Gaya Traveller: Johor

Starting at Zero: A JB Heritage and Food Trail Walkabout

Text & Images by IRNEE NORRIS & IRINA NORRIS

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Do you know what “Kilometre Zero” means?

Honestly we were not aware of the existence of this term, let alone knowing what it was until the year 2012. We were on assignment in Bandung, Indonesia, and we asked our host at the Grand Royal Panghegar Hotel what else is there to see within Bandung’s city centre. “Have you been to our Kilometre Zero?” he asked. And so began our fascination of Kilometre Zero wherever we go travelling.

Kilometre Zero, to put it simply, is the heart of a city. It is the point from where the intercity distance is measured. The early development of a town grows out from Kilometre Zero. For Johor Bahru, the location for the city’s Kilometre Zero is the General Post Office. Interestingly, Johor Bahru’s Kilometre Zero is extra special because it is also the Kilometre Zero for Peninsular Malaysia; and yes, its monument is located right in front of the same General Post Office!

Johor Bahru (JB), the southern gem of our beloved Malaysia, is fast becoming an international city. New skyscrapers, shopping malls and theme parks are being built at a rapid pace throughout the state of Johor. Despite this rush ofnew developments, it is heartening to see the city’s heritage buildings are being refurbished and spruced up of late.

Just a short walk from Kilometre Zero is the charming of what used to be JB’s old city centre, which is unique because it has a good mix of old and new, and it used to be called Coronation Avenue. Currently, Majlis Bandaraya Johor Bahru (Johor Bahru City Hall or MBJB) is carrying out beautification works of the city centre. Upgrading works on walkways and landscaping are being done to make the city more attractive for pedestrians, in time for Visit Johor Year 2020 and Visit Truly Asia Malaysia 2020.

It there is one word to best describe Coronation Avenue, it must be ‘eclectic’. The people of Johor, or Bangsa Johor is very proud of its harmonious living. You are able to see the different houses of worship located close to each other along Coronation Avenue.

So let’s start our adventure from Kilometre Zero. There is so much to see and experience just a short walk from that starting point.

You might want to make the Johor Tourism Information Centre (JOTIC) your first stop to get a map of the city! The building is next to the High Court, just a stone’s throw away from Kilometre Zero.

You can also spot the Istana Besar (Main Palace) from JOTIC. Istana Besar used to house the Royal Museum that showcases the history of the Johor Royal Family, including the family’s collectibles and gifts received from foreign dignitaries. We heard that there is a plan to reopen the museum in the near future.

Walk the Heritage Trail of JB

The heart of Johor Bahru we believe, is best discovered on foot. Get yourself on Jalan Tan Hiok Nee or Jalan Pahang, and simply wander around the pre-war shophouses. Most of the shops here have been around ever since we were children, and chances are they were already in business earlier than what our memory served us.

While walking, you would be able to notice the majestic grey coloured Sultan Ibrahim Building nearby. Perched on Bukit Timbalan, this was the tallest building in Johor Bahru when it was completed in 1940. This building was used as a fortress by the Japanese army during World War 2. Sultan Ibrahim Building was the state government administrative office which also house the state assembly hall and the Menteri Besar (Chief Minister) office until 2009.

Located next to the Sultan Ibrahim Building is another historic building: the old Royal Johor Military Force headquarters. Formed in 1886, this independent military force is the only one in Malaysia maintained by a state.

What to Eat

This area is dotted with various places to eat that have been around for some time, including new joints catering to the Instagram generation’s appetite (not necessarily the edible kind, if you know what we mean).

» Hua Mui - Established since 1946, this kopitiam (coffee shop) was, and still is, the place to meet. Seats are limited, but patrons seem to be patient enough to wait. Come for the ambience.

131 Jalan Trus, 80000 JB Opens daily 7:30 a.m. until 7:30 p.m.

» It Roo - Their claim to fame is that they serve “the best chicken chop in town”, an actual award given to them by The Star newspaper back in 2003. Their other offerings are equally good too. Our usual order? Deep fried chicken chop with mushroom gravy. Proteinloving friends may add 2 sunny side eggs on top.

17 Jalan Dhoby, 80000 JB Opens daily from 10:00 a.m. until 9:30 p.m.

» Hiap Joo Bakery - This bustling bakery has been using wood fired oven since 1919. Do try the bakery’s popular banana cake, besides other types of buns and breads.

13 Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, 80000 JB Opens from 7:30 a.m. until 5: 00 p.m. on Tuesdays until Saturdays Sundays 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m., Mondays 12:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.

» Salahuddin Bakery Located just across the street from It Roo, Salahuddin Bakery has been in business since 1937. Indian styled breads and pastries will definitely remind you of the good old days, especially when little has been done to update the look of the bakery!

26 Jalan Dhoby, 80000 JB Opens Sundays through Thursdays from 8:30 a.m. until 7:00 p.m.; closed on Fridays

Breakfast in JB

A short hop distance from JB’s historic city centre are several lovely places where you can find Johor culinary gems. We Johor Bahru folks are early risers, and we take our breakfast seriously. A good and hearty breakfast is what you need to make your day right. Some food outlets open as early as 7:00 a.m.; by 8:00 a.m., most of the good stuff will be gone. The following are our favourite breakfast haunts.

» Warung Saga

Whatwe love: Lontong (compressed rice cubes bathed in coconut milk gravy loaded with plenty of vegetables, and a dollop of spicy sambal), and Mee Siam Kuah (fried vermicelli doused with tangy and hot gravy). If you are lucky, you might also get Johor’s traditional buns, Roti Naik, here.

5, Jalan Mahmoodiah, 80100 JB Opens from 7:00 a.m. until midnight on Mondays until Thursdays and Saturdays Fridays 6:00 a.m. until midnight Sundays 6:00 a.m. to 4:20 p.m.

» Hutan Bandar Food Court

What we love: Lontong kering (compressed rice cubes served with plenty of side dish options) and Kuih Lopes (steamed triangle-shaped compressed glutinous rice coated with grated coconut, served with palm sugar syrup) at Gerai Fatimah.

Hutan Bandar MBJB Jalan Tasek Utara, 80100 JB Opens daily from 7:00 a.m. until 11:00 p.m.

» Del’s Kitchen

What we love: Laksa Johor (spaghetti doused with thick fish based spicy gravy, topped with the iconic spiralled cucumber and other garnishes) and Mee Siam Kuah (fried vermicelli doused with tangy and hot gravy).

Ground floor, Plaza Pelangi, Jalan Kuning, Taman Pelangi, 80400 JB Opens daily from 10:00 a.m. until 10:00 p.m.

» Selera Johor Food Court

This place seems to be the hub of Johor food all under one roof! We usually come here for brunch since the stalls we frequent open slightly later than the opening time. It is about 15 minutes’ drive from the city centre, just behind Larkin Sentral, the city’s main bus terminal.

What we love:

1. Rojak Asma (similar to Penang’s pasembur, comprising battered and deep fried fish cakes, potato, flour dumpling doused with sweet and spicy gravy. Sliced cucumber, lettuce and green chilli are added in the mix to give an interesting bite)

2. Murtabak (pan fried spiced minced beef or chicken cooked with onions and wrapped nicely in a thin dough parcel)

3. Mee Rebus (yellow noodles doused in sweet and savoury gravy, topped with crunchy batter bits and boiled egg)

4. Asam Pedas (fish cooked in thin hot and tangy gravy, to be eaten with steamed rice)

5. Goreng Pisang (deep fried battered bananas). Be sure to eat it in Johor style: dip the fried banana in sambal kicap (sweet soy sauce blended with fiery bird’s eye chillies and garlic) before eating.

2, Jalan Garuda, Taman Dato’ Onn Jaafar 80350 Johor Bahru Opens daily from 8:00 a.m. until 7:00 p.m.

AFTER THE SUN COMES DOWN

» Tepian Tebrau Food Court

When night falls, head to this spot for food, which has plenty of stalls selling asam pedas, seafood and the usual local hawker fares.

What we love: Cold desserts from Gerai Yong Yong, especially Cold Cikong (a magical concoction of boiled dried longan, barley and other secret ingredients topped with shaved ice) and ice jelly (plain jelly topped with soursop pulp, fruit cocktail, sea coconut, shaved iced and a squeeze of calamansi)!

Intersection of Jalan Sg. Chat and Jalan Mohd Amin Opens daily until midnight (some stalls are open from 8:00 a.m. for breakfast, some open for lunch, all are open for dinner)

» Bazar JB / Bazar Karat

Located right in the middle of the city by the famed Sungai Segget, this bazaar is where you could find great bargains for antiques, second-hand clothing, food, and knick knacks.

Opens daily from 6:00 p.m. until late

» Sky Screen

Just a few metres away from Kilometre Zero is a 120 metres by 20 metres sky screen made up of 540,000 LEDs spread over 9,000 strips displaying attractive moving graphics. It is quite an exciting experience driving underneath this brightly lit screen.

Opens daily from 7:00 p.m. until 1:00 a.m.

Conclusion

This is just the beginning of what you can experience in our home city, Johor Bahru. Of course, there are definitely more things you can do. We recommend staying for at least three nights in JB because there are more attractions await as you travel further from Kilometre Zero.