Juicebox out and about spring summer 2016 by Gary Alake Riley

THE LIBERATION ISSUE THE LIBERATION ISSUE

www.ruthmilliam.com

lucy treadwel 6

WILLIAM WILDE

CONT ENTS 10

12 EDITORS LETTER MEET THE TEAM 13 NEWS 14 ORIGINAL AND PUNK 16 PUNK PARTY 22 KINK 32 NUDE AWAKENING 40 48 DISSECT DEBBIE HARRY DISSECT IGGY POP 50 LOCK ‘N’ ROLL 52 EXIST TO RESIST 64 SEEING RED 66 DIY UR OWN ZINE 76 PINCESS PUNK 80 94 TORI WEST INTERVIEW

MEET THE TEAM!

REBECCA: FEATURE WRITER

APHER NADIA: PHOTOGR

BECKIE: GRA PHIC DESIGN ER, SUB EDITOR .

IC DESIGNER, GEORGY: GRAPH OR. assistant EDIT

cara: illustrator

ITOR eloise: ED

NEWS PROTEST: 8 JULY, LONDON Fight the [NUCLEAR] power! With the Kick Nuclear and Japanese Against Nuclear UK organized event, ‘No More Fukushimas!’. It is a weekly vigil, which has taken place since August 2012, in opposition of the use of nuclear power and projects following the 2011 Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster. Protesters will gather outside the Japanese Embassy from 10:00am until 12:30pm. If you would like to be a part of it call: 020 7607 2302 or visit: www.januk.org

PROTEST: 26 NOVEMBER, LONDON Join Joe Corré, the son of designer Vivienne Westwood and ex-Sex Pistols manager Malcom McClaren, in setting his £5 million collection of punk pieces and memorabilia alight. After deeming the movement ‘dead’, Corré intends to reignite the spirit of punk once more at the birthplace of Punk, Camden. The event will coincide with the anniversary of the the Sex Pistols debut song ‘Anarchy in the UK’, which to most signified the birth of punk. Specifics are unconfirmed but watch this space: http://punk.london/event/joe-corre-burns-his-punk-stuff/

Exhibition: ONGOING UNTIL 12 MARCH 2017, LONDON If you love Agent Provocateur or lingerie in general, you will definitely not want to miss Undressed: A brief history of underwear. You will have the chance to see underwear design at its best and at its most scandalous from the 18th century to the present day. Issues like gender, sex, morality and the ‘fashionable ideal’ are explored, in this tantalizing exhibition. The exhibition is currently showing at the V&A Museum. For more, visit: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/ undressed-a-brief-history-of-underwear Exhibition: 15/20 – 31 JULY, LA Visit ‘Robert Mapplethorpe: The Perfect Medium’ - a two part, two museum exhibition which will be held at by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) and Getty Museum this month. The exhibition will cover the work of controversial photographer Robert Mapplethorpe from still life to the underground BDSM. The exhibition will contain Mapplethorpe’s most sensitive and controversial pieces, from his work with flowers to his work on the underground BDSM scene at the time. Described as a ‘ruined cupid’, by Fran Lebowitz, and once the boyfriend of Patti Smith, the man has impacted numerous others so ‘Robert Mapplethorpe: The Perfect Medium’ is a must see. After its time here, the exhibition will move to the Musee des Beaux-Arts de Montreal and the Art Gallery of New South Wales in Sydney. For more go to: http://mapplethorpe.la/

Exhibition: ONGOING UNTIL 2 OCTOBER, LONDON As part of Punk London, the British Library presents Punk ‘1976-78’, a free exhibition showcasing the early days of the movement. On display there will be a range of fanzines, flyers, recordings and record sleeves from the British Library’s collection as well as rare archived material from Liverpool John Moores University. This is an amazing chance to see the origins of a movement that still underlines the lives and cultures of many so don’t miss out: http://www.bl.uk/events/punk-1976-78

Event: 9-10 JULY, LONDON It has been 40 years since the Ramones seminal gig at the Roundhouse on July 4 1976, where The Clash and Sex Pistols stormed their dressing room. To mark the occasion, the Camden venue are holding the Punk Weekender – a two-day festival event fueled by a combination of music and the spoken word. The Punk Weekender will no doubt succeed in channeling the same energy of the original event and there is is no doubt that it may even be able to add to it. If you weren’t around back then, make sure you are this time.

Event: AUGUST, LONDON For a month, the British Film Institute (BFI) Southbank will be screening a series of films by the film director, DJ, musician, Dan Letts. The season of films will look at areas of Punk, like diversity and acceptance, that have strengthened the movement yet often get overlooked. Within the exciting selection of films, which will feature contributions from key commentators, will be a mix of documentary and archive footage highlighting the ties between the Jamaican music scene and punk. The BFI Punk Season is something not to be missed. For more information on the upcoming screenings visit: http://www.bfi.org.uk/punk

Event: 26 SEPTEMBER - 3 APRIL 2017, PITTSBURGH Pittsburgh Art and Lectures: Ten Evenings returns with another set of ten of the world’s most celebrated authors. Amongst them will be Patti Smith, who will be discussing the creative processes and thinking behind her national best selling book M Train. She is one in a series of conversational lectures that will take place between September and April next year. The lecture focused on Patti Smith will be held on Monday 10 October - all talks will begin at 7:30, ticket prices can be found: http://pittsburghlectures.org/ten-evenings/

Music: 4-7 AUGUST, BLACKPOOL The festival season is well and truly underway and with Rebellion festival yet to come, it definitely seems to be the case of saving the best ‘til last. For three days Rebellion Festival will take place, with names like Gnarwolves and Dag Nasty headlining and that’s just a couple of the names on the bill this year along with the Buzzcocks. For more information, visit: www.rebellionfestivals.com

Music: 30 JUNE, PARIS Join Arizonan Quintet Destruction Unit on tour. Not only have they released six albums by themselves, before signing with Sacred Bones, their music carries themes of transcendence and evolution both outside the self and within it – fitting for this issue. However, they by no means produce a sound as upbeat as that sounds. With three guitarists they deliver something more than an interesting riff or hook, they create a sound that deserves a closer listen. What better way to do so by seeing them play live: http://dunit.ascetism.com/

Illustrations by Cara Kealy words by Rebecca SMALL Nguyen

O RIGINAL A nd P unk Luke Morgan and Theresa Hodges are two people who know what it means to live life on their own terms. Both around during the chaos that exploded in 1976, the pair make no secret of how much the movement has influenced them. Now, they share their insights. Words by Rebecca Small Nguyen

Rebecca talks to Theresa, an old-school punk alive during the seventies and eighties. When did you know punk meant something to you? “There was no big moment, I got into it in the late 70’s, early 80’s so I was around 15 or 16. it was gradual, my sister Andy would bring music and send tapes over from the UK.” Theresa and her family moved to Spain in 1976 while her sister stayed in the UK, with an aunt, to finish her GCSE’s. “So we became familiar with the music that was coming out in the UK at the time. No one had heard of any of the music we were listening to in Spain – we moved just after Francisco Franco died and there were only three or four of us Brits at school and just the fact that we were foreign by default made us weirdos. Me and Andy would occasionally club together our hard earned money to buy a copy of the NME and then we’d all pour over it and fight over who’d keep it. I guess I got into it because of Andy – punk had both an inherited and imported meaning which stemmed from her – she was the catalyst of it all.” How did you know punk was something was special? “It was instinctive. Me and my friends always listened to the lyrics, and the way the people looked you’d never seen anything like it - people like the Ramones, clad in skinny jeans and black leather, you didn’t see that in Spain. The only people in black leather were the Guardia Civil and they had guns and truncheons and scary things.” What does it mean to you? “Doing your own thing without being an arsehole in the process. For me it was never about any given look. Post-Franco Catholic Spain was so conservative that almost anything was mind-blowing but I liked this controversial element - the reactions it sparked. The music was more important though, that and the attitude that went with it.” What aspects of punk do you see in today’s world? “I’d argue that anyone who shows a glimmer of individuality has the spirit of punk - be that in how they dress, how they think, how they behave or the art / music they produce. Grayson manages to be all of these things at once. Fantastic guy.” How relevant is the punk movement to today’s generation? “It is always relevant for the young to reinvent the world, and to challenge and question prevailing conventional wisdom. I can’t wait for the young to take over.” w Is it dead/dying? “No; I think it’s evolving. That is what art, fashion, music, culture does. There will always be pockets of it going on and there will always be people finding ways to shock the establishment. Punk will always be around in the people that make you sit up and take notice.” How do you incorporate it into your art/life? “Again, I tend to obey the rules that keep me alive, and challenge those designed to control me or my children. In terms of art, clay in all its guises inspires me. I love working with my hands and the fact that it is expressive and different each time. I find its transformative ability fascinating especially as it goes through four different stages – to me, that there are no limits. I suppose you could say that there are aspects of punk in the process as each time you are hand-building something and you never know how it’s going to turn out but you risk it anyway.” What’s on your playlist right now? “Where to begin? No Coldplay, definitely NO Coldplay. Very, very, dull. Other than that, it pretty much goes from A - Z. I lie - it goes from A to V. I’m ancient. My alarm is set to play Spanish Bombs - or Levi Stubbs’ Tears. The Jam always make me smile, anything from the 2-Tone label will make me dance - as will The Go! Team. I’m loving Grimes at the moment. Nick Cave is never far from my ears, and sometimes I just need Shirley Bassey to belt out some tunes.” What is your idea of the ultimate playlist? “TheresaMix - compiled by my breeding partner for my 50th. It’s the one that goes from A - V - beginning with Abba (yes, I know, It’s a nod to my younger sister. She was obsessed with them when we were kids. I could have killed her at the time, of course) and ending with Violent Femmes. Over 100 tracks. Set to shuffle, and I’m amused for hours. If I were forced to reduce it to, say, ten, it would include New York Girls (Bellowhead), Levi Stubbs’ Tears (Billy Bragg), Spanish Bombs (The Clash), Brimful of Asha (Cornershop), Yoshimi Battles the Pink Robots (The Flaming Lips), Knickerbocker (Fujiya & Miyagi), Tainted Love (Soft Cell version), something by The Jam (don’t make me decide…), Oblivion (Grimes), Emma (Hot Chocolate), Coma Girl (Joe Strummer and his jolly Mescaleros), Debaser (Pixies), Whangie Stomp (The Positively Testcard), Jezahel (Shirley Bassey), A Message to you Rudy (The Specials), Uncertain Smile (The The), Horchata (Vampire Weekend)

"I DIDN'T REALISE WE COULD ALL BECOME WHATEVER WE WANT" 20

When did punk start meaning something to you? i remember seeing the famous bill grundy pistols interview in 76 but didn’t realise we could all become whatever we want until leaving my job and going to art college in 78

What does it mean to you? it was a form of freedom from from a corporate society

What aspects of punk do you see in todays world? i still see many influences in fashion and music

How relevant is the punk movement/mentality to todays generation/youth culture? very relevant but not often embraced

How relevant is it to your culture/generation? (the people that grew up around it) again very relevant but sadly often forgotten with age and responsibilities

Is it dead/dying? - Explain it happened and that fact can never die, main stream interest in it comes and goes

How do you incorporate it into your art/life? i still take encouragement from the ‘can do’ attitude and can do my way

Are there any creative minds or pieces that you are obsessed with right now? (directors, films and…) Is there a person or piece of work that has inspired you most? lifting me higher by Jackie Wilson so ultimate play list would be one that makes Jackie and The Clash welcome i don’t think obsessed with or can say “the most” but for both questions here are a few of my favourite things > The Clash “The only band that matters”, American Graffiti, Harley J Earl, Morag Myerscough, Elvis, Lewis Leathers, George Cox Creepers, telecasters, pre 88 triumph bonnevilles

What’s on your playlist right now? The Clash are on most of my playlists /What is your idea of the ultimate playlist? Fav band The Clash, Fav song Your love keeps

PUNK PARTY photography: Nadia kamara Styling/direction: eloise gendry-hearn set/assistance: rebecca small nguyen models: Neomie he, Tiana esparon, ed mannion

Neomie wears dress Forever 21, leather trousers topshop,jewelery worn throughout models own

neomie wears jumper urban outfitters AND ed wears tee shirt topman

tiana wears jumpsuit topshop

ed wears jacket stylists own

tiana wears dress topshop

K I N K EXPLORING FETISH AND DESIRE, PHOTOGRAPHER KARO RUTKOWKSA CREATES PROVOCATIVE AND CHALLENGING WORKS. THE LIBERATION ISSUE CELEBRATES FREEDOM OF MIND, BODY AND SPIRIT AND BEING SEXUALLY FREE IS ONE OF THE GREATEST FREEDOMS WE HAVE TODAY. WHILST AROUND THE WORLD PEOPLE’S SEXUALITY IS STILL BEING OPRESSED, IN THE UK WE ARE LUCKY ENOUGH TO BE ABLE TO LOVE WHO WE WANT, HOW WE WANT. THESE MAGES ARE A REPRESENTATION OF THIS. ACCEPTING THAT THERE IS NO TRUE ‘NORMAL’ FOR ANYTHING IS THE FIRST STEP IN COMPLETE ACCEPTANCE OF ALL. TOO OFTEN PEOPLE WILL LABEL THINGS THEY DO NOT UNDERSTAND AS ABNORMAL RATHER THAT ATTEMPT TO UNDERSTAND. SELF-EXPRESSION COMES IN MANY FORMS, SEX IS JUST ONE OF THESE FORMS BUT IS STILL CONSIDERED TABOO. KARO’S IMAGES ARE STRIKING AND PORTRAY THE NORMALITY OF THE FETISH WORLD. WORDS BY ELOISE GENDRY-HEARN

NUDE AWAKENING Photography Hannah Jackson Direction Elli Weir Styling Eloise Gendry-Hearn Model Rose Wilson

Model wears Dress Missguided

Rose wears slip Ann Summers

Rose wears dress Wolford

Rose wears leather jacket Topshop Unique

H R E A I H B B BIE B Y E R D R A H Y R B A B H E E I B R B R E A D H dissecting DebBIE Harry

Debbie Harry is a bonafide legend, still making waves at 70. Her style remains and she knows how to shock people. Her dress-up doll can be adorned with animal print and leather for an atomic look.

IGG Y IGG P O Y PO P IGG I G Y PO P IGG IG Y PO IGG P I G YP dissecting IGGY POP

Iggy Pop is an icon around the world, known for his cross-dressing, gender-bending, theatrical personality and style. The punk spirit flows through him with a loud ‘fuckyou’ attitude. Dress him up ready to rock with our paper-doll cut-out.

LOCK ‘N’ ROLL TRACING PUNK BACK TO IT’S ORINGINS IN Camden LOCK Photography: Nadia Kamara Direction and stylist: Rebecca small Nguyen Models: George Eyre AND Cara Kealy

George Wears denim jacket, jeans, socks all Rokit Vintage, shoes Doctor Martens

Cara wears shirt Rokit Vintage

Cara wears jeans models own shoes Doctor Martens

George wears jeans models own, vest, belt, shoes Rokit Cara wears jeans, vest and wears shirt Rokit Vintage

George and Cara wear vest and belt from Rokie Vintage

George wears tee shirt, jeans and jacket Rokit Vintage

exist to resist Forty (some may argue fifty) years ago in London, youth culture was turned on its head with the arrival of punk. This year London celebrates this landmark with an ongoing string of events - but it would seem that not everyone will be partaking in the celebrations.

ince the beginning, Punk has been a movement destined to cause friction. So to even ask whether Punk is dead takes guts. With Joe Corré, the son of punk monarchs Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, preparing to set his £5 million punk collection alight this November, accompanied by what will be a substantial turn out in support, it seems now is the perfect time to re-evaluate the position of the movement. Fittingly it was the Queen’s approval of the year long celebrations that sparked this renewal in rebellion, and with backing from the Mayor of London, Boris Johnson, as well as the Heritage Lottery Fund it has felt like the punches have just kept on coming. Joe Corré summed it up by stating “the Queen giving 2016, the year of punk, her official blessing is the most frightening thing I’ve ever heard. Talk about alternative and punk culture being appropriated by the mainstream. Rather than a movement for change, punk has become like a fucking museum piece or a tribute act”. In all fairness he makes a few valid points. In the past,

fashion and deadened by the marketed notion that to be punk is to be ‘cool’ - which was never what it was about. It was a movement filled with bands giving any source of authority the middle finger yet now the head of country is in support of them. In more ways than one, punk has become conventional - rehashed repeatedly in fashion and deadened by the marketed notion that to be punk is to be ‘cool’ - which was never what it was about. Even Camden, thought to be the birthplace of punk and home to the alternative, is overridden by tourists, families and high-street chains. Somewhere along the line, Punk has become less a form of rebellion and more of a money cow for the entertainment and tourism industry. For this, the resentment toward the exploitation of a ‘genuine moment of political and social rupture’ by such sedating industries is understandable - but is it the final nail in punk’s coffin? Maybe. Those who question the existence of punk do so without recognizing its place overseas and its ability to adapt.

the ways of Punk in the West but

“punk has become like a fucking museum piece or a tribute act”. the mere mention of the P-word would conjure up reactions of uncertainty, disgust, even fear yet today society does not hold the same response, it has become desensitized to it all. It was a movement filled with bands giving any source of authority the middle finger yet now the head of country is in support of them. It was a movement filled with bands giving any source of authority the middle finger yet now the head of country is in support of them. In more ways than one, punk has become conventional - rehashed repeatedly in

. In 2014 documentary Yangon Calling: Punk in Myanmar, by Alexander Dluzak was released and it was clear the sound, style and attitude was just beginning to have an impact outside of Europe. Just like London in 1976, bands like No U Turn and Rebel Riot have formed in Myanmar, their pur-

pose is not to entertain but to express their ‘hatred for authority’ and provoke a reaction in a city where ‘poverty is the governments way of keeping you down and controlling you’.

ith punk material like records and magazines being imported by sailors at the request of a small few, there were approximately 200 punks in the

Punk is perceived as a threat city at the time of filming. Two years later and the Punk scene in Myanmar is still very much an underground one, as it is in many other censored areas of the world. In Islamic countries like Indonesia authorities and religious fundamentalists have been known to persecute those who identify with the movement as Punk is perceived as a threat. Nonetheless, whatever the constraints the irrepressible spirit of punk is without a doubt prevailing . In terms of the existence of punk in todays music, sadly there are not many artist making anything remotely like Talking Heads or Siouxsie Sioux or even anyone who stands for something similar. Punk today often exists alongside other genres but this is not a novel idea. It has been around since the early days with bands like Bad Brains taking influence from Reggae and The Clash combining it with funk, as far as adaptability goes not much has actually changed. What has changed is their motivations. As the world around us has evolved so have the causes for rebellion. In addition to censorship and poverty, there is economic recession, austerity measures, third-wave feminism, climate change and capitalism. Even though our societies are more multicultural than ever, there are still issues with race - and it is with these issues that punk remains fueled by.

Alien Kulture were the start of Muslim punk in 1979, rises in extremism and islamophobia have seen it resurface and built upon as seen with the emergence of the Taquacore genre which, following the inspiration of Michael Muhammad Knight’s 2003 novel The Taquacores, is now a subgenre of punk which addresses Islamic culture and interpretation.

egarding music there are also a few who equate the lack of Punk on the radio to be the final end of the movement, but this point is a contradiction in itself. Punk was never intended to make it onto mainstream radio. To be played on the radio defeated the point of being punk in the first place. Besides, if you were the Sex Pistols, you were more likely to get your record banned, by the BBC, WH Smiths and Woolworths too if you remember it. We also live in a world where records belong to a multitude of genres so it could even be argued that most of the time people do not even realize they are listening to it. Even in cases of completely different music styles there is still evidence of cold, hard punk ethics. Moreover, Punk is not just about fighting outward systems, whether it is contesting opinion or making local and global political injustices known to the masses - it comes in different forms. In the US, the original birthplace of Punk, groups like Ho99o9 incorporate Hip Hop into their records and continue to create create just to provoke those that oppose them while letlive bring in aspects of metal in order to ‘advance.

the conversation’ on societal affairs. In these instances, punk has been adapted to suit the moment and, with all due respect to Corr, it does not sound like anyonehas ‘given up the chase it seems more like chasing something different. Admittedly,–

it is hard to see a future for punk when its icons now lead respectable lives. Lesley Woods (singer/guitar for Au Pairs) is now an immigration barrister, Jordan (aka Pamela Rooke, a punk icon) is a veterinary nurse and Steve Ignorant (lead singer for Crass) has been a lifeboatman for around nine years now. When you look a little closer, it becomes clear that their original punk intentions of trying to attain meaning and make a difference remain true.

Punk was never intended to make it onto mainstream radio. It is this underlying need to speak up and do something that maintains the legacy of and punk and its icons to this day. It could also be the reason why ‘appropriation’ of punk culture takes place - because everybody can relate to fighting for something, whether it is internally or externally. In some strange way, this ‘appropriation’ could be a generation revising the definition of punk to suit their situation, even if it does not tick the ‘conventionally punk’ box. Who knows, this ‘revised’ meaning may not even involve punk as we know it at all – with Dance Tunnel closing in August and club

Punk will never die as there will always be something to fight against In essence, Punk will never die as there will always be something to fight against. In todays age, like a lot of things, it will not always be clear who or what is punk and it will not always be expressed through specific music or clothing. The modern punk will not have to listen to the archetypal music or fall into the archetypal image, as it has never solely been about these things, but what they will have is a DIY attitude and a willingness to speak their mind, act however and live with the consequences. They will understand that it is about having a questioning nature, taking chances and not accepting the status quo - maybe even expanding the means of their expression to the world of art, photography and film. Or not. Doctor, actress, vagabond – to put it in the simple terms of 1998 American film SLC Punk! ‘punks are still everywhere, but a lot of them like myself wear their camouflage on a daily basis so they’re a little harder to spot you can do a lot more damage within the system than you can outside of it’. Now, is that ‘punk’ enough for you.

culture in London rapidly vanishing maybe a punk revival will stem from a generation of clubbers and students who are ready to ‘explode

Words by Rebecca small nguyen

the title and words of the Stranglers 1977 single ‘something better change’ have never rung truer

SEEING RED Photography Hanina Pinnick Direction/Styling Eloise Gendry-Hearn Model Nina Balstrup

Nina wears tee shirt Sex Skateboards

Nina wears tee shirt Aries Arise

Nina wears tee shirt Vivienne Westwood, trousers Forever 21

Nina wears tee shirt Vivienne Westwood, trousers Topshop Unique

Nina wears jumpsuit ASOS

D.I.Y UR OWN ZINE

Originating in the late 70’s and early 80’s zines were an integral part of both the punk and Riot Grrrl movements, a totem of counter-culture. These flimsy, photocopied booklets seemed throwaway however they held the thoughts and ideas of a generation with burgeoning liberation. They were often created by bands and groups of friends to spread the word of gigs, protests and events but ended up being a way to spread radical new ideas through communities when an older generation were still disapproving. After the first-wave of feminism in the 60’s and the punks of the 70’s and 80’s Riot Grrrls took over where the others had left off. Bikini Kill, fronted by feminist hero Kathleen Hanna, created multiple zines and even a Bikini Kill colouring book. Often tongue-in-cheek and satirical, these zines were a new way to talk about big issues and relieve the oppression many still felt. The idea of a zine was to be inclusive and free, allowing anyone of any gender, race, sexuality or religion to contribute and collaborate. The ideology of collaboration was strong in counter-culture and these small publications helped artists, musicians, writers, poets and illustrators alike to come together to create their own paper protests. Where glossies and gossip mags are all too common today, the production of fanzines slowed after the 90’s however there has been a real revival in the last couple of years. The idea that fashion, art and culture can come together with specific core values underpinning them all has been embraced by millennials and a younger generation who understand the ways freedom is still restricted today. Through 2015 and 2016 small publications such as Polyester Zine, Mushpit, Cuntry Living and O.O.M.K Zine have all popped up, run by small groups of girls driven by firm beliefs as a retaliation to the glossy, fake standards of big-scale magazines. The beauty of zines is the low-cost and ease with which they can be created. Originally a few copies of a zine would be created and distributed to people in the community with influence who would then photocopy copies and pass them on until everyone was photocopying and passing them around. Again the collaborative nature meant that zines relied on people coming together to spread the word. In the D.I.Y spirit of the liberation issue we’ve created our Juicebox guide to creating your own fanzine in 9 easy steps.

Step 1- GRAB YER MATES The first step is relatively easy as long as you’re not a recluse,, but hey if you are this could be a good way to meet some new people! Find your friends, get together and think of a name for your zine. Your arty mates who do illustration, photography and literature are going to be your biggest asset. Step 2- WHAT’S THE PROBLEM? Next, decide what issues you want to tackle in your zine. Rent too high? Tuition fees? The never-ending cycle of throw-away fashion? What grinds your gears? What HAS to be changed? This is the fuel for your zine-making fire. Step 3- GET A CLUE Take a look at some zines that already exist, Mushpit, O.O.M.K and Don’t Get Culty are a good place to start. There’s no one right way to make a zine and these guys will definitely leave you inspired. Step 4- CHEAP N CHEERFUL If you don’t have a printer/photocopier at home, (which tbh is fair because have you seen how much ink cartridges cost?!!?!!?) then get down to your local library and find out where theirs is. Chances are a black and white A4 copy costs around 10p, what bargain. Step 5- STRIKE A POSE Get your camera/phone/notebook and pen and get images together to illustrate what you want to say. Step 6- WHAT YOU SAYIN? Find local artists and ask to include their work, go to open-mic nights around the city and find young voices who’s poetry will fit your mag. Short stories, articles, reviews and opinion-pieces are all zine worthy and it’s a chance to vent. Step 7- STICKY BUSINESS Once you’ve collected everything you want to include, cut it up, stick it together and collage your zine in to existence. If you want to be fancy you can make it as a digital document, but the principle is still the same. Step 8- COPY CAT Once you’ve got one copy made you’re ready to go. Photocopy away, fold, staple and lovingly create copies of your new mag. You created a small publication! LOOK AT YOU GO! Step 9- GET AROUND Now you’re ready to go. Get out and about, gigs, museums, magazine shops are all good places to try and discreetly hide copies for people to find. Give them to your mates and get them to give them to theirs, before you know it you’ll be a zine queen (or king).

PRINCESS PUNK

PHOTOGRAPHY NADIA KAMARA DIRECTION & FASHION ELOISE GENDRY-HEARN STYLING REBECCA NGUYEN & CARA KEALY ASSISTANCE BECKIE HART & GEORGY BINNS MODEL RENE THEOPANE

TEE SHIRT MUSHPIT / JACKET ZARA / JEANS TOPSHOP UNIQUE / SUNGLASSES ASOS / JEWELLERY MODELS OWN

TEE SHIRT MODELS OWN / JACKET BEYOND RETRO / TROUSERS TOPSHOP / SHOES DOCTOR MARTENS

/ TEE SHIRT VINTAGE /

BRALET MONKI / SHIRT TOPSHOP / DUNGAREES VINTAGE

JACKET URBAN OUTFITTERS / TOP VINATGE / CHOKER STYLISTS OWN

TEE SHIRT MODELS OWN / DRESS TOPSHOP / TIGHTS WOLFORD / SHOES DOCTOR MARTENS / SUNGLASSES ASOS

VEST VINTAGE / DENIM TOP ZARA / SKIRT & OTHER STORIES

TEE SHIRT VINTAGE / TIGHTS WOLFORD / JEANS TOPSHOP

TEE SHIRT MODELS OWN /DRESS URBAN OUTFITTERS / NECKLACE TOPSHOP

.. . w o o Kn

Get T

TORI WEST

From diy zines of the nineties to the glossies of today print media has changed a lot. creator of bricks magazine, disaster zine and social editor at i-d, Tori West talks to Juicebox about the changing face of printed media. What brought you to create Bricks magazine and Disaster Zine? Was it to fulfill a creative need or fill a gap in the market? I wouldn’t say it was for market value, more to keep me sane. My favourite part of uni was being able to collaborate with others, I was really scared of losing that when I graduated. I see both publications are a creative outlet, I just hope they inspire and motivate others as much as they do me. When you were creating Bricks and Disaster Zine were you working with a large group of people of just a few and how did you choose who to work with? Bricks is such a huge project, it couldn’t exist without all of the amazing emerging creatives we collaborate with. There’s five of us arranging the print, four editors including myself and our graphic designer, we all met at university and share the same passion for independent publishing, we agree that

magazines should be used to promote change and motive younger generations, we’re bored of commercial magazines that focus on selling, if you have a platform, teach. Disaster zine is a much smaller project that me and my best friend Josh started. It’s our very own agony aunt. What magazines/zines have had most impact on you throughout your life? Did they inform the creation of Bricks? I wouldn’t necessarily suggest that a particular magazine made an impact. Don’t get me wrong, there’s amazing publications out there that truly inspire me, but It’s more the people throughout my life that informed it. Do you agree that print is a dying media or does it still have a place where it can thrive? I think the commercial aspect of print is dying such as tabloids and celebrity endorsed content. Peo-

don’t want to feel like they’ve been sold something, everyone understands how marketing works now. ple

Personally, I love having the physical copies of magazines and going out each month to buy them and can never throw them away, are there any magazines that you collect or hoard? I’m terrible for it, I buy as many indie publications and information as I can afford.

team do an amazing job with their zine Zine-making originated when the punk movement happened and there’s been a revival of zine-culture right now, what do you think ‘punk’ is today? I believe the whole print is dead theory motivated and gave birth to a brand new generation of independent editors. Punks not dead and neither is print.

Who do you aspire to be like? I don’t aspire to be like anyone, I’ve finally discovered how to be like myself. How did you originally get into media and publications, had you always wanted to work at a magazine?

Follow Tori, Bricks Magazine and Disaster Zine @toriwest @bricks_magazine @disaster.zine

Honestly, I couldn’t imagine doing anything else.

What other small zines should people keep an eye out for at the moment? Well, we do have another Disaster Zine coming up. I’ll recommend Laybeard through and through, the Polyester

get

liberated

Listen to The Liberation Issue play: list at: