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CONTENTS

COVERSTORY

HiddenRoux

From TV to fine dining,the lost storiesofBlack New Orleanians whoshaped theculinaryworld

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ARTS + ENTERTAINMENT

StepsfromDesire

Marigny OperaBallet presents ‘A Streetcar Named Desire’

INADAPTINGTENNESSEEWILLIAMS’

“ASTREETCARNAMEDDESIRE”INTOA

BALLET,the Marigny OperaBalletis usingjust oneofthe playwright’s memorable words.

“Stella!”

Therest of thestory is expressed in movement, andit’sa vibrantleap into thepassions and pathos of some of Williams’ most memorable characters,and adifferent wayof exploring thestory.The balletruns Feb. 24-26atMarigny OperaHouse

Strippingall thelanguageout of aplayleavesquite achallengetotella story, butMarigny OperaBallethas doneitbefore. Its“Follies of 1915”isbased on Shakespeare’scomedy“Twelfth Night.”But Williams’ storiesof delusionand deceptionare challenging dramastoadapt

“I have been thinkingaboutthis foralongtime,”saysMarigny Opera Ballet founderDave Hurlbert,who wrotethe ballet’s scenario.“Ilooked at ‘Cat on aHot TinRoof,’I looked at ‘Night of theIguana,’I looked at ‘The Rose Tattoo.’ They areso verbal.The verbiageiswhatmakes them work.The only oneIcould figureout howtomakeintoa balletis ‘Streetcar,’ because it is so physical.”

“Streetcar” became aclassic of American theaterafter debuting onBroadwayin1947, butthe film adaptation starring Marlon Brando and Vivien Leighisthe most memorable version. Brando is magnificent as thebrutish StanleyKowalski, wholoveshis wifeStellabut can’t controlhis emotions.Stella’ssister Blanche comestostaywiththem, openingupquestions about what’s happenedtotheir family’s estate She also attractsthe attentionof Stanley’sfriendMitch

“EveryoneI have talkedtoabout this knows ‘Streetcar’ because of themovie,” Hurlbert says.“The whole playisaverydisturbing poem.The moviecondenses it to images andstrikes outa lotofthe dialogue.Thatwas quitehelpful. Themovie condensedthe play.In thescenario, youcondensethat material into movement.”

He felt theproject would be wellsuited to thecompany.

“Our dancersare greatactors,” he says.“Ifigured we coulddoitif we gota goodscenario andareally goodscore.”

So Hurlbert enlistedformer companymember Diogo de Lima to choreographthe piece,because of

hisexperiencewithdramatic ballets.deLimaworkedoff theswirling emotions of the main characters

“I trytotap eachcharacter’semotions:Whatmoves them?” de Lima says.“This is aplayfullofemotionsand contradictions.”

At theheart of theaction areexplosive confrontations and adult situations.

“Stanley’sgot strength to do anything he wants, untilhecan’t,and then he becomes alittleboy,” de Lima says.“He goes brutal He’s like an animal working on instinct.”

Blanche is involved in manyintense scenes, includingwithStanley,inher buddingrelationshipwith Mitchand with theyoung newspaperboy whoknocks on theKowalskis’ door.

by Will Coviello |

‘Varla Jean Merman’s ReadytoBlow’

JUSTAFTERCARNIVALDEBAUCHERY

ENDS,Varla Jean Merman takes thecitybystorm.She’s on the vergeofa nervous breakdown in this newshow. Forthose not giving anything up forLent, the drag chanteusebrings outrageous songs,big hair and costume changesgalore.At7:30p.m Friday,Feb.24, and Saturday, Feb. 25,atCafé Istanbul. Tickets $30-$40via redeyetickets.com/ ready-to-blow.

In themovie,Blanche’s attempttoseducethe teenager is wordyand mostly suggestive. In the ballet, it hastobemorephysical.

“Itbecomesquite immediatewhat she’supto,”Hurlbertsays. “She’s notsaying, ‘Did anybodyevertell youyou look like aprinceright out of Arabia?Well, Iamgoing to kiss youright on thelips.’ That doesn’t work in ballet,sotheydance.Itall becomes more intense.”

Theballetkeepsall theplay’s characters,and even adds two, butit changesthe waysomeofstory and drama unfold.All of themaincharacters areintroducedinthe first scene.

“Inthe opening,weset themood and introduce everybody,”Hurlbert says.“We startwitha dancefrom the1940s.They’re having aparty in theirhomewithanLP. We’resetting thecommunityand neighborhood, and then Blanche walksin.”

Laterinthe play,Mitch confronts Blanche abouther deceptionsin ascene with just thetwo of them underaChinese paperlantern Thelantern shade is one of thefew propsinthis“Streetcar,”but de Lima brings both Stanleyand the newspaper boyonstage to highlight Blanche’s emotions and have thebusyactionreflect them

“WhenBlanche tries to escape from something, shegoestoa dreamlikestate,” de Lima says “Throughout thedance piece,you seedreamlike sequencesthatare like it’s in herhead.”

Butthe balletdoesnot resort to pantomime, andsomeofthe hardest confrontations areenactedindance. That includesStanley’sassault on Blanche.There’snonudityorgraphic violence, butthe production is not foryoung audiences

de Lima’s choreography deftly balances thepushand pull of emotions and relationships,including Stanley’s love of Stella andhis forcefulness

Theproductionisnot withouta smashedbeerbottlefromStanley, butthe sethas onlyacouple of necessaryprops.There’sthe table whereStanleyand hisfriends play poker, andthe daybed to show the modest guestspace whereBlanche sleeps.The productionuseslighting and effectstoenhancethe mood andtoneinsomescenes.

Thecompanyturnedtolocal composer Tucker Fuller to compose and original score, whichwillbeperformed live by a14-piece orchestra

TheMarigny OperaHouse also may be aperfect venuefor theproduction.Itisjust blocks from where Williams locatedthe Kowalskis’ home on ElysianFieldsAvenue, and it sits on theformer Desire streetcarline. Fortickets andinformation, visitmarignyoperahouse.org.

John Mellencamp

JOHNMELLENCAMPANNOUNCEDHIS

CURRENTTOUR fromthe permanentexhibition honoringhim at theRockand Roll Hall of Fame

He’s morphed from thestrutting Indiana rocker,JohnCougarof earlyhitslike“Jackand Diane,” to theFarmAid advocate behind “Scarecrow”tothe artist whoput hisown oil paintings on hisalbum covers.Last year he released “StrictlyaOne-EyedJack,”featuring collaborations withBruce Springsteen,and anew album, “Opheus Descending,”isdue this year.Heperformsat8 p.m. Friday, Feb. 24,atSaengerTheatre

Mardi Gras Indian Orchestra andRAM

THISFATTUESDAYTRADITION

FEATURESTHEMARDIGRASINDIAN ORCHESTRA playingIndianfunk and some Grateful Dead covers ThelineupfeaturesWashitaw

Nation BigChiefDavid Montana, Bruce“Sunpie”Barnes, guitarists June Yamagishi andBilly

PHOTO PROVIDED BY MARIGNYOPERABALLET TheMarignyOpera Balletpresents‘A StreetcarNamedDesire.’

PHOTO PROVIDED BY VARLAJEANMERMAN

THUMBS UP/ THUMBS DOWN

OPENING GAMBIT

NEWORLEANS NEWS+ VIEWS

Watchoutcrawfish,it’sboilseason!Wecomin’forya!

THE COUNT #

2.6

TheNewOrleansHealthDepartmentdistributednearly 5,300 naloxone rescuekitsin2022. Thekitsare used to combatopioid overdoses usingnaloxone, also known as NARCAN. The city also conductedtrainings and outreachprogramstoteach people howtouse thelife-savingmedication. Kits went to Emergency Medical Services, Fire Departmentand other community partners,which also gave them outtothe public

MarcMorialandMitchLandrieu will both be inductedintothe LouisianaPolitical Hall of Fame on March4.The former mayors areamongeight politicians being recognizedthisyear. Theothers include former state Sens. Ben Nevers andBen Bagert,former stateGOP chair RogerVillere, former stateElections Commissioner Suzanne Haik Terrell, former state Rep.LouisCharbonnet and thelateJim Carvin,one of thestate’s first politicalmedia consultants. BrothersJohn, Dennisand MichaelBagneris also will be recognized. NewOrleans’DepartmentofParks andParkwayscut offalarge branch from an old oaktree aftertwo parade floats hititlast weekend,despite thefactthat even City Hall says theaccidents happened duetooperator error. On Saturday night, atractor driver in thePygmalion parade swung toofar in makingthe turn from JeffersonontoMagazine and thefloat hitthe branch, takingout an animated jester’s head in theprocess.Asimilar accident happened in theKingArthur parade thenextday

Aspartofoversightpush,Council memberGiarrussointroducesbudget, enforcementreforms

NEWORLEANSCITYCOUNCILBUDGET

CHAIRMANJOEGIARRUSSO on Thursdayformally launched an effort to reshape parts of the city’s government by creating a newconsolidatedDepartmentof Code Enforcementwhile also givingthe councila stronger hand in thecity’sannual budgetprocess

Giarrusso’sproposedchanges, both of which would requirevoter approval in October, arepartof abroader oversight and reform push by thecouncil.

Giarrusso’sfirst proposed charteramendmentwould merge some enforcement functions of theDepartments of Safety and Permitsand Departmentof Sanitation in anew Department of Code Enforcement.

Specifically,the amendment wouldgivethe newdepartment authorityto“inspectsubstandardproperty and authorize demolition or remediation of propertyhazardoustothe public health,safety, and welfare, and to enforcelawsand regulations formaintaining streets, vacant lots,and other places free from weeds, trash, and deleterious matter.”

Currently, code enforcement roles arespread outbetween the Office ofCommunity Development, Sanitation and Safety and Permits. Accordingto Giarrusso, thelackofacentralized enforcementdepartment hasmadeitimpossible forresidents to gethelp.

“Nodepartmentcan helpmeet theneed of residents beingspread among threedifferent departments,” he told Gambit Thursday. Giarrusso’ssecondproposal wouldpushupthe budgetprocess earlier in thecalendar year and requirethe mayortopresenttheir budgetbyOct.1.Asit stands, thebudgetisn’trequired to be giventothe counciluntil Nov. 1, and thecouncil is required to approve it by Dec. 1.

Since City Councilmust wait five days before holdinghearings,thatleavesthemlessthan amonth to read and analyze the budget, identify areasofconcern and negotiate with theadministrationbeforeitmust be passed

That tighttimelinehas essentially forced thecouncil into acting as arubber stampfor

THE AMOUNT, IN MILLIONS OF DOLLARS, KENNERMAYOR MICHAEL GLASER CLAIMS IV WASTEOWESTHE CITY AFTER BEINGOVERPAIDFOR WASTE COLLECTIONSERVICES.

In aFeb.15lawsuit,Glaserclaimed there wasnooversight of thegarbagehauler’s contract untilJulywhenhetook office, and that IV Wastehas used deceptive practices. Glaser hashired Ramelli Janitorialtoprovide supplementalserviceslikerecycling.IVWastewill still collect Kenner’sgarbage, butowner Sidney Torres IV allegesGlasergave Ramelli the contractto“settle politicalscores.”

C’EST WHAT ?

What should NewOrleans give up for Lent this year?

61.9% THEMAYOR

16.7%

SHORT-TERMRENTALS

10.7%

ORGANIZERS

10.7%

PHOTO BY MAXBECHERER/THE TIMES-PICAYUNE CityCouncilBudgetChairmanJoeGiarrusso,raising apointduringanApril7,2022councilmeeting.

themayor’s annual spending plan. Although former Mayor MitchLandrieu begansendinghis budgets to thecouncil earlier,as hasMayor LaToya Cantrell in some years, councilmembers have long chafedatnot having enough time to adequatelyreviewthe budget and pressfor changes.

“The budgetistoo largeand too complextoberushed,”Giarrusso said.“Forthe public’s ability to provideinputand to allowmore thoughtful engagement with departments and agencies, movingthe date thecouncil receives thebudgetfromNov.1 to Oct. 1 makes good sense.”

Under thecitycharterand state constitution, themayor hasenormouspowerinNew Orleans.Over theyears,that’sled to adynamic inwhich thecouncil is oftenon thesidelines,evenwhen it comes to newordinancesithas passed. Moving up thebudgetprocess will also give thecouncil amoreeven playing fieldinspendingfights withthe executivebranch.

Giarrusso, CouncilPresident JP Morrelland Vice President Helena Moreno have increasingly

viewedthe budget processasa key tool in conducting oversight of the administration.

Forinstance, last year they successfully passed ameasure temporarily withholdingfunds from some agencies in an effort to forcepolicyand hiring reformson theadministration. That effort saw some changes: The city hireda number of short-term rental enforcement staffand officers and begancrackingdownonsomeillegal rentals. Meanwhile,after yearsofcomplaintsfromfrustrated drivers, GiarrussoonThursdayalso introduceda newordinanceblocking thecityfromfiningpeople whoare caught in malfunctioningschool zone lights.

Thecity’sflashingschoolzone light system hasbecomenotorious forits myriad problems.Designed

to flash whileschools areinsession inorder to warn driversthatlower speedlimitsare in effect,school zone limits —and lights —are supposed to only be in effect while schoolare in session Butthe city hasoften either left them on well into thesummer and winter breaks —orevenforgotten to turn them offaltogether.That meansthatevenwhen thelaw isn’t in effect,driversmay be ticketed Andthat’swhenthey’re actually

working.Acrossthe city,drivers have routinelygottenticketedfor speedinschoolzones wherethe warninglightsaren’tfunctioning Giarrusso’sordinancewould bar thecityfromfiningdrivers whoviolatethe speedlimitsifthe warning lightsare notworking, anditwould allowdrivers to only be ticketed “on days when aschoolthatthe zone applies to is open forinstruction during theregularterm.”

“The lack of continuity of school zone lightsendangers students, schoolstaff,pedestrians and motorists,” Giarrussosaid. “If schoolzones aresupposedtohave flashing lights, motorists expect theselightstofunctionproperly. It is unreasonable to receivea violation when thevisual cueis malfunctioningornot working.” —JOHNSTANTON

PHOTO BY SOPHIA GERMER / THETIMES-PICAYUNE Asignwarnsdriversnottospeed duringcertainhoursinaschoolzone onEsplanadeAvenuein2019

Localremindersofhow Blackhistoryshaped Americanhistory

THISWEEK’SISSUEOF GAMBITFEATURESTWO

STORIES by freelance writersDomonique

Tolliver andBrooklyn Joyner aboutatrioof BlackNew Orleanians whohave goneall but forgotten, despite helping fundamentally shape notonlythe city butalso America’s culinaryworld

Joyner’s piecetells thestory of “Mama Lena”Richard, aBlack woman whosecontributions to American diningare as dramaticastheyare varied.Richard opened tworestaurants at a time when womeningeneral, and Blackwomen in particular, facedenormous economic and legalbarriersatthe handsofan unyielding patriarchy.She nevertheless attendedcookingschool and became amentorfor her allwhiteclassmates, achefinone of thenortheast’s oldestfine-dining establishments(wheretheystill servesomeofher dishes)and, remarkably, atelevisionpersonalityonher ownshowhereinNew Orleans— in 1949.

Meanwhile, Tolliver’sstory sheds light on what little we knowabout George Curryand George Goode, whoworkedasheadwaiters at theSt. Charles Hotelinthe early 1900sand indeliblychanged fine dining as we nowknowitin NewOrleans.Headwaiters back then were farmorethan thetitle suggests.Theyweremoreakin to orchestra conductors,watchfully monitoringevery detailofdiners’ experienceand ensuring thechaoticnature of cookingand eating proceeded smoothly

Sadly, we know little about whothese menwere. Butwedo know that afteryears working in restaurants in theNorth,they both movedtoNew Orleans in the late 1800sand quickly became leadersonthe St.Charles Hotel staff. Andthrough theHeadand SecondWaiters’ National Benefit Association,theyhelpedtrain the restaurant’s staff.

That,ofcourse, did notgo unnoticedbywhite people, who became increasinglythreatened by thepresenceofBlack men in

theserarefiedspaces. Predictably, and sadly,Black mendisappeared as head waiters— replaced by white“maitre d’s.”

Buttheir impact remains. At a time when JimCrowblocked what fewavenues Blackmen hadfor economicadvancement,Curry and Goode established good liveshere whilehelping scorethe delicate and precisesymphony that defines thefine-diningexperienceofthe last century

As we close outBlack History Month, thesestories remindus that becauseofingrained racism and purposeful erasure, thelives and accomplishments of many BlackAmericanshavebeen lost to history. So much so that we’ll neverknowhow many of those storiesare gone.

This is notancient history. Whetherits disingenuous attacks on critical race theory or efforts to eliminateBlack history from AP classes, racist politicians continue to wage waragainst BlackAmerica —and remain in positionsofpower from which they wage it.That’s whyitissoimportant that we embraceand hold onto thestories and historiesofBlack Americansall themoretightly

As NewOrleans author Maurice Carlos Ruffin told Gambit this week,“It’s important forusall to know thesestories to know that people arealways working to livethisdream of freedom and prosperity.”

LENARICHARDPAPERS(NA071),NEWCOMB ARCHIVES AND NADINE ROBBERTVORHOFF COLLECTION, NEWCOMBINSTITUTE, TULANE UNIVERSITY LenaRichardandherson-inlawLeroyattheopeningofher restaurantLena’s.

@clancygambit

CityHallscandalscascading likeMardiGrasthrows

ASLEADERSOFTHE RECALLEFFORT AGAINSTMAYOR LATOYACANTRELL

prepared to wrap up theirpetition drivelast week,New Orleanians triedto guess howmanysignaturesthe petition hadgarnered.Now it appearsnobody even knows how manysignaturesthe petition needs.

Alawsuitfiled in Civil District Court on Feb. 16 alleges that Orleans ParishRegistrar of Voters Sandra Wilsonhas failed on amassive scale—tomaintain accurate recordsofwho’s eligible to vote,eventhough statelaw expressly requires as much

Accordingtothe lawsuit, which wasfiled by recall leaders Eileen Carter and Belden “Noonie Man” Batiste, more than 32,700 people listed as “active” voters in New Orleans have either died, moved outsideNew Orleans (oreven outsideLouisiana), haven’tvoted in years (insomecases decades) or have addresses that theU.S.Postal Servicesclassifies as “undeliverable.” In some cases, theaddresses areempty lots

If even half that countisaccurate, it’s amajor scandal —one of many cascadingfromCityHallthese days like so many Carnival throws.

Thesuitnames Wilsonand Secretary of StateKyleArdoin as defendants in theirrespective capacities as electionsofficials. It seekstorequirethem to cleanup therolls immediately.

In addition to followingthe law and safeguardingthe integrityof localelections,accuratevoter rolls dramatically affect therecalleffort. Statelaw requires petition organizers to obtainsignaturesfrom 20%ofthe city’s “active” voters (those whose addresses have been verified viaannual mail canvasses registrars arerequired to conduct).

If thelistofactivevotersisartificiallyinflated, particularly if it’s inflated by 32,000 or more voters, it significantly raises thebar forthe number of validsignaturesrecall organizersmust obtain.

That’s whyCarterand Batiste areasking JudgeJenniferMedley, to whom thecasewas allotted,to hear thematterexpeditiously and

orderWilsonand Ardoin to do theirjobsposthaste.

Thedeadlinefor turning in the petitionsisAsh Wednesday, Feb. 22,sotimingisofthe essence.

As if that’s notscandal enough, in recent weekstwo morescandals came to light

TheCantrelladministration admitted it spentmorethan $50,000 in taxpayer fundsona slick, tri-fold “report tocitizens” proclaiming allthe wonderful things Cantrell hasaccomplished The“report”was sent to more than 106,000registeredvoters’ households— nottoall city residents— coincidentally in thefinal weeksof therecalldrive.

Nothingtosee here, according to mayoralmouthpiece Gregory Joseph,eventhough statelaw expresslyprohibits electedofficials from using taxpayermoney to promotethemselves or their politicalagendas.

Then came news that themayor’s favorite nonprofit,Forward Together NewOrleans (FTNO), had returned morethan$1.1million to thecitycoffers,asordered by a judgeand amidst acityInspector General’sinvestigationrequested by theCityCouncil

Thecouncil questioned two contractsCantrell signedwiththe nonprofit,which shefounded in 2019 and hasfundedgenerously— with taxpayer money—eversince Lent beginsimmediatelyafter midnightonFeb.22, butthe city’s politicalcarnivalnever ends

PHOTOBYCHRIS GRANGER / THETIMES-PICAYUNE Anewlawsuitfiledby recallleadersallegesthe OrleansParishRegistrarof Votershasn’tkeptaccurate recordsoflocalvoters.

HeyBlake, MardiGrasishere,soIhave aquestionaboutRex,theKing ofCarnival.Whowerethe youngestKingsandQueens ofCarnivalinhistory? Whoweretheoldest?

Dearreader, THELOUISIANASTATEMUSEUMEXHIBIT

“Rex:The 150thAnniversaryofthe SchoolofDesign” (ondisplayat thePresbyterethrough December) includessometrivia aboutthe 143 men whohave reigned as Rexand the142 queensofCarnival. Rexhad no queen in itsfirst year

Theyoungest kingswere31 yearsold at thetimeoftheir reign: Arthur AmbroseMaginnisJr. (1880),Harry T. Howard (1888) and Sylvester P. Walmsley (1890) MichaelKearney wasthe oldest Rex. Themaritimeindustry executive was75years oldin2016.

Theyoungest QueenofCarnival wasSusan Richardson,who reignedin1883whenshe was17. Theoldestwas QueenFrances EdithLibby,who was30when shereigned in 1909.Inmodern times, thequeensofCarnivalhave been debutantes,college juniors or seniors whoare most oftenthe daughters of Rexmembers

AccordingtoRex historianemeritus Dr.Stephen Hales,one queen of Carnival wasmarried.She was thefirst queen,Frances “Fanny”

BLAKEVIEW

HewittFearn,the 23-year-old wife of John Walker Fearn. Herselection in 1873,inRex’s second year, came as asurprise on thenight of theball. That year’s Rex, E.B. Wheelock,selectedFearn from amongthe crowd.

She recalled theevening in a February1920interview with The Times-Picayune. “I expectedtovisit allthe ballsthatnight and hadonly dropped in fora whiletosee what girlwould be chosen queen …Yes, Iamthe onlymarried womanwho haseverbeenqueen of theCarnival and appreciative Ihavebeenthat in allthe yearsofabsence, Ihave neveroncebeenforgotten.”

ARGUSWILLMARKITS50THANNIVERSARYWHENTHEPARADEROLLSINMETAIRIE on FatTuesday.Argus wasfounded by businessmenhopingtobring a parade forvisitors and locals to enjoyonMardi Gras in Metairie,where theretraditionally had been no parade

Argus debutedonFeb.26, 1974,witha14-floatparade depicting the theme “Aesop’s Fables.” JeffersonParishCouncil Member George Ackel reignedasking. Thefirst parade rolled at 2p.m.“to avoid anyconflict withthe Rexparade” onMardi Gras morning,accordingtoThe TimesPicayune. Theroute began andended at ClearviewShoppingCenter, with the parade rolling up and down Severn Avenue near thenewly createdFat City entertainmentdistrict.

“Iftherewas anydoubt that JeffersonParishcould host aMardi Gras rivaling theNew Orleans celebration, that doubtwas erased Tuesday,” EmileLafourcade wroteinthe next day’sTimes-Picayune. “Parade and parish officials whowereonhand in FatCitydescribed themadness along Veterans Boulevardand Severn Avenue as ‘tremendous,beautifuland marvelous.’”Inits second year,Argus introducedthe conceptofacelebrity empress forits parade.

“I DreamofJeannie”starBarbara Eden wasthe first empress in 1975 and othersincludedPhyllisDiller,Shirley Jones, LorettaSwit,Diane Ladd andShariLewis.In1985the krewebegan selectinga prominentJefferson business or politicalleader as king.The queen is generallythe daughter of an Argusmember.

In itsfirst year,Argus rolled withjust 84 riders.Thisyear, it will have nearly 500. The27-floatparade rollsonTuesdayatnoon

PHOTO BY JOSH BRASTED 2019’sCarnivalroyalty: QueenKristinaJohnsen andRex,Kingof CarnivalRobertBoh

CREOLE cameo

LENA RICHARD: NEW ORLEANS’ FIRST TV COOKING STAR

BY

BROOKLYN JOYNER

THE NAME LENA RICHARD may no longer be familiar in New Orleans, but in 1949 before Julia Child was on PBS or Emeril Lagasse was a twinkle in the Food Network’s eye, there was “Mama Lena,” who taught New Orleans how to cook on her twice weekly television show on WDSU-TV.

That’s right, a Black woman had her own live cooking show in 1949. Not that you can watch it anymore.

“You can’t find any tapes of her cooking show because the technology just simply didn’t exist back then,” explains Smithsonian historian Ashley Rose Young. The only images that remain are photos taken on set.

But during her relatively brief run on TV, she definitely had people’s attention in South Louisiana and not just Black people

WDSU-TV had become New Orleans’ first TV station only one year earlier, so if you had a TV, you weren’t changing the channel That meant families from all backgrounds around southeast Louisiana glued their eyes to the screen to watch “Lena Richard’s New Orleans Cookbook” every Tuesday and Thursday

It aired on the local NBC affiliate for approximately a year Not only did Richard share her cooking skills and recipes, but she also highlighted the Black origins of Creole food

“She led Creole cuisine,” Young says

THERE’S NOT A LOT KNOWN about Richard according to Young, who has a forthcoming book about New Orleans food history and has done extensive research on Richard’s life since 2011 Despite her success and notoriety, Richard’s story is not very well remembered.

“There were not many recordings of her life,” Young says “I started my oral history project to try and better understand her story through people who watched and worked beside her I learned how dynamic chef Lena Richards was.”

Richard was born on Sept 11, 1892, in New Rhodes, Louisiana, during the rise of the Jim Crow era and just

decades removed from the end of slavery. Soon after, her family moved to New Orleans, where her mother worked as a domestic servant for the Verin family

As a little girl, Richard would go to work with her mother and help prepare food, Young says Eventually, the Verin’s chef retired and the family hired Richard at just 14 years old to take over the position

Richard cooked for the Verins during the day, attended school in the evenings and was sent to local cooking classes After years of learning her way around the kitchen, at 26 years old she started attending Fannie Farmer Cooking School in Boston, Massachusetts.

The school was known for teaching its students to use exact measurements when applying ingredients. It also offered white women more formal culinary training at a time when women were primarily seen as homemakers. It was years before integration, and Richard was required to ask every single white woman in the class for permission to attend the school.

“Think about what she physically had to do to find

all these women to ask for permission to go to class,” says New Orleans chef Dwynesha “Dee” Lavigne, who runs Deelightful Roux School of Cooking at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum “There was no technology like we have now. That’s the difference between determination and grit.”

LAVIGNE, WHO FREQUENTLY APPEARS ON WWL-TV, was heavily

inspired by Richard’s life and legacy She found out about Richard in 2016 and says she’s thought about Richard as she has pursued some of the same accomplishments in her own career

“For me to find out about Lena Richard so late in life, I felt disadvantaged,” Lavigne says “To know that this lady was a trailblazer, how do you not feel disadvantaged that you don’t know anything about her and you’re living in the same city that she once did before?”

All photos courtesy of the Lena Richard papers (NA071), Newcomb Archives and Nadine Robbert Vorhoff Collection, Newcomb Institute, Tulane University

LenaRichard,Richardandherdaughter,and RichardattheopeningofherrestaurantLena’s.

Despite the gender and racial barriers of the era, Richard advanced quickly. While attending Fannie Farmer Cooking School, she quickly realized she was too advanced for the eight-week program. Many of her white counterparts scrambled to her for advice and feedback on their work

“She formed education and public programs she was more than just a chef,” Young says “They referred to her as Mama Lena.”

Through her passion for cooking, Richard also helped others in her community. She was a strong believer in equity, equality and the advancement of Black people, Young says

In 1937, Richard and her daughter, Marie Richard, opened a cooking school to teach young African Americans culinary skills that would give them opportunities for employment and earning higher wages. It was a 10-week course held at the Holy Ghost Catholic Church Uptown

According to Young, Richard wanted attendees to learn a skill they would be able to use. Young says Richard’s cookbook and classes changed the narrative for Black chefs by helping them gain respect and acknowledgment as skilled chefs. Black chefs began being seen as respected professionals rather than domestic laborers

In 1938, Richard started a frozen food company Working with Bordelon Fine Foods Co located in Metairie, she created dishes that could be shipped internationally The following year, she published “Lena Richard’s New Orleans Cook Book” with more than 300 recipes. It was the first Creole cookbook by an African American

The book has been reprinted several times, but Lavigne has an original copy She decided to make Richard’s shrimp bisque recipe, which she says came out great but took some time to get there.

“I did her recipe but it didn’t work,” Lavigne says “I stopped myself, and I did the recipe again from start to finish and it didn’t work again. I realized they used typewriters to write this book. They would omit things they felt were common sense at the time. Finally, I filled in the blanks on my own and it came out fantastic.”

“Her palette was off the wall,” Lavigne adds. “She was excellent. The flavors she was able to put together came out great. For example, she said to use onion juice, not onions This was so strange. I had never seen anything like that before, but I did it and it added such a delicate onion flavor.”

FOLLOWING THE PUBLICATION OF THE COOKBOOK,

Richard went to Garrison, New York, in 1940 to become the head chef at Bird and Bottle Inn She was its first female and Black executive chef The restaurant gained popularity due to Richard’s Creole cooking. Her influence over the venue still remains today, as Bird and Bottle continues to offer some of her classic dishes

In 1941, Richard returned to New Orleans to open her own restaurant She opened her first restaurant, Lena’s Eatery at 2720 La Salle St., which once was referred to as “the most talked about place in the South.” In 1949, she opened her second restaurant, Lena Richard’s Gumbo House.

“I am intrigued by the amount of things she did,” Lavigne says. “She accomplished all these things in the Jim Crow South during segregation. It just seems crazy. She did whatever she wanted to do I believe she was not this docile and silent character. She had to be vocal and very bold.”

Ultimately, Richard’s career was unexpectedly cut short when she died of heart attack in 1950, at the age of 58 Her family continued to run Lena Richard’s Gumbo House until 1958

But cultural historians and even Richard’s descendants are still working on securing her place in history Young is writing a book about her life with Richard’s surviving granddaughter, Paula Rhodes It’s due out next year

“We want to share her story but also talk about her impact on generations of people more in depth,” Young says. “I want to share more of her personal and family stories It has been so awesome seeing this manuscript come together.”

She was a strong believer in equity, equality and the advancement of Black people

ThesetofRichard’stelevisionprogramonWDSU.

BY Georges

THE FORGOTTEN STORY OF HOW TWO BLACK NEW ORLEANIANS HELPED SHAPE THE CULINARY WORLD

BY DOMONIQUE TOLLIVER

GEORGE CURRY AND GEORGE GOODE

are some of the everyday history makers that are often forgotten.

In the early 1900s, the two Georges worked at The St Charles Hotel, an architectural landmark which, as one of the grand hotels of its era, drew people to New Orleans. They were head waiters positions more like a maitre d’ today who oversaw dining room staffs and ran the front of the house Both men had skills, experience and reputations that put them in demand across the country.

And both were also Black men in high-skilled positions in whitedominated spaces during Jim Crow But despite the obvious challenges that would present, they commanded respect in the workplace and worked in spaces many Black people weren’t able to enter as customers.

Even more importantly, Curry and Goode, as well as other Black head waiters, cooks and others, played a crucial role in shaping the culinary culture and history of New Orleans.

Yet despite that lasting impact on the community, their contributions remained largely unrecognized and undervalued, often purposefully by white people who felt threatened by the intrusion of Black men in these “sophisticated” spaces. As a result, much of their story has been lost to history

“There are probably countless stories like these waiters throughout history that have been lost, not archived and not maintained,” says New Orleans author Maurice Carlos Ruffin “It’s important for us all to know these stories to know that people are always working to live this dream of freedom and prosperity, and these men were just a great example of that.”

IN 1900S NEW ORLEANS, “there was a vibrant street food industry. You could buy things from

carts that were being pulled by mules in the early days, and often you had your neighborhood waffle man,” says Southern Food and Beverage Museum founder Liz Williams “People could get snowballs, Roman candy, coffee, baked goods, candy, pralines, vegetables and fruit.”

Many of the people who sold street food were Black or Sicilian, but many Sicilians didn’t sell food in the French Quarter until the later part of the 19th century, Williams says But in the fine dining arena, many waiters and kitchen staff were Black.

“They weren’t all African American,” Williams says “It was a big deal at Antoine’s when they started having African-American waitstaff. But definitely in the kitchen, almost everybody was African American.”

The idea of a celebrity chef didn’t exist in the early 1900s. Restaurants were mainly known for their cuisine or their owners Working in the kitchen was seen as blue-collar work, Williams says

“The waitstaff who were African American, even during Jim Crow, are the same people who can’t eat in the restaurant they are serving in.” Williams adds.

“It’s just crazy.”

The St Charles Hotel was a beacon to the city in the late

1800s, and professionals like Curry and Goode came here to work there. Recording the stories of historically overlooked figures like them is an important step in remembering the role service workers play in culinary history.

E.A. Maccannon took an important step in recording some of these stories in 1904 in his book “Commanders of the Dining Room: Biographic Sketches and Portraits of Successful Head Waiters.” The book chronicles the careers of Black waiters who were in the Head and Second Waiters’ National Benefit Association, a labor union for Black hotel workers.

The Head and Second Waiters’ National Benefit Association was founded in Chicago on Sept 20, 1899 The city was booming at the time, due to the world’s fair in Chicago in 1893 and rapid industrialization.

George Curry always had a passion for connecting with people He was born in Milford, Delaware, in 1855, and left home at 17 to pursue his goal of becoming a waiter His journey began in Phil-

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GeorgeGoode

GeorgeCurry

IMAGES FROM “COMMANDERS OF THE DINING ROOM”

adelphia, where a day after arriving, he landed a job as a hall man at the Washington Hotel. He stayed in that position for six months until he made his way closer to the kitchen by becoming a dish carrier.

Curry was given a trial run as a waiter, but he failed, unable to keep up with the pace of the dining room, according to Maccannon. However, the next day Curry picked himself up and gave it another try.

Curry’s dedication brought him to a summer hotel in Plainfield, New Jersey, and then The Haynes Hotel in Massachusetts. He climbed his way from the St Marks Hotel on Staten Island, to The Colorado Hotel in New York City and The Grand Union Hotel in Saratoga Springs, New York

George Goode’s journey also took a few turns. He spent his childhood in Columbus, South Carolina, and moved to New York City in 1890 looking for opportunities.

Goode got his first job as a bell boy and worked in many of the well-known hotels along Broadway as he rose through the ranks to become a waiter He also spent time working at a variety of summer resorts in the area Maccannon describes Goode as being a natural at navigating the service industry with “more than an ordinary ability with marked politeness.”

Three years later, Goode was named second waiter in the Mansion House in Brooklyn. By 1894, he had become head waiter of the house and started serving at The United States Hotel in Long Branch, New Jersey, during the summer Goode’s dream then took him to the Sagamore Hotel in Lake George, New York, The Pierrepont House in Brooklyn and the Kensington Hotel in Saratoga, New York

Both Curry and Goode made their way to New Orleans around the turn of the century. Curry became the head waiter at The St Charles Hotel in 1896, and Goode became the second waiter at the hotel in 1900.

Led by Curry, waiters from the St Charles Hotel gained access to opportunities in the Northeast, where most members of the Head and Second Waiters’ National Benefit Association worked Records show that from May to September of 1900, the group of waiters spent the summer working at Congress Hall in Saratoga, New York The group of 65 waiters at the St Charles Hotel were trained in the art of fine dining “COMMANDERS

author Ruffin and researcher Danya Pilgrim. Ruffin says many freed Black men pursued waitstaff jobs after the Civil War, and the Head and Second Waiters’ National Benefit Association was a reaction to the societal landscape at the time.

“They were doing well for themselves Then there was this sort of backlash where a bunch of white folks were saying, ‘These jobs are sophisticated and these jobs should go to white men, so let’s push them out,’” Ruffin says “The association was their response to this.”

Some of Curry and Goode’s accomplishments were documented in the predecessor of The Times-Picayune and The Indianapolis Freeman, the first illustrated Black newspaper in the country. The Freeman’s section, entitled “The Waiter,” covered the St. Charles waiter’s appreciation of Curry as head waiter and Goode as second waiter

The Head and Second Waiters’ National Benefit Association allowed for freed Black men to gain training in fine dining establishments. The association also served as a way to market the strong community of Black waiters across the country, Ruffin writes

“They took a lot of pride in their work and they really wanted to show what they were capable of,” Ruffin says

Zella Palmer, the director and chair of Dillard University’s Ray Charles Program in African-American Material Culture, has researched the connection of Chicago and New Orleans in the early 20th century. Much of the service work that Black Americans did at the time was highly regarded, and good wages brought them disposable incomes and pride to their communities, Palmer says

“These were honorable jobs for the time,” she says “We are also not looking at the fact that to not have an education but to have skills was powerful.”

PALMER SAYS MANY BLACK

WAITERS in the fine dining sphere became competition for Irish, Italian, German and other European immigrants who moved to the United States during this time. This competition was most prominent in Northern cities, she says

According to the 1900 census, New Orleans was the 12th largest city in the U.S. and, Ruffin says, the city’s prominence brought many people down who were looking for more opportunities.

“From my specific research that focuses on the 1840s to the 1850s, I know that people definitely saw

New Orleans as a place of great opportunity, and these guys were go-getters apparently,” Ruffin says Ruffin said in writing the foreword for “Commanders of the Dining Room,” he learned a lot about the fine dining industry in the early 1900s.

“These are people who were working at a time when they didn’t have a lot of reason to believe that the best things would happen, but they had hope,” Ruffin says. “They were way ahead of the curve and ahead of the protests, marches and the early civil rights movement.”

“There’s a skill and an art to serving someone in an establishment,” Palmer says “Those skills were lost in a generation due to unfair work practices, racism and sexism in the workplace, and a push to move away from hospitality and trade jobs that were a remnant of servitude. In hindsight, there are so many skills that we mastered that because of trauma from Jim Crow we left behind or we were actively replaced.”

Robert Moss’ “The Lost Southern Chefs,” about the rise of restaurants in the 19th century, illustrates the challenges faced by Black chefs and restaurateurs. There were many Black restaurateurs and caterers in Washington, D.C., and the South during and immediately after the Civil War.

But as the Reconstruction era began, white society stopped hiring and patronizing their businesses, essentially ruining them financially. It became harder for Black businesses to survive, and many former

ROOM”

COURTESY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF GEORGIA PRESS

PDOThreads FORACNESCARRING

business owners had to transition from working for themselves to taking jobs running whiteowned businesses.

During Reconstruction, a ceiling was imposed for how successful society allowed Black people to be. Roadblocks like this rolled back and prohibited Black people from reaching prominent roles in society.

Some of the history of service workers was lost because of the way it was recorded Many waiters were recorded as “cooks” in census documents, Palmer says At the height of Jim Crow, waiters like Curry and Goode had access to spaces filled with many white, powerful figures across the country. Their ability to not only exist in these spaces but also command respect in them is a great accomplishment that should be remembered as part of New Orleans history. However, the forces of systemic racism and discrimination have negatively affected the presentation and preservation of these stories.

“After slavery, Jim Crow laws were institutionalized and those that were actively suppressing the newly freed, especially those who had an incredible skill set, did their best to maintain the institution and ideology of slavery,”

Palmer says

IF NOT FOR MACCANNON’S

BOOK, the stories of George Curry, George Goode and the Head and Second Waiters’ National Benefit Association would be buried in archives and census documents

“In any time period, you got a lot of Black folks who were working really hard to improve their lives and the lives of the

community, and a lot of those stories have been lost because there are forces out there who will prefer those stories not to be told,” Ruffin says.

The book “Creole Feast” by Nathaniel Burton and Rudy Lombard is a prime example of why recording this history is so vital.

“If we didn’t have Dr. Rudy Lombard’s ‘Creole Feast’ today, we would never know who those Black executive chefs were in some of the most famed and legendary New Orleans restaurants Because of that, we have a living document that also shares some of these incredible dishes that were created from their hands,” Palmer says

Williams says these unsung service workers were building culture but they also were left almost invisible

“We have to document the legacy of hospitality workers in this country because, at the end of the day, this is American history,” Palmer adds. “This is our legacy.”

FILE PHOTO TheSt CharlesHotel

PROVIDED PHOTO ZellaPalmer

Homegrown

ATUNDERGROWTHCOFFEE,PRACTICING SUSTAINABILITYISABOUT morethan recycling glassand composting food waste. Theproudly queerownedand managed coffee shop and café in Uptown walksthe walk in everyaspectofits operations

“Something people don’tthink about when they say‘sustainability’ is howimportantemotional and financialsustainability is,” says Zack Rescoe,who alongwith partner Alyssa Johnsonopened the business in 2021.“Everything is connected.”

“Our missionstatement is a focusonkindness to ourselves, ourcustomers, employees and the environment,”Johnson says OccupyingacozyspotnexttoMs. Mae’s, thebusiness recently closed foramonth forstructuralwork. During that time,theyalso added a spacious back patio, which opened Jan.18. They also paid staffduring the33-dayrenovation.

“Everybodyonour team is worth it,and we wanted them to stay with us,” Johnsonsays.

Rylynn Murphy is Undergrowth’s head coffee roaster andchef, who createsvegetarianand vegan dishes that arewelcoming to all.

Murphy’s kitchen experience speaks volumes in her colorful, carefully composedplates. The all-daymenuincludeswinners like avocado toast drizzled with cashew crème fraicheand arugula on Leo’s sourdough bread. Abreakfast sandwich built on aNew York-style bagel includesegg,cheddarand plant-based sausagecrumbles

Amorning burritoisamash-up of eggs,sausage crumbles,cheddar, potatoes and thedecadenthousemade crème fraiche.

Forlunch, thereare sandwiches including agoatcheese Dijon caprese, made with whippedherb goatcheese, tomatoes,basil anda drizzleofhouse-madehoney-Dijon vinaigretteonsourdough bread. A seasonal citrus saladcan be made with vegan mozzarella or goat cheese on abed of spring greens with orange segments and crunchy agave-roastedcashews

Then there’sthe compost plate,asend-up of the trashplate forwhich Rochester, NewYork, is famous. “It’sa pile of food that includeseither ahot dogorhamburger, some kind of meat sauce, friedpotatoes, cheese —about700 calories aserving,” Johnsonsays. “We wanted to do ourtake on that.”

Murphy uses fried potatoes,achili sauce made with Impossible meat,roastedvegetablesand cashew creme fraiche.

Murphy also has apassionfor makingdairy alternatives in house in theformofoat,coconutand cashew milks.

“Partofthe reason we make our owndairy alternatives goesbackto ourecologicalfocus,” says Rescoe, whostudiedecology and evolutionarybiology at Tulane. “Shippingall that liquid weight around addsup to alot of carbon emissions.Then there’sthe single-use packaging and therealitythatittakes agallon of watertogrowone almond. That’s clearly notsustainable.”

By makingtheir owndairy alternatives, Undergrowth hasbetter controlovercostmarginsand can payanemployeetomakethe milk ratherthan payanother company’s brandingand shippingcosts

Thecafé’squeer sensibilityand inclusiveness is at theheart of its operations.“People really love the aesthetics of marginalized people, of others,”Rescoesays. “Theyhire them,but toooften don’t treat them well.Theyjust pinkwash everything.That’snot whoweare.”

Murphy andJohnson movedto NewOrleans together as acouple Now, they areclose friendsworking together in abusinesstheylove

“I canspeak as atrans woman,” Murphy says,“Ihave haddifficulty findingwork. I’malwayshavingto choose betweena safe spaceand livingwage. This is thefirst time I’ve come across having both.”

Murphy is aself-taught chef,with yearsofexperienceineverything from fast-casual Mexicantofine diningcountry club cuisine. Both womenare from Rochester.

Johnsonhas worked in coffee cafesfor more than adecade. Rescoe wasaregularather last place, anda friendship bloomed.

“WhenIwas laid offduringthe pandemic, we startedtalking about goingintobusiness together,” she says.“Iwas drawntoZackfor his kindness,for thekindofpersonhe is.So, we decided to push play.”

Arobustcoffeeprogram is built around thesmall-batchcoffeethat Murphy roastsoncea week.Whole bean and ground coffee areavailable viathe cafe’s website.

Thecafé is open from 6:30 a.m. to 6p.m.duringthe week andopens at 7a.m.onweekends. Thekitchen is closed Mondays andTuesdays.

Thecafé’svibeischill and welcoming.“Thereasonweare able to providesuchanenvironment, is because we aregenuinely happy to be working here,” Murphy says “Wetakecareofeachother.”

“Coffeehousesare thirdspaces. Younever knowwhatsomebody is goingtotakeawayfromthe experience,” Rescoe says.“We offer kindness,love andpositivity on faith,because it matters.”

Emaildining@gambitweekly.com

Fury’spassesthetorch

PEOPLEHAVEBEENCOMINGTOFURY’S RESTAURANTFORDECADES forthe same flaky-crusted onionrings, friedchicken,trout plates and po-boys and forthe same old schoolfeel. Lately,though, they’ve beencomingtodosomething new.

They’reshakinghands with longtime proprietorJohnFuryJr. and offering congratulations, and they’re saying hellotothe newowners.

Fury hassoldthe restauranthe and hisfamily started40years ago. Now70years oldhimself, he’sstarted theprocess toward retirement. He is still cookingand showinghis successors theropes It’s part of theircollectiveplanfor asmooth transition at arestaurant belovedfor itsconstancy and throwbacktime-capsulequalities

Ronnie Laporteand hispartners took overthe restaurant, andthey

want to make sure it continuesas it always has.

“It’salready successful,ithas regulars whocomehereevery week,wewanttokeepthatgoing,” Laportesays. “It’sa family place, a neighborhood place.”

That’s whyFury’sown role in the restaurant remainskey.Recipes have been passed down verbally in manycases.Codifying andteaching thenew ownershow Fury’sworks is an ongoingprocess

“We’re really workingfor John at this point,”Laporte says Fury’shas outlived countless other restaurants around it in Metairie,where largecommercial

PHOTOBYCHERYLGERBER

AlyssaJohnson(left),Rylynn Murphy,andZackRescoeat UndergrowthCoffee.

PHOTO BY IANMCNULTY / THETIMES-PICAYUNE Fury’sstaffgatheraroundJohn FuryJr.(center),including(fromleft) NikkiPesses,AlbertHarris,Marvin Williams,RonnieLaporte,JeffVaughn andMarcusPiccirillo.

Undergrowth coffee expands its offerings in Uptown by Beth D’Addono |

OUTTOEAT

developments and chainrestaurants have grownmoreprominent.It’sdonesofrom asmalldining room underlow ceilings, staffed by people who know theirregulars well and regulars whoknow therestaurantbyheart.

Thekitchen fields amenuofseafood, Italiandishesand New Orleanspot cooking. Crabmeat au gratin and whole stuffedflounder withseafood dressingare specialties. So arestuffed peppers, veal Parmesan and daily specials like black-eyedpeas with smoked sausage and grilled liverwith smothered onions (both available on Tuesdays).

Fury’sclientele skewsolder.Fury thinks that’s because he’s always cooked in astyle familiar from NewOrleans home kitchensof generations past

“It’sthe old way. It reminds them of home,” he says

Portions that allowmanyto makea second meal from theleftovers is another appeal, he says.

It’s common to seea walker or twoparkednexttoa tablearound thediningroom. Thenew partners saythey’dliketosee afew more strollersnexttothose walkersas things progress

Butmainlythey’re focusedon keepingthe feel and flavorofthe restaurant intact

“People come forthe food,but they developrelationships with the staff too. Youcan’t replicateaplace like this,” says Marcus Piccirillo, a newpartner in therestaurant.

Many of thestaff have beenhere fordecades.AlbertHarris hasbeen cookingbesideFurysince 1992

“We’re lucky that thestaff hasagreedtostaythrough the change,” Laportesays.

Laporte wasa NewOrleans police officerwhenheand two other colleaguesonthe force opened Blue DotDonutsinMidCity in 2011,turning headsand drawingchuckles at thenotion of threecopsrunning theirown doughnutshop. He laterretired from lawenforcementand Blue Dot’sbaker took overthe business, whichcontinues on CanalStreet.

He’s morerecentlybeeninthe wine business,and that’s one area at Fury’swhere customerscan expect changessoon

Sprucingupthe barwill be the focusfor Piccirillo, whocomes to Fury’safter workinginmore modern NewOrleans restaurants throughthe years, including

Compere Lapin

and Meauxbar

Hisgoalistoupgradethe bar whilekeeping allthe familiar brandsthatregulars alreadyknow.

“We’re notgetting ridofanything— we want theguests to still find what they know. Butwewill upgradethe wine program and adda shorttraditional cocktail list,” he says

Fury thinks theseare timelychanges.

“It’sthingsI knew Ineededto do,but didn’thave theknowledge forit,”hesays.

ForFury, thesale andeventual full retirementwill closethe books on acareerinrestaurants that startedwhenhewas just 14.That’s when hisparents openeda MidCity restaurantcalledCorrine’son D’Hemecourt Street in 1967.

“Onthe first day, my parentsput me to work washingdishes. Iwas still wearingmybaseballuniform from agame,”herecalls

The menuwas based largely on Fury family home cooking, includingholiday recipes. By 1972, they expanded with amuchlarger restaurant called theBountyin theWest End, which wasthena bustling destinationfor seafood restaurantsperched on thelakefront

Thefamily parted ways with their partnerinthe Bounty andin 1983 openedFury’s, taking overa small, short-lived Italianrestaurant at 724MartinBehrman Ave.,just offVeteransMemorialBoulevard Fury creditshis ownfather,the late John Fury Sr., forestablishing thefoundationthathas carried therestaurantthrough four decades. He says it’s therelationshipsbuilt though that time that he’llmissmostwhenheeventually doesleave therestaurant.

“It’sthe people whoyou meet in this business,yourcustomersand your staff, it really doesfeellike family,” he says.—IAN McNULTY/ THETIMES-PICAYUNE

PHOTO BY IANMCNULTY / THETIMES-PICAYUNE Fury’sservestraditional dishesincludingfriedtrout.

ImaniBlack

Founder,Minorities in Aquaculture

by Will Coviello

WHILEGROWINGUPONTHEEASTERN SHOREINMARYLAND,ImaniBlack gotinterested in oystersand marinebiology.After workingin oyster hatcheries andfarms,she startedMinorities in Aquaculture, the only advocacy groupfocusingondiversity in fisheries. She’s also currentlypursuing amasters degree in marineestuary science at theUniversityofMaryland.She’s visiting NewOrleans this week to attend theAquaculture America conference, andwill give talks on improvingopportunities forminorities.She’ll also attend anetworking eventoutsideofthe conference at Sidecar Patio. Formoreabout MinoritiesinAquaculture,visit mianpo.org.For informationabout theconference, visitwas.org.

Howdidyougetinterested intheoysterindustry?

IMANIBLACK: Iamfrom Maryland’s EasternShore,so morethe ruralsideofthe state. Igrewupfishing as ahobbyand doing sciencecamps. Igot bitby thescience bugearly on in life.In college Iwas interested in marine biology. Since Ihad done some oyster restorationgrowing up,I got an internship with theChesapeake BayFoundationinVirginia when I wasincollege.I thoughtthatwas what Iwantedtodo. Idid another internship withthe VirginiaInstitute of Marine Science. It is thehub of oyster aquaculture, genetics and thingslikethat. That wasmyreal introduction into aquaculture

Forthe next sixyears afterthat, Iworkedatnurseries,hatcheries and farmsalong Virginia andthen came back up to Maryland.The businesses Iwas part of were small to mediumsize, so Igot to do allof theprocesses

Whydidyoustart MinoritiesinAquaculture?

B: Istarted Minorities in Aquaculturein2020. Ihad just endeda two-and-a-halfyearhatcherymanager position.Ihad never seen anyother womenofcolorthat owneda farm or were in leadership roles.The only people of colorI interacted with were laborers. Or Englishwas theirsecondlanguage —and they were thesmartest

people on thefarms butnever gota chancetoadvance.

Istarted Minorities in Aquacultureto find other women of colorinaquaculture so we could create anetwork and supporteach other.Inthe last two years, it’s become that andabout advocacy,education andsupporting our members.Not only do we advocate for women of color, but we recognizeall the underrepresented demographics in aquaculture.Weare making the definition of minoritiesour own. Usually,minoritiesmeans people of color, butwhen youlook at aquaculture,women in general area minority. Menofcolor area minority. LGTB+are aminority, and then people withdisabilities.We’re taking allofthose demographics and trying to give them opportunities and anetwork wherethey feel safe enough andsupported enough to continue theircareer We trytohelpthemfigureout a path usingtheir skills

On oyster farms, Iget moreflack forbeing awoman then forbeing Black. Theracial/socialpartisan issue, butwomen aresofew and far between in most sectorsofaquaculture.It’snot because of my skin color, it’s becauseI am awoman. In my experience, it’s been challenging. Aquacultureisa male-dominatedfield.Havingtoworkthrough that system and find your place whiledealing with misogynyisnot easy. It’s like anyother industry wherewomen arethe minority.

We arelosing alot of generational(Blackoysterfarmers).

Becausethereare better opportunities (inother fields)and the fisheries sometimesfluctuate and aren’t as lucrative. As time went on,wecould go and gethigher education and better jobs.When options openedupand startedto be more lucrativethan fisheries, a lotofpeople movedon.

It’s no secret that Blackwatermenwerepushed out. They didn’t have access to consistent capital.In theChesapeake Bayarea, African Americansweren’t givenbank loans. When youdon’t have that capital,you can’tget thegearyou need.When it comestoinvesting in equipment, youget left behind. Or yousettlefor lowerincome jobs in thepacking houseorinthe shucking house.

WINE OF THE WEEK

Whatwillyouaddress attheconference?

B: Ispend half of my MIAtime goingtoconferences andgiving talks.I am giving threetalks this weekend. Oneistalkingabout active engagementwithunderrepresenteddemographicswithin aquaculture.One is on workforce development, andIamspeakingon awomen in aquaculture panel.

What Iwould sayaboutminorities in generaland especially with women,a lotofour needcomes from wanting to feel safe in the workplace.Being able to have safety whereyou arenot in thefield (subjected to)sexual harassmentor misogyny. It’s uncommonintalking to womenwho have been in aquaculturefor abit to nothave dealt with that sort of thing.

There’salso theneedfor resourcesand beingable to fund things.Thenalso lookingatthe parameters of things like internships and jobs.Oysterfarming is oftenremote. (Workspaces) are offthe beaten path.People need support. Especially forwomen with children,schedules need to be flexible.It’ssimilar to what womendeal with in other industries

We have partnersinLouisiana, LouisianaOysterCo. We’reworkingongetting some internships. There’sanother organizationcalled Oyster South.It’sa hubofSouthern oyster farmers. We have talkedto oyster farmersinthe South and Gulf Coast,but it’s really me trying to explore alittlemore. Each region of oyster farmingisdealingwith similarthings, butspecific to their area.How canaquaculture support theirneeds. It’s an ongoingprocess of figuring outhow we cansupport theirneeds.

La Petite Grace Pinot Noir

Dark ruby in theglass, aromas of dark cherries, currantand vanillamingle with ahintofmocha. Thepalateunfolds with decadent layers of raspberry icecream plus apinch of wild sage. Along finishinstillsa lastingimpressionofrich, concentratedflavors

DISTRIBUTED BY

PHOTO BY CAROLINE J. PHILLIPS / COURTESY OF IMANIBLACK

Diora

Out 2Eat is an indexofGambit contract advertisers. Unlessnoted, addresses arefor NewOrleans and all accept credit cards. Updates: Email willc@gambitweekly.com or call (504) 483-3106.

8FreshFoodAssassin — 1900 N. Claiborne Ave.,(504) 224-2628; Instagram, @8freshfoodassassin ChefMannyJanuary’smenuincludes grilledlambchops,T-bone steaks, salmon,crabcakes,deepfried ribs, friedchicken andchar-grilled or seafood-loadedoysters,aswellassides like collardgreensand mac andcheese. No reservations.Deliveryavailable

Lunchand dinner Tue.-Sun $$

Acorn— 12 HenryThomas Drive, (504) 218-5413;acornnola.com— Thecafe at theLouisiana Children’s Museum haskid-and adult-friendly menu Blackenedshrimpfill atriooftacos topped witharugula,radish, pineapple-mango salsa andcilantro-lime sauce.Noreservations. breakfastand lunch Wed.-Sun $$

Angelo Brocato’s — 214N.Carrollton Ave.,(504) 486-1465;angelobrocatoicecream.com— This sweetshop serves itsown gelato, spumoni,Italian ice, cannolis, biscotti,fig cookies, tiramisu, macaroons andother treats.Lunch and dinnerTue.-Sun. $

Annunciation— 1016 Annunciation St.,(504) 568-0245;annunciationrestaurant.com Themenu highlights Gulf seafood in Creole,Cajun and Southerndishes. Gulf Drum Yvonne is served withbrown butter saucewith mushrooms and artichokehearts. Reservations recommended.Dinner

Thu.-Mon $$$

Banana Blossom— 5009th St.,Gretna, (504)500-0997; 504bananablossom com JimmyCho’s restaurantserves classic andcreativeThaidishes.

Smoked pork belly andporkmeatballis served in alemon grassbroth with egg, greenonion,cilantroand crispy garlic

Reservations accepted forlarge parties except Friday and Saturday nights Delivery available.Lunchand dinner

Tue.-Sat $$

TheBlueCrabRestaurant andOyster Bar— 118Harbor View Court, Slidell, (985)315-7001; 7900 Lakeshore Drive, (504)284-2898;thebluecrabnola. com Themenuincludessandwiches, friedand boiled seafood andmore. Basinbarbecue shrimp areserved overcheesegrits withacheesebiscuit. Outdoor seatingavailable.Noreservations.Lakeview: lunch anddinner

Tue.-Sun.Slidell: lunchFri.-Sat., dinner

Wed.-Sun. $$

Broussard’s— 819Conti St.,(504) 581-3866;broussards.com Themenu includesCreole andcreativecontemporary dishes.Rainbowtrout amandine is served with tassoand corn macque chouxand Creole meunieresauce

Reservations recommended.Outdoor seatingavailable.Dinner Wed.-Sat., brunch Sun. $$$

Cafe Normandie— HigginsHotel,480 Andrew HigginsBlvd.,(504) 528-1941; higginshotelnola.com/dining The menu combines classicFrenchdishes and Louisiana itemslikecrabbeignets with herb aioli. No reservations Breakfastand lunchdaily $$

TheCommissary — 634OrangeSt., (504)274-1850; thecommissarynola.

com Thecentral kitchenfor Dickie Brennan restaurants offers graband-godishes anda dine-in menu of sandwiches,saladsand shareable

$ —average dinner entrée under $10

$$ —$11-$20 $$$ —$20-up

plates.The turkey sandwich is made withhouse-smoked turkey breast, bacon,tomatojam,herbed cream cheese,arugula and herbvinaigrette on Bellegarde honeyoat bread. No reservations.Outdoor seatingavailable

LunchTue.-Sat. $$

Curio— 301Royal St.,(504) 717-4198; curionola.com ThecreativeCreole menu includes blackened Gulf shrimp served with chickenand andouillejambalaya.Reservations accepted.Lunch and dinner daily $$

Desire Oyster Bar— RoyalSonesta NewOrleans,300 Bourbon St., (504) 586-0300;sonesta.com/desireoysterbar

Themenu highlightsGulfseafood in Creole dishes.Char-grilled oysters aretopped with Parmesan and herbs Reservations recommended. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily $$

Dickie Brennan’sBourbon House— 144Bourbon St.,(504) 522-0111; bourbonhouse.com— Theseafood restauranthas araw barand alarge selectionofbourbon.Redfish is served withlemon buerre blanc.Reservations accepted.Lunchand dinner daily $$$

DragonflyCafe— 530Jackson Ave., (504)544-9530; dragonflynola.com Thecasual cafe offers breakfastplates, waffles,salads, coffeedrinks and more.Braised ribisservedongreens withcornbread.Deliveryavailable Reservations accepted.Breakfast and lunch Wed.-Sat $$

El Pavo Real — 4401 S. BroadAve., (504)266-2022;elpavorealnola.com— Pescado Vera Cruzisa sauteed Gulf fish toppedwith asauceoftomatoes,olives,onion andcapers and served with steamed rice and string beans. Themenu also includes tacos, quesadillas,enchiladas, carnitas and more.Outdoorseating available.No reservations.Lunch and early dinner

Tue.-Sat $$

Felix’s Restaurant&OysterBar — 739 Iberville St.,(504) 522-4440; 7400 Lakeshore Drive, (504)304-4125; felixs. com Louisiana oysters areservedraw or char-grilled withgarlic,Parmesan andbreadcrumbs. Themenuincludes seafood platters,crawfish etouffee, po-boys andmore. No reservations Lunchand dinner daily $$

Frey Smoked Meat Co.— 4141 Bienville St.,Suite 110,(504) 488-7427; freysmokedmeat.com Thebarbecue spot serves pulled pork,ribs,brisket, sausagesand more. Friedporkbelly poppers aretossedinpepperjelly glaze.Noreservations.Lunch and dinnerdaily $$

FrootOrleans 2438 Bell St.,Suite B, (504)233-3346; frootorleans.com

Thereare freshfruit platters and smoothie bowlssuchasa strawberry shortcakeand more usingpineapple, berries,citrus andmore. No reservations.Outdoor seatingavailable

Breakfast and lunch daily $$

Juan’sFlyingBurrito — 515Baronne St.,(504) 529-5825;2018MagazineSt., (504)569-0000;4724S.Carrollton Ave.,(504) 486-9950;8140Oak St., (504)897-4800;juansflyingburrito.com

TheFlying Burritoincludes steak, shrimp,chicken,cheddarjackcheese, blackbeans,rice, guacamole and salsa. Themenu also has tacos, quesadillas

and nachos. Outdoorseating available. No reservations.Lunch and dinner Thu.-Tue $$

Katie’sRestaurant— 3701 Iberville St., (504) 488-6582;katiesinmidcity.com

ACajun Cuban hasroasted pork,ham, cheese and pickles on buttered bread. TheBoudreauxpizza is topped with cochon de lait,spinach, onions and garlic.Deliveryavailable.Reservations accepted forlarge parties. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun $$

Kilroy’s Bar— HigginsHotel,480 Andrew HigginsBlvd.,(504) 528-1941; higginshotelnola.com/dining Thebar menu includes sandwiches,flatbreads, salads and more.A Louisiana peach flatbread has prosciutto,stracciatella cheese,arugula andpecans. No reservations.DinnerWed.-Sat. $$

Legacy Kitchen’s CraftTavern — 700Tchoupitoulas St.,(504) 6132350;legacykitchen.com— Themenu includesoysters,flatbreads, burgers, sandwiches,salads and more.A NOLAStyle GritsBowlistopped with bacon,cheddar anda poachedegg

Reservations accepted.Breakfast, lunch anddinner daily. $$

LegacyKitchenSteak &Chop — 91 Westbank Expressway,Gretna, (504) 513-2606;legacykitchen.com— The menu includes filets mignons,bone-in rib-eyesand topsirloins, as well as burgers, salads andseafood dishes

Reservations accepted.Outdoor seatingavailable.Lunchand dinner

Mon.-Sat $$

MartinWine Cellar — 714Elmeer Ave., Metairie,(504) 896-7350;3827Baronne St.,(504) 894-7444;martinwine. com Thespirits shop’s deliserves sandwiches, salads andmore. The Senasalad includeschicken,raisins, bluecheese, pecans andgreenswith Tabascopepperjelly vinaigrette.No reservations.Lunchdaily $$

Mikimoto 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., (504) 488-1881;mikimotosushi.com— TheSouth Carrollton roll includestuna tataki, avocado and snow crab. The menu also hassushi, sashimi,noodle dishes,teriyakiand more.Reservations accepted.Deliveryavailable.Lunch

Sun.-Fri., dinner daily $$

Mosca’s— 4137 Highway90West, Westwego,(504) 436-8950;moscasrestaurant.com Thisfamily-style eatery serves Italiandishesand specialties including chicken alagrande. Bakedoysters Moscaismade with breadcrumbsand Italianseasonings Reservations accepted.Dinner Wed.Sat. Cash only. $$$

Mother’s Restaurant— 401Poydras St., (504)523-9656; mothersrestaurant.net

This counter-servicespotisknown forpo-boys and Creole favoritessuch as jambalaya, crawfish etouffee and redbeans and rice.Deliveryavailable No reservations.Breakfast, lunchand dinnerdaily $$

Neyow’sCreole Cafe 3332Bienville St.,(504) 827-5474;neyows.com The menu includes redbeans withfried chicken or pork chops, as well as seafood platters,po-boys,char-grilled oysters, pasta,saladsand more.Noreservations.Lunchdaily,dinner Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. $$

Nice Guys Bar&Grill — 7910 Earhart Blvd., (504)302-2404; niceguysbarandgrillnola.com Char-grilled oysters are toppedwith cheese.The menu also includeswings,quesadillas,burgers, sandwiches,salads, seafood pasta and more. No reservations.Lunchdaily, dinner Mon.-Sat $$$

Orleans GrapevineWineBar &Bistro 720OrleansAve., (504)523-1930; orleansgrapevine.com

Thewinebar hascheeseand charcuterie boards, shareableplatesand afullmenu. Creole pasta features shrimp and andouille tossed withpappardelleintomato creamsauce.Reservations accepted for largeparties.Outdoor seatingavailable

Dinner Thu.-Sun $$

PeacockRoom— KimptonHotel Fontenot,501 Tchoupitoulas St.,(504) 324-3073; peacockroomnola.com Blacklentilvadouvancurry comes withroasted tomatoes,mushrooms andbasmati rice.The menu includes smallplates, aburger, saladsand more. Reservations accepted.Dinner Wed.Mon.,brunchSun $$

Rosie’sonthe Roof— HigginsHotel, 480AndrewHiggins Blvd., (504)5281941;higginshotelnola.com/dining The rooftopbar has amenuofsandwiches, burgers andsmall plates.Noreservations.Dinnerdaily $$

Tacklebox— 817Common St.,(504) 827-1651;legacykitchen.com— The seafood restaurantservesoysters, seafood, burgers, salads and more Redfish St.Charles is served withgarlic-herbbutter, asparagus, mushrooms and crawfish cornbread. Reservations accepted.Breakfast, lunchand dinner daily $$

Tavolino Pizza&Lounge— 141 Delaronde St.,(504) 605-3365; tavolinonola.com Themenu features thin-crust pizzas,salads,meatballs and more.ABehrman Hwy. pizzais toppedwith pork belly,caramel, carrots,radishes, jalapenos andherbs.No reservations.Outdoor seatingavailable

Dinner Tue.-Sat $$

Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza— 1212 S. ClearviewParkway,Elmwood,(504) 733-3803;2125VeteransMemorialBlvd., Metairie,(504) 510-4282;4024Canal St.,(504) 302-1133;4218MagazineSt., (504)894-8554; 70488 Highway21, Covington, (985)234-9420;theospizza com AMarilynnPotaSupremepie is topped withmozzarella, pepperoni, sausage,hamburger,mushrooms,bell peppersand onions. Therealsoare salads,sandwiches andmore. Delivery available.Lunchand dinner Tue.-Sat $ Tito’sCeviche &Pisco — 1433 St. CharlesAve., (504) 354-1342;5015 Magazine St.,(504) 267-7612; titoscevichepisco.com Peruvian lomo saltado features beef sauteedwith onions, tomatoes,cilantro, soysauce andpisco, served withfried potatoes andrice. Outdoor seatingavailable on Magazine Street.Deliveryavailable.Reservations accepted.Lunchand dinner Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. $$$

TheVintage 3121 Magazine St., (504)324-7144; thevintagenola.com

Themenuincludesbeignets, small plates,sandwiches andflatbreads

Theveggie pressed sandwich has avocado,onions,arugula,red pepper, pepperjackcheeseand lemon. No reservations.Deliveryand outdoor seatingavailable.Breakfast, lunch anddinner daily. $$

Zhang Bistro — 1141 DecaturSt., (504)826-8888;zhangbistronola.com

Themenu includes Chineseand Thai dishes.The Szechuan HotWok offers a choiceofchicken,beef, shrimp or tofu withonions, bell peppers,cauliflower, jalapenosand spicySichuan sauce. Reservations accepted.Lunch and dinner Thu.-Tue. $$

ARTS&ENTERTAINMENT

Iuso, Radiators bassist Reggie Scanlanand more.RAM of Haitialsoperforms. At 5p.m. Tuesday, Feb. 21,atCafé Istanbul. Admission$25

Os Mutantes

BRAZILIANROCKBANDOS

MUTANTESWASAPOPULARGROUP during itsoriginal iterationinthe late-1960s and‘70s, combining psychedelic rock with bossa nova and samba,and overthe yearscontinued to influence contemporarymusic,particularly rock musicians like Kurt Cobain, Beck,David Byrne and KevinBarnesofOfMontreal Thegroup reunitedin2006 and —consistently helmed by original memberSergioDias— hasbeen actively recordingand touringeversince.OsMutantes playsGasaGasaat9p.m Wednesday, Feb. 22.Tickets are $20via ticketweb.com

Thrillville Fair

THETRAVELINGFAIRFEATURES

AMUSEMENTRIDES,ASEALION

SPLASHSHOW,AERIALISTS,tightrope walkers, andmore. Rides include roller coasters, aferris wheel, bumper cars,a giant slideand more.Thereare carnivalgameslikeringtossand shooting galleries.Concessions include funnelcake, cotton candyand turkey legs.The fair is at theShrineonAirline from Friday,Feb.24, to March 5. It opensat5p.m.Monday through Friday,and at 1p.m.on weekends. Admission$10.Visit thethrillville.com/metairie fordetails

Katt Williams

NOWINHISTHIRDDECADEAS

ASTAND-UPCOMEDIAN,Katt Williamsdoesn’tseem to settle foranythingless than arena and largetheater tours.His latest special, “World WarIII,” is nowonNetflix.Williams is on the2023and Me Tour,with a show at 8p.m.Friday, Feb. 24, at theUNO LakefrontArena Ticketsstart at $59via arena.uno.edu

Cole Williams andPapaMali

SINGERCOLEWILLIAMSREGULARLY FILLSHERSOULFULMUSIC with messages aboutjusticeand socialissues. She’s joined by singer-guitaristPapaMalifor ashowat8 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 25,atBuffa’s.Findmore info at buffasbar.com.

LPOplays themusic of John Williams

BETWEEN“STARWARS,”“E.T.,”THE “HARRYPOTTER”MOVIES,“JAWS,”

“Indiana Jones” andnumerous other film franchises, everyone knowsa song composed by John Williams. He’s oneofthe most celebrated composers of thelast 100years —and is soon retiring afterone last “Indiana Jones” outing.The Louisiana PhilharmonicOrchestra,led by Julian Pellicano,will perform pieces by Williamsina concert at 7:30 p.m. Saturday,Feb.25, at TheOrpheum Theater. Tickets startat$25 via lpomusic.com.

Steele Pulse

DAVIDHINDSANDSELWYNBROWN HAVELEDTHEBRITISHROOTSREGGAEBAND through thedecades.

In 2019,after a14-year drought, they released thealbum “Mass Manipulation,”which drew a Grammynominationfor Best ReggaeAlbum.Gitkin opens at 8p.m.Thursday, Feb. 23,at HouseofBlues.Findtickets via houseofblues.com

BigChief KevinGoodman and theFlaming Arrows

THEST.CLAUDEARTSPARKHOSTS

BIGCHIEFKEVINGOODMAN and theFlaming Arrows presenting traditionalMardi Gras Indian chants and musicat7 p.m. Sunday,Feb.26. Theconcertsis free. Find more information at zeitgeistnola.org.

Reggie Houston

SAXOPHONISTREGGIEHOUSTONSPENT 22YEARSINFATSDOMINO’SBAND

In 2004,hemovedtoPortland, Oregon,and he’sfocused more on jazz. He’s developedprojects celebratinglesser known New Orleans musiciansand music history. Theseshows area tribute to Fats,and he’sjoined by Amasa Miller on piano and RussellBatiste on drums. At 8p.m.and 10 p.m. Sunday,Feb.26, at Snug Harbor Tickets$25 viasnugjazz.com

LooseCattleand

Ever More Nest

IT’SABILLOFFOLK,COUNTRY ANDAMERICANAWITHMICHAEL CERVERIS’LOOSECATTLE and KelcyWilburn’sEverMoreNest Joyand hope breakthrough theblues andself-reflection on her 2022 album“OutHere Now.”At9 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 23,atd.b.a.Tickets$15 viaeventbrite.com.

MUSIC

FOR COMPLETE MUSIC LISTINGS AND MORE EVENTS TAKING PLACE IN THE NEW ORLEANS AREA,VISIT CALENDAR.GAMBITWEEKLY.COM

To learn moreabout adding your event to the music calendar,please email listingsedit@gambitweekly.com

Note:DuetoCOVID-19,eventsmayhavecertainrestrictionsormaybepostponed;werecommendchecking outavenuessocialmediasitesorcallbeforeyougoforthemostuptodateinformation

TUESDAY21

BJ'S LOUNGE —Sam Dooresand Friends, 4pm

BLUE NILE —The Fessters, 5pm; George BrownBand,8 pm

BLUE NILE BALCONY ROOM —J-Sin and theStrange Revelation,3pm

DOSJEFES —Joe Krown, 8:30pm

FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB

Richard“Piano”Scott, 12:30 pm; CollinMyers Band,5 pm;Fritzel's AllStar Band,8 pm

WEDNESDAY22

BLUE NILE —New BreedBrass Band,9pm

DOSJEFES —KrisTokarski,8:30 pm

FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB

—Richard“Piano”Scott, 12:30 pm; Bourbon StreetStars,5 pm;Fritzel's AllStar Band,8 pm

GASA GASA —OsMutanteswith Esme Patterson,9pm

KERRYIRISH PUB —Patrick Cooper,8:30 pm

PRESERVATIONHALL —Preservation

All-Stars feat.Branden Lewis, 5, 6:15, 7:30 &8:45pm

ROYALFRENCHMENHOTEL &BAR Blazin Brass,6 pm

SATURN BAR —Faith Kelly, Caswyn Moon,9 pm

SNUG HARBORJAZZBISTRO —Phil DeGruy,8 &10pm

SOUTHPORT HALL —Concepts of Fear Tour:Snake Father,bottomfeeders, Wasted Creation,7 pm

THEBOMBAYCLUB —Harry Mayronne and Yvette Voelker, 8pm

THEJAZZPLAYHOUSE —Funkin' It Up withBig Sam, 7:30 pm

THURSDAY23

BLUE NILE —WhereY'atBrass Band,9 pm

D.B.A. NEW ORLEANS —Loose Cattle and Ever More Nest,9 pm

DOSJEFES —MissAnna Quinn, 8:30 pm

FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB

Richard“Piano”Scott, 12:30 pm; Doyle CooperBand, 2:30 pm;John SaavedraTrio, 6pm; Fritzel'sAll Star Band,8pm

KITCHENTABLE CAFÉ —Dr. Mark St Cyr Traditional Jazz Band,6:30 pm

LE BONTEMPS ROULE —Soul Rebels, 11 pm

NEUTRAL GROUND COFFEE HOUSE

GraceLagard,9 pm

PEACOCKROOM, HOTELFONTENOT —DaLovebirds withRobin Barnes andPat Casey,8pm

PRESERVATIONHALL —Preservation

All-Stars feat.WendellBrunious, 5, 6:15,7:30 &8:45pm

ROCK 'N'BOWL —HoraceTrahan& OssunExpress,8 pm

SATURN BAR —Tom Andes Band, EmilyNeustromand theFried Honeys,9 pm

SNUG HARBOR JAZZ BISTRO Betty ShirleyTribute to Nina Simone, 8&10pm

THEJAZZPLAYHOUSE —Brass-AHolics,7:30 pm

FRIDAY24

ABITABREWPUB —Patrick Cooper, 6pm

BJ'S LOUNGE —Valerie Sassyfras, 9pm

BLUE NILE —The Caesar Brothers, 7 pm;KermitRuffins andthe Barbecue Swingers,11pm

BLUE NILE BALCONY ROOM —Trumpet Slim &Brass Flavor,10pm

DOSJEFES —Afrodiziac'sJazz, 9pm

FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB Richard“Piano”Scott,12:30 pm;Sam Friend Band,2:30 pm;Lee Floydand Thunderbolt Trio, 6pm; Fritzel'sAll Star Band,9 pm

GASA GASA —The LowBlowwith HeyThanks!,The Nancies, Basically Vacant,9 pm

GEORGE ANDJOYCEWEINJAZZ&

HERITAGE CENTER —Lulu&The Broadsides,8 pm

HIDEAWAY DEN&ARCADE —Box Office Giants,8 pm

HONKY TONK BOURBON STREET —Ron Hotstream &The MidCity Drifters,8pm

NEUTRAL GROUND COFFEE HOUSE Fith andFriends,7:30 pm

PRESERVATIONHALL —Preservation All-Starsfeat. MarkBraud,5,6:15, 7:30 &8:45 pm

REPUBLIC NOLA —Heavy Bass Pajama Slam feat.SEVNN,10pm

ROCK 'N'BOWL —Sugar Shaker,8:30pm

ROYALFRENCHMENHOTEL &BAR

BigEasyBrawlers, 10 pm

SANTOS —Bill Callahan withPascal Kerong'A,8 pm

SATURN BAR —LittleFreddie King,10pm

SIDNEY'S SALOON —DarkLounge Ministries,7 &8pm

SMOOTHIEKING CENTER Alabama,7 pm

SNUG HARBORJAZZBISTRO

Dr.Michael White&Original Liberty Jazz Band,8&10pm

SOUTHPORT HALL

Sledgehammer, 8pm

SATURDAY25

BLUE NILE —George BrownBand, 7pm; Street LegendsBrass Band,10:30 pm

BLUE NILE BALCONY ROOM

TheMarigny StreetBrass Band, 10 pm;StreetLegends Brass Band,10:30 pm

DOSJEFES —Betty Shirley, 9pm

FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB

Richard“Piano”Scott, 12:30 pm;Steve Detroy Band,2:30 pm;Lee Floydand Thunderbolt Trio,6pm; Fritzel'sAll Star Band,9 pm

GASA GASA —Orange Doors,Secret Cowboy,Goatman Express,9pm

GEORGE ANDJOYCEWEINJAZZ &HERITAGECENTER —Erica Falls, 8pm

JEANLAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK VISITORCENTER, NEWORLEANSJAZZNATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK —Drum &DanceCirclewith Voodoo QueenKalindahLaveaux, 10:30 am;Lilli Lewis, 2pm

KERRYIRISH PUB —Patrick Cooper,9 pm

KITCHENTABLE CAFÉ —Bayou Manouche,6:30 pm

NEUTRAL GROUND COFFEEHOUSE SebastianMiscenich,7:30 pm

PRESERVATIONHALL —Preservation All-Stars feat.WendellBrunious, 2:30 &3:45pm; Preservation All-Stars feat.Shannon Powell, 5, 6:15,7:30 &8:45pm

ROCK 'N'BOWL —Nashville South,8:30pm

SNUG HARBOR JAZZ BISTRO GermaineBazzleand CharlieGabriel withLarry Sieberth Trio, 8&10pm

THEJAZZPLAYHOUSE —The Nayo JonesExperience, 7:30 &9pm

SUNDAY26

BLUE NILE —The BakedPotatoes, 7pm; StreetLegends Brass Band,10pm

DOSJEFES —MichaelLiuzza& Co., 8pm

FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB BanjoonBourbon with Seva Venet, 11 am;Joe KennedyBand,2pm; Marla DixonBand,5 pm

HONKY TONK BOURBON STREET

RonHotstream &The MidCity Drifters,8 pm

NOLABREWING TAPROOM —Jamie Bernstein and theYakameiniacs: JohnnyCashBirthdayTribute,6 pm

PRESERVATIONHALL —Leroy Jones &the PreservationJazzMasters, 2:30 &3:45pm; Preservation All-Stars, 5, 6:15,7:30 &8:45pm

SNUG HARBOR JAZZ BISTRO Reggie Houston TributetoFats Domino, 8&10pm

THEJAZZPLAYHOUSE —The Wolfe John BluesBand,7:30 pm

MONDAY27

D.B.A. NEW ORLEANS —RAM Haitian Voodoo Rara Music, 9pm DOSJEFES —JohnFohl,8:30pm

FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB MondayAfternoonAll Stars, 12:30 pm; LeeFloyd and Thunderbolt Trio, 5pm; Richard"Piano"Scottand Friends,8pm

GASA GASA —Shape,9 pm

PRESERVATIONHALL —The Preservation Brass,5,6:15, 7:30 &8:45pm

SATURN BAR —BCCooganPiano Night,8pm

SIDNEY'S SALOON —The Amazing Henrietta, 6pm

Windfalls

by Jake Clapp

THERE’SALOTERICAFALLSIS EXCITEDABOUT rightnow

Earlier this month, apiece shesangon, “Stompin’Ground” —a collaborationbetween AaronNevilleand The DirtyDozen Brass Band forthe musicdocumentary “TakeMetothe River: NewOrleans” wonthe GrammyAward forBestAmerican Roots Performance. She’salso looking forwardtoseveral prominent festival spotsthisspring, includingatthe French QuarterFestival and theNew Orleans Jazz & HeritageFestival

Andshe’sinthe homestretchin wrappingupher newsolo album, “Emotions,”out laterthisyear.

“I’m justexcited forpeopleto really seenow whoI am as an artist,”Falls says from hercar.She had just finished aphotoshoot forthe artworktoher newalbum when Gambit called last week.(And Fallswas moreexcited aboutTaco Tuesdaythan forValentine’sDay, shesaidwitha laugh.)

Locals canhearsomeofFalls’ newmusic this week at her setat theNew Orleans Jazz &Heritage Center. Fallsisperformingaspart of theJazz&HeritageFoundation’s “Chanteuse”series, celebrating New Orleans womeninmusic.Lulu& TheBroadsidesopensthe series on Friday,Feb.24, and performances include TheSarah Quintana Band (March 3),EverMoreNest (March 4), TheNayoJones Experience(March 10)and Sharon Martin (March 11). Ticketsare $10for eachconcert.

“People know me as asinger,” Falls says,“butI’m also asongwriter and an artist, anditencompassesquite afew things,soI’m excitedtoshine more of alight on that side of me.” Falls— whogrewupinthe 9th Ward withparents whoplayed Nina Simone, Aretha Franklin, Stevie Wonder andother powerhouse singers—has overthe years used her ownpowerfulvoice to sing with other musicians,includingDr. John,IrmaThomasand Jennifer Hudson.Falls regularly worked with AllenToussaint,and shewas funk quintetGalactic’s go-tovocalistfor severalyears

ButFalls developedsoloprojects overthe years,likethe 2011 EP,“Me, Myself and Music,”and herfirst fulllength,“HomeGrown,”in2018. And by thefollowing year,Falls decided

to focusmoreonher solo career (although shestill occasionally performsasa guest vocalist).

Falls’ solo music is rooted in rhythm and blues, andon“HomeGrown,” shedrewonvintagesoulinfluences. With “Emotions,”Falls continuesto explore her neo-soul sound.

“Itwill have theability to take you somewhereand make youfeelor remember aplace,but thelyricswill also draw youintowhatthe storyis saying,” shesays. “And musically,it hastoday’s feel.”

Fallsstarted working on the albumatthe beginningof2022, collecting agroup of songsthat reflecther emotionsthrough the pandemic,living in Americaasa Blackwoman, love andother poignant feelings

Thefirst single,the funky“Let’s GetDownTonight,” wasreleased right before the2022JazzFest and featured rapper Lyrics Born Another rapper,Chali2na,guests on Falls’ second single “One Stop Shop,”and thealbum will include contributionsbyJamison Ross, Donald Ramsey and Chris Adkins amongother NewOrleans players.

In September,Falls lost her mother,and amid allofthe recent activity,she’sgoingone dayata time,she says

“It’sbeen aweird spacetobe in,” Fall says.“It’s almost like you’re in theocean andyou neverknow when thewave is goingtocome.

Musicand working on this newprojectand goingtothe studio every weekend… it really hashelpedme in thehealingprocess.”

Falls performs 8p.m.Saturday, Feb. 25,atthe Jazz &Heritage Center. Find info at jazzandheritage.org.Find Falls’ music at ericafalls.com

PHOTO BY SCOTTTHRELKELD / THETIMES-PICAYUNE VocalistEricaFallsiscurrently finishinghernewsoloalbum, ‘Emotions,’outlaterthisyear

DININGSpring iscomingsoon! GUIDE

by Will Coviello

DAMIENECHOLSWASINPRISON

thefirst time he saw“The MothmanProphecies.”Though it’s aHollywood thriller about supernaturalphenomena,it touchedonelementsofmagick, which hadhelpedhim focus hislifeand maintainhis sanity whilefightingfor hiseventual release. He wassentenced to deathlong before DNAtesting wascapable of tyingthree child murderstoanother man

It’s been more than adecade sinceEcholsregainedhis freedom andreleasedthe best-selling book, “LifeAfter Death,”about thewrongfulconvictionand hisyears on death row. This week,he’ll seethe film on abig screen forthe firsttime. Echols and hiswifemovedtoNew Orleans from NewYorkin2020, during theheightofthe pandemic shutdowns. He’s curated aseries of hisfavorite movies at TheBroad Theater, andhe’ll introduce“The MothmanProphecies”and participate in adiscussionafter thescreeningat7 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 23

Echols wasone of threeteenagersdubbed theWest Memphis Three. They were arrested forthe murder of three8-year-old boys in 1993. Theother twowereminors, and only Echols wassentenced to die by lethal injection.Echols’ plight attractedattention,including from PearlJam’s Eddie Vedderand “Lordofthe Rings” directorPeter Jackson,who provided funding for some of theDNA testingthatled to hisrelease, although technically, Echols wasdeniedexoneration.

While incarcerated,Echolshad turned to Buddhismand Daoism, though he eventually decided they were notworking forhim.What opened thedoor wasareturnto magick he hadbeenexposed to as aboy,atfirst from reading tabloid newspaper adssuggesting magick could hold thekeystounderstandingthe universe.The practice of ceremonialmagickinvolvescontemplation,mediation andmore.

“Equivalent to what Buddhists call ‘enlightenment,’inmagick, they call it thegreat work,” he says “Completion of thegreat work reaching thedestinationthatwe came into this worldtoachieve, which is this consciousawakening to ourtruenature.”

Echols haswritten severalbooks aboutmagick,including “High Magick:A Guidetothe Spiritual PracticesThatSavedMyLifeon

DeathRow.” He hasafollowing on Patreon, wherehediscusses thepractice.

At themoment, Echols is not planningonwriting further aboutit. Since moving to NewOrleans,he’s gotten hisfirst driver’s licenseand he and hiswifehave joined aboxing club. He hasaYouTube channel aboutexploring hisfavoritecities.

At theinvitationofthe Broad Theater, he’s screeningmovies, and allthree touchonaspects of magick

Thesupernaturalmystery “The MothmanProphecies” stars RichardGereasa reporterwho is drawnintoa worldofunexplained phenomenon afterhis wife dies followingencounterswithafigure onlyshe could see. It’s based on accounts of events,including the deadly collapse of theSilver Bridge, in Point Pleasant, West Virginia,in the1960s.Echolsvisited thearea followinghis release from prison

“Itdoesanexcellent job— as much as youpossiblycan in amainstream Hollywoodmovie —toput atoe into themechanics of howthe universe operates andhow it doesn’t always make sensefromascientificperspective or areligious or academic perspective,” Echols says

Theother filmsinclude “A Dark Song,” ahorrorstory abouta woman whoenlists an occultist goneastraytotry to communicate with her dead son. “Lucy,” starring Scarlett Johansson,has more ofa sci-fischeme, as adrug mule accidently ingestshighamounts of illicit substances and develops superhuman consciousness.

“Hollywood takesliberties with these things to make them entertaining,” Echols says.“Forme, this is away to getpeople to watchthree of my favorite movies of alltime.”

PHOTO PROVIDED BY DAMIENECHOLS

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