A celebration of beer for the haus-bound brau-hound.

WORDS

Daniel Murphy

Slowly, incrementally, life is returning to something resembling normal. Canada is feverishly pumping out double-shots like an overworked barista, and at time of writing the promise of global travel appears to inch ever-closer, so close I can taste it. It has lovely, complex malt character, intriguing hop notes, fantastic balance … While most of us have already mentally checked out of our repetitious, mundane existences in anticipation of distant adventures, unfortunately the doors are officially closed on Munich’s Oktoberfest in 2021. In mid-July, government officials cancelled the 211-year-old festival citing that the pandemic wasn’t yet sufficiently under control to allow people from all over the world to gather in close quarters. But never fear! Some of Germany’s finest beers are available to enjoy right here in Victoria, and local breweries are also stepping up to match them.

Munich Gold, Hacker-Pschorr (Munich Lager)

Simply mentioning this beer fills me with anxiety. Those of us who have fallen for its distinct, intangible yeast character and chewy, morish malt notes, were almost brought to tears when its supply was interrupted at the height of 2020 lockdowns. (In fact, scratch the word “almost.”) When it did reappear, it was snapped up by the flat. Understandably, I’m hesitant to increase local demand. But, on the other hand, this beer is a true revelation. It would be a grave mistake to interpret its drinkability as simplicity. It is deeply complex, highly expressive while bewilderingly refined. In winemaking, Pinot Noir is often called the “heartbreak grape,” as the subtleness of the fruit allows no room for error on the part of the winemaker. A well-crafted lager is the brewing equivalent of Pinot Noir, and this iteration is faultless.

YYJ Pilsner, Swans Brewery (West Coast Pilsener)

This is not a Munich-style lager, nor is it intended to be. But it is a unique, characterful beer that reflects the essence of its location. Swans’ lager program is one of the most underrated brewing initiatives in Victoria. They are perhaps the only brewery in town that isn’t hamstrung by their building’s limited footprint, allowing them to age many beers for far longer than what’s considered “normal” by local brewing standards. After 12 months (!) in tank, the YYJ Pilsener’s hop notes have mellowed profoundly, turning floral and perfumy, while still maintaining a bite on the tongue after each sip. Malt notes are present, but happily take a back seat, in keeping with the style. It’s a great start to your exploration of Swan’s many wellcrafted lagers. Hefe-Weissbier, Paulaner (Munich Wheat Beer)

Wheat (weizen in German) contributes a fairly innocuous flavour profile in a beer’s mash—it’s primarily used for its high protein content, which gives a creamy mouthfeel and a brilliant, dense head of foam. When coupled with a tasty, estery yeast, the mild wheat flavour works well in tandem with—and even exaggerates— naturally occurring citrus, fruit, and spice notes. The beauty of Paulaner’s Weissbier is that it’s an incredibly smooth, well-rounded experience from sip to swallow. The yeast and wheat marry perfectly, while the mild bitterness supports the recipe only enough to keep the overall structure from falling apart. It’s truly a world-class example of the style.

Beachcomber, Vancouver Island Brewing (Hefeweizen)

Maybe it’s the cloudiness, or the estery, bready flavours that have kept German wheat beers on the periphery of North America’s most popular beer styles, but I’ve never really understood the logic. They taste like summer, and who doesn’t need a little summer, even in the depths of winter? Vancouver Island Brewery’s Beachcomber amplifies all the eminently drinkable aspects of this German mainstay, but with a lighter body and more sessionable carbonation than its forebears. All the characteristics that define the original are right there, compacted into a highly approachable, light, citrusy gem of a beer. The German lineage in the VI brewhouse may also have played a hand in this one.

Dunkel Weissbier, Erdinger (Dunkelweizen)

What happens when a Hefeweizen’s dense creaminess and mild spiciness combine with roasted caramel malt notes and lingering toffee sweetness? It may sound heavy—but it isn’t. It’s actually a masterful interplay of light and darkness: bright fruit flavours remain intact while the bready notes are complemented by a dark toastiness. Coffee and bananas? Somehow, it just works. Perfectly. You won’t find a better example of the style than this Dunkelweizen from Erdinger Weissbier, and if you do, contact me immediately.

Creepy Uncle, Moon Brewery (Dunkel)

Turns out there isn’t a brewery in Victoria that regularly brews a Dunkelweizen (att: marketing departments). But considering that the Dunkelweizen style itself is a Frankenstein-like combination of a dark lager and a Hefeweizen, then Moon’s Creepy Uncle is the dark lager “limb” of that monster. Balancing the delicate yeast and hop notes of a mild lager against the potential acridity of roasted malt is not an easy task. But perhaps no other brewery is better suited to handle it, with a German-built brewhouse that utilizes traditional decoction mash processes (it’s interesting, I swear—look it up!) and a deep respect for traditional German beer styles. The idea that dark beers can’t be as easy-drinking and approachable as their brilliant golden counterparts is a myth that’s been long debunked, thanks to exceptional examples such as this one.

Seeing the world’s most iconic beer celebration cancelled (again) is a total downer, but our abundance of world-class local and international brews sure takes the edge off. And celebrating the wonder of beer doesn’t need to be limited to a couple of weeks in late September/October, but it’s as good an excuse as any. Let’s raise a glass in hopes that the beer halls of Munich will overflow with joyous mayhem again next year. Prost!