London Average Price: € 30

BECK AT BROWN’S 33 Albemarle St - London Average Price: €

The London branch of Ciro Salvo

Last April Heinz Beck’s cuisine has

is runA fresh breath of Puglia in

landed in London in the historic and

London. After 40 years of experi-

classy Brown’s hotel. The restaurant,

ence in Tuscany, the Falvo family

redesigned by Olga Polizzi, is both

moved to Puglia in 1999 when they de-

researched and somehow casual, with a

cided to buy and renovate Masseria Li Veli.

warm “home feeling” atmosphere. The

Later on the Falvo family decied to open

menu is linear, with some Heinz super

this cozy wine bar and bistrot in Covent

classic recipes such as fagottelli carbonara,

Garden. Get ready to approach native

beautifully made, a rich choice of salads, a

grapes such as sussumaniello, verdeca,

focused offer of seafood speacialties. Fine

negroamaro, malvasia nera and much

British ingredients meet Italian recipes

more. The wine list covers most of the re-

with high care for details and scenic pre-

gions of Italy with smart prices and a good

sentations. Remember, save some room

selection available by the glass. The menu

for desserts that are among the best ones

displays regional food specialties such as

in town. Excellent. No surprise, the service

orecchiette pasta or bombette pork rolls

is super attentive and professional. Surgiva

with caciocavallo cheese and mushrooms,

Taste & Design Award 2019.

or the polpo in pignata (stewed octopus).

FIUME Circus West Village, Battersea Power Station - London Average Price: € 50 Southern Italian flavors in southern London. Everything is running at full speed at Fiume, the last opening of Chef Francesco Mazzei , which can count on a stunning position in Battersea Popwer Sation’s Circus West Village. The menu focuses on regional reciepes served with a simple and elegant outfit. The tables are graced by eggplant parmigiana, Sardinian fgregola, ravioli filled with burrata, Milanese style breaded cutlets (which was among our highlight), and a proper tiramisu. The cuisine of Mazzei and Franceso Chiarelli, head chef, is reassuring but always hits the target, allowing his British patrons to virtually travel along the sunny and uneven roads of the Italian South. Very

Our suggestion? Try the Askos Verdeca, a

professional service and all Italian wine

fragrant white with redolent of Mediter-

list complete the experience.

ranean herbs and citrus; on the palate it comes through very savory and succulent. This is a one way ticket to Puglia.?

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

www.gamberorosso.it/en/restaurants/

MACELLAIO RC SOUTH KENSINGTON

RADIO ALICE 16 Hoxton Square - London

84 Old Brompton Rd, Kensington

Average Price: € 15

- London

Calabria native brothers Mat-

Average Price: € 35

teo and Salvatore Aloe chose

The format that Ligurian host

Shoreditch for their London

Roberto Costa (that explains the

pizzeria. At The Radio Alice (named af-

RC) has developed appeals to in-

ter the popular Sixties indie radio sta-

stinct and belly, with a menu that

tion in Bologna) the pizzas are light and

makes you hungry just reading it. Chees-

crisp, and come to the table already

es and salumi (cured meats) come direct-

sliced. Emma King, co-founder of the

ly from small Italian producers. Fassona

Gayl’s baker offered precious support.

Piemontese beef is the star of the show

The pizzas are crafted with organic and

– raw, sliced, as steak – but there’s also a

stone-milled semi-whole wheat flours,

delightful choice of cucina povera dishes,

plus Enkir, kamut, rye and corn flours.

the famed fifth quarter, the quinto quarto,

These are left to leaven long and slow,

as Italians refer to organ meats and lesser

and then topped with organic and sea-

bits – a rarity on the Italian scene in Brit-

sonal top quality ingredients. Hosted in

ain. We found coda alla vaccinara (oxtail)

a repurposed factory, the evening flows

as well as tripe alla romana (with tomato,

pleasantly also thanks to the sustainable

mint and pecorino cheese). Side dishes

work of small Italian boutique vineyards

make up for any guilty meaty feelings and

present on the wine list. A second space

a Ligurian-style oven turns out focaccia.

recently also opened in Chapham.

Besides South Kensington, opened in 2012, Roberto has opened many locations in town (including a branch in Milan) keeping a solid and consisten quality.

SARTORIA 20 Savile Row, Mayfair London Average Price: € 50 Francesco Mazzei proves to be the most dynamic Italian chef in town. The chef is now exploring more and more of the Southern Italy’s specialties, but with a modern twist. Sartoria is a stylish and refined place, with a relaxing bar fully charged, and an articulate offer which ranges from breakfast to dinner. The cuisine is strictly focused on regional specialties, prepared with carefully selected ingredients and beautifully presented. The menu features a range of dishes such as classic “vitello tonnato”, good lasagne, tasty fregola, flawless Milanese cutlet or rabbit Ischia-style, that is, slow-cooked with white wine and Mediterranean aromas. Truffle fans will be satisfied in the right season, as well as wine lovers. The selection of Italian wines by the glass is amazing, and the wine list is very extensive and covers the whole of Italy. Attentive and very professional service.

GAMBERO ROSSO X BIANCAVIGNA

BiancaVigna, a sustainable winery from the hills of Conegliano Valdobbiadene

BiancaVigna was founded by siblings Elena and Enrico Moschetta in 2004 but its roots date back to the early 20th century with their grandfather Genesio who farms the family’s vineyards and acquires more parcels, among which the cru San Gallo. Later on, in 1958 their father Luigi is one of the first business partners of the wine cooperative Colli di Soligo who instilled the passion for winemaking in Enrico, who later graduated from oenological training school in Conegliano and took up a successful career as winemaker in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene district. Elena studied economics and

BiancaVigna is guided by the principle of a sustainable practice applied throughout the production chain took a brilliant path in this field but, for the both of them, the greatest dream was to open a winery making wines that could be the expression of

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

their terroir and using their estate’s grapes. Eventually, they joined their skills, invested in new vineyards and in a modern, highly efficient, stateof-the-art wine cellar nestled in the charming rolling hills of Ogliano di Conegliano, on the eastern side of the historical area of production of Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG. Their project is guided by the principle of a sustainable practice applied throughout the production chain. In the vineyards, they adopt the Sqnpi protocol (quality certified and environmentally friendly) to limit the use of chemicals. They also take part in the research “Resistant Glera”, spear-

GAMBERO ROSSO X BIANCAVIGNA

1, Enrico and Elena Moschetta 2, Enrico Moschetta in the winery 3. The winery, built using green and eco-friendly materials

headed by the Centre of Viticulture Research in Conegliano, with the aim to select clones of glera grape variety that are more resistant to the most common diseases, and therefore able to drastically reduce the use of treatments. In addition, the best exposed parcels are due to convert to organic certification. The wine cellar is built according to the green protocol of Casa Clima Wine: “my brother and I wanted to build our wine cellar combining together the lowest possible impact for the environment

and for those who live in these beautiful hills, as well as having a modern facility to work with high quality standards while also paying attention to details. So, we used eco-friendly and recycled materials reducing the use of energy thanks to perfect insulation, the size of the glass windows and an efficient heating system that uses waste hot water from the refrigerated fermentation tanks and autoclaves. Photovoltaic cells are about to be installed in the roof minimizing the use of energy from fossil fuels.

BiancaVigna – via Montenero, 8/c – Conegliano (TV) – 0438788403 – biancavigna.it

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

Also, boxes are made with recycled cardboard as well as bottles that, not only are made with recycled glass, but are also lighter than those normally used for sparkling wines saving CO2 emissions during transportation. BiancaVigna brings together the legacy of the past with a great passion and knowledge of the land, and a deep sense of responsibility for today’s and future generations.

STORIES

Gambero Rosso & Vinexpo The partnerships keeps on with an exclusive selection of Top Italian wines showcased in Bordeaux

PARC DES EXPOSITIONS DE BORDEAUX EXHIBITION CENTRE Monday, May 13, 2019 Academy – Entrance K Tasting Lab – Hall 1 10:00 - 11:30 | Masterclass - Vini d’Italia Special Awards Tuesday, May 14, 2019 Academy – Entrance K Tasting Lab – Hall 1 16:00 - 17:30 | Mastercass - Gambero Rosso Rosati d’Italia 2019 Wednesday, May 15, 2019 Tasting Lounge – Hall 2-Entrance C 10:00 – 18:30 | Grand Tasting Gambero Rosso and Vinexpo experienced a very fruitful partnership over the last three years. The first collaboration happened in Hong Kong in May 2016 with a grand tasting in the spectacular Grand Foyer of the HK Convention Center, followed by The Blend event, a trendy “Aperitivo Italiano” featuring the best Italian liquors, gind and much more blended by world class bartenders. The partnership contuined in Tokyo with the Vinexpo in November 2016 with a vibrant edition of the Tre Bicchieri Rosso tasting event including more than 100 awarded wineries, a masterclass about the crispy Prosecco and a vetical of the flaghisp Amarone produced by the Allegrini winery. For the first time, in June 2017, Gambero Rosso joined Vinexpo Bordeaux with a super premium selection of awarded wineries and two in-depth masterclasses focusing the special awarded wines in the Guide, plus a memorable tasting of Bellavista’s bublles ranging 6 different big format covering more than 20 years of aging on the yeasts. In 2018 Gambero & Vinexpot joined forces again at Vinex-

po Hong Kong, with a grand tasting and masterclass on the Top Italian Spirits. The partnership will be strengthened during the next edition of Vinexpo Bordeaux, held from May 13 to May 16. Gambero Rosso is ready to come back with the flagship Tre Bicchieri tasting event, the top wines rated in Vini d’Italia 2019. The Grand Tasting will take place on Wednesday, May 15, at the Tasting Lounge, hall 2 of the Palais del l’Atlantique. On May 13 at 10am is scheduled the masterclass about the Special Awards 2019, eleven wines for eleven awards, the best of the best of the 2019 edition of the Guide. An occasion not to miss to understand the spirit of Gambero Rosso’s team of 70 dedicated experts and the state of the art of the Italian wine scene. While on May 15, at 4pm, is scheduled the Gambero Rosso Rosati d’Italia 2019 tasting to discover some of the most interesting Italian native varieties in their youthful and fresh Rosé variation. Gambero Rosso has dedicated a masterclass for those who intend to deepen the knowledge of the Italian way to the Rosé, be it still or sparkling.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

Consorzio Vini di Romagna on the spotlight in the US

Lambrusco, Romagna Sangiovese Albana. Emilia Romagna wines are living a golden moment abroad. We noticed an enormous interest during our Tre Bicchieri US tour. We organized 4 masterclasses in cooperation with the Consorzio Vini di Romagna about the joyful and beautiful wines of the region which come at a very democratic prices. Producers were on the front line together with Marco Sabellico, Senior Editor of Vini d'Italia guide, and Giuseppe Carrus, vice-editor of Vini d'Italia. If you’re looking for food friendly wines, these ones are going to be your everyday wines. There’s never enough Lambrusco on the table…

An essential book for all who love Italian wine More than 70 experts spent months doing blind tastings in every region of Italy

Italian

EDITIONS

Italian

English

Chinese

Japanese

2530 PRODUCERS 22100 WINES 447 TRE BICCHIERI 102 TRE BICCHIERI VERDI

www.gamberorosso.it

STORIES

NEW YORK

CHICAGO

USA TOUR - PHOTOGALLERY

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

LOS ANGELES

SAN FRANCISCO

GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

Contadi Castaldi BEST WINE BAR IN THE US During the US Tre Bicchieri Tour, Gambero Rosso has awarded the Contadi Castaldi Best wine bars in towns according to the Top Italian Restaurants guide. Authentic character, product traceability, by the glass selection, service and the quality of the wine list were important criteria.

Contadi Castaldi Best Wine bar in Chicago

Contadi Castaldi Best Wine bar in NY

DISOTTO ENOTECA

ANFORA

200 E Chestnut St -

34 8th Avenue - New

Chicago. Average

York. Average Price: € 25 It’s amphora fever. The use of terraccotta excites producers, critics and the public, from Georgia to New York City. If you’re in town, pay a visit to this delicious wine bar in the Greenwich Village. The wine selection managed by Cody Pruitt is brilliant, with a smart and extensive choice availabe by the glass. The focus is on very small producers, less known denominations and traditional terroir driven wines carefully selected. Italy leads the way, together with glu glu wines from France, Spain, and Germany. Plus, a proper selection of beers and well balanced cocktails. A bunch of crostini and sandwiches, or a tagliere of salami and cheeses complete the experience. Cozy and relaxed atmosphere.

Price: € 30 An underground Italian wine bar with a Chicago twist. DiSotto, the enoteca owned by Scott Harris, is located under francesca’s on Chestnut. The atmosphere is warm and intimate, with a cave-like feeling. Tables are sorrounded by brick walls, bottles and prosciutti. Shorltly, the perfect spot for an aperitivo or a late night bottle. We invite you to grab some olives or a bruschetta and then focus on a proper wine chosen among a smart wine list. The selection is mainly Italian, including traditional and modern producers, plus some French and American labels which show an eye toward artisanal vignerons. Honest prices and a friendly service.

GAMBERO ROSSO

Contadi Castaldi Best Wine bar in San Francisco

Contadi Castaldi Best Wine bar in Los Angeles

INOVINO

BAR BANDINI

108-B Carl Street San Francisco Average Price: € 20 What a lovely wine bar. Kari and Francesco run the bar in the Cole Valley neighborhood. The atmosphere is cosy, both at the counter and at the outside tables. The wine list is designed with love and research, and includes lesser known indigenous terroirs and traditional style wines, with a focus on artisanal vignerons. There are about 20 wines poured by the glass, also available in halfglasses, and a fine value for money selection of labels. It is difficult to find such good bottles around the $30 mark. These are paired to delicious snacks such as vegetable flans, plates of cheese and cured meats, an amatriciana with all the trappings of the genre, a solid classic in tune with the rest of the solid cuisine. Good lighting and casual atmosphere.

MARCH 2019

2150 Sunset Blvd - Los Angeles “Arturo Bandini was pretty sure that he wouldn’t go to hell when he died”. This lovely wine bar is dedicated to one the greasted of Jhon Fante’s character. Arturo Bandini, what a name and what a character! First of all, here the wine selection is simply brilliant, with a smart choice available by the glass. The focus is on natural wines, sur lie sparlin wines, low sulphites labels and micro vignerons. Italy leads the way, together with glu glu wines from France, and much, much more. Drinkability is the key, take a seat and enjoy some beautiful and vibrant bottles from the old world. A warm and a super chilled atmosphere complete the package. If you’re in town and you love wine, this is the place to be.

the first “wine cruise” in the world 18-25 January 2020 GRANDIOSA CRUISE FLAGSHIP

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VINITALY IS HERE. 6 INTERNATIONAL JOURNALISTS EXPLAIN HOW THE WORLD SEES At its fiftieth edition, the main Italian wine event returns to galvanize an audience of enthusiasts, critics and buyers that from all over Italy and from all over the world meet annually in Verona. A city that rightly considers itself a valid candidate as capital of wine tourism in Italy. An inevitable appointment, both inside and outside the Veronafiere pavilions, from 7 to 10 April. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how six international journalists experience Vinitaly. With some advice to better enjoy the event and the city

Words by Loredana Sottile e William Pregentelli Art by Andrea Chronopoulos

STORIES

pring is coming and the diaries of producers, buyers and tasters are already all synchronized on the same dates: 7-10 April. Under a single inscription now known throughout the world, without the need for translation: Vinitaly.Because by now we know, April for the world of wine is practically synonymous with Verona and with the International Wine and Spirits Exhibition. The strong point? The capability, in these 53 years, to remain true to itself, while renewing in order to intercept new stimuli that come from the market: from digital innovation (with the digital catalog Vinitaly Directory Oﬃcial Catalog & Business Guide, available this year in 9 languages) to internationalization, which is leading Veronafiere to gain more and more ground abroad (see the arrival of new company Verona Parma Exibitions, the acquisition of the Bellavita Expo group and the exhibition debut of Brazil). The International Wine Hall, already successfully tested in the Verona salon, goes in this direction: two spaces that combine the exhibition area with a full calendar of workshops and tastings.

WINE, OIL AND YOUNG PEOPLE. 5 THINGS TO PUT IN THE AGENDA

On April 7, as usual, we start with the Tre Bicchieri walk around tasting of Gambero Rosso and continue with the tasting led by Ian D’Agata in collaboration with the Association of Women of Wine I vini delle donne del vino under 30.

Among the promotion of wines and social networks is the Young to Young initiative, which combines tastings with the communicative verve of the best young wine bloggers. This year, the novelty is a series of master classes on artisan wines, in collaboration with the Vi.te Association.

2 Tuesday 9 April, mark your calendars for the tasting of Riccardo Cotarella. The seven wines that have made their territories great, namely Piedmont, Tuscany, Marche, Lazio and Campania.

3 As for the world of Extra Virgin Olive Oils, the new Oli d’Italia 2019 guide from Gambero Rosso is presented on Monday 8 April, the ninth edition completely renewed, in two languages (Italian and English) with a great appeal to the business world: at the PalaExpò, at 3 pm, the Special Prizes are also awarded to the producers selected for the last oil harvest and production.

A WORD BY MANTOVANI «I think there is added value for a company in having a certain historicity - explains general manager Giovanni Mantovani - which obviously is not a suﬃcient condition, but it’s almost necessary in terms of aﬃrming one’s brand in the world. And Vinitaly, as also recalled by Minister Gian Marco Centinaio at Anteprima Amarone, is a brand recognized worldwide, from the United States to China to Europe. It is, in all likelihood, the main brand related to Italian wine. That said, we have been organizing wine events for over 120 years, and we know that we must keep up with the market and try to guess changes early on and, where possible, anticipate them, in or-

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

5 Among the tastings organized by the exhibitors, on the other hand, this year major protagonists will be the Amarone della Valpolicella with several appointments, including the 10-year tasting of the Historical Families and the Masi Technical Seminary; Montepulciano by the Consorzio del Vino Nobile; Cirò; Morellino di Scansano; Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

VINITALY SPECIAL

VINITALY AND THE CITY 6 SPACES TO KEEP AN EYE OUT DURING FUORISALONE From Friday 5th to Monday 8th April, Verona will host Vinitaly and The City, the Vinitaly fuorisalone. As every year, there are many initiatives: tastings, concerts, shows, meetings, guided tours, exhibitions (and much more) alternating in the most suggestive areas of the city that will turn into a stage for engaging experiences, halfway between culture and entertainment. The areas where the events will take place are two: #ZONE 1 (Historic Centre – Red wines and Champagne)

1 PIAZZA DEI SIGNORI Also known as Piazza Dante, together with Piazza delle Erbe it represents the heart of the city. Here, around 200 labels of the best Italian red wines will be hosted with a special selection of food trucks. There will also be a special video-mapping show.

2 CORTILE MERCATO VECCHIO The Cortile del Mercato Vecchio will host the Salotto del Gusto and the Piccola Enoteca, where there will be an amazing selection of Champagne. There will also be bartenders who will compete in wine-based recipes. It’s also the main venue for the performance shows.

3 LOGGIA DI FRA GIOCONDO This will host the Digital Corner, the space of the social media event team that will take care of interviews and content; the stage dedicated to talks, meetings and workshops; a special area dedicated to Winetop, a project to promote Verona wines created by the Verona Chamber of Commerce..

#ZONE 2 (San Zeno and Arsenale - Whites, rosé and international bubbles, plus big Italian wines)

5 PIAZZA SAN ZENO The treasure chest of the city’s traditions, where the Carnival and the patronal festival of San Zeno take place. It will host around 200 labels of the best white and rosé wines, along with a selection of international wines. It will be the square dedicated to folk, rock and pop music, with concerts and dance evenings.

6 FONTANA DELL’ARSENALE Here, around 200 labels of great sparkling wines and a selection of the great Italian wines await you. The Ex Arsenale’s Piazza della Vasca will also be the scene of special performing arts shows that will be supported by a setting of suggestive lights and design elements.

4 LOGGIA ANTICA The Ancient Loggia will host exclusive tastings, led by professional and expert sommeliers.

vinitaly

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

The city is a candidate to become the capital of wine tourism. And Veronafiere supports this vision der to give directions, implement strategies for the development of the wine sector as a market development tool. Also because the wine sector and Vinitaly are two sides of the same coin. The study of markets, the international network of relations, training with the Academy that prepares the “ambassadors” of Italian wine in the world, interaction with institutions and stakeholders, digitalisation are some of the elements on which we identify our activity and on which the next business plan is based». NEWS 2019 Returning to Vinitaly 2019, next to these already consolidated formulas there are two important innovations (sign of the times): the new Vinitaly Design salon and the Organic Hall. Both within the F. Organic Hall pavilion is an evolution of the organic area that brings together organic wines, produced according to European legislation, in collaboration with Federbio and the collective of artisan producers of the Vi.Te. - Winegrowers and Territories. Vinitaly Design is, instead, a bet, which will partly overlap with Enolitech, the show dedicated to the technological chain applied to viticulture, olive growing and beverage, which in 2020 will return to Fieragricola, as it was in the beginning. But why a design salon? “The objective - Mantovani answers - is to intercept the growing trends of all the thematic chains associated with the wine

STORIES

TRE BICCHIERI 2019 ITALY’S BEST WINES WITH GAMBERO ROSSO This year too, Gambero Rosso will be present with a stand at Vinitaly (Pavillion 9 - C 16). And the great Tre Bicchieri tasting will also return; the 32nd issue of Vini d’Italia awarded 447 wines, pearls of the Italian wine scene: many of these labels, from renowned companies to small emerging producers, will be protagonists for one day of the Vinitaly tasting tables. As usual there will

Vinitaly increasingly aims at international markets for Made in Italy through partnerships and events around the world

be the Special Awards, the Tre Bicchieri under 15 euros and the Tre Bicchieri Verdi, roduced from grapes from vineyards in organic or bio-

product. And packaging, design, furnishings, accessories are increasingly central service elements for a product that is never so globalized, never so close to the fashion industry. Today the wine is also refined outside the cask. A refinement of the coordinated visual image for haute cuisine, wine bars, wine bars, wineries, up to the large-scale retail trade. The intent of the Show is to involve the contract dedicated to the wine sector in the future». Knowing how to look beyond, the birth of this Salone is linked to another phenomenon that is exploding at the moment: the reception in the cellar, better known as wine tourism.

dynamic cultivation.

event

that will appeal to all the experts, buyers

and

wine

lovers who will visit the

international

wine fair on Sunday April 7.

Sunday, April 7 at 11.30 am 4.30 pm Sala Argento (floor -1 Palaexpo, entrance A2)

ILLUSTRATOR’S TRAIT In the scene I illustrated, wine, in addition to being the protagonist of the event, is also an element of cohesion and conviviality. In the illustration I imagined a single great space where all fair activities take place, from tastings to presentations. – Andrea Chronopoulos

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

WINE TOURISM There’s great interest in all Italian wine (pending the bill that should regulate it) in wine tourism and especially the city of Verona, which has just been a candidate to become the reference city for wine tourism in Italy and to host the world convention on wine tourism organized by the UN World Tourism Organization and scheduled for 2021. The candidacy was also supported by the director of Veronafiere: «The fair with Vinitaly is ready to do its part together with the other institutions; we believe that such an event can further strengthen the centrality of Veneto and in particular of Verona, the first Italian province for wine exports and the seat

VINITALY SPECIAL

of the largest wine event in our country». This is someone who is well versed in local incoming. In 2018, attendance at the fair reached 128,000, to which must be added the arrival of consumer visitors, increasingly attracted by “Vinitaly and the City” show (this year April 5-8). A hand-powered formula strengthened and redesigned to give specificity and separate the two moments: that of the business within the perimeter of the Fair and the convivial one in the historic center and on the neighboring territories. With the appreciation of Italian wineries, which have already responded in a way that leaves no room for doubt: the sold out of all spaces.

SAPORÉ PIZZA STAND UP

BERBERÈ Arena

PIZZERIA DU DE COPE

SAPORÈ DOWNTOWN

Stazione Porta Nuova

Verona Fiere Vinitaly

ASSAPORITO

I TIGLI S.R.L.

San Bonifacio

6 TOP PIZZERIE FOR APRES-VINITALY

1 Saporè Downtown Verona – via Amanti, 6 0458032221 – boscorenato.it @saporedowntown At the city branch of Renato Bosco be sure to enjoy his musts: Aria di Pane®, Mozzarella di Pane®, Bagel Pizza, Pizza Crunch® and DoppioCrunch®, in addition to the classic pie (the “flagship” is located in San Martino Buonalbergo where in 2009 Renato started his journey).

2 Saporè Pizza StandUp Verona - via della Costa, 5 0458010870 - boscorenato.it @saporestandup This is Renato Bosco’s take-out format. Here you can choose between the PizzaCrunch® and PizzaDoppioCrunch® (characterized by an extremely crisp crust) and contemporary street food. And then there’s bread: from the great classics such as the Pasta Madre Viva bread, to the osette stuffed with mortadella. To close there is the leavened cake with Pasta Madre Viva.

3 Berberè Verona - via Pellicciai, 2 0452066922 - berberepizza.it The Veneto headquarters of the creation of brothers Matteo and Salvatore Aloe from Calabria and emigrated to study economics in Bologna. That’s where (precisely Castel Maggiore) the adventure started. Pizzas made with semi-wholemeal organic and stoneground flour, sourdough and superselected ingredients.

4 Du De Cope Verona - galleria Pellicciai, 10 – 045595562 pizzeriadudecope.it @PizzeriaDuDeCope The “pizza world” of chef Giancarlo Perbellini. Among the “historic” pies try the Capitelli ham and the Margherita with the buffalo mozzarella; among “the chef selections”: try the pizza with cabbage, porcini and tastasal powder, or with lard, anchovies and confit tomatoes, or the Amatriciana, the revisited Sausage and Friarielli or

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MARCH 2019

the tomatoless topped with roast pork and burrata whose crust is made with seared wheat dough.

5 I Tigli San Bonifacio (VR) via Camporosolo, 11 0456102606 pizzeriaitigli.it @PizzeriaITigli The reign of one of the great pizza artists, Simone Padoan. His signature pies are the meeting point between his two passions: traditional pizza and gourmet cuisine. With super ingredients (including extra virgin olive oil).

6 Assaporito Verona – v.le del Lavoro, 32a 045502438 guglielmovuolo.com @pizzeria guglielmovuoloverona Home of master pizzaiolo, second generation and true Neapolitan, Guglielmo Vuolo in partnership with Marco Dolci’s workshop. Three doughs a day (in addition to experiments, such as sea water) and selected ingredients.

STORIES

6 international journalists comment on Vinitaly From that distant 1967 of the first edition to today, it appears evident how the Fair’s reach has become increasingly international: not only for the rich series of events hosted at Vinitaly International (the Vinitaly platform that promotes and markets Italian wine abroad) but also for the crowd of foreign colleagues that for four days move between the pavilions of VeronaFiere, engaged in tastings, degustations and meetings with producers. We collected the impressions of some of them and took stock of the event that, for 53 years, has been gathering in Verona the entire Italian wine sector. I

attended about 20 editions of Vinitaly, although lately I found it a bit difficult to focus carefully on the wines. Vinitaly is a great fair, the most complete cross-section of Italian wine. But sometimes it’s a bit chaotic. It would be interesting to create quieter areas to taste wine “in private”, perhaps a place to invite producers to taste their latest releases and discuss them together. I prefer to taste the wines directly in the cellar or in my studio: at Vinitaly there are no conditions to do this part of my work well. That said, the fair is still very useful and stimulating, above all because it gives me the opportunity to meet many people - colleagues, producers, traders - whom I respect and admire and with whom I can professionally confront; what I like most about the fair is this aspect. Vinitaly continues to be extremely important for Italian producers and the trade of their wines: all those who deal with the trade and the promotion of Italian wine abroad see a central moment in the fair. Perhaps we journalists a little less.. – Monica Larner Wine Advocate (USA)

GERMANY SPAIN

U.S.

I attended Vinitaly only once, last year, but it was more than enough to give me an idea. It seemed to me a fundamental event to learn about Italian wine, above all for the chance to meet many producers and deepen their style. Yet there are still companies that have difficulties with English, a problem to be solved as soon as possible, especially in view of events with an international character like this. For us communicators, attending this fair is a source of interesting ideas: I deal with market trends and participation has allowed me to fill my blog with content. From the point of view of international promotion then, the fair is working hard, but if I had to give one piece of advice, I would suggest increasing efforts on an emerging market like South America. Which are the wines that I liked the most? Many actually, but I would say that I was impressed by the Marchesi di Barolo: great family, excellent wines. – Adrian Moreno - herewewine.com (Spagna)

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH 2019

VINITALY SPECIAL

ÈIt’s now a regular event: I have attended about twenty editions, including the latest; obviously I will also go to the next one. The strength of Vinitaly is certainly the ability to bring together the whole of Italy under one roof, including organic producers and artisanal and “natural” producers in the Organic Hall space (replacing Vivit that was perhaps too small). The presence of wines from other countries is scarce, but to me the huge varied offer of Italy is enough. In recent years, the public also seems to have improved, probably thanks to a more complete offer of “Vinitaly and The City” and to more effective controls, but private winelovers are still many and crowd the pavilions. Then we need strong nerves to deal with traffic jams, parking queues, taxis, but the fact is that these events are increasingly frequented and some discomfort is normal. As far as the international vision of the fair is concerned, I believe that, with the exception of a few superbrands, every winery needs a vehicle and cohesion to be able to present itself abroad: in this the Vinitaly gives a very effective hand to the sector. The fair, with its extensions abroad, is one of the means for Italian companies to make themselves known outside the borders, and certainly one of the most important. – Veronica Crecelius - WeinWirtschaft (Germania)

TAIWAN

HONG KONG

I attended seven editions, this year will be my eighth. What makes Vinitaly unique is the wide range of Italian wineries, broken down by region. Being very popular, it gives the opportunity to meet many professionals and to discover new bottles. And moreover, it’s a way to see friends who work in this field, a significant aspect for those coming from far away. A suggestion for improvement? Perhaps we still need to work a little on the quality of the public, but from this point of view I have noticed a clear improvement in the last few years. The concentration in one place of many Italian companies makes my job much easier: finding Piedmontese producers within walking distance of the Tuscan ones saves me a lot of time that otherwise I would have had to spend in the car travelling from one region to another. To taste the wines and get to know a winery in depth, time and tranquility is needed, but Vinitaly is necessary to make the first contacts.. – Xiaowen Huang - clubalogue.com (Taiwan)

I have been at Vinitaly for the past three years and I am already planning to participate in the next edition. Of course, the focus on Italian wine is the greatest value of the event: there is no better place to find such a multifaceted offer, with so many producers, consortia and associations. Moreover, I also find the numerous tastings organized for professional operators very useful. Certainly it’s a very crowded fair, often also by an audience of enthusiasts, not professionals: I am curious to see if there will be a better filter for admissions. Being a fundamental event for my work, I immediately learned to make appointments with the companies I want to know, otherwise it’s very difficult to be able to talk to the producers, especially the bigger ones. The fair is a very important moment for the promotion of Italian wine abroad, especially for foreign traders who specialize in the products of your country. But companies need to do more: one of the problems I find most often is linked to the fact that many producers speak only Italian, a barrier that is too large and must be overcome. – Kevin Gagnon - snarkywine.com (Germania)

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MARCH 2019

Since 2008 I have attended all the editions; I will also take part in the next one because I believe that Vinitaly is the perfect place to learn about Italian wine: large companies, artisan producers (the FIVI section is great fun), the entire national territory is represented. Among the strengths I would add the large number of collateral events (tastings, masterclasses but also events like Tre Bicchieri by Gambero Rosso, OperaWine, Grandi Marchi Gala Evening, Vinitaly and the City). It’s a unique fair precisely because it takes place in Verona. I do not share the criticisms of some of my colleagues who complain about traffic, or the difficulty of finding lodging. Verona is perfect for the stimuli that are created in the city: when the fair closes, the meetings move into bars, wine bars and restaurants: if the event were held in a larger city, this synergy would be lost.. – JC Viens g ra n d e passione.com (Hong Kong)

CHARTS

2019 ANTEPRIMA FIERE In 20 cities (and 25 wine shops) we tasted 72 labels of the new vintages (and the great classics) of 36 wineries showcasing their products at international fairs from Prowein to Vinitaly by Stefania Annese and William Pregentelli – art by Gaia Niola

We tasted the new labels and vintages that some of the most dynamic and important Italian wineries selected by the Italian Wine Guide 2019 will be presenting at international fairs, from Prowein in Düsseldorf to Vinitaly in Verona. “Anteprima Fiere” is the initiative promoted by Gambero Rosso to bring the public closer to quality drinking in the best wine bars in Italy. An itinerant tasting that each year involves the largest and most historic wine bars in Italy from Rome, Naples, Turin to Bari, Milan and Florence to Venice and Lecce. There are 20 cities involved and 36 wineries proposed in rotation with their 72 wines, including premier labels and successful classics. In every tasting the multiplicity of ways and styles that the diﬀerent terroirs and the many grapes are able

GAMBERO ROSSO

to express are highlighted, by showing the many faces of Italian wine. The leit motif of the whole tasting is the quality of these promising new vintages that, despite the short aging in the bottle, prove to have interesting promising flavours and aromas. Equally appreciable and recognizable are the freshness of the South Tyrolean whites and the elegance of the Pinot Nero, the power of wines with long aging and the sunny character of the whites from the Islands. Here is the description of the companies, the wine tasting notes and the review of the wine shops involved in Anteprima. On the following pages you will find the cellars and related wines on the left, in the right column the wine shops hosting the tastings.

MARCH 2019

2019 ANTEPRIMA FIERE

CASCINA ALBERTA

Barbaresco Giacone ‘16

The notes of red fruit mingle amidst surprising hints of cinnamon; in the mouth, the protagonist is the tannin, thick and of good grain.

Barbera d’Alba Sup. Tres ‘16

Blackberries, blueberries, red fruits: the bouquet that anticipates a bold sip, supported by an adequate tannic support and acid freshness.

BEL COLLE fraz. Castagni, 56 - Verduno (CN) belcolle.eu In 2015 brothers Carlo and Franco Pontiglione and Giuseppe Priola accepted the Bosio Family Estates offer. The wine heritage extends between Langa, Roero, Asti and Monferrato, but the vineyards also insist on the territories of La Morra, Treiso and Barbaresco.

Langhe Nas-Cëtta ‘18

It has beautiful hints of flowers and tropical fruit; then revealing a mineral and harmonious soul.

Barbera d’Asti Sup. Nuwanda ‘16

Accurate in the notes of red fruits combined with freshness and almost balsamic; in the mouth the lively tannin gives a bit of contrast to the casual sip.

GOZZELINO s.da Bricco Iu, 7 - Costigliole d’Asti (AT) gozzelinovini.com The Gozzelinos began cultivating the Costigliole d’Asti vineyards in 1886 when the lands were owned by the Asinari marquises, great wine producers of the area. The family took possession of the vineyards in 1914 and began to expand the winery; today there are 25 hectares of vineyards owned.

Moscato d’Asti Bruna ‘18

Pleasant fruity sensations follow white rose petals and wisteria; on the palate the sweetness is wisely measured.

Barbera d’Asti Sup. Sergio ‘15

Autumn notes merged with traces of roots, then light rose petals, a bit of ripe strawberry; tense and dry mouth.

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MARCH 2019

Turin

Piedmont

ENOTECA RABEZZANA

via Alba, 5 - Treiso (CN) - calberta.it Francesco and Luca Guernani have, in addition to a beautiful farm, 9 hectares of vines that they cultivate with extreme attention towards the environment. Here they produce mainly red wines typical of the Langhe, all processed according to the dictates of organic production.

via San Francesco d’Assisi 23c osteriarabezzana.it The Rabezzana family has an ancient connection with the world of wine, a relationship that was born in the early 1900s when Luigi opened an emporium in the city to sell his wines. Today’s wine shop, in the central Via San Francesco d’Assisi, is only the latest act of this long history. More than a thousand labels including Italian and foreign wines, small local producers and big names, in addition to selected liquors and quality beers. And if this were not enough, the family also runs a restaurant that offers intelligently revisited Piedmontese dishes.

ROSSORUBINO via Madama Cristina 21 rossorubino.net Choosing from around 1,600 labels with particular attention to the production of Piedmontese and international wineries (mainly French and New Zealander) - could be complicated. Fortunately, there are Andrea and Edoardo and their staff to dispel any doubts. There is also an interesting gastronomic offer and a menu that is always in transformation, even between lunch and dinner. Courses and in-depth workshops to learn about the thousand faces of the wine are arranged throughout the year.

CHARTS

F.LLI MOLINO via Ausario, 5 - Treiso (CN) - www. molinovini.com Vitality and desire for experimentation in the Molino family winery, which has 16 hectares mainly planted with nebbiolo, barbera and arneis. The company was founded in 1991, when Virginio Molino bought a small parcel in Treiso.

Piemonte Rosso Selvaggia ‘18

Beautiful aromatic profile: small black berries, very fragrant; a red played on freshness, with a slender but tasty sip.

Barbaresco Teorema ‘16

LE STRETTE via Le Strette, 1f - Novello (CN) lestrette.com The Daniele brothers started quietly twenty years ago with very small productions, which expanded over time, today the offer exceeds 20,000 bottles per year. The production is characterized by clear and territorial wines that feature the peculiarities of the Cuneo area.

Langhe Nas-Cëtta del Comune di Novello Pasinot ‘16

Reminiscent of citrus and mountain herbs. Savoury on the palate with good aging potential.

Barolo Bergera - Pezzole ‘14

Cru from the municipality of Novello with hints of red fruit and tobacco; the mouth is powerful with thick tannins, inserted in a fine pulp.

ENOTECA DELLA FOCE

Genoa

Small black fruits, spicy sensations, floral nuances, a slight trace of licorice; in the mouth the tannin is exuberant. A Barbaresco table companion

via A. Rimassa, 143 enotecadellafoce.com The wine shop takes its name from the neighborhood where it opened its doors about seventy years ago. The Pinasco family has managed it since 2013, making it a point of reference for wine and liqueur enthusiasts. Yes, because in addition to the approximately 600 labels from Italy and abroad, with a large presence of French bubbles, the wine shop offers a wide selection of spirits and liqueurs, around 300 references. Oils, gourmet foods, confectionery products and craft beers complete the range. Meetings and tastings are periodically organized with the producers.

Lombardy

fraz. Camponoce, 39a - Canneto Pavese (PV) giorgi-wines.it Belonging to the Giorgi family this is one of the largest wineries in the Oltrepò that always maintained devotion mainly to wine in bottles rather than sold in bulk. Under the impetus of the volcanic Fabiano, son of Antonio, assisted by his sister Eleonora and his wife Ileana, the winery is increasingly focusing on highlevel bottles.

OP Pinot Nero Brut M. Cl. 1870 ‘14

Smells of peach, apricot, anise, very fine bubbles and long in the finish.

OP Pinot Nero Brut M. Cl. Gianfranco Giorgi ‘15

It has a beautiful nose of citrus and candied orange; fine bubbled, and beautiful personality.

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MARCH 2019

Milan

WINERIA

GIORGI

piazza Carlo Caneva, 4 wineria.it A “transparent” space (because of the beautiful light that floods in) that immediately focused on good wines with small mark-ups. This was the brainchild of Stefano Rimassa, a former journalist who in 2012 decided to devote himself full time to his passion. A shop but also a wine bar where special evening events alternate, tasting courses, aperitifs, all sold at reasonable prices. And there is also a “wineria school” to learn the basics. With the summer season the terrace opens up.

2019 ANTEPRIMA FIERE

BOSCO LONGHINO

Riesling ‘18

The 2018 version is fresh and varietal, with hints of green apple and white flowers. In the mouth it reveals a beautiful freshness.

Gaio Brut

The 2018 version is fresh and varietal, with hints of green apple and white flowers. In the mouth it reveals a beautiful freshness.

via Heiligenberg, 2 - Nalles/Nals (BZ) kellerei.it Nals Margreid is one of the smallest cooperatives in the province of Bolzano, thanks to the collaboration of around 150 members who cultivate vineyards scattered throughout the territory. Such a fragmentation of the vineyard park allows Harald Schraffl to exploit the best exposures and altitudes for each cultivar.

A.A. Pinot Bianco Sirmian ‘17

A Pinot Bianco that wins for the freshness of its aromas, as for a dry and dynamic sip.

A.A. Pinot Nero Jura Ris. ‘16

Scents of cherry emerge clearly from the glass; likewise in the mouth, where class and elegance emerge, both in the tannic component and in the management of the oak.

Veneto

CONTE COLLALTO via XXIV Maggio, 1 - Susegana (TV) cantine-collalto.it The winery of Isabella Collalto De Croÿ is one of the greatest Venetian realities: a company that extends for many hectares close to the Treviso Pre-Alps, alternating vineyards and pasture, arable land and woods, in a continuous succession of hills.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Gaio ‘18

The nose is all played on a clear scent of golden apple with a fresh herbaceous background; extra dry that plays the card of great drinkability.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Rive di Collalto Brut Isabella ‘17

The nose is all played on a clear scent of golden apple with a fresh herbaceous background; extra dry that plays the card of great drinkability.

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MARCH 2019

via Friuli, 15 enoclubmilano.com Without beating around the bush too much, we’re talking about one of the best wine bars in the city, for many years a beacon for all the Milanese oenophiles and beyond. All the credit goes to the Malfassi family which, thanks to their passion and experience, provides a service that has always satisfied many customers. Here you can find thousands of wines that well represent the entire national territory and a part of France also with many interesting vintages. To complete the offer are gastronomic goodies for sale and a dense calendar of events and tastings.

OSTERIE MODERNE

Campodarsego (PD)

Alto Adige

NALS MARGREID

Milan

ENOCLUB

fraz. Molino Marconi Santa Maria della Versa (PV) bosco-longhino.it A long family history that starts from the founder Edoardo Faravelli in 1895, and then continues, generation after generation, up to brothers Marco and Antonio Faravelli. In 2008, they parted ways and Marco Faravelli, who remained in the historic headquarters of Molino Marconi, gave the place its current name.

via Bassa Seconda, 18 osteriemoderne.it Osterie Moderne is a restaurant, enoteca and wine bar, a container of pleasures for the palate, where wine lovers can stop to eat traditional dishes or buy a good bottle of wine. The restaurant was established with the intention of providing an alternative dining where the ritual of conviviality could be celebrated and respected from the first moment the customer walks in. The wine list also offers more than 500 labels of both Italian and foreign origin and an excellent quality/price ratio. The offer of Champagne and Italian sparkling wines is also wide. And for those who wish to linger for aperitivo, in addition to a good glass it’s also possible to taste quality meats and cheeses and the special pizza.

CHARTS

via Foro Boario, 20 - Valdobbiadene (TV) valdo.com For decades Valdo has been one of the most successful brands in the world of Conegliano Valdobbiadene. As a tradition, in this corner of Veneto, the grapes coming from the owned vineyards contribute to the production but also those produced by a large number of small winemakers.

Valdobbiadene Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza Brut Nature ‘17

Owns elegant aromatic baggage, where the white fruit caresses the floral and citrus notes. The palate is dry and long-limbed. The nose moves between yellow fruits and lemon cream; the mouth is broad and voluminous.

b.go Gortani, 2 - Cervignano del Friuli (UD) obiz.it Obiz is a small village near Aquileia, where the company managed since 1997 by Yunmani Bergamasco is located. Twenty-five hectares of vines in a single body surround the winery, which dates back to 1718. Both whites and reds are of excellent workmanship boast more than adequate prices.

Natissa Bianco ‘17

It has citrus and floral nuances, balsamic and flint notes; it closes in a persistent sip.

Friuli Aquileia Rosso Natissa ‘16

First the red fruits, then a pleasant hint of tobacco. In the mouth all these sensations chase each other before closing on a fresh and continuous finish.

ZORZETTIG fraz. Spessa - s.da Sant’Anna, 37 Cividale del Friuli (UD) - zorzettigvini.it In Spessa di Cividale the name Zorzettig is linked to wine. Several wineries descend from the same family, but only Cavalier Giuseppe has maintained the brand. Today the younger generations take care of it: Annalisa is a dynamic entrepreneur, her brother Alessandro instead prefers the quiet of the vineyards.

FCO Ribolla Gialla ‘17

It combines floral scents and delicate lemon notes while in the mouth the palate alternates flavour and citric charge.

FCO Malvasia Myò ‘17

Magnificent bouquet: rose, gooseberry, mango, peach and a slight spicy sensation. In the mouth it’s intensely juicy.

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MARCH 2019

ENOTECA GRADO 12 largo Carducci, 12 enotecagrado12.it The wine shop opened its doors in 1929 and all the wine lovers around Trento sooner or later have passed by here. The reason is simple: Grado 12 offers a truly vast assortment of labels, wines and bubbles, but also distillates, grappas, liqueurs, as well as an excellent selection of extra virgin olive oils and the addition of great artisan products of sweet and savoury gastronomy. Everything is offered with experience, competence and passion.

ENOTECA ITALIANA

Bologna

Friuli Venezia Giulia

OBIZ

calle San Rocco, 3961 vinusvenezia.it The space is small but the welcome is grand. Opened in 2015, this is a modern “bacaro” in the Frari area, perfect for a quick aperitivo or dinner, or simply to have a chat before a glass. The wine list, with wines from Veneto and Friuli in the lead, accompanies local gastronomic specialties and traditional cuisine in a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere.

Trento

Valdobbiadene Brut M. Cl. Numero 10 ‘16

Venice

VINUS VENEZIA

VALDO SPUMANTI

via Marsala, 2 enotecaitaliana.it In 1972, two lovers of quality food and wine gave birth to this multi-faceted shop. Over the years, Claudio Cavallari and Marco Nannetti have created a very wide and accurate offer of wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, grappa, Cognac, whiskey, calvados, rum. Not only a retail of great wines, but a true temple of taste where you can find homemade pastas, typical sweets, jams, sauces, pickles and delicacies from the territory of Italy. The bar inside allows you to taste many of the delicacies for breakfast, aperitivo or lunch.

2019 ANTEPRIMA FIERE

CANTINE RIUNITE & CIV

Valdobbiadene Rive di Colbertaldo Brut ‘17 Maschio dei Cavalieri

Shows off the whole repertoire of the grape: white flowers, white peach, aromatic herbs; fresh mouth, with a pleasant citrus verve.

Ottocento Nero Lambrusco Albinea Canali

Forest fruits, violets and cyclamen; in the mouth fresh and fragrant fruit.

via Moretta, 58 - Borgonovo Val Tidone (PC) cantinavaltidone.it Established in 1966, this cooperative winery now processes the grapes of about 300 members spread over 10 different municipalities (Borgonovo, Castel San Giovanni, Ziano, Pianello, Nibbiano, Caminata, Piozzano, Agazzano, Gazzola, Pecorara) for a total of 1,200 hectares of hilly vineyards.

Gutturnio Bollo Rosso Ris. ‘15

Cherry jam, vanilla nuances, a little rustic but pleasant; mouth has very thick tannins.

Gutturnio Frizzante 50 Vendemmie ‘18

Blackberry and rose, slight peppery note; mouth on the same register, slightly tannic with some earthy hints.

Tuscany

FATTORIA CASABIANCA fraz. Casciano di Murlo loc. Casabianca - Murlo (SI) The Fattoria Casabianca is located near Murlo, in the province of Siena. We are in the southernmost hills of the Chianti Colli Senesi, where the weather conditions are generally warmer than the rest of the area. The style of the wines, which are refined both in barriques and in large barrels, favours drinkability and finesse.

Chianti Colli Senesi Ris. ‘13

Black berries, fleshy nuance, spices; rhythmic gustative progression and beautiful smoothness.

Vermentino ‘18

Nose with salty notes, yellow flowers and aromatic herbs; sapid mouth, very fresh, with a pleasant citrus trail.

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MARCH 2019

Piazza del Salvatore, 7 enotecavanni.it A true temple of wine. The overall atmosphere leaves wine enthusiasts speechless, both for the suggestive beauty and for the quantity of perfectly preserved bottles on the shelves. An impressive number of wines is constantly selected: great labels, both for “connoisseurs” and emerging ones, both Tuscan and Piedmontese, and a targeted representation of other Italian regions (but there are references from abroad) sold at very honest prices. The place also manages to satisfy the needs of those who are passionate about grappas and spirits.

ALESSI – DAL 1952

Florence

CANTINA VALTIDONE

Lucca

Emilia Romagna

ENOTECA VANNI

via G. Brodolini, 24 - Campegine (RE) riuniteciv.com 2,600 members, 3,500 hectares of vineyards, 16 associated wineries: numbers that make this group the first in Italy in terms of turnover and bottles produced. In recent years the Riunite were able to start a selection of the best grapes with which high level wines are produced.

via delle Oche, 27 enotecaalessi.it If you find yourself walking around the Duomo, a stop at Alessi is a must for some good food and wine shopping. The entrance, between vaults and wooden beams, is used as a tasting room, and if you have some time on your hands, you can sit down calmly and request a good glass of wine. Browsing the shelves, you’ll find quality spirits, labels of Italian and overseas wines and many bottles of whiskey and Cognac. The cellar, consisting of an area of about 300 square meters, has a constant temperature monitored especially for storing wine.

CHARTS

CERALTI via dei Ceralti, 77 Castagneto Carducci (LI) - ceralti.com The small Bolgheri wineries keep the pace with the big brands in the area. Ceralti is an example of this, in our opinion among the most clear and brilliant. The Rutili family is at the helm of the company, personally invested in every stage of the production and commercial process.

Nubia Rosato ‘18

From cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese, it shows off aromas of rose and pomegranate. On the palate it is fresh and of good concentration.

Bolgheri Vermentino ‘18

CINCIANO loc. Cinciano, 2 - Poggibonsi (SI) cinciano.it In a border area between Florence and Siena, the Fattoria di Cinciano is owned by the Garrè family. The estate extends for more than 130 hectares between Barberino Val d’Elsa and Poggibonsi, where the vineyards meet medium-textured soils rich in backbone.

Chianti Cl. Gran Selezione ‘15

Good material and in the perfumes it owns a spicy background prevailing with earthy hints. Continuous gustatory progression.

Chianti Cl. ‘17

PODERE LA REGOLA loc. Altagranda - s.da reg.le 68 km 6,400 Riparbella (PI) - laregola.com One hundred years ago the Nuti family bought land in the municipality of Riparbella, but only in the last decades––thanks to the commitment of Luca, an oenologist, and Flavio––the small family business has turned into a veritable winery. Installation of new vineyards and careful checks on the production chain have just preceded the total organic conversion of all the land.

La Regola ‘16

It still needs to stretch out well but already offers beautiful fruity sensations, some sweet wood scents; dense tannin but with a nice grain.

Vallino ‘15

Red flowers and balsamic fragrances, slight spicy note; fresh and agile mouth, with a good tannic component.

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MARCH 2019

via Cimabue, 9r enotecavignoli@gmail.com Vignoli is a reference point for Florentine and non-Florentine oenophiles. The owners are ready to accompany you to the shelves in search of your favourite label or simply advise you which one to match with your dinner. There are many wineries present at this Via Cimabue venue, from the products of the largest Italian wineries to those from across the Alps, with particular attention to the wines of French and Chilean maisons. And those looking for high-level spirits will be able to buy rum, whiskey and grappa.

TRIMANI

Rome

Ripe cherry, a touch of wilted rose, mouth played on a fruity register, with tannin giving chiaroscuro and complexity to the sip.

ENOTECA VIGNOLI

Florence

Nose with salty veins, enriched with lashes of aromatic herbs; in the mouth it is fresh, sapid, with the final still entrusted to aromatic herbs.

via Goito, 20 trimani.com Labels from vineyards around the world, although most of them represent the Italian territory with all its potential. This is something the Trimani family knows well, and who have been wine merchants since the early 19th century. Here good wine for everyday consumption lives alongside more precious bottles, for rarity and price. At the wine bar the bottles have the same price as on the shelf and alongside a revisited and dynamic local cuisine. Quality food products complete the offer.

CHARTS

LA BIAGIOLA

Maremma Toscana Sangiovese Alideo ‘16

It reveals aromas of plum jam and balsamic whispers. The taste is sapid and decidedly drinkable.

Maremma Toscana Vermentino Matan ‘17

Jasmine, exotic fruits and sage make up an aromatic profile that anticipates a fresh and tasty mouth, with salty tones.

PODERI FIRENZE loc. L’Abbandonato - Arcidosso (GR) poderifirenze.it In 2003 the winery’s activity began in a place of uncontaminated charm. In addition to Sangiovese, which is the main grape variety, ciliegiolo and syrah are also cultivated, which provide excellent results in terms of adaptability to the terroir.

Maremma Toscana Ciliegiolo Sciresa ‘17

Made from ciliegiolo in purity, the wine boasts tones of blackberry and cherry on the nose; lively, full and rich body.

Montecucco Sangiovese Sottocasa ‘15

Intense and pleasantly warm, it has mature but well-centered aromas and a rich, but not lacking in flavor and rhythmic progression.

ALFONSO BALDETTI loc. Pietraia, 71a - Cortona (AR) baldetti.com The company was one of the first to bottle in the early seventies after Mario Baldetti, Alfonso’s father, had replanted the vineyards. The wine produced was then sold to traders until the White Vergine della Valdichiana denomination was born, which also marked the beginning of the production of bottled wine.

Cortona Syrah Crano ‘15

Highlights a floral and fruity nose. In the mouth the sip is delicious and immediate.

Cortona Sangiovese Marius ‘16

It has inviting hints of fruit and spices, a soft structure, a long and relaxed finish.

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Rome

LUCANTONI

fraz. Sovana - loc. Pianetti - Sorano (GR) labiagiola.it Young company located in the Sovana area, next to a multi-layered archaeological park by the same name. The wines are balanced and harmonious both in taste and flavours and are obtained from selected Vermentino, Sangiovese and Alicante grapes.

largo Vigna Stelluti, 33 webdivino.it The offer has few rivals in Rome; we are talking about something like 3,000 labels, coming from Italy, France, but also from the countries of the New World. The wine shop was founded in 1961 by Silvio, Marino and Francesco, who together decided to offer to their customers the best bottles of the world’s wine heritage. Today you can also buy spirits, with a special focus on the best Italian grappas, brandies and liqueurs. To top it all, extra virgin olive oils, vinegars, and high quality food specialties. It’s possible to taste the labels on display accompanying them with cured meats and cheeses.

IMPERATORI piazza Marino Armellini, 15 imperatori.biz A beautiful place located near Piazza Bologna, which guarantees a valid welcome at different times of the day. This is the brainchild of Aida Capone and Roberto Imperatori, and opens its doors early in the morning with the bar; but is also a delicatessen with excellent products and supplies ingredients for the grazing boards and sandwiches offered throughout the day, especially at aperitivo time paired with a well-made cocktail or a glass of wine among those sold by the glass. The wine shop deserves a separate discussion, with hundreds of references between Italy and abroad. On the shelves, in addition to bottles, also chocolate, oils, sweets, artisan pasta, preserves and tableware.

2019 ANTEPRIMA FIERE

RIDOLFI

Brunello di Montalcino ‘14

Sharp in its cherry notes, slightly spicy, fragrant; elegant mouth, subtle tannins, fresh and agile taste.

Rosso di Montalcino ‘17

Cherry and ripe strawberry, pink, slight hint of blood orange; snappy and fresh with a bit of tannin to contrast the sip.

Marche

VELENOSI loc. Monticelli - via dei Biancospini, 11 Ascoli Piceno - velenosivini.com Angela Velenosi travels around the world, tirelessly. An enormous sacrifice but that pays off with a strong export attitude. In return, the winery receives important signals in all languages from customers, distributors and the dining world.

Offida Pecorino Rêve ‘17

An explosion of tropical fruits, citrus and spicy notes, the mouth is elegant; the sip shines for thickness and intensity.

Rosso Piceno Sup. Roggio del Filare ‘15

It has intact fruit aromas and reveals a complex stratification; the sip is powerful, perfectly blending alcohol volume and tannic richness.

Abruzzo

TENUTE BARONE DI VALFORTE c.da Piomba, 11 - Silvi Marina (TE) baronedivalforte.it The various vineyard blocks belonging to the Soricchio family, owner of the Baron’s feud of Valforte for hundreds of years, are distributed among the municipalities of Atri, Mutignano di Pineto, Casoli and Silvi Marina. Platform declined in a rich assortment based on Trebbiano, Pecorino, Passerina and Montepulciano.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ‘16

Nose with a dark aromatic profile and black fruits melted with herbaceous sensations; mouth has thick tannins.

Abruzzo Pecorino ‘18

Expressive aromatic profile ranging from subtle nuances of herbs to lemon pulp, with some floral lashings; in the mouth it’s intense.

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Porto San Giorgio (FM) Napoli

ENOTECA PASQUALE GIULI

loc. Mercatali, 1 - Montalcino (SI) ridolfimontalcino.it The Ridolfi are part of a branch of an ancient Tuscan family from 1290. Today the family owns two estates, Ridolfi in Montalcino and Tenuta Rocchetta in Larciano: over 54 hectares of land, of which 21 are vineyards, where the main grape is certainly the Sangiovese.

via Annibal Caro, 1 0734 687108 Pasquale Giuli moved his business to the spacious room in the center of Porto San Giorgio a few years ago (still along the Adriatic State Road, however). Inside is a summary of his long career as a sales representative and enoteca owner. On the long shelves runs the best of winegrowing Italy but good odds are reserved for France (large presence of Champagne), Germany and suitable winegrowing areas. Part of the shelves are dedicated to Italian craft beers as well as an fine section dedicated to spirits. Artisan foods such as jam, chocolate and oil from small craft productions are also available for purchase.

SCAGLIOLA via San Pietro a Maiella, 15 winebarscagliola.it This ancient shop was founded in 1940 thanks to the tenacious passion of Nicola Scagliola for quality products. Today the third generation is in charge of preserving the flavours of tradition and the ancient recipes used for the confectionery production. Located in the historical center of Naples, near the Conservatory, where it’s possible to taste artisan pastries like sfogliatella, babà, or buy national labels, French bottles, craft beers, Champagne, sparkling wines, whiskey, rum and vodka.

CHARTS

c.da Novella, 51 - Rocca San Giovanni (CH) cantinasangiacomo.it A historic social cellar in the province of Chieti, San Giacomo brings together around 200 suppliers and a significant heritage of vineyards distributed over various municipalities around Rocca San Giovanni. A reality that has grown over the last few years thanks to the entire proposal, focused on typical Abruzzo cultivars.

Casino Murri Pecorino ‘18

Pecorino has great determination: Mediterranean scrub and scents of cedar. Sapid trail on the palate and rhythmic sip.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Casino Murri 14° Ris. ‘15

Typical in its dark notes, it’s characterized in the mouth by an important tannic presence that gives structure and solidity to the sip.

AGRIVERDE

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riseis ‘17

A typical and fragrant Montepulciano, with aromas of cherry jam. The sip is full and powerful.

Riseis Pecorino ‘18

It has a musky and flowery taste and a nice freshness on the palate.

COLLE MORO loc. Guastameroli - via del Mare, 35/37 Frisa (CH) - collemoro.it Certainly not an emerging reality for a cooperative winery active since 1961, which brings together over 650 members in the Teatine Hills. The vineyards are located in fifteen municipalities in southern Abruzzo, and extend to the slopes of the highest mountains inland.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Mila ‘15

Sweetly ripe in the fruity plant, supported by an acid skeleton and non-angular tannins.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Club ‘18

Raspberry and wild strawberries come together to create the bouquet of this cherry which in the mouth reveals itself to be agile and nimble and pleasantly citrusy.

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ENOTECA MERCADANTE piazza Amedeo, 16a enotecamercadante.com An excellent reference point in the city for lovers of fine drinking. Stefano and Francesco Continisio, wine lovers and tireless researchers of the best Italian and foreign wine productions, manage this well-stocked wine shop. Hundreds of bottles and a decent selection of spirits fill the shelves of the room scattered among the various rooms. It’s appropriate to say wine and beyond, since this beautiful wine shop offers specialties of the Neapolitan tradition. As well as cured meats and a wide selection of vinegars, oils, preserves, rice and homemade pasta. In short, a safe address for all fans, gourmets and even specialists in the sector.

DE PASCALE

Avellino

loc. Caldari - via Stortini, 32a Ortona (CH) - agriverde.it Among the first Italian companies to adopt agro-compatible protocols and to design their own structures (winery, relais, spa) according to the dictates of bio-architecture, Agriverde has been in the Di Carlo family for almost two centuries. An adventure that finally took off in the 1980s with the direction of Giannicola and the expansion of the vineyard park.

Naples

SAN GIACOMO

corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 205 depascale.it Not just a bar: located along a main thoroughfare, it’s possible to buy excellent Italian and foreign wines, liqueurs and gastronomic products in the part of the wine shop located on the lower floor, expertly managed by Francesco De Pascale and always well stocked. The upper floor, on the other hand, is the realm of the coffee shop and artisan confectionery, starting from the creamy espresso with a lingering aftertaste, the cappuccino with well frothed foam, the soft leavened croissants for breakfast, without forgetting the cake display case. For the aperitivo, there’s food to pair with the glasses.

2019 ANTEPRIMA FIERE

MARISA CUOMO

Costa d’Amalfi Furore Rosato ‘18

This Rosato, made from aglianico and piedirosso, has a bouquet characterized by sensations of cherry and pomegranate that anticipate a fruity and long-lasting drink.

Costa d’Amalfi Furore Bianco ‘18

CASA SETARO via Bosco del Monaco, 34 - Trecase (NA) www.casasetaro.it A true home winery to witness the strong bond that exists between the Setaro family and the Neapolitan wine culture. We are in Trecase, a small town at the foot of Mount Vesuvius, where the vines rest on a soil of lava stone and lapilli

Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso Don Vincenzo ‘14

Cherry and geranium come together on a pleasantly smoky background. In the mouth the tannin supports a mineral, coherent and austere sip.

Pietrafumante Caprettone M. Cl. ‘15

Ripe yellow fruit and fruit salad on the nose; wide and fragrant mouth, unexpectedly fresh, pleasant.

via Calefati, 16h enotecacucumazzo.net Since 1999 one of the most valid points of reference for city lovers of good drinking and certainly one of the most valid wine addresses in the region. Thousands of references from all the Italian regions and from the main foreign countries, with many references coming from France. The assortment of grappas, Cognacs and Champagne is also vast, not to mention the sweet and savoury foods.

ENOTECA ANELLI

Brindisi

Falanghina and Biancolella blend, reminiscent of thyme and marjoram scents; the mouth is full and fresh

Bari

Campania

CUCUMAZZO

via G. B. Lama, 16/18 - Furore (SA) marisacuomo.com Furore is a small jewel in the heart of the Amalfi Coast, one of the most inaccessible for the cultivation of the vine, but which has an oenological potential that few places can boast. This is where the Marisa Cuomo winery was born in 1980.

via Filomeno Consiglio, 6 delizieanelli@libero.it Managed for half a century by the same (namesake) family, the wine shop is located under the arcades in the historic centre of the city. A welcoming place, arranged on two floors, with a rich selection of prestigious regional, Italian and foreign wines, among which are renowned Champagne brands. There’s also a rich choice of sweet and savoury food specialties. On the lower floor, which is large in size, interesting tasting evenings and meetings with the producers are organized periodically.

Puglia

CANTINA SAN DONACI via Mesagne, 62 - San Donaci (BR) cantinasandonaci.eu The Cooperative Winery of San Donaci is one of the oldest in the region and has a production focused on wines from traditional Apulian grapes, such as Negroamaro, Primitivo and Black Malvasia di Brindisi. The territory of San Donaci is located within the Salice Salentino denomination of origin.

Salice Salentino Rosato Anticaia ‘18

From negroamaro and black malvasia, it presents classic hints of red fruits and Mediterranean scrub. Fresh and balanced palate.

Salice Salentino Rosso Anticaia Ris. ‘15

The 2015 version is spicy and of good structure, rich in body and thick.

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Lecce

WINE&MORE via XXV Luglio, 3 wineemore.it Marco Guido, the owner, is a true enthusiast, and it shows. In December 2017 it changed address (previously located on via Matteotti), and it has earned a well-deserved reputation among the wine lovers of the city. His selection speaks for itself: Italy and the world’s best areas, non-obvious choices for each portfolio, more spirits, beers, local food specialties and much more. Home deliveries and ecommerce service. The calendar of periodic tastings is interesting (reservation required).

CHARTS

CANTINE PAOLO LEO

Renée Organic ‘18

Blend of chardonnay, fiano and sauvignon, this is a wine with aromas of exotic fruit and mint. In the mouth it’s persistent and juicy.

Grècìa Negroamaro Rosé ‘18

Smells of red fruits and cherry. On the palate it’s fresh and smooth, characterized by a fruit that binds well to a savoury vein.

Sicily

CVA CANICATTÌ

Sicilia Rosso Diodoros ‘15

Ripe black cherry, jam, fragrant mouth, incisive tannin, a touch of flavour lends vivacity to the sip.

Sicilia Grillo Fileno ‘18

It explodes on the nose with floral and tropical fruit sensations. On the palate it is fresh and smooth.

FAZIO WINES fraz. Fulgatore - via Capitan Rizzo, 39 Erice (TP) - faziowines.com The hills on the north-west quadrant of the province of Trapani are the territory where Fazio family has been cultivating vines and producing wine for four generations; the company vineyards fall within the area of the Erice appellation and their altitude varies between 250 and 600 meters above sea level.

Erice Nero d’Avola Torre dei Venti ‘17

It matures in French oak barrels for about ten months: the result is a wine that smells of black berries, with a Mediterranean and harmonious palate.

Erice Grillo Aegades ‘18

Show off elegant orange blossom notes combined with citrus nuances. The mouth is compact, the sip is continuous.

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viale Piemonte, 22 vinoveritasenoteche.it In a couple of years the Giuseppe Lisciandrello wine shop has become a paradise for lovers of the Bacchus nectar. Almost three thousand references: the best from all over the world available at the most honest prices. Italy, France, Champagne and Burgundy in particular, but also labels with an eye to the organic and natural sector. You can choose a glass among the many in the wine cellar, or a bottle from the shelf making it open at the same wine shop price (plus a modest cork fee). In combination, besides cheeses and cured meats of great value, delicious hot and cold dishes of remarkable level, the result of a kitchen that knows its craft. In via Sammartino, only wine shop and the possibility of drinking by the glass.

CUCINA.EAT

Cagliari

c.da Aquilata - Canicattì (AG) cvacanicatti.it An agile and modern cooperative, which can count on vineyards distributed among the hills of the Agrigento region. At the base of the production philosophy there is quality, guaranteed by continuous monitoring on the members’ vineyards, to ensure that a healthy and mature fruit arrives to the wine-making cellars.

Palermo

VINO VERITAS

via Tuturano, 21 - San Donaci (BR) paololeo.it The Cantine Paolo Leo offers a wide range of wines with a modern imprint, which tries to express the varietal characteristics of the traditional Apulian vines, in which the production from the vineyards of the property is accompanied by a collaborative work with trusted winemakers.

Piazza Galilei, 1 shopcucina.it Enoteca, emporium of kitchen utensils, thematic library, cooking school, bistro... the souls of this place are numerous. The concept restaurant by Alessandra Meddi, located on the edge of the historic center of Cagliari, shines more and more in the city’s gastronomic panorama. The kitchen engages in the modern and brilliant reinterpretation of the typical flavours of the territory. Excellent selection of wines with many Sardinian labels and with an open look at all the national and foreign quality production and in greater choice of food specialties, local and not.

2019 ANTEPRIMA FIERE

TENUTE ORESTIADI v.le Santa Ninfa - Gibellina (TP) tenuteorestiadi.it An important reality with estates in the Belìce Valley, located mainly in an area straddling the territories of the municipalities of Gibellina Vecchia, Mazara del Vallo and Segesta, at altitudes ranging from 150 to 500 meters. The entrepreneurial vision expresses the will to valorize above all the typical Sicilian vines.

Sicilia Grillo ‘18

Reminiscent of hay, orange blossom and cedar; body supported by a beautiful sapid trail that gives it persistence and great freshness.

Sicilia Perricone ‘17

Sardinia

MEANA - TERRE DEL MANDROLISAI via Roma, 129 - Meana Sardo (NU) cantinameana.it Meana is a winery whose goal is to bring value to Mandrolisai, a beautiful wine area in which it operates. The healthiness of these districts, protected by the peaks of the Gennargentu, allows a development of the wine production cycle in a completely natural way.

Mandrolisai Parèda ‘15

Herbs and Mediterranean scrub, dark berries; tasty, broad, voluminous mouth with precise tannins.

Mandrolisai Parèda ‘16

The aromatic profile resembles that of 2015, but the feeling is more fresh; the counter-proof reaches the palate, where the Mediterranean character is combined with balsamic sensations.

SIDDÙRA loc. Siddùra - Luogosanto (SS) siddura.com We can certainly define Siddùra as a young company, born a few years ago, but immediately able to establish itself on the market, thanks to quality and a serious and far-sighted entrepreneurial project. The protagonist is undoubtedly the Vermentino di Gallura, produced in three different versions.

Cannonau di Sardegna Fòla Ris. ‘16

Sharp red fruit combined with notes of Mediterranean scrub, very elegant and fascinating; precise and solid mouth, with thin and silky tannins.

Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Maìa ‘16

Offers aromas of herbs, lemon leaf, iodine and yellow fruit; there is also a smoky touch that anticipates a slender sip.

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SIGNORVINO

MI - TO - VR - BO - FI

It has aromas of red fruits and Mediterranean scrub, fruity and lively finish.

via Dante, 15 Milano signorvino.com/it/ negozi/milano-dante via Lagrange, 13 Torino signorvino.com/it/ negozi/torino corso Porta Nuova, 2 Verona signorvino.com/it/ negozi/verona piazza Maggiore, 12/3 Bologna signorvino.com/it/ negozi/bologna via De’ Bardi, 46r Firenze signorvino.com/it/ negozi/firenze Signorvino represents a new format of wine shop - born in 2012 from an idea by Sandro Veronesi, patron of Calzedonia - a reality that looks at the world of oenology in an innovative and modern way with 15 points of sale present in different Italian cities. In the various shops available to all customers there is a wide selection of quality wines, selected from the best Italian producers, renowned companies but also emerging producers. In addition to the purchase it is possible to stop for a gourmet break, tasting regional dishes according to the season. On the site, you will find the full program of tastings and events organized in the various addresses.

MATERA MIRACLE. SASSI AND ANCIENT PEASANT DISHES ARE NOW TRENDY Matera is the stratified portrait of a country that out of the most extreme rural civilization has managed to become one of the Capitals of European Culture for 2019. Saving the past, and actually reviving it and making it vital to this day. And there, in those very cavedwellings inhabited from the Palaeolithic up to the Fifties, today we discover an incredible humanity whose focus on beauty and ancient flavours is the key for the future

words by Sonia Gioia â&#x20AC;&#x201C; images by Pietro Amendolara

STORIES

hame? What a terrible word. We shouldn›t be ashamed of poverty. It happens. Just like luck happens». Gabriella adjusts the shawl made out of mismatched yarn on her head, a headdress of bright colors that crowns her face like a queen of Jerusalem, sublime radiance of 90 plus years. A girl happy with her solid happiness, typical of people who have lived the before and the after, the Sassi stigmatized by Togliatti in the historic visit of ‘48 and the epiphany of the caves finally magnified in the year 2019: Matera capital. Nothing but accidents of life, this and that, «days of hard bread and others of fresh bread,» she mutters while hanging laundry in front of the doorway steps from Piazza Duomo where Sasso Barisano intersects Sasso Caveoso, drawing the silhouette of the city, two wings in which some see the shape of a dove. And the intention of flight. Academic division, actually, for the materani the city divides more simply «in this side and the other». HYPERSTATICITY AND NEIGHBOURS A “miracle of hyperstaticity”, say the urban planning manuals, where Matera is the scholastic model of Pythagorean harmony; resilient architectures where rocks surface and coexists with limestone dwellings, subject to the rules of nature, and even human. «The model, replicated to the nth degree, is neighborhood houses, each forming the side of an ideal square where the fourth side stays open», explain Eleonora Sansone and Antonio Manicone, tour guides who have earned their respective degrees in Cultural Heritage – their knowledge made available to visitors in transit through the city. The neighborhood, therefore. «A module that performs two functions – they explain, both equipped with immense love for

the land of the Sassi – the outer sides of the square constitute an embankment that allows the outflow of rainwater, the internal space instead is a courtyard, structural element of the social framework of Matera: the space where the extended families gathered and mutually supported each other». The chronicles of Eustachio Verricelli (late 16th century) that define it as the “city of opposites”, where the living are under the dead, and the sky is under their feet, are still valid today. Where the distances appear sidereal, optical illusion are given by the verticality and the staggered floors of houses built on the rocky slopes of the “gravina”, and instead only a few steps are required to go from the caves of the Civita and the basilica, up to the necropolis – the Lombard cemetery – on the Malve in the district by the same name, and then down again on the other

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side to the skyline where the wild landscape and the bulk of San Pietro Caveoso hover, all included in one glance and in the same, majestic silence. WORLD HERITAGE SITE All it took was seventy years to jump from the pages of a Neorealist novel to becoming Unesco World Heritage site (1993) and now to the dte of January 19th, 2019, when Matera becomes European Capital of Culture breathing new life and revival; going from damnation to active redemption attended by 6,000 people, each wearing light elements brightening the choreography of the ribbon cut inaugurating “Matera Capitale”. «The data for 2018 is still in development – explains Serafino Paternoster, voice of the Matera-Basilicata Foundation 2019 – but from the 200,000 hotel presences in

MATERA

THE 4 EVENTS DEDICATED TO FOOD CULTURE

EDIBLE ORCHESTRA Where: Auditorium comunale Gervasio When: 10.11.12.13 April Performers Don Pasta and Nick Difino will bring to Matera the Vegetable Orchestra, a unique experiment in the world: a group of musicians playing musical instruments built with seasonal fruit and vegetables from the local market: “A celery, a tomato, a cabbage like none you’ve ever seen, or rather, heard”. In the districts of Matera a widespread laboratory will be set up: “Exactly where the neighborhood developed, one of the fascinating forms of cooperation and solidarity of rural life”.

LA TERRA DEL PANE Where: Fondazione Sassi When: 12 – 20 October The Sassi Foundation has restored one of the oldest ovens in the Sasso Barisano. “The Land of Bread” will animate it, and it will do so in three chapters: with the communal oven and the games of bread, children and teenagers will put their hands in the dough accompanied by the Bread House of Gabrovo. The landscapes of wheat, the representation of the breads, The bread marks are the titles of the rooms of a large temporary exhibition that displays beautiful images of bread making; and then the narration, a full library of books on bread, an anthology of stories about bread and, moreover, a work of research and collection of a dispersed repertoire of propitiatory rites. At the end “The land of bread” will invite everyone to the grand finale, a 15-day Festival held in the days of the wheat harvest.

In Pietro Amendolara’s photos, glimpses of the city, starting from the Sassi, act as a stage for a fundamental element of Matera’s material culture: bread. Monumental loaves with a classic crescent shape and more or less large pieces cut in half (see the photo on page 46) forming two crisp hearts on the outside and soft inside. This bread, which has nally been recognized by the IGP appellation, if stored in its bag can last several days. Originally it was prepared in the Sassi and then brought to bake in public ovens

BREADWAY – LE VIE DEL PANE Where: Quartiere Piccianello When: 31 May – 9 June Breadway is a festival of food and design that traces the supply chain that leads to the preparation of bread. Every day the Piccianello district will come alive rediscovering conviviality, the pleasure of being together through artistic performances, shows, narrative stations, installations, workshops and laboratories. As part of the Breadway festival, bread workshops will offer the opportunity of being together to experience an approach to a wealth of knowledge, flavours and cultural traditions. Bread workshops will be open to all, upon reservation.

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4 MAMMAMIAAA Where: your house, or your friends’ home When: when you want Mammamiaaa is a real and virtual community together. It starts from a family recipe, and the desire to share it. Narrating them (and making them) you can organize a lunch or a dinner to invite family and friends. Organizers select the recipe, establish the number of guests, time and place. It’s important to share everything with photos and videos that will then be shared on social media: to be sent to the Mammamiaaa team. In the spring of 2019 the dinners will be part of a large installation curated by John Thackara, the Atlas of social food. Climax event: a large family dinner in September.

STORIES

4 DISHES DESCRIBING PEASANT COOKING Called poor, implying its lack of animal proteins, but the Lucanian tradition is otherwise rich in flavour, fruit of rural memory, the emptier the larder, the more industrious.

1 Cialledda Leftover soup made with stale bread left to soak, and seasoned with potatoes, onions, wild herbs of the Murgia (mainly yellow asphodel which grows abundant) or turnips.

2 Capriata Commonly eaten at the end of the harvest, celebrated in the middle of summer, this is a super-soup made with wheat, spelt, chickpeas, lentils, beans, cicerchie, broad beans, peas, potatoes and herbs.

3 Pecora in pignata A must among local main courses and typical of the whole Murge area: morsels of sheep meat are stewed over the fire in a terracotta jar with the addition of spousal, celery, tomatoes and salami or soppressata.

4 Strazzate Typically of Matera, these are balls of dough with sugar, cacao, toasted almonds, nutmeg, cinnamon, lemon zest and bitter coffee.

2010 we grew to 480,000 in 2017. All the work during the candidacy phase has made us grow by 160%, increasing hospitality from 2,000 beds to 5,000 in the last year. Not only. Restaurant activities in the last few months has undergone a crazy surge, culminating in the baptism of the first Michelin star in the city, assigned to Vitantonio Lombardo. There’s more. The quality of the architectural and lodging oﬀer has increased: there were no five-star boutique hotels, now there are at least five». The best of the best in regards to the hospitality oﬀer is Sextantio, which deservedly amazed the New York Times, that named it “one of the most extraordinary destinations in the world”, and for the Times “one of the 10 most beautiful hotels on the international scene”. The relais hotel is a philological reconstruction of the caves, chiselled in the very pages from which it all

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began: “those caves are lived in and they all sleep together, men, women, children, animals”, wrote Carlo Levi in his novel “Christ stopped at Eboli.” Same high beds like the straw mattresses of the olden days, fireplaces and furnishings restored with careful anthropologic attention. This means nothing but hands, hammer and chisel. The experience of that misery – is purposely present in the 18 rooms of the “diﬀused hotel” – is the true luxury, the memory, changed. The days of fresh bread after the days of hard bread. THE CHEF AND THE INTELLECTUAL: COMMON CHOICE It’s curious that a cook, Vitantonio Lombardo, and an intellectual like Paolo Verri (the former enfant prodige of the Turin Book Fair, now director of Matera 2019) use the same words to

MATERA

10,000 YEARS OF HISTORY… YET MODERN

8,000 BC – first settlement in the area: Matera is the world’s third oldest city

8TH – 11TH Century – The city becomes a meeting point between East and West in the “rock dwelling civilization” and is populated with monks and other religious figures (counting 150 rock churches)

3,000 – 1,200 BC – The first cave dwellings date back to the Bronze Era 664 – Matera is annexed to the Duchy of Benevento and becomes an actual city

8000 a.C.

3.000 a.C.

600 700

1200 – The cathedral is built, underlining the importance of the Western Church by the Normann rule

1860 – Murder of Count Gattini: the peasant rebellion fuelled by the instigating antiUnion factions. A long period of brigandage ensues

1700 – The Sassi are an example of perfect integration between man and environment. At the end of the century however, the degradation is such that they are considered a “national embarrassment”. The population grows to 15K and the balance thus far kept by the communal family interaction spaces “neighbourhoods,” breaks

1200

TAVERNA RE MANFREDI. NEW OPENING IN THE SASSI

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1945 – Carlo Levi publishes the novel Christ stopped at Eboli

1927 – Matera becomes provincial capital

1700 1800 1900

Craftsmanship, atmosphere, ingredients, Mediterranean Sea, territory. These – and in fact many others – are the key words of a new opening that is preparing to welcome citizens, tourists and art and culture lovers among the Sassi in Matera. In addition to the many restaurants we recommend in this feature, there’s also a new restaurant: Taverna Re Manfredi. The project is the ideal celebration for the twenty years of Cantina Re Manfredi di Venosa, property of the Italian Wine Group. After two decades of winemaking, the winery arrives in the city also focusing on dining. At the stove an expert to keep an eye on: Fabrizio Albini. After working abroad (France and Israel) and working in large Italian hotels, Albini arrived in Matera directly from one of the places that has most intrigued the dining scene of Milan in recent months: The Stage in Piazza Gae Aulenti. The road seems remote from the most futuristic area of Milan to Sasso Caveoso, but it turned out to be quite the opposite for the chef from Brescia who grew up in his grandfather’s tavern raised with Lombard tradition and trained with creativity around the world. The rooms excavated in via Bruno Buozzi in Matera recently opened to the public.

MARCH 2019

1948 – Historical visit of Togliatti in Matera: the “issue of the Sassi” is addressed. In that period stillborns are 463:1000 (4 times the national average)

1954 – De Gasperi signs the special law to evict the Sassi residents

1952 – Alcide De Gasperi visits the city 1956 – First regulatory plan (one of the first in Italy): urban planners and sociologists (including Piccinato, Quaroni and Aymonino) were called to design new neighborhoods for 15,000 displaced persons 1986 – A new law finances the recovery of the Sassi 1993 – The Sassi are declared UNESCO World Heritage Site 2014 – The city is nominated as European Capital of Culture for 2019

2000

STORIES

describe their own opposite existential curve in these places. Says Verri: «Like a wife in her second marriage, after a great disappointment in the city where I was born, where I grew up and where I did the best things in life, Matera welcomed me in its arms while I licked my wounds and gave me enormous freedom of action». Echoes Lombardo: «I decided to close Locanda Severino in Caggiano without anything in my pocket, nor an alternative plan, nor a destination. I decided in terrifying loneliness to go home, in my Lucania. I put everything I had in the project, I was the only one who believed in it. The Michelin star arrived three months after the opening. But above all, arrived an enormous freedom of expression that I have never experienced before and which I can finally exert without brakes, coming out of the comfort zone in which I was forcibly restricted to». The diﬀerence is that the international clientele that arrives in via Madonna delle Virtù is ready to understand; and so are the Materani, at ease now in another dimension, other boundaries, those of fine dining that for THE PHOTOGRAPHER’S EYE The bread of Matera is the protagonist of this journey. I have traveled a long way, visiting places and rediscovering alleys in the historic center. Taking a leap into the past, I imagined housewives kneading bread at home, dealing with shapes and sizes of several kilos. Just as the bakers used to walk “I Sassi” to deliver bread, I imagined that the different loaves of bread, taking life, “went for a walk” around the city. This is why I wanted to define this project as “the path of bread”. – Pietro Amendolara

the City of Stones is a last-minute discovery, a territory never explored before. The avantgarde menu in the Vitantonio Lombardo restaurant bears the name of Matera 2019 and among the dishes of the new era (all modulated on a high-low register, misery and ennobled by the ingredients) a pasta dish with the dedication Per Frank, that is mismatched pasta cooked in capriata soup, prawns and foie gras. A tribute to the memory of Frank Rizzuti, the chef who died five years ago and two months after having lit the very first star on the sky of Lucania with his Cucina del Sud. THE REBIRTH OF AUTHORIAL CUISINE Frank was the first to dare breaking free from tradition. Then a long void, from 2014 until the beginning of 2017, when

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Matera opened its doors to haute cuisine with Michele Castelli and Francesco Russo, in the kitchen and in the dining room at Dimora Ulmo, an art gallery with a restaurant housed in an 18th century building, with panoramic terrace open on the precipice of the Sassi. Breathtaking. Materano of origin, Franciscan (in the sense of the Modena “Osteria”) by adoption, after ten years of daily exercise at the court of Massimo Bottura, Castelli together found “the courage to be myself” on the way home. Pushing his heart beyond the obstacle of the pan-Matera philology, with creations such as oyster risotto, candied ginger and long note at the finish dominated by a sweet sauce with white butter. In times like these dominated by acidity and bitterness, tackling sweetness equally requires an act of courage. Think Nicola Popolizio,

MATERA

MATERA DOC. CELLARS AND GLASSES IN THE VINI D’ITALIA 2019 GUIDE It’s the latest addition to the Lucanian wine scene, but it’s however an important DOC from a territorial point of view. It was founded in 2005 – even though winemaking here dates back to Magna Graecia – and includes the province of Matera with 31 municipalities. Currently 12 wineries are registered in the Consortium. The vines allowed are Sangiovese, Primitivo, Aglianico, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for the Reds; greco and white Malvasia di Basilicata for whites and sparkling wines. Matera Moro Curaffanni Ris. ‘16 Matera Primitivo Akratos ‘15

Battifarano – c.da Cerrolongo, 1 – Nova Siri (MT) battifarano.com The Masseria Battifarano has belonged to the family from which it takes its name for more than five centuries. We are on the Ionian coast of Basilicata, hence the Matera Moro Curaffanni Riserva ‘16 and the Primitivo Akratos ‘15: the former tastes of blackberry and wild cherry, juicy and rich, and ends on the palate with spicy and toasted notes. The Akratos ‘15, on the other hand, has subtle nuances of cinnamon on the nose, it’s soft, fruity and with nice structure. Matera Primitivo I Sassi ‘16

Taverna – c.da Tratturo Regio - Nova Siri (MT) cantinetaverna.wine

chef and owner of Ego, the last place (for the moment) closing the triangle of fine dining in the city. Escaped from Matera after hotel management school to escape the narrowmindedness of smalltown restaurant mentality, nailed to the distant past with no desire to emancipate, soon sous chef to Felix Lo Basso in Milan: «I came back because I had to, because of my father’s illness, but I found a city that was more ready to listen to what I had to say». Like the suggestions connecting East and West that resonate in dishes like Lucanian lamb with apricot and cardamom and Belgian endive: paired to pork and transhumance. BREAD, SYMBOL OF THE CITY Leaving modern cuisine behind, let’s find new frontiers and granitic certainties, like the bread at Pane e Pace.

The Taverna di Pasquale Lunati produces wines based on Aglianico, Greco and Primitivo in the two provinces since 1950. The winery covers 280 hectares, of which only a small part, the most suitable, is dedicated to viticulture. Excellent Primitivo I Sassi ‘16, with hints of red fruits, vegetal nuances on the nose; on the palate it’s juicy and pleasant. Matera Primitivo di San Vito ‘15

Cantine Cifarelli – c.da San Vito Montescaglioso (MT) – cantinecifarelli.it The Cifarelli family boasts a beautiful winery in the Metaponto plain, precisely in Montescaglioso, where it produces a curated range of local wines. A leading figure in the management of the company is Vito Cifarelli, an agronomist and president of the Matera Doc Consortium, who, in 2011, took over the family business and now produces wines from Greco, Primitivo and Aglianico grapes. With aromas of black fruits and coffee, Primitivo San Vito ‘15 has a good body and a pleasant sapid hold. Matera Primitivo Monacello ‘16

Tenuta Parco dei Monaci - c.da Parco dei Monaci Matera – tenutaparcodeimonaci.it Parco dei Monaci is an ancient estate located five kilometers from Matera that has been managed by Rosa Padula and Matteo Trabacca since 2007. As Primitivo specialists, they propose a Monacello ‘16 with an intense and dark profile, with notes of black fruit and licorice: great charm.

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STORIES

MURGIA. BETWEEN ROCKS AND CARDONCELLI Gravines, sinkholes, full and empty spaces intersecting in the same landscape, and above all murex, i.e. sharp rock. That’s, ultimately, what the Murgia is. Where political geography has drawn boundary lines, separations, nature holds together and the mother earth Murgia unites Basilicata and Puglia in perfect sisterhood. Like the two cities of bread, Matera and Altamura, where the difference is in the crust and in the shape rather than in substance. But the oldest of the bakers of which the South keeps memory is in Altamura, the Antico Forno Santa Chiara 1423 (via Luca Martucci 10) which every day produces sckuanéte (literally, ‘overlapped’) or large loaves in the shape of a priest’s hat. Not far from the Pasticceria Monastero Santa Chiara (in via Santa Chiara 7) there is a salespoint for fresh and dry sweets mainly based on almond paste produced by the convent of the Clarisse nuns, shielded in in religious solitary confinement (literally). To be enjoyed, ça va sans dire, with a glass of Padre Peppe produced by the Striccoli brothers (piazza San Giovanni 18), an elixir made with nuts, herbs and spices created in 1832 by the Capuchin father Giuseppe Ronchi: only for strong palates, 42 volumes. Bread and sweets are sold together in the Caffetteria del viale (Viale Regina Margherita 10), where maestro Vincenzo Benvenuto is the giant that makes the difference in the bread baking art of Altamura, the first to employ in his 360° bakery re-milled durum wheat semolina. With surprising results. Another baker, another hand, equally good is Il Pane di Nunzio, as the sign in Via Torino 36 of the mastro Nunzio Ninivaggi reads, fourth-generation breadmaker. And in the Altamura bread trail, of course, are also brothers Vincenzo and Domenico Dambrosio from Il Panettiere di Altamura (via Mura Megalitiche 53), an oven-laboratory that enjoys its own particular fame thanks to the rùcchelo of Altamura (similar to that of Gravina, but with cod instead of salted anchovies): a traditional stuffed focaccia featuring a sweet and sour taste. If the masters bakers honour the tradition as they should, the young chefs push further but without breaking their connection to the territory, including chef Donato Calvi of Calvi restaurant (via Bari 134) that counts among its signature dished “between Murgia and Adriatico”, or the striped Paccheri with turnips, mussels and pecorino. Same basin from which Jakopo Simone draws for his newborn restaurant Gioja (Via Orazio Persio 9) author of a superlocal Fresina with Toritto almond pesto, blue cheese and blueberries. Exploring Murge, of course, must include a pit stop in Gravina, which is a sister of Matera by charm and seduction: the ancient city is perched around the ravine from which it takes its name and all around is dotted with frescoed rock churches and caves. This is where Micotec (sp 230 for Spinazzola km 60,900) has its headquarters, a cooperative in the Murgia agri-food industry: active for 30 years, the members of Micotec have specialized in the cultivation of cardoncelli mushrooms, full-bodied and tasty symbol of Murge (in addition to fresh Shiitake mushrooms: a rarity). The cardoncello mushroom is the king at the table of Raffaele Mercede, chef of Mamma mia (via Civita 59, also in Gravina), a restaurant that offers a splendid view of the ancient Grotte delle Sette Camere. Wild greens, vegetables from nearby gardens and free-range meats make up the basket from which Franco Capozzo, chef of Osteria La Murgiana, draws (via XXIV Maggio 25). The grand tour of Murge cannot but finish (or start with an extraordinary hand-made breakfast) at Gran Caffè Gambrinus (via Matteotti 32), where the star bartender Tommy Colonna towers behind the counter with his mother and sisters, offering the best aperitif of all time, with glocal flavour.

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The Perrone family, bread makers for four generations who have shaped the history of bread making in Matera, has gone through the anthropological mutation that has transformed bread bakeries – the common places where families brought their doughs to be baked, in lacking domestic ovens – in bakeries. Giacinto, a rare example of a husband who acquired his wife Lucia Perrone’s surname, as well as fame and profession, added his own contribution. He knew how to stop time: «The bread we produce today is the bread of the past: sizes of minimum 3 and maximum 10 kilos. A huge mass. Along with the bread of Altamura, which has another shape, this is the only bread that is manipulated before being baked, that is after the rising phase. To manipulate a “cornetto” of ten kilos it takes a special set of hands: it’s the skill of the man who man-

SMALL GUIDE TO THE JOYS OF MATERA IN 24 TIPS

MATERA

Fine Dining VITANTONIO LOMBARDO VIA MADONNA DELLE VIRTÙ, 13 – 0835335475 – VLRISTORANTE.IT FOIE GRAS AND MISMATCHED PASTA, LOBSTER AND WILD HEN. FINE DINING IN THE CAVES, WITH DELUXE AND PEASANT INGREDIENTS DIMORA ULMO PENNINO, 28 – 08351650398 – DIMORAULMO.IT

VIA

RESTAURANT WITHIN AN ART GALLERY AND PANORAMIC VIEWS OF THE SASSI FOR CHEF MICHELE CASTELLI, AFTER A DECADE WITH BOTTURA EGO T. STIGLIANI, 44 – 3929030963 – EGOGOURMET.IT CHEF NICOLA POPOLIZIO RETURNS HOME, A NON PHILOLOGICAL VIA

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TRADITIONAL DISHES IN THE EXACT CENTER OF THE CITY

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IL CASINO DEL DIAVOLO MARTELLA – 0835261986 – ILCASINODELDIAVOLO.IT NOT REALLY IN THE CENTER OF THE CITY, BUT THE HOST FRANCOLINO AND HIS POTATOES BAKED UNDER THE ASHES ARE WORTH THE TREK. POP PRICES AND VIA LA

EASY PARKING

Breakfast

ages to give it this particular shape that allows the dough to store air, giving the bread the necessary push to be able to rise, giving it that typical taste, unique in the world». And thanks to Matera 2019, the rest of the world seems to finally have realized: «The election as Capital has ignited a new interest even on our bread – explains Giacinto – we realize this especially when we participate in events away from home: today, when people read that the bread is from Matera, it’s as if it bears a brand of trust, a credible one». Pause. Giacinto clears his thoughts and resumes: «Regardless of the quality of the bread itself». Yet, in that postillium, there’s an unpronounced fear. Now that the world believes in it blindly, Matera will have to open eyes, the bread man seems to say. Escape from the risk of being swallowed up by the prejudgment in postcard-like fixity, taking care of yourself, caring for your soul.

BAR CAFFÈ TRIPOLI VITTORIO VENETO, 17 – 0835333991 HOMEMADE SWEET AND SAVORY CROISSANTS, HOMEMADE ICE CREAMS AND ABOVE ALL A SOFT AND VELVETY COFFEE LIKE NONE TASTED IN TOWN, IN A HISTORIC BAR IN THE NAVEL-SQUARE OF MATERA PIAZZA

Drinks AREA 8 CASALNUOVO, 15 – 3333369788 – AREA8.IT CAVES, CISTERNS AND A PRIVATE PIAZZA: A FORT OF CREATIVITY AND DESIGN, A WORKSHOP OPEN TO ARTISTS IN TRANSIT, BETWEEN KITCHEN AND COUNTER VIA

ENOTECA DAI TOSI B. BUOZZI, 12 – 0835314029 – ENOTECADAITOSI.IT A WINE BAR IN THE CAVES DESIGNED BY A BELGIAN STUDIO AND TWO PUREBLOODED VENETIAN GYUS AT THE HELM OF A SUPER-STOCKED CELLAR VIA

Bakeries PANE E PACE VIA SANTO STEFANO, 37 – 0835334138 – PANEEPACE.IT THE HISTORY OF MATERA BREAD NOW IN ITS FOURTH GENERATION. WOOD-FIRED OVEN WITH AND LARGE LOAVES

CASA DEL PANE MARTINO DANTE ALIGHIERI 74. TELEFONO 0835 240369 @PANIFICIOMARTINO.IT BREAD OF MATERA, BREAD WITH OLIVES, PIZZAS, TARALLI, FRISELLE AND SPECIAL VIA

MENTION FOR FOCACCIA WITH FRESH TOMATO COOKED ON THE GRIDDLE

LE DELIZIE DI RITA A. PASSARELLI, 7 – 3476960506 – LEDELIZIEDIRITA.BUSINESS.SITE HOME ATMOSPHERE AND SUNDAY DESSERTS: ALMOND PASTE, PEACH CREAM, MARCH 2019CAKE, SHORTBREAD CANNOLI AND THE UNSURPASSABLE RITA CAKE CASSATA VIA

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STORIES

MATERA

CAFFÈ SCHIUMA PANE E PACE

STANO

VITANTONIO LOMBARDO RISTORANTE

EGO GOURMET ORIGINI

Palazzo del Casale

CASA DEL PANE MARTINO

Chiesa di San Biagio

DA ZERO PIZZERIA

TRATTORIA LUCANA SEXTANTIO, LE GROTTE DELLA CIVITA BAR CAFFÈ TRIPOLI

Cattedrale

STUDIO D’ARTE RAFFAELE E CLAUDIA PENTASUGLIA Stazione FAL

Casa Noha

LE DELIZIE DI RITA

MANCINI TIMBRI DEL PANE

IL BUONGUSTAIO STUDIO D'ARTE KERAMOS

Parco Giovanni Paolo II

DIMORA ULMO RISTORANTE I VIZI DEGLI ANGELI

Castello Tramontano

AREA 8 RE MANFREDI FALEGNAMERIA MASSIMO CASIELLO

MATERA TOUR GUIDE

L'ABBONDANZA LUCANA ENOTECA DAI TOSI

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MARCH 2019

MATERA

BAR PASTICCERIA SCHIUMA XX SETTEMBRE, 10 – 0835331862 – PASTICCERIASCHIUMA.COM A PIECE OF THE HISTORY OF THE MATERA TRADITION: TEA ROOM, BARREL VAULTS AND CHOREOGRAPHIC CAKES. BUT ALSO HANDMADE CROISSANTS VIA

AND MIGNON PASTRIES

CAFFETTERIA DEL VIALE

CAFFÈ SCHIUMA T. STIGLIANI, 92 – 0835334283 TITS OF VENUS OR SIGHS, HERE THEY CALL THEM ‘NUN’S BREASTS’ AND

ALTAMURA

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THERE ARE LOCALS READY TO SWEAR THAT NO ONE MAKES THEM QUITE AS GOOD AS

SCHIULA “ABOVE THE VILLA”

Porta Bari

Pizza

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DA ZERO PIZZERIA VIA MADONNA DELLE VIRTÙ, 13 – 08351652369 – COMINCIADAZERO.COM

Palazzo Filo

MOZZARELLA WRAPPED IN MYRTLE BRANCHES, MENAICA ANCHOVIES, SOPPRESSATA DI GIOI, CILENTO PRIDE IN THE PIZZERIA GOURMENT OVERLOOKING THE GRAVINA

Palazzo Municipale Museo Archeologico

PADRE PEPPE

Gelato I VIZI DEGLI ANGELI D. RIDOLA, 36 – 0835310637 – IVIZIDEGLIANGELI.IT THE SUPERB GELATO MADE IN GELATERIA VALERIA VIZZIELLO, IS HIDDEN FROM PLAIN VIEW: “IF IT’S NOT IN THE TYPICAL CARAPINE TUBS, IT’S NOT AUTHENTIC AND ARTISANAL,” SHE WARNS US VIA

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IN THE MIDDLE OF THE EVOCATIVE SETTING OF THE SASSI, THE DELISALUMERIA-ENOTECA OF SAMUELE OLIVIERI AND HIS WIFE ROSA IS A TEMPLE OF LUCANIAN EXCELLENCE

IL PANETTIERE DI ALTAMURA MICOTEC

Where to stay

CALVI RISTORANTE

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Gravina di Puglia

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PUGLIA

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GRAN CAFFÈ GAMBRINUS

VIA

Gravina Sotterranea

THE TRACES OF THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL TRANSFORMATION FROM OVENS TO BAKERIES, WITH THE TRADITION OF BREAD SEALS WITH WHICH PEOPLE USED TO MARK THEIR LOAVES BEFORE BRINGING THEM TO COLLECTIVE OVENS;

OSTERIA LA MURGIANA

AND HERE YOU’LL FIND A GREAT CARPENTER, SKILLED CRAFTSMAN AND

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IL CASINO DEL DIAVOLO

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VIA DELLE

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Matera

STUDIO D’ARTE KÉRAMOS BECCHERIE, 73 – 3277805905 – 3284724787 @STUDIODARTEKERAMOS THE CERAMIC WORKSHOP OF CHRISTIAN ANDRISANI AND ANNA DI CUIA: HERE YOU CAN FIND COLOURFUL HOT AIR BALLOONS, MASKS AND HOMEMADE PIECES OF METAPHYSICAL MATERA CERAMICS. MARCH 2019 VIA DELLE

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ON HIMALAYA IN SEARCH OF EXTREME MOUNTAIN CUISINE One travels to Nepal for many reasons that make it an intriguing emotional destination: the splendor of the Himalayas, the charm of a World Heritage city, the call of adventure in the mountains, the mystical aura of Buddhist and Hindu temples. Among these reasons, however, the cuisine never appears. And itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sad mistake

words by Giorgia Cannarella

STORIES

he gastronomic identity of Nepal is a mix of influences hailing from its bulky neighbors. In short, a culinary calembour mixing together China, India and Tibet. The great variety of ethnic groups (about 125) and the rigid division into caste (officially abolished in 1962, but in fact still present) have however prevented a real codification of Nepalese cuisine and the development of traditions shared throughout the country. Those who travel to Nepal – for example to do the Annapurna Base Trek, a hiking circuit that arrives at the Annapurna base camp, one of the 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalayas – relies on agencies that organize small excursions (as an example, The Ticino Treks is very good) and that don’t lend attention to food itself: in the mountains you eat to gain energy and once back in the city the desire to return to Western flavours is more overbearing than wanting to ex-

1 1. A commercial street of

GLOSSARY Chana masala Crisp chickpeas seasoned with onions and spices. Chow mein Noodles, made with eggs. Dal Bhat Mixed rice dish with lentil soup; almost always seasoned with pickles and vegetables (tarkari: see below) Dhido Buckwheat flour or millet polenta.

Kheer Rice pudding with milk and cardamom Kukhura ko masu Chicken curry Lassi Fermented yogurt beverage. Momo Dumplings (similar to Chinese dumplings) filled with meat or vegetables. Pakoda Spicy pancakes made with chickpea flour and onions.

Roti or Chapatti Also known as atta, it’s a kind of focaccia without yeast and used with all types of food. They can also be of different types.

Bhaktapur (image iviaggidimichele.com) n the opening, the ags that signal the hikers’ camp and in the background the snowy peaks of the Himalayas whose name means “snow

Tarkari Vegetable curry. Thukpa Noodle soup, spinach and vegetables. Tongba Warm millet beer.

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dwelling” and that reaches 8,848 metres above sea level. Until two years ago it was considered (with Everest) the highest peak in the world, later (apparently) beaten by the Chimborazo (Andes) if we consider the height from the center of the earth, and the globe not being a perfectly round sphere (image agenzia Sintesi)

MARCH 2019

NEPAL

PAOLO COGNETTI. «ON HIMALAYA ONE UNDERSTANDS THE SACRED ASPECT OF LIFE » Paolo Cognetti is the recipient of Premio Strega 2017 literature award with his novel Le otto montagne published by Einaudi. In 2018 he published Senza mai arrivare in cima. A journey to the Himalayas, always with the same publisher. How many times have you been to Nepal? Three, and each time I was headed to the mountains. In 2015 in the Annapurna Valley, in 2017 in Dolpo, in 2018 around the Kangchenjunga. I like to go back to a place to get familiarise with it, and I think that with Nepal, the story is going to be a long one. Why did you decide to tell the journey to Dolpo in a book? First of all because I’m a writer! It means thatimportant things that happens to me go into writing: it’s a way of reminiscing about it, of meditating on experiences, even before the desire to share them with others. And then because the trip to Dolpo was special: the region that is the most remote and least populated in Nepal, where roads, telephones, electricity don’t exist, and it was also a particular moment of my life. I was about to turn forty and in many ways it had been an extraordinary year.

If there was ever one, which was the most significant and memorable gastronomic experience in Nepal? Two or three come to mind. The first was giving a hard-boiled egg to a girl on a mountain pass at 5,500 metres above sea level. I was very tired but I was never hungry because of altitude sickness, and she was coming from the opposite side, and accepted that gift with a wonderful smile. The second: bringing our guide to a restaurant, in Katmandu, after a very long, hard journey. In that restaurant there was everything, meat, fish, wine, and we offered, but our guide ordered a dal bhat, that is rice and lentils, what the Nepali always eat at lunch and dinner. The third experience that impressed me greatly, at Annapurna, was passing a sign that said: “From here you enter a sacred valley and out of respect to the mountain, from now on, it is forbidden to kill and eat animals”. I had never connected abstinence from meat with love for the mountains. Since that day, and it’s been three years now, I’ve become a vegetarian. How is your relationship with hunger, with being hungry while you are hiking? Is food a functional accessory or an important moment in your mountain days? I like being hungry, I skip breakfast in the morning and I like hiking on an empty stomach, feeling empty. The body manages to go without food much longer than we think, we seem to have to eat always and instead we could fast for days and days (I have only managed three in my life). Eating for me is the end of the journey, I don’t want it to be a service moment, a refueling of sorts, but rather a celebration. So I prefer not having lunch and honouring dinner, sitting at a table in a tent, after a long day. Even

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if above four thousand metres I am always nauseous and eating is no longer a pleasure. Are there traits that mountain cultures all over the world have in common? I didn’t have this experience. In Nepal and the Alps I saw the opposite of sacredness, eating is a necessary act, it’s done quickly, alone, almost in secret. I have the Nepali in mind, sitting in a corner with their plate of rice and lentils, and the almost stealthy way in which my mountain friends throw a piece of bread and cheese into their mouths. I also remember my peasant grandparents eating that way. It’s a form of nurturing and in the mountains it’s rare to be invited to dinner, or go out to dinner together. It’s also true that respect for food is absolute, in Nepal everything is carried on someone’s shoulder and it would be unthinkable to throw away even a grain of rice. Do you think it’s still possible – despite the constant increase in the tourist flow – to live an “authentic” experience on a journey to Nepal? Yes, if you go to places where travel is untamed. “Authentic experience” means being uncomfortable, having to finding the road, meeting people who don’t speak your language; it’s the experience of diversity and distance, and it happens in a place where everything is not prepared to welcome you. In many regions of Nepal it’s already so, tourism is the greatest resource and we can find every service we are used to, from helicopters to whiskey to wi-fi, even if you are at Everest or Annapurna base camp... But there are still regions that have remained intact. When these will disappear in Nepal, there will still be in Pakistan, Mongolia, Kazakhstan. When those too are finished, I hope to be no longer living.

STORIES

periment. For those who have the desire, however, it’s possible, with the aid of local guides, to approach the daily life of the Nepalese and to get a taste of their traditions. The experience is very deep, equally to the other aspects of the journey. NOT A COUNTRY 2 FOR CARNIVORES 80% of the Nepalese population is Hindu, 10% Buddhist. Both religious beliefs pro-vegetarianism over the centuries have hindered the development of a system of breeding of animals in order to produce meat. Few traditional restaurants serve meat: chickens and water buffaloes are local, beef and pork are instead imported from India. Eating yak meat is somewhat of a half legend. Yak cheese on the other hand is often found, but at outrageous prices for the local population, selling at 10 to 20 euros per kilo. Yak butter is widely used, spread on bread or salted 3 and melted in tea, an ultra-energetic drink that would delight followers of 2. Dal Bhat, dish made with the ketogenic diet. rice, lentil soup and various Agriculture still accounts for 60% cooked vegetables (photo Giorgia Cannarella) of the country’s GDP: primarily the 3. Dahi, typical yogurt in cultivation of rice, immediately folAsian cuisine lowed by corn and wheat used for (photo fried bread and chapati. In third poiviaggidimichele.com) sition is buckwheat, used above all . orbert ieder o er, chef for polenta, and millet, protagonist at St. Hubertus of the tongba, a very popular “hot . orbert ieder o er beer”: a large tin cup is filled with prepares the risotto in fermented millet, on which boiling the tent during his trek in water is poured; the result is a sweet Nepal: the only dish made drink with a sour aftertaste which during the trip and failed is sipped for hours with a straw. It’s because of the altitude that ma es it dif cult to bring impossible not to mention the most water to a boil famous dairy product of the country: Juju Dhau, or “the king of yogurt” that is only found within the city walls of Bhaktapur. It has a sweet taste and a thick and creamy tex-

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NEPAL

NORBERT NIEDERKOFLER. FROM GHEE TO GRAUKÄSE, THE TEACHINGS OF THE MOUNTAIN Norbert Niederkofler is the chef at St. Hubertus, Tre Forchette Gambero Rosso and 3 Michelin star restaurant in Hotel Rosa Alpina in San Cassiano, in Val Badia. In 2013 he launched his manifesto “Cook The Mountain” to promote and bring added value to mountain cuisine. In December 2018 he opened the AlpINN restaurant-shelter within Lumen, the first museum in the world on mountain photography, located at 2,275 metre elevation, in Plan de Corones, in the heart of the South Tyrolean Dolomites, and Unesco World Heritage site. When and how was your travel experience in Nepal? It was in 2013. I hiked for almost two months, starting from the village of Jiri, just over 1,500 metres up to 5,200 meters at Gokyo lakes. We were a team of six people with 10 sherpas. The trip was organized by my friend Romolo Notaris, the first Swiss mountain climber to hit the 8,000 metre mark in Alpine style climbing. What was the most intense and memorable experience? A mountain pass at 5,500 metre-elevation in the Api-Nampa joining Nepal and Tibet. Every year the Tibetan vendors, after finishing their commercial

season in Nepal, used to gather there camping out in tents. Once all reached the camp, they’d came home together. It was an incredibly mystical place, full of signs formed by the stones that were left to say thank you. Now the pass has been closed. What do you think of the increase in tourist flow in mountain resorts, in Nepal but also in Italy? Are there more risks or benefits? What I did was not very tourist-like: the only part of the trek in which I encountered westerners was the one from Lukla to Namche Bazaar. Surely hiking tourism should be more closely regulated, like it’s done in Bhutan. The “more is more” does not always work. Same for here, we should all learn to be satisfied with what we have. How was your trip, from a gastronomic standpoint? We slept in tents and the sherpas were always cooking. A simple and quality cuisine: potatoes – good as the ones grown where I live – a little meat, eggs, lots of greens... Was there a particular product you were impressed with? A few years later an Australian crew came to do a TV segment in San Cassiano. I showed them the preparation of graukäse, the traditional Tyrolean gray cheese, made with skimmed cow’s milk from the production of butter. They told me that some time before, while they were filming in Bhutan, they had witnessed the preparation of ghee – clarified butter widely used in that cuisine

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– and they pointed out to me how similar the two products were, as a product and in the procedure. Uniting mountain peoples around the world there’s always respect for products and the awareness that if you don’t work in summer you won’t have food to eat in winter. The mountain teaches us not to waste, not to exploit resources excessively. The mountain teaches you life lessons. Was your cuisine in any way influenced by the Himalayan experience? Not my cooking directly. But certainly I was influenced as a person. That place was fascinating to me, it pushed me to make certain choices. That’s where I discovered the desire to become a parent. Did you ever cook during the journey? Our sherpas knew how to handle everything perfectly, ensuring fresh bread and hot dishes every day. I didn’t want to interfere. Only once, after a 13 hour hike, I decided that I wanted to make risotto for the group. I had not thought that, at that elevation, water takes longer to boil: I was mortified, it took me an hour just to cook the rice. The sherpas would peek into the kitchen tent, look at me and chuckle… Are your travels ever exclusively oriented towards the gastronomic experience? When I travel with my family, I visit a single Michelin star restaurant at most. Going to that kind of restaurant should not be the rule, it should be the exception, which one enjoys for a particular occasion, for a special reason.

STORIES

ture, produced from buffalo milk and served in red ceramic bowls. The Nepali people consume it especially during festivities and religious celebrations, but tourist restaurants offer it year round. ON THE NEPALI TABLE Nepal is a republic founded on dal bhat. The Nepali eat it at lunch and dinner, order it at restaurants, and make it the protagonist of their jokes. Served on a metal tray (jharke tal) there’s a considerable amount of rice and achar (pickled ginger, chilli pepper, horseradish), cooked vegetables such as Palak Saag Sadheko (spicy spinach) and three small bowls containing curdled milk, vegetarian curry (or, more rarely, with meat) and dal, lentil soup that gives the name to the dish. The garnish is crisp papad, fried lentils. There is a precise ritual to consume it: to be eaten strictly with the right hand, pouring the soup directly on the rice, which is rolled up and brought to the mouth together with the vegetables or the pickles. The vegetarian version of the dish is called tarkari and is the most popular because it allows unlimited refills: waiters pass between tables with the rice bowl, the soup and vegetables, filling dishes upon request. Second in popularity is momo, the only dish that travels outside of the borders of the country appearing in menus of so-called Asian restaurants around the world. Egg dumplings filled with meat or vegetables, are common in the other Himalayan states: Tibet and Bhutan. The Indian influence instead is the reason for the popularity of mistha bandar, pastry-snack bars selling samosa and very sugary sweets, while the Chinese influence is in the ubiquitous chow mein and noodles: with eggs or

POKHARA BHALAM SARANGKOT

NADIPUR

EVEREST STEAKHOUSE

METHLANG

KAHUN

FULBARI

GODFATHER’S PIZZERIA

SWARA RANIPAUWA

Lago Phewa POKHARI PATAN

KANNANI DANDA

RAM GHAT

BAIDAM KUNDAHAR

SOS VILLAGE DAMSIDE

Aeroporto NAYAGAUN

TIBET

Pokhara

POKHARA THAKALI KITCHEN

Kathmandu INDIA BIRMANIA

RAJ GAHUN

MAJHERIPATAN

DOVILLA

1km

THE 10 MOST COMMON INGREDIENTS

Aduwa ginger

Dahi yogurt

Aloo potatoes

Dhania coriander

Bhat rice

Kodo millet

Chana chickpeas

Palungo spinach

Dal lentils

Pyaj onions

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MARCH 2019

vegetables, in broth or not. The last fundamental piece of Nepali cuisine belongs to the Newari culture, the fifth most widespread and most urbanized ethnic group. In Newari restaurants – the most luxurious are in Kathmandu – there is widespread use of spices and a great variety of meat cuts and organs, from fried marrow to stuffed lung. TREKKERS CUISINE “In Kathmandu, there is also the guru / Leads us in paranoia, Preaching upside down”. So sang back in 1974 Italian songwriter Rino Gaetano. Today it’s not like that. No more spiritual inspiration mixed with the calls of opium: Third Millennium tourists are rather healthy and organized, looking more to the heights of

9 PLACES TO EAT

NEPAL

in Kathmandu KATHMANDU

DECHENLING BEER HOUSE

BARPHEDI

BOHARATAR CHANDOL

RANIBARI

THAKALI BHANCHA

FIRE AND ICE TRIDEVI SADAK – +977(0)14250210 FIREANDICEPIZZERIA.COM PIZZERIA OPENED BY ITALIANS WITH A GOOD CHOICE OF CONDIMENTS AND FINE DOUGH. THE MOST FAMOUS PIZZA IS THE “ROMPIPALLE” WITH TOMATO, MOZZARELLA, SPICED GROUND MEAT, CORIANDER AND CHILLI, A REAL MIX OF CULTURES AND FLAVOURS. PIES ARE SOLD AT 4 - 7 EURO.

KAISER LAZIMPAT SWAYAMBHU NAXAL KIMDOL

DALLU

DECHENLING BEER HOUSE KESHAR MAHAL MARG (VICINO A GARDEN OF DREAMS) +977(0)14412158 TIBETAN RESTAURANT WITH AN ENCHANTING GARDEN AND REFINED INTERIORS. WE RECOMMEND THE TIBETAN AND BHUTANESE TASTING MENU, TO DISCOVER DISHES LIKE TSEREL (VEGETARIAN MEATBALLS) OR ERMA DATSI (A SORT OF MUSHROOM AND CHEESE CURRY), ALL SERVED WITH TING MOMO, A DELICIOUS BREAD BAKED WITH STEAM. 1015 EURO FOR A MEAL.

BATTISPUTALI TAHACHAL

Aeroporto

PUTALISADAK

YAK RESTAURANT

FIRE AND ICE ANAMNAGAR

TEKU

THAKALI BHANCHA CHAKSIBARI MARG – काठमाडौं – +977(0)14701910 INFORMAL RESTAURANT, ATTENDED ABOVE ALL BY LOCALS IN THE THAMEL NEIGHBORHOOD. ONE OF THE BEST THAKALS SET IN THE CITY: VEGETARIAN, CHICKEN, DRIED MEAT (SUKUTI) OR MUTTON. IN THE PLACE OF RICE YOU CAN ASK FOR DHIDO, BUCKWHEAT POLENTS. 3-5 EURO FOR A MEAL.

BHOJAN GRIHA

KULESHWOR

KAISER KAISER MAHAL – GARDEN OF DREAMS +977(0)14425341 – KAISERCAFE.COM THE LUXURIOUS RESTAURANT IS LOCATED WITHIN THE ‘GARDEN OF DREAMS’, ONE OF THE CENTRE’S FEW VERDANT

SANEPA

CORNERS FEATURING INCOMPARABLE TRANQUILITY AND

1km

A ROMANTIC ATMOSPHERE. INTERNATIONAL MENU WITH LARGE SELECTION OF COCKTAILS AND SNACKS.

OVER 20

EUROS FOR A COMPLETE MEAL.

the mountains than the city slums. On the plane passengers wear hiking boots, technical backpacks, outdoor wear and all check the same box on their pre-filled visa: “Purpose of travel: hiking”. There is no need for updated official data (which the Nepal Tourism Board does not provide anyway) to understand how most of the tourist flow is linked to mountaineering or hiking. And therefore with very specific gastronomic needs. Leaving hard core mountain climbers aside let’s focus instead on the hikers. There are two ways of doing this in Nepal: in a tent, carrying (thanks to sherpas) equipment and products for cooking; or relying on so-called mountain lodges, present only on a number of hiuking trails and circuits.

The two most famous are those at the Annapurna base camp (4,130 metres) and the one that reaches the Everest base camp (at 5,364 m elevation). In the Annapurna Base Camp Trek, the last inhabited village, Chomrong, is at 2,700 metres: after that altitude, there are only lodges run by private individuals, and above all, there are no paved roads. For hundreds of kilometers hikers share the same menu, at most printed with different characters listing sections roughly divided into: potatoes, noodles, soups, rice, bread and eggs. Dishes rich in carbohydrates, necessary to face long hours of hiking, and in fact the most popular dish remains the dal bhat, usually sold for 4 euros. In the shops scattered along the trails are T-shirts with the words “Dal Bhat Power:

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MARCH 2019

BHOJAN GRIHA DILLI BAZAR – +977(0)14411603 – BHOJANGRIHA.COM THE MOST FAMOUS OF THE NEWAR RESTAURANTS IN THE CITY, HOUSED IN A SPLENDID 19TH CENTURY BUILDING IN THE DISTRICT OF DILLI BAZAAR. PATRONS COME HERE TO ENJOY THE EVENING SHOW OF MUSIC AND DANCES AND THE WIDE SELECTION OF SNACKS, VEGETARIAN AND NOT, LIKE PANEER PAKUDA (FRIED CHEESE).

YAK RESTAURANT SONAM GEAR SHOWROOM – KWABAHAL STREET (THAMEL MARG) – +977(0)14259318 DON’T LET THE NAME FOOL YOU: THIS IS A QUIET SPACE, ATTENDED BY GUIDES AND CARRIERS. NO YAK, BUT EXCELLENT TIBETAN DISHES, LIKE FRIED MOMO (KOTHEY) PAIRED TO WARM MILLET BEER (TONGBA).

in Pokhara EVEREST STEAKHOUSE PHEWA MARGA – +977(0)61466828 – EVERESTSTEAKHOUSE.COM OVER 30 VERSIONS OF BEEF STEAK (FROM INDIA) WITH LARGE ASSORTMENT OF SAUCES. POKHARA THAKALI KITCHEN CENTRAL LAKESIDE – +977(0)61467379 COZY ATMOSPHERE, THAKAL CUISINE OF EXCELLENT LEVEL. GODFATHER’S PIZZERIA LAKESIDE RD. – +977 61-462691 – HALLAN CHOWK +977(0)61466501 – @GFPIZZERIA TWO LOCATIONS, IN THE LAKESIDE AREA OVERLOOKING LAKE PHEWA, FOR WHAT IS UNANIMOUSLY CONSIDERED THE BEST PIZZERIA IN TOWN.

STORIES

24 hours”. «Products and equipment can only travel up on mule back, or with sherpas. This is why there is so little variety in the kitchen – says Phurba, a Nepali leader-guide – The difficulty of cooking is intense. In some protected areas, such as the Annapurna Sanctuary, it’s forbidden to collect firewood: above a certain elevation people cannot even 6 use our traditional wood-fired ovens (chulo). And certainly no one can afford to pay for helicopters to transport the products.» In fact, very often along the way it’s common to meet carriers with their backs bent under the weight of baskets full of stoves and burners or dangerously poised under what seem to be pounds of eggs. BREAKFAST, WATER AND “WINE” The most varied gastronomic moment during the trek, is breakfast: eggs – scrambled, poached, in the form of vegetable or onion omelettes – are served with toast, pancakes, chapatti or fried bread (called tibetan

TOURIST-HIKING HISTORY OF NEPAL

29 May 1953 – Sir Edmund Hillary amd Tenzing Norgay reach the summit of Mt. Everest

1923 – Nepal independence

1949 – Nepal opens its borders

1996 – Nepal withdarws the hiking limit to compete with China

1993 – The Nepali government sets a limit of 4 Everest expeditions per year

2017 – The Lonely Planet guide names Nepal as the number one in the 10 Best value places to visit

25 April 2015 – An earthquake devastates Nepal, killing 9,000 people and destroying many UNESCO World Heritage Sites 28 May 2008 – Nepal becomes a Federal Democratic Republic

1920

1940 1950

1990

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6. Momo: Dumplings (similar to Chinese dumplings lled with meat or vegetables (photo Giorgia Cannarella) 7. Asian noodles (photo Giorgia Cannarella) 8. Bhaktapur, an ancient Newari town in the eastern part of the Kathmandu valley (photo iviaggidimichele.com)

NEPAL

WHERE TO EAT NEPALI FOOD IN ITALY

1 Himalaya – Milano via Marcantonio Dal Re, 10 0283541759 himalayaristorante.it

2 Achar – Milano via Piero della Francesca, 13 0287247049 – acharcucinanepalese.com

3 Kathmandu – Lecco c.so Carlo Alberto, 5 0341363460 ristorantenepalese.it

4 Kathmandu Fast Food Roma via M. Buonarroti, 28 3296444402 8

bread or gurung bread) with the corn bread variant. The international origin of hikers has led to curious culinary hybrids, from spring rolls, similar in the filling to the original, but in the shape of an Italian panzerotto; to rosti, not in the form of a potato pancake but rather a simple hash. In any case these are a nice variation with respect to the ubiquitous combination of rice and vegetables or spaghetti and vegetables. Mineral water is only found at low altitude and not recommended since Nepal does not have a proper waste disposal system. Over 3,000 meters water can be drunk if boiled or, more simply, imbibed as tea: the most popular is an infusion of lemon and ginger, and milk tea, obtained from tea leaves boiled in milk mixed with

sugar and masala spices. To celebrate the various stages reached, hikers can order rakhsi, which is locally referred to as “Nepali wine”: basically a homemade grain distillate that’s mostly undrinkable for us Westerners. Beers, industrial or local, are never lacking, but prices rise with elevation becoming similar, if not greater, than those found at home. Even in the mountains most of the dishes are vegetarian. In some areas, such as the Annapurna Sanctuary, it’s forbidden to consume meat: many signs warn that hikers may experience surprise checks on backpacks, incurring in fines if found carrying a slice of ham or salami. A question of religion, yes, but also of hygiene. «How could they keep the meat for many months, when lodges barely have

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a generator, often not working, and rely on solar panels? Electricity is precarious, a freezer is therefore practically unthinkable – explains Phurba – The only meat found along the hiking trails is chicken, at low altitudes, if there are local farmers who happen to sell it. The same goes for butter and cheese: both are locally produced, but are too expensive and difficult to preserve: at high altitudes there aren’t any, so only seed oil is used. Olive oil? A luxury even in the city, let alone in the mountains». Nepal is out of our food comfort zone, an experience that betrays how nutrition in extreme conditions would be impossible to replicate in the West. A reboot of meanings, a journey that’s not only geographic, through concepts of necessity, abstinence, hunger...

GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Giorgia Cannarella, Sonia Gioia, Stefano Polacchi, William Pregentelli

PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Pietro Amendolara, Giorgia Cannarella Giuseppe Corsini, Gaia Niola, iviaggidimichele.com GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia Advertising Class PubblicitĂ SpA Milano, Via Marco Burigozzo, 8 - tel. 02 58219522 For commercial enquiries: mprestileo@class.it Advertising director Paola Persi email: ufficio.pubblicita@gamberorosso.it Gambero Rosso and are registered trademarks belonging to Gambero Rosso S.p.A. GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. 2019. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials. March 2019

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