Gambit Digital Edition: January 8, 2024 by Gambit New Orleans

January 8-14 2024 Volume 45 Number 2

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CONTENTS

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JAN. 8 — JAN. 14, 2024 VOLUME 45 || NUMBER 2

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Petronius’ new look

The Krewe of Petronius carries on a gay Carnival tradition while reaching out to younger generations

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Carnival collage

The Lone Bellow

The Krewe Mosaique debuts Jan. 13 with French Quarter parade | by Will Coviello CARNIVAL SEASON KEEPS TERESE AIELLO BUSY. She’s founded three parading

krewes, including the swamp-inspired Bayou Babes, the House of Tudorinspired “… and Boleyns,” and the Intergalactic Krewe of Chewbacchus group Darth AF. “When you have krewes, you have to start early with your organizing and putting all your pieces together,” Aiello says. Aiello also is putting pieces together for the new Krewe Mosaique. She’s a co-founder of the new parade, which debuts at 6 p.m. Saturday, Jan. 13, in the French Quarter. Mosaique, which is French for mosaic, is made up of “tiles,” Aiello says. The parade is simply a collage or mosaic of the participating krewes. The maiden voyage has 10 groups, including the Mystic Krewe of Conus, Mondo Kayo, Haus of Thee rising Dragons and more. Mosaique doesn’t have an overall theme, and groups are welcome to participate as they choose, using their own yearly or evergreen concepts. Each participating krewe will be represented by an artistically rendered “tile,” or banner, bearing its logo at the front of the procession. The group is focused on DIy costuming, contraptions and throws, but Mosaique’s plan is to add a parade to Carnival without adding a lot of extra work for participants. “Lots of people are in multiple krewes,” Aiello says. “A lot of us were talking about wanting to do our own thing. Lots of parades have requirements, like to help build things like krewe floats. We were like, can we just parade?” So while Mosaique founders are fans of the many different types of established parades, they’re forgoing some of the norms. There is no royalty, and instead of marching or brass bands, groups that choose to have music can bring their own live or recorded music. The procession will include the Krewe de Mayahuel, which was founded to march on Dia de los Muertos and is named for the Aztec goddess of agave. In Mosaique, it will be led by its Tamojunto drumming group. Aiello’s … and Boleyns will march in Mosaique. The group costumes as historical figures surrounding Anne Boleyn, the Queen of England and second wife of Henry VIII. The group has several Annes, and Aiello will dress as the red Anne of Death. There also is a Henry VIII, an executioner, a Cardinal, a

jester and some townspeople on tricycles decorated as horses. Conus will march in two events this year, including Mosaique and its own Lundi Gras event on the Lafitte Greenway. The krewe was founded in 2021 in homage to a giant traffic cone that appeared in a pothole in uptown. Conus Coneductor and Parade Czar Kento Azegami notes that the group did not create that giant cone, and instead members seek to discern “the message of the one true cone.” Conus has paraded during Carnival, and it also participates in various community service projects, as well as social events where members enjoy the “fellowship of the cone.” Participants dress as the cone inspires them, including a Pothole Jesus last year, and the lineup at Mosaique may include a Cone-an the Barbarian, Azegami says. Membership is open to newcomers, and there’s still time to join for the Lundi Gras event. Also joining Mosaique is Kreweleidoscope. The group changed its concept after being hatched in homage to Dr. Seuss with fanciful musical instruments and contraptions. It will provide its own music in the parade. Participants also include the hATTAS, who are inspired by the Mad Hatter from “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.” The group likes to promote literacy and hand out books as throws, especially banned books. The Krewe of Heavenly Bodies has paraded with Chewbacchus, and it typically carries figures of bodies lit like constellations of stars. The Krewe of nyades is inspired by Greek water nymphs. The environmentally conscious Trashformers, aka the Grounds Krewe, collects recyclables while it parades with lit contraptions. Mondo Kayo is a Caribbean Carnivalinspired group originally founded in 1983. After decades of focusing on its Fat Tuesday walk down St. Charles Avenue, it’s branching out to march in Mosaique as well. The procession begins at St. Ann and n. rampart streets near Armstrong Park. The parade enters the French Quarter on St. Ann and turns on Bourbon Street, making its way around the heart of the district before ending near the ursulines Convent. The group does not have a ball after the parade,

The Americana outfit The Lone Bellow went to Nashville to record “Love Songs for Losers,” a rich blending of folk, country, blues and more in a collection of tunes about negotiating the highs and lows of relationships. Singersongwriter Liz Longley also performs. At 8 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 9, at Tipitina’s. Tickets $25 at tipitinas.com.

The Lone Bellow performs at Tipitina’s on Jan. 9. PROVIDED IMAGE

The ... and Boleyns will parade in the Krewe Mosaique parade. PHOTO PROVIDED BY TERESE AIELLO

but it may have a social event for participating krewes after Carnival, Aiello says. The krewe grabbed what was the only available Saturday night with no competing parade this year. Organizers hope to keep it scheduled the week before Chewbacchus in years with longer Carnival seasons. Aiello will turn around her parade focus quickly, as her Darth AF prepares for Chewbacchus the following week. The group features Darth Daddy, a figure mashing up Darth Vader and a ’70s pimp, Aiello says. The group also includes dancing Vader’s Vixens, and mashups of pop culture figures and Siths. “We had a Bob ross Sith and an Andy Warhol Sith,” Aiello says. “We had two Elvi Siths. A Dolly Parton Sith.” Aiello moved to new Orleans about a decade ago from California, where she worked as an actor. She quickly went from joining a Carnival dance and parading troupe to forming her own groups. Bayou Babes participates in events year-round, including the new Orleans Pride parade and the Krewe of OAK’s Midsummer Mardi Gras. “It seemed to bring so much enjoyment to other people who didn’t seem to fit into other walking krewes,” she says. “I wanted to keep making parading spaces for people to express their creativity.” For information, visit @krewe_ mosaique on Instagram.

Rhapsody in Blue

The Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra honors Edgar “Dooky” Chase in a program featuring music by Duke Ellington and George Gershwin, including “rhapsody in Blue,” which was composed a century ago. The performance includes the orchestra as well as the Marcus roberts Trio, featuring Jason Marsalis and rodney Jordan, as well as vocalist Chase Kamata, granddaughter of Edgar and Leah Chase. Jan. 13, at Orpheum Theater. Tickets $28-$110 via lpomusic.com.

Davell Crawford tribute to Allen Toussaint

Keyboardist Davell Crawford celebrates pianist and producing legend Allen Toussaint on his birthday, Jan. 14. Crawford is joined by Mark Brooks, Alexey Marti and Jermal Watson. At 7:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. Sunday at Snug Harbor. Tickets $30 via snugjazz.com.

Christien Bold

Vocalist Christien Bold has accompanied great players like Ellis Marsalis, Jesse McBride and Wess “Warmdaddy” Anderson, and has performed in a range of styles, from jazz to funk, soul and spoken word. He will lead his own group at 8 p.m. Saturday, Jan. 13, at the George and Joyce Wein Jazz & Heritage Center. Tickets are $10 via jazzandheritage.org.

Brian Regan

In his observational comedy, Brian Regan has made the mundane funny, mining the petty differences between himself and his wife, getting irked by line PAGE 23

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OPENING GAMBIT

NEW ORLEANS NEWS + VIEWS

WOOOHOOO Carnival is here, y’all!

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Culture Aid NOLA, which hosts no-barrier, no-stigma grocery distributions in new Orleans, gave out more than 660,000 pounds of food in 2023, the organization said, with more than 700 volunteers putting in more than 8,600 hours at their events. Culture Aid hosts free walk-up and drive-through grocery pick-ups each Wednesday and Saturday. Find more information at cultureaidnola.org.

A New Orleans police vehicle. STAFF FILE PHOTO

NOPD officer caught smoking drugs on body camera reassigned pending probe A NEW ORLEANS POLICE OFFICER HAS BEEN TAKEN OFF THE STREETS after

New Orleans saw 27 children murdered in 2023, the highest number in the city in at least a decade, The Times-Picayune reported. Overall, the city had a 25% decrease in the number of homicides following 2022’s record high, but of the 193 victims in 2023, nearly one in seven were juveniles.

Orleans Parish Assessor Erroll Williams may have valued thousands of new Orleans properties using sales prices, a method banned by the Louisiana Tax Commission, according to a report by the Louisiana Legislative Auditor. The report found more than 3,800 single- and two-family homes could have been impacted by the method, which typically leads to higher property taxes when compared to similar nearby properties.

he was allegedly caught smoking illegal narcotics last month by his own police body-worn camera, according to Police Department sources and city records. Maurice Bailey, who joined the force in late 2021 fresh out of the police academy, remains on “administrative reassignment” pending the outcome of an investigation by the nOPD’s Public Integrity Bureau, according to nOPD. A supervisor’s review of Bailey’s body-worn camera footage revealed the officer smoking the drugs, sources said. The department declined to provide details of the Dec. 12 misconduct complaint against Bailey, which alleges that he used drugs or alcohol on duty, nOPD records show. nor would the city release the body cam footage, claiming it’s legally exempt from disclosure while the PIB investigation continues. In response to questions about the incident, the department said only that PIB “is investigating a complaint received recently concerning alleged improper activity by an nOPD officer.” Bailey, 27, has been the subject of several other write-ups over his short tenure on the force. Among them were three complaints alleging violations of nOPD policy on body cameras. A week before the latest allegation, he served a one-day

suspension for failing to file a vehicle crash report on time, Civil Service Department records show. Stella Cziment, the new Orleans Independent Police Monitor, said she was aware of the allegations of drug use and praised the nOPD’s response. “I believe they are going to be looking critically at any other work he’s been associated with,” Cziment said, while declining to discuss details. “My understanding of this incident that I can share is it appears the system is working as it’s supposed to work,” she said. “It was caught by a supervisor. The supervisor was reviewing body cam and took the action that needed to be taken.” While Cziment noted the stresses of the job and the need to support officers who struggle, she said allegations of illicit drug use on duty warrant termination if proven. “If there is an officer determined to have used drugs while on duty, there is no room for that individual on this police department,” she said. “It’s an awesome responsibility to be a police officer. your credibility and your integrity has to be in a lot of ways unimpeachable,” Cziment added. “Especially using illegal drugs: how are they acquiring those drugs? And are they putting themselves in a position to be potentially extorted, bribed or manipulated?” Attempts to reach Bailey were not successful. — John Simerman / The Times-Picayune

THE NUMBER OF QUALITY OF LIFE COMPLAINTS RECEIVED BY THE DEPARTMENT OF PUBLIC WORKS, SINCE LAUNCHING ITS ONLINE TRACKING SYSTEM DEC. 19, 2023. As of Jan. 3, DPW has closed 579 of those cases, while 1,119 are still pending. The new “dashboard” tracks residents’ 311 requests to fix common issues including clogged catch basins, potholes, abandoned cars, broken traffic lights and more.

C’EST W H AT

What are you looking forward to the most this Carnival season?

64%

THE FIRST SLICE OF KING CAKE

12%

ALL OF THE WALKING KREWES

20%

THE BIG FLOAT PARADES

SHOWING OFF MY COSTUME

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Gov. John Bel Edwards exits, stage center IN HIS FINAL REMARKS AS GOVERNOR LAST WEEK, JOHN BEL EDWARDS NOTED, “This beautiful melting pot of

cultural gumbo that we are blessed to live in has never been better,” as he leaves office. Given the uncertain future we face as a state, there’s no denying Edwards leaves Louisiana better off than he found it. Weighing Edwards’ successes and failures so soon after the end of his term is tricky business, but, in a number of areas, Edwards deserves his laurels. When he took office in 2016, Louisiana’s books were in shambles thanks to Bobby Jindal’s relentless slashand-burn policies as governor. Louisiana had a $2 billion deficit with nothing to show for it, reserve funds were largely depleted, and shortfalls hobbled the state’s ability to function. During his eight years in office, Edwards turned that grim picture around, finishing with a $300 million budget surplus last year and leaving more than $3 billion in reserve funds. And he did it without massive budget cuts. In fact, he convinced a majority-GOP legislature to spend more in some areas, particularly education. Teachers finally saw pay raises (though more is needed to attract and retain quality educators), and the state once again invested in early childhood education.

On Edwards’ watch, the state passed sweeping criminal justice reforms and slashed the number of incarcerated persons. Those reforms have had a real impact on the lives of thousands of Louisianans, particularly Black men and women. Edwards also led the state through the Covid-19 pandemic. Defying pundits’ predictions of the worst for Louisiana — new Orleans in particular — Edwards beat back repeated efforts by anti-vaccine conspiracy theorists to let Covid run wild. He also saw the state through the 2020 and 2021 hurricane seasons, which devastated much of south Louisiana. recovery continues throughout the region, but there’s no scenario in which the republicans Edwards bested in his two elections would have done nearly as good of a job. On social issues, Edwards’ legacy is mixed. He repeatedly killed some of the worst measures republicans pushed. While statehouses across the South passed increasingly anti-human rights legislation, Louisiana’s rightward tilt was much less severe. For instance, despite his opposition to abortion,

Outgoing Gov. John Bel Edwards PHOTO BY SOPHIA GERMER / THE TIMES-PICAYUNE

Louisiana has yet to implement the most punitive laws passed by other anti-choice states — including attempts to block pregnant people from leaving the state to seek abortion care elsewhere. Edwards also worked with Secretary of State Kyle Ardoin to defeat anti-voting rights measures, many of which easily passed in other states. He also fought anti-trans and anti-LGBTQ+ measures. Sadly, one anti-trans measure became law last year, which highlights the biggest question about Edwards’ time as governor: For all his successes, how many of them will last beyond even this year? republicans are already taking aim at the bipartisan 2017 criminal justice reforms, and they will almost certainly look for places to cut spending on social services. Meanwhile, civil and human rights activists worry a tidal wave of draconian anti-LGBTQ, anti-women, anti-voting rights measures is on the horizon. Time will tell if Edwards’ tenure has a lasting impact on Louisiana, or if it was merely an extended respite from conservatives’ worst excesses.

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Some big stories to watch in 2024

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LAST WEEK IN THIS SPACE, I HAD SOME FUN (I HOPE YOU DID, TOO!) with our

elected leaders by making some tongue-in-cheek predictions about the big political stories we might see in 2024. now it’s time to get serious. 2024 looms large on the national political scene. In addition to a likely (and not universally welcome) rematch between Joe Biden and Donald Trump for the White House, control of the u.S. House and Senate will be up for grabs. The election results will factor bigly for House Speaker Mike Johnson of Benton and Majority Leader Steve Scalise; their influence will wane if Dems take back the House. neither of Louisiana’s u.S. senators will be on the november ballot, and we just concluded our statewide elections in november — but that doesn’t mean we won’t see some interesting elections. This being Louisiana, we first have to tell the backstory. redistricting will be the first big political story of the year. u.S. District Judge Shelly Dick of Baton rouge has ordered state lawmakers to create a second majority-Black congressional district, which will be neither easy nor fun for the majority-republican Legislature. To satisfy the judge — and to prevent her from drawing new districts herself — legislators and newly inaugurated Gov. Jeff Landry must sacrifice one GOP member of Congress. Many expect rep. Garret Graves of Baton rouge to be the odd man out because he endorsed one of Landry’s opponents for governor. We’ll see. Assuming somebody draws new districts, we could see some very interesting congressional elections in november. Meanwhile, Landry and GOP lawmakers will likely devote considerable time and energy waging more culture wars by passing even stricter antiLGBTQ+, anti-trans and anti-library and anti-whatever-else-they-canfind laws. Meanwhile, Louisiana has a host of real problems to deal with. For

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Incoming First Lady Sharon and Gov. Jeff Landry, with New Orleans DA Jason Williams, State Police Chief Robert P. Hodges and AG Liz Murrill PHOTO BY DAVID GRUNFELD / THE TIMES-PICAYUNE

instance, will lawmakers and new Insurance Commish Tim Temple find a way to lower property insurance rates? Temple sure hopes to give it his best. We’ll see how Landry and lawmakers respond. Landry will be in the news all year simply because it’s his first year as governor, but he also has an ambitious agenda. He promised to do something about violent crime in Louisiana’s largest cities, particularly new Orleans. His special session on crime promises to include all sorts of “solutions.” If rolling back the 2017 criminal justice reforms is among them, the longterm results could be costly — both financially and in terms of human lives. Landry also wants State Police to play a bigger role in keeping new Orleans safe, which French Quarter businesses and patrons would welcome if that’s the result. And, of course, new Orleans Mayor LaToya Cantrell will continue to make news. Two of the Crescent City’s hottest new parlor games are predicting which foreign country she’ll visit next and if — and when — the feds will officially put her in their crosshairs. The first game is pure fun, the second is a snipe hunt. I make no predictions on either, despite what I wrote (in jest) last week. Happy new year – and this time I really mean it!

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and root beer during Prohibition, including a brand called Omar root Beer. The brewery closed in the mid-1920s. For a time, the World Bottling Co. relocated its soft drink bottling operation to the Chartres Street facility. It produced many varieties of drinks, including Dr. nut, the almond-flavored concoction made famous in John Kennedy Toole’s novel “A Confederacy of Dunces.” The bottling company closed in the early 1950s. In recent years, the 45,000square-foot Chartres Street property has been used as warehouse space, office space and an interior design studio. Developers now have plans to convert it into a hotel called The Bottle Factory.

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Petronius 2023 King Christophe Jackson and Ball Captain Edward McDaniel as the Duchesse of Chartres.

NEW

PHOTO BY KARLA PHOTOGRAPHY

PETRONIUS How New Orleans’ oldest active gay Carnival krewe is reaching out to the next generation BY K AYLEE POCHE Mardi Gras balls are a krewe’s moment to shine, a chance to finally showcase the stunning costumes they’ve been planning and creating all year. But when Edward McDaniel became ball captain of Krewe of Petronius, the oldest active gay Carnival krewe, he couldn’t help but feel like something was off as he watched people go up and down the ramp to present their costumes to the audience. Under the weight of these heavy costumes, some of which feature large back pieces that span several feet in many directions to form a sort of wearable backdrop, people didn’t look like they were having fun, he says. “These were big ole costumes, and honestly, people looked like they were constipated,” he told Gambit. Though members would only spend a few minutes on stage in costume, it was a long time to hold up such weighty back pieces, while also moving around and navigating a ramp. “If you don’t keep your position and your posture, it will either go forward on you or it will go back on you,” McDaniel says. “So a lot of times you have to have pages just to keep you steady and on your feet.” So for the 2023 ball, McDaniel encouraged costuming members to come up with lighter

costumes for the ball’s theme, “Lest We Forget,” in which they gave their take on a past ball’s theme. It’s one of several changes Petronius, which started in 1961, is making in hopes of attracting younger members to join and keep the tradition of gay Mardi Gras krewes alive. The krewes originally formed to create a safe space for gay people to celebrate Carnival and be themselves, but as times have changed and societal acceptance of the LGBTQ community has grown, there are now other options for queer people to enjoy Carnival season. “If we’re going to survive, we have to evolve and we have to change,” says McDaniel, who joined the krewe in 2020.

Wayne Phillips, curator of Carnival collections at the Louisiana State Museum, says that

Petronius 2023 Queen Portia Michaels PHOTO BY KARLA PHOTOGRAPHY

gay Carnival costumes weren’t always so giant. They started getting bigger in the ’70s and ’80s, as straight krewes were also expanding the size of their costumes. Inspired from his time studying fashion design in New York City, the Krewe of Endymion’s first costume designer Sam Nicholas helped kick off the trend toward larger costumes as the krewe began pushing to become a super krewe. “They wanted grander everything: grander floats, more members, bigger costumes,” Phillips says. At the same time, gay krewes were becoming more prominent in Carnival as a whole and were moving their balls to larger venues,

creating a need for their costumes to be seen from farther distances. And naturally, they were trying to outdo each other and have the best ball. (Afterall, Petronius is named after Roman emperor Nero’s fashion advisor.) “This evolution of the profile and the fact that in the 1980s also you saw the expansion of the number of gay krewes, that meant that they felt that they needed to make even more of a splash with the size of their costumes,” Phillips says. But that has meant a lot of work — often meticulously creating costumes out of solder wire — for a relatively small number of people. Even at their peak in the ’80s, Phillips says some of the krewes had

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10-20 members. Currently, Petronius has around 25, which McDaniel says is good for them. “It’s kind of a balancing act between wanting to be fun and exciting and flamboyant and over the top, but also keeping these krewes going and not putting too much of a burden literally on the backs of the krewe members,” Phillips says. When Petronius members created lighter costumes for their 2023 ball, that meant opting for a Medici-style headpiece — more of a tiara look — or a smaller alternative over a large back piece. For those still wanting to sport a large back piece, member Debra Taylor began experimenting with lighter construction materials, like Styrofoam and pool noodles. The lighter costumes can be less expensive than some of the large costumes, which can end up running between $5,000 to $6,000, McDaniel says. He also says it helps cut down on waste, since many of the costumes are too big to store and eventually end up in the trash if they can’t be repurposed into another costume. But most importantly, members had more room to be themselves on stage. “What I found was that it allowed people more freedom,” McDaniel says. “I think the members appreciate that freedom.”

Vaughn Trudeau, the krewe’s youngest member at 36, took advantage of the movement toward lighter costumes when he presented for the first time at the 2023 ball. Dressed as a bedazzled circus ringleader, he wore a long red sequined jacket, sequined top, a small black feathered back piece, patterned black tights and combat boots. The more manageable costume gave Trudeau the flexibility to steal the show with a self-choreographed dance number to a mashup of Britney Spears’ “Circus” and Janet Jackson’s “Son of a Gun.” His dance background, you might ask? “I mean, I’m gay,” he says. “That’s kind of a dance background.” Trudeau was accompanied by two backup dancers dressed as clowns, though he says he wished he had a dozen dancers. Those dancers were actually backup backup dancers, as his original dancers got Covid the day before the ball, and he had to teach the routine to the new dancers at the last minute. But the show went on without a hitch. “That performance he did was the most-talked about of anyone for the longest time. More people asked me about that than anything,” McDaniel says. “But what I found interesting

was that they may ask about it, but that does not necessarily mean they’re going to allow it at their ball.” And though it was a different style from the rest of the presentations at the ball that year, McDaniel says in the past there have been more performance-based presentations at Petronius balls. Trudeau’s performance wasn’t the only change he brought to the 2023 ball. As a film and TV producer currently working for Live Nation entertainment company, he also saw the opportunity to create video packages of each person who was going to present to play in between presentations, similar to the transition videos at concerts. He felt it would add a more personal touch to the presentations and give even those in the back of the room a chance to see the face of the person pres enting. When filming the videos, many of the members came in a little nervous, Trudeau says, not used to being on camera. But with some direction, he had them striking poses, walking and smoldering in no time. By the end, “they would be like, ‘Oh, that was actually kind of fun,’” he says. After that, Trudeau edited them tightly, adding high-energy music with different cuts on the beat. The announcer would say who was about to present, the screen would come down, the video would play and then the screen would lift to reveal the krewe member on stage. McDaniel says the krewe is also going to start selling commercial spots to play at the beginning of the ball in lieu of ads in the ball programs and could phase out the ball programs altogether.

The effort to rebrand Petronius has been a balancing act because gay Mardi Gras is steeped in tradition, but one that can only live on by bringing in the next generation. Gay krewes started forming in the 1950s and ‘60s. At a time when gay people had little legal rights and violence and police harassment of the LGBTQ community was common, the balls were created to be a safe space where gay people could dress flamboyantly and in drag and just generally be themselves. The balls were invitation only, and the guest list was carefully vetted. Eventually the krewes no longer had to operate under the radar. Their satirical balls spoofing the traditional old-line krewe balls and elaborate costumes grew and became their own part of Carnival. AIDS wiped out all but a few of the gay krewes, and

P H O T O B Y K AT H Y A N D E R S O N

even as the krewes rebuilt and others formed over the last few decades, some of the gay krewes have struggled to get younger members. McDaniel says the average age of the krewe’s members is somewhere between 40 and 60, but they’re starting to get some new members in their 30s. “There’s a lot of time and effort that is made to keep it going because the last thing that any of the longstanding gay krewes want to do is fold,” Phillips says. “They want to keep going and bring in new young membership, but they’ve also learned that they have to evolve in their reasons for being and what they bring to the community.” Petronius hired a marketing firm to make recommendations for the krewe’s brand. The firm advised them to change their logo because they found people couldn’t tell the difference between that logo and other krewes’ logos. Changing the logo was a “huge battle,” McDaniel says, because members were used to it. But ultimately, it was a fight he won. “If we don’t set ourselves apart to have something unique, and no one knows what the hell it is, then what’s the point of having it?” he says. As for the lighter costumes, McDaniel says the krewe supported the adjustment, but that outside the krewe, there were critics. “I think when you go through a process, as Petronius is going through, there are going to be people who do

understand it and support it. And then there are going to be people who don’t, and they question why we’re doing it and believe it’s taking away from the grandeur of a Mardi Gras or you’re just being cheap,” he says. McDaniel says he responds to these comments by telling people “I respect your opinion,” and walking away. “The only opinion, at the end of the day, that matters to me are the members,’” he says. Despite some resistance, Petronius’ status as the oldest active gay krewe puts them in a good position to lead the way in modernizing gay Carnival, according to McDaniel. “If you want to copy me after that, I don’t care,” he says. “But we will be the first to do it.”

Attracting younger members is only the first step. Krewes also need to keep them by listening to their ideas. Trudeau chose to join Petronius because he thought the krewe would be open to his ideas, particularly those involving video. So far, he says, that’s definitely been the case. “They said yes to everything,” he says. AndTrudeau is just getting started. Apart from his video packages, he also wants the krewe to consider moving its ball from the suburbs to Orleans Parish. Additionally, Trudeau thinks elements from Dad’s Ball, a Carnival

Krewe of Petronius’ 2023 ball PHOTO BY KARLA PHOTOGRAPHY

event popular among young queer people, could be incorporated. At Dad’s Ball, which started in 2020, everyone comes in costume versus at a traditional gay ball where only the people on stage wear costumes and the rest dress in formal attire. “I think what younger people want to do is they want to interact,” he says. “They want to wear costumes. They want people to gawk at them and talk about what they’re wearing and reflect on what other people are wearing.” Given the sheer number of events people can choose from on any given weekend night during Carnival, the competition for people’s attention is stiff. “How you can compete with that is you have to make a show that nobody

wants to miss,” Trudeau says. “So it’s trying to get smarter and smarter about experiences that younger people wish to be at, that anyone of any age is still going to enjoy. That’s the challenge.” Still, Phillips says the experience of a gay Carnival ball is unmatched. “It still is one of the best ways that you can be in the community or be accepted into the community and enjoy the fun and flamboyance and unashamed showmanship that you’ll only ever see at a gay ball,” Phillips says. Krewe of Petronius’ 2024 ball will take place on Feb. 3. Members get a select number of ball tickets to give out, but some tables are available for the public to purchase at kreweofpetronius.net.

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The Krewe of Petronius ball in 2009.

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More than a decade ago, Shannon Branford saw a gay couple dressed in elaborate Mardi Gras costumes in the French Quarter. Impressed by the elaborate costumes, she asked to take a photo of them on her Blackberry. They chatted before going their separate ways. Little did she know that brief interaction would forever change how she celebrates Carnival. Working as a nurse practitioner, Branford ran into the couple, Les Falgout and Ray Anderson, again. As Branford cared for Anderson in the hospital over the years, the three of them developed a close friendship. Branford discovered the costumes they were wearing when they first met were from the Krewe of Petronius, New Orleans’ oldest active gay Carnival krewe. She even began attending the krewe’s yearly balls with Falgout and Anderson, who were both members. (Falgout still is a member; Anderson died in 2015.) But it wasn’t until her son Ronnie Bergeron got involved that she decided to officially join Petronius. When Falgout presented his final costume at Petronius’ 2022 ball, he asked Branford if her son would want to join him as a page, assistants who help people get up and down the ramp to show off their often-heavy costumes to ball attendees without falling over. Bergeron, who was 19 at the time, agreed, and he and his friend dressed up as newsboys, with Branford making their costumes. It was his first gay Carnival ball, and he was in awe of how welcoming everyone was. “Growing up realizing I’m gay, it’s one of those things where instead of coming out at one time, I’ve just slowly embraced who I am a little more over the years,” he says. “I think that ball was one of the first times, being in a room full of all these people who are just like, not only accepting of you but embracing (you).” Backstage helping her son and his friend, Branford saw someone who hadn’t finished their costume. Given

Shannon Branford presents at the Krewe of Petronius’ 2023 ball with her son Ronnie Bergeron. PHOTO BY KARLA PHOTOGRAPHY

Ronnie Bergeron and Shannon Branford take a selfie at Petronius’ 2023 ball.

her background creating costumes for Jesuit High School plays, she swiftly pitched in along with others to assist. “I got down on my knees in my ball gown finishing these people’s costumes with hot glue guns and trim,” she says. After that night, joining the krewe was a no-brainer, so Branford did and presented in the following ball with her son by her side as a page in 2023. She dressed up as the Chrysler Building in New York City, and her son wore a sparkly silver bowtie to match. “They let me [present], straight and everything,” she says. “I filled four tables with a bunch of straight people, and they screamed and hollered and had a great time.” Bergeron, who is pursuing a career in acting, also loved being on stage at the ball. They had so much fun that they’re doing it again at the 2024 ball on Feb. 3, with Bergeron planning to help his mom work a little bit of choreography into the performance. But that night also solidified for Bergeron his desire to join the krewe as soon as he was old enough. “It really made me realize that it’s so important having this place that you can go and celebrate Mardi Gras and who you are,” Bergeron says. “I just really wanted to make sure that that carries on, and part of carrying

that on is just keeping the younger people involved.” Now 21, he’ll be able to join the krewe this year and present his own costume at the 2025 ball. In his presentation, Bergeron says he’d love to incorporate singing, which has been done in the past. When he joins, Bergeron will be Petronius’ youngest member by about 15 years, and Ball Captain Edward McDaniel hopes to see more young people get involved as they rebrand the krewe. Bergeron says his mom’s involvement in the krewe means everything to him. “Growing up I always knew that my parents would love me no matter what, but it’s so nice to get to see my mom be a part of an organization that both promotes the love and peace for and of the gay community, but also allows her a place to work on her craft with costumes,” he says. Though they were already close, they both agree the krewe has brought them closer together. “There’s just something to knowing your mom isn’t just saying it’s OK, she’s living it,” Branford says. Because of her son and all the friends she’s made along the way, Branford says she’s in Petronius for the long haul. “I’m in it for life,” she says.

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Email dining@gambitweekly.com

NOBODY SAID WORKING TOWARD THE AMERICAN DREAM was going to be easy.

Chef Julio Machado’s pathway to owning his own restaurant has taken twists and turns — deferred at times, but never derailed. Machado was the opening chef of Mucho Mas last January, but the restaurant closed in summer 2023 after employees went unpaid. That spot is now a second location of Lakeview Harbor, whose owner was a part owner in Mucho Mas. Machado took a break to change course. The chef surfaced in September, opening his own place, Coma Arepas, at 7712 Maple St. The fast-casual, scratch kitchen has a small footprint, with counter service and a scattering of outside tables. It focuses on arepas, the flat cornmeal cakes used as a base for all kinds of savory toppings. They’re as popular in Machado’s native Venezuela as tacos are in Mexico. They also are essential street food in Colombia and Panama. Served at every meal, they are crispy on the outside, with a fluffy interior and naturally gluten-free. “I was comfortable doing Mexican food, but it is time for me to do something with my heritage,” Machado says. “I feel 100% good making arepas. I feel better.” Made to order, fresh and hot off the induction grill, Machado’s arepas are available with some 30 fillings, including his country’s national dish, pavilion, made with plantains, cheese and black beans, and diners can add shredded beef into the mix. reina is a zesty chicken and avocado salad full of lime juice and cilantro. There’s a fried chicken patty with mozzarella, tomatoes and pesto and a smoked pork chop with slaw. The hugely popular tequenos feature rolled dough stuffed with cheese and deep fried — like a flaky mozzarella stick. Huge breakfast platters start at $9.99, which includes two eggs, beans, cheese or bacon, one arepa and orange juice or coffee. “We have lines down the street,” the chef says. “People love the food.”

King cake kingdom

KING CAKE IS PART OF CARNIVAL SEASON, but around new Orleans it

Coma Arepas owner Julio Machado (left) with cook Carlos Romero.

But this postage-stamp-sized eatery is not the end of the story. It’s a place holder that will continue to operate while Machado takes the next step towards his goal. He’s opening a full-service restaurant next month in Bywater, taking over the former Luna Libre space at the corner of St. Claude Avenue and Congress Street. Machado is calling his restaurant Origin, in homage to his personal culinary roots. “It’s going to be 100% Venezuelan,” he says. “We have so many different flavors in our cuisine. I’ll be cooking on a wood grill in the back and serving Thursday through Sunday.” Machado’s career trajectory has been unique. For a decade, Machado ran a culinary consulting business in his home country and was hired by companies throughout South America and Europe for product development. He also had real estate holdings. A run in with the government sent him to the u.S. with $3,000 to his name. The chef was granted political

can sometimes feel like a season in its own right. Like any hotly anticipated season (Saints, crawfish), it’s worth sizing up at the outset. Here’s what to know for 2024 as we slice into the season’s first cakes. Something like king cake is available year round, but those faithful to new Orleans tradition know it only has its cultural significance during Carnival season. That season will fly by this year, between the kick off on Jan. 6 and Fat Tuesday bringing down the curtain on Feb. 13. That means we have just 39 days of official, culturally sanctioned king cake ahead. Mardi Gras can be as late as March 9 and as early as Feb. 3. remember back in 2021 when Carnival lasted 51 days? That was a lot of king cake, and a lot of time to think about king cake.

PHOTO BY CHERYL GERBER / GAMBIT

asylum and permanent residency and moved to new Orleans to be close to family. His resume soon grew to include cooking at Brasa Churrasqueria in Metairie, then to Zocalo, with its Mexican fare, when he says he started loving Mexican food. “It’s much different from Venezuelan cuisine,” he says. He was a partner in a place called Tacos del Cartel, also in Metairie, but opted to go in a different direction, spotlighting tasty patties made with a simple maize dough. The cornmeal of his native cuisine is something that surfaced again at Coma Arepas, and next month, it will star in the Origin menu. “I’m very excited to be highlighting my country’s varied cuisine at Origin,” he says, “I’m pretty sure this year is going to be amazing.”

? WHAT

WHERE

WHEN

HOW

CHECK IT OUT

Coma Arepas

7712 Maple St., (504) 5818400; comarepas.com

lunch daily, early dinner Sun.-Thu., dinner Fri.-Sat.

Dine-in and delivery

A fast-casual spot for a variety of Venezuelan arepas

PHOTO BY SOPHIA GERMER / THE TIMES-PICAYUNE

But for those who count king cake days more closely than king cake calories, this year gives precious little time to reunite with old favorites and try new contenders. King Cake Hub is a business that gathers cakes from more than 15 producers in one spot, a sugary showroom to shop for a wide variety in one place. It’s back again this year at Zony Mash Beer Project, a brewery built in a converted vintage movie theater at 3940 Thalia St. King Cake Hub operates daily from 8 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. through Lundi Gras (Feb. 12 this year, and yes that feels really early). This season I have my eye on a harvest of new bakeries, including two with opening dates coming soon. PAGE 20

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Bearcat Baked opened in December at 726 Julia St. in the Warehouse District. It operates as the bakery cafe and coffee program from Bearcat Cafe nearby at 845 Carondelet St. This finally gives baker Cat ColbyPariseau a dedicated home base. That means she can ramp up production of the marvelous, if very unconventional, churros king cake she has made for the past few seasons in makeshift space at the restaurant. This essentially bends the idea of churros (sticks of fried pastry dough) into a king cake shape, with cinnamon and sugar and ridges of crunch that are a joy to untangle. Across town in Faubourg St. John, nolita is opening in the same spot that had previously been Mayhew Bakery (see 3-course Interview, page 21). This new bake shop is from Martha Gilreath, who has made her mark with king cakes at pop-ups and through King Cake Hub previously. uptown, the former Beth Biundo Sweets at 3917 Baronne St. is now home to Mae’s Bakeshop, which is expected to open soon. This is the first standalone location for Jeremy Fogg, former pastry chef at Emeril’s, who started this brand pop-up style in the pandemic. He has a unique riff on king cake I tried last season. It’s king cake monkey bread, with the quilted warmth, crunchy top and a soft interior of monkey bread. It all pulls apart into pillowy, aromatic puffs of dough, just like monkey bread should. Across the river at 433 Lafayette St. in Gretna, Dough nguyener’s has already established itself as a king cake brand over the past few seasons. This will be the first with its own bakery cafe as a dedicated production facility and retail spot. Last year, this Vietnamese bakery introduced a king cake called the Parisian, which is made from croissant dough and bears a more-than-passing resemblance to the much sought-after Dong Phuong king cake. This one, though, gets a filling based on ca phe sua da, the Vietnamese iced coffee. As ever though in Carnival, sometimes the highlights of the season are what you never saw coming, that surprise waiting around the corner. So I’ll have my eyes peeled and my sugary paws ready. At the same time, a parallel joy of Mardi Gras is enduring tradition, and the old school styles will have plenty of room at the party too. Carnival season has long seen king cakes shipped around the country, and this only accelerated in the pandemic as restaurants and bakeries built up their shipping efforts to survive.

Specialty food shipping services move a great deal of king cake around the country every year. The national service Goldbelly (goldbelly.com), for instance, handles king cakes from Joe Gambino’s Bakery, Maurice French Pastries and now also Dong Phuong. The local shipping service nOLA Cajun (nolacajun.com) has its own line of king cakes ready to go. Plenty of king cake makers ship themselves, including mom-and-pop bakeries and local grocery chains. But don’t leave your king cake shipping options up to a Google search. If you have a favorite bakery that doesn’t ship, the DIy solution is readily in hand. Buy one, box it and ship it out yourself. People who are out of the market and have friends or family in town can assign one of them to the task as their ground team here in new Orleans. King cake will find a way.

Chef Jeremy Fogg is offering king cakes at his Mae’s Bakeshop. PROVIDED PHOTO BY RANDY KRAUSE SCHMIDT

Amid the flurry of sugar and festivities that always attends the return of king cakes, remember that they represent a cornerstone for many businesses. In a way, king cake has helped underwrite the revival of the neighborhood bakery in new Orleans. For some, Carnival season king cake sales are their primary source of revenue; for many others, these sales make the difference that keeps them going in our deep and difficult summers. This year, with local businesses contending with many issues and changing economics for their field, and with a short Carnival season, every sale matters more. — Ian McNulty / The Times-Picayune

Martha Gilreath

OF THE

WEEK

Baker

by Will Coviello THOUGH SHE SPLIT TIME BETWEEN MANDEVILLE AND TEXAS, Martha

Gilreath grew up on McKenzie’s king cakes. She worked in restaurants her whole life, from front of the house to the kitchen, but she didn’t focus on pastry until she took a job in 2018 baking and decorating cakes in Charleston, South Carolina. She started selling king cakes while enrolled at nOCHI, and now she’s opening a bakery, nolita, at 3201 Orleans Ave. in Mid-City, just in time for king cake season. For more information, visit @nolita_nolalove on Instagram.

How did you decide to open a bakery?

MARTHA GILREATH: About six days before Mardi Gras season in 2021, I called a friend and was like, “Do you want to make king cakes?” Had I known then what I know now ... We just did it. I came up with a name. It was a lot of Googling about how to set up an L.L.C., and we were printing labels at OfficeMax. We were trying to figure it out, and that first season, I think we sold about 250 cakes, mostly to friends and family. We were still in school at nOCHI. We were renting space from nOCHI, so we’d be in school all day, and then we’d bake king cakes. Then she moved to Boston, and I said, I think I am going to keep doing this. This past season, I think we sold about 2,000 cakes. I left (a job as executive chef at) the Chicory House in May. It was such a good experience for me. I was sitting around, and I was like, what am I going to do next? My boyfriend said, “I think it’s obvious. If you don’t want to go cook for someone else, then getting your own space is the next logical step.” Everything fell into place. That was in June. It’s been quick.

What kind of king cake are you making?

G: I only do one kind of cake. I grew up on McKenzie’s, so it is my ode to McKenzie’s. It’s not filled. It doesn’t have icing. It has a brown butter sugarcane glaze. It’s super straightforward. It has satsuma zest and orange blossom water in it. It’s really light and really old school. It served me well and there’s a need for it. So many people have told me,

PHOTO PROVIDED BY MARTHA GILREATH

“Oh my god, this tastes like my childhood” or “It reminds me of my parents.” That’s what I wanted. I wanted it to be like going home, because that’s what it’s like for me. Last year, I partnered with King Cake Hub. And last year, I was the executive chef at the Chicory House in the Garden District, and we sold king cakes there. We did delivery our first two seasons. But this year, I am trying to draw the line. It’s mostly the logistics because it was me and two other people, and it was a lot of work when I had the restaurant on top of it.

What else will you offer at the bakery?

G: The vibe of how I approach life is “no muss, no fuss.” There’s a lot of throwback feelings. Come in and get the most classic blueberry muffin, or banana bread with a brown butter glaze, or a good old-fashioned chocolate chip cookie. It’s what you think of when you think of an old bakeshop. There are so many bakeries that do beautiful, wonderful things that are fancy, and I just felt the need for something to bring you full-circle back in your soul. There are some fun things though. I am doing a green pepper and smoked boudin Danish. I am doing a smoked tasso and provolone croissant, which I am pretty excited about. I am focusing on lots of lamination. not so many breads, but lots of funky croissants and Danishes and things like that.

I’ll do personal sized baguettes. We’ll have breads, but they won’t be an everyday staple. Certain breads will pop up. During Jazz Fest, we’ll do crawfish bread because of our location. My mom has a great recipe, and I do a variation of that. I do cakes on request, and that’s situational. My mentor told me it’s super important to know who you are and what you do well. I am not looking to overextend myself. When king cakes are out of season, I do a morning roll which has orange zest and cream cheese frosting. It’s light and citrusy and delicious. We are serving classic coffees, but no espresso, no cappuccinos and no lattes. I do have a friend that has Mad Darling candles. She’s making one for nolita. The other thing is I want it to be a happy space. I am putting in a kids’ lending library. When parents bring their kids, we have an outdoor space, and kids can grab a book on sports or grab a book on history instead of being on their tech. I said up until three years ago, one day I will get out of the restaurant industry. I started when I was 16, and I have served and I have been a cook. The other cool thing I want to share is that my sister is an interior designer. She designed the space. My brother is a wood worker, and one of my other brothers has helped me with the business aspects, so it’s been a family affair.

Bodyguard Chardonnay

A rich, fragrant nose with aromas of spiced pear, star jasmine, vanilla bean and tropical rain forest. Trailing scents of pineapple, mango, crushed filberts and buttered toast are accented by hints of allspice and honeysuckle. A crisp, silky palate expands with mouthwatering flavors of white peach, pineapple, honeydew melon and lemon zest. Underlying tropical notes of papaya, kiwi and passion fruit are laced with toasty oak and baking spices, and a lush, clean finish reveals lingering impressions of citrus, almond and vanilla. DISTRIBUTED BY

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WINE

3 COURSE INTERVIEW

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O U T T O E AT C O M P L E T E L I S T I n G S AT W W W. B E S T O F N E W O R L E A N S . C O M

Out 2 Eat is an index of Gambit contract advertisers. unless noted, addresses are for new Orleans and all accept credit cards. updates: Email willc@gambitweekly.com or call (504) 483-3106. 8FreshFoodAssassin— 1900 N. Claiborne Ave., (504) 224-2628; Instagram, @8freshfoodassassin — Chef Manny January’s serves lamb chops, T-bone steaks, salmon, crab cakes, deep fried ribs, fried chicken and seafood-loaded oysters. no reservations. Delivery available. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. $$ Acorn — Louisiana Children’s Museum, 12 Henry Thomas Drive, (504) 218-5413; acornnola.com — Blackened shrimp tacos are topped with arugula, radish, pineapple-mango salsa and cilantro-lime sauce. no reservations. Breakfast and lunch Wed.-Sun. $$ Angelo Brocato’s — 214 N. Carrollton Ave., (504) 486-1465; angelobrocatoicecream. com — This sweet shop serves its own gelato, spumoni, Italian ice, cannolis, biscotti, fig cookies, tiramisu, macaroons and more. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. $ Annunciation — 1016 Annunciation St., (504) 568-0245; annunciationrestaurant.com — Gulf Drum yvonne is served with brown butter sauce with mushrooms and artichoke hearts. reservations recommended. Dinner Thu.-Mon. $$$ Banana Blossom — 500 9th St., Gretna, (504) 500-0997; 504bananablossom.com — Jimmy Cho’s Thai dishes include smoked pork belly and pork meatballs in lemon grass broth with egg, green onion, cilantro and garlic. reservations accepted for large parties except weekends. Delivery available. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat. $$ Bamboula’s — 514 Frenchmen St.; bamboulasmusic.com — The live music venue’s kitchen offers a menu of traditional and creative Creole dishes, such as Creole crawfish crepes with goat cheese and chardonnay sauce. reservations accepted. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily. $$ The Blue Crab Restaurant and Oyster Bar — 118 Harbor View Court, Slidell, (985) 315-7001; 7900 Lakeshore Drive, (504) 284-2898; thebluecrabnola.com — Basin barbecue shrimp are served over cheese grits with a cheese biscuit. Outdoor seating available. no reservations. Lakeview: Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. Slidell: Lunch Wed.-Fri., dinner Wed.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. $$ Broussard’s — 819 Conti St., (504) 581-3866; broussards.com — rainbow trout amandine is served with tasso and corn macque choux and Creole meuniere sauce. reservations recommended. Outdoor seating available. Dinner Wed.-Sat., brunch Sun. $$$ Cafe Normandie — Higgins Hotel, 480 Andrew Higgins Blvd., (504) 528-1941; higginshotelnola.com/dining — The menu combines classic French dishes and Louisiana items like crab beignets with herb aioli. no reservations. Breakfast and lunch daily. $$ The Commissary — 634 Orange St., (504) 274-1850; thecommissarynola.com — A smoked turkey sandwich is served with bacon, tomato jam, herbed cream cheese, arugula and herb vinaigrette on honey oat bread. no reservations. Outdoor seating available. Lunch Tue.-Sat. $$ Curio — 301 Royal St., (504) 717-4198; curionola.com — The creative Creole menu includes blackened Gulf shrimp served with chicken and andouille jambalaya. reservations accepted. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

$ — average dinner entrée under $10 $$ — $11-$20 $$$ — $20-up Desire Oyster Bar — Royal Sonesta New Orleans, 300 Bourbon St., (504) 586-0300; sonesta.com/desireoysterbar — A menu full of Gulf seafood includes char-grilled oysters topped with Parmesan and herbs. reservations recommended. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $$ Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House — 144 Bourbon St., (504) 522-0111; bourbonhouse.com — There’s a seafood raw bar and dishes like redfish with lemon buerre blanc. reservations accepted. Lunch and dinner daily. $$$ Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse — 716 Iberville St., (504) 522-2467; dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com — A 6-ounce filet mignon is served with fried oysters, creamed spinach, potatoes and bearnaise. reservations recommended. Dinner Mon.-Sat. $$$ Down the Hatch — 817 St. Louis St., (504) 7666007; 1921 Sophie Wright Place, (504) 2207071; downthehatchnola.com — The Texan burger features a half-pound patty topped with caramelized onions, smoked bacon, cheddar cheese and a fried egg. no reservations. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily. $$ Dragonfly Cafe — 530 Jackson Ave., (504) 544-9530; dragonflynola.com — The casual cafe offers breakfast plates, waffles, salads, coffee drinks and more. Delivery available. reservations accepted. Breakfast and lunch Wed.-Sat. $$ El Pavo Real — 4401 S. Broad Ave., (504) 266-2022; elpavorealnola.com — The menu includes tacos, enchiladas and sauteed Gulf fish topped with tomatoes, olives, onion and capers, served with rice and string beans. Outdoor seating available. no reservations. Lunch and early dinner Tue.-Sat. $$ Felix’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar — 739 Iberville St., (504) 522-4440; 7400 Lakeshore Drive, (504) 304-4125; felixs.com — The menu includes raw and char-grilled oysters, seafood platters, po-boys and more. no reservations. Lunch and dinner daily. $$ Frey Smoked Meat Co. — 4141 Bienville St., Suite 110, (504) 488-7427; freysmokedmeat. com — The barbecue spot serves pulled pork, ribs, brisket, sausages and and items like fried pork belly tossed in pepperjelly glaze. no reservations. Lunch and dinner daily. $$ Froot Orleans — 2438 Bell St., Suite B, (504) 233-3346; frootorleans.com — There are fresh fruit platters and smoothie bowls such as a strawberry shortcake and more using pineapple, berries, citrus and more. no reservations. Outdoor seating available. Breakfast and lunch daily. $$ Juan’s Flying Burrito — 515 Baronne St., (504) 529-5825; 2018 Magazine St., (504) 569-0000; 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., (504) 486-9950; 8140 Oak St., (504) 897-4800; juansflyingburrito.com — The Flying Burrito includes steak, shrimp, chicken, cheddar jack cheese, black beans, rice, guacamole and salsa. Outdoor seating available. no reservations. Lunch and dinner Thu.-Tue. $$ Katie’s Restaurant — 3701 Iberville St., (504) 488-6582; katiesinmidcity.com — The eclectic menu includes a Cajun Cuban with roasted pork, ham, cheese and pickles. Delivery available. reservations accepted for large parties. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. $$

Kilroy’s Bar — Higgins Hotel, 480 Andrew Higgins Blvd., (504) 528-1941; higginshotelnola.com/dining — The bar menu includes sandwiches, salads and flatbreads, including one topped with peach, prosciutto, stracciatella cheese, arugula and pecans. no reservations. Dinner Wed.-Sat. $$ Legacy Kitchen’s Craft Tavern — 700 Tchoupitoulas St., (504) 613-2350; legacykitchen.com — The menu includes oysters, flatbreads, burgers, sandwiches, salads and a nOLA Style Grits Bowl topped with bacon, cheddar and a poached egg. reservations accepted. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $$ Legacy Kitchen Steak & Chop — 91 Westbank Expressway, Gretna, (504) 513-2606; legacykitchen.com — The menu includes filets mignons and bone-in rib-eyes, as well as burgers, salads and seafood dishes. reservations accepted. Outdoor seating available. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. $$ Luzianne Cafe — 481 Girod St., (504) 2651972; luziannecafe.com — Cajun Sunshine Beignets are stuffed with eggs, bacon, cheese and hot sauce. no reservations. Delivery available. Breakfast and lunch Wed.-Sun. $$ Martin Wine & Spirits — 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, (504) 896-7350; 3827 Baronne St., (504) 894-7444; martinwine.com — The deli serves sandwiches and salads such as the Sena, with chicken, raisins, blue cheese, pecans and Tabasco pepperjelly vinaigrette. no reservations. Lunch daily. $$ Mikimoto — 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., (504) 488-1881; mikimotosushi.com — The South Carrollton roll includes tuna tataki, avocado and snow crab. The menu also has noodle dishes, teriyaki and more. reservations accepted. Delivery available. Lunch Sun.Fri., dinner daily. $$ Mosca’s — 4137 Highway 90 West, Westwego, (504) 436-8950; moscasrestaurant.com — This family-style eatery serves Italian dishes and specialties including chicken a la grande and baked oysters Mosca. reservations accepted. Dinner Wed.-Sat. Cash only. $$$ Mother’s Restaurant — 401 Poydras St., (504) 523-9656; mothersrestaurant.net — This counter-service spot serves po-boys, jambalaya, crawfish etouffee, red beans and rice and more. Delivery available. no reservations. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $$ Neyow’s Creole Cafe — 3332 Bienville St., (504) 827-5474; neyows.com — The menu includes red beans with fried chicken or pork chops, as well as seafood platters, po-boys, grilled oysters, salads and more. no reservations. Lunch daily, dinner Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. $$ Nice Guys Bar & Grill — 7910 Earhart Blvd., (504) 302-2404; niceguysbarandgrillnola. com — Char-grilled oysters are topped with cheese. The menu also includes wings, quesadillas, burgers, salads, seafood pasta and more. no reservations. Lunch daily, dinner Mon.-Sat. $$$ The Original Italian Pie — 3629 Prytania St., (504) 766-8912; theoriginalitalianpieuptown.com — The Italian Pie combo includes pepperoni, Italian sausage, ground beef, mushrooms, onions, bell pepper, black olives, mozzarella and house-made tomato sauce. no reservations. Dinner and latenight Tue.-Sat. $$ Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro — 720 Orleans Ave., (504) 523-1930; orleansgrapevine.com — The wine bar’s menu includes Creole pasta with shrimp and andouille in tomato cream sauce. reservations accepted

for large parties. Outdoor seating available. Dinner Thu.-Sun. $$ Palace Cafe — 605 Canal St., (504) 523-1661; palacecafe.com — The contemporary Creole menu includes crabmeat cheesecake with mushrooms and Creole meuniere sauce. Outdoor seating available. reservations recommended. Breakfast and lunch Wed.-Fri., dinner Wed.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. $$$ Parish Grill — 4650 W. Esplanade Ave., Suite 100, Metairie, (504) 345-2878; parishgrill. com — The menu includes burgers, sandwiches, pizza and sauteed andouille with fig dip, blue cheese and toast points. reservations accepted. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. $$ Peacock Room — Kimpton Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., (504) 324-3073; peacockroomnola.com — Black lentil vadouvan curry comes with roasted tomatoes, mushrooms and basmati rice. reservations accepted. Dinner Wed.-Mon., brunch Sun. $$ PrimoHoagies — 8228 Oak St., (504) 3151335; primohoagies.com — The menu of hot and cold sandwiches includes a classic Italian hoagie with prosciutto, salami, hot capicola, provolone, lettuce, tomato and onion. Delivery available. Lunch and dinner daily. $$ Rosie’s on the Roof — Higgins Hotel, 480 Andrew Higgins Blvd., (504) 528-1941; higginshotelnola.com/dining — The rooftop bar has a menu of sandwiches, burgers and small plates. no reservations. Dinner daily. $$ Tableau — 616 St. Peter St., (504) 934-3463; tableaufrenchquarter.com — Pasta bouillabaisse features squid ink mafaldine, littleneck clams, Gulf shrimp, squid, seafood broth, rouille and herbed breadcrumbs. Outdoor seating available. reservations recommended. Dinner Wed.-Sun., brunch Thu.-Sun. $$$ Tacklebox — 817 Common St., (504) 8271651; legacykitchen.com — The menu includes oysters, and dishes like redfish St. Charles with garlic-herb butter, asparagus, mushrooms and crawfish cornbread. reservations accepted. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $$ Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 1212 S. Clearview Parkway, Elmwood, (504) 733-3803; 2125 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, (504) 5104282; 4024 Canal St., (504) 302-1133; 4218 Magazine St., (504) 894-8554; 70488 Highway 21, Covington, (985) 234-9420; theospizza.com — A Marilynn Pota Supreme pie is topped with mozzarella, pepperoni, sausage, hamburger, mushrooms, bell peppers and onions. There also are salads, sandwiches and more. Delivery available. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat. $ Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco — 1433 St. Charles Ave., (504) 354-1342; 5015 Magazine St., (504) 267-7612; titoscevichepisco.com — Peruvian lomo saltado features sauteed beef, onions, tomatoes, soy sauce and pisco, served with potatoes and rice. Outdoor seating available on Magazine Street. Delivery available. reservations accepted. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. $$$ The Vintage — 3121 Magazine St., (504) 324-7144; thevintagenola.com — The menu includes beignets, flatbreads and a veggie sandwich with avocado, onions, arugula, red pepper and pepper jack cheese. no reservations. Delivery and outdoor seating available. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $$ Zhang Bistro — 1141 Decatur St., (504) 8268888; zhangbistronola.com — The menu of Chinese and Thai dishes includes a Szechuan Hot Wok with a choice of chicken, beef, shrimp or tofu with onions, peppers, cauliflower, jalapenos and spicy sauce. reservations accepted. Lunch and dinner Thu.-Tue. $$

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etiquette at Disneyland and more. He’s starred in numerous comedy specials and appeared on the TV series “Loudermilk.” He performs at 7 p.m. Sunday, Jan. 14, at the Orpheum Theater. Find tickets via orpheumnola.net.

Danny Barker Tribute

Guitarist Detroit Brooks leads the annual tribute to musician and jazz preservationist Danny Barker. Performers include Dr. Michael White, Gregg Stafford, Don Vappie, Frank naundorf, Steve Pistorius, Mitchell Player and Jerry Anderson. At 7:30 p.m. and 9 :30 p.m. Saturday, Jan. 13, at Snug Harbor. Tickets $30 via snugjazz.com.

Kirk Joseph and Julius McKee

Sousaphonists Kirk Joseph and Julius McKee both spent time holding down the lower end of the Dirty Dozen Brass Band. They join forces for this performance at 6:30 p.m. Tuesday, Jan. 9, at the Ellis Marsalis Center for Music at the Musicians Village. Tickets are $15 for general admission, $5 for students and $45 reserved seating via ellismarsaliscenter.org.

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Pelvis Wrestley

As Pelvis Wrestley, Austin, Texasbased songwriter Benjamin Violet puts a queer lens to Americana, questioning not only the genre but also what it means to be American these days. There are familiar classic country rhythms, but with a lot of synths, Pelvis Wrestley turns everything on its glamourous head. The band releases its second album, “Andy, or: The Four Horsegirls of the Apocalypse,” in February, but first plays new Orleans at 9 p.m. Wednesday, Jan. 10, at The Goat. Lyla George and Keaton Shciller also are on the bill. Tickets are $10 at the door.

‘The Big Easy Boys: Live on Lloyd Price Ave’

The Big Easy Boys quartet dives into the New Orleans songbook of classic jazz, blues, funk and more. The Big Easy Babes also perform. At 7:30 p.m. Friday and Saturdays, and 2 p.m. Sundays, Jan. 12-28, at rivertown Theaters for the Performing Arts. Tickets $39-$53 via rivertowntheaters.com.

Salon Mynka presents ‘Slava’

Ukrainian-born opera singer Bogdan Mynka presents a program of Slavic vocal music drawing connections between Slavic sounds from ukraine, Bulgaria, Bosnia, the Czech republic and russia. Guitarist Bruno Elisabetsky also performs. At 8 p.m. Thursday, Jan. 11, and Saturday, Jan. 13. Suggested donation $15-$25. Find information via marignyoperahouse.org.

New Orleans National Vodou Day

The New Orleans National Vodou Day is modeled after Benin’s National Vodun Day on Jan. 10, which celebrates the Vodun religion of West Africa as well as commemorates the Africans lost due to the transatlantic slave trade. In new Orleans, Black spiritual leaders and Vodou practitioners, including Kamili nilata, Divine Prince Ty Emmecca, Denise Augustine, Priestess Lilith Dorsey and Priestess Miriam Williams, hope to similarly recognize the Vodou community and remember the enslaved Africans brought to Louisiana. On Sunday, Jan. 14, the first new Orleans

national Vodou Day begins at 10 a.m. with a procession to points in the French Quarter connected to the slave trade and concludes with a ceremony at Congo Square from noon to 4 p.m. The event is free. Attendees are asked to wear white. Find more information at vodouday.org.

‘Haiti-Louisiana: Tides of Freedom’

The art exhibition “Haiti-Louisiana: Tides of Freedom” will present works by Haitian and Louisianan artists that demonstrate the cultural and historic ties between the two regions. Curated by Max Jean-Louis and presented by nous Foundation and the Historic BK House & Gardens, “Tides of Freedom” includes 41 pieces of contemporary Haitian art from the Jacques Bartoli Collection and another 36 original paintings and photographs created by Haitian and Louisianan artists and commissioned for the exhibit. “Tides of Freedom” opens with a reception on Saturday, Jan. 12, at BK House & Gardens and continues through March 17. Find more information at nous-foundation.org.

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A R T S & E N T E R TA I N M E N T

G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E W O R L E A N S . C O M > J A n u A ry 8 - 1 4 > 2 0 2 4

MUSIC FO r CO M P L E T E M u S I C L I ST I n G S A n D M O r E E V E n T S TA K I n G P L A C E In THE nEW OrLEAnS ArEA, VISIT C A L E N D A R . G A M B I T W E E K LY. C O M

To learn more about adding your event to the music calendar, please email listingsedit@gambitweekly.com

MONDAY 8 BJ'S LOUNGE BYWATER — Waco Brothers with Jon and Dean, 8 pm D.B.A. NEW ORLEANS — The Jump Hounds, 9 pm THE MAPLE LEAF — George Porter Trio featuring Chris Adkins, 7 & 10 pm SNUG HARBOR — Shea Pierre Quartet, 7:30 & 9:30 pm

TUESDAY 9 THE BAYOU BAR — Peter Harris and Friends, 7:30 pm D.B.A. NEW ORLEANS — Kid Chocolate and The Free P.O.C., 9 pm ELLIS MARSALIS CENTER FOR MUSIC — Kirk Joseph and Julius McKee, 6:30 pm THE GOAT — Contact, Self-Checkout renaissance, rite riot, Terminal Tongue, 9 pm THE MAPLE LEAF — TBC Brass Band, 9 pm THE RABBIT HOLE — rebirth Brass Band, 10 pm SNUG HARBOR — Dr. Michael White’s Liberty Quartet, 7:30 & 9:30 pm TIPITINA’S — The Lone Bellow with Liz Longley, 8 pm

WEDNESDAY 10 THE BAYOU BAR — Firm roots featuring Peter Harris, Derek Douget, Dwight Fitch and the new Orleans Groovemaster, 7:30 p.m. BLUE NILE — new Breed Brass Band, 9:30 pm D.B.A. NEW ORLEANS — Tin Men, 6 pm THE GOAT — Pelvis Wrestley, Lyla George, Keato Schiller, 1:38 pm JAEGER’S SEAFOOD AND OYSTER HOUSE — Tim nielsen and The Public Servants, 6 pm THE MAPLE LEAF — Sam Price & the True Believers, 9 pm SNUG HARBOR — Delfeayo Marsalis & the uptown Jazz Orchestra, 7:30 & 9:30 pm

THURSDAY 11 THE BAYOU BAR — Cryptic featuring Peter Harris, Jamison ross and ricardo Pascal, 8 p.m. BLUE NILE — Where y'at Brass Band, 9 pm

THE GOAT — Anti-Sapien, Grievings, FITH, Coffinwolf ultra, 9 pm THE MAPLE LEAF — Andre Bohren: Booker Piano Sessions, 6 pm; Johnny Vidacovich Trio, 8 pm SNUG HARBOR — Brad Walker Quartet, 7:30 & 9:30 p.m. TIPITINA’S — The radiators, 10 pm

FRIDAY 12 THE BAYOU BAR — Oh yeah! featuing Peter Harris, Wes “Warmdaddy” Anderson, Ed Perkins, Victor Atkins and Peter Vernado, 8 p.m. BJ'S LOUNGE BYWATER — Miss Martha and her Goodtime Gang, 9 pm BLUE NILE — The Caesar Brothers, 8 pm; Kermit ruffins and the Barbecue Swingers, 11 pm BLUE NILE BALCONY ROOM — Trumpet Slim & Brass Flavor, 10 pm D.B.A. NEW ORLEANS — The Soul rebels, 10 pm GEORGE AND JOYCE WEIN JAZZ & HERITAGE CENTER — Jasen Weaver Sextet, 8 pm THE MAPLE LEAF — The Mo’Jelly Band, 6 pm; Alex McMurray and His Band, 9 pm; Honey Island Swamp Band, 2 am NOLA BREWING TAPROOM — The river Benders, 7 pm

THE RABBIT HOLE — Louis Michot, 8 pm SNUG HARBOR — Alexey Marti & Afrogumbo, 7:30 & 9:30 p.m. TIPITINA’S — The radiators, 10 pm

SATURDAY 13 THE BAYOU BAR — Jordan Anderson, 8 p.m. BJ'S LOUNGE BYWATER — rAM de Haiti, 9 pm BLUE NILE — George Brown Band, 8 pm; The Marigny Street Brass Band, 10 pm BUFFA'S BAR & RESTAURANT — Freddie Blue Friendship Circle Band with Chris Beroes-Haigis, 7 pm GEORGE AND JOYCE WEIN JAZZ & HERITAGE CENTER — Christien Bold, 8 pm THE GOAT — Ethanol Merman, Orphanboy, Aubrey Jane, Jolie And The Drifters, 9 pm THE MAPLE LEAF — Louis Michot, 8 pm; An Evening with Monsters featuring Brad Walker, 10 pm; new Orleans Suspects, 2 am SNUG HARBOR — Danny Barker Tribute with Detroit Brooks and Friends, 7:30 & 9:30 p.m. TIPITINA’S — The radiators, 10 pm

Davell Crawford performs a tribute to Allen Toussaint on his birthday, Jan. 14, at Snug Harbor. PHOTO BY SCOTT THRELKELD / THE TIMES-PICAYUNE

SUNDAY 14 BJ'S LOUNGE BYWATER — Big Jon and the Excellos, 8 pm BLUE NILE — The Baked Potatoes, 8 pm; Street Legends Brass Band, 10:30 pm HOUSE OF BLUES — The Charlatans & ride, 8 pm THE HOWLIN’ WOLF — Hot 8 Brass Band, 10:30 pm JAEGER'S SEAFOOD AND OYSTER HOUSE — The Fabulous Von Zippers, 4 pm THE MAPLE LEAF — Joe Krown with Papa Mali, Casandra Faulconer and Eric Bolivar, 8 pm SNUG HARBOR — Davell Crawford Tribute to Allen Toussaint, 7:30 & 9:30 pm TIPITINA’S — raw Oyster Cult, 9 pm

SCAN FOR THE COMPLETE GAMBIT CALENDAR

504ICYGRL ON WOMEN IN HIP-HOP, SISSY NOBBY AND BOUNCE MUSIC BY JAKE CLAPP 504ICYGRL , THE PERFORMER NAME FOR ARIEL RILEY, grew up in a

music-loving new Orleans household in the early 2000s and her mother exposed her to a lot of local hip-hop. She started recording her own music in 2018, when she was around 19, and has released several EPs, including “Trap Etiquette,” “Princess Diaries,” “Laid” and most recently, “Fried,” a collaboration with her partner, PoppyH. 504icygrl and PoppyH also run their own independent label, Krewe. Find more at linktr.ee/504icygrl.

This interview is part of a series reflecting on New Orleans’ role in hip-hop as it turns 50. Read more at gambitweekly.com. What was your introduction to hip-hop? 504icygrl: My earliest memory of hip-hop is definitely being in the car with my mom and listening to Q93 (FM) early in the morning on the way to school. Just jamming in the car, and watching music videos before school on (BET’s) “106 & Park.” I have really fond memories of before school listening to hip-hop. Who was the ﬁrst New Orleans artist that you admired? 504icygrl: I have to say Lil Wayne. I just remember being super young, knowing every word to all the songs. Definitely Lil Wayne, but I more than likely was introduced to some other people before and just didn’t realize it. Because my mom is a deep new Orleans hip-hop head. She always listened to all types of music, so I’m more than sure I’ve heard people before Wayne, but he was the biggest to me as a kid. Was your mom a listener or did she also perform? 504icygrl: She was a listener. She was a party girl. She told me she used to always go out and go see raj

Smoove DJ, which is crazy ’cause now he’s my manager. And she used to love going to all the parties, and she just always loved new Orleans hip-hop and was always playing some oldies. My stepdad was actually an emcee, a rapper back then, his name was Bingo. So I was always around people who love new Orleans hip-hop. When your EP “Princess Diaries” came out, you discussed what being a “princess” means and being inspired by Nicki Minaj. We’re in the era of massive women artists like Nicki Minaj, Cardi B and Megan Thee Stallion. How do you see the inﬂuence of women artists today? 504icygrl: I feel like it’s changing a lot. Today, female emcees, we’re kind of driving the boat right now. I feel like we’ve been setting the trends first. As of lately, like the past few years, women in hip-hop have been doing things first and then everybody else has been falling in line. you see that low-key with Ice Spice. She kind of made the whole drill and the dance era and the Jersey (club) come back to life and now everybody wants to do that type of song. Even the men are falling in line, doing a lot of the stuff that the women are already doing. Did you grow up with Mia X or Cheeky Blakk, or Katey Red and some of the LGBTQ bounce artists? 504icygrl: yeah! I was mainly on Sissy nobby, Big Freedia, a little bit of Katey red. But I was mainly on to Sissy nobby. But hell yes, all the time. Every birthday party that’s really what we were listening to. I have a lot of memories at family functions and birthday parties and that’s what we’d be jamming to. I never knew how to dance, but all my cousins used to be

504icygrl in the recent music video for her song ‘Kitchen’ PROVIDED PHOTO

cutting up to all that. To this day I know all the Sissy nobby songs by heart. What do you feel has been New Orleans’ biggest contribution to hip-hop? 504icygrl: I feel like our biggest contribution would be bounce music. And I think we haven’t even reached the point where everybody has realized it yet. I feel like we’re on our way to where people are gonna realize that we have one of the rarest forms of music that can be liked by everyone and will make you move. I think bounce is our biggest contribution, but it hasn’t been recognized just yet. We’re still in the process of people realizing it’s the biggest thing to come out of new Orleans.

Do you feel like New Orleans gets the recognition it deserves for the things it has done? 504icygrl: I don’t think new Orleans gets the recognition it deserves, but I low-key feel like someone from every major city would probably say that about their city, I’m not gonna lie — besides new york, because everybody loves giving new york its props. I feel like we can all say that, but I do feel strongly about it in new Orleans just because our biggest contribution — like I said, bounce music still hasn’t been fully digested by everyone, and people still are confused about it and don’t know about it. So I feel like we haven’t gotten all of our flowers yet, but I think it’s coming. Every year, I feel like more and more people are starting to realize where these roots are coming from and that it’s well-loved.

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in Agnes Borinsky’s “The Trees,” it’s a modern moment. Charlotte is flakey, and it’s not clear whether she’s talking to her friend Sheila about her predicament or narrating a text message she’s sending to someone else. Borinsky’s new play debuted at Playwrights Horizons in new york last year, and despite its mass of unresolved modern etiquette about the digitized world, like appropriate Kickstarter pledge rewards or putting a relative’s house on Airbnb, the show has a few old souls at its heart. new Orleans’ Intramural Theater presents the show at the Contemporary Arts Center on Jan. 11-22. At the center of “The Trees” is the sibling odd couple of David and Sheila. They’re both drunk when they cut through a park on their way home one night in suburban Connecticut. On a whim, they decide to stay in the park, with Sheila pointing out that she doesn’t mean for the moment, or even overnight. She’s talking at least 10 years. The absurd idea takes root, and as they settle in, their friends come by to help. The friends run an extension cord from a home so Sheila and David and others can charge their phones. People bring seltzer water and supplies. David’s boyfriend Jared comes by and says he’s not interested in settling down. David and Sheila squabble about David’s communication skills and his habit of putting off difficult conversations. But both remain committed to their new life in the park. Strangers come across the couple and become new friends. Soon a vendor is attracted to the small crowd and offers bags of chips and pretzels, and later adds sandwiches and more. The siblings’ grandmother comes by and embraces their new life. She’s Polish and speaks in a mix of Polish and yiddish. But despite the flurries of activity and visitors, the siblings are remarkably unchanging. They remind each other of lifelong habits and the ways in which they remain the same despite everything that’s happened since childhood. And they’re quintessentially

Ian Hoch and Rebeckah GordonKirk star in ‘The Trees.’ PROVIDED PHOTO BY ZACH BUCKNER

siblings who know each other well, even when they don’t communicate well. Surrounded by change, they seem to show how hard or slow change can be. The oddity of the scene that grows around them in the park makes it onto the internet and goes viral, which draws more people. Some seek out David and Sheila out of simple curiosity and others are intrigued by possibly joining the community. “This play is very heartfelt and sweet,” says director Bennett Kirschner, who founded Intramural Theater. “It’s a very modern play. It’s trying to speak to the state of the world.” There’s also a flippancy to it. A city inspector arrives to see if they are violating park rules and inquires about the lack of restrooms. Borinsky’s drama proceeds at a breakneck clip, as much of the chatter comes at the pace and ease of the drunken beginning. Many of the people onstage have smartphones and are often both present and involved online. But they’re all still trying to make connections. Borinsky is a young playwright and novelist based in Los Angeles whose works include “A Song of Songs” and “Ding Dong It’s the Ocean.” This drama is the largest production yet for Intramural Theater, which typically focuses on new and company-devised works. The cast of 15 includes rebeckah Gordon-Kirk as Sheila and Ian Hoch as David. For tickets and information, visit intramuraltheater.org or cacno.org.

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