Selangor: A Plate of Culture, A Bowl of Rice

Text by LILY RIANI Images by RAIHAN FOZIAN & ED JUNAIDI ABU BAKAR

When eating meets travelling, the combination creates ecstasy that is best shared on social media. And what makes the Eat.Travel. Write Hulu ke Kuala (‘From Hulu Selangor to Kuala Selangor’) familiarisation trip organised by Selangor State Economic Planning Unit (UPEN) unique are the cultural and heritage elements highlighted along the way that include gastronomic delights, for example nasi kluban, bakso and soto; historical attractions like Kuala Kubu colonial heritage trail; and recreational activities such as paragliding, cycling in the paddy fields and enjoying Cholo Cholo Hot Springs. On top of all that, travellers can also watch kuda kepang, a traditional Javanese dance performance that has flourished at certain places in Peninsular Malaysia.

Hulu Selangor

The participants of Eat.Travel.Write 11 familiarisation trip having their picture taken with the kuda kepang performers at Kuala Selangor.

Kuala Kubu was a mining town back in 1925. The kubu (fortress) was constructed before the British colonial powers took over, and it is the site where Raja Mahdi and Syed Mashor fought against Tengku Kudin during the Selangor Civil War from 1867 to 1874. This former British town at the foot of Fraser’s Hill was washed away by the 1883 flood, killing Sir Cecil Ranking, the District Officer at the time. Local legend has it that the flood was due to him shooting a mystical white crocodile regarded as the guardian of the river. Following that incident, Kuala Kubu Bharu was rebuilt on higher ground by Charles Crompton Reade, a town planner from New Zealand, based on garden city concept with distinctive zoning of town, residential areas and hospital separated by gardens, making it the first modern garden township in Asia.

Kuala Kubu Bharu Heritage Trail

The Clock Tower (right) that serves as a starting point for the Kuala Kubu Bharu heritage trail.

Kuala Kubu Bharu town was built in 1928 after the 1883 flood. There are eight heritage sites located around Kuala Kubu Bharu that can be reached by foot. The clock tower – which commemorates the coronation of King George VI & Queen Elizabeth in 1937 – is a great place to start. Further down the road are the neoclassical Kuala Kubu Bharu Post Office building; fire station built in 1931; shop house Number 1 and 2 on Jalan Dato Tabal (formerly Bowen Street); the Hulu Selangor Traffic Police Headquarters (previously Holy Ascension Church); and lastly the former British District and Land Office constructed in 1931 overlooking the town (now called Bukit Kerajaan).

#HeritageTips Take photos of A Taste of Life murals (eight spots in total) situated along the heritage trail. These murals were created by ALFA College’s Schools of Visual Communication, Interior Architecture & Architecture Operating hours: 24 hours (daily)

Paragliding in Kuala Kubu Bharu (https://www.facebook.com/KKBParaglidingPark/)

Tandem paragliding is the best way to enjoy the aeriel view of Kuala Kubu Bharu town.

Experience a 20- to 30-minute tandem paragliding, where you will take off from the launch pad on Bukit Batu Pahat 1,400 feet above sea level and touch down at Taman Millenium. During the flight, you will get to take in the aerial view of Kuala Kubu Bharu town, Huffaz Lake and the Selangor Dam.

#TravelTips Price: MYR350 per person Duration: 1 hour (8 to 15 minutes of flight time) Operating hours: 9:30 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. (daily). Closed during major public holidays.

Sun Sun Nam Cheong Restaurant

Hainanese chicken chop drizzled with brown onion gravy.

Celebrating its 100-year anniversary in 2020, Sun Sun Nam Cheong Restaurant stays true to its roots by serving its popular Hainanese chicken chop recipe until today, which is made from chicken steak drizzled with brown onion gravy, served alongside vegetables, chubby fries and eggs topped with sunny side up.

Contrary to popular belief, Hainanese chicken chop did not originate from China. The recipe was created by the Chinese from Hainan who migrated to Malaya in the 19th century and worked as cooks for the British families. The Hainanese community eventually localised the western recipes to suit local palate.

#FoodTips Address: 8, Jalan Mat Kilau, Pekan Kuala Kubu Bharu, Kuala Kubu Bharu, Selangor Must-try: Hainanese chicken chop, Hailam mee, Hainanese toast with butter and homemade kaya, including Hainanese coffee Operating hours: 7:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. (daily). Closed on Mondays.

Cholo Cholo Hot Springs (https://www.instagram.com/ontokontok/)

Several participants of Eat.Travel.Write 11 familiarisation trip having a dip at Cholo Cholo Hot Springs.

Cholo Cholo Hot Springs was accidentally found by a villager who was surprised that the water in the area was too hot when searching for his buffalo calf. The hot springs consists of a few pools categorised according to the degree of heat. The hot water from the springs is said able to accelerate the healing process and believed to cure ailments like rheumatism and skin irritation.

#TravelTips Address: Lot 2107, Kolam Air Panas Hulu Tamu, Batang Kali, Selangor Entrance fee: MYR3 per person, children below 12 years old enter free Operating hours: 24 hours (daily). Closed on Thursdays.

Kuala Selangor

Fleeing from Dutch colonial rule, many Javanese migrated from the Indonesian island of Java to Malaya. From 1880 to 1930, the Javanese population grew and migrated to other states such as Perak and Kedah, while the majority moved to Selangor, populating areas such as Tanjung Karang, Sabak Bernam, Kuala Selangor, Kelang, Banting and Sepang. Interestingly, the members of the Javanese community in Kuala Selangor still converse in Javanese language and practice Javanese customs. These can be clearly seen in the ceremonies and delicacies, especially in the traditional arts for instance kuda kepang, gamelan, wayang kulit, as well as Javanese delicacies like nasi kluban, punten and ketiwol, to name a few.

Cycling in the paddy fields (http://visit-sekinchan.com/amg-bicycle-renting-sekinchan.html)

Exploring Sekinchan in Kuala Selangor on quadricycle.

Breezing into the ‘land of plenty’, Sekinchan – Selangor’s very own rice bowl – can be explored by either tandem bike or quadricycle, which can be rented from AMG Bicycle Renting. Cycling through the swathes of paddy fields is an experience enjoyed by many. Scenic view of green paddy shoots, scarecrows waving incessantly and white egrets bobbing while locals fishing by the irrigation canals make for a charmingly idyllic scenery.

#TravelTips Address: AMG Bicycle Renting, No 8-C, Jalan Menteri, Sekinchan, Selangor Rate: Single Rider MYR10 per hour, Tandem Bicycle MYR16 per hour Operating hours: 5:00 p.m. – midnight (weekdays); 3:00 p.m. – midnight (weekends)

Kuda Kepang Jawa (Flat Horse)

Participants of Eat.Travel.Write 11 familiarisation trip having a go at kuda kepang dance under the guidance of performers.

Kuda kepang (flat horse) performance originated from West Java in Indonesia. It is a source of entertainment showcasing dancers re-enacting battles for independence against the Dutch. Due to Javanese immigration, this art form made its way to Malaya and adapted for local consumption. This art form was also utilised by one of the nine revered holy men (Wali Songo) responsible in expanding the Islamic faith throughout Java, depicting stories of colonial oppression, expressed through dance and music.

When performing kuda kepang, the dancers ride and imitate the horse’s movement according to the music, with the speed of the dancers’ gallop determined by the rhythm and beat.

#CultureTips Kuda kepang is made of cowhide and comes in three colours to signify different characters: red, white and grey. The troupe generally involves nine dancers riding the flat horses, five musicians and two Tok Batin (shaman) because the performance incorporates spiritual element. The traditional musical instruments used are angklung, gendang, gong and gamelan (bonang / chaklempong).

Ratu Kapit Station (https://www.facebook.com/ RatuKapitStation/)

Kuih kapit with different flavoured fillings and toppings.

Kuih kapit or Dutch love letters is a festive traditional wafer snack made from egg, flour, sugar and coconut milk. It was used by couples to relay love messages and the consumption of the pastry means that the message is taken to heart, thus considered as a romantic pastry. Flavoured fillings and toppings offer a contemporary twist to this much-loved snack.

With modern technology, production is now increased using the custom-made electric kuih kapit maker, allowing this snack to be produced efficiently all year round, offline and online.

#FoodTips Address: Lot 591-A1, Batu 2, Jalan Kuala Selangor-Teluk Intan, Kampung Permatang, Kuala Selangor, Selangor Flavours: Chocolate, peanut butter and durian Topping: Nut, rainbow sprinkles and chocolate rice

Nasi Kluban (Salad Rice)

Nasi kluban is presented on a dulang and served during special occasions.

Nasi kluban is commonly served during festivities such as majlis kesyukuran (thanksgiving ceremony) in conjunction with children’s birthday and aqiqah (sacrificing of goat or sheep on the occasion of a child’s birth). It is frequently served during majlis melenggang perut (baby shower) too, usually on the 7th month of the pregnancy.

This dish is presented on a dulang (large tray) and typically enjoyed by a group of four to five people. Consisting of rice, grated coconut cooked with blended spices (onion, garlic, chili, ginger and cutcherry or Kempferia galanga), including sliced vegetables, before being served together with salted egg, cucumber and fried fish, nasi kluban signifies unity and camaraderie to promote sharing among family members, friends and fellow villagers. The food is to be divided equally for guest to bring home and share it with family members.

#FoodTips Address: D’ Bagan Awang Restaurant, Jalan Pawang Ghaffar, Kampung Bagan Sungai Buloh, Jeram, Selangor Greens used in the dish: Bean sprouts, winged bean, long bean, king’s salad and Brazillian spinach For baby shower, nasi kluban needs to be paired with seven types of salad or seven types of pickled fruits. The number 7 signifies the 7th month of pregnancy

It is amazing that the local customs and heritage are still being upheld in both Hulu Selangor and Kuala Selangor. The concerted effort among the agencies under the auspices of the state of Selangor in organising this familiarisation trip together with the respective product owners and villagers is truly laudable and appreciated.