The Italian poker hand of the Classic Method

The taste for the classic binds four great suitable territories: for history, nature of the soil and know-how. These are areas that share problems (increased temperatures, drought and therefore early harvests) but above all strong elements of growth. The confirmation comes from the quality in the glass and from the market, between record numbers and turnovers, for an increasingly vital and competitive landscape.

Franciacorta

Let's start from the shores of Lake Iseo, Franciacorta alone produces about half of the Italian Classic Method, with over 20 million bottles sold in 2021 and even more optimistic forecasts for the end of 2022. Our tastings reveal a new maturity, with a cuvée of increasingly precise territorial adherence and definition. The current trend is called Dosaggio Zero, over 110 samples of the type presented for the Vini d’Italia guide, the cuvées with a long stay in the bottle stand out, starting from the Riserva category which in Franciacorta translates into a long stay on the lees of at least 60 months. But the rethinking of the liqueur d'expedition seems to be good, by extension, also for the Extra Brut and the Brut which seem to us to be more focused than ever today, giving a complete drinkability and immediate pleasure at very competitive prices. Equally interesting is the reflection on Satèn (Blanc de Blancs, minimum 24 months) which faithfully represents the calling card for understanding the company's stylistic hallmark. What's new? A growing number of complex Blanc de Noirs, despite the fact that only 15% of the 3,000 hectares of vineyards are planted with Pinot Noir, a percentage that will reach 20% in the next few years. "Growth is a matter of climate and the market, just look at the international demand for Rosés where we are thinking of revising the specification (today a minimum of 30% of pinot noir is required, Ed.)," comments Silvano Brescianini, President of the Franciacorta Consortium. There is also an important update of the research work of the 90s, a zoning 3.0 "not only will it be a zoning with a tighter mesh, but we will add data on climate and biodiversity." At the moment, in Franciacorta over 2/3 of the denomination is organically farmed.

Oltrep Pavese

Still in Lombardy, we cross the Po river and find ourselves among the beautiful hills of Oltrepò Pavese, the kingdom of pinot noir with its 3,000 hectares of cultivated land. Every year some of the deepest and most vibrant Blanc de Noirs of the Peninsula hail from here, especially from the highest areas with some crus of Valle Versa or Scuro- passo to offer unique gustatory parables for acidic and sapid kick: aromatic richness and rhythm. The dosages too have been revised sharply downwards here, while the cuvées resulting from a prolonged contact on the lees in the bottle and single vineyard debuts are multiplying: the challenge of the future is played out here. Keeping the flag of the territory high is the Rosé version of the DOCG, or Cruasé, with some still little-known pearls of exquisite gastronomic nature. The Achilles heel? The production numbers remain unchanged, in 2021 the denomination was claimed by only 523,000 bottles, +23% compared to 2020, still too few. The majority of wineries offer great cuvées that do not bear any geographical mention. "Finally we are at the turning point for a modification of the DOCG regulations, starting from a Riserva mention that did not exist and which is necessary to differentiate the price level," comments Carlo Veronese, director of the Consortium. "In 2022 we moved a lot in terms of international promotion both with Gambero Rosso and with other partners, we went from America to Japan to Germany. People like the products, the response is excellent, we have to believe in it and work together with our heads down. Many wineries are finally converting to the denomination."

Alta Langa

From Vecchio Piemonte to the production hills of the Alta Langa, we are in an area that embraces 149 towns in the provinces of Cuneo, Asti and Alessandria, with various points of contact with the Oltrepò plots, starting from the dominance of Pinot Noir which accounts for 2/3 of the 350 hectares of vineyards. Peculiarity of the specification? Unlike the other denominations, the DOCG is the result of the obligatory interpretation of a single vintage and has a particularly high entry threshold, a minimum of 30 months on the lees, while for the mention Riserva the stake is only 36 months. A systematic revision of the regulation is also underway among these rows, with the minimum altitude that should be raised to 250 metres above sea level for the vineyards, combined with a marked viticultural vocation of the parcels. While waiting to see the final project, let's go back to the forecasts: the record figure of 3 million cuvées produced will soon be reached. In 20 years the steps forward have been great, now only the last and most difficult leap in quality is missing.

Trentodoc

We close at high altitude with the celebrated mountain bubbles: the Trentodoc. The current situation is excellent, starting from the economic aspect, just think that in 2021 the 64 associated sparkling wine houses achieved a global turnover of 150 million euros (+40% compared to 2021). Within the sector we find the typical regional subdivision, on the one hand the large cooperative groups, on the other a growing range of small winemakers of certain value. In our tastings we see quality growth on both fronts, just pick up the list of Tre Bicchieri where Ferrari stands out together with new entries such as Revì, Letrari pulling the sprint to Maso Martis, and again Moser, Balter and Rotari. These are cuvées with a strong territorial connotation, which feel the mountain and the Dolomites landscape for fragrance and aromatic cleanliness. In total, we are talking about 1,150 hectares of vineyards and a production that in 2021 stood at 12 million bottles sold; 85% is consumed in Italy, with an increasingly widespread distribution.

– by Lorenzo

Ruggeri