now on view
WE D N E S DAY WI N E N I G H T
Exibitions at The Historic New Orleans Collection Shout, Sister, Shout! The Boswell Sisters of New Orleans 533 ROYAL STREET
Get acquainted with the New Orleans trio who became a national sensation in the 1920s and ‘30s. The Boswell Sisters; 1925; THNOC, gift of the Boswell Museum of Music, 2011.0315.95
Creole World: Photographs of New Orleans and the Latin Caribbean Sphere 400 CHARTRES STREET
Marvel at the historically rich, interconnected Creole world through the lens of photographer Richard Sexton. Cienfuegos, Cuba; 2009 ©Richard Sexton, photographer
20 20 $
FOR
20 SELECT BOTTLES OF WINE FOR ONLY $20 EACH
From Cameo to Close-Up: Louisiana in Film 410 CHARTRES STREET
Celebrate Louisiana’s star-studded history in the movie business IN THE HOTEL MONTELEONE
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Six-sheet poster for A Streetcar Named Desire; 1951; THNOC, Fred W. Todd Tennessee Williams Collection, 2008.0029.1
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Official Headquarter Hotel of The New Orleans Wine & Food Experience
The Louisiana History Galleries 533 ROYAL STREET
Explore three centuries of local and regional history illustrated with THNOC’s permanent holdings.
Battle of New Orleans and Death of Major General Packenham [sic] on the 8th of January 1815; THNOC, 1949.2i–ii
All exhibitions are free and open to the public. Visit hnoc.org or call (504) 523-4662 for gallery hours and additional information.
Located at 214 ROYAL STREET. For dining reservations please call 504.681.4444 or visit CRIOLLONOLA.COM
The new Old World Lesser-known wines from well-known wine countries. BY BRENDA M A ITL A ND
IN
New Orleans
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ies around Carmignano blended cabernet sauvignon with sangiovese. When the region aquired a Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOCG) designation in 1974, it was decreed that the wines from Carmignano had to contain at least 50 percent sangiovese grapes and up to 20 percent could be cabernet sauvignon or cabernet Franc, with the rest coming from malvasia, canaiolo nero and mammolo. These red wines are good with Italian dishes or by themselves. In another Old World bastion, picpoul comes mainly from the Rhone region and has also found a home in the Languedoc area of southwest France. The AOC, or regulated appelation of picpoul de Pinet, features an elegant and seductive expression of the grape, where it is paired well with local game and fish, a rare dual billing for a white wine. It has a citrus character and plenty of acid, which helps explains its suitability for food. Sometimes the wine-making process defines the character of a wine instead of the grapes. In Galicia in northwestern Spain, the white wine grape godello, a member of the verdelho family, is harvested on steep hills affected by Atlantic influences. Fermentation of 20 percent of the grapes takes place in oak barrels and the rest in stainless steel. The result is a bright, fresh, citrusy wine with hints of ginger and fennel that goes well with food.
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hile there is comfort in familiar and tried and true wines, there also are many benefits to trying new wines. Besides the fun of broadening your palate and entertaining friends with new finds, these wines often are good values. Here are some emerging regions and lesserknown grapes to explore. In southern Italy’s boot lies Campania, which includes the cities of Naples and Salerno and the region of Basilicata. It also is home to the underappreciated aglianico grape. This Italian black grape — transplanted from Greece — is used to make deep red, aromatic, dry wines exhibiting one of the most sought after styles from the area surrounding the dormant volcano Mount Vulture. Aglianico is the main red varietal grown in the province. Many well-made aglianico wines are well-structured with dark fruit flavors, good acidity and firm tannins. The wine has been described as the barolo of the south, a flattering comparison to the Piedmont region’s renowned wine. Although the wines have been deemed worthy of cellaring, the 2011 vintage is approachable now, and so is the price. In central Italy, the village of San Gimignano is known as the Manhattan of Tuscany because of its conspicuous skyline. In the Middle Ages, families of the town demonstrated their wealth by building towers, always striving to build the tallest new marker. Olive groves thrive in the area’s sandstone soils, and so do white grapes such as vernaccia. The grape dates back to the 1200s and may not be related to other Italian varietals using the same name. In recent years, oak aging has been introduced to the winemaking process, which lengthens and softens the crisp aspects of vernaccia di San Gimignano, but its signature acid character continues to be the hallmark of the wine. Carmignano is a city 10 miles northwest of Florence. It has been a winemaking center since the Middle Ages and is notable as an exception rather than the rule. Long before grape blends were allowed in Tuscany, including now popular Super Tuscan blends, the winer-
Handmade
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2014 Wine Guide | www.bestofneworleans.com
Vintage
Appeal The New Orleans Wine and Food Experience uncorks 1,000 wines for a good cause BY W ILL COV IELLO
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May 21-24 New Orleans Wine & Food Experience Various locations www.nowfe.com and bellinis, and food trucks La Cocinita, Food Drunk, NOLA Girl and the NOCCA truck will serve food on the 900 to 1000 blocks of Royal Street. The Vinola (tickets $150) tasting features only wines that retail for at least $75. There also are seminars for those interested in exploring wine more seriously. The cleverly named “Talk Dirty to Me” panel discussion delves into winemakers’ experiences with vineyard soils. “Simply Sake” is an introduction to sake styles, regional differences and tasting and food-pairing notes. In “Temper Tantrums,” pastry chef Rhonda Ruckman shares tips on using chocolate in sauces, cakes and candy. The Big Gateaux Show is a cooking competition featuring architectural-scale cakes with a burlesque theme. Celebrity judges include Ong and New Orleans’ Tariq Hanna, owner of Sucre and competitor on TLC’s Ultimate Cake Off, Bronwen Weber, a Dallas pastry chef and frequent guest on Food Network Challenge baking competitions. NOWFE is a nonprofit organization with a mostly volunteer staff, and one of its goals is to support culinary programs in the New Orleans area. It has donated more than $1 million to education groups and nonprofits. This year, the primary beneficiary is Cafe Reconcile, the restaurant industry training program for at-risk youth. Other 2014 beneficiaries include Delgado Culinary Arts School, New Orleans Center for the Creative Arts Culinary Program, Edible Schoolyard, John Folse Culinary Institute, Education Foundation’s ProStart Program and the Louisiana Restaurant Association. The education programs may help the next celebrity chef get started. Or maybe a sommelier.
www.bestofneworleans.com | 2014 Wine Guide
ill sommeliers be the next group elevated to celebrity cheflike status, or become reality TV competitors? “The guy on the street is getting an idea of what a sommelier is,” says Chris Ycaza, president of the board of the New Orleans Wine & Food Experience (NOWFE). “Fifteen years ago, before the cooking competitions started, people starting watching chefs on TV. They started to recognize that that’s a real job.” Mixologists have garnered some of the spotlight in recent years, and maybe sommeliers are next. Wine enthusiasts attending NOWFE, the annual Memorial Day weekend festival, may be excited to meet rising-star sommelier Rajat Parr, author of Secrets of the Sommeliers, or Ian Cauble, the youngest person to earn the title Master Sommelier (a credential attained by a total of 200 people in the last 40 years). But the festival has something for everyone, from casual wine drinkers to drinks enthusiasts who want to jump onto the learning curve of familiarizing themselves with sake, the Japanese rice wine sometimes mistaken for a stronger spirit. For those interested in the culinary side, the Grand Tastings include food from dozens of local restaurants, and The Big Gateaux Show is a top-level pastry competition (see Three-Course Interview with pastry chef/restaurateu Pichet Ong on Gambit, page 27). There’s a seafood cooking competition at Saturday’s Grand T asting. In its 22 years, some of the festival’s largest events have drawn crowds for the festival-like bounty of food and drink. Grand Tastings at the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center on Friday evening and Saturday afternoon (tickets $99 in advance, $119 at the door) feature vintners from around the globe and food from local restaurants. Thursday’s Royal Street Stroll stations vintners at Royal Street art and antique galleries and Zonin Prosecco Park is a new edition to the Stroll. Italian sparkling winemaker Zonin offers prosecco, sparkling rose
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Wine Reviews Wines from around the world. NV Casa Dora Cava Brut
S PA IN RETAIL $9-$11 The area just south of Barcelona on the Mediterranean coast is a point of origin for great sparkling wines. These wines, known as cava, have the structure, fruit and qualities — but not the prices — of Champagne or sparkling wines from California. The area is Penedes, and by law, cava must be produced in the classical method — in which the second fermentation takes place in a bottle. This wine is a blend of 50 percent macabeo, 35 percent parellada and 15 percent xarel-lo. It has a pale straw color and flavors of citrus, biscuits, green apple and a hint of spice. Small bubbles indicate the wine is well-crafted. Drink it with everything from potato chips and truffled popcorn to smoked salmon and foie gras. Buy it at: Martin Wine Cellar and Faubourg Wines. Drink it at: Mr. B’s Bistro and Little Gem Saloon.
2014 Wine Guide | www.bestofneworleans.com
2012 Donnafugata Anthilia
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S I C ILY, I TA LY RETAIL $11-$16 The woman in flight depicted on the label and for whom the winery is named is Queen Maria Carolina, wife of King Ferdinand IV, who fled her native Naples, Italy, ahead of conquering Napoleon in the early 1800s. She took up residence in Sicily on the estate of this winery, preferring to live in obscurity rather than be a subject of the emperor. Bathed in warm Mediterranean light, the estate produces rich and voluptuous fruit. Anthilia is the Roman name of the city of Entella, and today it also refers to the entire winegrowing region. This was one of the first wines produced by the export powerhouse Donnafugata. The main grape is the catarratto, the most widely planted grape in Sicily, which adds citrusy notes. Minor grapes make up the
BY BRENDA MAITL AND
remainder of the blend for Anthilia, but catarratto gives the wine most of its character. The wine touches no wood and most of the vinification process is completed in cold conditions to preserve freshness. Drink it with light pasta dishes, barbecue shrimp and grilled scallops. Buy it at: Whole Foods Market on North Broad Street, Vieux Carre Wine & Spirits, Dorignac’s and Acquistapace’s Covington Supermarket. Drink it at: Cibugnu, The Italian Barrel, Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Uptown, Allegro Bistro, Cafe Giovanni, Brick Oven Cafe, Ristorante Del Porto and Gio’s Villa Vancheri.
2013 Bieler Pere et Fils Rose
A I X EN P R O V EN C E, FR A N C E RETAIL $11-$13 This rich blend’s varietal grapes each come from a different vineyard in the French countryside of Coteaux d’Aix en Provence. The rose takes its main smoky but soft cue from syrah (55 percent) and gets its backbone from cabernet sauvignon (25 percent). The other grapes include grenache (15 percent), cinsault (5 percent) and rolle (3 percent). Winemaker Charles Bieler’s almost 20 years in the wine industry are not wasted with this effort, an homage to his father, Philippe, and sister, Mira. Also honored is Charles’ daughter Sabine, born 1995, the year of the wine’s inaugural vintage. The grapes reach the press within two hours of picking, leaving little time for skin contact. No wood is used in the fermentation process and the winemaker opted for a light, layered style. The results are bright, fresh flavors of strawberry and cherry, as well as some chocolate notes buried in the syrah-cabernet combination. Drink it with shrimp remoulade, salmon and salads. Buy it at: The Wine Seller, Swirl Wine Bar and Market, Faubourg Wines, Whole Foods Market on Magazine and North Broad streets. Drink it at: Antoine’s, Sylvain, NOLA, Three Muses, Lucky Rooster, Loa, Cowbell, The Delachaise and Louisiana Pizza Kitchen.
2013 Protea Chenin Blanc
W ES T ERN C A P E, S O U T H A FRI C A RETAIL $16-$19 Vineyards on South Africa’s Western Cape are subject to a multitude of geographic and meteorological influences. The terrain is mountainous, ranging to 7,000 feet in height, and it is bordered by both the Atlantic and Indian oceans. Chenin blanc, a grape associated with France’s Loire Valley, thrives here and the grape is used in a multitude of wines, including this 100 percent chenin blanc as well as white blends and sparkling wines. For this bottling, the juice ages three months on its lees and cold fermentation occurs in stainless steel. The wine offers the grape’s characteristic flavors of lemon, honeysuckle and pear. Drink it with mussels, sushi, chicken salad and boiled crawfish. Buy it at: Swirl Wine Bar and Market, W.I.N.O., Kiefe & Co. and Whole Foods Market in Metairie. Drink it at: Le Foret, Borgne, The Grill Room, Dominique’s on Magazine, Hotel Monteleone and Cafe Lynn.
2012 J. Portugal Ramos Lima Vinho Verde
P O RT U GA L RETAIL $11 At the point where northern Portugal meets the Galicia region of Spain, the Loureiro area produces elegant, fruit-forward, captivating vinho verde wines. Vineyards proliferate along the Lima River’s banks, with the breezes allowing the vines to cool in the evening. “Vinho verde” is a descriptor used to indicate a young wine. Sometimes the wines exhibit a spritzy character, indicative that malolactic fermentation has taken place and may still be happening. Fruit for these wines usually is grown high off the ground, which allows for other fruits or vegetables to grow underneath. The wine undergoes cold fermentation and touches no oak, resulting in flavors of lemon grass, white tea, minerality and Mediterranean herbal notes. The low-alcohol wine is good as an aperitif or an accompaniment to lighter dishes. Buy it at: Swirl Wine Bar and Market. Drink it at: Le Pavillon Hotel.
2012 Sean Minor Four Bears Pinot Noir
C EN T R A L C OA S T, C A L IFO RN I A RETAIL $13-$15 Pinot noir is such a particular grape that even a difference of a couple vine rows can alter the complexion of the wine. Pinot noirs from the Central Coast of PAGE 8
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California are typically denser and blacker than those from Oregon or California’s Russian River. The grapes for this wine were sourced from various sites, harvested at optimum ripeness, destemmed and placed in open-top stainless steel fermenters. After fermentation, the wine was racked to oak for aging. Its flavors of cherry, raspberry and strawberry are hallmarks of pinot noir, but there are also earth and tobacco qualities, which are associated with bigger, bolder reds. The oaky finish is pronounced because pinot noir can take a big hit of wood, and there’s a final blast of acidity. Drink it with rosemary chicken, duck tamales, grilled tuna and salmon. Buy it at: Swirl Wine Bar and Market and Dorignac’s. Drink it at: Mizado.
2014 Wine Guide | www.bestofneworleans.com
2012 Stadt Krems Gruner Veltliner
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K REM S TA L , AU S T RI A RETAIL $15-$17 The Kremstal, awarded its own denomination of origin in 2007, is adjacent to the vaunted Wachau region in Austria. Cool, humid breezes, a Wachau trademark, blend with warm, dry winds from the east, which contribute to the Kremstal’s longer growing seasons. Gruner veltliner, normally a short-season, cool-weather grape, benefits here by developing more complicated, layered textures due to longer hang times and warmer soils. The winery dates to the 1200s and now is owned by a municipality. In the Kremstal, gruner veltliner, the main grape variety for Austria, takes a backseat to riesling and chardonnay, but this gruner is special. White currants, citrus and stone fruit characteristics come together, providing a clean, refreshing wine. It has a low 12.5 percent alcohol content, but its acidic character enhances its appeal in pairing with food. Drink it with spicy Thai and Asian dishes, broiled seafood or fried soft-shell crab. Buy it at: Elio’s Wine Warehouse, Hopper’s Carte des Vins and W.I.N.O. Drink it at: The Pelican Club, Peche Seafood Grill, Cochon, Emeril’s Delmonico, Canal Street Bistro and The Tasting Room.
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2013 Gaia Rose Agiorgitiko
G REEC E RETAIL $18 This rose is made from the most widely planted red grape in Greece. The wine spends only 18 hours on its skins after harvest, leaving the juice a cool pink color and offering aromas of strawberry, watermelon and a hint of sea salt. The flavors
carry through from the bouquet, and the watermelon facets take on a hard-candy quality. The wine is very dry, devoid of residual sugar, and the acid levels are well-defined. It has hints of cherry and gooseberry and at the end, minerality creeps in leaving the mouth clean. Drink it with red beans and sausage, tuna tartare, stuffed eggs and barbecued ribs. Buy it at: Pearl Wine Co. Drink it at: Atchafalaya, Byblos, The Delachaise, Green Goddess, The Tasting Room and Slice Pizzeria on Magazine Street.
2012 Santa Luz Alba Sauvignon Blanc
C EN T R A L VA L L E Y, C HIL E RETAIL $9 Chile’s winemaking industry was established in the 1800s, but it was energized in the early 1970s when winemakers realized the quality of the nation’s growing conditions. The Luis Felipe Edwards family has an estate larger than 2,000 acres, but it is not planted for quantity. This sauvignon blanc proves that the grape can grow in the region and reflects its innate characteristics as well as those of the region. The winery is modern in every way, and this wine touches only stainless steel, with the entire process done under ideal cold conditions. The wine offers herbal and lemon aromas and melon on the palate. Drink it with fresh seafood. Buy it at: Faubourg Wines.
NV Cote Mas Jean-Claude Mas a St. Hilaire Cremant de Limoux Brut Rose
FR A N C E RETAIL $19 In southwestern France, the region known as the Languedoc is capable of producing a variety of grapes and wine styles. Cremant is a French sparkling wine made in the methode traditionelle, which means the second fermentation occurs in the bottle. This salmon-hued wine comes from around the village of Limoux. It is a blend of 70 percent chardonnay, 10 percent pinot noir and 20 percent chenin blanc. The soft creamy mousse introduces delicate strawberry flavors, red currants, blood orange, freshly baked bread and dried herbs. One also tastes honeysuckle, citrus, grapefruit, apricot, peach and some fig. Drink it as an aperitif with a variety of dishes. Buy it at: Pearl Wine Co. Drink it at: Bayona.
Email Brenda Maitland at winediva1@bellsouth.net
Glass Houses Wine bars and restaurant lounges with vintage appeal.
BY ANNE BERRY
If the city can’t fix my street, I’m going to
“ PIMP MY
POTHOLE! ” A GREATER NEW ORLEANS
PHOTO CONTEST AND MOVEMENT
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hether one wants to enjoy wines solo or explore them with food, New Orleans has plenty of options. Below are some wine bars and restaurants that have bar space and food to complement the wine offerings.
Bacchanal (600 Poland Ave., 504-948-9111; www.bacchanalwine.com) A permanent kitchen and an air-conditioned cocktail lounge upstairs haven’t lessened this wine shop’s irreverent, funky feel. Browse Old World bottles, put together a meat and cheese plate, order from chef Joaquin Rodas’ Mediterranean-inspired menu (the kitchen is cash only), and take it to the torch-lit, open-air courtyard. Saturday wine tastings (3 p.m.) are free, and there is live music. Bellocq (936 St. Charles Ave., 504-962-
0911; www.thehotelmodern.com/bellocq) Inspired by decadent European cafes, Bellocq is a stylish lounge and will revamp its food offerings later this summer, says co-owner Kirk Estinopal. Think luxe cheeses, cured meats, local preserves and pickles, available as takeout picnics or pintxos to accompany Bellocq’s wines (a deep focus on fortified styles, including limited releases like Montenegrin vermouth and fortified barolo). Bottles are flat-priced at $40 each.
Bouligny Tavern (3641 Magazine St.,
Cava (789 Harrison Ave., 504-304-9034)
Co-owner/general manager Danny Millan has spent decades in the restaurant business, so he knows what customers like. “It used to be French — Bordeaux, Burgundys,” he says. “Now it’s Spain, Argentina, Chile and 60 percent of my wine list is from California.” If you’re unsure, Millan himself can help find a new favorite; enjoy it before dinner on the upper balcony.
The Franklin (2600 Dauphine St., 504-267-0640) In step with Jim Bremer’s local pro-
P H O T O BY C H ER Y L G ER B ER
duce-focused kitchen, beverage director Franklin Buist looks for natural wines — unfiltered, native-yeasted and grown on polyculture farms. “Besides treating Mother Earth properly, it gives the wine a rusticity and timelessness,” Buist says. Look for natural wines with “integrity and lots of value” from regions including Croatia, Lebanon, Israel and the Greek island of Santorini as well as wines to pair with Bremer’s daily specials.
Marcello’s Restaurant & Wine Bar (715 St. Charles Ave.,
504-581-6333; www.marcelloscafe.com) Racked bottles in the dining room mean this wine list is “interactive” — and that diners drink at retail prices, manager Chris Curtis says. Daily happy hours (2:30 p.m.-6 p.m.) take discounts a step further, with half-priced cocktails, beer and wines by the glass. The strong selection of Italian wines is complemented by the kitchen’s Sicilian plates; pair them with a panino or fried calamari.
Mondo (900 Harrison Ave., 504-224-2633; www.mondoneworleans.com) Louisiana and international street food meet their match in a global wine list curated by general manager Jenni Lynch (who wrote the lively descriptions). Many bottles hit what she calls the “sweet spot” price range of $35-$45. Patrons can try by-the-glass breakouts, hailing from Slovenia to Argentina, Chile to California, and locals know to ask for Mondo’s signature sangria: Chardonnay-based, fruity and spiked with a mix of spirits. SoBou (310 Chartres St., 504-552-4095; www.sobounola.com) At this chic saloon, “the food comes in rounds, not courses,” says wine director
Dan Davis. He organized the list of more than 200 bottles by style, with options to sample half-glasses. Sommelier Patrick DiFilippo manages the program, including wine machines that dispense 1-ounce, half- and full-glass pours. Next in that rotation are vintages from New Zealand and Australia. During daily happy hour (3 p.m.-6 p.m.), select wines are $4 a glass.
Square Root
(1800 Magazine St., 504-309-7800; www.squarerootnola.com) Sommelier Liz Dowty sources food-friendly, adventurous wines to match chef Phillip Lopez’s ambitious tasting menu (courses are matched with virgin drinks, cocktails or wines). Any wine from the pairing menu can be had by the glass, she says (even highend, cult-favorite bottlings), thanks to Coravin tools that pour without pulling the cork. In the second-floor lounge, wines serve as the base for several of Max Messier’s smart cocktails.
The Tasting Room
(1906 Magazine St., 504-581-3880; www.ttrneworleans.com) Toby DeVore grew up on land leased to a grape farmer, so it’s no surprise his wine bar (co-owned with wife Lisa) is all about sampling. To that end, he offers 50 wines by the glass, $20 wine flights (staff picks or build your own) and tastings of five wines for $15 (Wednesday through Saturday, 2 p.m.-6 p.m.). DeVore favors small-production, offbeat wines, which jibe with the pop-up restaurant Arabella Casa di Pasta serving food in Tasting Room’s courtyard.
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504-891-1810; www.boulignytavern.com) Sommelier Cary Palmer has an eye for obscure spirits (he helped lead the Batavia arrack revival) and wines. His latest find is country wine from the Jura region in eastern France (off-menu, so ask for it). “It’s a lesser-known, funky appellation and an alternative to Burgundys,” says Palmer, the wine director at Bouligny Tavern and neighboring Lilette. The former’s list is “more free-form” to go with small plates and includes sakes and sparkling wines by the glass.
Patrons enjoy glasses of wine at the bar at Mondo.
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Inside
Metairie Small Animal Hospital
101 Metairie Road 835-4266 • msah.com
AN AUTHENTIC BOURBON STREET BISTRO & OYSTER BAR
2014 Wine Guide | www.bestofneworleans.com
Renowned for top quality New Orleans seafood specialties.
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QUARTER STYLE
Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Enjoy the sights and sounds of the French Quarter right from your table.
Light, Fun & Creative | Seasonal Menus Complimentary Parking at Lunch Weekday Lunch: Wed.-Fri. 11:30am-2:30pm Nightly Dinner | Sunday Jazz Brunch Private event dining available
777 Bienville St at the Royal Sonesta Hotel
504.553.2277 www.revolutionnola.com
On the corner of Bienville and Bourbon at the Royal Sonesta Hotel New Orleans 504.553.2281 Reservations not required
The grapevine Wine shops in the New Orleans area
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ust as new restaurants keep opening in New Orleans, wine shops also are proliferating. In recent years. Wine shops catering to different clienteles have opened in the Warehouse District and Faughborg Marigny. Below are some of the new and established wine shops in the area.
Second Vine Wines
1027 Touro St., (504) 304-4453 www.secondvinewine.com In the few months since opening, Second Vine Wine has created a buzz in the neighborhoods of Treme, Marigny and Bywater. Owners/partners Troy Gant and Louis Keyes have worked for top international companies in the wine and spirits field for more than a decade, and they put those connections to work when opening the shop in the Marigny Triangle. “Our goal is to make our customers feel comfortable whether they come in for a moscato or a barolo,” Gant says. “In addition, we want to educate them, whether it’s just by pointing out a wine region on the wall maps to share the provenance of the wine or something more.” Second Vine also operates as a wine bar and has craft beers as well.
Faubourg Wines
Bin 428
2801 Magazine St., (504) 269-6200 www.bin428.com At Bin 428, Candace Latter put experience at the Creole grande dame Tujague’s to work when she opened the business in early fall 2013. “Because my family is rooted in the hospitality and restaurant industry, I am accustomed to listening to what my patrons want and responding to those requests,” Latter says. “Because Bin 428 is a boutique, we can easily offer the products and the level of service desired by the customer.”
The shop offers a variety of styles, including selections from popular wine-producing regions of France and California, among its roughly 500 bottles. It also offers liquor.
Keife & Co.
801 Howard Ave., (504) 523-7272 www.keifeandco.com Keife & Co. opened nearly two years ago in the Warehouse District. The team of John Keife, wife Aimee Keife and Jim Yonkus put together an emporium that has gained a following with its uncommon, small-producer bottlings, gourmet deli food and wine tastings. The space gets an Old World feel thanks to the period building and savvy design. The store offers a selection of wines, spirits, craft beers, bartending tools and fine cheeses and chocolates and cured meats.
Swirl Wine Bar and Market
3143 Ponce de Leon St., (504) 304-0635 www.swirlinthecity.com Beth Ribblet and Kerry Tully opened Swirl Wine Bar and Market in Mid-City in early 2006 and it has grown steadily. “We had our best year yet in 2013,” Ribblet says. “But 2014 is off to an even better start than last year. With all the new wine shops opening, that’s proof to me that the New Orleans wine scene is finally coming around.” Ribblet has tried to make Swirl a place to experience wine and learn about it, with a wine bar, wine tastings and other culinary events. Wine offerings are grouped not by region but by characteristics and styles. Twenty-five are available by the glass.
Martin Wine Cellar
714 Elmeer Ave., (504) 896-7300; 3500 Magazine St., (504) 894-7420; Village Shopping Center, 2895 Highway 190, Mandeville, (985) 951-8081 www.martinwine.com Martin Wine Cellar recently announced it will rebuild a 14,000-square-foot store at the site of its original shop Uptown. The store at 3827 Baronne St. was shuttered following Hurricane Katrina. “The Baronne Street store is being rebuilt and if the schedule holds, it will reopen later this year,” says CEO Dave Gladden. Martin Wine Cellar originally opened in 1946, and it expanded to a location in Metairie in 1989. The Metairie shop has a deli and offers cheeses, gourmet foods and gifts.
Acquistapace’s Covington Supermarket
125 E. 21st Ave., Covington, (985) 893-0593 www.aquistapaces.com Adam Acquistapace is proud that his family has been in the grocery business since 1963. The Northshore store expanded its spirits offerings in 2000 and offers 2,000 spirit selections, almost 1,000 different beers and nearly 3,000 wine labels.
www.bestofneworleans.com | 2014 Wine Guide
2805 St Claude Ave., (504) 342-2217 www.faubourgwines.com Faubourg Wines owner Catherine Markel got into the wine business accidentally, she says. After Hurricane Katrina, “My career was sidelined, I had a place to live but no job,” Markel says. “This little wine shop opened and I became the lone employee.” Faubourg Wines focuses on affordable, low-production wines. The store strives to carry at least 100 bottles costing less than $15, and there is a selection of wines by the glass for $5. Faubourg also delivers wine orders. Markel lives two blocks from the store and has made it part of her neighborhood. “In just a year I know I’ve introduced many people to wine,” Markel says. “I think we’ve created a very strong sense of community and that‘s what I really love about the store. Wine is the great unifier.”
BY BRENDA MAITL AND
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2014 Wine Guide | www.bestofneworleans.com
The beach ball on the mid-century Wade Pottery piece serves as a handle for a corkscrew that rests in the seal’s mouth when not in use, $225 at New Orleans Silversmiths (600 Chartres St., 504-522-8333; www.neworleanssilversmiths.com).
Clusters of grapes decorate wine glass markers (reproductions of wax seals) that adhere to glasses with suction cups and help guests keep track of their wine glasses, $9.95 for set of eight at Bin 428 (2801 Magazine St., 504-269-6200; www.bin428.com).
A pewter-finish lazy Susan has a Sonoma Estate Vineyards logo etched on the tray, $175 at Gentry (6047 Magazine St., 504-899-4223).
Fruits Vine off the
Accessories for wine enthusiasts
BY K ANDACE P OW ER GR AV ES
This cork retriever by Vin Bouquet makes an easy job of lifting a cork that’s floating inside a wine bottle, $20 at Hopper’s Carte des Vins (5601 Magazine St., 504-227-3888; www. hopperscartedesvins.com). Practicality with a sense of humor: a full-size fold-up “dry reserve” Vinrella umbrella comes in a hard-shell plastic wine bottle-shaped case, $22 at Judy at the Rink (The Rink, 2727 Prytania St., 504-891-7018; www.judyattherink.com).
Take wine or champagne with you in an insulated bottle sleeve that comes with a corkscrew in a mesh pocket, $7.99 at Martin Wine Cellar (714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504-8967300; Village Shopping Center, 2895 Highway 190, Mandeville, 985-951-8081; 3500 Magazine St., 504-894-7420; www.martinwine.com).
Anne Taintor adds fun to the traditional metal flask with vintage pictures and humorous sayings, $14.99 at Pearl Wine Co. (3700 Orleans Ave., Suite 1C, 504-483-6314; www.pearlwineco.com).
www.bestofneworleans.com | 2014 Wine Guide
Take your favorite oenophile from casual to dressy with a two-bottle carrying case made of heavy canvas and leather with a handle and a shoulder strap, $275 at Keife & Co. (801 Howard Ave., 504-523-7272; www.keifeandco.com).
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Vintage South Africa A taste of South African wines.
BY BRENDA M A I T L A ND
2014 Wine Guide | www.bestofneworleans.com
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hen the industry promotional group Wines of South Africa (WOSA) planned its 2014 U.S. tour, it included a stop in New Orleans. It worked in conjunction with the PBS show Original Fare, which was shooting an episode on wine bars across the country, and Pearl Wine Co. was filmed for the show because of its selection of South African wines, says owner Leora Madden. Shortly after the New Orleans event, WOSA invited Madden and a handful of U.S. retailers on a 10-day tour of South African wineries. The tour shed light on the development of the nation’s wine industry. “It was unbelievable,” Madden says. “We spent three days in Stellenbosch, seeing at least two dozen producers a day and tasting more than 200 wines a day.” The group also picked grapes with winemakers, visited cellars to observe the fermentation processes, tasted wines from barrels and visited Graham Beck Nature Reserve. “The typography, geography, the soils, which are mostly made up of decomposed granite, are in drastically different climates within very short distances apart and I think that’s what makes South African wines so fascinating.” Wine production began very modestly in South Africa with the arrival of the Dutch in the 17th century. Eventually, exports to Britain helped encourage the growth of an industry, but it wasn’t until the 1950s that winemaking took off, as vintners were successfully producing affordable white table wines. In recent decades, South African winemakers have gained acclaim for high-quality reds and whites. Stellenbosch produces highly regarded sauvignon blancs and chenin blancs and is the country’s largest regional exporter, Madden says, adding, “The most important thing I got from the trip is that the Swartland is currently the best wine-producing region in South Africa.” Madden met with some top winemakers who were attracted to the region. “I met a number of distinguished winemakers I’ve been following through the years,” she says. “That
Leora Madden at her Mid-City Shop Pearl Wine Co. P H O T O BY C H ER Y L G ER B ER
was the highlight of the trip, to meet and chat with these winemakers and several of them are coming to New Orleans in September.” “We blind-tasted with the cellarmaster at Chocolate Block in Swartland,” she said. Boekenhoutskloof’s The Chocolate Block is a complex blend of primarily syrah, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, cinsault and viognier. It’s among to a wave of new South African red blends that are drawing attention around the globe. “We visited a new AOC (the South African designation for a wine produced entirely with grapes from a specific region), Hemel-en-Aarde, which is producing some of the best pinot noir I’ve ever had,” Madden says. “I tasted a Sadie Family syrahmourvedre blend and had never dreamed I would taste a wine of that stature and quality from South Africa,” she adds. At Pearl, the shop she purchased a year ago and renamed after her great-grandmother, Madden stocks the syrah-mourvedre blend as well as white and sparkling wines from the A.E. Badenhorst and Mulderbosch wineries and red wines such as Wildekrans pinotage, featuring one of the nation’s signature red grapes. The shop hosts a tasting of South African wine on Wednesday, May 28. Pearl Wine Co. is at 3700 Orleans Ave., (504) 483-6314; www.pearlwineco.com.
Matchmakers Sommeliers pair wines with New Orleans dishes.
BY BRENDA MAITL AND
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Barry Himel oversees wine programs at Dickie Brennan Restaurants, including Tableau with its elegant wine room. P H O TO BY C HERY L G ERBER
France’s Loire Valley. “The wine is bright, clean, steely and mineral-driven with a lot of zippiness and energy,” he says. For eggs Sardou, Himel likes the grower Champagne Pierre Pallard Grand Brut or the Henriot Brut Rose. Another option is Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir for its aromatics, excellent acidity and elegant style. “Shrimp and grits is an easy dish to prepare at home for both brunch and as a main course,” Himel says. “Our version involves serving the shrimp in a beer-spiked New Orleans-style barbecue sauce.” Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse serves a slightly different version with jalapeno and cheddar grits cakes. For both of the dishes Himel chooses a Feraud-Brunel Cote-du-Rhone Villages for its soft fruit and low tannin profile. “The wine shows some herbs de Provence and typical garrigue that pairs well with the dish,” he adds. He also notes that the wine would go well with grits and grillades. Himel stays in the Rhone for a pairing with grilled lamb chops, choosing a Domaine St. Damien “La Louisiane” from Gigondas, a grenache and mourvedre blend with that same regional herbal character. At Palace Cafe, Himel turns to Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand, to pair with the oysters pan roast with rosemary and herbed breadcrumbs. Herb-roasted chicken is another dish common to both restaurants and home dinner tables. With Palace Cafe’s rotisserie chicken, Himel recommends Hartford Court Russian River Valley Chardonnay or, for
red wine lovers, Roco Winery Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. “The pinot exudes a classic Burgundian personality, with nice aromatics, soft tannins, red fruit and a little spice.” For Palace Cafe’s signature pepper-crusted duck breast with seared Hudson Valley foie gras, Himel likes Domaine Anne Gros & Jean-Paul Tollot’s “Fontanilles” from Minervois in France’s Languedoc-Roussillon wine region. Crispy braised pork shank with warm sweet potato salad and a seasonal berry barbecue sauce calls for an elegant Mauritson Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, Himel says. “The zin embodies blueberry and raspberry fruit with cocoa powder, a hint of vanilla subtle spice and soft, integrated tannins,” he says. Himel also recommends Northstar, a medium-bodied wine with plum and other dark fruit from Washington’s Columbia Valley. At Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse, the most popular dish on the menu is the house filet, which is topped with flash-fried oysters and served with creamed spinach, Pontalba potatoes and bearnaise. Himel selects Chakana Malbec from Lujan de Cuyo in Argentina’s Mendoza province. “The wine has a meaty character with subtle spice, blue and black fruit and soft tannins,” Himel says. Bourbon House calls for wines to go with fried seafood platters including shrimp, oysters and catfish. Himel recommends either of two white wine styles: the rich, texured buttery style found in Lioco Chardonnay from Sonoma County or the Ramey Platt
www.bestofneworleans.com | 2014 Wine Guide
arry Himel began his career with the Dickie Brennan Restaurant Group as a server at Palace Cafe. In 15 years, he’s risen to the job of beverage director at Brennan’s four French Quarter restaurants and has become a certified sommelier. At each restaurant, Himel creates wine lists to match menu offerings with both high- and low-end options. With the array of different offerings at the restaurants, he’s had plenty of experience pairing wines with traditional and contemporary Creole dishes. At Tableau, opened adjacent to Le Petit Theatre du Vieux Carre, eggplant batons are a popular family-style starter. It’s a simple dish of lightly fried aubergine sticks dusted with Creole-spiced powdered sugar. As an accompaniment, Himel recommends an uncomplicated, quaffable Italian white wine, Falesco Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone. The wine is a blend of trebbiano, malvasia and roscetto, and Himel says it “has nice acidity to cut through the fat component.” He also suggests a French Alsatian white, Albert Boxler pinot gris. “The Boxler has the boldness and enough body to balance with the weight of the dish,” he says. “When it comes to pairing wine with food, there are many diverse elements to consider, but the similarity of the dish weight and the wine weight is one of the most basic prerequisites,” he says. Both wines also go well with grilled eggplant rounds, salads with eggplant croutons or eggplant Parmigiana, Himel says. One crowd-pleasing dish that many people prepare at home is crabmeat ravigote. At the restaurant, he pairs it with Emile Beranger Pouilly-Fuisse from France. ”It’s an affordable Chardonnay with apple and pear character and some richness to complement the richness of the sauce,” he says. A challenging dish to match is traditional turtle soup with sherry. Himel says he’d pair it with a glass of sherry. “We have several (options) by the glass, but I would suggest La Cigarrera Manzanilla, Sanlucar de Barrameda,” he says. “Sherries are the stepchild of the wine family,” he says. “They’re amazing, unappreciated and pair well with so many foods.” For those who prefer wine with the soup, he recommends a glass of sparkling wine or Champagne, such as Nicolas Feuillatte. Sauvignon blanc is one of the best choices to match with salads. For the classic Lyonnaise salad with frisee lettuce, caramelized onion, fingerling potatoes and bacon topped with a poached egg, Himel selects Domaine Vacheron Sancerre from
Vineyard from Sonoma Coast. The other style features bright acidity, minerality and stone fruit and is embodied by Chateau du Valmer Vouvray. Himel says the Vouvray goes well with boiled seafood. At Antoine’s Restaurant, sommelier Matthew Ousset helps guests choose wines to drink with its traditional Creole dishes, and he oversees a large wine cellar. Ousset began his career at the restaurant as a busboy 33 years ago, and worked his way up to waiter and now wine and beverage manager. For seafood gumbo, Ousset selects Trimbach Riesling. “I’m also fond of the crisp Austrian Hermann Moser Gruner Veltliner Karmeliterberg, Kremstal with the gumbo,” he adds, explaining that it balances gumbo’s smokiness, spice and herbs. Oysters Rockefeller, created at Antoine’s in 1899, go with Louis Latour Meursault, Ousset says. He also recommends Chateau de l’Hyverniere, de Sevre et Maine, which is often paired with oyster dishes. Ousset changes direction for Antoine’s famous oysters a la Foch, which features fried oysters on foie gras-buttered toast with Colbert sauce. He recommends Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir — or Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling for those who prefer a white wine. With shrimp remoulade, Ousset selects the Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone blanc with its blend of viongier and southern Rhone white varietals, offering citrus zest, some minerality and white pepper. German Monchhof Robert Eymael Estate Riesling is Ousset’s choice to pair with escargots a la Bourguignonne. The fruity, spicy and acid-balanced wine works well with the garlic, parsley, herbs and butter. Crabmeat au gratin calls for Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Chassange-Montrachet, says Ousset, who likes the wine’s brightness and lemon peel and dried apple character. “I am also a fan of the more affordable Saint-Veran Domaine de la Croix Senaillet from the Maconnais,” he says, citing its citrus and mineral notes. A longstanding simple favorite are Antoine’s pommes de terre soufflees, fried, puffed potatoes. What does Ousset suggest? “Champagne, of course,” Ousset says. He recommends Henriot Brut Souverain, Nicolas Feuillatte Brut or Piper Heidsieck. Although many classic Creole dishes are seafood based and often pair best with white wines, Antoine’s serves dishes that call for red wines. Rare steak and red Bordeaux wines are a classic combination, and those wines can be costly. But there are affordable options. Ousset suggests pairing beef entrees, particularly the Delmonico center-cut rib-eye steak with Grand Bateau, a Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot from Chateau Beychevelle, which Antoine’s offers for $35.
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EATING AND DRINKING FOR A GOOD CAUSE
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