Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food n.153 by Gambero Rosso

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

Argiano, Contemporary in Style A 50-year retrospective of Brunello di Montalcino

THE OTHER SANTO DOMINGO

30 YEARS OF CABERNET FREIENFELD

year 24 - number 153 - march-april 2022 - gamberorosso.it

VINITALY 2.0

SOMMARIO WINE

T R AV E L

5

Editorial

6

News

 12 

The Wine to Buy

 13 

Seasonal Cocktail

 14 

Design

 16 

US Tour 2022

 39 

The Other Santo Domingo

 46 

Top Italian Restaurants. Interview with Carmine Amarante, awarded Chef of the Year 2022

FOOD

Argiano BruneLlo A memorable Brunello Vertical Tasting

LOREM IPSUM

year 24 - number 153 - march-april 2022 - gamberorosso.it

 50 

Veronafiere: “This edition will shape Vinitaly’s future”

54 

Argiano. Ancient soul, modern breath at the roots of Brunello di Montalcino

 64 

The discreet charm of Colli Berici

 74 

Cantina Cooperativa di Cortaccia Vertical Tasting

 82 

Recipes: Marianna Vitale

 88 

Tasting Notes

 92 

World Wines

54 74

Vini Alto Adige: quando il vino racconta un territorio

L’Alto Adige è un territorio piccolo dove convivono insieme elementi diversi che in questa terra riescono ad accordarsi in un’unica armonia. Baciati dal sole mediterraneo, cresciuti nel territorio alpino, vinificati da vignaioli esperti, apprezzati dagli appassionati di tutto il mondo. Tutto questo sono i vini dell’Alto Adige.

www.vinialtoadige.com

“A long story to discover sip by sip.”

winegrovers in Friuli since 1963 www.pighin.com

Why Natural Wine is here to stay Natural wine is a generational factor. In its manifestations, the average age punctually is striking: both of those who pour, therefore of the winemakers, and of those who taste. It’s low, incredibly lower than all other industry events. We saw it in the events in New York, in Berlin, during the latest edition of Vini Selvaggi in Rome. The events that were in-person attendance - we saw it especially in the USA during the Tre Bicchieri - started again with great enthusiasm and presence: there is a desire to exchange, to ask questions, to look each other in the face. And in this context, the indefinite world of natural wine has a particular charm: it is the only wine capable of bringing young consumers closer, involving them, and making them passionate with a peculiar intensity. Its narration brings together many themes especially dear to new lines: the cap of environmental sustainability, the recovery of agricultural practices of the past, the originality of taste as an artisan trait; in the background, the desire to overturn market patterns and rules, having fun along the way. Customers change and labels communicate boldly, often playing the card of irony, contrast, novelty. Here communication takes place on a transversal, instinctive level, played more on the emotion of the moment than on technical aspect. And the points of contact with craft beer do not stop there, both in terms of demographic and in terms of consumption and production speed. The wines to be tasted are young to say the least, with fermentative aspects that are often predominant, for carefree beer-style drinking: more or less by the drop, more or less dry. While the long macerations, both on the reds and on the whites, bring back the bitter taste as an avant-garde element, just as happens in the kitchen among some of the best young chefs of the peninsula, let’s think of the amazing cuisine of Gorini in San Piero in Bagno, for example. More examples can be found in Copenhagen as in San Francisco. Some not really secondary merits to be recognised in the world of natural wine? Having forced the entire sector to question itself on central themes: the rediscovery of native grape varieties, the mantra of drinkability, the strong thrust of organic and biodynamic viticulture, the need for a new language. Today’s risks? The sealing wax formula, indigenous yeasts, amphora and long macerations on the skins can easily lend themselves to acting as a marketing tool that nullifies the sense of place and the originality of taste, just like it goes for the demonised selected yeasts and million dollar batches. Between drinking from passion and the pleasure of the moment there is the risk of blurring the boundary between wine, kombucha (which we like very much) and fermented juices. Losing that poetry of wine which is the reason why all of us will never leave this world. The natural approach is fine, but first of all the vineyard! Lorenzo Ruggeri

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NEWS

Arcangelo Dandini flies to London with Garum by Antonella de Santis

Spring begins with great news: Arcangelo Dandini flies to London with the Garum project, an Italian cuisine restaurant in the heart of the English capital. Garum will present a product-driven cuisine, with a Roman imprint, in compliance with the peculiar figure of the chef-host native of the Castelli Romani, who in Rome has been a reference point for quality dining for years. The format? “Something halfway between L’Arcangelo and Supplizio” explains Dandini, referring to an evolved trattoria, with space, however, for more thought-out dishes and others, usually considered for strolling or suitable for quick consumption, which here instead will be completely new, like mozzarella in carrozza, crispy cod, croquettes or Arcangelo’s famous supplì. Comfort food in Capitoline sauce, the great classics of Rome - from carbonara to cacio e pepe, from tripe to artichokes alla romana, to egg in tripe - some Italian dishes, be it risotto or cockerel, take centre stage, but also pasta with tomato sauce. And then meatballs, Fassona tartare and anchovy meatballs with garum. In short, “We’re going to London to make a proper Italian restaurant, I am convinced that from this point of view we will do well.” Garum will open in April at 68 Queensway. About 50 seats, a privée, a few seats at the bar counter and a dozen outdoor seats, which could increase in the near future, when the street will be pedestrianised. Open 7 days a week, from 11 am to 10 pm.

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The identikit of the average food and wine tourist in Italy Over 60% of Italians who travel for food and wine tourism claim to be “innovative.” How? The idea behind this label brings together all those who in food, and in the possibility of discovering the culinary traditions of a territory, see a resource to be discovered with curiosity, a source of new and different travel experiences. But the innovative tourist is only one of the 13 psycho-culinary profiles among those identified by the new Report on Italian food and wine tourism (relative to 2021) drawn up by Roberta Garibaldi. On the podium, among the most practiced consumption habits is also the search for authentic and local. This means that, if on the one hand the tourist offer must renew itself continuously to meet the needs of those in search of novelty, on the other hand, authenticity and the link with culture remain central to the local food and wine experience. 42% of Italians, as a matter of fact, look for experiences respecting local traditions, while 38% of them opt for activities, restaurants, and places managed by locals. The organic experience is the outsider, but now increasingly oriented to conquer an important slice of the preferences of Italian tourists. About 6 out of 10 travelers define themselves as organic or biodynamic, thus expressing their propensity for organic culinary experiences. In short, the reference target of the food and wine sector is increasingly young, dynamic and demanding. And involving, also through the use of new digital and virtual means, becomes an imperative to ensure the recovery of the sector in Italy after difficult years.

NEWS

The regional Food Innovation Hub in Bracciano’s Spazio Attivo The regional Food Innovation Hub was founded by Lazio Innova and the Lazio Region to support business projects and startups active in the agri-food and forestry sectors. The goal of the “Spazio Attivo Food Innovation Hub” is to be a space where agri-food companies can share their ideas and needs, creating new market opportunities and establishing broad partnerships. As technical tools of the Lazio Region, Lazio Innova and Arsial play a fundamental role in two respects: on the one hand they promote opportunities in foreign markets (through in-ternational outreach), on the other they create open laboratories for companies to experi-ment and transform agri-food resources into highly innovative products consistent with new trends, such as nutraceuticals, organic products, locally-sourced foods and products concerning food safety. In terms of innovative services for agricultural businesses, Spazio Attivo Bracciano is a hub around which those involved in the partnership revolve: trade associations, stakeholders, universities and research institutions. Spazio Attivo hosts business projects and startups active mainly in the agrifood and forestry supply chains: there are several incubation labo-ratories dedicated to go-to-market startup strategies. The Bracciano Hub is also home to FabLab Lazio, a shared space equipped not only with innovative equipment and technolo-gies in which makers, designers and students can create prototypes and objects but also the Digital Kitchen Lab, the ﬁ rst regional collaborative space dedicated to food innovation. This last is equipped with high-tech workstations and machinery designed to provide in-spiration and ideas to those who intend to hone their skills and become innovative chefs, a place for research and sharing where exchange and dialog involves the entire agri-food supply chain. The ﬁ rst edition involved 49 partners from the world of research, academic institutions and trade associations, and saw the participation of about 1,000 companies. The result was a total of 76 ideas presented, 46 projects developed and, in the end, 30 prototypes launched on the market.

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NEWS

Le République, inclusive restaurant At the cinema with gusto. The of restaurant at the Anteo reopens in Milan in Marseille The sign reads La Republique, and perhaps the name already contains the spirit of a business that aims to be as participatory and inclusive as possible. Specifically, the project by chef Sebastien Richard, born in Marseille with the idea of eliminating social or income differences between diners, in the context of a fine dining cuisine. We are not talking, therefore, of a solidarity canteen, but of a restaurant with all the trappings of the case, set up in a bright and pleasant space to offer an authorial menu based on quality ingredients and creative flair. Yet, to have lunch at La Republique it’s sufficient to spend one euro, a symbolic fee required of all those who generally cannot afford going to the restaurant. For the system to be sustainable, wealthier customers are required to pay a larger sum (22 euros for three courses), which is added to the subsidies received to fund the project and the proceeds that will be collected during special event evenings. The first initiative of its kind in France, but not an absolute novelty: at the end of 2021, the Geneva Refectory opened with the same purpose. The hope is that the formula of inclusiveness can take hold.

Cinema and restaurant in one place. In the last two years, the pandemic has deprived us of the pleasure of being in the room to watch a movie, as well as, in the most difficult times, the possibility of going to a restaurant. In Milan, the recovery also marks the reopening of a special space in the Anteo Cinema called Sala Nobel, a hybrid cinema-restaurant environment curated in collaboration with Eataly Smeraldo. The daily projection schedule started again with Belfast by Kenneth Branagh and The Portrait of the Duke, with Helen Mirren. The public - there are 18 seats in the room - can enjoy the dishes on the menu comfortably seated in front of the screen. The formulas designed ad hoc for the Nobel Hall are aperitif at 6 pm (from Thursday to Sunday) and dinner at 8 pm (on Saturday and Sunday, during the morning screening, you can also have lunch at the cinema). The menu includes Milanese mondeghili with tartar sauce to artichoke flan with Parmigiano cream and chestnuts, plus Milanese risotto. The kitchen is geared to please everyone (there is also a vegetarian menu). The meal times are marked by projections and the service staff works in compliance with the screening, while the functionality of the armchairs allows you to eat comfortably while watching the film. Better if paired with a good glass of wine.

HOW I COOK YOU A MOVIE by Marco Lombardi

The hand of God is Paolo Sorrentino’s attempt - although always in line with his somewhat cerebral, at times cold style - to expose something intimate, narrating the tragic accident that took away his parents. He does this using contrast, the perverse beauty of his Naples, “responsible” for his subsequent need to make cinema. On the occasion of a family lunch, Mrs Gentile - who always wears a fur coat, and quotes Dante - devours a mozzarella: bitten off, sitting aside, with drops of milk that smear her face like chocolate for a child. The gesture, which mixes elegance with getting dirty, and ostentation with modesty, is the Sorrentino-style symbol of Naples, of a “mother” who’s as much cultured as she is a feral animal; even mozzarella - with its tenaciously protective skin which, once broken, hides a fatty sweetness, that is authentic, and a fibrous, that is “nervous” tenderness - is his way of representing the heart of her city. “Mrs. Gentile, who is not kind, depicts disdain for things we don’t like”, says Rosanna Marziale, the Caserta native chef who over time has built her success precisely on mozzarella, a product she adores - according to our restaurant guide 2022 - almost like a divinity. “Mozzarella should be eaten as Mrs. Gentile does, even if we then use a fork and knife: that’s why in 2003 I created the Palla di Mozzarella, a mozzarella ball stuffed with noodles dressed with basil, a dish that still exists and that was born to be eaten with your hands, just like in Sorrentino’s film.”

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GAMBERO ROSSO X MONTELVINI

The Prosecco of the future according to Montelvini. FM333, first spumante made from must Family history for 5 generations

An experience of 141 years and five generations that finds its highest expression in the bond with the territory. Montelvini is located in Venegazzù, a small fraction of Montello (Treviso), in the heart of the Asolo Montello DOCG. Here the Serena family - with President Armando and his children Alberto and Sarah, who manage the winery - became the real custodian of the vineyards of the Asolo hills, where the rarest and most exclusive denomination of Prosecco is located. Ability, dedication, enthusiasm and passion, combined with the company’s centenary experience in the production of quality wines, have allowed Montelvini to become one of the most dynamic winemaking realities in the Italian scene, capable of evolving while remaining strongly linked to the wine history and cultural heritage of the territory and thus contributing to writing the future of an area devoted to viticulture.

A company cru born from Montelvini’s centennial experience in the production of bubbles and the result of constant research both in the vineyard and in the cellar. This is the Asolo Prosecco Superiore Docg Brut Millesimato 2021 “FM333” which, after the first appearance on the market last year, with this second vintage (produced in only 13,300 bottles), represents the consolidation of a long work of experimentation. «For us this is a dream that came true last year - said Alberto Serena, CEO of Montelvini - the culmination of a research journey that we have been pursuing for years and which represents the excellence of our company’s sparkling skills and quality, one that our territory is capable of expressing.» What makes FM333 an innovative

product is the winemaking technique that differs f rom the traditional Prosecco and uses a single 2

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fermentation, rather than two. Of the grapes, selected manually, only the f ree-run must is used

GAMBERO ROSSO X MONTELVINI

1. Alberto Serena, CEO of Montelvini 2. The vineyard where Asolo Prosecco Superiore Brut Millesimato FM333 is born 3. The Serena family: Sarah, Alberto and Armando

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013

The wine Asolo Prosecco Superiore Brut Mill. FM333 ’21

which is stored cold to extract more aromatic precursors. The must is then clarified by decanting, without any use of adjuvants. Subsequently, a single fermentation is activated in a tank to obtain the second fermentation. Finally, at the end of a six-month journey, FM333 is born, a unique “sparkling wine made f rom must.” This innovative method enhances the distinctive characteristics of the glera grape; f reshness and flavour create the supporting structure of this sparkling wine which harmoniously boasts a lively but at the same time soft and creamy froth. .

To go back to the name of the wine, however, we need to focus on the place of production: a single vineyard of the Fontana Masorin estate at 333 metres above sea level. Rich in history and located on the slopes of one of the most fascinating hills of Montello, Fontana Masorin owes its name to a spring water that laps the edges of the estate. Legend has it that once, in this place, three evil peasants lived intent on polluting the water so that no one could use it. One day a woman turned them into wolves to punish them for their selfishness. After that magical apparition, the water became clear, turning into an inestimable wealth for the inhabitants of the district. Wealth of which, even today, Montelvini is the spokesperson. Tasting notes. On the nose, aromatic touches reminiscent of Golden apples, and to Williams pears. On the palate the sparkling wine is mineral, lively and then expands in a gustatory explosion of very long persistence. Pairings. FM333 lends itself to raw fish, steamed seafood and Mediterranean dishes.

 Montelvini - Volpago del Montello (TV) - fraz. Venegazzù - 04238777 - montelvini.it Attività svolta nell’ambito del progetto OCM -Rif. Regg. CE 1149/2016 e 1150/2016 Contratto n. Veneto 36 2021-2022 -Veneto: The land of wine- Consorzio il Veneto in un Bicchiere

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NEWS

THE WINE TO BUY

TENIMIENTI GRIECO

Molise Tintilia 200 Metri 2020 Portacannone (Campobasso) www.tenimentigrieco.it average retail price: 10-12 euros

Numerically speaking, Molise has the population of a single district in Rome. In fact, 305,000 people live in this small region, rich in mountainous and hilly areas, embellished by a small stretch of coast sprayed by the Adriatic Sea. Molise is a varied, fascinating territory, in many ways still pristine in terms of its landscape, and historically well suited to grape cultivation. Most of the vineyards are situated between Campobasso and the sea, where that sort of large plateau that slopes down towards the coast finds the right conditions in hilly areas with a less extreme climate, even if over the last decade several producers have pushed upwards, cultivating closer to the green mountain ranges. Today, however, the watchword is Tintilia, Molise’s primary native grape variety. The name derives from its tint, due to its intense ruby color and the richness of its anthocyanins. It gives rise to wines with trademark Mediterranean flavors, both in terms of its mineral profile and in its whiffs of coastal scrub. We believe that Tenimenti Grieco, the winery that was taken over by Antonio Grieco, a Puglia businessman who decided to invest in winemaking in nearby Molise, produces of the very top Tintilia on the market. The main site is located in Portocannone: the Tremiti islands on the horizon and the Apennine behind make for a style of wines sharing close-focused fruitiness and a pleasant palate. We felt in love with teh Tintilia 200 Metri that stands out from the rest of their wines. We liked the 2020 version for its refreshing varietal aromas of small red fruit merging with sensations of Mediterranean scrub that expand into a close-focused, clean, precise and extremely pleasant palate. This is an hidden gem offered at an extremely competitive price.

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SPIRITS

SEASONAL SEASONAL COCKTAIL COCKTAIL byPaola Paola Mencarelli Mencarelli by

NAKED&FRIENDS Fausto Bigongiali, Jeffer Cocktails & Friends, Pisa 2,5 cl Siete Misterios Mezcal 2,5 cl Italicus 3 cl Citrus No Waste Acid Cordial 1 cl Agave

Glass: Tumbler Basso Technique: Stir

n the new “Save the Animals” drink list that Jeffer has created in collaboration with the Animal Equality association, here is the “Naked & Friends,” a cocktail that takes inspiration from the tradition of giving a goldfish to children during Carnevale, and urges us to respect the natural environment of animals. It’s a twist of the more famous Naked & Famous, Italianised with bergamot liqueur and an acidic citrus cordial, re-using the waste parts of the latter. The grapefruit peel recalls the classic image of the motionless goldfish in the centre of the crystal bowl.

THE BARMAN: Tuscan by birth, in love with the world, Fausto Bigongiali studied Economics in Pisa. He moved first to Spain and then to England, collecting journeys between North America, India and Europe. In 2019 he settled down in Italy where, together with his friends Giacomo Colantuono and Riccardo Carli, decided to open Jeffer Cocktails & Friends. A street bar on the splendid backdrop of the Pisa Lungarno, where the pursuit of quality and ingredients blends with an innate propensity for all-Italian hospitality. The mantra of Fausto and his life and professional project is: "Happiness is the key, for drink, for life, for everything."

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IN SHORT

DESIGN by Sonia Massari

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DESIGN

PORTABLE WINE

EATING DESIGN, SHAPES AND MATTER

The founders of leisirwine are Caitlin McConnell and Ashley Santoro, the former has a long experience in the world of marketing and fashion, the latter has been a renowned wine consultant for many restaurants in New York. Among their gadgets is a bag that seems to have been made specifically to house a bottle of wine. The bags produced in collaboration with XOGOGO are made of canvas. A perfect packaging to give a wine as a gift, as well as to take it on a walk...

James Shaw uses a hands-on approach to explore the landscape around him. His work aims to understand the material, systemic and formal aspects in the creation of objects. With Bi-Metal Confusion Spoons the designer explores non-prescriptive ergonomics and looks for all the correspondence that a hand can create, both physically and aesthetically, in grasping a teaspoon. All proceeds support the After School Club educational program for London state schools.

shop.storeprojects.org

leisirwine.com

INNOVATIVE SPATULA MADE IN JAPAN

ENTERTAINMENT MUSHROOMS

The EAトCO Tolu Tolu kitchen spatula is a folding kitchen tool, finely polished and made of thin and flexible stainless steel. The tool is produced in Sanjo (in the Japanese prefecture of Niigata), one of the major steel districts in the world. The spatula is very resistant and seamless, it can slide easily under food without damaging it. It can also be very useful for flipping burgers, or cutting pies without damaging their shape.

Mushrooms are everywhere: from the world of fashion to art, as well as in nutrition. Technology today allows us to grow them in grocery stores or in restaurants. Now each of us can grow their own mushrooms with Blue Oyster! All you need is a spray bottle filled with water, a rubber band and a clean, sharp knife. On the Smallhold website we furthermore read that we can name our mushrooms, photograph them as if they were a small pet and share their photos on Instagram, and then eat them.

ijapanesetaste.com

smallhold.myshopify.com

AN EDIBLE CONTAINER

DESIGNERS AGAINST WASTE

It’s called Ooho and it’s a 100% edible and biodegradable packaging created by a team of designers and chemists, engineers and entrepreneurs. Ooho replaces disposable packaging for liquids - it’s the perfect solution for drinks, sauces, water, juices, alcohol or condiments. It is made from Notpla, a sustainable packaging material that combines algae and plants and disappears in 4-6 weeks, just like a fruit would. Or it can be eaten as a snack!

We all know that waste is a big problem. What can design do? This is the theme of the exhibition open until February 20 at the Design Museum in London: a new generation of designers are proposing a new relationship between man and nature. From fashion to food, from electronics to construction, to packaging, finding the lost value in our garbage and imagining its future as new and clean materials. Among the designers: Formafantasma, Stella McCartney, The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Lacaton & Vassal, Fernando Laposse, Bethany Williams, Phoebe English and Natsai Audrey Chieza.

notpla.com

until February 20th – designmuseum.org

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US TOUR 2022

A gemerous dose of energy, enthusiasm and optimism. This is what we bring home every time we come back from our trip to US. And this is our diary from Los Angeles to Boston.

EVENTS

Italian restaurants drive the relaunch of Italian wine in the US

generous dose of energy, enthusiasm and optimism. This is what we bring home every time we come back from our trip to US. And here we go again. After two stops in California, Gambero Rosso’s tour headed to Chicago, one of the shows that in the last years has grown the most among the numerous ones in our calendar. The event, staged on February 23rd at the Bridgeport Art Center, gathered an influx and participation above all expectations, with many operators who reached the ‘windy city’ even from neighboring states and cities, confirming a passion and attachment that continues to surprise us, despite the many years of overseas travel. “This is the first big event on wine after the pandemic, to-

day there is a special atmosphere because we are here with a different approach. It’s great to see how many Italian producers have moved despite everything,” comments the importer Michael D. Lo Duca. “Sales have never stopped, today I’m showcasing Tre Bicchieri wines in my portfolio, Chicago has responded strongly,” adds Paolo Cerruti, distributor of Beivuma. Chicago’s food and wine scene held up better than many other North American cities, with a few closures and several new establishments, including Gioia, a restaurant opened just a few months ago. “We wanted to propose something different, inspired by the classic Italian tradition, from paccheri al pomodoro finished in front of the customer to a proper cotoletta milanese. Then we have an Italian cocktail bar at

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the entrance and a deep wine list” tells us the chef and partner Federico Comacchio, awarded with the Two Forks and the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List Award.

Three days later, on February 25, the Tre Bicchieri Day took place at the Metropolitan Pavilion in New York. 220 wine producers were attending with their wines, an absolute record. At the end of the day, we counted more than 2500 visitors, something unthinkable only a few months ago. “Midtown has suffered a bit, there are still closed stores, but the city is strongly recovering. We are working very well, Williamsburg is an increasingly appreciated area,” says Francesco Panella, awarded with Two Forks. His

WORLDTOUR

 family – the historic headquarters

is in Rome, in the Trastevere district – celebrates 100 years in the restaurant business. “In recent years, between visa blockade and pandemic, a generation of Italians has jumped, we have a strong lack of qualified Italian staff, we could give work to many Italians and we are working with the chamber of commerce to find a solution. Right now all the new openings are pasta workshops and very simple places, but I’m sure there is room for more. We held our own during the pandemic by also selling very large bottles of Italian wine, and our loyal clientele has been our real strength”, analyzes Gianfranco Sorrentino, owner of Il Gattopardo, since 2001 the most solid reference point for traditional cuisine in Manhattan, and president of the Gruppo Italiano, which brings together most of the Italian restaurants in the city. “I was surprised by how Franciacorta is moving on, the Consortium is displaying a solid project and a well-focused direction, even today’s tasting showed an increasingly precise and defined style. It can really compete on the American market with a new strenght,” Nunzio Castaldo, president of Panebianco Wines, told us. Among the new openings in town, La Devozione stands out, awarded Two Forks for its incredible rigor of flavors, a true hymn to Campania’s cucina and traditions. The Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List Award? It went to the D.O.C. Wine Bar in Brooklyn, with a smart, joyful list full of gems from Sardinia and Southern Italy.

On Monday, February 28, Boston closed the cycle of American stages. The tasting featured 50 wineries in the Cyclorama event space, in the heart of the Massachusetts city. In a gastronomic context certainly not favorable for Italian cucina, the average

CUSTOZA’S PROMINENT ROLE IN USA TOUR

Financed by the European Union and run by Unione Italiana Vini (UIV) and Promotora d’Exportacions Catalanes (PRODECA), the campaign ‘Taste the Difference – Quality Wines from the Heart of Europe’ highlighted the characteristics of this great white from Veneto. Opened by the President of Consorzio Vini Custoza, Roberta Bricolo, and held by Marco Sabellico, the masterclasses were then completed by a tasting of twelve labels from the 2017 to the 2021 vintage. Both events featured more than twenty labels of PDO and PGI wines ranging from Veneto to Lombardy, from Emilia Romagna to Sardinia.

level is lower than elsewhere, Bricco stands out, awarded with a fork and the award for the contemporary wine list. “As soon as the pass controls were lifted, the whole of Boston’s restaurant industry got off to a strong start, now you can breathe a different air,” says Marco Caputo of pizzeria Mast’, awarded with Two Slices. “I believe Boston was the most interesting stop among the US tour, 15 right contacts, I’m not focused on the quantity, but on the quality of the public and today I successfully worked, the trade is super professional. The whole tour was a wonderful experience, Chicago and Boston above all, when you present

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yourself in contest like this one, with Gambero Rosso and the best of Italy in one tasting room you have a different ability to penetrate the market”, says Alberto Panero, sales director of the Piedmontese winery Diego Pressenda. The stop in Boston was also the occasion to award two restaurants from other states, Strega in Milford by Danilo Mongillo, in Connecticut, and Pasquale’s Pizzeria Napoletana by Pasquale Illiano in South Kingstown, Rhode Island. Two excellent examples of true Italian cucina that is spreading more and more throughout America, leaving the big cities and finding new and well-structured formats. 

EVENTS

Falanghina del Sannio protagonist in Chicago and San Francisco

vents were sold out, even in the Chicago leg of the Tre Bicchieri World Tour: the Masterclass dedicated to Falanghina del Sannio, a wine that is experiencing a season of growing success on this important market. “Falanghina is a versatile and modern wine, in different interpretations. And it is also one of those Italian whites who improve with a few more years in the ageing room. And all of this fascinates the US consumer. These are years of brilliant growth for Sannio wines on this market.” This is how the President of the Vini del Sannio consortium, Libero Rillo, told us at the end of the masterclass. “It is important for us, especially after these two really difficult years, to regain personal contact with US operators. We need to consolidate our success and grow further,” said Paola Mustilli, owner of the winery by the same name. The turnout at the seminar, as was also the case for the events on the West Coast last week, was sold out. A grape variety that fascinates for its millennial history and for the extraordinary flourishing of excellent labels in the last decade. The tasting itinerary, divided into seven labels, ranged from the 2020 harvest to 2017 and offered wines of different terroirs as part of the DOC, made by both private companies and cooperative structures. All the wines, including the more “mature” ones, share a precise stylistic code, which favours acidic freshness, the fullness of fruity notes and citrus and Mediterranean herb tones, which then become more complex and deep as the years go by. In our experience we also tasted Falanghina del Sannio which were 10 and 15 years after the harvest (bottles were perfectly kept, always in the dark and at a constant temperature), thus finding incredible surprises. Conceived as a very young and fresh wine to drink, it is a versatile white capable in its best expressions of admirable evolutions in the bottle. The Chicago tasting confirmed maturity of the appellation, well expressed by a now solid quality, still combined with a particularly advantageous price for what’s in the glass. 

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WORLDTOUR

Franciacorta in New York

arco Sabellico and Lorenzo Ruggeri conducted a highly successful tasting as part of the Tre Bicchieri event in New York. For about an hour and a half they told the story and illustrated the particularities of this Lombardy appellation which is the most important in Italy when it comes to bottled sparkling wines. From the morainic soils found on the shores of Lake Iseo, to the slopes of Monte Alto di Adro, it was a fascinating journey that unfolded through 12 excellent labels, ranging

from Nature to Brut, from Blanc de Blanc to Blanc de Noir, from non vintage to vintage up to two fine Rosés. “We are a small denomination - said Cristina Ziliani of Guido Berlucchi & C. who spoke - but we believe in this market, where our company has continued to invest for years with interesting results”. “These are important occasions, especially after two difficult years, to reconnect with the important realities of international winemaking - said Samuel Nichols, employee in a New York wine shop - Italian wine occupies an important place on our

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shelves, and tasting and educational events like these for us are an important source of professional development, as well as making an important contribution to the growth of your exports.” The corner dedicated to the Consorzio Tutela Franciacorta also allowed the Lombard companies (24, each of which presented a leading label of their production) to weave or consolidate relationships with the large audience of traders and wine lovers who crowded the halls of the Wine Tasting. 

PHOTOGALLERY CHICAGO

EVENTS

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PHOTOGALLERY NEW YORK

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PHOTOGALLERY BOSTON

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Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour

CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR 2022/2023 2022/2023 2022/2023 2022 0222022 MARCH MARCH MARCH 24 LONDON 24 LONDON 24- U.K. LONDON - U.K. - U.K.

JUNE JUNE JUNE 01 SINGAPORE 01 SINGAPORE 01 SINGAPORE

trebicchieri trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 2022

28 ZURICH 28 ZURICH -28 Switzerland ZURICH - Switzerland - Switzerland Vini d'Italia ViniExperience d'ItaliaVini Experience d'Italia Experience

Top Italian TopWines ItalianRoadshow Top Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 14 03 HO03CHI HOMINH 03 CHI HO MINH -CHI Vietnam MINH - Vietnam - Vietnam d'Italia ViniExperience d'ItaliaVini Experience d'Italia Experience 15 WASHINGTON 15 WASHINGTON 15 WASHINGTON DC - USA DC - USA DC Vini - USA

17 SEATTLE 17 SEATTLE 17 - USA SEATTLE - USA - USA

APRIL APRIL APRIL

Vini d'Italia ViniExperience d'ItaliaVini Experience d'Italia Experience

trebicchieri trebicchieri SUMMER trebicchieri SUMMER EDITIONSUMMER EDITION EDITION 21 MONTREAL 21 MONTREAL 21 MONTREAL - Canada - Canada - Canada trebicchieri trebicchieri SUMMER trebicchieri SUMMER EDITIONSUMMER EDITION EDITION 23 TORONTO 23 TORONTO 23 -TORONTO Canada - Canada - Canada

trebicchieri trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 2022 10-13 10-13 VERONA VERONA 10-13 - Vinitaly VERONA - Vinitaly - Vinitaly

21 HOUSTON 21 HOUSTON 21 -HOUSTON USA- USA - USA

Top Italian TopWines ItalianRoadshow Top Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 14

Top Italian TopWines ItalianTop Roadshow Wines Italian Roadshow Wines 14 Roadshow 14 14

26 MEXICO 26 MEXICO CITY 26 MEXICO CITY - Mexico - CITY Mexico - Mexico Top Italian Top Wines ItalianTop Roadshow Wines Italian Roadshow Wines 14 Roadshow 14 14

OCTOBER OCTOBER OCTOBER

MAY MAYMAY

15-16 15-16 ROMEROME 15-16 - Italy ROME - Italy - Italy

trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 premiere trebicchieri 2023 premiere 2023 premiere

25 TOKYO 25 TOKYO - 25 Japan TOKYO - Japan- Japan

trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023

trebicchieri trebicchieri SUMMER trebicchieri SUMMER EDITIONSUMMER EDITION EDITION 02 COPENHAGEN 02 COPENHAGEN 02 COPENHAGEN - Denmark - Denmark - Denmark

SEOUL SEOUL - Korea SEOUL - Korea- Korea trebicchieri trebicchieri SUMMER trebicchieri SUMMER EDITIONSUMMER EDITION EDITION 04 STOCKHOLM 04 STOCKHOLM 04 STOCKHOLM - Sweden - Sweden - Sweden

06 OSLO 06 OSLO - Norway 06 -OSLO Norway - Norway

Top Italian TopWines ItalianTop Roadshow Wines Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow

trebicchieri trebicchieri SUMMER trebicchieri SUMMER EDITIONSUMMER EDITION EDITION

12 MUNICH 12 MUNICH 12 - Germany MUNICH - Germany - Germany trebicchieri trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 2022 14 DUSSELDORF 14 DUSSELDORF 14 DUSSELDORF - Germany - Germany - Germany trebicchieri trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 2022

NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER

20-27 20-27 MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN 20-27 MEDITERRANEAN WINEWINE SEA CLASSIC SEA WINE CLASSIC SEA CRUISE CLASSIC CRUISE CRUISE13-20 13-20 USA/CARIBBEAN USA/CARIBBEAN 13-20 USA/CARIBBEAN WINEWINE SEA WORLD SEA WINE WORLD SEA CRUISE WORLD CRUISECRUISE TopWines ItalianTop Roadshow Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 14 23 SYDNEY 23 SYDNEY 23 - Australia SYDNEY - Australia - AustraliaTop Italian 22 SAO 22 PAULO SAO22PAULO SAO - Brazil PAULO - Brazil- Brazil Top Italian TopWines ItalianRoadshow Top Wines Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow Top Italian TopWines ItalianTop Roadshow Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 14 25 MELBOURNE 25 MELBOURNE 25 MELBOURNE - Australia - Australia - Australia Italian TopWines ItalianTop Roadshow Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 14 29 AUCKLAND 29 AUCKLAND 29 AUCKLAND - New- New Zealand -Zealand New Top Zealand

20230223023 DATES DATES DATES TOTO SHOW SHOW TO SHOW UPUP UP

FEBRUARY FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 23 LONDON 23 LONDON 23- U.K. LONDON - U.K. - U.K.

trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023

MARCH MARCH MARCH 01 LOS 01ANGELES LOS01 ANGELES LOS- USA ANGELES - USA - USA trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023 03 SAN 03FRANCISCO SAN03 FRANCISCO SAN FRANCISCO - USA- USA - USA trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023 08 CHICAGO 08 CHICAGO 08-CHICAGO USA- USA - USA

trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023

10 NEW 10 NEW YORK 10YORK NEW - USA-YORK USA - USA

trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023

trebicchieri trebicchieri HONG HONG KONG HONG KONG - China KONG - China - Chinatrebicchieri

BEIJING BEIJING - China BEIJING - China - China

trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri

SHANGHAI SHANGHAI SHANGHAI - China - China - China

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YOUR YOUR PASSION YOUR PASSION PASSION IS OUR IS OUR INSPIRATION IS INSPIRATION OUR INSPIRATION www.gamberorossointernational.com www.gamberorossointernational.com www.gamberorossointernational.com GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational

EVENTS

Gambero Rosso returns to California. Key words: business as usual! The Tre Bicchieri World Tour stops off in Los Angeles and San Francisco and is completely sold out. There are masterclasses with consortia and collaboration with Unione Italiana Vini in a market that is worth over 1.6 billion euros for Italy. Sparkling wines take the lead at +34%

ebruary 28, 2020: Gambero Rosso landed in California for the first American stop of the Tre Bicchieri tour. Three scheduled events: San Francisco, Los Angeles and an exciting new entry. For the first time there was also an event planned in Napa Valley. Everything was great, but in the meantime the news coming from Europe was disturbing. No need to say, we all know what happened a few days later. Exactly two years since that time, Gambero Rosso returns to California, after a first successful “taste” with

the San Diego event in the last part of 2021. And it’s back in Los Angeles (February 16 - City Market Social House) and San Francisco (February 18 - Festival Pavilion @ Fort Mason), two key cities for the marketing of Made in Italy wines. The clear feeling is that the hardship of the pandemic is behind us, that the sector has restarted in the best possible way. We found a spectacular welcome: smiles, positivity, optimism, dynamism and the desire to make the sector grow in the most important market in the world for Italian wine.

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EXPORT IN USA AT +20%. BUBBLES LEAD THE WAY Despite Let’s face it: despite two years of pandemic, despite the lockdowns, despite the halt in connections between the two sides of the ocean and despite the risk (averted with the election of Biden) of tariffs on EU products, the US is still the first target market for Italian wines. According to Istat data in the January-November period, 2021 recorded a very important 1.59 billion Euro in wines and sparkling wines, with an increase of 19.5% compared to the same period in 2020. As for volume,

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 the growth is over 17%, from 318.2

million litres in 2020 to 373.6 million per litre recorded between January and November 2021. Especially bubbles which, in 11 months, recorded 110 million litres exported to the United States, 35% more than the 81.4 million litres of 2020. As far as value, these went from 322 million Euros in 2020 to 431.2 million Euros in 2021, with an increase of over 34 percentage points. Prosecco was the real driver of the sparkling wine category (Dop Prosecco wines went from 241 million to 349 million Euros, +44%), followed by all the other denominations. In short, the US market has not turned its back on Italy.

THE ENTHUSIASM OF THE PRODUCERS Optimism is also perceptible among producers, over 150, as well as among importers, restaurateurs and journalists who have come to follow the events. “We love Italian wines” many tell us “we couldn’t miss this event.” For the delight of the many Italian winemakers ready to make deals, visit restaurants that serve their wine, discover new customers. Angela Piotti Velenosi, owner of the Marche-based winery by the same name, is delighted: “From these events you see that the world has restarted in a great way, there is a lot of euphoria among the operators and there is the desire to fill these last two years with work.” Roberto Gariup, oenologist and director of the La Contralta winery in Palau in Sardinia, echoes her: “This is the first time for us and it could not have been better. Many interested parties, all from the sector. With the right work done, the results will certainly come back to Italy. Thank you, you are a real war machine.” Massimo Furlan, export manager of Vigneti Le

Monde is also convinced of this: “From the success of events like this one in San Francisco you realise what will happen in the next few months: the market has restarted in a great way and we need to work to seize all the opportunities.”

ITALY IN A NUTSHELL Great turnout for the tastings open to the public. In Los Angeles, affluence was even higher than two years ago, pre-pandemic. The masterclasses were also sold out: two were organised in Los Angeles, four in San Francisco. One was common to both cities: “Italy in a nutshell” was the title, to represent the Italian world of wine. Opening with bubbles, both classic and Italian method (with Oltrepò Pavese and Valdobbiadene in the lead), then the still whites from Friuli, Orvieto and finally the reds of Valpolicella and Puglia, without forgetting a fascinating native Piedmontese grape variety, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato. MASTERCLASSES WITH THE CONSORTIA The other masterclasses were organised with the invaluable support of the Consortia: in Los Angeles Oltrepò Pavese was the protagonist on a tasting journey started from the Classic Method and reached still wines: Pinot Noir, but also Buttafuoco and Bonarda. Introduc-

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ing the tasting by Carlo Veronese, the director of the Oltrepò wine consortium. In San Francisco (again conducted by the editors of the Guide Marco Sabellico and Giuseppe Carrus) there was talk of Gioia del Colle and its Primitivo (numerous producers present), a wine that fascinates the American public who recognises a different and fascinating expression of the “American” grape variety par excellence, zinfandel. It was then the turn of Falanghina del Sannio, in a tasting introduced by Libero Rillo, President of the Consorzio Vini del Sannio, which led to the tasting of several young whites, but also of two Falanghina that testified to the ability of evolution in years of this great white: a 2016 and a 2014! Last but not least, the study on Custoza, through a nice seminar organised in collaboration with Unione Italiana Vini, for the “Taste The Difference” campaign: the emerging Doc of the province of Verona exemplifies the vast Italian biodiversity highlighted by the particular soils and from the different native grapes. Roberta Bricolo, President of the Consorzio Vini di Custoza, opened the event, while Sabellico and Carrus led the tasting of the 12 labels present that ranged from the last harvest, 2021, to 2017. Another testimony - surprising for American enthusiasts of longevity of the best Italian whites.

EVENTS

Fattoria di Valiano, Chianti Classico vibes in the heart of San Francisco second. Both communicate well the Chianti according to the terroir of Castelnuovo Berardenga and go very well with the proposed appetisers, from artisan cured meats, to the very good classic lightly smoked supplì. Poggio Teo is also proposed in a Riserva version: here we find more concentration, aromas of black fruits, light balsamic and a finish of great persistence. We continued with two Grand Selections. The Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 6.38 (Tre Bicchieri in the 2022 Guide for the 2018 vintage) is a wine that manages to perfectly combine structure and finesse. The nose plays on a kaleidoscope of wild berries, noble resins, tobacco leaves and peppery touches that anticipate a creamy and enveloping mouth, but well marked by acidic freshness and a savoury finish. San Lazzaro, also from the 2018 vintage, is the fruit of the namesake Cru. It offers hints of black cherry, spices and notes of vanilla. On the palate it is concentrated and dense, but the tannins are never astringent. A still very young wine that will give its best in a few years. The perfect pairing? All 5 of the company’s reds came into play: If the San Lazzaro was perfect with the very juicy grilled ribeye steak, the 6.38 convinced with the spatchcock chicken and the cacio e pepe (congratulations to 54Mint, perfectly executed). Sweet ending with a fruit tart, tiramisu and panna cotta: here no wine pairing, but lots of chatter among the diners. It’s time to take stock. The wines were convincing, and how! There is a lot of interest and everyone is already thinking of finding them in wine bars, enotecas and Californian restaurants. There’s a great desire to start again in a big way!

ot one cloud on the horizon, a beautiful sun that warmed the crisp Californian air. This is how we were welcomed to San Francisco with the grounds for a nice outdoor lunch all in place. We were welcomed by the highly trained staff of 54Mint, an Italian restaurant managed to perfection by Gianluca Legrottaglie, native Roman by birth but living in the States now for more than twenty years. In the outdoor patio of the restaurant, the great reds of Tenuta di Valiano, one of the Piccini group boutique wineries, took centre stage. The guests were all Californian journalists, influencers and winelovers, very well versed and ready to taste the various Chianti Classico of the company. The menu encapsulates the Roman spirit, not only for ingredients and recipes, but also for the (very centred) idea of sharing appetisers and desserts, thus creating a friendly and convivial atmosphere among the diners. A Vermentino della Maremma in Brut version, from the Moraia company (also part of the group) and the words of Marco Sabellico and Giuseppe Carrus, curators of the Gambero Rosso Wine Guide welcomed the guests, then everyone sat at the table for a nice tasting of plates and glasses. Representing the winery was Antonio Ciccarelli, export manager for the United States of Piccini 1882. The tasting opened with the Chianti Classico and with the Poggio Teo selection, both from 2019. Great drinkability for the first, a slight extra body for the

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Prosecco o’clock in Australia

aly and Australia come together in the name of Prosecco DOC. Two stages organised by Gambero Rosso in collaboration with Prosecco DOC Consortium. It was a true coast to coast journey in the name of Italian flavours, with classic but also imaginative pairings. The first was staged on February 1st, a veritable wine dinner held in Perth with 6 Prosecco Doc labels presented in pairing with an original cuisine proposal: bubbles met a fragrant focaccia with stracciatella and bottarga, tasty cod ravioli with bisque of Prosecco, risotto with shrimp and pomegranate. The evening, expertly led by sommelier and wine director Emma Farrelly, was hosted in the Pappagallo pizzeria in Perth. Lightness, flavour and conviviality: the evening was entertaining and fun, delighting and reviving the mood of the participants. After a pit stop, the other Australian coast was touched, with a stop in Brisbane on February 24, in this case the stage was the Lava restaurant. Opening the event was Peter Scudamore Smith, principal founder of Uncorked and Cultivate, one of the largest Australian wine consultancy companies. Also in this case, the different pairings confirmed the gastronomic and versatile nature of the type, including Prosecco DOC Rosé, which continues to be increasingly known and appreciated on the Australian continent as well. 

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EVENTS

The biodiversity of Oltrepò Pavese in the Los Angeles spotlight

ambero Rosso and the Oltrepò Pavese Consortium were protagonists during the Los Angeles event. The productive heart of Lombardy was the focus of special tasting corners and a masterclass conducted by Carlo Veronese, director of the Consortium, and Marco Sabellico and Giuseppe Carrus, curators of the wine guide. The protagonists are the different varieties of a large territory, very rich in historical denominations and wines, in total there are about 13,000 hectares of vineyards. To taste the Pinot Noir both in the Classic Method version and vinified in red, but there was also space for Bonarda, the sparkling red that tradition wants alongside the famous salumi of the area, but also Buttafuoco and Sangue di Giuda. But let’s take a step back to retrace the historical stages of the modern winemaking history of Oltrepò Pavese. It was the year 1865 when Count Carlo Giorgi di Vistarino planted the first pinot noir vines on his estate in Rocca de’ Giorgi, in the Scuropasso valley. Perhaps not even he imagined opening a new chapter so full of consequences for the entire Oltrepò

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district. How did he get the inspiration to plant the most celebrated of French vines in the land of bonarda and barbera? It was certainly not a mere whim. In reality, behind his first and subsequent plantings was a precise industrial plan, agreed upon with his friend Carlo Gancia, a great wine entrepreneur from the Asti area. The project was very simple: Gancia, comforted by the success of his Asti spumante, decided to launch into the production of dry sparkling wine made from pinot grapes, in the style of the now very famous and celebrated Champagne. The idea turned out to be a winning one: the cool hills of the Oltrepò proved to be an excellent habitat for the difficult grape variety and the foundations were laid for the entire Italian sparkling wine sector. Many other owners and winemakers followed his example, and the great sparkling wine companies of the Asti area found excellent raw materials for their cuvées. The success of Gancia, Contratto, Cinzano, Martini and Rossi and others was a fundamental stimulus for the entire Italian wine sector, and Oltrepò soon proposed its classic method labels. The engineer

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 Mazza di Codevilla even hired an oenologist from Reims

and of the Italian Classic Spumante Institute. Already from the Fifties, pinot nero is vinified in red, as evidenced by the excellent wines of Carlo Dezza di Montecalvo Versiggia and Giuseppina Quaroni di Montù Beccaria. The road seemed drawn, but the great wealth of wines with their different types, obtained from native and international grape varieties, which we find in Oltrepò, where Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Cortese are produced, to name just a few of the whites, and Barbera, Bonarda (from croatina, ughetta and barbera grapes), Rosso Oltrepò (blend of barbera, croatina, rare grape vespolina and pinot noir), the sweet Sangue di Giuda, and even Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and many others to including over 40 types of classic and Italian method sparkling wines have perhaps dispersed the energies of the producers of this land. Today, the Consortium and the producers have strongly focused on the Classic Method made from Pinot Noir, on quality Bonarda, on Riesling, with a very high average level certified by the growing number of Tre Bicchieri in our Vini d’Italia guide. 

to follow his production (this is happening at the end of the 19th century), obtaining excellent results with both dry and sweeter sparkling wines. In 1907 the SVIC (Italian Wine Society of Casteggio) was born, led by Pietro Riccadonna, another noble forefather of Italian sparkling wine, and with him collaborated Angelo Ballabio, Mario Odero and Raffaello Sernagiotto, all characters destined to leave a trace in the contemporary history of Italian oenology. Their sparkling wine was also a great success in the United States: just think that in those years, around 1910, on entering the port of New York next to the statue of liberty, the “Gran Spumante SVIC” sign stood out. If the SVIC adventure ended with the outbreak of the Great War, Riccadonna will continue in Piedmont and Ballabio and Odero in Oltrepò, while many other winemakers began to sparkle pinot noir, starting with the Cantina Sociale La Versa, which since the 1970s was the driving force of the territory, guided with passion and competence by Duke Antonio Denari, who was for a long time also President of the Consortium of typical wines of Oltrepò

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EVENTS

Gioia del Colle and Primitivo US Tour

f there is a wine that’s dear to the US public it’s certainly red Zinfandel, a kind of symbol of American oenology. The Masterclasses that Gambero Rosso organised with Consorzio Vini Dop Gioia del Colle in the Chicago and San Francisco Tre Bicchieri World Tour stage therefore aroused particular interest. This denomination is the very first employing the mysterious grape variety at the end of the 16th century, attested by don Francesco Filippo Indellicati (1767-1831) as Primativo thanks to the precocity of the plant’s ripening period. Today, on the other hand, Gioia del Colle is one of the wine-growing areas that arouses the greatest curiosity at national level, thanks to a series of Primitivos that amazed and happily surprised all industry professionals. Wines of great Mediterranean nature, rich and aromatic but at the same time fresh in the fruit and (relative) ease of drinkability, all or almost all coming from old alberello training system vines and from the renewed awareness on the part of producers of having a real treasure on their hands, one that’s absolutely unique in Italy. A new dimension for this territory witnessed

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not only by the success achieved on our Vini d’Italia guide. One of the keys to this rebirth is found in the traditional training method of the alberello system, a type of vine training system that practically does not need support and is ideal on low fertility soils such as those of Gioia to make wines of great quality. The wine-growing area of Gioia del Colle, locat-

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following decades a lot of blended wine, which went to reinforce prestigious wines from other regions of Italy, and table wine. The first bottles of Gioia del Colle Primitivo appear in the 1960s, while the first bottle with a designation of origin is from 1987, made by the Petrera winery. Seven wineries for a total of 18 wines made it possible to tell the territory with its particular soil and climate, as well as offering the opportunity to reconstruct some hypotheses on the path of Primitivo and its Balkan ancestors, from the Adriatic coast to California. The numerous contributions from those present and the increasingly positive comments on the quality of the wines served to turn on an important spotlight on the Puglia appellation. The Primitivo di Gioia del Colle wines tasted ranged from the 2020 harvest to 2015. The corners dedicated to the Gioia del Colle Consortium during the events in Chicago, New York, San Francisco and Los Angeles also allowed businesses present to bring together a large number of industry operators and wine lovers interested in learning more about the great Puglia red. 

 ed in the heart of the Murgia at an altitude between 300

and 400 metres above sea level, has red, clayey and calcareous soil, with a medium texture, rich in magnesium and iron, which does not even reach a metre deep before meeting bedrock. A difficult soil to work with, poor in nutrients but rich in minerals which the plant can draw from, ideal for those who intend to create a production that focuses mainly on quality and where the primitivo grape is expressed to the maximum. Probably originating in Dalmatia, from where it then arrived in Puglia two thousand years ago, and identical to the American Zinfandel and the Croatian plavac mali, the primitivo was selected in Gioia del Colle by the primicer abbot Francesco Saverio Indellicati at the end of the 1700s. The main characteristic of this vine is that although it sprouts with considerable delay compared to other varieties, thus avoiding the greater risk of frost, it ripens early, between the end of August and the beginning of September. Precisely for this reason the Abbot Indellicati called it “Primativo.” At the beginning of the 1900s in Gioia vermouth wine was produced and in the

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PHOTOGALLERY LOS ANGELES

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PHOTOGALLERY SAN FRANCISCO

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EVENTS

VINEXPO. Fair season begins in Paris. The Gambero Rosso report by Lorenzo Ruggeri

perfect ring-like closure. International wine fairs had stopped in Paris, in February 2020, and exactly two years later they regained strength and voice from the city of lights. Despite everything, the organizers’ choice to go ahead was a winning one. Wine Paris & Vinexpo Paris 2022 fueled energy and optimism, reconnecting a network of relationships and offering new business opportunities. “Confirming the fair in February, and not postponing it until late spring, was a brave move, necessary to meet the needs of the market. We love Italian wine, it is important for us to offer op-

portunities to everyone. For the future, it’s important that there is competition between the various trade fairs, because this stimulates creativity and is good for everyone, exhibitors and buyers alike.” Quoting Rodolphe Lameyse, CEO of Vinexposium. Among the masterclasses on the calendar there was ample space for the special prizes of the Vini d’Italia 2022 guide, with a sold out tasting led by yours truly: a journey in the glass from the heart of Valdobbiadene, the Cartizze hill, to handkerchiefs among vineyards , lentils and prickly pears from Ustica thanks to the dessert wine of the year; 12 wines to illus-

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trate the essence of an increasingly international publication in its profile. As usual, the level of participants was confirmed as extremely qualified, with a very high percentage of media and buyers, especially from Northern Europe, as expected. February 15 was also the day of the Tre Bicchieri event, dedicated to Italian wine. As many as 50 wineries in the tasting, with 150 wines that attracted an audience from 25 countries. The flow was slow and constant, among the guests also Victoria Agromakova, CEO of Wine & Spirit Ukraine, who wanted to remember how, beyond the winds of war, the wine scene in Ukraine is in sharp rise,

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 THE BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN PARIS

 with growing consumption and an

increasingly focused internal production, simultaneously announcing the first participation of a group show at the Prowein in Düsseldorf. Oenologist Jean Francois Coquard, on the other hand, wanted to overturn the concept of the French Paradox, recalling how the French, among the first wine consumers in the world, proposed to open nutriscore also to wine, fueling the fears of the whole sector. In our brief tour of the pavilions across the Alps, we intercepted on average positive comments, many stressed how this edition was even more encouraging and fruitful than the 2020 edition, the first in Paris. At the end of the fair, the feeling among operators is that Wine Paris & Vinexpo Paris will increase the role in the chessboard of international trade fairs in the coming years, also taking full ad-

The Italian restaurant dining in Paris is clearly one of the most competitive and dynamic at an international level. During the Tre Bicchieri event, the President of Gambero Rosso, Paolo Cuccia, and Luigi Salerno wanted to honour the best Italian restaurants in a city in great ferment as far as new openings and investments go. Awarded with the Tre Spicchi was Gennaro Nasti, with his new +400° Laboratory and Giuseppe Cutraro with Peppe Pizzeria. On the restaurant front, Il Vicolo, a solid family-run restaurant in the Latin Quarter, won Una Forchetta; while Due Forchette went to the debut of Langosteria, the result of a collaboration between the Milanese brand and Cheval Blanc, the first months went beyond all expectations. Due Forchette also valued the work of Massimo Mori with his Mori Venice Bar, same score for Il Carpaccio, which has focused on the talent of Oliver Piras and Alessandra del Favero, under the supervision of the Cerea family. Finally, Due Forchette and the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List award went to Caffè Stern, a Parisian restaurant owned by the Alajmo family and led by chef Denis Mattiuzzi. For the entire list, we invite you to browse the pages of the Top Italian Restaurants guide, available on the website.

vantage of the positioning in the lead in the calendar, overturning what in Bordeaux, with events scheduled in May and June, had become an obvious disadvantage. Meanwhile, the Gambe-

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ro Rosso world tour has already landed in the United States. After Los Angeles, the wineries are heading towards San Francisco, then it will be the turn of Chicago, New York, and then Boston. 

Da oltre un decennio, le Organizzazioni dei Produttori di Italia Olivicola collaborano strettamente con numerose Organizzazioni di Produttori greche ad un sistema comune di tracciabilità dell’olio di oliva e delle olive da tavola, certificato da Enti di Certificazione accreditati. La tracciabilità alimentare è diventata obbligatoria nella E.U. nel 2002 per garantire la sicurezza alimentare ma il sistema greco-italiano va ben oltre e garantisce ai consumatori l’origine geografica dei prodotti tracciati (100% italiano o greco), la loro qualità e la trasparenza dei processi produttivi. Inoltre, all’interno di questo sistema comune, i controlli effettuati sull’applicazione delle migliori pratiche di produzione svolgono un ruolo fondamentale nel minimizzare l’impatto ambientale della produzione di olive da tavola e di olio d’oliva. For more than a decade, the Organizations of Producers of Italia Olivicola have been cooperating closely with many Greek Organizations of Producers to a common traceability system for olive oil and table olives certified by accredited certification boards. Food Traceability became compulsory in the E.U. in 2002 to ensure food safety but the Greek-Italian system goes well beyond this and ensures to consumers the geographical origin of the traced products (100% Italian or Greek), their quality and the transparency of the production processes. Besides, within this common system, the checks carried out on the application of the best production practices play a key role in minimizing the impact on the environment of table olives and olive oil production.

THE OTHER SANTO DOMINGO A new gastronomic frontier in the name of cross pollination and sharing. We visited Santo Domingo together with the tuscan wines of Argiano. We discovered such a vibrant and evolving food scene

words by Lorenzo Ruggeri

STORIES

hite beaches, resorts, fun. It is a pure feeling of energy. Let's leave the common imagination of the tourist arriving in the Dominican Republic in the suitcase. Our journey takes us to a parallel, less known, but equally fascinating scenario: the vibrant and surprising local food scene. Nothing speaks more about the Dominicans than their way of living at the table. It is the alleys of the Ciudad Colonial of Santo Domingo that welcome us. The delightful low and colourful houses, wrapped in electricity wires, its museums, the dark stone churches that bring us back to the atmosphere of villages in Southern Italy. We are in a corner of Old Europe in the New World, the oldest, we stop in front of the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Incarnation, built in 1512 by order of Pope Julius II. Limestone, Gothic-inspired style and cross vaults: for years it preserved the 1 remains of Christopher Columbus, the immense monument on the sea is dedi- 3 cated to the man who united the two worlds: Faro a Colón, 800 metres in the shape of a Latin cross. The Dominican Republic is a perfect short circuit of North and South America, with a generous dose of old Europe, we think sitting before an excellent coffee at Casa Barista, on the same street as the Cathedral. A lot of research, extractions, for a specialty coffee that invites you to lose track of time. Behind the scenes is a character who we find behind many recent brilliant openings: Erik Malmsten, 36. Swedish father - he had a restaurant in Gothenburg - and Dominican mother. He started with a very small hole in the wall; today he manages 8 restaurants and many new projects in the pipeline. We are struck by his low profile and the way he observes, he always seems to study. A few metres and 

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SANTO DOMINGO

SWEDISH MENTALITY, DOMINICAN SENSIBILITY: ERIK MALMSTEN The chef (and entrepreneur) who is redesigning the Dominican food scene

2 4

Let's get into the Dominican cuisine, what are the basic ingredients? Staple flavors for the Dominican cuisine are fresh herbs and dry spices like Oregano, Coriander, Culantro, Garlic, Coconut, Sweet Clove, Ginger, Lemon juice. The local palate is high in flavors, were hearty soulful cooking always prevails. The use of burnt raw sugar as a base for meat and chicken stews is a quite unique way of creating more depth in final flavor. You literally start by heating up raw sugar in your pot until a very dark, almost borderline to a burnt caramel, which creates a very deep and round flavor for chicken or meat stew (guisada). Also, Casava (yuca) is a very well used ingredient. They grind and dry it out it converts in to a gluten free flour which the they form in to round disks and then bake them in brick ovens until crispy. The name is Casabe and it originates from de indigenous tribes called Tainos, with the years it has turned in to this staple hard bread which everybody loves no mater social or economic level. How does the island experience the table? We felt it firsthand: contagious empathy. The Dominicans are known for the warmness and willingness to help. There´s a saying on the Island that, “if there is food for one, there is food for two” nobody on the island would ever deny another a plate of food if they have one. That for me sums up everything there is to say about the Dominicans. Dominicans are happy, family oriented with and joyful spirit to life where there´s always an occasion to celebrate. You were born in a restaurant, what do you really like about being a chef? The liberty of creativity and freedom of working anywhere in the world it’s a sensation the few professions have. The high pace ambience together with the sensible and

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STORIES

we are in an old colonial house, one of those that always seem open to the outside: Mesón de Bari, one of the temples of traditional cuisine. Just browse the menu to understand that Dominicans live on the sea, but they are big meat eaters. And they enjoy mixing flavours of the sea and of the soil, rice is never lacking, as well as fruit that often enriches the dishes. We enjoy an excellent chivo guisado, a goat stew in Creole sauce, rice and beans as a side. Notwithstanding, all the new openings are in the direction of a lighter and more modern kitchen. Think O.dette, one of Erik's latest creatures, where many vegetarian and tasty dishes, light marinades, pastas and clear Mediterranean references are the protagonists. Between works of art and tropical plants. Here, more than anywhere else, the table is a way to live 6 life, to play down and stay together. Not surprisingly, on the floor above there is 7 O.dile, a tequila y mezcal club. We become even more aware of the ease of getting in touch, even empathic, with others during dinner at O.livia, Erik's Mediterranean bistro, that celebrates 10 years of business and Argiano's Red of the Year in the guide Vini d'Italia 2022: Brunello Vigna del Suolo 2016. In a little while, we meet everyone: we understand well when they tell us that Dominicans are very creative at finding reasons to celebrate with a bottle of wine. Wine has already become a fundamental element of social life. We are faced with enthusiasts who are prepared and sensitive to say the least. Among the public, the Italian Ambassador Stefano Queirolo Palmas, in the previous days we took part to a cultural exchange among Italian and Dominican cuisine thanks to Foreign Minister Roberto Alvarez. In the evening we tasted 5 vintages of Solengo, the supertuscan wanted by Giacomo Tachis in 1995, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, mer- 

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SANTO DOMINGO

1. A green corner in the Ciudad Colonial (photo Alejandro Nuñez) 2. O.dette 's dining room 3. Coffee break at Casa Barista 4. Sea and mountain in the Dominican Republic (photo Alejandro Nuñez) 5. Chef Erik Malmsten 6. Bernardino Sani, Giuseppe Bonarelli, Erik Malmsten, Piero Bonarelli 7. The dining room at O.livia 8. O.livia's Chateaubriand 9. The Cathedral of Santa Maria la Menor 10. Caribbean Spider Crab, at Okazu 11. Usuzukuri of cured Sea Bream roasted Bell Pepper emulsion, Walnut Oil, Yeast - Restaurant Okazu

 delicate approach that you need be able to manage is something that really applies to me as a person. Your favourite corners in the city? Think of a curious foodie visitor. Santo Domingo has been named “Gastronomical Capital of the Caribbean” 2 years in a row. It’s a melting pot of local cuisine blended with high end venues and expats from around the world interpreting there’s home country’s cuisine. Breakfast and brunch at Julieta have become a classic for many that lives in the capital. High end spots like O.livia, O.dette, SBG, La Cassina and Maracas with international flair are the best options when you want to enjoy a good meal in a busy fashionable ambience. Ajuala is a great spot for wine and dine for the gourmet costumer searching for a modern take on local ingredients. Have a cold beer in one of the hundred small “colmados” in the old town is a classic, especially on Sundays when you can enjoy live music at one of the old ruins. I love Don Nestor, a simple Argentinean Steak & Grill terrace in the middle of town grilling great steaks in a relax environment, the whole grilled chicken with special dripping sauce (Wasasaka) loaded with oregano is hard to beat. I’m no stranger for a 20 min drive to a close by beach called Boca Chica for a fix of whole fried fish freshly caught around the reefs and highly seasoned with garlic, cilantro, oregano and loads of lime juice, it’s a very unique experience and something that feels very Dominican.

Leaving the capital behind, what's your favourite hidden destination to catch your breath? Las Terrenas on the north-east side of the island in the Samana province, especially a beach called Playa Cosón. It’s a little bit “off-site” from the rest of the area, just perfect for relaxing, long strolls next to the water, aqua blue/torques colored by the way...with a stunning and breathtaking sunset. This is the place where you will find me most likely with my phone in flight mode, a cigar in my mouth, kids running freely, just sinking in and relaxing. This is my place for breathing and finding inspiration. What do you like most about Italian cuisine? How much has it influenced your work? Simplicity, local driven and it´s relentlessness when it comes to quality ingredients. I love Italian food in its full spectrum from south to north. The regional cuisine is amazing, one the best in the world and a true joy to enjoy. I have had the opportunity to travel extensively trough out the country which with the years have influenced me a lot in my thought process when it comes to creating new dishes. Since a have a Swedish background, I do share the point of view of simplicity and seasonal based cooking. Santo Domingo in 10 years, how will it be? I see a bright future; I believe that we have all the key attributes for to convert Santo Domingo into a gastronomical hub connecting not only South and North America but also the rest of the world for the simple fact that the Dominican republic is one the most sought after tourist destination in the world. It´s up to us to take advantage of this moment and make the best of it. And if we come together as one sector by working together, I do honestly believe that Santo Domingo could be I hot spot for what we know today as “gastronomic tourism”. Just like the big names, Peru, Mexico, Brazil to name a few.

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STORIES

lot, petit verdot and sangiovese. Precisely 2019, the last vintage, unleashed a major performance, confirming a vintage of great prospects. "Here they prefer full-bodied red wines, Solengo is among the best-selling and best-known wines. The Dominicans? They are generous, spontaneous, joyous, love to drink. The consumption of high-end wines is impressive. And the market is expanding sharply," comments Bernardino Sani, ceo and wimemaker at Argiano, who knows the Republic well. We exchanged an opinion on the wines with Giuseppe Bonarelli, President of El Catador, one of the largest importers on the island, a portfolio of over 1000 labels, complete with several wine bars and academies. A few hours later we found ourselves playing music together at his home, Giuseppe is the voice and guitar of the blues and rock group Bluesónicos. "Five years ago Italian wine was not being sold. The market was dominated by Spanish, Californian wines, a few French. Today Italy is very strong, 9 it has grown at three times the speed of other nations, especially thanks to Tuscan 10 wines. Whites still suffer, despite the high temperatures, red wines are drunk, also because consumed in a cool place, here the air conditioning always runs at full blast," he smiles. Speaking of mountains, the inland peaks reach 3,100 metres, the biodiversity potential is enormous and still little explored. The most profound and refined gastronomic experience? The last night at Okazu, another Erik creature. Impressive finesse and freshness of the fish, clear flavours, exceptional ingredients, incisive and signature combinations: we jumped up at the cured sea bream usukuri with roasted bell pepper emulsion, walnut oil, and yeast. Japanese tradition meets Nordic tradition: breaking down barriers, even in the kitchen, is the island's specialty. 

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ADDRESSES IN SANTO DOMINGO

SANTO DOMINGO

 Casa Barista

casabaristacoffee.com

 Meson de Bari

Okazu Nordic Japanese Restaurant

La Catrina

O.dette

restaurantwebexpert.com/ MesondeBari/

Don Nestor Parillada

 Il Bacareto

bocao.com.do/restaurantes/ilbacareto

Meson de Bari La Posta Bar

 O.dette

Ajuala

@o.detterd (IG)

 Okazu Nordic Japanese

The Butcher shop Casa Barista

Don Pepe

Restaurant @okazu_rd (IG)

 SBG Sophia’s Bar & Grill

sbg.com.do

Il Bacareto

 La Cassina

Maraca

@LaCassinaSantoDomingo (FB)

SBG Sophia’s Bar & Grill

300 m

 Don Pepe

@restaurantedonpepe (IG)

La Cassina

 Maraca

Serralés

c. Arzobispo Nouel, 202

CUBA

Centro Olimpico

Rep. DOMINICANA

 Don Nestor Parillada

Barrio Chino

@donnestorparrillada (IG)

Città Coloniale

 Ajuala

@ajualard (IG)

Evaristo Morales

 La Posta Bar

La Primavera

@lapostabar (IG)

1 km

 The Butcher shop

THE ITALIAN LEGACY IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC The names of the streets betray the importance of the Italian presence, starting with Francisco Gregorio Billini or Juan Bautista Vicini Burgos, Presidents of the Republic. "Today there are 12,000 Italians registered with AIRE, 70,000 considering tourism. The Republic is home to about 300,000 inhabitants with Italian blood, most of the second and third generation. The Italians arrived above all with streamliners at the end of the 19th century," Paolo Dussich, President emeritus of Comites, points out. Many characters who played a prominent role in the construction of national identity, admirably told in the book edited by Andrea Capanari, who reconstructed migration flows. From the first resident bishop of the Americas, the Umbrian Alessandro Geraldini, who arrived in Santo Domingo in 1519, who promoted the construction of the Cathedral, to the military engineer Giovanni Battista Antonelli, architect of the city's fortifications; the Genoese sailor Giovanni Battista Cambiaso, first admiral of the Dominican Republic, founder of the Navy and a national hero like Marcio Veloz Maggiolo.

The Italian legacy in the Dominican Republic, Andrea Capanari, published by Allemandi,

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ELEGANCE IS NOT ABOUT BEING NOTICED, IT’S ABOUT BEING REMEMBERED Interview with Carmine Amarante, Chef of the Year in the 2022 Top Italian Restaurants guide by Gambero Rosso

Words by Lorenzo Ruggeri

EVENTS

Neapolitan globetrotter, Carmine Amarante is by far one of the most talented Italian chefs abroad. After gaining valuable experience, he started at the Armani Restaurant in Tokyo, completely redesigning its cuisine and philosophy. In a short time, he was awarded the Three Forks and Chef of the Year in our Top Italian Restaurants guide. You’ve been touring many countries: England, Spain, the US. What are the most valuable lessons you’ve learned in Japan? What about the ingredients, techniques, or the way you approach your guests? Over the past five years, I’ve had countless opportunities to explore in Japan. I’ve immersed myself in the Japanese culinary culture, and I am deeply grateful to all the people from whom I’ve learned the potential of countless new ingredients, namely the use of special and innovative techniques, and, above all, the use of dashi and sauces that play a prominent role in their cooking tradition. I have been working really hard on my cuisine to get closer and closer to their palate, by offering a healthier, more sustainable and more essential culinary proposal, with regard to execution and taste.

In a short time, you have managed to redesign the Armani Restaurant’s identity, drawing on your wealth of experience and traditions, yet opening up and innovating the local taste. What are the basic concepts you worked on? Firstly, the in-depth study of the Armani philosophy and style. SIMPLICITY and ELEGANCE first came to my attention. “ELEGANCE IS NOT ABOUT BEING NOTICED, IT’S ABOUT BEING REMEMBERED” is one of the Giorgio

Armani’s quotes that has impacted me the most, fully representing my concept. The finest materials underpin the Armani brand philosophy, thus combining tradition and new experimentation. My mission is to express the value of each ingredient in the best possible way, while generating new ideas by mixing a traditional approach with innovative techniques. My basic concepts have remained the same, my passion and my dishes are reflected in the guest satisfaction. I’m always committed to achieving new goals.

lo, risotto, etc. the restaurant’s signature dishes. But the dish to which I am strongly attached, that transports me back in time, is the Tortello Genovese. Which are your enogastronomic spots in Tokyo, and why? For example, your favorite breakfast place? Let’s say that I don’t have a favorite spot. I prefer small Japanese places, where you can really soak up the culture, and understand their tastes. They give me that sense of family and warmth.

Which is your pièce de résistance ? And why? Let’s say that I am attached to all my creations, and the appreciation of my guests has made the baba, the tortel-

… and for an easy lunch? Like any self-respecting Neapolitan, I always opt for pizza. You’d be surprised to find out that there are excellent pizzerias in Tokyo, such as the Pizza Bar

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WORLDTOUR

What do they really dislike about our cuisine? Do they have a different perception of tastiness? There are very few things that the Japanese don’t like about our cuisine, to be honest, but it is also true that they have a much more refined, elegant perception of tastiness than we do. Some of your colleagues told me that Japan has a macho kitchen culture, even more than in Italy. What is your experience? I won’t hide the fact that this is reality in all kind of restaurants in Japan. However, the country has undergone a slow, yet steady change over the last 2-3 years. Six women are now part of my team, and I am very proud of them. I know many chefs who are creating all-women kitchens and dining teams, and I can’t help but support and encourage this change.

by Daniele Cason on the 38th floor of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Pizzeria e Trattoria da Isa for a typical Neapolitan pizza, not to mention the legendary Peppe Napoli sta’ca”.

Tokyo boasts a lively cocktail scene. I love the bars I usually go to, because they have an eye for the detail. My favorite ones are the SG Club, Bar Centifolia, Entrust, Bar Benfiddich.

A restaurant for a fine dining experience? In this case, I always recommend Narisawa, Hommage, Ryugin, Kikunoi, and Joël Robuchon Le Château.

It is known that Italians and Japanese share the same values both in the kitchen and at the dining table. How are we the same and different? I think that we are the same in being essential, but different in the way we do things.

An experience instead of pure comfort food? I would recommend ramen or sushi, if you are looking for pure, quick comfort food. Where do you usually enjoy a well-executed cocktail?

What do they love about Italian cuisine? There are two key elements that also belong to their culture and cuisine: TASTE and SIMPLICITY .

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Around the world, fine dining is not experiencing a golden time, and it is not just pandemic-related. What is your recipe to bring the public closer to the fine dining? Unfortunately, the last two years have been tough, and not only for the fine dining, but for the whole restaurant industry. We are almost at the end of the pandemic, I tell my colleagues that they need to stick together and not give up, while enhancing our amazing territory and producers with commitment and perseverance. What do you miss the most about Italy? Do you think you’ll come back, or do you think you have found your place? It may seem trivial, but right now the things I miss the most are my family and my Naples, that I haven’t seen for more than two years. I like it hier at Armani at the moment, I have been given freedom and trust, but the thought of returning is there. 

VERONAFIERE: “THIS EDITION WILL SHAPE VINITALY’S FUTURE” An increasingly international and selective exhibition. Orange wines and mixology are among this year’s novelties. The relationship with the city will take center stage, thanks to new investment and events dedicated to wine lovers. Veronafiere CEO Mantovani announces that “Proceeds from wine tastings will go to Ukrainian refugees”

words by Loredana Sottile - photo by Ennevi/Veronafiere

EVENTS

he countdown to 2022 Vinitaly has started: less than ten days to the return to Verona and to that 54th edition that immediately takes us back to a surreal 2020. An edition that will resume after a pandemic-related two-year break that will shape Vinitaly’s future. THE SURVEY ON VINITALY’S EVOLUTION Over this period, Veronafiere was able to launch its new strategic plan, as recalled by Veronafiere President Maurizio Danese during the press conference: “After a two-year break, Vinitaly returns to its original location, with an exhibition framework that takes it back to the pre-pandemic editions. An unexpected result that confirms the centrality of the event, and rewards Vinitaly’s development started in 2018 and refined in the last two years along three tracks: strengthening of business at the exhibition, operator selection and the growth of foreign presence.” The main focus will be the increasingly close relationship with companies. Vinitaly

indeed carried out a survey with 230 of them, conducted by the consulting agency Roland Berger, to understand the evolution of the coming years. It showed that the international growth represents a strategic priority for companies (74%), followed by improved profitability (52%). The first rational reason for attending Vinitaly is to acquire new foreign clients (83%), while companies with a turnover of more than 10 million euros are more likely than others to participate in order to present their products, conclude commercial agreements and network. “The presence of foreign (76%) and domestic (53%) buyers is among the strong suits pointed out by respondents,” stressed Veronafiere CEO Giovanni Mantovani. “What we are asked is, instead, a stronger international growth; a further selective reduction of wine lovers at the exhibition; a greater diffusion of B2B online tools; a better arrangement of the city logistics services”. A city that remains – according to exhibitors – the symbol of Vinitaly.

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A VINITALY-PROOF CITY: INVESTMENTS AND EVENTS “If Verona is the added value of Vinitaly, Vinitaly is the added value of Verona,” asserted Verona mayor Federico Sboarina, and announced that “This year’s Vinitaly will give impetus to the next editions. The city has indeed decided to invest in the Verona exhibition and its flagship event by working on infrastructures. For the coming years from now, you will see a different city and exhibition; you will get to Verona and to the exhibition by high-speed train, you will be able to enjoy one of Europe’s largest urban parks and a new toll gate at Verona Sud, which will improve the traffic mobility”. In the meantime, however, starting from this edition – and following in the footsteps of the previous ones – a rich calendar of events will liven up the historic center with Vinitaly&The City from April 8 to 11. The objective is to have two different locations for two different events: the exhibition as a business arena and the city as a true side event dedicated to wine lovers. In addition to masterclasses,

WORLDTOUR

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tastings, talks and showcooking, the city program also includes musical performances in the Cortile Mercato Vecchio, featuring big names such as Roy Paci, Joe Bastianich with the band La Terza Classe and Morgan. Check out the full program. HERE WHAT’S NEW But let’s go back to the exhibition and its agenda, where this year as never before new trends will make their appearance. Among the novelties in the

17 fixed and temporary halls, Vinitaly will welcome the ‘fourth color of wine’: orange wine. And, in this regard, a multi-year partnership will be established with the Orange Wine Festival in Izola, Slovenia. Space is also dedicated to ‘MicroMegaWines - Micro Size, Mega Quality’, the new section of niche productions with limited editions and to Organic Hall, representing Vinitaly’s organic offer. Finally, after the debut at last October’s Special Edition, the mixology area has been reconfirmed, featuring a rich calendar of masterclasses organized in collaboration with Bartenders Group Italia. As far as events are concerned, 30 conferences and 76 super-tastings also by Vinitaly are scheduled: from the opening tasting of the 2022 Tre Bicchieri by Gambero Rosso on Sunday 11, to the closing event ‘From father to son: the future of Italian wine’ on Tuesday 12 April by Riccardo Cotarella and Luciano Ferraro to give voice to the history of some of Italy’s most representative wineries, protagonists of a generational handover. In addition, there will be tastings at the 4,400 company booths, which to date have registered more than 17 thousand labels on VinitalyPlus, the Veronafiere business platform open all year round.

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PROCEEDS FROM WINE TASTING TO UKRAINIAN REFUGEES Last but not least, Vinitaly will be the occasion to gather a wide audience of stakeholders from all over the world. Almost 700 top buyers from 50 different countries already signed up, with North America taking a leading role. Veronafiere and the Italian Trade Agency (ICE) drew up a plan to cover the most strategic areas from the Atlantic to the Pacific and Europe and, from this edition, Africa as well. “We must ensure that new consumers get closer to the wine world,” highlighted ICE Chief Executive Officer Roberto Luongo. “That’s why this year we have also focused on new areas, such as Africa”, which will be represented by contingent of professionals from Mozambique and Kenya. However, there will be no Russian representatives, following the war in Ukraine that is jeopardizing the global balance for over a month now. In this regard, Mantovani affirms that “Vinitaly also wants to do its part. This is why the proceeds from wine tastings and masterclasses will be donated to Ukrainian refugees”. A small gesture that makes Vinitaly more and more involved in a larger international dimension. 

ARGIANO. ANCIENT SOUL, MODERN BREATH AT THE ROOTS OF BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO The origins of the Argiano estate are lost in the mists of time, but the soul of the place takes shape at the end of the 16th century and breathes the Renaissance spirit that makes the site a splendid residential and productive model. Over the years, the estate has evolved to become a historic winery of reference for the world of Brunello and for sustainable viticulture in Italy and beyond.

words by Giuseppe Carrus – photos by Francesco Vignali

STORIES

t appears that the name Argiano may derive from Ara Jani, with reference to the God Janus. It is also possible that it originated from the Orcia river, formerly Orgia, and from there Argiano. One thing is certain: Tenuta di Argiano is one of the historical and prestigious wineries of Montalcino, it dates back to 1580 and since then it has contributed to creating a beautiful piece of local history. A RENAISSANCE STORY It all started with the construction of the villa, a beautiful mansion in full sixteenth-century style, called Bell'Aria because it was decided to build it on top of the promontory to

find the best air quality. In the same period the winery was born and it's been four centuries that Argiano has been producing wine and olive oil. Over the centuries, there have been several changes of ownership between noble families, up to, in the nineteenth century, in the hands of Ersilia Caetani Lovatelli who managed it and introduced the wines to various people of high culture. Among these was Carducci who mentioned the wine in one of his verses: "in whose bitterness I bathed myself with the Argiano wine, which is so very good." THE NEW LIFE OF ARGIANO Coming to the present day, or rath- 

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OVER 4 CENTURIES OF VINEYARDS AND OLIVE TREES

1580 – The noble Pecci family started the construction of Villa Bell'Aria, a splendid example of a sixteenth-century stately mansion 1596 – The cellar of the estate is built: the wine history of Argiano begins 1616 – Bartolomeo Gherardini, general auditor in Siena on behalf of the Grand Duke Cosimo III de Medici, also mentions the production of Argiano olive oil 1580 1600

VERTICAL. BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VIGNA DEL SUOLO

1932 – Argiano wins the gold medal at the Brussels Food Show for the production of fine table and dessert wines

2012 – Change of ownership starring the Brazilian entrepreneur Andrè Santos Esteves

2013 – The leadership of the company is entrusted to the hands of Bernardino Sani who strives to implement organic and regenerative agriculture

1967 – Argiano makes the history of Brunello di Montalcino by participating as a founding company in the birth of the Consortium

1886 – Poet Giosuè Carducci wrote in a letter addressed to Countess Ersilia Caetani Lovatelli, owner of the historic winery at the time: "I bathed myself with the Argiano wine, which is so very good" 1850

1992 – The estate passes to Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano who relaunches the wine and the name of Argiano

2015 – The oenologist begins to make the wines of Argiano

1993 – Countess Marone Cinzano hires oenologist Giacomo Tachis

1900

2000

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2022 – Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo 2016 is elected by Gambero Rosso Vini d'Italia Guide as the Red Wine of the year

2010

2019 – Argiano is the first plastic free company in Montalcino 2020

STORIES

The soul of a wine over the course of 45 years

1971

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

Rainy spring followed by a hot summer led to an optimal seasonal trend all the way to harvest. The wine is truly incredible, fifty years after the harvest, it still shows impressive vitality. The fruit is there and can be noted behind a kaleidoscope of scents ranging from undergrowth to bark, from noble spices to pipe tobacco. The mouth is lean, but the savoury aspect (especially in the finish) is not lacking, tannin is barely noticeable, the freshness is still guaranteed by a nice acidity and the finish is long, deep and very clean.

1978

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA

Vintage characterised by a regular seasonal trend. Average summer temperatures with almost no rainfall. For the harvest, the weather remained stable, allowing the grapes to ripen perfectly. Maceration of 22 days for this 1978 released as a Riserva. The nose shows signs of youth ranging from red fruit (blackberry, blueberry) to licorice sensations and a nice touch of coffee powder. The mouth is rhythmic, very expressive, tannin is noticeable, but it is never aggressive and blends well with a structure of great balance and a very savoury finish.GAMBERO ROSSO 58 MARZO 2022 

er, to the century that has just passed, the date to remember is 1967, when the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium was born and Argiano was one of the founding wineries. Only in the early nineties the company passed from the Caetani Lovatelli family to the countess Noemi Marone Cinzano who carried out various innovative and relaunching actions, starting with the choice of calling the great Giacomo Tachis as an oenologist consultant who contributed, among other things, to the birth of Solengo, an appreciated Montalcino Super Tuscan, especially at that time. The most recent history sees the change of ownership which took place in 2012. The acquisition by Andrè Santos Esteves, a Brazilian entrepreneur who immediately 

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STORIES

1979

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA

The seasonal trend had a very uncertain course with rainfall also in the summer period. For this reason, the summer temperatures were below the season's average. Cool temperatures were also recorded during the harvest. Despite this, the ripening of the grapes was regular. After just over forty years, the freshness of the vintage can be perceived in the glass. The wine is subtle, almost lean, but of absolute value. There is no lack of acidity, tannin is perfectly balanced with the matter. Moreover, fascinating notes of moss and wet earth emerge slowly and the fruit is still perceivable...

1980

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA

The seasonal trend in general had a normal course. During the summer the temperatures remained quite cool with some modest amounts of rain. Even in the autumn period the weather remained sunny. The almost total absence of rain favoured the ripening of the grapes. The wine shows a slight evolution, especially if compared to the previous wines. However, the acidity remains present and gives a freshness that softens the matter where extraction and body are not lacking. On the nose are hints of coffee, rust, ripe fruit.

2006

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

Spring began with moderate climate, a bit cold, but a warmer end of May favoured flowering. The summer was divided: the first part had cooler temperatures, the second part was much warmer, with north winds that stressed the plants a lot. The wine is the result of a very modern approach that is not felt in the last few vintages. There is no lack of tannin, the result of an important extraction, while on the nose there is coffee, ripe plum. Slightly astringent finish for the tannic part always in the forefront.

2015

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VIGNA DEL SUOLO

The winter was on average cold and dry. Spring had good rainfall and below average temperatures. Rainy and hot June and very hot summer. Constant ripening thanks to the water reserves and a mild September. The vintage turns out to be excellent in every respect. It is the first year for Vigna del Suolo, a real company cru obtained from the oldest plants on the estate. The wine is very good, with great balance and harmony. Structure is not lacking, however it is tempered by beautiful acidity, by a masterful tannic extraction and by the savoury finish that lengthens the sip a lot. The nose is also an extraordinary bouquet: red fruit and noble resins, blood orange and tobacco leaf...

2016

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VIGNA DEL SUOLO

Regular winter with some cold and snowy days in late February. The spring did not have too many frequent rain showers which led to early budding. In summer the temperatures were optimal with very favourable conditions and interesting thermal excursions. In short, a great vintage that will be remembered. All this is undoubtedly evident in the glass. The nose has an uncommon complexity and, although the main aromas are still the primary ones, you can already note fascinating hints such as Mediterranean maquis shrubland, pine bark, orange peel and a nice floral touch. The mouth is silky, very elegant, everything is harmonious: acidity, tannins and a final savoury note. A great wine that greatly deserves the award as Red of the Year for the Vini d'Italia 2022 Guide.

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relaunched the company both from a production point as well as from a market perspective. Today The company is directed with passion and competence by Bernardino Sani, oenologist and administrator, alongside whom we find Francesco Monari, agronomist. The foundations of this renewed success were laid precisely with the restructuring of the vineyards and the micro-zoning of each parcel. INTERPRETING THE VINEYARDS "We believe that grape vines should not be modelled at will, but that they should be studied, understood, interpreted, respected; we believe that vines should not be shaped, but allowing their expression, narrating a place, a climate, a vintage. 

VERTICAL. BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VIGNA DEL SUOLO

— Argiano Montalcino (SI) - loc. Sant'Angelo in Colle 0577844037 - argiano.net

SUSTAINABILITY PROJECTS Since 2019 Argiano is the first plastic-free company in Montalcino. All disposable plastics have been eliminated. The inspiration comes from a circular model, an approach that starts from recycling separate waste collection, following the Return Rule, i.e. the reuse of company waste such as stalks and prunings, and supports the 4 Rs for the environment: reduce, recover, recycle, reuse. The company practises organic and regenerative agriculture. It believes in the balance of biodiversity and pursues it through practises for soil fertility, naturally assisting with algae, chestnut tannin, propolis and zeolite. Pesticides, even natural ones, are banned. Instead the green light is for sexual confusion and the launch of antagonistic insects. In addition, the bee project with the hives next to the vineyards joins the mycorrhizae and micro-zoning project. The latter in particular allows specific and targeted approaches, as there are different micro-zones within the individual vineyards.

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Group photo of the participants in the vertical. From left: Giuseppe Garozzo Zannini Quirini (@agrodolce.it - @jamesmagazine.it - @vinodabere, Rome), Alexandr Smirnov (Wine Weekly Newspaper - Provina.ru), Michael Godel (WineAlign.com), Olga Pinevich-Todoriuk (Drinks+ Magazine), Marco Sabellico, Bernardino Sani (oenologist and managing director Argiano), Michal Setka (Wine & Degustation), Veronika Crecelius (Weinwirtschaft), Masakatsu Ikeda (gustitaweb.com), Lorenzo Ruggeri, Gianni Fabrizio, Giuseppe Carrus and James Valentino (General Manager Argiano Dimore)

MARCH-APRIL 2022

STORIES

This is what Good Agriculture is for us," reads the company website. These are the words of Bernardino Sani and Francesco Monari that clarify the production philosophy carried out for the past fifteen years. Ideas that are undoubtedly found in the wines produced, starting with Vigna del Suolo, a real company cru. For years the grapes from this plot, which is now 55 years old, flowed into the Brunello, but with the 2015 vintage the new label of the selection was born. «They are the oldest vineyards of the estate - Bernardino tells us - and with our arrival in '14 we immediately realised that they deserved a separate vinification: they are located at 320 metres above sea level, on soils of clayey-calcareous marl, a land rich in skeleton and in fossils, that bring us back to when this was a seabed. The ideal

soil to fully express the character of our ancient Sangiovese grosso clones, thanks to the acidic and savoury profile that it imparts to the wines.» 2015-2016, TWO EXCELLENT VINTAGES After the excellent 2015 harvest, played more on characteristics of fullness and volume, without neglecting the aromatic and gustatory finesse, here is a dazzling 2016 that is impressive thanks to elegance and expressive depth. Undoubtedly, the balance of the vintage (in terms of climate) surely contributed, but to this is added a careful selection of the grapes (only some of the vineyard parcels converge on this label). The rest is done in the cellar in full respect of what the rows have produced: long

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maturation in 15-hectolitre Allier oak barrels (with the 2016 also ovoid barrels were used) and a necessary stop in the bottle that completed and prepared it for facing the market and the challenge of time. The Vini d’Italia 2022 guide crowned the wine with the Red of the Year award, one of the most prestigious special awards given to wine, but also to the history that this winery boasts. A story that has brought Montalcino to the world through wines that will have a lot to say in the future, as well. Proof of this comes from a number of old vintages, which we had the honour and pleasure of tasting and which we propose in the following notes. A proof that shows how much Brunello di Montalcino – for some time – has not been afraid of aging. 

WebT V

www.gamberorosso.tv

THE DISCREET CHARM OF COLLI BERICI A TERRITORY TO DISCOVER, FULL OF SURPRISES The Colli Berici - like a hilly island that stands out in the plain between Vicenza and Padua - has maintained a secluded, almost shy character in the frenetic world of mass tourism and wine communication. The positive side of all this is that this area preserves its landscape charm intact, made up of forests, vineyards, cultivated fields, scattered with small well-kept towns and Palladian villas. A corner of Italy to be discovered

by Giuseppe Carrus, Gianni Fabrizio, Marco Sabellico infographics by Alessandro Naldi

Initiative funded by the Veneto Rural Development Program 2014-2020 Body responsible for information: Consortium for the Protection of Colli Berici and Vicenza Wines

STORIES

t may be because the extent of the vineyards is neither large nor small (3,000 hectares of vineyards), or perhaps because the neighbouring denominations, such as Valpolicella, Soave, Conegliano Valdobbiadene or Bardolino make more "noise" and mostly other figures, the fact remains that the district of the Colli Berici - a sort of hilly island that stands out in the plain between Vicenza and Padua has maintained a secluded, almost shy character in the frenetic world of mass communication. The positive side of all this is that this territory preserves its landscape's charm intact, made up of forests, vineyards, cultivated fields, scattered with small well-kept centres and twenty-four Palladian villas that together with the twenty-three palaces of the city

Colli Berici is a tourist and food and wine destination that deserves to be better known. The area possesses something unique, peculiar, which is hardly possible to find in more noble wine areas of Vicenza are historically part of the area's UNESCO World Heritage Sites. TOURIST AND FOOD AND WINE DESTINATION The Colli Berici area is a tourist and food and wine destination that deserves to be better known. It has something unique, peculiar, which you will hardly find elsewhere. Firstly, the terroir, with a great wine vocation. The soils of the vineyards derive mainly from marly limestone,

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calcareous conglomerates, red clays and basaltic rocks of volcanic origin. The altitude of the vineyards, which reach up to 500 metres above sea level, is in a position that on the one hand is linked to the pre-Alpine system and on the other is affected by the influences of the nearby Adriatic, which mitigates extreme temperature fluctuations at night, both seasonally and in the day cycle. The orientation of the hilly slopes must also be considered: some - those to

the north-east - are exposed to the locally named "bora" wind, which can make the climate harsh and subject to sudden changes during the winter. But each valley, each hillside has its own microclimate, influenced by the exposure, from the presence of woodlands, from the presence of more or less wide valleys. A soft and varied landscape, in short, with a mild climate and low rainfall, which is the cradle of biodiversity, with vineyards elbowing the forests and olive groves in a picturesque alternation. AN EXCELLENT TERROIR Everything contributes to making the Colli Berici an excellent wine area. Especially for producing great red wines. But this is not a new story: cabernet franc, for example, which is at home here, was the first

to receive the Doc. The red tai (which is none other than cannonau, or grenache, or garnacha) is one of the most common red grapes here, but carmenère (once confused with cabernet franc) is gaining space, while cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir are grown in the area, with excellent results since the early 19th century, when the territory was under the Austrian Empire. And among the whites, if garganega is the genius loci, pinot bianco and grigio, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and incrocio Manzoni complete a truly complex palette. ZONING AND LAND USE MANUAL Per Finally, in order to guide wine growers and producers to better express the combination of grapes 

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1. The vineyards of the Colli Berici hills around the town of Brendola (photo by Claudio Portinari) 2. Piepaolo Cielo in front of the Palladian Villa Da Porto (La Favorita) which will soon be home to the Cielo e Terra winery (photo by Andrea Ruggeri) 3. The landscape among the vineyards near Barbarano (photo by Stefano Tambalo) 4. The group of tasters who tasted the wines of the Colli Berici, in the frescoed room inside Villa Valmarana Ai Nani. From left: Mattia Cavazza, Nicola Dal Maso, Giovanni Ponchia, Gianni Fabrizio, Marcella Toffano, Tomaso Piovene Porto Godi, Marco Sabellico, Giuseppe Carrus, Matteo Franchetto and Matteo Inama (photo by Andrea Ruggeri) In the opening, a suggestive overview of the Colli Berici hills (photo by Mauro Fermariello)

STORIES

5 PROTAGONIST GRAPE VARIETIES

1 Cabernet Sauvignon Around 1830-1840 the estates in Costozza passed from the counts of Trento to Prince Ernesto D’Arenberg who began to plant varieties of French origin on the Colli Berici hills. Thanks to him, the Bordeaux vines and various pinots arrived at that time. Cabernet Sauvignon is today the most cultivated red grape variety in the world for the production of wine. Starting from the Costozza area, it spread in the Colli Berici area thanks to the Da Schio family and with about 140 hectares it is today the grape variety with the largest extension in the area.

2 Cabernet Franc The numerous synonyms with which it is known (Vidure, Carmenet, Breton, Achéria) are proof that we are in the presence of an ancient vine for which there is no certainty about origin. Today Cabernet Franc has about 70 hectares in the Colli Berici. The fact that Cabernet

Franc entered the Colli Berici Doc in 1973, the first Cabernet with a designation of origin in Italy, makes us understand how important this area was for the spread of Bordeaux vines in our country.

3 Carménère The "Carmeynere" is an ancient grape of Gironde (spontaneous cross between Cabernet Franc and Gros Cabernet) whose first mention dates back to the second half of the 18th century. This variety has become, together with Tai, one of the two symbolic cultivars of the Colli Berici. Thanks to the efforts of Giulio Da Schio who, at the turn of the 1800s and 1900s, spread the Carménère grape, erroneously called Cabernet Franc italico in the Berici, from his Tenuta di Costozza; today there are about 35 hectares in production.

4 Merlot The first written records, dating back to the second half of the 1700s, refer to the

VOCATION FOR GREAT REDS AND UNCONTAMINATED NATURE The Colli Berici area is located right in the heart of Veneto, detached from the rest of the Piedmont belt that acts as a buffer between the Alps and the Venetian plain. It's precisely this location that influences the climate, with lower rainfall than in the northernmost areas of the province of Vicenza and Veneto region in general. The soils are mainly calcareous of sedimentary origin, a legacy of the geological origin that saw the Berici emerge from the sea by means of the tectonic forces in place in the Eocene era. Thirty million years ago these places appeared as tropical islands, even surrounded by a coral reef. This combination of factors has meant that the attention of winemakers has focused in particular on the production of red wines, which here result structured and with above average alcoholic strengths, with a considerable potential for longevity. From the oenological point of view, the Colli Berici hills are often associated with red Tai, one of the most original and versatile wines of the Veneto wine scene. But it is in particular the "Bordeaux" varieties that represent the real challenge for the producers of this area, and also for those who in recent years have arrived here from other territories, perhaps suited for white or sparkling wine productions, to expand their own production range with red wines, often single-varietal but also in blends, of great elegance and concentration. The untouched forests and the Palladian villas that dot these landscapes represent a further element of charm and attraction, a true corner of paradise immersed in the Veneto region. – Alberto Marchisio, General Director Cantine Vitevis, President Assoenologi Western Veneto

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"Merlau" grown in the Libourne area, not far from Bordeaux. Although it arrived on the Colli Berici hills only towards the end of the 19th century, much later than the other Bordeaux grape varieties, today, with 130 hectares of vineyards it is second only to Cabernet Sauvignon.

5 Tai Rosso By now the genetic correspondence between the Spanish Garnacha, the French Grenache and the Sardinian Cannonau with the Tai or Tocai Rosso is well established. In Colli Berici this grape, known as Tocai Rosso or Tocai di Barbarano, spread in the wake of the experimental post-phylloxera vineyard of Ponte di Barbarano, created in 1926 thanks to the advice of Ernesto Ghiotto. However, its arrival in the area remains mysterious, presumably as early as the 19th century. It produces reds with excellent alcohol content and great softness, due to the mildness of the tannins.

and territory, the Consorzio Tutela Vini dei Colli Berici (which also includes the contiguous Vicenza Doc denomination, born just over twenty years ago) promoted between 2002 and in 2005 a zoning study with Veneto Agricoltura which led to the publication of the Manuale d'uso del Territorio, a fundamental tool for planning the future of the appellation, where classic companies and a new generation of wine producers have taken up the challenge and are determined to place the wines of these hills among the true excellences of Italian oenology. A possible challenge, where the synergies between the companies and the Consortium are fundamental. This, moreover, gathers 26 companies (of which 3 are Social Cellars) which represent over 90% of the

COLLI BERICI

production of the Colli Berici area and practically all of the Vicenza Doc wines. In short, the charge has started, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tai Rosso in the front row (the reds are 63% of the production), but with excellent results also for the whites… Just taste the Sauvignons and Pinot Blancs of the latest harvests to understand what we mean. HOSPITALITY CULTURE Lo Italian consumers have understood this, but a growing export (we are talking about 25% of the total) mainly oriented towards Northern Europe (and with important shares also in the USA and Russia) makes it clear that we are at the dawn of a new phase for this beautiful territory. We spent a few days in the 

THE DOC IN FIGURES

68.000 quintals: 2020-2021 harvest 2021: 1.640.000 bottles (64% red, 36% white) 2021: 575.000 bottles (54% red, 46% white) In Vicenza 26 associated companies (23 private and 3 cooperative wineries) 750 hectares doc Export 25%: Northern Europe, Netherlands, Switzerland, Belgium, USA, Russia ASSOCIATES WINERIES Cà Basso, Cà Rovere, Beato Bartolomeo Breganze, Cantina Mattiello, Cantine dei Colli Berici, Cantine Vitevis, Cavazza, Cielo e Terra, Collis, Costalunga, Da Sagraro, Dal Maso, Del Rèbene, Fattoria Le Vegre, Gianesini Livio, Giannitessari, Inama, Le Pignole, Pegoraro, Piovene Porto Godi, Puntozero, Tenuta Castello di Rubaro - Nani 1967, Tenuta Monte San Giorgio, Tenuta Zai, Villa Montruglio, Vitivinicola Muraro Severino

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STORIES

WHERE TO EAT

ADDRESSES

Altavilla Vicentina (VI)

Ristoranti

VENETO

Cantine

Trattoria Da Berno via Monte Grappa, 70 0444 288688 – daberno.it

Matteo Grandi in Basilica

Arcugnano (VI)

Venezia

Antica Trattoria Moreieta 1890 via Soghe, 35 0444 273311 – moreieta.com Trattoria Zamboni frazione Lapio s.da per il lago di Fimon via Santa Croce, 73 0444 273079 – trattoriazamboni.it

Massimo Gusto Villa Valmarana ai Nani Cicchetteria La Sosta

Trissino

Dal Maso

Barbarano Mossano (VI) Aqua Crua frazione Barbarano Vicentino piazza Calcalusso, 11 0444 776096 – aquacrua.it Da Sagraro località Mossano via Loivaro, 1 0444 886217 - 347 2907072 agriturismodasagraro.com

Lonigo (VI)

Trattoria Da Berno Giannitessari

Nogarazza

Longare Da Isetta

Lapio

Cavazza

Villa Da Schio Trequarti

Mossano

La Peca Sarego San Bonifacio

Da Isetta contrada Pederiva, 96 0444 889521 – trattoriaisetta.com

Lonigo PuntoZero

Trequarti località Spiazzo – piazza del Donatore, 3 0444 889674 – ristorantetrequarti.com

Vicenza

Trattoria Zamboni

La Peca via A. Giovanelli, 2 0444 830214 – lapeca.it

Val Liona (VI)

Da visitare

FuoriModena-Cucina km 200

Antica Trattoria Moreieta 1890

Da Sagraro

Cologna Veneta Inama

FuoriModena - Cucina km

200 contrà San Gaetano da Thiene, 8 0444 330994 – fuorimodena.it Matteo Grandi in Basilica piazza dei Signori, 1 328 1824572 ristorantematteograndi.it

Piovene Porto Godi

Minerbe

Bevilacqua

Ospedaletto Eugaeo

Angiari Aqua Crua

Massimo Gusto viale A. Giuriolo, 17 348 7153044 – massimogusto.it

Legnago

Terrazzo

5 km

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VILLA DA SCHIO AND THE HISTORIC WINE CELLAR Villa Da Schio is one of the most beautiful villas in the Vicenza province. Perfectly preserved and still lived in by Giulio Da Schio (in the case of a visit, it's a real pleasure to have him guide the tour) the Villa owes its importance to the espalier garden, which houses the sculptures of Marinali (1643-1720). In fact, the Villa was the sculptor's studio and his works, created here, now enrich the most beautiful Veneto villas. In addition, adjacent to the villa, there is a deep and suggestive cave which has always been used as a wine cellar. Here, until just over a decade ago, excellent wine was produced. The Guida Vini d’Italia reviewed the latest wines produced in its 2011 edition, a Cabernet Franc and a Cabernet Sauvignon from 2008. The winery still preserves old bottles of wine produced in this area. In fact, wine has been produced here for centuries: it was the Counts of Trento who in the 16th century exploited the fresh air of the caves through the use of ingenious "ventidotti" tunnels thus creating the first form of natural air conditioning. The Da Schio Counts gave impetus to production at the end of the 19th century and in 1910 the Costozza winery was officially founded. The name derives from the Italian term for "custodian" and comes precisely from its quarries in the place from which excellent building stone was extracted. Even today the quarries, given the climatic conditions that are generated, are used as mushroom beds. The entire structure, the garden of great botanical and architectural interest, the interior of the villa and the wine cellar in the caves, is open to the public for guided visits.

Villa Da Schio - Longare (VI) - fraz. Costozza p.zza da Schio, 4 - 0444953195 - costozza-villadaschio.it

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area, divided between visits to wineries, tastings and more tastings, but also visits to historic villas and museums. We have found a territory that's rich in excellence and that is determined to promote them and itself and that is not afraid to confront international oenological Gotha. In short, the Colli Berici hills are ready and organised, also in terms of hospitality, reception and organisation, from classic hotels to a dense network of agriturismo farmhouses and bed and breakfasts, not to mention a refined gastronomic scene rich in typical local products, ready to welcome an Italian and international tourism clientele attentive to the taste for beauty and culture. And we, glass in hand, are convinced that they will have great success.

Colli Berici in 12 wines for 6 cellars STORIES

We visited the six most representative wineries of the area and tasted 12 wines: for each company we tasted the last produced vintage of their label that best expresses the terroir (in some cases they were barrel samples) in addition to an old vintage. Giuseppe Carrus, Gianni Fabrizio and Marco Sabellico participated in the tasting

PUNTOZERO

GIANNITESSARI

INAMA

Young and beautiful reality run by the de' Besi family. Born in 2006, we had to wait a few years to see the first wines in the bottle. The company is located between Lonigo and Sarego and has an estate of about 40 hectares of forests in which there are 11 hectares of vineyards. Seven wines produced, from different grape varieties. A white made from Pinot Bianco grapes (called Trasparenza), the remaining are all reds. There is a classic Bordeaux blend (the Dimezzo), a Cabernet Franc (Idea), the Tai (from red Tai, clone of Grenache), a Carmenere, Virgola made from Syrah grapes and, finally, Punto, which for the company represents the highest territorial expression. Colli Berici Merlot Punto '18 shows a complex nose and great fruit intensity. It is a barrel sample but it looks very promising. The Merlot Punto '13 shows no signs of weakness due to age, the tertiary notes begin to arise, but the fruity and spicy part remains in evidence. The mouth is long, full, deep and with a savoury finish of great charm.

The Gianni Tessari winery extends over many hectares on the border area between the provinces of Vicenza and Verona, precisely within the Soave and Monti Lessini denominations. There was also a bet on the Colli Berici, as evidenced by the beautiful estate. Here the most cultivated grapes are the Bordeaux varieties, which go alongside the traditional Tai Rosso. The company has 50 hectares of vineyards for a production of around 350,000 bottles. Our tasting focused on Colli Berici Rosso Pianalto '17, made from cabernet sauvignon, merlot, carmenere and tai rosso grapes, a still very young wine slightly marked by the aromatic oak. The mouth is warm and powerful, but everything is well dampened by acid freshness and a savoury finish. Colli Berici Rosso Pianalto '13 (from cabernet, merlot and carmenere) is spicy and with touches of wild berries, the mouth is creamy and enveloping and the finish is full.

Giuseppe Inama started his winery more than half a century ago, first on the hills of the classic Soave and later, by the will of his son Stefano, in the heart of the Colli Berici, quickly becoming a point of reference for both denominations. Today, alongside Stefano, there are his sons Matteo, Alessio and Luca who make a decisive contribution to directing the path of the company, which is increasingly devoted to reducing environmental impact and producing wines that embody the territory of origin. For Inama, the most representative wine of the Colli Berici is the Oratorio di San Lorenzo, which takes its name from the locality in which it sits. This is a real cru in which only the best grapes are selected. Since 2009 it has been released as a Riserva. We tasted the Colli Berici Carmenere Oratorio di San Lorenzo Riserva 2016, still very young, fascinating in its spicy, undergrowth and blackberry aromas, with an agile and snappy mouth, but also pulpy and thick. The Colli Berici Carmenere Oratorio di San Lorenzo Riserva 2009 doesn't appear to be afraid of ageing, the nose grows in complexity, does not abandon the fruit and is enriched with notes of pepper, noble resins, pine bark and tobacco; the mouth is vibrant with freshness and a clean, deep finish.

PuntoZero Lonigo (VI) via Monte Palù, 1 049659881 - puntozerowine.it

Giannitessari Roncà (VR) via Prandi, 10 0457460070 giannitessari.wine

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Inama San Bonifacio (VR) loc. Biacche, 50 0456104343 - inama.wine

COLLI BERICI

PIOVENE PORTO GODI

DAL MASO

CAVAZZA

L’Tomaso Piovene's company is located on the south-eastern side of the Colli Berici hills, where the only rocky walls are located. We are talking about more than 200 hectares dedicated to arable land, woods and olive groves, complemented by about forty hectares of vineyards. The area, extremely hot and dry, guarantees continuous maturation of the Bordeaux grape varieties, giving life to a production that has its distinctive trait in the fullness of the sip. The winery produces about 120,000 bottles and also includes an agriturismo farmhouse where guests can enjoy tastings and taste typical products. The winery has always focused on Tai Rosso, a clone of Grenache that arrived here centuries ago and that is now well acclimatised. Delicious, in our tasting, the fresh and fragrant Colli Berici Tai Rosso Thovara '19, with notes of rose, blackberry and currant, with a touch of sweet spices and floral hints. The fruit is ripe, but crisp, the acid shoulder is not lacking and the finish is very clean. We are less fortunate with the Colli Berici Tal Rosso Thovara '03, this bottle is not in very good shape, understandable after almost twenty years. The beauty of wine is also this. The rest of the range is superb.

Now close to celebrating half a century of life, the winery founded by Luigino Dal Maso is an absolute reference point for enthusiasts who explore the territories of Gambellara, Lessinia and, last but not least, the Colli Berici. Nicola together with sisters Silvia and Anna has transformed a winery dedicated to the production of simple and everyday wines into one that enhances the territory. In all there are 30 hectares of vineyards for a production of around 300,000 bottles. The area is characterised by reds with great body and character, as demonstrated by the Colli Berici Merlot Casara Roveri '19 that's rich and multifaceted, with aromas of ripe cherry and plum. The mouth combines power with freshness and acidity and is always well integrated with the material. Silky tannins and a savoury finish complete the tasting. The Colli Berici Merlot Casara Roveri '02 stands the test of time very well, the tertiary aromas are there (between wet earth, cigar, noble resins) but the fruit is still present (especially the berries). The mouth is silky and fine, long and of excellent progression.

The Montebello winery, founded by

Dal Maso Montebello Vicentino (VI) c.da Selva, 62 0444649104 dalmasovini.com

of great charm, still vital and agile in

Giovanni Cavazza almost a century ago, is distributed between the Gambellara area, where the Garganega grape dominates, as well as the nearby Colli Berici. Today the fourth generation manages the vast vineyards, the production in the cellar and the marketing side of the business, following a style that oscillates between the finesse of the whites and the sunny richness of the reds. The company produces almost 800,000 bottles, thanks to the 135 hectares of vineyards. In the Colli Berici hills, the focus is on red varieties, starting with the prestigious Cabernet which here, as we have seen, has long since acclimatised to perfection. The Cicogna line includes four labels and represents the "distillation of a terroir" for the company. Colli Berici Cabernet Cicogna '16 is truly intriguing: with the complicity of a great vintage we have a fresh and mentholated red, long and with an elegant and savoury finish. The surprise, however, comes from Colli Berici Cabernet Cicogna '91: after thirty years it is still a wine terms of freshness, with a slight tannic perception and a finish all played on flavour. The nose is a kaleidoscope of aromas: the tertiaries give spici-

Piovene Porto Godi Villaga (VI) fraz. Toara di Villaga via Villa, 14 0444885142 piovene.com

ness and undergrowth, while there is a pinch of primarity that reminds us of the fruit. Truly memorable. GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

Cavazza Montebello Vicentino (VI) c.da Selva, 22 0444649166 - cavazzawine.com

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THE FIRST THIRTY YEARS OF CABERNET FREIENFELD WINE-MASTERPIECE OF CANTINA KURTATSCH by Gianni Fabrizio

of both the quantitative and qualitative growth of Cabernet Freienfeld for all these years. Everything that has been done in these thirty years, working both in the vineyard and in the cellar, has had the aim of giving pulp, fullness and shoulder to Freienfeld, removing or, at least, damping down the green and vegetal part: thickening the vineyards, all espalier, effectively eliminating the traditional pergola; control of yields (65 quintals per hectare); the search for optimal grape maturity (without disdaining any slight over-ripening) and a careful selection of the bunches. Even in the cellar all operations are aimed at improving the Freienfeld: manic attention to the de-stemming phase, maceration and separate refining of the various. Furthermore, Othmar aims for long macerations in steel tanks for about three weeks, with temperatures up to 32°C (in view of a greater polyphenolic extraction), then stabilised at 28°C. At this point, not infrequently a bit of pressing is included in the assembly. Subsequently, before resting in barrique, the wine passes through large oak barrels where the malolactic fermentation takes place. Over the years, with the increase in the concentration of wine, the percentage of new barriques has increased, which today can range from 50 to 70%. After about fifteen months in small oak barrels, the wine returns for a further 6-9 months in large oak ones before being bottled and finally sold three years after the harvest 

The time has come to restore dignity to Bassa Atesina, that is to say that area which, following the wine route, goes from Termeno to the linguistic frontier of the autonomous province of Trento. Here, in the Bassa Atesina, the milder climate compared to the northernmost areas of the autonomous province and the gravelly and clayey soils favour the cultivation of red grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Lagrein. Cantina Kurtatsch, i.e. Cantina Cooperativa di Cortaccia, founded in 1900, can now count on 190 suppliers and about 190 hectares of vineyards located between 220 and 900 metres above sea level and for over 70% within the municipality of Cortaccia. Strengthened by these climatic and pedological diversities that arise from such a rich and varied territory, Cantina di Cortaccia, under the presidency of Andreas Kofler, is completing an important internal zoning with the aim of giving each variety the terroir where it can express its max potential. In truth, part of this work began in the mid-1980s, when the then technical staff became aware of the need to produce an important red from French grapes, Cabernet, firstly. The first espalier vineyard was then planted, choosing the best clones of Cabernet Sauvignon on pebbly calcareous soils: from this first quality system, Cabernet Freienfeld 1988 was born in 1990, one of the first ambitious Cabernets in South Tyrol. It took its name from Freienfeld, a historic Renaissance estate that was the first seat of the winery from 1900 to 1923. Today, the estate is still used as a barrel cellar, as a historical archive, with the collection of old vintages, and as a representative venue. From these first bottles, after 20 vintages produced and labelled over thirty years, there’s now 8-10,000 bottles today. From a few thousand initial square metres to the 12 hectares of today, all in the municipality of Cortaccia between 220 and 350 metres above sea level. Since 1992, the technical guide of the winery is in the hands of the kellermeister Othmar Donà, who has been the architect

GAMBERO ROSSO

With the release of Freienfeld 2018 on the market, this wine turns thirty: 20 vintages were produced and bottled for 21 different labels, since both Cabernet Freienfeld and Cabernet Freienfeld Riserva were released from the 1990 harvest

MARCH-APRIL 2022

THE VERTICAL - CANTINA COOPERATIVA DI CORTACCIA

Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld 1988 It is the year of the wine’s birth. The eye offers us a not particularly intense garnet colour: the reflections are evolved but still vital. The nose manages to be intense and delicate at the same time, with beautiful green notes but also a touch of damp undergrowth and hay. Even if the wine remains delicate and tends to lose intensity in contact with oxygen, it has great character and beautiful complexity, with aromas that widen to spicy notes in the finish. On the palate the wine is delicate and fresh, with docile tannins and a finish of medium persistence but of great finesse.

Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld 1989 Although, compared to 1988, it is only a year younger, the 1989 Freienfeld remains quite young compared to its predecessor. It retains a rather dense garnet ruby hue. The aromas are intense, with vegetal and green connotations (pepper and grass), and still retain a good varietal character. The palate is a bit monolithic and austere, without the ethereal delicacy and harmony of 1988. The finish, of moderate persistence, shows off a good acidic freshness enhanced by the return of pyrazine notes.

Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld 1990 Also in this case, the appearance retains a bright ruby hue, with a garnet tendency on the nail. With the growing age of the vines and also thanks to the greater thermal sum of the 1990 vintage, considered very hot at the time, the Freienfeld of this vintage rattles off its valid complexity starting from the aromas of red berries, which then go towards undergrowth and subdued green memories. The first Cabernet of a certain power is perceived on the palate, which however remains a bit rigid in the consistent finish.

Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld Ris. 1990 With the Riserva Freienfeld 1990 came one of the first Bassa Atesina Cabernets of superfine class and structure. From the still young dense ruby colour, to the olfactory richness, centred on the vivacity of the berry notes, everything speaks to us of great wine. In addition to the fruit, we find splendid and multifaceted balsamic aromas (pine needles and resin) and intriguing aromas of sweet tobacco. The mouth is rich and pulpy and for the first time offers volume, thanks also to the sweetness of the tannins. It still appears extraordinary in its youth.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

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Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld 1991 After a 1990 Freienfeld Riserva that won us over for its structure and volume, the 1991 vintage gives us a wine built on balance and elegance, where the aromas of currant and pepper travel in unison, enlivened by hints of licorice and soft memories of sweet tobacco: a refined and harmonious Cabernet, despite a slight deficit in character and intensity of sensations. This is followed by a not huge but delicate and enjoyable mouth, where the well polymerized tannins contribute to its pleasant and measured drinkability.

Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld 1992 The 1992 harvest coincides with the arrival in the cellar of Othmar Donà, who made a decisive stylistic shift towards a richer and less vegetal Freienfeld. This 1992 shows a deeper colour. The nose, although not devoid of a slight green vein, lingers more insistently on the fruity aromas, fresh and clear, and on a note of graphite, which gives finesse and complexity. Despite a 1992 harvest that is not to be counted among the most noble, the mouth, still full of youth, is persistent and pulpy.

Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld 1993 The stylistic change that began the previous year took place with greater force in 1993. In a difficult harvest like this one, however, the risk of too much extraction was a threat. As a matter of fact, in that year the Cabernet Freienfeld sports an almost completely impenetrable black ruby look and an intense but decidedly vegetal olfactory phase; the fruit, not very important, struggles to indulge. The wine is large and full-bodied but not very relaxed and the finish tends to harden, leaving a very dry sensation on the palate.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

THE VERTICAL - CANTINA COOPERATIVA DI CORTACCIA

Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld 1995 Born of a balanced harvest, 1995 gave us a Freienfeld who shuns excess. To the eye it has a ruby colour, quite intense, but already rich in garnet reflections, testifying to evolution. The nose suggests a wine that expresses the varietal characteristics with strength and courage. Together with a light vegetal connotation it offers refined aromas of red fruit and pomegranate, followed by sensations of graphite and pine needles, which expand the qualities of complexity and great finesse. On the palate it enters with progressive and balanced tannins, thanks to the support of the pulp, while the finish does not falter and remains young, with a harmonious and aristocratic sip..

Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld 1997 1997 was considered the first vintage in history marked by abnormal heat, not knowing that that would later become the norm. Although born from a torrid harvest, Freienfeld 1997, perfectly made without excess of any kind, is very young to the eye and nose. It shows no signs of evolution and has very pleasant aromas of currant jam and tobacco, enriched by hints of incense and sweet spices; as if by a miracle the pepper aromas have disappeared. The mouth is powerful and harmonious at the same time and great concentration goes hand in hand with freshness. The finish is long and velvety.

Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld 2000 The 2000 Freienfeld has a ruby garnet dress that is not too intense but of good vitality. The nose is also quite intense, but the vegetal notes that emerge after a less clear and slightly reduced phase do not allow it to escape from the simplicity and stereotype of Northern Italian Cabs. The mouth has a good structure, but due to the excess of dry and angular sensations it still cannot reach the desired balance. The finish, very persistent and slightly bitter, gives hope because it improves in contact with air.

On the left, the 20 tasted vintages of Cabernet Freienfeld Above, the barrel room of the Cortaccia winery, the southernmost in the province of Bolzano (photo by Florian Andergassen) In the opening, the splendid tasting room of the South Tyrol winery (photo by Oskar Da Riz)

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

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Alto Adige Cabernet Freienfeld 2002 Obtained from careful selection, the Freienfeld 2002 is affected by the seasonal climate trend during which heat lacked a little. It has a dense garnet ruby colour but does not have the usual brilliance. On the nose the fruit is not lacking, but it remains a little subdued and does not have the usual fresh and clear appearance. Subsequently, aromas of cocoa and cinchona take over, which limit finesse and complexity. The mouth enters pulpy but then becomes severe and rigid, with slightly bitter and oversized tannins compared to the structure. It has length but remains a little tight on the palate. Still very young, it can improve in the bottle.

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld 2006 The Freienfeld 2006, although not among the best ever, achieves an excellent level of quality. It offers a brilliant, limpid and harmonious appearance: beautiful garnet ruby hue. The nose also gives great satisfaction thanks to the measured and harmonious notes of red berries and spices, enriched by notes of sweet tobacco and graphite. Excellent finesse, but the breadth does not have the usual development. The mouth is noted for its harmony and balance, but it does not have the structure of a champion, in the end it lacks a bit of character and genius. An excellent result that favours finesse and drinkability towards depth.

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld 2007 Freienfeld 2007 represents the culmination of a stylistic expression sought and desired by Cantina di Cortaccia. Fortunately, this search for maximum concentration proved to be not very compatible with the climate and terroir of South Tyrol and was therefore abandoned or at least reduced. More than pleasant, the wine impresses with its impenetrable, almost dense black colour and the slightly open character of the nose, which offers aromas of black berries, olive paté and cinchona. The wine is still too young and difficult to understand, but its solid and austere appearance on the palate is not a harbinger of absolute certainties.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

THE VERTICAL - CANTINA COOPERATIVA DI CORTACCIA

Outside the monumental Cortaccia tasting room, the Kurtatsch staff: from left, Paul Tauferer (Sales Director Italy), Harald Cronst (Export & Marketing), Andreas Kofler (President) and Othmar Doná (Oenologist) (photo by Florian Andergassen) Below, a view of Kurtatsch (photo by Philipp Franceschini) On the following page, the tasting. The tasting was attended by: for Gambero Rosso: Marco Sabellico, Gianni Fabrizio, Giuseppe Carrus, Lorenzo Ruggeri, Herbert Taschler. For Cantina Kurtatschù: Andreas Kofler (President), Harald Cronst (Export & Marketing), Othmar Doná (Oenologist)

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld 2009 After 2007, 2009 was another harvest that was sunny and torrid, but in the end this Freienfeld 2009 clearly takes a distance from its predecessor. The appearance is young but shows a ruby hue and a right evolution on the nail, rich in garnet reflections. The nose takes us back to a Cabernet of finesse and harmony, with wonderful and multifaceted hints of tobacco and graphite that accompany the captivating and fresh notes of blackcurrant and blueberry. As evidenced by the happy vintage, the wine possesses volume and pulp on the palate, with dense tannins and a nice savoury sensation. The very long finish and its undoubted ageing potential confirm that we are in the presence of an absolute wine.

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld 2010 Freienfeld 2010 offers a more unique than rare character, which cannot leave us indifferent: either you love it or it is a wine difficult to accept. To a dense ruby dress with a practically non-existent nail, it combines an intense but strange olfactory phase, with initial medicinal notes that can be smelled behind the classic hints of fruit and graphite. The mouth, still a little austere in the tannic texture, has a lot of pulp and the right persistence. But what makes 2010 a unique wine is its strong character which tends towards a salty sensation; harmony and above all complexity are not lacking.

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld 2011 2011, the result of yet another very hot harvest, gives us a Freienfeld that is still a little oversized, with a very young garment of very dense ruby, and with an intense character but not very multifaceted for now (black berries and cocoa). The palate, still a little tight from the tannic texture, denotes a slight over-extraction during the winemaking phase, but appears destined to improve after a correct aging in the glass bottle, which will manage to mitigate its youthful vigour.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

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Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld Riserva 2015 After a few less happy vintages during which Freienfeld was not produced, 2015 opens a golden period for this label which, with the help of Andreas Kofler and Othmar Donà, has reached the age of maturity. Everything contributes to the harmony and balance of the whole, from the dense and young ruby colour – but without excess – to the intense and refined aromas of blackcurrant and dried herbs, but also of tobacco and graphite. The elegant and measured taste, with a centred and progressive tannic texture, also contributes to this small wonder.

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld Riserva 2016 2016 renews the glories of 2015 with a character and elegance bonus, which represents the indelible signature of this well-known harvest. At first the eye confirms the integrity and youth of the dense bright ruby colour. Subsequently, the nose perceives an intense and varied bouquet, where the fruity aromas (currant, blueberry and pomegranate) are combined with balsamic ones (pine needles), enlivened by notes of tobacco and graphite. In the finish there are even brackish memories of iodine. On the palate, the wine is harmonious and without pomp, faithful to its aristocratic character where refined tannins, fruity pulp and tantalising sapidity help to forge one of the great Cabernets of Italy.

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld Riserva 2017 Excellent interpretation of the vintage, certainly better than elsewhere in Italy. It offers intense tones of currants and raspberries, with a mature and enveloping profile, with slightly spicy sensations. The mouth has rhythm and grit, tannin is enveloping and well extracted, while a lively acidic vein accompanies a finish of considerable length and flavour. Still very young, it shows a very solid structure: it has everything to age gracefully and gain complexity over the next few years.

Alto Adige Cabernet Sauvignon Freienfeld Riserva 2018 With the Freienfeld 2018 Cortaccia celebrates its thirty years of history of the first vintage produced. It is a balanced harvest that offers us a Cabernet of great balance and finesse. Obviously, the wine is still very young both on a quick visual examination and on a careful use of the sense of smell, where you can still pick up a residual note of sulfur dioxide that hardens its well-stocked fruity background. In this phase the wine expresses only a small part of its potential and the beautiful dominant black berries slow down the development a bit, limiting complexity. On the palate it is harmonious and vibrant, although still pounding, and has a good final extension.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

ITAL IAN/ EN EDIT GLISH

ION

A guide to the best extra virgin olive oil www.gamberorosso.it

RECIPES

MARIANNA VITALE BORN IN

AGE

RESIDENT IN

Napoli

Pozzuoli (NA)

RESTAURANT NAME

Sud RESTAURANT CONTACTS:

Quarto (NA) via SS. Pietro e Paolo, 8 081 0202708 sudristorante.it

PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE AT

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OWNER PARTNER EMPLOYEE

Il Buco a Sorrento (NA) Palazzo Petrucci a Napoli

SEATS

40 BEST LOVED INGREDIENT

THE IDEA BEHIND MY CUISINE

Gioì Della Bruna

Lemon

AGE OF SOUS CHEF

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None

popular, creative, Neapolitan, local ingredients, zero waste, pleasure as a priority

KITCHEN BRIGADE

THE DISH OF A LIFETIME

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT ABROAD

Frittata of spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino

ONE WINE ABOVE ALL OTHERS

SOUS CHEF

Gioì Della Bruna Raffaella De Sarno Valerio Piccolo Ali Ibrahim Cristiano Verruti IN THE DINING ROOM

Pino Esposito Marika Arcopinto Giuliana Allegretto

Bras in Laguiole (France) Falanghina Campi Flegrei by Contrada Salandra

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Carme Ruscalleda MOST ESTEEMED PEER COLLEAGUE

Too many to mention

SOMMELIER

Pino Esposito HAD I NOT BEEN A CHEF…

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THE DISHES:

Il Poeta che non sa parlare di Nino D'Angelo

Cod cheesecake with fennel served on chickpea purée, confit tomatoes and lemon peel Seafood soup with seasonal vegetables and fruit Spaghetti with sea anemone Mullet baked in foil and anchovy sauce

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by Clara Barra – photos by Antonio Vitale

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

MARIANNA VITALE - SUD

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

RECIPES

Cod cheesecake with fennel pollen served on chickpea purée, confit tomatoes and lemon peel ingredients fot 6 500 g “mussillo” (dorsal part) of cod 300 g ricotta di bufala 100 g chickpea purée 24 whole chickpeas, boiled 6 cherry tomatoes, confit 1 lemon Fennel pollen, powdered Extra virgin olive oil

Cook the cod at 56°C for 12 minutes, peel and set aside. Work the ricotta lightly with a fork. Grease 6 shallow moulds with extra virgin olive oil, sprinkle with the fennel pollen powder, fill with the ricotta, then bake in the oven at 200°C for 10 minutes. Place the chickpea purée at the base of each dish, place the ricotta while still hot in the centre and place the cod on top. Decorate with the whole chickpeas, the tomato diced into small pieces and finish with some lemon zest.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

MARIANNA VITALE - SUD

Seafood soup with seasonal vegetables and fruit ingredients for 4 The fish 200 g mussels 200 g cockles 100 g clams, shelled 80 g white fish 50 g small shrimp 50 g roasted calamari 50 g raw cuttlefish tartare dressed with olive oil, salt and wasabi 40 g baby calamari 30 g marinated mackerel 30 g marinated anchovies 4 boned and seared mullet fillets 4 boiled and roasted octopus, sliced 4 red prawns 4 raw venus clams

The vegetables 30 g potato, boiled 30 g red bell peppers 30 g yellow bell peppers 30 g broccoli, boiled 30 g escarole, pan fried 20 g squash, pan fried 20 g pumpkin, roasted 20 g zucchini, sliced 20 g zucchini, pan fried 20 g zucchini, roasted 20 g aubergine, pan fried 20 g radishes 20 g daikon 20 g raw cabbage 20 g cherry tomatoes 20 g chickpeas, boiled The fruit

10 g crenshaw melon 4 clementine sections 2 orange sections, peeled 1 quarter annurca apple 1 quarter pear 1 kiwi slice 1 strawberry clam water emulsion curly endive sprouts Swiss chard sprouts wild rocket sprouts purple potato powder pea powder olive powder black lemon powder tomato peel powder edible flowers

Cut all the ingredients into small pieces of various shapes and sizes, distribute them harmoniously according to your tastes in 4 soup plates, complete with the clam water emulsion, garnish with the sprouts, flowers and powders before serving.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

RECIPES

Spaghetti with sea anemone ingredienti for 4 360 g spaghettoni single wheat Matt Felicetti 250 g sea anemone 80 g grape tomatoes 2 garlic cloves Extra virgin olive oil Salt Chilli pepper

In a pan, sauté 1 clove of garlic and the chilli pepper in extra virgin olive oil, then add the sea anemone and cook over very low heat until they begin to melt. Add 1 ladle of hot water, purée everything and set aside. In the same pan, brown the other clove of garlic in extra virgin olive oil, then add the halved tomatoes and cook for a few minutes. Boil the spaghetti in plenty of salted water, drain al dente, then transfer to the pan. Toss to coat well, add the anemone emulsion and meld together. Divide the pasta in 4 deep soup plates.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

MARIANNA VITALE - SUD

Mullet baked in foil and anchovy sauce ingredients for 4 4 red mullets each 250 g, filleted and boned 200 g stale bread, toasted 100 g heavy cream 60 g colatura di alici di Cetara anchovy sauce 30 g milk 4 lemon leaves 1 lemon Extra virgin olive oil salt pepper

For the colatura-flavoured bread, blend and sauté in a pan with 30 g of colatura and the zest of ½ a lemon until the liquid is completely absorbed. Keep aside in a dry place. For the colatura cream, mix the cream, milk and the remaining colatura and emulsify everything, whisking by hand. Prepare 4 parchment paper parcels measuring 15 x 30 cm, then insert in each one in order: the lemon leaf, the olive oil, the first half of the mullet, salt, olive oil, the second half of the mullet and more olive oil. Close and cook on a hot plate for 1 minute per side. In each of the 4 dishes serve the packet accompanied by 2 shot glasses, one with the colatura bread and the other with the colatura cream.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

VINI D’ITALIA GAMBERO ROSSO

TASTING NOTES Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Rossi are the pride of Vini d’Italia. Small productions up against prestigious best sellers, in a review that involves the best labels tasted from our experts: we share them in this new column with our tasting notes

PIEDMONT Amalia Cascina in Langa

Bric Castelvej – Domenico Gallino

Vinchio Vaglio CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE. N. 1308/2013. CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013.

CASCINA IN LANGA

loc. Sant’Anna, 85 Cuneo 0173789013 cascinaamalia.it Exquisite hospitality in a beautiful, elegantly restored farmhouse and increasingly convincing wines every year: these are the strengths that the Boffa family presents to wine tourists. All this comes from a great passion, from a panoramic position and from precious agronomic and oenological consultants, able to make the beautiful vineyards of the property express the best. The fulcrum of the proposal comes from the Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Le Coste and Bussia crus, but also the Sant’Anna area, where the winery and the delightful family bed & breakfast are located, which has always been famous for the production of excellent Dolcetto and Barbera grapes. BAROLO LE COSTE DI MONFORTE ‘17 Penetrating, with very fresh fruit and tobacco lending elegance. The mouth has a fair body and pleasant acidity, with a good 15 austerity that is offset by the consistency of the pulp.

via Castelvecchio, 70 Canale (CN) 017398108 briccastelvej.com Mario Repellino and his son Cristiano manage this historic winery in Roero. The vineyards are located in the municipality of Canale, on sandy soils, with inserts of silt and limestone clays, typical of this area, and mainly see the presence of arneis, barbera and nebbiolo, with small quantities of other grape varieties, both native and international. The wines produced are well made from a technical point of view, with a traditional setting and particular attention to aromatic clarity.

reg. San Pancrazio, 1 s.da prov.le 40, km 3,75 Vinchio (AT) 0141 950903 vinchio.com President and Vice President must necessarily belong to Vinchio and Vaglio Serra: evidence of an ancient rivalry between two municipalities in the Monferrato area with a deep-rooted agricultural vocation, largely overcome thanks to the Viticoltori Associati associated winegrowers association. A success story testified by the current numbers, which include approximately 200 members (also from neighbouring areas) who contribute to an incredible battery divided into various lines and about fifty labels, with Barbera as the centre

ROERO PANERA ALTA RIS. ‘18 Well made wine, with tones of violet, spice and black fruits, with nuances of tobacco and licorice, and a juicy palate despite the tannins that are still a little evident.

BARBERA D’ASTI SUP. I TRE VESCOVI ‘19 Possesses intense fruity aromas of wet soil and spice, while the palate is long and with a good balance between alcohol, acidity and pulp.

2017

% vol

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TASTING NOTES

BARBERA D’ASTI V. V. 50° ‘19 Has beautiful notes of cherry and tobacco, wet soil and china root, it is powerful but also balanced, rich in fruit and with good acidity.

Vite Colte CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE. N. 1308/2013. CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013.

via Bergesia, 6 Barolo (CN) 0173564611 vitecolte.it The Vite Colte project, the leading production line of Terre da Vino, a cooperative founded in 1980, is proceeding at full speed. The 180 members involved take care of a 300-hectare vineyard following a scrupulous agronomic protocol. This allows it to maintain very high quality standards for the production of labels which, harvest after harvest, are increasingly faithful to the area’s territorial characteristics. The very wide range includes Barolo from the municipalities of Barolo, Monforte and Serralunga d’Alba, but also Dolcetto, Gavi, Roero Arneis and Moscato Passito and, of course, Barbera, just to name a few. BARBERA D’ASTI SUP. LA LUNA E I FALÒ ‘19 Worthy of Tre Bicchieri is a wine rich in fruity and toasted sensations, made intriguing by almost balsamic suggestions. On the palate it is deep and enveloping, with a velvety tannic texture and spicy suggestions.

TRENTINO Toblino

fraz. Sarche via Longa, 1 Madruzzo (TN) 0461564168 toblino.it The basin that guards Lake Toblino is considered one of the most evocative natural surroundings of the Dolomites. This is thanks to its geographical location, set between peaks that lead to the Brenta, where there are rocky walls surrounded by orderly rows of grapevines. Almost all are grown, with organic criteria, by the winegrowers of the local cooperative winery, Toblino. A cooperative in the forefront, both for the quality of its wines - a really important range - and for a structure that leaves room for a well-stocked wine shop and a prestigious restaurant.

ALTO ADIGE Cantina Convento Muri-Gries

p.za Gries, 21 Bolzano/Bozen 0471282287 muri-gries.com The days when Piazza Gries in Bolzano was the centre of a small agricultural village are long gone. Today it is included in an urbanised context that alternates newer constructions with older profiles of the area’s first houses. This is the context in which the Cantina Convento of Muri Gries stands. The custodian of vineyards and knowledge that have never abandoned this chosen place. The technical helm is always held by Cristian Werth, who reports directly to the Abbot by managing an important vineyard park, consisting of many of the city parcels still present, together with those of Appiano. A. A. LAGREIN V. KLOSTERANGER RIS. ‘16

TRENTINO NOSIOLA LARGILLER ‘13 This wine truly surprised us, a white aged in large barrels that is intense and complex, with aromatic nuances reminiscent of green apple, broom and lime, characterised by a slightly nutty finish, but above all with still a lot of life in it.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

The beating heart of the company remains the Klosteranger vineyard in the centre of Gries, inside the walls of the Convent, which supplies the grapes for a Lagrein Riserva ‘16 that is applause-worthy: deep, layered and slow to indulge, it combines power and elegance.

VINI D’ITALIA GAMBERO ROSSO

Elena Walch

Cantina Meran

VENETO Pietro Zardini

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE. N. 1308/2013. CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013.

via Cantina, 9 Marlengo/Marling (BZ) 0473447137 cantinamerano.it As often happens in the world of Alto Adige/South Tyrol cooperation, the wineries we know today are the result of the fusion of smaller realities of the past that gravitate around the country of origin. This is also the case for Cantina Meran, born from the marriage between historical brands such as Cantina Vini Merano and Cantina Burggräffler. A project that is more than ever the protagonist of the territory enclosed between Merano and Val Venosta thanks to the more than 300 members working on vineyards that reach up to 900 metres above sea level. This is a viticultural platform at the base of a production that has as the distinctive trait finesse. A. A. PINOT BIANCO TYROL RIS. ‘19 From the 2019 harvest comes a great champion. Tyrol, a Pinot Bianco Riserva conquers for its finesse of aromas of white fruit and flowers, with soft toasted nuances in the background.

via A. Hofer, 1 Termeno/Tramin 0471860172 elenawalch.com We cannot talk about Elena Walch’s company without referring to its splendid vineyards: a reality inserted in the agricultural fabric of the lower part of the Alto Adige for generations, and which has contributed significantly to the qualitative growth of Italian wine. There are over 60 hectares scattered throughout this territory, with two real gems represented by the Kastelaz and Castel Ringberg estates. The former represents a unique pedoclimatic reality with its southern exposure, the latter extends instead for about twenty hectares and represents the heart of the production project. A. A. BIANCO GRANDE CUVÉE BEYOND THE CLOUDS ‘19 This year we appreciated the harmony of this white that manages to combine varietal immediacy (the predominance of the grapes is chardonnay) with complexity usually enhanced by ageing, resulting as elegant and very long.

A. A. PINOT BIANCO KRISTALLBERG ‘19 Very fresh on the nose, with elegant notes of magnolia and jasmine, which also leave room for nuances of citrus and mowed lawn; on tasting it reveals a savoury, juicy and full-bodied sip.

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MARCH-APRIL 2022

via Don P. Fantoni, 3 San Pietro in Cariano (VR) 0456800989 pietrozardini.it The long wandering among vineyards and cellars has allowed Pietro Zardini not only to deeply know the territory, its grapes and its traditions, but also to elaborate complex and articulated thoughts on what the wines of this appellation can express. The viticultural platform is distributed over several plots, with Mattonara and Valfiorita representing the best property exposure, largely dedicated to historical vines and with rare intrusions of international grapes. The style finds its fulcrum in complexity. AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. LEONE ZARDINI RIS. ‘15 A Riserva that expresses the most traditional soul of the variety, characterised by deep and complex aromas where the fruit is tightly linked to fine herbs, spices and minerality nuances. On the palate the balance between alcohol, tannins and acidity is complete, and the wine conquers for its harmony and power.

TASTING NOTES

TUSCANY Camigliano

LAZIO Villa Simone

PUGLIA Menhir Salento

loc. Camigliano via d’Ingresso, 2 Montalcino (SI) 0577844068 - camigliano.it Historical toponym of the western sector of Montalcino, Camigliano is a veritable outpost literally immersed in the Mediterranean maquis biome, in an area that already receives the influence of the sea and transmits it in warm, enveloping and fleshy Sangiovese. The Ghezzi family has made it their operational nucleus, taking care of the remodelling of the village since the 1950s. Made with the contribution of the parcels of Poggiaccio, Poderuccio, Magia and Poggiarello, the three Brunellos of the house (“vintage”, Riserva and Paesaggio Inatteso selection) are aged in medium and large French oak barrels.

via Frascati Colonna, 29 Monte Porzio Catone (RM) 069449717 villasimone.it In the early 1980s Piero Costantini acquired the historic company once owned by Cardinal Pallotta. Today Lorenzo Costantini manages the winery and relies on the company’s vineyards located on hilly terrain, at an altitude ranging from 300 to 550 metres above sea level, of volcanic origin, with veins of lava rock and rich in potassium. The white grapes used for the Frascati, Malvasia del Lazio, Malvasia di Candia, Trebbiano, Bombino and Greco were accompanied by red grapes such as Cesanese, Syrah and Sangiovese.

via Salvatore Negro Bagnolo del Salento (LE) 0836818199 menhirsalento.it Gaetano Marangelli, patron of Menhir Salento, a winery founded in the early 2000s, counts on approximately fifty hectares scattered between Bagnolo di Lecce and Minervino: true viticultural heritage. However, the project does not end with the production of wine, but rather embraces the food and wine sector of this magical territory at 360 degrees. And so in addition to the wine cellar, Gaetano has created an Osteria in the heart of Minervino called Origano, which offers exquisitely territorial dishes with a proposal that tends to enhance tradition and ingredients, many of which are self-produced.

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE. N. 1308/2013. CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013.

FRASCATI SUP. VIGN. FILONARDI RIS. ‘19 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ‘16 Among the company labels this stands out and shows off a complex olfactory profile that moves between notes of ripe cherries, aromatic herbs and smoky notes. On the palate it is rich in pulp, with subtle and refined tannins.

The most important company cru returns to the top. This wine shows typical hints of sage and rose, with beautiful notes of grains and almonds, for a palate of beautiful freshness and persistence, with tones of citrus and aromatic herbs.

QUOTA 29 PRIMITIVO ‘20 This wine stands out in this year’s extensive company range. The 2020 version is characterised by aromas of black stone fruits and Mediterranean maquis, followed by a palate of marked freshness that’s clear and pleasant.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO PAESAGGIO INATTESO ‘16 Il Born from a vineyard of about two hectares growing on the best exposed property land. The 2016 version we tasted for the Vini d’Italia 2022 Guide is still very young, but the grace of the bouquet, played with red fruits and spices, and the texture of the tannin are the prelude to a great future.

TASTING NOTES

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MARCH-APRIL 2022

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WORLD WINES

WORLD WINES Foreign labels tasted, explained and evaluated by the Gambero Rosso wine tasters by Marco Sabellico, Gianni Fabrizio, Giuseppe Carrus, Lorenzo Ruggeri, William Pregentelli

ARNOULD MICHEL & FILS – Champagne La Grande Cuvée Champagne, France euro 66.00 distributed by Balan

With marked aromatic freshness, this cuvée is produced from a blend of pinot noir (70%) and chardonnay (30%) grapes, which remain for a minimum of 36 months in the bottle. The aromas refer to citrus, flint and white flowers, with a more mature background of apples and spices. On the palate it shows a vivid and vibrant vein of lime and mandarin notes, marked acidity and a long balsamic finish, with returns of apple and small red fruits.

DOMAINE DE LA VOUGERAIE – Bourgogne Chardonnay Terres de Famille ‘18 Borgogna, France domaine delavougeraie.com euro 39.00 distribuitrf by Sarzi Amadè

We were not fully convinced by the taste of this vintage produced by Domaine de la Vougeraie, the result of a targeted selection of Chardonnay grapes that mature in barrique for 12 months, with a small percentage of new oak barrels. The smoky notes are intense: tobacco, butter and vanilla anticipate a warm and enveloping palate, with ripe tones of apple and honey, with a clear finish of almond and walnuts, but also a slight astringency due to the release of tannin by the barrique.

DOMAINE MICHEL NOËLLAT – Savigny Les Beaune ‘13 Borgogna, France domaine-michelnoellat.com euro 59.00 distributed da Proposta Vini

The olfactory profile of this Pinot Noir proposed by Michel Noëllat is of remarkable precision and definition. It ages for about 18 months in barrique; new oak barrels represent only a small percentage. It ranges between fresh tones of anise and mint together with references of small fragrant red fruits, a fine spiciness completes the register. The mouth is fine and creamy, with a particular tannic pleasantness, it offers velvety sensations for a whispered and continuous texture: the finish is long and balanced.

FRANCIS COPPOLA – Diamond Collection Cabernet Sauvignon ‘17 California, Stati Uniti thefamily coppola.com euro 30.00 distributed by Meregalli

We remember with pleasure visiting the cellar of the American director Francis Ford Coppola on his estate in Sonoma County in California, among barrels and film memorabilia. The reinterpretation of his Cabernet Sauvignon from the Diamond Collection line reveals a mature profile of currants and plums, with a well-defined herbaceous vein. The mouth is pleasant, simple and juicy, the fruit is soft, while the finish releases toasted sensations of cacao and black pepper, as well as a fresh balsamic sensation.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

TOP CHARTS

JOSEPH DESRUETS – Champagne Dosage Zéro Premier Cru M&T I Cuvée Nature Champagne, France champagne josephdesruets.fr euro 43.00 distributed by Proposta Vini

The glass contains an idea of coppery reflection which confirms the prevalence of black grapes (40% pinot noir and 20% pinot meunier) over white ones (the balance is of only chardonnay grapes). The effervescence is abundant, tumultuous and carries with it vegetal accents, blood traits, light inflections of aromatic herbs. The mouth reveals flavour and well-sized structure, not very fine in aromatic expression but effective in terms of gastronomic aptitude for matching at the table. Cohesive finish, with a good evolutionary perspective.

PAUL BARA – Champagne Brut Special Club ‘12 Champagne, France champagne paulbara.com euro 95.00 distributed by Bolis

Produced only in the best vintages, Paul Bara’s Cuvée Spécial Club is made up of pinot noir (70%) and chardonnay. The Bouzy maison offers us an amazing 2012 that displays a multifaceted bouquet that goes from the classic sensation of bread crust to lemon jelly, from freshly mowed lawn to dried fruits, from medicinal herbs to almost smoky suggestions. In the mouth all this transforms into a creamy palate, with a great gustatory consistency and at the same time fine and elegant.

PAUL BARA – Champagne Grand Cru Annonciade ‘06 Champagne, France champagne paulbara.com euro 186.00 distributed da Bolis

The Annonciade cuvée is the fruit of the best Bouzy grapes, 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay, aged in barrique for a few months before a very long period in the bottle, in this case 12 years. It offers a wide and mature register, proposing tones of hazelnut, bay leaf and pastry custard. The mouth is rich in matter, developing between tones of honey and vanilla, the carbonic is a fine and continuous breath, for a finish that refers to clear sensations of almond and hazelnut.

PAUL CLOUET – Champagne Bouzy Grand Cru Mv Blanc de Noirs Champagne, France euro 46.00 distributed da Visconti 43

The Clouet family moved to Bouzy, south of the Montagne de Reims, over a century ago. Today Marie-Thérése runs the company created by her grandfather Paul, whose name stands out on the labels of the maison. The Champagne we tasted is a pure Pinot Noir which shows accentuated notes of bread crust, cedar and candied orange. A slight sensation of custard anticipates a pleasantly relaxed mouth despite a rather rich palate.

PICHLER KRUTZLER – Wachau Riesling Loben Trocken ‘19 Wachau, Austria pichler-krutzler.at euro 46.00 distributed da Philarmonica

The appeal of sage, mint and bay leaves is very vivid in this Riesling produced in the eastern part of the Wachau, in what is referred to as the Loibner basin. On the palate it is subtle and creamy, pure in the fruity hints of white peach and lime, with a clean and fresh finish. It will age gracefully for the next 10 years, the acidic and savoury hold are guarantees of a rosy future.

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

VINIMONDO

SECONDÉ-SIMON – Champagne Brut Grand Cru Cuvée Melodie Champagne, France champagne-secondesimon.com euro 66.00 distributed da Première

We find three precious parcels of Ambonnay in this cuvée born from the passion for music of Nicolas and Valérie, a tribute to pinot noir, the protagonist of a selection that matures seven years on the lees, while the dosage is around seven grams per litre. The consistency of this Champagne is particularly convincing, the evolved and mature aspect is very well controlled, with hints of hazelnut, custard and pear. The hints of yeast are inviting, in a beautiful balance between fruity freshness and spices, for a refined and harmonious sip.

SIMONNET-FEBVRE – Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu ‘16 Borgogna, France simonnet-febvre.com euro 37.00 distributed da Bolis

Historically, the Mont de Milieu separated the duchies of Burgundy and Champagne, famous for its southern exposure, with higher temperatures and light for solar and mature wines. This is the case of this 2016 which is proposed on very ripe tones of apricot and peach, with a background of exotic fruits and honey. The mouth is very soft, with buttery sensations and a horizontal development, with references of white pepper and ginger. It lacks a pinch of gustatory freshness.

THIÉNOT – Champagne Brut Champagne, France thienot.com euro 44.00 distributed da Balan

The maison founded by Alain Thiénot in 1985 in Taissy, not far from Reims, is now led by Stanislas and Garance who carry on the company’s work. Fruit of the blend of chardonnay (45%), pinot noir (35%) and pinot meunier (20%), this Brut is a fresh and carefree Champagne that smells of lemongrass and citron peel, citrus sensations made intriguing by a breath of fresh air that’s almost iodized. In the mouth it is smooth, still played on citrus fruits, linear and elegant.

TRENEL – Saint Véran Climat Clos des Poncetys ‘17 Borgogna, France euro 30.00 distributed da Ghilardi

“Only do well what you know well”, this is the motto of the Trenel maison, well stamped on the back label. In this case it’s a single vineyard, the average age of the plants cultivated with chardonnay, according to the organic regime, exceeds 50 years. Inviting aromas of apricot, white pepper and apple anticipate a creamy, warm and enveloping sip, rich in juice and harmony. The development is linear, continuous, without twists but with a very sure weft.

VILLA HUESGEN – Riesling Enkircher Steffensberg Fainherb Kabinett ‘18 Mosella, Germany villahuesgen.com euro 23.00 distributed da Proposta Vini

This Riesling offers a rocky and yet delicate breath, expression of 30-year-old vines cultivated along the famous slopes of Enkircher Steffenbers, in Moselle. Vivid notes of white flowers, peach and flint; the mouth is creamy, soft, with a noticeable sugar residue but also a nice aromatic lightness, for a round and juicy finish. It will certainly benefit from further ageing in the bottle.

tastings by William Pregentelli and Lorenzo Ruggeri

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARCH-APRIL 2022

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