22 minute read
Destinations: Shoryudo Region
Riding the Rising Dragon
Text by SHAHIDA SAKERI Images by SHAHIDA SAKERI AND RESPECTIVE PRODUCT OWNERS
When I first heard that I would head to the Shoryudo region in Japan, the first thing that I did was to text my friend who lives in that country and bombarded her with a long list of questions. What are the highlights there? I knew I needed some trusted insights to discover what do the locals love, and you know, just to avoid missing out on great things that the region could offer (#fomo). Her reply was rather simple: “food, plenty of lip-smacking food than your tummy can handle.”
I was already sold on the idea of losing myself behind a mountain of delicious seasonal delicacies, but after several more text-exchanges, I learned that Shoryudo (meaning ‘Rising Dragon Region’ in Japanese due to its shape on the map, also simply known as Central Japan), has a lot more to offer. For one, the region is home to exceptional historical and sacred sites in the country, and second, the dense ancient forests along other spectacular natural beauties make for gorgeous views to behold. And on top of these, the entire region is remarkably accessible.
In fact, to make exploring easy, there are multiple travel passes that visitors can make use depending on budget, focus areas and length of stay. One such example is the Takayama-Hokuriku Area Tourist Pass by JR-Central and JR-West, which I eventually used for my trip in Shoryudo. The price of the pass starts from ¥14,000 per person for five consecutive days, and brings travellers across the region with unlimited rides on JR trains, buses and Hokuriku Shinkansen along the way. Besides, as pass holder, I took advantage of booking reserved seats on JR limited express trains for free up to four times, which proved not only economical but also convenient to secure seats during peak time. Read on to find out how I maximised my pass to experience Central Japan in five days (all train and bus rides throughout this trip are covered by the Takayama-Hokuriku Pass, unless stated otherwise).
A beautiful Geisha strolling along the old street.
Photo by Tianshu Liu on Unsplash
Important points regarding TakayamaHokuriku Area Tourist Pass:
The route covered by the JR Takayama-Hokuriku Area Tourist Pass.
» This pass is only for foreign visitors from abroad under the ‘Temporary Visitor’ entry status.
» It covers four main prefectures: Gifu, Toyama, Ishikawa and Fukui. It also connects travellers between two international getaways: Chubu Centrair International Airport and Kansai International Airport.
» Book the pass online or with locally certified travel agents prior to your trip to enjoy more savings. The 5-day pass costs ¥14,000 per adult and ¥7,000 per child when you buy in advance; otherwise, walk-in prices cost ¥15,000 per adult and ¥7,500 per child at certain designated stations along the route.
» Pass holder may reserve seats on the Limited Express ‘Wide View Hida’, Limited Express ‘Thunderbird’ and Limited Express ‘Shirasagi’. Reserved seats on the ‘Haruka Airport Express’ and the Hokuriku Shinkansen line (Kagayaki, Hakutaka, Tsurugi), however, require additional fees.
» For more information on this pass, visit http:// touristpass.jp
Gifu Station.
AICHI PREFECTURE
Chubu Centrair International Airport, Tokoname My entry point to the country this time was via Centrair (Central Japan International Airport), located on an artificial island in Ise Bay, south of Nagoya city. The airport has recently won ‘The World’s Best Regional Airport’ Award and ranked as the seventh best airport in the world in 2018 by Skytrax. Hence, travellers can expect excellent service and top-notch facilities when flying from/to here. I personally experienced a smooth immigration procedure, including fast baggage claim, during arrival. But what I loved most about the airport is the fact that it is human-scale, and perfectly designed in a way that save travellers’ time and energy. And, if weather permits, head outside to an outdoor observation deck for sweeping views of the action on the runways. Food options here are abundant, including halal meals, and travellers can even savour Nagoya’s signature dish, hitsumabushi (grilled eel on top of rice) without leaving the airport at Maruya Honten Restaurant. The airport also functions as the hub of transportation, linking travellers to other parts of the region via trains, buses and high-speed boats. Other facilities include tourist information centre, laundry service counter, prayer room, and Sky Town Shopping Centre featuring western and traditional Japanese themes. Interestingly, the airport is also known as Ninja Airport because Chubu, particularly Mie Prefecture, is popular as the birthplace of ninja. Don’t be surprised if you spot a couple of ninjas at the airport!
Flight of Dreams, Tokoname
The colourful light show at Flight of Dreams.
The city of Nagoya is highly-claimed as the country’s most sophisticated manufacturing base for aerospace industry, producing over 50% of aircraft components, including the wings of Boeing 787 Dreamliner. Therefore, it is only natural that a complex fully dedicated to aviation is built close to the city. Aviation enthusiasts should visit ‘Flight of Dreams’ and enjoy nine hands-on features, including flight simulator and DIY airplane design session while taking a glimpse of the Everett Factory, which happens to be one of the biggest aircraft assembly factories in the world. Be sure that you also witness the spectacular light show comprising the projection of beautiful images onto the huge ZA001 – the first 787 test model donated by Boeing – sitting proudly at the centre of the premises. If you’re hungry, head straight to Seattle Terrace that boasts popular outlets originated from Seattle such as Starbucks, while at the same time paying tribute to Boeing’s birthplace. The admission fees to the airplane and aviation exhibits are ¥1,200 for adults and ¥800 for children.
Tip: To start using the Takayama-Hokuriku Area Tourist Pass, travellers need to take the Centrair airport train on Meitetsu Line to get to the nearest station connected to the JR lines. You can head up to Meitetsu Kanayama Station on the Limited Express “μ-SKY” train by paying the additional ¥1,170 on a single trip. From there, your pass is valid to any desired destination as long as it is covered in the route and connected by JR lines. Having said these, however, most pass holders prefer making Gifu as their first stopover.
GIFU PREFECTURE
Gifu Castle, Gifu
First built in 1201, the castle changed hand from one powerful feudal lord to another up until the 17 th century. Though it was severely damaged by fire in 1943, the castle was later reconstructed and converted into a historical museum featuring an observation platform that boasts spectacular view of the nearby Nagara River. Fit travellers could opt to hike along the four available trails for about one hour and a half to reach the top of Mount Kinka where the castle is located – those who gasp at the word ‘hike’ can instead embark on cable cars from the foot of the mountain up to the castle in merely three minutes.
Access: Take a bus with the sign “N” that heads to Nagara Bridge from the Gifu Station and stop at Gifu Koen Rekishi Hakubutsukan-mae bus stop at the foot of Mount Kinka. Taxi is also available at the station.
Kawaramachi, Gifu
Stroll along this beautiful quiet neighbourhood brimming with age-old craft shops, including traditional Japanese restaurants and cafes selling local pastries and delicacies like the ayu fish (river fish) products. Ayu fish is particularly popular here due to the long-standing practice of ukai (cormorant) fishing that originated over 1,300 years ago. In this tradition, usho fishermen would play with the light from the torches in the dark of the night to draw the fish closer to the boat and catch them using trained cormorants. It is amazing to witness this method of fishing and Nagara River is one of the only two places in Japan where you can see such practice. Nagara River Ukai Fishing festival is held from 11 May until 15 October every year.
Access: Take a bus with the sign “N” that heads to Nagara Bridge from the Gifu Station and stop at the Nagarabashi bus stop. The street is only five minutes’ walk from the foot of Mount Kinka. Taxi is also available at the station.
Shirakawa-go, Ogimachi
The view of Ogimachi village at Shirakawa-go.
Photo by Sam Lee on Unsplash
Shirakawa-go (ml.shirakawa-go.org/en/) in winter to me is likened to the feel-good movies I love to watch during holidays. It is romantic and sparks joy the moment I stepped into the villages. The area’s mountainous landscapes are gorgeous and in January, when snowfall is the heaviest, the villages turn into fairy-tale land blanketed in white, creating postcardperfect view that travellers around the world come to see. The area is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as it features unique farmhouses with thatched and steep roofs called Gassho-Zukuri that has been in existence since the 11th century. Besides multiple viewing points, there is also a museum on site for visitors to learn more about the area’s history.
Access: Take the Nouhi Bus from Takayama Bus Centre to Shirakawa-go bus stop. Also, travellers may go straight to Takaoka from Shirakawa-go bus stop on the Kaetsunou Bus. It is advisable to book seats in advance because both buses tend to get full during peak season.
Sanmachi, Takayama
An example of the beautifully-preserved old house at Sanmachi Street, Takayama.
Dubbed as ‘Little Kyoto’, Sanmachi (www. hida.jp/english) is an old merchant town filled with attractive gems minus the dizzying crowd. Expect to see line after line of traditional black wooden townhouses made of the finest cypress and cedar with latticed doors and windows still firmly intact, while incense aroma fills up the street; it’s easy to lose yourself in time here and get carried away with the glorious Edo period charm. You should seek exquisite folk crafts such as woodblock printing tools, which the area is famous for, or if you’re feeling hungry, grab a bite of various confections sold in the shops, including daifuku (glutinous rice cake stuffed with sweet filling). Cultural buffs would also enjoy the Fujii Folk Art Gallery and the Hida Folk Museum located within the area. The operational hours typically start from 9:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m.
Access: 10-minute walk from Takayama station.
The retro packaging of the medicine sold at Ikedaya Yasubei Shoten.
Sarubobo Doll Workshop, Takayama
The cute red Sarubobo dolls symbolising luck in marriage.
Back in the days when The Transformers toys were not yet a hit, Sarubobo doll was the toy that grandmothers used to make and present to their grandchildren as gift. It traditionally functioned as an amulet to protect children from bad things happening in their lives. The original colour of the doll is red, symbolising luck in marriage, fertility and childbirth. But as time progresses, more and more colours are available such as blue for career; pink for love; green for good health; and yellow for money. So why not continue the tradition and give the doll as a souvenir to someone you love back home? For personal touch, make it yourself at the workshop in the city. The fee starts at ¥1,300 per person.
Access: 10-minute walk from Takayama station.
EAT Hoba Miso cuisine and Hida Beef
The juicy grilled Hida beef at Suzuya Restaurant.
Trying out the famous Hida beef when in Takayama is a must, as this particular wagyu beef is considered as one of the very best in Japan for its exceptional marbling, especially after it won the 2002 Wagyu Olympics (yes, it does exist). The meat is tender and juicy, best grilled on a slow charcoal fire on top of fragrant magnolia leaf (hoba in Japanese) with shiitake mushrooms and perfectly seasoned miso gravy. For Muslim-friendly options, Suzuya Restaurant (suzuyatakayama.ec-net.jp) led by the friendly Chef Teppei serves halal-certified beef in his menu.
Access: 10-15 minutes’ walk from Takayama station.
STAY at Hotel Associa Takayama Resort, Takayama
The stunning view of the Northern Alps from the outdoor bath at Hotel Associa Takayama Resort.
What better way to spend crisp, chilly winter days other than at a cosy countryside retreat equipped with its own hot spring facilities? In fact, the open-baths offers unparalleled views of the Northern Alps, making it especially popular for couples seeking romantic and secluded stay. All 290 rooms at Hotel Associa Takayama Resort (www.associa.com) are tastefully designed and available in either Western or Japanese style layout. Dining options are abundant, but my personal favourite spot is the Restaurant ROSIERE that serves exceptional gastronomic fares, including Takayama’s signature dishes.
Access: There is a complimentary shuttle bus to and from the Takayama Station.
TOYAMA PREFECTURE
Zuiryū-ji, Takaoka
This is a historical temple, originally built to mourn the death of Takaoka’s founder, Maeda Toshinaga. Its design is heavily influenced by Chinese architectural style during Kamakura Period, when Zen practice became popular among the samurai elites of the time. The symmetrical complex comprises multiple architectural gems that are now considered as nationally important cultural properties such as the Butsuden Hall (Buddhist sanctum) and Hatto Hall (sermon hall) that reflect the style of early Edo Period temples. In February, April and August, Zuiryūji is lit up with luminous lights, hence open to visitors at night. For a more immersive experience, travellers can join in the meditation session with the monks here. The entrance fees are ¥500 for adults, ¥200 for junior and senior high school students, and ¥100 for elementary school students.
Access: 15 to 20 minutes’ walk from Shin-Takaoka Station.
Tip: The tramcar, or ‘shiden’ as it is fondly called by the locals, is the easiest way to explore Toyama city. There are three lines serving the city and each ride costs ¥200 per person. International travellers can get complimentary tickets for ‘PORTRAM’ and ‘CENTRAM’ tramcars that run through city centre and Iwase area. These tickets are available at the hotel front desk, so please check with the receptionist for its availability.
Ikedaya Yasubei Shoten, Toyama
Established since 1936, this shop (www.hangontan.co.jp/sp/en/) is popular across the country as the dispenser of reliable herbal medicines. It still uses traditional medicine cabinet to store herbal products, and some of its famous remedies still come in unique retro packaging. Travellers can also try their hands on the meticulous process of making traditional pills using old wooden apparatus.
Access: Three-minute walk from Nishicho Station.
Toyama Glass Art Museum, Toyama
Designed by Kengo Kuma (the architect responsible for the new National Stadium that will host the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games), the architecture of this museum (toyama-glass-artmuseum.jp/en/) is an art of its own. The beautiful space sees Kengo ditches overcrowded decorations and lets the innate qualities of materials such as cedar boards, glasses and mirrors to define the look. The permanent exhibitions are on the fourth and sixth floors, featuring impressive works by both Japanese and international glass artists such as Dale Chihuly. But if you’re looking for a quiet place to sit and get lost behind a book, the Toyama City Public Library is also housed within the building. The entrance fee to enter the permanent exhibition section is ¥200 per person.
Access: Take tram line number 3 and alight at Grandplaza-mae for ¥200 yen. The museum is a short walk from the stop.
Fugan Canal Kansui Park, Toyama
There is a Starbucks outlet here dubbed as ‘the world’s most beautiful Starbucks’ after it won first prize at the 2018 Store Design Awards. The glass-walled design affords unobstructed views of the nature-rich park (www.kansui-park.jp) and Tenmon-kyo Bridge. Comes night time, the park glows with luminous decorations perfect for a romantic stroll.
Access: 10 minutes’ walk from the North Gate of Toyama Station.
EAT Kaiseki Style
Kaiseki refers to quintessential Japanese haute cuisine experience featuring a series of exquisite dishes made from the freshest and often seasonal ingredients, presented in meticulous and artful display. A trip to Japan wouldn’t be complete without experiencing this refined dining. One such place where epicureans could enjoy such indulgence is at Yasuragian (yasuragian.net), an intimate restaurant that comes with its own private garden.
Access: 15-minute walk from the main entrance of Zuiryū-ji.
EAT Seasonal Winter Buri
When you have fresh fish, why cook it? Many Japanese swear by the fresh seafood offerings from Toyama Bay, thanks to its unique topography and proximity between the fishing grounds and the port. One particular star from the bay is the seasonal winter buri (yellowtail fish) that possesses a perfect layer of fat, giving it a melt-in-the mouth texture and wonderful flavour. Takaoka Kakinosyo Restaurant serves freshly-caught buri together with other mouth-watering catches from the ocean, all prepped and presented in exquisite kaiseki manner – dining in would truly feel like a regal affair.
Access: 15-minute walk from Takaoka Station.
EAT at Izakaya
Izakaya means Japanese style pub, where locals usually flock after work. However, instead of having individual meals, patrons usually go for shared dishes such as tamagoyaki (omelette blocks), sashimi, grilled fish, meat dishes, and salads. Alcohol menu would usually be extensive, but non-drinkers could always opt for soft-drinks, juices and even nonalcoholic mocktails. Umi no Kami Yama no Kami is one of the popular izakayas in Toyama.
STAY at Samanoko House, Takaoka
This is a guesthouse designed in complete Japanese aesthetics and strong sense of place. The location itself is charming, which is the Kanaya-machi neighbourhood filled with latticed houses and stone streets. There are two types of room styles here: modern western and traditional bed on tatami mat.
Access: 15-minute walk from the North Gate of Toyama Station.
Access: 20-minute walk from Takaoka Station.
STAY at Toyama Onyado Nono, Toyama
The rooms at this hotel (www.hotespa. net/hotels/nono_toyama) are compact yet comfortable and come with private Hinoki bath, giving a nice touch to the stay, especially for guests who are too shy to enjoy the hot springs in public. For those who don’t mind the crowd, there is also a public semi-open-air hot spring bath (separated for men and women) on site.
ISHIKAWA PREFECTURE
Kenroku-en, Kanazawa
The serene view of Kenroku-en.
Named as one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan, this garden (www.pref.ishikawa.jp/siro-niwa/kenrokuen) was constructed in the span of nearly two centuries by the Maeda family. It used to be the outer garden of Kanazawa Castle, and comprises six essential components that make a perfect park according to the Chinese landscape theory: spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and panorama. This is also where visitors can find one of the oldest fountains in the country. The sight changes according to seasons; plum and cherry blossoms dominate in spring, while azaleas and irises blooms the most during early summer. The park radiates in red and orange hues comes fall.
Access: Take 1-3 JR buses at bus stop number 4 at Kanazawa Station. Alternatively, the city’s Loop Bus and Kenrokuen Shuttle Bus also stop at the park from Kanazawa Station, but costs an additional ¥200 per person. There is a one-day Loop buss pass at ¥500 for adults and ¥250 for children.
21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa
A visitor enjoying the ‘Swimming Pool’ installation by Leandro Erlich at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art.
The city is branding itself as a vibrant art hub, and this museum (www.kanazawa21.jp) is a testament to this movement. It was designed by two famous Japanese architects, Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa, and contains several galleries, library, cafe and communal learning spaces, which are all arranged in a puzzling maze. Art aficionados can expect to see impressive artworks by world-renowned artists such as Anish Kapoor. One installation that excited me the most is the ‘Swimming Pool’ by Argentine artist, Leandro Erlich, which allows spectators observe peoples’ behaviour in a space underneath a transparent glass layered by water that is only 10-centimetre deep, giving the illusion that the people standing or moving under the glass are doing so underwater. Entry to the museum is free but to view the temporary exhibitions, travellers need to fork out ¥360 per person. Children can enter the exhibitions for free.
Access: Take 1-3 JR buses at bus stop number 4 at Kanazawa Station. The museum is merely a five-minute walk from Kenroku-en.
Kanazawa Bikazari Asano, Kanazawa
The history of gold leaf production in the city dates back 400 years ago, when then ruler, Lord Toshiie Maeda, encouraged art development. A gold leaf is made by beating gold repetitively over several days into extremely delicate thin sheet.
Today, gold leaf is used in many ‘Kanazawa haku” (nationally designated traditional handicraft), including lacquer ware, skin care and even snacks. Get in touch with your creative side and enrol in a DIY workshop to personalise your own gold leaf souvenir at this atelier (enkanazawa.hakuichi.co.jp/shop).
Access: Take JR buses at Kanazawa Station to Hashibacho Bus Stop.
Higashi Chaya District, Kanazawa
Chaya means an entertainment hub where geishas have been entertaining since Edo period. The largest Chaya in Kanazawa is the Higashi Chaya district and has been designated as the country’s cultural asset. The area is filled with rows of twostorey traditional houses beautifully adorned with bonsai trees. There is a geisha performance held by the Kanazawa City Tourism Association here every Saturday.
Access: Take JR buses at Kanazawa Station to Hashibacho Bus Stop.
Omi-cho Market, Kanazawa
This delicious vanilla-flavoured ice cream with gold leaf would cost ¥300 per cone.
This vibrant fresh food market (ohmicho-ichiba.com/ohmicho) has been serving the city since Edo Period. Today, the market’s offerings have expanded into other fares including clothing, flowers and cookware. Many stalls also give out food samples, so don’t be shy and taste them all! For a full meal, try kaisendon, which is a popular dish comprising a steaming rice bowl topped with fresh sashimi. Ichinokura Restaurant (www. ichi-no-kura.jp) serves extensive kaisendon menu, and they are affordable. Afterwards, be sure to try the gold leaf ice cream from the market – it is absolutely divine!
Access: Take JR buses at Kanazawa Station to Musashigatsuji Bus Stop.
Komatsu Hikiyama Gallery MIYOSSA, Komatsu
Visitors donning the traditional costumes used in kabuki performance.
Kabuki (a traditional Japanese theatre performance) has a long fascinating history, and now is listed as UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. The performers would adorn exquisite costumes and wear elaborate makeup while performing classics with usually dramatic storylines. At MIYOSSA (www. city.komatsu.lg.jp/soshiki/miyossa), visitors get to be part of this legacy by joining several workshops including kabuki makeup, Mihzuki craft-making and Shamisen (three-stringed traditional guitar) for a minimal fee.
Access: 7-minute walk from the west exit of Komatsu Station.
Natadera Temple, Komatsu
The Kondo Keo-den (Central Worship Pavilion) at Natadera Temple.
Considered as a sacred site for the past 1,300 years, many still come to this temple (www.natadera.com/EN) to pray for a fresh start. The main feature, Iwaya Honden, is a prayer space in a cave where devotees come to purify their souls. A walk through the dark passage in the cave symbolises the purification process, and once you emerge from it, you will be cleansed from your sins and reborn as a new person. Nevertheless, this ancient temple stands out aesthetically against dramatic rock hill background; a dedicated platform also affords spectacular view of Mount Hakusan, which remains Natadera’s main object of worship today. The entire vicinity is huge and might take an hour or so to explore completely.
Access: Take the Mountain Route on CANBUS from Kagaonsen Station. The one-day ticket costs ¥1,000 per person, and valid to all destinations along the route.
Kaga Fruits Land, Kaga
The Beni Hoppe (Red Cheeks) strawberries are said to be the sweetest variety in Japan.
Love eating fresh fruits straight from the farm? Then this park (www.furulan. com/eng) is for you, where visitors can experience fruit-picking all year round. Beni Hoppe strawberries are abundant except during summer and fall, when apples and grapes are the main produce. You can also top for the all-you-can-eat experience, which lasts for 30 minutes at ¥1,800 per person.
Access: Take the Sea Route on CANBUS from Kagaonsen Station. The one-day ticket costs ¥1,000 per person, and valid to all destinations along the route.
EAT Kagakanigohan
Omotenashi Restaurant prepares only 10 servings of kagakanigohan set dish per day.
Join in Kaga’s gastronomic culture and taste its finest offering – snow crab or kani in Japanese – prepared in this exuberant haute cuisine meal (www.kagakanigohan.com). The sweet rich taste of the crab is addictive and so memorable that I can still taste it until today. The set lunch comes in elaborate small dishes such as crab sukiyaki, udon, dashi and dessert; there is also lucky charm incorporated in the dining presentation for guests to bring home. Do remember that these sets are in limited number daily, so it is best to book well in advance. Omotenashi Restaurant is one of the best places to go for kagakanigohan meal.
STAY at Yukai Resort Yamashiro Onsen, Kaga
This resort (yukai-r.jp/info/en) defines authentic Japanese hospitality: traditional beds on tatami mat, hot spring, relaxing area with massage facilities, comic room, and arcade centre. Guests may even choose their own yukata design here.
Access: Take taxi from Kagaonsen Station; the journey lasts around 15 minutes.
STAY at Kansai Airport Washington Hotel
Stacked with 502 modern yet comfortable soundproofed guestrooms, this hotel (washington-hotels.jp/ kansai) makes an ideal overnight choice for travellers who want to stay close to the airport. Also, there is a convenient store for guests want to stock up on supplies and essentials.
Access: Take a free shuttle bus to the hotel from Kansai International Airport.
Kansai International Airport
This airport (www.kansai-airport. or.jp) – affectionately known as “KIX” – is the third busiest airport in Japan, serving over 20 million passengers every year. With such traffic, it becomes more user-friendly over the years, with facilities like shower facilities, prayer room, medical facilities, on-site hotels and spas. On top of these, the dining selection is so good that travellers might even pray for a delay! Try Osaka’s signature snack, okonomiyaki, at Botejyu Restaurant (www. facebook.com/botejyu.japan) for local flavour. JR Limited Express Haruka connects travellers between the airport and Tennoji (a station in southern Osaka), Shin-Osaka (the shinkansen station of Osaka) and Kyoto.
Gaya Travel Magazine extends our heartfelt gratitude to JR-West, JR-Central and INFINITY Communications, including the respective tourism boards, for making the writer’s trip in Central Japan smooth sailing.
