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Acknowledgment First and foremost, I extend my heartiest gratitude to the team at Pratyush Shankar and Associates. Kruti Patel, Amruta Gajjar and Pavani Joshi have helped me understand Vadodara and helped me finalise my subjects and content through thorough discussion and debate. A Master Urban Sketcher herself, Kruti gave her precious crit to help develop my drawings better. I also had the opportunity to work on CityLabs alongside Vaibhavi Dave that formed the first steps towards creating this book, and it was her that suggested the very name of this compilation, ‘Walk With Me’. All this came from me working as an intern for Pratyush Shankar, who showered me with his guidance and ideas at every step. His studio makes for an environment that motivates one to strive to be better constantly, and my growth under his guidance is unparalleled. I would also extend my gratitude to my friend and brother, Nishant Arya, for always being there for me. I also can’t thank Aviral Singh, another brother, enough, for his iPad helped me create and move ahead with this book very smoothly. I would like to thank Ipsita Choudhury for helping me with the writing of the book, and last but not the least, my parents who have always supported my dreams and let me be whoever I wanted to be.
Walk
with me Gaurav Patel
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content Vadodara Walk 1
Preface 4 5
The Centenary Methodist Church
The story of this book starts when I landed an internship opportunity under
Band Stand
Pratyush Shankar in December 2019. I had only heard of Vadodara a couple
Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery
of times before this, and it was just a small city to me. On reaching Vadodara,
Sayaji baug Health Museum
Walk 2
the Sayaji Baug was my first stop. I was mesmerised. A friend I was with walked 15
Station Gate
Sayaji Baug Gallery, I couldn’t help but look in awe at the beautiful exposed
Shri Sayaji Tower
brick buildings. I decided to sketch the same that very moment, and the next day
Maharajah SayajiRao University
Walk 3
I was back there. I met a character artist that day, and he had lived in Vadodara
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Lehripura gate
to visit and draw. I would sketch on-site as I wanted to get the correct sense of
Champaner gate
its sizes and proportions of these heritage buildings, something that is rarely
Pani gate
found. I did not restrict myself to drawing, I did an intensive reading on these
Gendi gate
structures. My work soon turned to look like a journey of a young architecture
Walk 4
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Kala Bhawan
Kirti Stambh Khanderao Market Nayay Mandir
Qutub-ud-din tomb
student, curious about the city. Architecture isn’t limited to the building and its history, I dived deep into reading about the history of Vadodara and its journey
Lakshami Villas Palace gate
Raopura tower
all his life. I fell in love with the city while visiting the Baroda Museum with him. Curious to know more and more, every weekend I set my eyes on a building
Mandvi gate
Worth a Visit
me through the city, telling me all about it. Going past the Baroda Museum and
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to becoming the cultural capital of Gujarat.
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Walk 1
Fatehgunj to Kala Ghoda circle
The Centenary Methodist Church Bull Circle Band Stand Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery Sayaji baug Health Museum
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The Centenary Methodist Church
2 Bull Circle 3 Band Stand 4 Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery 5 Sayaji baug Health Museum
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The Centenary Methodist Church ,
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Fathegunj
Walking through Fatehgunj, one cannot miss this building for it stands out so significantly. Every
Popularly known as the Red Church, the Centenary Methodist Church was constructed in 1902
year, the church celebrates festivals like Christmas, Easter, Good Friday. The surrounding roads
in Fatehgunj in the residency area of the city. The site where the present building of the Church
between Fatehgunj and the Bull circle are closed for vehicles during celebrations for people to
stands now had an old church built in the 1880s. Later this building was expanded and made into
spill out on the streets with no vehicular traffic to interfere. It reflects the true spirit of a carnival.
the present building with a donation of 500 silver coins from Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III.
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The Band Stand,
Sayaji baug
Sayaji Baug was also known as Kamati Baug because it was near a village called Kamatipura,
When inside the structure, one realizes that it is a product of complex joinery of very slender
situated on the river Vishwamitra. It was built by Sayajirao III in 1879 and covers an area of 113
steel members. During the day it is a shelter for homeless people to sleep and relax. As the day
acres of land and is the largest garden of Western India.
progresses, in the evening one can find college students sitting and relaxing. On the weekends
Bandstand is the Finest part of the park with green carpets of lawns interspersed by paths Greco-
fine arts students visit for the purpose of sketching, mostly the Greco-Roman sculptures.
Roman and other sculptures placed on pedestals at intervals.
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Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery, Sayaji baug
The museum was designed by architects Major Mant and Robert Chisholm and was completed in
The Museum sits in the Sayaji Baug. It also can be spotted from the arterial street flanking
1894. It was designed to resemble the Victoria and Albert Museum of London. The double-storey
Sayaji Baug. The museum has 28 galleries representing collections from Japan, China, Nepal,
Baroda Museum is one of the most prominent examples of the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture
Europe, Tibet, Egypt, Greece, Rome and a gallery solely dedicated to the Gaekwads. The vast
in India. The style is evident in the use of elements such as chhatris, torans and cusped arches,
collection represents disciplines such as Archaeology, History, Fine Arts, Industrial Arts, Ethnology,
while the ground floor of the museum reflects European influence.
Zoology, Botany, Anthropology, Geology, Geography, Paleontology, and Osteology. Some of the
The building also employs various other elements to keep the building well lit and ventilated. The
most famous artefacts from the museum are probably the Egyptian Mummy or the Egypt Gallery
roof of the building integrates innovative skylights and several punctures in its structure that the
and a huge blue whale skeleton.
building is well lit throughout the day.
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Health Museum,
Sayaji baug
In a white bungalow across the Baroda Museum, housed the Health Museum. Built during
There is an amphitheatre right in front of this building where you’ll mostly come across fine
1878/79 for Maharaja Sayajiraa Gaekvad lll. It was used by him while visiting the park. It is said
arts students sketching and painting, it is a nice place to interact with artists. Other than that
that earlier, this building was given to the Parsi community for hosting events. Built in the Victorian
sometimes there are students practising for their performances on the stage of the amphitheatre.
style, the building has wooden flooring and a staircase along with a small terrace and wrought
One can only experience the surroundings, as the building itself is now closed. It provides an
iron embellishments. Eventually, the health museum was closed down and the pavilion is now
aesthetic backdrop to all the public activities that happen around it.
occasionally used for organizing workshops.
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Walk 2
Railway Station to MS Univercity
Station Gate Shri Sayaji Tower Maharaja SayajiRao Univercity
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Station Gate
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Shri Sayaji Tower
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Maharaja SayajiRao Univercity
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Back gate, Baroda Station
This is the rear gate of the Baroda Railway station. It has been built recently and the ornamental
Although this Gate doesn’t get as much footfall as the front gate of the station, this area is known
elements on the elevation are inspired by the Heritage building in the National Academy of Indian
for the food complex across the street of this Gate.
Railways campus.
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Shri Sayaji Clock Tower
Tucked in the small strip of garden across the Faculty of Arts of the MSU, is a silent clock tower
It is said that it is the only clock which has the numbers of the dial written in the ‘Devanagari’
called the Shri Sayaji Tower. The tower was erected during the years 1920-21
script.
The tower is almost 40 feet high and emerges from a small one story structure. The tower displays
Other than that like a hull of the ship it cuts the road coming from the Kala Ghoda circle. Though
stone facade adorned with tall openings with stone facade adorned with tall opening with stone
the site of the tower is really small still it has a lot of trees and the tower seems to be emerging
jails. The tower is divided in almost four portions, the bottom most portion of this has a door to
from out of them. One side across the road there are street food shops while on the opposite side
enter the tower. The portion above this has the above mentioned stone jaalis. The next portion has
is the boundary wall of the MS University.
small stone balconies, protruding out from all four sides of the tower. These cantilevered balconies also display stone jails in the form of parapets. Just above the balconies are the clocks, also on all the four sides of the tower.
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Old building across The Clock tower
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This old piece of architecture might not catch your eyes, even though you’ll find yourself eating vada pao from the street food cart right in-front of this building. The sketch represents how an old ordinary building which might belong to just a common person is still holding on to its foundations right next to tall commercial buildings. Ironically you’ll find more people eating cheese vada pao form the cart near this building than the expensive cafe in these commercial buildings
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Maharaja Sayajirao University Vadodara
Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda, established as Baroda College in 1881 by Sayajirao III.
This marvel of a building runs along the road from The Clock tower to Kala Ghoda circle. Walking
The imposing 144-foot-high dome atop the Faculty of Arts building is the second largest masonry
on the footpath along the boundary wall of the campus is the best way to admire the building
dome in India.
for the outside.
The twin domes system also enables the natural ventilation of the dome & details of apertures in
Other than that MSU has an open campus. Visitors can simply go inside the campus from the gate
the dome have been cleverly worked out to exit the rain- water. The dome is the second largest
near the clock tower and experience the building in all its glory.
dome in India and largest for any institutional building and towers to a height of 144 feet. There are 6 other domes in this building in the 2 wings that define courtyards etc. The main entrance to the building is a triple arch of stone capped with finials borrowing the architectural vocabulary of Buddhist Chaitya. Another Buddhist vocabulary is the use of carved elephants as column capitals. The building has been put on a plinth/ platform of about 4-5 meters. The entire complex is done in red brick and tiled bands.
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Walk 3
Old city area of Vadodara
Lehripura gate Mandvi gate Champaner gate Pani gate Gendi gate
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Lehripura gate
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Mandvi gate
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Champaner gate
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Pani gate
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Gendi gate
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Sur sagar lake
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Central library
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Lehripura Gate
Situated amid noisy and colorful bustling markets, the Lehripura Darwaja, is the most ornamented
This gate is a Threshold between the fairly open and spacious Sur sagar lake area and the dense
gate out of the four gates of the old city. Built in 1558, it served as the gateway to the old city
Old city vicinity. Through the openings of the gate you can get the glimpse of the Mandvi gate .
and is situated near the Nyay Mandir. It was part of the western ramparts of the now extinct fort known as Kila-e-Daulatabad, built by Khalil Khan in the16th century. The gate is named Lehripura
Right next to the gate there is the Mangal bazaar where people can buy all sorts of things from
Darwaja after the community of coppersmiths residing in the area who were known as the Laharis.
clothes to everyday home stuff to inexpensive watches and goggles. While you are there you can
The word Laheri in Leheripura is a variant of the original word Lahari.
also try the famous Pyarelal Kachorivala.
Still standing gloriously in the city and unlike it’s disappeared companion, the fort wall,
this
gateway along with the other three gateways still remind the people of the city of its Pre-Gaekwad past.
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Mandvi Gate
The word ‘Mandvi’ is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘mandapa’ meaning a pillared haII. The
As soon as you cross the Lehripura Gate, right away one can see the Mandvi Gate just standing a
structure, giving the old city its identity, was built by the sultan only as a double storeyed pavilion.
few 100 meters across. Like the other gates it doesn’t feel that massive as it has slender columns
The upper two stories were added by the Gaekwads. The square-shaped pavilion features three
as the support system. Also, it’s the tallest of all the gates.
bold arched openings on each of its four sides, and is decorated with niches of various sizes and shapes. It is believed that it was used for collecting toll from merchants and traders and was also used to make announcements for the city. Later during 1856 AD. Ganpatrao Gaekwad added the upper two stories along with a clock that sits on the topmost story.
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Champaner Gate
Champaner Gate, serves as the Northern gateway to the old city of Baroda and leads one in and out of the tightly knit fabric and the colorful markets of the old city area The gate faces northwards towards Champaner and thus the Champaner Darwaja. It was named Champaner also because the Champaner was captured by Sultan Mehmud Begada (Father of Khalil Khan). This was among the few gates from where Elephants could pass.
Just like the other gates this gate also has massive Islamic arched gates as a means of entry. This gate also has the guard rooms on its inner side and a room with a sloping roof on the top. The room on the top has 3 windows on both sides which may have been used to keep an eye on the surroundings. Along with the other four gates this gate was also restored recently.
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Pani Gate
The name Pani Gate translates to Water gate is said to have been given because of the presence of the Ajab and Raje lakes, which supplied water to the city, in the vicinity. The gateway has massive Islamic/Ogee arches along with the lotus motif embellishing it’s spaniards . It also has bands carved stone motifs running along all the sides of the structure. Apart from this it is also decorated using two small jharokha-like elements that flank the sides of the arch. It also has guard rooms tucked on its inner portion which also provide access to the upper level of the gateway.
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Gendi Gate
Rhinos (called Gendas in Gujarati) were kept near this gate, thus the name Gendi Gate, says the book ‘Vadodara Ek Adhyayan’ by archaeologist R. N. Mehta. Documents from Year 1804 and 1822 refer to Gendi gate as Baranpore nu darwajo (gate) because it led to Baranpura locality in the walled city.
Common with the other gateways, this also the Islamic/Ogee arched entry point. Unlike the other gates this gate has two stories of rooms on the top with the topmost level covered with a double pitched hipped roof. It is said that this sloping roof was added during the Maratha period. Both these levels of rooms have windows as a means of a lookout on the neighboring areas. Along with the other 3 gates this gate was also restored recently.
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Walk 4
Lakshmi Villas Palace to Nayay Mandir
Kala Bhawan Lakshami Villas Palace gate Kirti Stambh Khanderao Market Nayay Mandir
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Kala bhavan
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Lakshmi Villas palace gate
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Kirti Stambh
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Kanderao market
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Nayay Mandi
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Sur sagar lake
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Faculty of Performing arts
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Kala bhawan Faculty of Technology and Engineering -MSU
The Building: Spread over an area of 2200 square meter, the original “E” shaped palace is now only a portion of the current building ( extensions were made to the palace over the years). Built in the Indo-Saracenic style, the double storied building’s entrance is marked by an elaborated “porte cochere” and a tower-like structure. The Indo-Saracenic style’s main features are reflected in the several big and small onion domes capping the “chattris” and the central tower. The domes
After being run from the Senapati Bhawan for a short period, the Institute was gifted with a
are further embellished with indigenous elements such as finials and the row of petal-like elements
majestic palatial building by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III in the year 1892, This building was
defining the base of the dome.
a palace, whose construction started in the year 1884, just opposite to the Lakshmi Vilas Palace.
The element used extensively in the structure, giving it the regional flavor is the cusped arch
It is said that this Palace was commissioned by Maharaja for the crown prince Pratapsinghrao
that dot the passageways of the building. Apart from this, motifs of elements such as the lotus,
Gaekwad. In 1891, the Palace was ready. But after residing in the palace for a short period, in
elephants, flowers and crowns embellish the building defining the style of the building even further.
1892, it was given to the Institute on the request of the principal of the Institute.
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Lakshmi Villas Palace gate
Built in 1890 as the private residence of Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III, Laxmi Vilas Palace is
Lakshmi Vilas palace is a must visit in Vadodara. Mainly the places to visit inside the vicinity is
indeed one of the grandest structures in India. Created in Indo-Saracenic style, it is a magnificent
the palace and the Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum building. It still is a private property of the
hybrid of elements from Hindu, Mughal and Gothic architectural forms with the use of domes,
royal family so only the areas open to tourists are accessible. Many activities related to cricket
minarets and arches. Built in 1890, Robert Fellows Chisholm, the designer-architect, took twelve
usually take place at the compound adjacent to the Motibaug Palace. Golf course, swimming
years to build this grand building. Sprawled over an area of 700 acres, the palace is believed to
pool, clubhouse, gym and Moti Bagh Cricket Ground, the famous museum and the current office
be nearly four times the size of Buckingham Palace. It’s one of largest palace ever built
of Baroda Cricket Association is also a part of the palace.
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Kirti stambh
It was built in 1935 to commemorate the 60 years rule of Sayajirao gaekwad III. It stands tall with a lion perched at its top and facing eastwards. The lion perched at the top of Kirti Stambh has his rear part facing the Lakshmi vilas Palace Gate. This lion, with it’s rear facing the Palace gate, marks the Maharaja’s departure from his Kingdom and Luxurious life. Also, according to the Hindu philosophy, traveling towards the east is considered to be a way of achieving “salvation: or “Moksha” which is again indicated by the eastards facing lion of the Kirti Stambh.
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If one examines closely, the countenance of the lion appears a bit old/ aged and fatigued. The Maharaja wanted to portray himself though this aging lion. It is one of the busiest areas of the city as a bus depot is located in a 100 meters area.
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Khanderao Market
It is a sprawling market complex erected by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III on the occasion of
The complex houses the fruit and vegetable market (wholesale and retail), a flower market along
the silver jubilee celebrations of his reign in 1906. It was presented as a gift to the municipality
with the offices of the Vadodara Municipal Corporation.
and named after the previous ruler and his late adoptive father Maharaja Khanderao Gaekwad II.
Framed behind a huge landscaped area with a marble statue of Maharaja Khanderao Gaekwad II,
Built in Indo-Saracenic style, the building was the last project of the famed architect Robert
the complex is actually like a precinct with the build structures enclosing a huge court in the center.
Chisholm before returning to England. The main facade of the building is embellished with “Nagara style Shikharas”, small “chattris”, “toranas” and an imposing gateway. position is topped with a “Bengali” sloping roof, flanked with “shikharas”.
The central
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Nayay Mandir
Nayay Mandir, built in 1896, now houses a district court.
Initially built to house a vegetable market, the structure was commissioned by Maharaja Sayajirao
Planned around two huge courtyards, the double storied structure occupies a massive area of
Gaekwad III in the memory of his late queen & wife, Maharani Chimnabai l. But upon completion
about 6000 square meters. The building has been designed to be almost symmetrical along the
of the building works, it was decided to use it as Town HaII. After a few years of being used as the
central axis, with a huge hall in the center. Built with brick, stone, wood and steel the building’s
town hall, it was converted to an imperial court.
facade has been treated with Italian ceramic tiles of ocher yellow and brick red.
Used for musical concerts and lectures in its early days and later converted to the court. Being
Most of the windows and entrance doors of the buildings have been inscribed in different types
the supreme court pre-independence it came to be an important building and was used to deliver
of arches such as the segmental, semi circular and ogee arches highlighted in white color. The
lectures by eminent people such as Baba Saheb Ambedkar, Aurobindo Ghosh, and Patrick Geddes
top portion of the building has been embellished with big and small “chattris”(cupolas), pilasters,
as well. Baroda’s last ruler Pratapsinhrao Gaekwad gave his final speech from the building’s
finials and towering elements. It also displays beautiful stone and wrought iron ‘jalis’. The front
balcony before ascending to the Indian union.
facade of the building has a huge clock fit on its top.
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Worth a visit
Raopura tower Qutub-ud-din’s tomb
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Raopura Tower
The Maharani Chimnabai Tower, commonly known as Raopura tower is one of the major landmarks of the city. Erected in 1896, built in the Indo-Saracenic style, it is a five storied structure that still dominates the skyline of the city. The lower level houses a narrow spiral staircase that leads to the upper levels. These lower levels along with the fourth level display exposed brick facade. The lower three levels have cusped arched openings decorated with fine stucco work on each side. The fourth level features a huge clock fitted on all four sides. This level is demarcated by a narrow overhanging balcony with stone “Jali” parapet, supported on stone brackets. The last level is octagonal and is plastered in a shade of yellow sandstone. This level is embellished with “Jharokhas’ ‘ windows on four out of its eight sides and is topped with a “shikhar” like element with a finial on top.
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It stands in a densely populated part of the city, flanked by commercial shops on three sides. Unlike the other clock towers it does not have a plot with boundaries, instead it has buildings adjacent to it. In the olden times, the clock used to play a melodious tune every 15 minutes and provided accessibility to time to all the four directions of the city. The tower was also a major stop for the horse-drawn trams, used as a mode of public transport in the city during the olden days.
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Qutub-uddin’s Tomb
The tomb is a monumental, octagonal structure that stands in the centre of what might have been
Tucked away in a quiet corner of the city is the mausoleum/Hazira of Qutb-ud-din Muhammad
a ‘Char Bagh’ or a planned Persian Garden. It is built on an octagonal plinth and may have been
Khan, which is one of the few reminders of the Pre-Gaekwad era of Baroda. The mausoleum or
inspired from some of its predecessors like the Garden Tombs built by the Lodi Dynasty, the Tomb
the Hazira as It is locally known, contains the graves of Qutb-Ud-Din Muhammad Khan who was
of Sher Shah Suri or those of Adham Khan and Maham Anga.
the tutor of Salim Jehangir, the son & successor of Akbar. In all, the secluded location of the tomb
Each side of the high platform features five arched niches out of which the central niche acts as
provides a serene experience away from the busy roads of the city. The tomb gives a truly divine
a gateway to the upper level of the platform from the four cardinal directions. AII the sides of the
experience when visited in the early mornings or at the evenings when it is filled with the golden
octagonal structure has an imposing ogee/islamic arch, the massiveness of which is brought down
sunlight filtering in through the jalis, casting beautiful patterns on the walls.
to human scale with niches and arched openings of smaller size. These openings are adorned by stone ‘jalis’ with geometric patterns.
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Thank you