Gambit Bars and Cocktails 2021

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November 9-15 2021 Volume 42 Number 44

14

The Struggle To Keep Black Owned Bars Alive

18

Parklets Are Here to Stay

21

Cocktails to Rock Tails at Your Holiday Hoedown

22

Bartenders Are Adjusting to Forever Pandemic Reality


G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 0 2 1

BULLETIN BOARD

Cristina’s

Family owned and operated since 1996

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LAYLA Kennel A48476075 Layla is a five-year-old black and brown Tabby, who came to the shelter when her owner could no longer care for her. She is packed with personality and is loved by everyone who meets her. Layla loves to play but when she’s worn out she loves to chill on the couch with her humans. Layla can’t wait to find her fur-ever home! With the outbreak of COVID-19, we have moved our adoption process to appointment only. Fill out the adoption application on our website, www.la-spca.org, and a staff member will call you back within 24 hours to schedule your appointment.


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It’s time to celebrate life again!

Some of your best moments with families and friends are spent at your favorite restaurants. Make your reservations now and be a part of the celebration of food that is New Orleans. For more information and to find a restaurant, visit NewOrleans.com/FallFoodCelebration

Stay healthy. Be vaccinated. New Orleans restaurants require patrons to show proof of vaccination, or a recent negative test.


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5

NOVEMBER 9 — 15, 2021 VOLUME 42 || NUMBER 44

BAR ISSUE

love our

Parklets Are Here to Stay...........18 Cocktails to Rock Tails at Your Holiday Hoedown................21 Bartenders Are Adjusting to Forever Pandemic Reality ......... 22

clogs

NEWS Opening Gambit .............................10 Clancy DuBos...................................11 Commentary...................................12 Election 2021 Gambit Endorsements.................12 Blake Pontchartrain .....................13

FEATURES

PHOTO BY DOMONIQUE TOLLIVER

14

Fall Bar Issue

The Struggle to Keep Black-Owned Bars Open

S TA F F

Arts & Entertainment ....................6 Eat + Drink...................................... 34 Music Listings................................40 Music ................................................ 43 Film ...................................................46 Puzzles............................................. 47 COVER PHOTO BY S A R A H R AV I T S COVER DESIGN BY DORA SISON

EDITORIAL

Editor | JOHN STANTON Political Editor | CLANCY DUBOS Arts & Entertainment Editor | WILL COVIELLO

Staff Writers | JAKE CLAPP,

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS Billing Inquiries 1 (225) 388-0185 Administrative Assistant | LINDA LACHIN

ADVERTISING

Advertising Inquiries (504) 483-3150 Advertising Director | SANDY STEIN BRONDUM (504) 483-3150

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Intern | RAE WALBERG

Sales Representatives

Contributing Writers | IAN MCNULTY

KELLY SONNIER (504) 483-3143

PRODUCTION Creative Director |

DORA SISON

Traffic Manager | JASON WHITTAKER Web & Classifieds Designer |

MARIA VIDACOVICH BOUÉ

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Gambit (ISSN 1089-3520) is published weekly by Capital City Press, LLC, 840 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, LA 70130. (504) 486-5900. We cannot be held responsible for the return of unsolicited manuscripts even if accompanied by a SASE. All material published in Gambit is copyrighted: Copyright 2021 Capital City Press, LLC. All rights reserved.

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CONTENTS


G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

6

A R T S + E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Through the depths

Silver Godling looks through trauma and the body on ‘Witness, Unweave’ | by Jake Clapp EMILY MCWILLIAMS IS GAZING INWARD.

On “Witness, Unweave,” her third full-length album as Silver Godling, McWilliams looks through the layers of herself to understand her mental health and the difficult emotions and unresolved traumas that linger in the body. The process isn’t an exorcism but a better recognition of herself in total. Anxiety is “this thing that I have for so long, for decades, considered this thing that needs to be fixed or extracted as though it’s not me,” McWilliams says. “And kind of coming to the realization and the acceptance of that in some ways, at least for me personally, my anxiety manifests as a way to protect myself from situations, from people, from whatever makes me feel unsafe.” “You could fill in the blank there,” she adds, “but it is kind of that concept that this thing I viewed as ‘other’ and needs to be gotten rid of and realizing that it’s really just a part of my own self kicking into gear to protect myself.” Across the seven tracks of “Witness, Unweave,” McWilliams dissects the snares that haunt her — anxiety, depression, identity, emotional snares, the tenuous exchanges of safety and individuality — in poetic verse and expressive, dynamic voice. McWilliams builds on spare, curving piano playing with electronic instrumentation, drum machine and layered vocals for songs that feel unfathomable. “Witness, Unweave” will be released Friday, Nov. 12, through Strange Daisy Records. The physical, LP edition of the album will come with a lyrics and photography booklet made with New Orleans photographer Craig Mulcahy. Before the pandemic reached New Orleans, McWilliams was already considering exploring topics around mental health in new Silver Godling music. At her last show, in February 2020, she says, she played the song “Unwanted, Yet Familiar,” which ended up paired with the song “May I” — the tracks around 10 minutes apiece — for a prelude EP released in September. “That was just kind of part of where I was in my life, how it was naturally unfolding and I wanted to direct it that way,” McWilliams says. For the albums “Silver Godling,” released in 2019, and “Ravel” released in 2020, McWilliams collaborated with other musicians, including Kallie Tiffault, Beck Levy

Sarah Tollemache

NEW YORK COMEDIAN SARAH TOLLEMACHE has appeared on

Comedy Central, including “Roast Battle,” and various late-night TV shows, and hosts the podcast “Vadge.” She performs at 8:30 p.m. Friday, Nov. 12, at Dragon’s Den. Tickets start at $12 at itsgoodcomedy.com.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SAR AH TOLLEMACHE

and Stephen Weigand. McWilliams has been a longtime collaborator with Thou and the band’s guitarist Andy Gibbs contributed electronics and guitar on Silver Godling’s debut. Mitch Wells, Thou’s bassist and a videographer, directed the music video for the “Witness, Unweave” single “Descent to Heart.” McWilliams says she likely would have approached “Witness, Unweave” in the same way as “Ravel,” writing the songs and hand-picking friends to help record the album in the studio. But the pandemic didn’t make that possible. McWilliams recorded everything herself in her home — her dog and the neighborhood get sound credits in the liner notes. It was a different experience. McWilliams, who is also a piano teacher and professional piano tuner, loves going into the studio, she says, but she felt there was new room for creativity. There were new options, new ways to write and fewer time and money constraints. It positively impacted the record. “I feel like it’s a very accurate realization,” she says. “It’s so hard sometimes for any creative type, getting the things that are existing in your head out and the way you want it to be — I feel like I did that on this one. There’s an authenticity to it I was able to achieve.” Originally, McWilliams envisioned the photography collaboration with Mulcahy paired with the album as featuring a group of other people. She admits she feels uncomfortable

PROVIDED PHOTO BY CRAIG MULCAHY

Silver Godling’s new ‘Witness, Unweave’ is paired with a photography collaboration with Craig Mulcahy. being in the spotlight and wanted to highlight a range of bodies and personalities interpreting her songs. Again, the pandemic put a wrench in the plan. Instead Mulcahy captures McWilliams in postures, influenced by her yoga practice, with tightframed shots and a muted palette. “I was still trying to come up with a way for other people to model and interpret my music, and [Mulcahy] kept saying, ‘Emily, I think this needs to be you,’” McWilliams says. “I think he was aware of the topic of the album and it’s deep dive, so to speak.” “Witness, Unweave” is an emotionally charged record, McWilliams says. It’s incredibly personal, but it doesn’t have to mean the same thing to the listener as it meant to her. “But,” she says, “I would still hope there’s some kind of an imprint that gives someone a little relief or helps them find something out about themselves that they needed to know.” Silver Godling plays an intimate, seated performance with Ex Specter on Dec. 4 in Gasa Gasa’s courtyard. Tickets are $10 in advance. Find “Witness, Unweave” and more about Silver Godling at silvergodling.com.

Pacifica Quartet

THE GRAMMY-WINNING STRING QUARTET is joined by Anthony

McGill, an award-winning soloist and principal clarinetist for the New York Philharmonic, for a program including works by Sergei Prokofiev, Johannes Brahms and James Lee III. At 7:30 p.m. Tuesday, Nov. 9, at Tulane University’s Dixon Hall. Tickets $35 on friendsofmusic.org.

YLC’s One Night Only

THE YOUNG LEADERSHIP COUNCIL’S WEDNESDAYS AT THE SQUARE con-

cert series has been upended by lockdowns and Hurricane Ida. The group is holding a concert fundraiser for the series’ 2022 return featuring Big Sam’s Funky Nation, Mia Borders and Alexis & the Samurai at 6 p.m. Wednesday, Nov. 10, at the Civic Theatre. Tickets are $25 at civicnola.com.

Three Rivers Art Festival

THE FESTIVAL FEATURES ARTISTS AND CRAFT PEOPLE AT 200 TENTS stretched

over five blocks of downtown Covington from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday, Nov. 13, and Sunday, Nov. 14. There also are demonstrations, food vendors and more. Charmaine Neville performs at a free concert at the Covington Trailhead at 5:30 p.m. Saturday. Festival admission is free. Visit covingtonthreeriversartfestival.com for information. PAGE 46


Lot 606: French Louis XIV Style Carved Walnut Commode, c. 1800, H.- 30 3/8 in., W.- 49 3/4 in., D.- 22 in. Est. $1,200-$1,800

Lot 531: Pair of Chinese Watercolors on Silk Depicting “The Ten Courts of Hell,” possibly “The Second Court of Hell with Yama: King Chujiang” and “The Ninth Court of Hell with Yama: King Pingdeng,” 18th/19th c., Largest H.- 49 1/2 in., W.- 29 3/8 in. Est. $10,000-$12,000

IMPORTANT NOVEMBER ESTATES AUCTION Friday, November 12th

beginning at 11 am, Lots 1-300

Saturday, November 13th

beginning at 10 am, Lots 301-800

Lot 571: Noel Rockmore (19281995, New Orleans), “Bike Chick,” 1965, acrylic on canvas, signed and dated upper right, titled on paper en verso, H.- 50 in., W.- 24 in. Est. $2,000-$4,000

Lot 436: William Tolliver (1951-2000, Mississippi/ Louisiana), “Untitled Field Workers,” c. 1985, oil on canvas, signed lower left, H.- 35 1/4 in., W.- 47 1/4 in. Est. $8,000-$10,000

Sunday, November 14th

beginning at 10 am, Lots 801-1100 Full color catalog available at:

Lot 563: French Empire Style Ormolu Mounted Carved Walnut Marble Top Secretary Abattant, 20th c., H.- 57 in., W.- 31 1/2 in., D.- 17 3/4 in. Est. $500-$900

www.crescentcityauctiongallery.com Lot 555: French Provincial Inlaid Carved Walnut Louis XV Style Sideboard, 19th c., H.- 39 in., W.- 56 1/2 in., D.- 24 1/4 in. Est. $800-$1,200

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Lot 455: After Michelangelo (1475-1564), “Lorenzo de Medici,” late 19th c., patinated Barbedienne bronze, H.- 14 1/4 in., W.- 5 3/8 in., D.- 7 in. Est. $500-$900; Lot 464: After Gaston Leroux (1854-1942, French), “Gilt Bronze Orientalist Maiden,” late 19th c., perhaps Cleopatra, H.- 28 1/2 in., W.- 11 1/2 in., D.- 10 in. Est. $800-$1,200; Lot 463: Pair of Gilt Spelter Renaissance Style Figural Ewers, late 19th c., on circular figured gray marble bases, H.- 24 1/2 in., W.- 6 1/2 in., D.- 8 1/2 in. Est. $400-$800 Lot 457: Pair of Large Patinated Spelter Art Nouveau Busts, late 19th c., of an Arab man and woman, H.- 29 in., W.- 14 in., D.-9 1/2 in. Est. $1,000-$1,500

Lot 641: Niek van der Plas (1954-, Dutch), “Preservation Hall Brass Band,” 20th c., oil on panel, signed lower right, H.- 15 9/16 in., W.- 23 1/2 in. Est. $1,800-$2,500

Lot 952: Kawai Carved Mahogany Baby Grand Piano, Ser. # 471353, 1970, H.- 40 1/4 in., W.- 58 3/4 in., D.- 60 1/2 in. Est. $1,500-$2,500

Lot 444: James Michalopoulos (1951-, Pennsylvania/New Orleans), “French Quarter Scene,” 2018, oil on canvas, initialed lower left, signed and dated en verso, H.- 14 in., W.- 11 in. Est. $1,500-$2,500

Lot 681: Seventy-Two Piece Set of Sterling Silver Flatware By Buccelatti, 20th c., in the “Old Italian” pattern, Total Silver Wt.- 80.1 Troy Oz. Est. $2,500-$4,500

Lot 518: Pair of Large Cast Iron Campana Form Garden Urns, 20th c., the relief rim over side with relief classical figures, on a socle support to a stepped tapering plinth, Urn- H.- 40 in., Dia.- 30 in., Total H.- 56 in. Est. $1,500-$2,500

Lot 652: Michelangelo Meucci (1840-1890, Italy), Pair of Nature Morte Paintings, “A Woodcock and Mallard Duck,” and “Hungarian Partridge and Woodcock,” 1875, oil on panel, signed and dated at the bottom, H.- 18 in., W.- 13 5/8 in. Est. $800-$1,200

Lots 141-146: Selection of Pre-Columbian Pottery Est. $300-$500 each.

Crescent City Auction Gallery, LLC 1330 St.Charles Ave, New Orleans, La 70130 504-529-5057 • fax 504-529-6057 info@crescentcityauctiongallery.com 25% Buyers Premium For a complete catalog, visit our website at: www.crescentcityauctiongallery.com LA Auc Lic AB-411, 1354, 1529

Lot 532: A Rare Pair of Imperial Cloisonne and Enamel Lingzhi Fungus Jardinieres, with the raised Qianlong mark, the lids removable for use as jardinieres, H.- 26 in., Dia.- 8 in., Jardinieres- H.- 9 3/4 in., Dia.- 8 in. Est. $10,000-$15,000

Lot 402: French Louis XVI Style Carved Beech Giltwood Five Piece Parlor Suite, late 19th c., consisting of a settee and four fauteuils, Settee- H.- 39 1/2 in., W.- 49 in., D.28 in. Est. $1,200-$1,800

Lot 482: Southern Carved Mahogany New Orleans Style Bed, 19th c., formerly a half tester, H.- 79 in., Int. W.- 59 in., Int. D.- 75 in. Est. $600-$900; Lot 483: New Orleans Carved Mahogany Rococo Single Door Armoire, mid 19th c., possibly William McCracken, H.- 108 in., W.- 60 in., D.- 26 in. Est. $700-$1,200

Lot 421: Fine Antique Persian Kirman Carpet, c. 1910, 9’ 6 x 12’ 9. Est. $1,500-$2,000

Lot 936: Continental Three Panel Hand Painted Leather Screen, 18th/19th c., H.84 in., Each Panel- W.- 32 1/8 in, Total W.- 96 in., D.- 1 1/4 in. Est. $2,000-$4,000

Lot 462: Continental Gilt Bronze Figural Mantel Clock, 19th c., with a seated figure of a classical warrior, H.- 20 1/2 in., W.- 19 1/2 in., D.- 5 1/2 in. Est. $800-$1,200

Lot 934: Ira Monte (1918-, Spain), “Birds in a Swamp,” late 20th c., oil on canvas, signed lower right, H.- 29 3/8 in., W.- 39 1/2 in. Est. $1,200-$1,800


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PROMOTIONAL CONTENT

Saints can still see fantasy and on-field success with emergence of backups and primetime games By Amanda McElfresh, amcelfresh@theadvocate.com This article is brought to you by DraftKings.

Well, this wasn’t what the Saints had in mind. Just as quarterback Jameis Winston seemed to be getting a better feel for the playbook and earning more trust from Head Coach Sean Payton, he went down for the year on Halloween with a torn ACL. It’s disappointing, to say the least, and leaves question marks about where the Saints offense will go from here. From a daily fantasy perspective, the rest of the Saints quarterback room deserves a hard look. Taysom Hill is expected back from a concussion in early to mid-November. As QB2 behind Winston, he’ll certainly see his share of snaps. But Payton also likes using the versatile Hill as a running back and receiver. That means the next backup, Trevor Siemian, could continue to see significant playing time. The 29-year-old Siemian has been a capable journeyman quarterback in his career. On Halloween, his numbers weren’t gaudy – 159

passing yards, one touchdown and a 55.2% completion percentage. But he showed a grasp of Payton’s offense and a willingness to throw short passes rather than going for a big play every snap. That’s something Payton appreciates and will look for more in the future. In his career, Siemian has completed 59% of his passes for 5,848 yards and 31 touchdowns. Again, not stellar, but certainly something to build on, especially if he can build a rapport with receivers like Michael Thomas (expected back from injury in the coming weeks), Marquez Callaway and Kenny Stills. The Saints will likely rely more on their running game heading into the heart of the season. Running back Mark Ingram had only 27 yards on six carries against Tampa Bay on Halloween in his first game back with the Saints after a trade with the Houston Texans. But those numbers are likely to increase in the coming weeks as Ingram readjusts to the Saints playbook. Ingram has rushed for 50 touchdowns and more than 6,000 yards in his career, so Payton knows he is a trustworthy option. Alvin Kamara will also get his fair share of touches. He has proven to be a great option out of the backfield on short passes, something Payton will look to with both Hill and Siemian. Fullback

Alex Armah had his first touchdown of the year against the Bucs and played well, so he may also prove to be a surprise offensive weapon down the stretch. The Saints have a couple of weeks to try to figure out a new offensive identity before a slew of primetime games, beginning with a nationally televised home contest on Thanksgiving night against the Buffalo Bills, whom some peg as a Super Bowl favorite out of the AFC. There’s something about primetime games, especially in New Orleans, that makes this team show out in the Payton era. As of the start of the season, the Saints were 36-18 in primetime games, including 26-6 at home. They won their first night game of 2021 on the road against Seattle on the October 25 edition of Monday Night Football. The Saints will follow this up with a Thursday Night Football contest at home against the Dallas Cowboys on December 2, where the biggest question might be the health of Cowboys QB Dak Prescott. Prescott is coming off a season-ending severe ankle injury last year and has already suffered a calf strain in 2021. Then, there are two more primetime games for the Saints in December: Sunday Night Football on December 19 at Tampa Bay and the Miami Dolphins at home on Monday, December 27.

To learn more or sign up, visit www.draftkings.com. Gambling problem? Call 1-877-770-STOP (7867). Availability of paid contests varies by Parish. Age and eligibility restrictions apply. See draftkings.com for details.


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10

OPENING GAMBIT NEW ORLEANS NEWS + VIEWS

The Krewe of Red Beans should start a Beanback initiative to fix the Saints’ QB situation

#

T H U M B S U P/ THUMBS DOWN

421,400

The Justice & Accountability Center of Louisiana, with the First 72+,

Orleans Public Defenders and Teamer Legal Corp., has cleared more than $1 million worth of traffic-related debt for formerly incarcerated people in Orleans Parish since 2019. Through a project called ReEntry Docket, the organizations have helped formerly incarcerated people reduce or eliminate overdue fines, fees and court costs in Orleans Municipal and Traffic Court. The delinquent fines and fees might otherwise prohibit them from obtaining driver’s licenses and other documents needed to reenter the community.

The Recording Academy’s Black Music Collective and Amazon Music have donated $10,000

to both Dillard University and Xavier University of Louisiana to help the Historically Black Colleges and Universities replace musical equipment and support music students following Hurricane Ida.

Mayor LaToya Cantrell’s administration is still soliciting bids to

convert the Municipal Auditorium at Congo Square into a new City Hall, despite widespread opposition, The Lens reported Nov. 3. Feeling the backlash from not only Treme residents but also from most of New Orleans, the city said it put their plans on hold in the summer, but The Lens reports the city’s purchasing records show it has extended the deadline for request for qualifications from architectural and engineering firms.

THE COUNT

P H O T O B Y J O H N O U B R E / T H E A D V O C AT E

Irvin Mayfield in 2019.

Irvin Mayfield and Ronald Markham sentenced to 18 months in prison for library fraud scandal TRUMPETER IRVIN MAYFIELD AND HIS BUSINESS PARTNER pianist Ronald

Markham were sentenced to 18 months in prison on Wednesday, a year after they pleaded guilty to defrauding the New Orleans Public Library Foundation out of more than $1 million. “I have no sympathy towards Mr. Markham. He stole $1.3 million dollars,” U.S. District Judge Jay C. Zainey said before the sentencing, according to WDSU’s Travers Mackel. “All I’m hearing is these poor guys, they stole $1.3 million.” Zainey also ordered Mayfield to three years of supervised release, to pay $1.1 million with Markham in restitution to the library foundation and to provide 500 hours of free music lessons to children once he’s released from prison. Both Mayfield and Markham acknowledged they used their positions as board members of the foundation to illegally funnel $1.3 million in funds for the foundation to their New Orleans Jazz Orchestra, which offers free rehearsal space to musicians, between 2011 and 2013, with the cover up lasting through 2017. In 2016, WWL-TV uncovered documents revealing Mayfield had used foundation money to pay for a $15,000 gold-plated trumpet, travel, limousines and expensive alcohol. Mayfield founded NOJO and was the artistic director as well as a featured performer, while Markham was the organization’s

president and CEO. Both received $100,000 salaries from NOJO, in addition to money for compositions and performances through Mayfield Publishing Co. At the trial, Barbara Waiters, former executive director of the library foundation, wrote a statement saying that the fraud hurt the library system by hurting fundraising efforts and causing two employees to be fired. Though Mayfield apologized for his actions, his attorney laid blame on everyone from WWL-TV reporter David Hammer, who first broke the story and has been reporting on the subject for years, to members of NOJO’s board. Mayor LaToya Cantrell made headlines when she spoke onstage before one of Mayfield’s concerts, urging the audience to “support a true son of the city of New Orleans, Irvin Mayfield.” Cantrell spokesperson Beau Tidwell later told WWL-TV, “The mayor believes in second chances, and in that sense, she did reach out to him and offer her support, as she would with any resident.” Kermit Ruffins, Sheriff Marlin Gusman and musicians Wynton Marsalis and Cyril Neville all asked the court to not jail Mayfield. But ultimately, the judge wasn’t swayed. “This is a sad day for the city of New Orleans,” he said upon the sentencing. “It was a fraud based on greed and arrogance.” — KAYLEE POCHE

THE NUMBER OF CHILDREN IN LOUISIANA WHO ARE BETWEEN THE AGES OF 5-11 AND ARE NOW POTENTIALLY ELIGIBLE FOR THE PFIZER COVID-19 VACCINE. Children in this age group represent about 9% of the total population in the state. Since August, 25% of new cases of COVID-19 were diagnosed among children. The Louisiana Department of Health has already ordered nearly 148,000 doses and expects to begin distributing them this week around the state.

C’EST W H AT

?

Was the city right to lift New Orleans’ mask mandate?

34.1%

NO. IT’S WAY TOO SOON, ESPECIALLY WITH THE HOLIDAY SEASON

31.8%

DO WHAT YOU WANT, BUT I’M STILL WEARING A MASK

32.7%

YES. COVID CASES HAVE BEEN LOW AND THE CITY IS READY

1.4%

DEF KEEPING MY PLAGUE DOCTOR COSTUME FOR 2022

Vote on “C’est What?” at www.bestofneworleans.com


@clancygambit

ORDER

A most unusual election season

11

Fall

Arrangement TODAY!

I SUSPECT NO ONE HAD “LATOYA CANTRELL GOES TO SCOTLAND in the

final two weeks of her re-election campaign” on their 2021 election bingo card. Yet, Heronner’s presentation at the UN COP20 conference on climate change seems like a fitting coda to this most unusual election season. Cantrell wasn’t the only disruptive force this election year. Hurricane Ida and the COVID-19 pandemic also had major impacts on candidates and voters. “Both the pandemic and the hurricane reduced the amount of money available in campaigns, which is likely to be a short-term change,” said pollster and political consultant Ron Faucheux. “Another change from the pandemic is less personal contact between candidates and voters, such as door-to-door campaigning and public meetings. While less personal contact may be short term, an increased use of video meetings and conferences could stick around for a while.” Pollster and Xavier University professor Silas Lee agrees. “Candidates can’t do fundraisers while people are struggling to recover from Ida — and we’re still in a Covid economy,” Lee said. Campaigns have always evolved, but changes often come gradually. This election cycle saw dramatic changes triggered by unprecedented events. “One thing that’s really different about this mayor’s race is that qualifying was early, and it was followed by a major event in Ida that provoked a lot of anger and changes in voter sentiment about city services, namely trash pickup,” said pollster and demographer Greg Rigamer. “I think if qualifying had occurred post-Ida, we’d see a different field of candidates in many races.” The fact that Cantrell faces a field of unknowns and enjoys high approval numbers takes the suspense out of what would normally be the marquee contest. Still, at least one race —for the City Council’s at-large Division 2 seat — saw the traditional pattern of

CURRENT HOURS: MON-FRI 7am-1pm /// SAT 7am-Noon

ays w l a ! s T i R e r E e S S Th r E o f D m Roo PHOTO BY MA X BECHERER / T H E T I M E S - P I C AY U N E

Mayor LaToya Cantrell. attacks, scandal and melodrama. “We’ve seen a lot of twists and turns in that race,” said Lee. “Kristin Palmer and Jared Brossett exchanged endorsements, then Jared got arrested for DWI — and then he suspended his campaign. After all that, we still saw some volunteers putting up signs and advocating for him.” Despite that bit of mishigas, Lee and Rigamer predict a smallerthan-usual turnout. “This is a distracted electorate,” said Lee. “People are dealing with insurance companies, contractors and trying to restore their lives after Ida. They feel overwhelmed.” “I think we’re looking at a turnout of about 75,000 to 80,000 voters,” said Rigamer, who tracked early voting trends. “That’s lower than what we’ve seen in most recent mayoral elections.” One other change Rigamer notes is the potential for older voters to have an outsized impact on election outcomes. “We’ve seen a big jump in mail ballots since Covid hit,” Rigamer said, noting that people 65 and older automatically qualify to vote by mail. “Mail ballots typically get used by about 70% of those who receive them. And since mail ballots tend to go more to older voters, who already vote in greater numbers than all others, this development really amplifies that trend of higher turnout among older voters.” That’s particularly true if overall turnout barely reaches 30%. Election Day is this Saturday.

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myriad places where we indulge in it — have long been a part of the life and culture in New Orleans. But drinking, particularly in a community that embraces having a few too many on occasion, comes with responsibility: namely, to celebrate in a way that doesn’t put others at risk. That starts with not getting behind the wheel of a car after imbibing, even a little. In 2018, 10,511 people died as a result of someone driving while impaired — including 216 Louisianans, according to responsibility.org, an organization comprised of cannabis, alcohol and delivery companies, among others. More than a million Americans were arrested that year for DUI — 5,650 of them in Louisiana. We see the evidence of this epidemic all around us. On Oct. 18, District D City Councilman Jared Brossett was arrested after he was found allegedly passed out behind the wheel of his vehicle in a Brother’s parking lot. Several days later, Wendell Lachney was arrested in connection with the death of 9-year-old Abby Douglas, who died when Lachney slammed into the back of her parent’s car while going at least 60 miles an hour. Police found open containers of whiskey and wine in his car. On Reddit, “flipped car” sightings in and around New Orleans are so common, they’ve created a special emoji for them. In the last four months there’s been more than two dozen flipped vehicle posts on Reddit, including four in a recent two week stretch. Drunk driving causes immeasurable trauma and loss that can last a lifetime for victims’ loved ones. Reagan Gurney was struck by a car at 9:15 p.m. on Oct. 8 while riding his bike through the 7th Ward. He died less than two weeks later. “Reagan was a wonderful goofball who loved dancing and making other people laugh,” Gurney’s friend Jennifer Griffith says of the 41-year-old. “He was the best part of so many people’s days and always brought enough Willie Mae’s chicken to feed a bar room of people.”

TheGambitBallot 2021 Gambit Endorsements

MAYOR

No Endorsement

SHERIFF

Susan Hutson

CITY COUNCIL AT LARGE DIVISION ONE Helena Moreno PROVIDED PHOTO

Reagan Gurney was struck by a car on the night of Oct. 8. He later died from his injuries. The driver who hit Gurney fled the scene, leaving him lying in the street. Police have yet to identify a suspect. Over the Halloween weekend, 12 people died in car crashes across Louisiana. Alcohol was a factor in many if not all of those tragedies. Those deaths would not have happened if the drivers had called an Uber, a Lyft, a cab or a friend — or just stayed put. There’s no reason to drive under the influence, especially in New Orleans. We have public transit and ridesharing services that can get you to anywhere, anytime. Even if you’re dead broke and drunk, it’s flat enough here to make walking home an option. Yet every day, too many partiers choose to put other people’s lives at risk. This selfish impulse isn’t the province of any one race, gender or class. From city council members to construction workers, from the West Bank to Metairie, all have done it. Bars are the incubators of our music and culture, our communal living rooms, our not-so-private confessionals and an air-conditioned comfort when it’s too hot to sit on the stoop. But there’s a bright line between enjoying oneself and putting others’ lives at risk. Let’s all do better at making the obvious, responsible choice by never drinking and driving.

AT LARGE DIVISION TWO JP Morrell DISTRICT A Joe Giarrusso DISTRICT B Lesli Harris DISTRICT C Freddie King III DISTRICT D Troy Glover OR Timolynn Sams DISTRICT E Cyndi Nguyuen

CONSTITUTIONAL AMENDMENTS AMENDMENT 1 YES

AMENDMENT 2 NO

AMENDMENT 3 YES

AMENDMENT 4 NO


13

@GambitBlake | askblake@gambitweekly.com

Hey Blake,

What can you tell me about the history of two distinctive churches on Robert E. Lee Boulevard: the Greek church near Bayou St. John and the Vietnamese church closer to Elysian Fields?

Dear reader,

HOLY TRINITY GREEK ORTHODOX CATHEDRAL , established

in New Orleans in 1864, was the first Greek Orthodox church in North and South America. The Greek community in New Orleans dates back to the mid1700s. According to the cathedral’s website, the earliest organized Greek Orthodox worship services here were held in 1864 in the Bayou Road home of businessman Nicholas Benachi. He later sold the church some property on North Dorgenois Street in Treme. With donations from other worshippers, the first local Greek church was built there. That original Holy Trinity church (which later added a school, parish house, library and cemetery) was replaced by a brick cathedral in 1950. In 1976, a much bigger cathedral was constructed at 1200 Robert E. Lee Blvd. Each Memorial Day weekend, the church and its Hellenic Cultural Center are the sites of the popular Greek Festival. Our Lady of La Vang Catholic Church in the 2100 block of Robert E. Lee was dedicated in 1992. It

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is located on the former site of Our Savior Lutheran Church. The Catholic church was founded as one of five mission churches of Mary Queen of Vietnam Church in New Orleans East. According to The Times-Picayune, the lakefront church is named after a reported 1798 apparition of the Blessed Mother to persecuted Catholics in the Vietnamese town of La Vang. The site became a major Catholic shrine in Vietnam and many Vietnamese communities outside the country continue to commemorate the event. The church features a large outdoor shrine to Our Lady of La Vang. Each May, a festival includes a procession through the neighborhood and a ceremony featuring elaborate Vietnamese dancing.

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G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

14

The B a R Issue

g g u l r e t S Theto Keep Black-Owned Bars Alive

PHOTO BY DAVID GRUNFELD / THE TIMES-PICAYUNE

Sportsman’s Corner bar in Central City.

Black-owned bars have helped cultivate and pass along New Orleans culture and identity for decades. Now they’re in jeopardy of disappearing. BY DOMONIQUE TOLLIVER FOR CAROL CUSHENBERRY, who along with her husband Freddie owns the First & Last Stop Bar, the bar business is something that’s run in her family for generations. Growing up in the Treme, her mother ran Mooney’s Bar at the corner of Ursulines Avenue and Marais Street. And she counts bar owners in her grandparents’ and great-grandparents’ generations as well. Cushenberry assumed ownership of the bar a year and a half before Hurricane Katrina when she inherited the building from its previous owner, Albert Rice Sr. She worked as an employee at the bar, and when the owner passed away, his family offered her the opportunity to buy it. “I was a barmaid on Tuesday, and that following Wednesday became the owner,” Cushenberry says. Now, Cushenberry and her daughter, Jeanette, say they are on a mission to bring the community together and give everyone a place that feels comfortable. Long a staple of life in New Orleans, Black-owned bars like First & Last Stop have begun to disappear over the past two decades,

leaving people concerned about the impact their absence will have on the communities that have grown to depend on them. Writer, photographer and bar patron L. Kasimu Harris says the disappearance of jobs in the city has led to the demise of many local Black-owned bars. Because of automation, people who worked on the river and postal workers lost their jobs and no longer came to the area, he says. Then, 7,000 teachers and support staff were fired or laid off after Hurricane Katrina, impacting the bars they used to frequent. “Most people just retire or sell the business because these businesses are in prime real estate. The neighborhoods they are in are rapidly gentrifying,” Harris says.

FOR GENERATIONS, Black-owned bars in the city have been places for cultural phenomena, where Black New Orleanians meet to share experiences, music and memories. Bar patrons say they view Black bar owners as an extended part of their family. Black-owned

bars provide the Black community with a space rooted in celebrating Black culture, history and perseverance. Bar patron Larry Draper says he comes back from Texas to visit First and Last Stop bar. “I come back every couple of months to check in on my city. This is always one of the spots I touch base with when I come home,” Draper says. Bar patron TQ says she found First & Last Stop while looking for a place to go to with longer hours. “Ms. Carol is wonderful and always makes me feel at home. I don’t live in the area but I make an effort to come here. It just feels like one big happy family when we celebrate birthdays or Saints games,” she said. When these spaces disappear, this not only deprives the Black community of a space to call home, but it also changes the cultural fabric of the city and puts Black history at risk of being forgotten. Black-owned bars are often family businesses, like Sportsman’s Corner in Central City, which for three generations has been run by the Elloie family —

most recently Steven Elloie. A second-generation family member, Caesar Elloie, says his father Louis Elloie Sr. was inspired to open the bar in the late ’60s to provide a space for the people in the community to gather and swap stories. “Our location is unique. You have a mix of cultures where both Blacks and whites want to experience the Mardi Gras Indians and events that happen here,” Caesar Elloie says.

There’s a lot of genius that comes out of things that seem regular and ordinary, particularly within the Black community. These Black-owned bars are an example of that. —L. K A S IMU HA RRIS


Caesar Elloie says Sportsman’s began with customers who lived in the immediate community, including bus drivers, longshoremen and school teachers who liked to hang out there after work. More recently, COVID-19 has taken a toll on many Blackowned bars around the city both financially — and personally. The pandemic hit the city’s Black community particularly hard, and that’s been especially true for the Elloie family. Caesar Elloie says his sister Theresa Elloie died from COVID-19 after running the bar following their father’s death during Katrina. “It was really strange,” Elloie says. “It reminds me of Katrina when no one in the neighborhood except the old timers. I would come over here during the daytime just to look, and they would come running over here. It was like they missed this place. It’s kinda like a home to a lot of people in this community.”

OWNER JOSHUA ROUNDS SAYS he opened The Blue Flamingo Sports Bar with his mother, Glenda Rounds, back in September 2019 to help combat the lack of access to quality fresh food in New Orleans East. “We saw the opportunity to be one of the newer businesses in the area that emerged to bring a different feel to the East,” he says. With the pandemic hitting just six months later, it’s been a difficult journey. “It’s just been us bootstrapping it through these tough times and making sure that we stay open,” Rounds says. “A lot of businesses attempt to open in the East but it’s tough financially being able to consistently support a business as well as have the financial means to hire employees.” Rounds says The Blue Flamingo partnered with World Central Kitchen to provide about 10,000 meals during the pandemic. He says the partnership allowed them to keep their employees. Rollin “Bullet” Garcia Sr., owner of Bullet’s Sports Bar, one of the city’s oldest Black bars, says now bars are trying to regain their footing following the Covid surges and Hurricane Ida. “Now is the gauging time. Right now, we’re trying to get back on track,” Garcia says. “We attract people from all over Louisiana and we feel the impact

of what Ida has done to all of those parishes.” Rounds says he hopes bars across New Orleans, including the East, will benefit from a tourism boost if the pandemic allows for Carnival 2022. “Us being in the East, we are not a typical tourist draw. But they do have a few hotels and we get traffic from those hotels,” Rounds says. “So we are looking forward to things getting back to normal.”

BLACK BAR OWNERS UNDERSTAND the role their businesses have traditionally played in the community, which has motivated many of them to hang on even during the pandemic and hurricanes. Garcia, for instance, says he is passionate about the 7th Ward neighborhood where Bullets is located and where he and his family live. “I’m a community player. I live in the neighborhood that my business is in, and my two sons live like a block away,” Garcia says. “When I walk around this neighborhood, I see the needs of old people. I’m not rich but I always say, ‘Do you need anything?’” Black-owned bars are also where many of New Orleans’ most legendary musicians got their start.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

Economy Hall, shown in 1939, was a hub of social activity and mutual aid for the Creole community.

PHOTO BY DOMONIQUE TOLLIVER

Ms. Carol and her daughter Jeannette.

Harris grew up listening to music in Black-owned bars. His sister was a vocalist and his family would often go to The Winter Circle bar growing up, which is now called Seal’s Class Act bar. He says he attended his first Black-owned bar when he was 16 when he went alone to Little People’s Place in Treme to see Wynton Marsalis play live. “In New Orleans as a young musician, you could go into a bar or jazz club because you could play, and it was a very important experience.” Harris says. “Kermit Ruffins grew up in bars as well because his mother was a barmaid.” According to Garcia, Fats Domino and Ray Charles played in the building where Bullet’s sits in now. He says Ray Charles’ daughter, Robyn LaJoya Moffett, came to play in the bar to continue her father’s legacy. “Music was really a deep part of the cultural fabric of the city. For me as a young person, it allowed me to explore the city in a safe environment and get a chance to play with some of your musical heroes,” Harris says. Harris says Black-owned neighborhood bars are not only epicenters of music, but they’ve also historically held a civic purpose as well. He remembers the bars being a place where people would go if they had an issue with

the police or wanted to organize for a cause. “It was a place where movers and shakers went,” Harris says. For those reasons, these bars brought neighborhoods together. Harris said he is on a mission to photograph the culture and traditions of these Black owned bars before they disappear. “I just look at this as an ethnography project to uncover and preserve all the stories that have come out of these bars. Even though I am three years into this project, sometimes I feel like I am just beginning,” Harris says. Harris says he hopes to capture the community aspect that lies in many of the Black owned bars across the city. “I gotta carry the torch for my city — especially my community,” Garcia says. “We put our best foot forward for New Orleans to look great in the eyes of whoever comes in here.”

CESAR ELLOIE SAYS their unique location allows them to have access to the culture of Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs and Mardi Gras Indians. “This is like the home of The Wild Magnolia Indians. Second and Dryades is like a headquarters for culture in the Uptown

15 G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 0 2 1

The B a R Issue


OP EN

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Kermit Ruffins performs at Bullet’s Sports Bar. area. Everything starts and ends here as it relates to parades, second lines, and social gatherings,” Elloie says. Harris says the connection between Black-owned bars and the community goes even deeper than the culture of Mardi Gras. “Sportsman’s Corner bar has obituaries on their front door from 2012 of people who had frequented that place and became a part of their extended family,” Harris says.

Rounds says he and his mother wanted to create a center of gravity for the East and a place where people can feel safe and meet their neighbors. He says Covid brought The Blue Flamingo to its knees but that the people in their community consistently supported them. “New Orleans East has the population to support businesses. We need more business owners who live out in the East to make that investment. If we want to see different

things, it’s up to the people in the neighborhood to develop the neighborhood and support the businesses in the community,” Rounds says. Harris says it’s important for any community, especially the Black community, to have a place they can go. He says historically, Black people were intentionally separated and didn’t always have a place to go back to. “In a time when your freedoms are restricted like Jim Crow and segregation, you needed that place to go where you are welcomed and you know you will be treated with dignity,” Harris says. Harris says these spaces should be celebrated because they hold the history of the city. These bars, like Economy Hall, date back to the 1800s as a place of refuge. Harris says they had late night jazz dances and birthed the jazz funeral. “These places are important for the community as well as Black culture that is truly New Orleans culture,” Harris says. “When we lose these clubs and bars, where does our culture go?”

Harris says it felt almost violent watching the culture and the city rapidly change. That’s why he’s trying to document the spaces that are left. These bars are a hub for the community, which is what led Harris on a mission to document their disappearance. Harris says prior to his work there was little to no documentation on bars that contributed to the fabric of what makes New Orleans what it is. Harris was inspired to start the project after seeing the accelerated change of bars in the 7th Ward. In his project, Harris said six bars on St. Bernard Avenue had been in a predominantly Black neighborhood for generations. Now, half of the bars in that area are white-owned. Harris believes the city can’t afford to wait for the distant future to embark on this documentation as New Orleans is changing too fast. “There’s a lot of genius that comes out of things that seem regular and ordinary, particularly within the Black community,” he says. “These Black-owned bars are an example of that.”

17 G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 0 2 1

The B a R Issue


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The B a R Issue

New Orleans Will Make Pandemic Bar Parklets

n e t n a m r e P

BY KAYLEE POCHE CITY OFFICIALS ARE CLOSE TO FINALIZING a new ordinance making pandemic-era “parklets” outside bars a permanent fixture in New Orleans and say they hope to have the new permitting and design rules before the city council for final approval by January. That’s good news for bar owners like Bailey Smith, who says adding parklets to both R Bar and Bud Rips has given his businesses a lot more than a few extra seats. These days, the expanded seating in the streets — allowed under the mayor’s COVID-19 emergency order since October 2020 — has been a game changer for his bars because it’s broadened why people come to them in the first place. Now, people sit outside and have meetings. They’ll come during the day and work on their laptops — sometimes with a cup of coffee, other times with a glass of wine. Sometimes, they’ll even sit outside Bud Rips and order Pizza Delicious to their table. “They’re dining al fresco at your place but buying drinks,” Smith says. “No one would have done that before, not inside. It’s a very different thing.” Smith expected parklets would be key in successfully reopening his bars, so before he reopened them in April for the first time since the pandemic started, he made sure the parklets at both

PHOTO BY CHRIS GRANGER / THE TIMES-PICAYUNE

A server and customers talk at Juan’s Flying Burrito in downtown New Orleans.

locations were ready for use on Day 1. “I could have opened slightly earlier but I was waiting for my parklets to be put together and gathering the materials I wanted,” Smith says. “It was crucial in my mind and proved to be too once we opened up.” Between the sidewalk cafes and parklets, Smith says R Bar and Bud Rips have an extra 29 seats apiece. Over at Howlin’ Wolf, owner Howie Kaplan says he was able to add around 20 seats to his bar through the pilot parklet program. The additional seats have helped bring in extra money amid a particularly struggling economy thanks to multiple waves of the pandemic and — most recently — Hurricane Ida. “Especially during the pandemic, to have the additional outdoor seating was huge because it increased our ability to do what we need to do in a safe environment,” Kaplan says. “I think people really gravitated to that, and I don’t see a scenario where they go back.”

Jeff Schwartz, the city’s director of economic development, says around 40 bars and restaurants have participated in the parklet pilot program so far. Since the program began last fall, the city has waived the associated fees while staff work on developing a permanent version. Last month, they extended the fee waivers through Dec. 31, and Schwartz anticipates the city extending them again. According to Schwartz, the Cantrell administration is “in the process” of finalizing both an ordinance — that will go to the city council for approval — and a set of guidelines for city departments to manage the program. He says the administration is aiming to get the ordinance to the council in enough time for members to approve it by the end of January, but acknowledges there could be delays while City Hall and the council focus on next year’s budget. “Both [the ordinance and the guidelines] are being finalized as we speak,” Schwartz says. “And I expect that we will have

that program ready to roll out and approved in the really early part of 2022 … We really are trying to get it done as quickly as possible.” There are still a lot of details to iron out, like fee prices, public safety measures and compliance with the Americans with Disabilities Act both inside and surrounding the parklets. City officials have been looking to parklet programs in New York, Philadelphia and Madison, Wisconsin, for guidance in designing New Orleans’ program. Schwartz says the city hasn’t decided yet how much they’ll propose charging for the new parklet permits but it will include both an application fee and annual fee. Though ultimately, the council will have the final say in setting those fees. The fees will help cover the costs of city inspections and lost revenue from the parking spaces the parklets are occupying, though it’s unclear if the fees will make up all of that lost revenue. Schwartz says the fees will be “fairly low” and follow a struc-


CAPRI BLU BISTRO BAR INSIDE

ture similar to the city’s sidewalk cafe program. “The city’s overall goal is to really ensure that there’s equitable access to parklet spaces, that the fee is not going to be a prohibitive amount and that all businesses who want to participate are able to do so,” he says. Another huge factor in developing a permanent parklet program is public safety, especially after a car drove into a parklet at Bud Rips last month. No one was reported injured, but the event underscored the importance of including safety measures in the permanent program. During the pilot, the city has only allowed parklets on streets with speed limits of 30 miles per hour and below. Schwartz says the permanent program will include traffic barriers to separate parklets from the rest of the street and allow businesses to add concrete planter boxes and wood-reinforced structures to their parklets. “Certainly, that’s at the forefront of our minds,” Schwartz says. “As we think about designing parklets and ensure that we’re enforcing the regulations that we’re going to be implementing, we want to make sure that we don’t have any incidents between folks using parklet spaces and automobiles.”

Smith says speed bumps could be another tool to get drivers to slow down when passing parklets. Though the details aren’t set in stone, the Covid-era innovation could impact New Orleans’ bar and restaurant scene for years to come. And local business owners say they’re glad the city is on board with turning the program permanent. “It’s not just about ‘Hey, New Orleans is awesome. Let’s come here,’” Kaplan says. “It’s about ‘New Orleans is awesome. We need to bring people in and we need to figure out ways to continue to support the businesses that help monetize that.’” The way Schwartz sees it, parklets are a natural fit for the city. “I think New Orleans lives in the streets better than pretty much anywhere else on the planet,” Schwartz says. “We demonstrate that in ways large and small, and I think that these parklets are just generally a part of that street culture in the city. And it’s kind of shocking that we haven’t had this in the past.” Smith agrees, adding, “It’s just the city — with its European roots and then the scale of the city — isn’t really built to an automobile. People want to be outside and be able to enjoy it. So I’m just appreciative that it’s finally happening.”

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Customers sit in the parking lot outside of R Bar, which reopened this spring after being closed since the beginning of the pandemic.

at entrance to Ormond Estates • Destrahan www.nolagiftsanddecoronline.com @nolagiftsanddecor

19 G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

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20 G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

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s k r e PARTY P

Hawaiian Holiday BY TRACY DEROCHE OF THE PHOENIX

For a quick, simple, two-ingredient cocktail, mix 1/3 Happy Raptor 504 hibiscus spiced rum with 2/3 pomegranate Red Bull, their winter seasonal flavor. Serve with ice.

COCKTAIL RECIPES FOR FALL AND HOLIDAY GATHERINGS

WE’RE ONE THE EDGE OF A BUSY SEASON: Thanksgiving is in two weeks, then December will be packed with holiday events, New Year’s Eve slides in, and before you know it, it’ll be Carnival. Chances are you’ll probably have some friends and family over — fully vaxxed up and with pandemic safety in mind — at some point in the next two months, which means you need to start dusting off those hostess-with-the-mostest skills. To help you impress, we asked some of our favorite bars for cocktail recipes perfect for entertaining at home this fall. Some, like The Phoenix’s Hawaiian Holiday, couldn’t be simpler. Others, like Beachbum Berry’s Deep Six, though, might take a little planning. Plus, Pal’s Lounge threw in a mocktail for your sober friends. Cheers to the fall!

The Deep Six

BY JEFF “BEACHBUM” BERRY OF BEACHBUM BERRY’S LATITUDE 29

This tiki cocktail recipe already serves two but is good for holiday parties because it easily can be multiplied to fill a punch bowl, so guests can help themselves. The allspice element also gives the drink a holiday vibe. At Latitude 29, it’s served in a custom 40-ounce “deep six” vessel for two to share. All ingredients are locally available, through Keife & Co., Brady’s Wine Warehouse, or Elio’s Wine Warehouse. 4 ounces dark Jamaican rum (Coruba or Myers) 1 ounces Hamilton 151-proof Demerara rum 2 ounces fresh lime juice 2 ounces pineapple juice 2 1/2 ounces falernum (Latitude 29 Formula or Fee Brothers) 1 1/4 ounces St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram

Bare Necessities

BY CAMILLE WHITWORTH OF VICTORY

A fabulous fall cocktail with a name inspired by the song from “The Jungle Book.” 1.5 ounces bourbon spirit .5 ounce lemon juice .5 ounce simple syrup Ginger beer Fresh blackberries Fresh basil

Shake with ice cubes. Pour into Deep Six bowl. Add more ice to fill. Serve with long straws. Garnish with mint.

Mix bourbon, lemon juice and simple syrup and pour over ice. Top with ginger beer and garnish with blackberries, fresh basil and optional lemon slice.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY VICTORY

Signature Hot Toddy BY LAURA WALCH OF PAL’S LOUNGE

When the weather dips this fall, throw together Pal’s signature Hot Toddy to warm up those fingers and toes. 1.5 ounces of whiskey 0.75 ounces of Barenjager honey liqueur 6-8 ounces of hot water Squeeze of honey Splash of lemon juice Dash of ground cinnamon Dash of cayenne

PHOTO BY SARAH RAVITS

In a sturdy mug, mix the whiskey, Barenjager and hot water. Add a squeeze of honey, small amounts of lemon juice and cinnamon and a pinch of cayenne for a kick. Garnish with a cinnamon stick and lemon wedge to get fancy.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY RANDY SCHMIDT

Refreshing Mocktail BY LAURA WALCH OF PAL’S LOUNGE

The bartenders at Pal’s recommend this simple mocktail for party guests abstaining from the hard stuff: Muddle four leaves of basil and lime juice, add eight to ten ounces of cucumber soda and mix with ice.

21 G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 0 2 1

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G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

22

The B a R Issue

Two Forward,

c k a B e n O

Bar workers look to the future while dealing with exhaustion and new pandemic challenges

BY JAKE CLAPP ON HALLOWEEN WEEKEND, Bar Tonique across from Louis Armstrong Park saw its four busiest days since 2019, maybe even since 2018, says Mark Schettler, the small cocktail bar’s general manager. Buoyed by Krewe of Boo’s signal the weekend before that parades could be returning to New Orleans, people packed the bar and surrounding French Quarter spaces from Friday through Monday. “The city, government and us as a populace, as an industry — everybody was watching Krewe of Boo really closely. And it went off well,” says Schettler, who also advocates for service industry workers. “That’ll play a massive role in our steady return to something that feels like normalcy.” The New Orleans Health Department was out along the Krewe of Boo parade route on Oct. 23, taking anonymous health surveys about vaccinations and mask wearing in order to collect data to be used in decisions about Carnival. About 1,300 people participated in the survey. It’s too early to know what the surveys will show. The health department released some initial results, including a high vaccination rate among attendees, but it’ll take time to see if a spike in Covid cases comes from the parade and Halloween. Still, it’s hard not to feel some “justified” optimism, Schettler says — although, he adds, it’s tenuous. The pandemic is far from over. It’s been a long 19 months for New Orleanians working in our bars: Lockdowns and unemployment, then a slow-reopening and permanent closures, mask

PHOTO BY IAN MCNULTY / THE TIMES-PICAYUNE

Mark Schettler mixes cocktails at Bar Tonique, a watering hole on North Rampart Street. Schettler is an advocate for the city’s hospitality workers.

mandates, angry customers, a vaccine order and the Delta variant, a wave that hit right as the city was preparing for a busy October and forced major event cancellations. Hurricane Ida added a rotten gator to the blazing dumpster fire. Malaise hangs over the city. Bills and evictions still threaten to displace people. And staff shortages have added another wrinkle as some workers decide to leave the service industry or even New Orleans. “It’s kind of a day-by-day thing,” says Ashley Carswell, who bartends at Cosimo’s and Bar Tonique while also attending UNO. Carswell and Schettler both spoke with Gambit around this time last year. “A lot has happened. A lot of people I know, personally myself, have gone through a lot of stuff,” Carswell says. She lost her brother in May from complications with Covid, and she has friends who have also lost loved ones. “It’s just day-by-day trying to process it and being OK with not being OK,” she adds. “Tired” is a word she hears a lot when talking with people. But it hasn’t been “all doom and gloom and whatnot,” Carswell says. “It’s nice to be in the

PROVIDED PHOTO

Cosimo’s Bar and Bar Tonique bartender Amanda Carswell PROVIDED PHOTO BY JOSH BRASTED

Mark Schettler

bars. The bars are getting busier again. You start noticing that you’ve got more people coming from out of town and they want to know where to go, what to do, how they can support.” The vaccine mandate, she says, has made it feel more comfortable as the person behind the bar. When the mandate started in August, there were a few slow weeks, both Carswell and Schettler say, as people adjusted to the new rules, but for the most part, their experiences have been that people either play by the rules or don’t try. That isn’t always the case — a scroll through social media on any

given day shows people losing their goddamn minds — but it’s largely worked at Bar Tonique and Cosimo’s. Carswell spent about a month in Florida with her mother when Ida hit. Cosimo’s itself was busy after the hurricane, offering a place for people to cool off and charge their phones while most of the city was still without power. In the past year, both Carswell and Schettler have seen people leave the service industry, for a variety of reasons: A new opportunity, a new city, better hours, not having to deal with customers, and yes, better pay.


23

PHOTO BY WILL COVIELLO

Costumers on Frenchmen Street on Halloween weekend 2021

“Because of how slow it was, that plan [to move or switch jobs] formed and they pulled the trigger on it,” Carswell says. “Now it’s starting to pick up and it will get better for people still here, but you have staff shortages.” “I’ve seen a lot more people almost throwing up their hands and just saying, ‘fuck this.’ And I 100% get it. I know where that comes from,” Schettler says. “It also speaks to how truly amazing the people who work in this industry are that everybody has not just quit en masse because of how poorly we’ve been treated by the public the last year and a half and how invisible we’ve been to policymakers and the extent the money isn’t there.” “There are so many people who are so passionate about the work, taking care of people, it’s amazing. But yeah, the exhaustion is undeniable,” he adds. The hospitality industry has changed a lot in the last 19 months because people have left the industry, says Michelle Dunnick, who leads the United Way of Southeast Louisiana’s Hospitality Cares program. “I think we’re also seeing a lot of mental health [issues],” Dunnick says, “not only from Covid but also from Ida. We’re going to have to continue to work on that in the coming months.”

UWSELA launched the Hospitality Cares program in 2017 and with the Louisiana Hospitality Foundation enacted a Pandemic Response Fund in the early days of the pandemic. The fund distributed $2.4 million to more than 4,800 people. The program also connects hospitality workers to free or low-cost counseling services through Loyola University New Orleans’ Counseling Center, legal services through Southeast Louisiana Legal Services, as well as financial planning and unemployment resources. “The program has evolved, because when it began in 2017, it was just a crisis grant program,” Dunnick says. “Through the pandemic we hosted these ‘Know Your Rights’ webinars, and through those we saw a need for other resources for our hospitality community.” As everyone has seen in the last 19 months, things can change in an instant during a pandemic. But if Covid cases remain low and vaccinations continue, there’s “justifiable” optimism, as Schettler says. Still, the fatigue will linger for a long time to come. “These past two years have sucked horribly. But we’re still here,” Carswell says. “But it doesn’t mean that everything’s OK.”

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EAT, DRINK AND BE AWESOME IN THE WAREHOUSE DISTRICT! WE’RE LOCAL ... and so is our fresh and delicious food

ABITA CRAFTED COCKTAILS Mimosa SUNRISE • ESCAPE From sunrise to sunset, this citrus flavored readyto-enjoy sipper is the perfect side to any breakfast, lunch or dinner.

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Fall DRINK GUIDE

1 HENNESSY MARGARITA Treme Hideaway It’s been a long week. Are you ready to unwind? Join us on Fridays from 6pm-9pm for our Hookah & Hennessy Margarita happy hour. Sounds like the perfect combination, right? 1234 N Claiborne Ave. • NOLA 504-301-4441 • TheTremeHideaway.com 2 BLUE CRAB COLLINS The Blue Crab Restaurant & Oyster Bar A delightfully light and refreshing cocktail made with Tito’s vodka, fresh blueberries and lemon. 7900 Lakeshore Dr. • NOLA 504-284-2898 • thebluecrabnola.com 3 STRAWBERRY FROSÉ Lots-A-Luck Lounge Any day is a good day for a Strawberry Frose. Chill at New Orleans #2 Dive Bar! Drink specials, games, outdoor patio, football watch parties, rent the bar for the holidays! 203 Homedale St.• NOLA • 504-483-0978 facebook.com/lotsalucknola

1

HENNESSY MARGARITA Treme Hideaway

2

BLUE CRAB COLLINS The Blue Crab Restaurant & Oyster Bar

3

STRAWBERRY FROSÉ Lots-A-Luck Lounge

4

THANKSGIVING TEA Western Son Vodka

5

BLUEBERRY LEMON DROP Katie’s

6

CAPRI BLU MARTINI Capri Blu Bar

4 THANKSGIVING TEA • Western Son Vodka Western Son Vodka is column distilled in small batches. It’s extremely smooth & gluten-free. Try this Turkey Day cocktail that will get you in the spirit and make your Thanksgiving meal even more delicious. Two parts Western Son Original Vodka, 4 parts Earl Grey Tea, Orange and a dash of sugar. Get more recipes: westernsondistillery.com 5 BLUEBERRY LEMON DROP • Katie’s It’s been a rough year. Come join us at Katie’s. We’ll do the cooking while you relax and enjoy a great cocktail! 3701 Iberville St. • NOLA 504-488-6582 • katiesinmidcity.com 6 CAPRI BLU MARTINI • Capri Blu Bar Upscale Piano Bar offers a large selection of Wines by the Glass, including Champagnes, Sparkling, White, Blush, Red & Port Wines. Happy Hour Mon-Friday 11am-7pm, Small Plates, Live Music Thu-Sat. 3100 19th St. • Metairie • 504-834-8583 andreasrestaurant.com


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HAPPY HOUR 4 to 6 PM

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8 BARE NECESSITIES • Victory The spirit of Victory is in its team’s pledge to preserve the elegance of a past era when cocktails were fashioned with pride and artistry. Cocktails here never disappoint. Come by for a Bare Necessities –made with bourbon, lemon juice, house made simple syrup, fresh blackberries, fresh basil and topped with ginger beer. 339 Baronne St. • NOLA • 504-522-8664 victorynola.com

7

THE BABY GRAND The Jazz Playhouse

8

BARE NECESSITIES Victory

9

RED HOT MAMA Kingfish Cider

9 RED HOT MAMA • Kingfish Cider Cider doesn’t have to be hot to warm you up. This fiery drink, reminiscent of a red hot candy, is made from Cinnamon Infused Bourbon, Grenadine, Blanche Cider, a splash of Cran-apple and dash of Orange Bitters. 355 Iris Ave Suite A, Jefferson kingfishcider.com 10 HAND GRENADE • Tropical Isle Enjoy the sweet melon taste of New Orleans most powerful drink - the Hand Grenade. Available at four Tropical Isle locations on Bourbon St. and Bourbon Street Honky Tonk, or order Hand Grenade Mix for gift giving or making at home. 800-ISLE-MIX • tropicalisle.com 11 MELLOW MAYAN • The Mill Nola Tiki meets Kentucky and flies straight to Central America. Mellow Corn Whiskey, mezcal, Nixta Licor de Elote, fresh corninfused syrup, triple sec, lime, pineapple, cinnamon and bitters. Happy Hour ThursSat, 4-6p. 1051 Annunciation St. • NOLA 504-582-9544 • Themillnola.com

10

HAND GRENADE Tropical Isle

11

MELLOW MAYAN The Mill Nola

12

EL BUHO Juan’s Flying Burrito

Fall DRINK GUIDE

13

THE JUBILEE PUNCH Hendrick’s Gin

14

WINE WEDNESDAYS Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza

12 EL BUHO • Juan’s Flying Burrito Join us at Juan’s Flying Burrito for some Fly Dranks – Margaritas and specialty cocktails like the EL BUHO - El Buho Mezcal, Triple Sec, Lemon Sour, and Lime. Lower GD, Uptown • Mid-City, CBD Juansflyingburrito.com 13 THE JUBILEE PUNCH • Hendrick’s Gin The Jubilee Punch is the perfect winter drink. If you don’t already know this gin punch recipe you’re in for a pleasant surprise. Combine HENDRICK’S GIN, Maraschino Liqueur, Lemon Juice, Elderflower Cordial, Apple Cider, Slices of fruit (apples, lemons, cucumbers) to Garnish. hendricksgin.com 14 WINE WEDNESDAYS Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza You just can’t ask for a better deal than half-priced Wine! That’s what you get at Theo’s! Half-priced bottles of wine with a food purchase every Wednesday. Pizzas, sandwiches, salads & more in 5 Metro locations: Magazine St., Mid-City, Elmwood, Metairie, and Covington theo’spizza.com

FA L L D R I N K G U I D E

7 THE BABY GRAND • The Jazz Playhouse in the Royal Sonesta Enjoy live music with this festive delight of Rittenhouse Rye Whiskey, Herring Cherry Liqueur, cinnamon syrup, hot coffee, and topped with whipped cream & cinnamon. 300 Bourbon Street. • NOLA • 504-553-2299 • sonesta.com


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Fall DRINK GUIDE

15

GUIDE

WETLAND SAKE Wetland Sake

16 THE TREACLE • The Sazerac House The Treacle is a delightful Myers’s rum old-fashioned that is bolstered by fresh pressed apple juice. This Sazerac House adaptation uses the spiciness of the Bittermens Transatlantic Modern Aromatic Bitters to accent fresh apple juice in a comforting concoction that evokes autumn, cozy fireplaces, and a slice of pie. 101 Magazine Street • NOLA 504-910-0107 • sazerachouse.com 17 WINE • Orleans Grapevine Delicious French cuisine and wine by the glass, bottle or flight. Courtyard and sidewalk seating. Thurs – Sun 4-10 pm. 720 Orleans Ave. • NOLA • 504-523-1930 orleansgrapevine.com 18 BERGAMOT & TONIC • The Country Club The Country Club is a beautiful New Orleans restaurant and bar delivering exquisite food and drink in sophisticated surroundings. Extensive wine list, seasonal cocktails and bartender selections. Bergamot & tonic - Tanqueray Sevilla infused with Earl Grey, Bitter Truth tonic bitters, lemon, and East Imperial tonic water. 634 Louisa Street • NOLA • 504-945-0742 thecountryclubneworleans.com

16

THE TREACLE The Sazerac House

17

WINE Orleans Grapevine

18

BERGAMOT & TONIC The Country Club

19 WANDERING BARMAN Martin Wine & Spirits One of Martin’s newest pre-made cocktail collections. Handcrafted in New York and priced at $4.99 per bottle! One of our favorites is the golden labeled FOMO with its organic vodka pineapple, touch of turmeric, and little bit of heat from Hatch Green Chile. Martin Wine & Spirits • Metairie & Uptown Martinwine.com 20 PETITE BÉTISE • Bar Marilou A beautiful French-style bar serving up small plates and creative cocktails like the Petite Bétise, made with Byrrh, Salers, lavender, and bubbles. Bubbly, refreshing and floral. 544 Carondelet St. • NOLA 504- 814-7711 • Barmarilou.com

19

WANDERING BARMAN Martin Wine & Spirits

20

PETITE BÉTISE Bar Marilou

21

SKATER AID Gnarly Barley Brewing

21 SKATER AID • Gnarly Barley Brewing The pinnacle of refreshing lagers: Skater Aid is an Italian-style Pilsner that features a light malt base with a nuanced hop character...extremely clean and bright with a dry and crisp finish. Plus, a percentage of sales supports local skateboarding initiatives! 1709 Corbin Rd. • Hammond, LA 985-318-0723 • Gnarlybeer.com

FA L L D R I N K G U I D E

Fall DRINK

15 WETLAND SAKE • Wetland Sake New Orleans’ first sake brewery sources their rice locally and donates a portion of profits to wetlands conservation. Available now in stores citywide with taproom coming soon. 634 Orange Street • NOLA www.wetlandssake.com


G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

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23 MIMOSA • Mid-City Pizza $1 Mimosas with purchase of food every Saturday & Sunday at the Mid City location only. 4400 Banks St.• NOLA • 504-483-8609 midcitypizza.com

22

VOODOO GLITTER Martine’s Lounge

23

MIMOSA Mid-City Pizza

24

WILL’S SPICY BLOODY MARY The Phoenix Bar

24 WILL’S SPICY BLOODY MARY The Phoenix Bar Bartender Will has the hair of the dog you need to get Sunday Funday started at the Phoenix. $3 Korbel Mimosas, $5 El Jimador Bloody Maria’s and $5 Absolut Spicy Bloody Mary’s, every Sunday ‘til 5pm. 941 Elysian Fields Ave. • NOLA we don’t answer the phone phoenixbarnola.com 25 BOW WOW • Neyow’s Creole Café Join us at Neyow’s for authentic Creole and Southern-inspired dishes and cocktails. We suggest the customer favorite Bow Wow - 32 oz cup mixed with Fruit Punch and light and dark rum. 3332 Bienville St. • NOLA 504-827-5474 • Neyows.com 26 LA STRADA • Pal’s Lounge Montenegro Italian amaro, rosemaryinfused hibiscus-orange aperitivo, fresh squeezed grapefruit juice. Join us at Mid-city’s best neighborhood bar serving up delicious seasonal drinks, specialty cocktails, beer and wine. 949 N. Rendon • NOLA • 504-488-7257 facebook.com/palslounge

25

BOW WOW Neyow’s Creole Café

26

LA STRADA Pal’s Lounge

27

EXPANDED WINE LIST Venezia

Fall DRINK GUIDE

28

POMEGRANATE GINGER FIZZ Truly

29

BUCOLIC FALL Peacock Room

27 EXPANDED WINE LIST • Venezia You know Venezia’s for classic New Orleans inspired Italian Cuisine. Now you can enjoy all of your favorites with more selections from their expanded wine list. By the glass or the bottle, the wine selection has something to pair with every dish that will be sure to please every palate. 134 N. Carrollton Ave. • NOLA • 504-4887991 venezianeworleans.net 28 POMEGRANATE GIGER FIZ • Truly Fizz is such a fun word. You can practically feel the bubbles on your tongue. Now punch it up with tart pomegranate and hints of ginger, and what do you get? A holiday drink you’ll be begging Santa to slip in your stocking. Find it in the Truly Limited Edition Holiday Party Pack. trulyhardseltzer.com/holiday 29 BUCOLIC FALL • Peacock Room The bar in the Peacock Room is stocked with everything from the classics to hard to find spirits. Delectable small plates and exceptional cocktails made by expert bartenders. Bucolic Fall - Decourtet VS Cognac, Tattersall Pommeau, allspice, citrus, sparkling wine. 504 Tchoupitoulas • NOLA • 504-324-3073 Peacockroomnola.com

FA L L D R I N K G U I D E

22 VOODOO GLITTER • Martine’s Lounge 33 A ginger-spicy fall cocktail of: Ancho Reyes chile liqueur; Ginger elixir; Luxardo cherry juice; topped with sparkling wine! Opens at 3pm daily. Indoor bar & outdoor patio seating. 2347 Metairie Rd. • Metairie • 504-831-8637 facebook.com/martineslounge


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34

E AT + D R I N K

Uncommon place

The Commons Club opens in the Virgin hotel IN VIRGIN-SPEAK, THE RICHARD BRANSON BRAND-DRIVEN LINGO that

pervades his company’s hotels, all rooms are chambers, coffee shops become the Funny Library and the restaurant — whether it’s in Dallas, Las Vegas or New Orleans — is the Commons Club. But there’s nothing common about the Commons Club at the Virgin Hotels New Orleans, which opened in the Warehouse District on Aug. 18. The name refers to a town common or central community gathering place. Thanks to chef Alex Harrell’s deceptively simple menu of elevated seasonal cuisine and a fetching design by New Orleans-based Logan Killen Interiors, the new restaurant is a welcoming space. “We’re seeing a steady increase in guests and people coming out for dining and music,” Harrell says. Harrell oversees all dining and catering options at the 238-room hotel. That includes menus for recently opened rooftop pool and terrace spaces. The chef formerly ran his own restaurant, Angeline, and helmed the kitchens at Sylvian and, most recently, the Elysian Bar at Hotel Peter & Paul. Working with sous chefs Bryan Buckler and Colin Pound, Harrell developed a menu of elevated seasonal Southern and Mediterranean-influenced dishes. There’s nothing cookie cutter about brunch offerings like whipped pimiento cheese on toast with bits of Benton’s cured ham from Tennessee and curls of sweet pickle. Gulf shrimp are served on a mound of stone-ground Alabama Bayou Cora grits with a smoky tomato and fennel broth. Crispy house-made boudin sits atop toothsome red grits in a pool of red eye gravy, with a sunny side up egg ready to burst open on top. At dinner, a confit chicken leg is served with field peas, squash ragout and ricotta gnocchi. Harrell’s wagyu smash burger is topped with smoked Gouda, bacon fat aioli and the chef’s mustard on a potato bun.

FORK + CENTER

|

Email dining@gambitweekly.com

by Beth D’Addono

“The only thing the Virgin folks said to me was, ‘Chef, the Commons Club is yours. Do whatever you want, but can you include a burger, pasta, soup and a salad on the menu?’” he says. “That was easy — I already had written those items on the menu — totally in my wheelhouse.” Harrell and his team are about to launch an expanded fall menu with four additional entrees and some tweaks to a few existing dishes, he says. The restaurant is designed to offer guests a handful of mood-setting environments. There’s the Kitchen, which has a seven-seat chef’s table and open kitchen area and is decorated with vintage prints. There’s the intimate, breezy, whitewashed side porch area, with hanging ferns and floral prints across from the private dining alcove and its jaw-dropping pink Lindsey Adelman chandelier. The sexy Shag Room and bar area is a riot of colors and textures and art that spreads across the walls and up the stairs to the second floor. When a friend who consults with Virgin mentioned the job to him earlier this year, saying it would be a good fit, Harrell figured there was nothing wrong with entertaining the conversation. “At first I wasn’t sure being connected with corporate life was for me, but the more I learned about the company and the autonomy they were giving the position, the better it sounded,” he says. During the pandemic shutdown, Harrell, 47, had plenty of time for introspection. He came to the conclusion that he needed to challenge himself to become healthier and achieve a greater work-life balance to spend time with his two daughters.

One Meaux Time

THE FRENCH QUARTER BUILDING AT NORTH RAMPART AND ST. PHILIP STREETS

that was long home to the restaurant Meauxbar will soon come back to life as a new French bistro. Work is underway on MaMou, led by chef Tom Branighan and sommelier Molly Wismeier. Branighan was most recently chef de cuisine at Longway Tavern, and Wismeier is well known for her tenure as wine and spirits director for Restaurant R’evolution. MaMou is slated to open early in 2022. A substantial reworking of the former Meauxbar space will feature a larger and more modern kitchen and art nouveau influences in the dining room design. Branighan says the new restaurant is inspired by modern continental cuisine and will fold in some Creole touches as well. PHOTO BY CHERYL GERBER

Alex Harrell serves beef cheeks, roasted heirloom carrots and more at Commons Club. “I wanted to push both my personal and professional life to the next level,” he says. “That’s how human growth happens, pushing outside of our comfort zone.” Harrell accepted the job in March and started working in May. He knew he was biting off a lot, running dining in a signature hotel in the strangest of times. “This can be pretty intense, a lot of moving parts,” he says. “But the company is super. They paid the entire staff for two weeks during (Hurricane) Ida. That’s not something you hear too often. I’m working with great people who are here to listen, always trying to solve problems as they come up and make everything the best it can be. It’s an exciting place to come to work every single day.”

? WHAT

Commons Club

WHERE

Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., (833) 791-7700; virginhotels.com/new-orleans

WHEN

Dinner daily, brunch Sat.-Sun.

HOW

Dine-in

CHECK IT OUT

Alex Harrell’s elevated Southern and Mediterranean cooking

P H O T O B Y I A N M C N U LT Y/ T H E T I M E S - P I C AY U N E

“We share this love of these classic meals,” he says. “We hope to create a modern French bistro with contemporary influences, with a concentration on wine and service.” Branighan is a New Orleans native who started his career at Emeril’s in 2006 and then cooked in New York at Cafe Boulud and Bouley, and in Philadelphia at Lacroix at the Rittenhouse. The new restaurant’s name comes from a nickname for the chef’s grandmother, known in the family as MaMou. Branighan lives nearby in the French Quarter, and he’s excited to join the growing number of restaurants and bars pointed towards locals here. One block down, the tavern American Townhouse opened over the summer, while just next door the new restaurant and bar Bijou, with longtime


35

FORK & CENTER

Storm Relocations

TWO MORE SMALL NEW ORLEANS RESTAURANTS are making big

changes, spurred by the losses from Hurricane Ida on top of the ongoing pressures of the pandemic. The Philly-style sandwich shop Liberty Cheesesteaks on Freret Street and the Vietnamese restaurant Em Trai Sandwich Co. in the Marigny are moving operations. Liberty Cheesesteaks got its start on Freret Street in 2013. But last week owner Michael Casey was selling off the last sandwiches to run through his supplies and then shut the doors for good. It’s not the end of Liberty Cheesesteaks though. Casey has a second location in Harahan, which he plans to reopen as soon as he can. “I call it death by 1,000 cuts,” Casey says. “It was just too much, and the business hasn’t come back from Ida.” Liberty Cheesesteaks originally opened a few doors down in the shed-sized building that also launched Dat Dog and now is home to the rotisserie chicken concept Good Bird. It moved into bigger digs on the corner, at 5401 Freret St., and added alcohol to its offerings. It built a following and became a spot for Philadelphia Eagles fans to gather on game days. The Harahan location at 6626 Jefferson Highway was heavily damaged by the hurricane. Repairs are underway, and Casey hopes to reopen there by the end of the year.

Ida also compelled chef Tung Nguyen to close Em Trai Sandwich Co. in the Marigny, where he’d opened two years earlier. He is relocating to Metairie. He plans to open in the weeks ahead at 3802 Veterans Memorial Blvd., in a strip mall spot attached to the Dixie Taverne bar. The lease at his new, smaller location will be much lower, Nguyen says, and after Ida he felt he had no choice but to reinvent the business in a different area. “My business was down 70%,” Nguyen says. “Then the storm just took away the rest. It was the icing on the cake. My customers were artists and musicians and service industry people, but now they don’t have gigs, or they aren’t working as much.” But his catering business increased from customers in Metairie through the pandemic. “I guess I’m going to them now,” he says. Em Trai means little brother in Vietnamese, a reference to Nguyen’s spot in the pecking order of a family of 13 siblings. He is part of a restaurant family, who also run Thanh Thanh and Huey P’s Pizzeria in Gretna. At Em Trai, he serves a modern blend of traditional Vietnamese and American flavors, with banh mi sandwiches, tacos, soups and slow-smoked meats. When it reopens, the menu will be revamped to add more bar food and snacks. Em Trai’s future location was until recently home to NOLA Geauxst Kitchen, the new iteration of the sandwich shop Sammich, configured for delivery and bar service at the Dixie Taverne next door. It closed earlier this year. Cheesesteak lovers dismayed by Liberty’s departure may find some solace in other changes for the ranks of local cheesesteak slingers. Trilly Cheesesteaks is open at 3735 Ulloa St., after closing its Banks Street spot earlier this year and going back to pop-ups. It has a new permanent home not far away in Mid-City, with its menu of traditional and vegan sandwiches. And last spring the long-running pop-up Yinzer’s Amazing Cheesesteaks opened at 1514 Delachaise St., near Touro Infirmary, in the former Vintage Garden Kitchen space. Yinzer’s also delivers to a circuit of Uptown bars. — IAN McNULTY/ THE TIMES-PICAYUNE

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Bayona chef Eason Barksdale at the helm, opened last week. They share a block with Effervescence, the restaurant and Champagne specialist that opened here in 2017. A few blocks up, the bakery B Sweets Cakes and Desserts also joined North Rampart Street earlier this year. Meauxbar originally opened in 2003 as Meauxbar Bistro. The founders named it for the small town of Meaux in Acadiana. Local restaurateur Robert LeBlanc bought it in 2014 and ran it as part of his LeBlanc + Smith hospitality group. It closed last fall amid the pandemic. Longway Tavern was part of the same company. It too closed early this year, though LeBlanc and his partners recently brought the space back as a new bar called The Will & The Way. — IAN McNULTY/ THE TIMES-PICAYUNE


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Hipolito Sanchez

OF THE

WEEK

Pitmaster

by Will Coviello HIPOLITO SANCHEZ HAS WON NUMEROUS BARBECUE COMPETITION AWARDS

in his hometown of Chicago and elsewhere. He turned a hobby into a business in 2014 when he created Slow Motion for Meat, a barbecue operation that does catering, festivals and events. During the pandemic, it’s done a lot of outdoor cooking for the Chicago hunger organization Fight2Feed. He also took a break early this year to recover from heart surgery. Sanchez is in New Orleans this week to participate in a collaborative Tiki BBQ Pop-up at Mister Mao with chef/co-owner Sophina Uong and John Haney of Alveron BBQ Company in Charleston, South Carolina. The dinner is Sunday, Nov. 14, and a portion of proceeds support Sanchez’s recovery.

How did get into barbecue? HIPOLITO SANCHEZ: My family is from southwest Texas. At an early age, I was exposed to hunting and outside cooking. Our family would hunt for deer and wild board. A lot of these practices were things we grew up on — harvesting the hunt and things like that — that type of cooking has always been in my family on my dad’s side. My mom was a professional cook for 35 years with the Marriott organization, so I was exposed to food at an early age, but never lost touch as far as my hunting and outside cooking. We grew up on javelina style cooking — in the ground. We would do barbacoa and cow heads. We would dig a hole in the ground and fill it with rocks. We’d start a fire and burn it the entire day to get that base warm. Then we would use containers or barrels to put the meat in the ground and try to bury it with hot rocks. It’s similar to Mexican style cochinita. It’s similar to what Cajuns do with a Cajun microwave. You cook in the ground long term, overnight. For my professional career, I leaned back into things that brought family and community together.

What do you like to do with Slow Motion for Meat? S: It’s mostly barbecue, and it’s mostly whole hog. There’s always a

PHOTO PROVIDED BY HIPOLITO SANCHEZ

big market for brisket. The thing we get requests for the least is chicken, because everyone thinks it’s a secondary protein. But as soon as we make chicken, they’re like, “Oh man, we didn’t order enough chicken.” We’re smoking it, we’re glazing it, we’re going to put it back on the fire. It celebrates both things. The smoking and the grilling. I’ve had a great opportunity to take barbecue how I know it and work with chefs in Chicago. I have cooked for Cochon 555, Cochon Heritage Fuego and done things that are more elevated. I did stuff for (Korean-Polish restaurant) Kimski, working with Won Kim, the chef there. I have been working with him since he opened his doors and picking up different styles, such as Korean cooking — I like things a little more spicy. I have friends in South Carolina that run tiki bars, and their menus are similar with Asian cuisine, and VietnameseFrench cooking. I put a little spin on it as far as elevated barbecue. Friends did a pop-up last night. They wanted something smoked for their soups. I said smoked broth is great. I wish more people (would do) their barbecue from a whole animal perspective. If you want to be a backyard barbecue cook and cook a chicken, use all of it. There’s so much good stuff there. Boil down the rest of that chicken carcass and make a stock. Cook down those bones, cook down that stock. Shelve it, use it for ramen, but don’t let this go to waste.

I try to be respectful any time I get to use a protein that’s been raised humanely on a farm or so forth to have minimum waste. Even when I make a smoked poblano tomatillo salsa, people say, “Do you deseed it?” I say, I don’t waste anything. I’ll be lucky if there’s something stuck to the stem of the pepper when I am done. That was the way I was taught to cook by my mom and grandmother. They didn’t waste anything. Everything got used. (Cajun) boucherie traditions are the same.

Black Stallion Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

What are you doing at the Tiki BBQ Pop-up?

S: With the (Korean-style) pork belly we’re going to serve some kimchi, daikon pickle and things like that. With the Polynesian brisket, we’re actually doing it two ways. We’re going to be doing a portion of a brisket burnt end. That’ll be glazed with coconut and I have worked with a chef who grew some Carolina reapers (chilies), so we’re creating a mash jelly. It has some strong heat, but not excessive heat that’ll be mixed into that glaze. It’ll be presented with sweet pickled mustard seed and grilled pineapple. To celebrate the entire brisket, we’re creating a “spring roll,” but there is no roll. It’s actually a slice of brisket we’re going to roll with jicama, jalapeno and coconut. For information on the Tiki BBQ Pop-up, visit mistermaonola.com.

This rich, fruit-forward wine calls for succulent, flavorful dishes such as grilled tenderloin with roasted shallots, creamy blue cheeses, pepper-rubbed pork chops or duck breast with grilled plums. DISTRIBUTED BY

37 G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

WINE

3 COURSE INTERVIEW


G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

38

O U T T O E AT C O M P L E T E L I S T I N G S A T W W W. B E S T O F N E W O R L E A N S . C O M

VICTORY

Premier Craft Cocktails & Restaurant 339 Baronne St. New Orleans

Out 2 Eat is an index of Gambit contract advertisers. Unless noted, addresses are for New Orleans and all accept credit cards. Updates: Email willc@gambitweekly.com or call (504) 483-3106.

Due to COVID-19, dining at restaurants is impacted. Information is subject to change. Contact the restaurant to confirm service options.

CBD

Juan’s Flying Burrito — 515 Baronne St., (504) 529-5825; juansflyingburrito.com — See Uptown section for restaurant description. Outdoor dining available. No reservations. Lunch and dinner Thu.-Tue. $$

CARROLLTON

Mid City Pizza — 6307 S. Miro St., (504) 509-6224; midcitypizza.com — See Mid-City section for restaurant description. Delivery available. Lunch Thu.-Sun., dinner Thu.-Mon. $$ Mikimoto — 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., (504) 488-1881; mikimotosushi.com — The South Carrollton roll includes tuna tataki, avocado and snow crab. Delivery available. Lunch Sun.-Fri., dinner daily. $$

New Orleans most eclectic and unique destination for signature cocktails, delectable bites, impeccable libations and good times with good people.

CITYWIDE

(504) 522-8664 | victorynola.com Thursday - Sunday 4:30PM-1AM

Breaux Mart — Citywide; breauxmart. com — The deli counter’s changing specials include dishes such as baked catfish and red beans and rice. Lunch and dinner daily. $

Sundays feature jazz and crawfish

FRENCH QUARTER

Relax on our

TROPICAL COURTYARD OR SIDEWALK SEATING

with a fresh cocktail, wine or dinner!

Desire Oyster Bar — Royal Sonesta New Orleans, 300 Bourbon St., (504) 586-0300; sonesta.com/desireoysterbar — The menu features Gulf seafood in traditional and contemporary Creole dishes, po-boys and more. Char-grilled oysters are topped with Parmesan, herbs and butter. Reservations recommended. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $$

HARAHAN/JEFFERSON/ RIVER RIDGE

The Rivershack Tavern — 3449 River Road, (504) 834-4938; therivershacktavern.com — This bar and music spot offers a menu of burgers, sandwiches and changing lunch specials. Delivery available. Lunch and dinner daily. $ Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 1212 S. Clearview Parkway, Elmwood, (504) 733-3803; theospizza.com — There is a wide variety of specialty pies and toppings to build your own pizza. The menu also includes salads and sandwiches. Delivery available. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat. $

LAKEVIEW

OPEN THURSDAY THROUGH SUNDAY 4PM - 10PM 720 ORLEANS AVE. • 504.523.1930 • WWW.ORLEANSGRAPEVINE.COM

$ — average dinner entrée under $10 $$ — $11-$20 $$$ — $20-up

The Blue Crab Restaurant and Oyster Bar — 7900 Lakeshore Drive, (504) 284-2898; thebluecrabnola.com — The menu includes sandwiches, fried seafood platters, boiled seafood and more. Basin barbecue shrimp and grits features eight jumbo shrimp over creamy cheese grits and a cheese biscuit. Outdoor seating available. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. $$ Lakeview Brew Coffee Cafe — 5606 Canal Blvd., (504) 483-7001; lakeviewbrew.com — This casual cafe offers

coffee, pastries, desserts, sandwiches and salads. Tuna salad or chicken salad avocado melts are topped with Monterey Jack and Parmesan. Delivery are available. Breakfast and lunch daily. $

METAIRIE

Andrea’s Restaurant — 3100 N. 19th St., Metairie, (504) 834-8583; andreasrestaurant.com — Chef Andrea Apuzzo’s speckled trout royale is topped with crabmeat and lemon-cream sauce. Capelli D’Andrea combines house-made angel hair pasta and smoked salmon in cream sauce. Delivery available. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sun. $$$ Chef Ron’s Gumbo Stop — 2309 N. Causeway Blvd., Metairie, (504) 8352022; gumbostop.com — The Seafood Platter includes fried catfish, shrimp, oysters, crab balls fries and a side. Delivery available. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat. $$ Kosher Cajun New York Deli & Grocery — 3519 Severn Ave., Metairie, (504) 888-2010; koshercajun.com — This New York-style deli specializes in sandwiches, including corned beef and pastrami. Lunch Sun.-Thu., dinner Mon.-Thu. $ Martin Wine Cellar — 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, (504) 896-7350; martinwine. com — See Uptown section for restaurant description. No reservations. Lunch daily. $$ Nephew’s Ristorante — 4445 W. Metairie Ave., Metairie, (504) 533-9998; nephewsristorante.com — The CreoleItalian menu features dishes like veal, eggplant or chicken parmigiana, and Mama’s Eggplant with red gravy and Romano cheese. Reservations required. Dinner Tue.-Sat. $$ Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 2125 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, (504) 510-4282; theospizza.com — See Harahan/Jefferson section for restaurant description. $ Short Stop Po-Boys — 119 Transcontinental Drive, Metairie, (504) 8854572; shortstoppoboysno.com — The menu includes more than 30 po-boys and other Louisiana staples. Fried Louisiana oysters and Gulf shrimp are served on a Leidenheimer loaf with lettuce, tomato, onions and pickles. No reservations. Breakfast, lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. $

MID-CITY/TREME

Angelo Brocato’s — 214 N. Carrollton Ave., (504) 486-1465; angelobrocatoicecream.com — This sweet shop serves its own gelato, spumoni, Italian ice, cannolis, fig cookies and other treats. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. $ Juan’s Flying Burrito — 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., (504) 486-9950; juansflyingburrito.com — See Uptown section for restaurant description. Outdoor dining available. No reservations. Lunch and dinner Thu.-Tue. $$ Katie’s Restaurant — 3701 Iberville St., (504) 488-6582; katiesinmidcity.com


39

O U T T O E AT

PHOTO BY CHRIS GR ANGER / T H E T I M E S - P I C AY U N E

Ceviche criollo is one of the Peruvian dishes served at Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco (5015 Magazine St., 504-267-7612; titoscevichepisco.com).

The Blue Crab Restaurant and Oyster Bar — 118 Harbor View Court, Slidell, (985) 315-7001; thebluecrabnola.com — See Lakeview section for restaurant description. No reservations. Lunch Fri.-Sat., dinner Wed.-Sun. $$ Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 70488 Highway 21, Covington, (985) 234-9420; theospizza.com — See Harahan/Jefferson section for restaurant description. $

Red Gravy — 4206 Magazine St., (504) 561-8844; redgravycafe.com — Thin cannoli pancakes are filled with cannoli cream and topped with chocolate. The menu includes brunch items, pasta dishes, sandwiches, baked goods and more. Reservations accepted. Dinner Wed.-Sat., brunch Sun. $$ Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 4218 Magazine St., (504) 894-8554; theospizza.com — See Harahan/ Jefferson section for restaurant description. $ Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco — 5015 Magazine St., (504) 267-7612; titoscevichepisco.com — The Peruvian menu includes lomo saltado, featuring beef tenderloin tips sauteed with onions, tomatoes, cilantro, soy sauce and pisco, and served with fried potatoes and rice. Outdoor seating and delivery available. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. $$$

UPTOWN

WAREHOUSE DISTRICT

NORTHSHORE

Joey K’s — 3001 Magazine St., (504) 891-0997; joeyksrestaurant.com — The menu includes fried seafood platters, salads, sandwiches and red beans and rice. Sauteed trout Tchoupitoulas is topped with shrimp and crabmeat and served with vegetables and potatoes. Delivery available. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. $$ Juan’s Flying Burrito — 2018 Magazine St., (504) 569-0000; 5538 Magazine St., (504) 897-4800; juansflyingburrito.com — The Flying Burrito includes grilled steak, shrimp, chicken, cheddar-jack cheese, black beans, yellow rice, salsa la fonda, guacamole and sour cream. The menu also has tacos, quesadillas, nachos and more. Outdoor seating available. No reservations. Lunch and dinner Thu.-Tue. $$ Martin Wine Cellar — 3827 Baronne St., (504) 894-7444; martinwine.com — The deli section serves sandwiches, salads and more. The Sena salad includes pulled roasted chicken, golden raisins, blue cheese, pecans and field greens tossed with Tobasco pepperjelly vinaigrette. No reservations. Lunch daily. $$

G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

— A Cajun Cuban has roasted pork, grilled ham, cheese and pickles pressed on buttered bread. The Boudreaux pizza is topped with cochon de lait, spinach, red onions, roasted garlic and scallions. Delivery available. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. $$ Mid City Pizza — 4400 Banks St., (504) 483-8609; midcitypizza. com — The pizza joint serves New York-style pies, plus calzones, sandwiches and salads. Shrimp remoulade pizza includes spinach, red onion, garlic, basil and green onions on an garlic-olive oil brushed curst. Delivery available. Lunch Thu.-Sun., dinner Thu.-Mon. $$ Neyow’s Creole Cafe — 3332 Bienville St., (504) 827-5474; neyows.com — The menu includes red beans with fried chicken or pork chops, as well as grilled or fried seafood plates, po-boys, raw or char-grilled oysters, pasta, salads and more. Lunch daily, dinner Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. $$ Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 4024 Canal St., (504) 302-1133; theospizza. com — See Harahan/Jefferson section for restaurant description. $

PIPES CBD VAPES DETOX

Annunciation — 1016 Annunciation St., (504) 568-0245; annunciationrestaurant.com — The menu highlights Gulf seafood in Creole, Cajun and Southern dishes. Fried oysters and skewered bacon are served with meuniere sauce and toasted French bread. Reservations required. Dinner Thu.-Sun. $$$

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WEST BANK Asia — Boomtown Casino & Hotel, 4132 Peters Road, Harvey, (504) 364- 8812; boomtownneworleans. com — Restaurateur Tri La’s menu serves Chinese and Vietnamese dishes. The Lau Hot Pot for two comes with choice of scallops, snow crab or shrimp. Reservations accepted. Dinner Fri.-Sun. $$ Mosca’s — 4137 Highway 90 West, Westwego, (504) 436-8950; moscasrestaurant.com — This family-style eatery serves shrimp Mosca, chicken a la grande and baked oysters Mosca, made with breadcrumbs and Italian seasonings. Dinner Wed.-Sat. Cash only. $$$

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MUSIC F O R C O M P L E T E M U S I C L I S T I N G S A N D M O R E E V E N T S TA K I N G P L AC E I N T H E N E W O R L E A N S A R E A , V I S I T C A L E N D A R . G A M B I T W E E K LY. C O M To learn more about adding your event to the music calendar, please email listingsedit@gambitweekly.com Note: Due to COVID-19, events may have certain restrictions or may be postponed; we recommend checking out a venues social media sites or call before you go for the most up to dateinformation.

TUESDAY 9 BAYOU BAR AT THE PONTCHARTRAIN HOTEL — Peter Harris Quartet, 7 pm CHICKIE WAH WAH — The Russell Welch Orchestra, 7 pm DIXON HALL, TULANE UNIVERSITY — Pacifica Quartet with Anthony McGill, clarinet, 7:30 pm DOS JEFES — Tom Hook, Wendell Brunious, 8:30 pm KITCHEN TABLE CAFÉ — Kitchen Table Cafe Trio, 6:30 pm SIDNEY'S SALOON — Steve Detroy, 9 pm THE HOWLIN' WOLF — Zoomst, 10:30 pm

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BAYOU BAR AT THE PONTCHARTRAIN HOTEL — Peter Harris Trio, 7 pm CHICKIE WAH WAH — Meschiya Lake and Tom McDermott, 7 pm CIVIC THEATRE — Wednesday at the Square One Night Only Concert, 5 pm D.B.A. AT PALACE MARKET — Tin Men, 6 pm; Walter “Wolfman” Washington & the Roadmasters, 9 pm DOS JEFES — Kris Tokarski, 8:30 pm MADAME VIC'S — Jacky Blaire and the Hot Biscuits, 8 pm PALM COURT JAZZ CAFE — Greg Stafford with Palm Court Jazz Band, 7:30 pm SANTOS — Swamp Moves with Russell Welch, 8 pm SOUTHPORT HALL LIVE MUSIC & PARTY HALL — COLD, 7 pm THE SANDBAR — Rex Gregory, 7 pm

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BAMBOULAS — Christopher Johnson Jazz, 2 pm; Marty Peters & the Party Meters, 5:30 pm; Tree House Band, 9 pm BAYOU BAR AT THE PONTCHARTRAIN HOTEL — Peter Harris Quartet, 7 pm BOURREE — Jenn Howard Band, 6 pm BUFFA'S — Tom McDermott and Aurora Nealand, 7 & 9 pm CARNAVAL LOUNGE — Diets Album Release Show with Dusty Ruckus, 8 pm CHICKIE WAH WAH — Washboard Rodeo, 7 pm D.B.A. AT PALACE MARKET — The Quickening, 9 pm DOS JEFES — The Mark Coleman Trio, 8:30 pm KITCHEN TABLE CAFÉ — Dr. Mark St. Cyr Traditional Jazz Band, 6:30 pm LE BON TEMPS ROULE — Soul Rebels, 10 pm MADAME VIC'S — Cristina Kaminis and the Mix, 8 pm PALM COURT JAZZ CAFE — Leroy Jones and Crescent City Joymakers, 7:30 pm PAVILION OF THE TWO SISTERS — Tim Laughlin, 6 pm

REPUBLIC NOLA — Atreyu + Crown The Empire, Tetrarch, Saul, Defying Decay, 6 pm ROCK 'N' BOWL — Chubby Carrier & Bayou Swamp Band, 8 pm SIDNEY'S SALOON — DarkLounge Ministries, 6 pm SNUG HARBOR JAZZ BISTRO — Ryan Hansler Trio album release, 8 & 10 pm ST. ANNA'S EPISCOPAL CHURCH — Electric Yat Quartet, 7 pm THE HOWLIN' WOLF — Fish Head Stew feat. Dave Malone, Camile Baudion, Dave Pomerlau, Mark Rechler, Eric Boulivar plus Circus Mind and Big Sam, 7 pm THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE — Brass-A-Holics, 7:30 pm

FRIDAY 12 BAMBOULAS — The Villains, 2 pm; Les Getrex N Creole Cooking, 6:30 pm; City of Trees, 10 pm BAYOU BAR AT THE PONTCHARTRAIN HOTEL — Peter Harris Trio, 7 pm BOURREE — Sasha Salk, 7 pm; Quinn Pilgrim, 4 pm BUFFA'S — Greg Schatz, 7 & 9 pm CARNAVAL LOUNGE — Gooseteeth, The Noise Complaints, Calamansi, 9 pm CHICKIE WAH WAH — Papa Mali w/Casandra Faulconer and Eric Bolivar, 7 pm D.B.A. AT PALACE MARKET — Lightnin’ Malcolm + Ghalia Volt, 7 pm; Deltaphonic, 10 pm DOS JEFES — Tom Fitzpatrick & Turning Point, 9 pm FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS — Chaka Kahn, Marcus King, Trombone Shorty, Jackie Greene, Son Little, 8 pm JAZZ @ THE BLUE DOG — DUKES of Dixieland, 7 pm MADAME VIC'S — Los Guiros with Corina Hernandez, 6 pm NEUTRAL GROUND COFFEE HOUSE — Laro, 7:30 pm; Mars Cooper, 9 pm NOLA BREWING COMPANY — Bakey's Brew , 5 pm ORPHEUM THEATER — Jelly RollJelly Roll + James Garcia, Still Matthews, Bullet Jones, 8 pm PALM COURT JAZZ CAFE — Kevin Louis & Topsy Chapman with Palm Court Jazz Band, 7:30 pm SNUG HARBOR JAZZ BISTRO — Jason Marsalis’ Tribute to Ellis Marsalis, 8 & 10 pm SOUTHPORT HALL LIVE MUSIC & PARTY HALL — Project Ascension, Transient, Kidtoshi, 7 pm THE HOWLIN' WOLF — Trinity Community Center Benefit featuring The Grammy Nominated Hot 8 Brass Band, 7:30 pm THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE — Burlesque Ballroom feat. Romy Kaye, 7 & 9 pm


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MUSIC

G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

TIPITINA'S — Electric Yat Quartet & The Walrus, 9 pm ZONY MASH BEER PROJECT — Dwayne Dopsie and the Zydeco Hellraisers, 7 pm

SATURDAY 13 ACE HOTEL NEW ORLEANS — Brass-A-Holics, 9 pm BAMBOULAS — G & The Swinging Gypsies, 2 pm; Johnny Mastro Blues, 6:30 pm; Crawdaddy T’s Cajun/ Zydeo Review, 10 pm BAYOU BAR AT THE PONTCHARTRAIN HOTEL — Jordan Anderson, 8 pm BOURREE — Ryan Scott Long & Joshua Smith Duo, 2 pm; Wolfe Johns Blues Band, 6 pm BUFFA'S — Freddie Blue & the Friendship Circle Band, 7 & 9 pm CARNAVAL LOUNGE — Kinky Vanilla, Midriff, Beach Angel, 9 pm CHICKIE WAH WAH — Happy Talk, 9 pm D.B.A. AT PALACE MARKET — Tuba Skinny, 6 pm; Soul Rebels, 10 pm DOS JEFES — Sunpie & The Louisiana Sunspots, 9 pm GEORGE AND JOYCE WEIN JAZZ & HERITAGE CENTER — Shannon Powell, 7 pm JAZZ @ THE BLUE DOG — DUKES of Dixieland, 7 pm KITCHEN TABLE CAFÉ — Bad Penny Pleasuremakers, 6:30 pm MADAME VIC'S — Obliquestra with Dr. Sick, 7 pm NEUTRAL GROUND COFFEE HOUSE — Frenchie Moe and guests, 7:30 & 9 pm PALM COURT JAZZ CAFE — Will Smith with Palm Court Jazz Band, 7:30 pm REPUBLIC NOLA — Riot Ten + YDG, Jeanie, 11 pm ROCK 'N' BOWL — Karma, 8:30 pm SNUG HARBOR JAZZ BISTRO — Topsy Chapman & Solid Harmony, 8 & 10 pm THE HOWLIN' WOLF — Mehenet Album Release Party feat. Christworm and Brat, 10:30 pm THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE — The Nayo Jones Experience, 7:30 pm TIPITINA'S — Fred Wesley’s House Party, 9 pm ZONY MASH BEER PROJECT — Maggie Belle Band, 7 pm

SUNDAY 14 BAMBOULAS — NOLA Ragweeds Jazz, 2 pm; Rhythm Stompers, 6:30 pm; Ed Wills Blues 4 Sale, 10 pm BOURREE — T'Marie & The Bayou Juju, 2 pm; Rag-a-muffin Allstars, 6 pm

DIMITRIY PRIT YKIN / T H E T I M E S - P I C AY U N E CHAK A KHAN PERF O R M S N O V. 1 2 AT THE FILMORE

BUFFA'S — Some Like It Hot, 11 am & 1 pm; Dr. Sick, 7 & 9 pm CARNAVAL LOUNGE — My Politic, John Renshaw, Sarah E. Burke, 8 pm D.B.A. AT PALACE MARKET — Palmetto Bug Stompers, 5 pm; John Boutté, 7 pm; Treme Brass Band, 9 pm DOS JEFES — Richard "Piano" Scott, 8 pm LE BON TEMPS ROULE — Doctor Lo, 8 pm MADAME VIC'S — Sleaze Ball Orchestra, 7 pm NOLA BREWING COMPANY — Lynn Drury Band, 3 pm PALM COURT JAZZ CAFE — Mark Braud and Sunday Night Swingsters, 7:30 pm SNUG HARBOR JAZZ BISTRO — Delfeayo Marsalis Birthday Tribute to Ellis Marsalis, 8 & 10 pm THE HOWLIN' WOLF — Hot 8 Brass Band, 9 pm THE MAISON RESTAURANT AND MUSIC CLUB — Gregg Stafford and His Jazz Hounds, 4 pm TIPITINA'S — Kristin Diable, 7 pm

MONDAY 15 BUFFA'S — Leslie Cooper & Harry Mayronne with Doyle Cooper, 7 & 9 pm DOS JEFES — John Fohl, 8:30 pm

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Road tested

First s Sake S e Brewery Br y In New Orleans

by Will Coviello DAVE BOONE SETTLED DOWN IN NEW ORLEANS

in part because he was here when the pandemic closed down everything, including music clubs. But he was ready to get off the road. “In two and a half years on the road, I sprung for a Red Roof Inn like four times,” he says. “I had my van pretty well outfitted, but it’s a van. You get dressed every morning sitting on your ass because you can’t stand up.” He was exhausted from touring and staying put for a while was a welcome change. That left half of his band, alberta & The Dead Eyes, in New Orleans and half in Detroit. But they reunited during the pandemic to record “You Said Something,” which is out on vinyl and online on Friday, Nov. 12. Boone had been touring and recording for years as a solo performer under the name alberta. While back in Detroit, where he grew up, he reunited with drummer Erik Washington and bassist Bhuti Bhuti, and invited them to get in the van and go on the road. That core became alberta & The Dead Eyes. Boone was in New Orleans with the band’s lap steel guitarist Ashlan Ounanian when the pandemic started. They collaborated remotely with Washington and Bhuti to release 2020’s “No, No. You Go.” Then in October 2020, Bhuti and Washington relocated from Detroit to New Orleans. The band started rehearsing and recording in a Bywater studio space built out by Boone, who previously had worked as a carpenter. Boone had gotten into music as a drummer in a punk band, but then an uncle gave him a ’69 Stratocaster guitar. That turned him onto the harder, louder rock of Black Sabbath and Nirvana, before Bob Dylan’s “Boots of Spanish Leather” got him interested in blues and helped launch his singer-songwriter path. As a solo performer, he outfitted an acoustic guitar with a pickup and amped the sound, getting a rough roots rock sound. Recordings with alberta & The Dead Eyes still has the rough-cut sound. In New Orleans, the band rehearsed, wrote new material and

P R O V I D E D P H O T O B Y A L B E R TA & THE DEAD EYES

finished recording the tracks on “You Said Something” in May. The album’s A-side starts with a scattershot mix of vibes on “Whistle Me This,” before settling into the album’s best work. “See Saw” and “Belly” kick off a string of sultry, bluesy songs cresting with lap steel swells and a soft clattering of percussion. The highlight is the melodic “Lil’ Bird.” “I was thinking that I wouldn’t be able to sell (the rest of the band) on the song,” Boone says. “I lied and told them it was an old Skip James song I thought we should cover. I sang it a little more country blues and picking, and they loved it. We got the song done. Then I told them I wrote it.” The rest of the album includes some slower tempo, more strippeddown tracks. “Blush” is quieter and built around its bassline, and Boone plays harmonica at the end. The album closes with a return to more contemporary sounds on “Nice.” This is the first album the group is releasing on vinyl. The plan was to have it on local shelves, but pandemic supply chain issues have affected vinyl, so it’s available via the band’s website until more copies can be pressed. A planned release tour was scuttled when Covid’s Delta variant spiked. But Boone is looking forward to the more widespread return of live music and getting back on the road. “Bhuti and I bought an RV,” he says. “That’s sitting at the house waiting for a full band.” For more on “You Said Something,” visit deadeyesco.com.

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To advertise call Sandy Stein at 504.483.3150 or email sstein@gambitweekly.com


PAGE 6

‘Mahagonny Songspiel’

New Orleans Film Festival

Opera” at the AllWays Lounge in 2010. He’s got some of the same players back for a version of Bertolt Brecht, Kurt Weill and Elisabeth Hauptmann’s “Mahagonny Songspiel.” The production reopens the Mudlark Public Theatre. Shows are at 8 p.m. Thursday, Nov. 11, and Friday, Nov. 12, and 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. Saturday, Nov. 13. Tickets are sliding scale at the door or $20 via dennismonn.com.

Sunday, Nov. 14. Will Smith stars as Richard Williams, who launched the dominant professional tennis careers of his daughters, Serena and Venus Williams. The festival includes features, documentaries and short film screenings in person through Nov. 14, and most festival entries are available online through Nov. 21. Visit neworleansfilmsociety. org for information.

DENNIS MONN DIRECTED AN INSPIRED PRODUCTION of “The Threepenny

THE FILM FESTIVAL’S OFFICIAL CLOSING NIGHT FILM IS “KING RICHARD” on

Steve-O

IN THE 20-SOMETHING YEARS SINCE “JACKASS” literally slingshot him into

PHOTO BY LOUIS BROWNE

The Soul Rebels perform at FORESTival at Studio in the Woods on Saturday, Nov. 13.

FORESTtival

TULANE UNIVERSITY’S A STUDIO IN THE WOODS hosts FORESTival: A

Celebration of Art and Nature, featuring music by the Soul Rebels, Dr. Michael White and Sidiki Conde. There are presentations by artist Brandon Ballengee, Jeffery Darensbourg, Monique Moss and others. The festival also includes kids activities, food vendors, walks through the woods led by scientists and more. The festival is from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday, Nov. 13, at 13401 Patterson Road. Suggested donation $15. Visit astudiointhewoods. org for information.

Kristin Diable

SINGER-SONGWRITER KRISTIN DIABLE

blends rock, soul, blues and country and for this show, she’s reimagined

TAKEOUT and DELIVERY

some of her songs for accompaniment by the strings of the Radio Bird Quartet. At 7 p.m. Sunday, Nov. 14, at Tipitina’s. Tickets start at $15 at tipitinas.com.

‘Die Walkure’

THE NEW ORLEANS OPERA ASSOCIATION RETURNS TO LIVE PRODUCTIONS with

Richard Wagner’s “Die Walkure: Act One,” in which Siegmund and Sieglinde are reunited and discover that they are long separated twins. The production features music by the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra and video projections by Samantha Aldana. At 7:30 p.m. Friday, Nov. 12, and 2:30 p.m. Sunday, Nov. 14, at Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Tickets $25-$110 at neworleansopera.org.

a skater’s household name, it’s hard to imagine Steve-O would still have dumb, body-destroying things he hasn’t done — but he, in fact, had a list. And facing “this difficult spot, being Steve-O in my 40s,” the stuntman and comedian told the Orlando Sentinel, he figured he’d better hurry up and check off some of those items while he can. Across two years, Steve-O took on and filmed some truly absurd stunts — blowing up his living room with him in it, getting a vasectomy — and he is now touring a multimedia show, mixing clips of those stunts with stand-up and storytelling. He’s at The Joy Theater at 7 p.m. Friday, Nov. 12. Tickets start at $35 at thejoytheater.com.

Shannon Powell’s Traditional All Star Jazz Band THE NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FOUNDATION CONTINUES ITS FALL CONCERT SERIES at 7 p.m. Saturday, Nov.

13, with drummer and educator Shannon Powell and his trad jazz band of all-star players. All shows are at the George and Joyce Wein Jazz & Heritage Center. Tickets are $5 at jazzandheritage.org.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY NEW ORLEANS F I L M F E S T I VA L

‘King Richard,’ starring Will Smith, screens Sunday, Nov. 14, in the New Orleans Film Festival.

Bina Sharif

NEW YORK ACTRESS AND PLAYWRIGHT BINA SHARIF performs

her one-woman show “Afghan Woman,” written in reaction to the 9/11 attacks and invasion of Afghanistan, and a new work at Zeitgeist Theatre & Lounge. “Afghan Woman” runs at 8 p.m. Friday, Nov. 12, and 2 p.m. Saturday, Nov. 13. She and Kevin Mitchell Martin debut her new work, “Life is a One -Act Play,” at 6 p.m. Sunday, Nov. 14. Tickets $12-$15. Visit zeitgeistnola.org for information.

45 G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 02 1

A R T S & E N T E R TA I N M E N T


G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M >

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Issue dates: November 16 November 23 November 30 December 7 December 14 December 21

Contact Ad Director Sandy Stein 504.483.3150 or sstein@gambitweekly.com

Sun newspaper, is filled with the types of stories that grab headlines: kidnappings, police chases, revolutionary protests, illicit prison liaisons and art world fraud. And as adrenaline driven as these stories are in Wes Anderson’s “The French Dispatch,” the framework is an homage to long magazine stories, as eccentric writers adventure their way through elaborate tales. Spurring them on is an indulgent and dedicated editor, played by a fatherly but gruff Bill Murray. Anderson excels at the creation of whimsical and quixotic worlds, from the oceanic explorations of “The World Aquatic with Steve Zissou” to the intimate niches of stately old hotels in “The Grand Budapest Hotel.” In “The French Dispatch,” there are several small worlds, from the French city of Ennui-sur-Blase, where the magazine is headquartered, to the prison and other locales where several authors chase down their stories. The expansive cast is full of stars, many of them regulars in Anderson’s movies. Murray’s stable of writers includes Tilda Swinton as a cosmopolitan gadfly reporting on the artistic genius of a prisoner (played by Benicio del Toro) who discovered his gift while behind bars. Frances McDormand goes to the barricades to cover a student protest movement full of its own personal intrigue and infighting. Jeffrey Wright plays Roebuck Wright, a writer in search of a brilliant but secluded chef. Owen Wilson, as the reporter Herbsaint Sazerac, explores the underbelly of the town of Ennui on a bike ride. The prison artist’s muse is played by Lea Seydoux, whose busy career includes the latest James Bond films and Anderson’s “Budapest Hotel.” The bit parts are an entertaining sideshow. Saoirse Ronan flashes brilliant blue eyes in a snippet as a showgirl keeping an eye on a kidnapped boy. There also are brief appearances by Willem Dafoe, Edward Norton, Henry Winkler and many more. Anjelica Huston narrates the film. The timeframe is a throwback to decades before the age of smartphones and internet news. The student protests take place in the

PHOTO © 2020 TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX

zeitgeist of 1960s social change and fashions. Murray plays a man from the plains of Kansas who became enamored with travel. His travelogue became the basis for the magazine bureau nestled in the romanticized and worldly outpost of Ennui. News breaks at a brisk pace and gallows humor infuses several stories. One rambunctious tale is revealed in a mix of animation and scenes out of an old crime thriller. Anderson fills even the briefest scenes and pans of the camera with lush details, starting with an opening scene in which a waiter piles a tray with colorful drinks and snacks to take across the road to the offices of the Dispatch, where he climbs a maddening series of small staircases. A vintage plane is viewed in cutaway, much like the boats in “World Aquatic,” so the camera can pan through every compartment of the vessel, revealing the activities of their occupants. Anderson teases many intriguing threads that he doesn’t follow, like Ronan’s mysterious showgirl. The film is steeped in an affection for journalism. The Dispatch is modeled on The New Yorker and some of its esteemed editors and writers. A series of Dispatch covers illustrated in the distinct style of the magazine makes that link more explicit. Murray’s Arthur Howitzer Jr. allows his writers all the space they need to tell their inspired stories, which suits Anderson’s attention to the smallest of details. It’s hard to catch it all as the stories whisk by, but they seem larger than life. “The French Dispatch” runs at The Broad Theater, The Prytania Theatres at Canal Place and AMC Palace theaters.


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3 B ED, 4 .5 BATH, 3595 S F · $ 1,099,999 · ST. ELIZ ABETH'S ST RIKING 4-STORY CONDO W/ PRIVATE E NTRAN CE & 3 PARKING SPOTS +1 504-777-1773 OR VISIT nolastyles.com Engel & Völkers New Orleans • +1 504-875-3555 4826 Magazine Street • New Orleans, LA 70115 ©2021 Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Licensed in Louisiana

PREMIER CROSSWORD PUZZLE OH NO!

By Frank A. Longo 39 Gods, in Italy 40 Some thin batteries 43 Owner of Zipcar 44 Promotional links 45 Dad providing the finances? 49 Cottage cheese piece 50 Reject, as a lover 51 Turner of “Betrayed” 52 Sashimi fish 53 Jesting type 56 Bane of not knowing which college major to choose? 62 Vigoda of old TV and film 65 Hirer of many 27-Acrosses, for short

66 Skyrocket 67 Toll highway 68 Chemistry class cost 70 Like the letter O in this puzzle’s entire solution 73 Applies drippings to 75 Brain flash 76 Hajj city 77 “Palooka” actor Erwin 78 She’s shearable 79 Design of a three-masted ship? 86 “The Addams Family” cousin 87 Swivel on an axis 88 Ribald 89 Org. against pet abuse 93 “Will you let me?”

94 Reiner or Sagan wearing a Santa suit? 98 Hawaiian porches 101 Diminish 102 Malevolent 103 Eat dinner 104 British apartment doubling as a malt shop? 107 Ticks by 110 Sister of Meg, Jo and Amy 111 Diminish 112 Comedic actress Issa 115 Fit for the job 116 Lauder of makeup 118 Famous German taleteller who lived in a farm building? 125 Rhythmic swings 126 Rhythmic way to march 127 Strike hard, biblical-style 128 Very inclined 129 Dutch cheeses 130 Stitch clothes 131 Consequently DOWN 1 Butter square 2 Frau’s “Alas!” 3 Small, agile Japanese dog breed 4 Irwin of “Crikey! It’s the Irwins” 5 “Puff” snake 6 “I have it!” 7 Part of DVD 8 Stride 9 Actress Zadora 10 Business mag 11 “I hate it!” 12 Precipitates cold pellets 13 Italian motor scooter brand 14 Hamm of soccer 15 Boxed up 16 Slow-paced martial art 17 Footballer’s sweep 18 “Start over” buttons 21 “Begone!” 24 Queen guitarist May 29 Not off-key 31 Alternatives to JPEGs 32 Sign on for another tour of duty 33 Hawk cousins 35 Toddler’s cry

36 “— got a feeling ...” 37 Geraint’s title 38 Theoretical physicist Paul 41 Way yonder 42 Did karaoke 46 Joanne of “Red River” 47 Bellybutton type 48 Driveway goo 49 Adorable 52 Eldest son of Mitt Romney 53 Be the author of 54 Cockeyed 55 Duck cousins 57 Rapping “Dr.” 58 Very, in music scores 59 Hwy. crime 60 Banquet liquid holder 61 Rival of DHL and FedEx 62 Perp’s story 63 Having no knack for 64 Roger of “At the Movies” 69 E-help page 70 No more than 71 Former U.S. RR regulator 72 Educ. facility 73 A/C meas. 74 Subtle glows 76 Kihei’s island 77 Perplex 80 Pan Am rival 81 Paris palace

82 Bi- plus one 83 Make lighter 84 Video surveillance syst. 85 PC key abbr. 90 Submits, as a test paper 91 Mötley — 92 High peaks 93 Jungle knife 94 Half- — (java option) 95 “Good” cholesterol, for short 96 Lulu Hogg player Peggy 97 Imam’s God 98 Vilifies in print 99 Scores 100 on the test 100 Stinging plant 101 Certain radio frequency range 105 Yippie Hoffman 106 Not false 108 Discomfit 109 Large feather 113 Raggedy — (some dolls) 114 Livy’s “Lo!” 117 Seer’s “gift” 119 Sanyo rival 120 ’60s war site 121 ENTs, e.g. 122 Hack down 123 & so forth 124 Once called

ANSWERS FOR LAST ISSUE’S PUZZLE: P 2

PUZZLES

ACROSS 1 Vermicelli, e.g. 6 Commercial spots 9 16th-century pope 14 Olympic length unit 19 Had a dull, steady pain 20 Chart topper, often 22 Cockeyed 23 Hidden stockpiles of certain infield bags? 25 Low-pH liquids 26 Certain Southern sib 27 Tax doc. whiz 28 Lead-in to Pen 30 Ranch unit 31 Grassy tract 34 Instructions for securing a bottle with a screw cap?

1 3 1 4 N A P O L E O N AV E # 1 1

G A M B I T > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > N OV E M B E R 9 - 1 5 > 2 0 2 1

7930 PLUM STREET

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