Gaycation Magazine Issue 19 September 2015 by Gaycation Magazine

Gaycation September 2015 Issue 19

NYC Fall Fashion Week 2015

Kilkenny, Ireland’s Ballybur Castle

Europe’s Next Gay Gem: Antwerp

+ Brooklyn Style Guide, Joshua Tree & More

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CONTENTS 58 Threads Fall Styles: Inside New York’s Fashion Week

52 Brooklyn, NY

The quick style guide to Brooklyn, America’s capital of cool.

48 there’s this place Joshua Tree National Park, California

26 Feast Discovering Catalan Culture and Local Cuisine

The Wire

11LGBTQ

travel news and information, ranging from new hotel/resort openings to cruise itineraries and travel planning tips and products.

Postcards

gaycationers

70Meet some of the incredible people that have become a part of our family of Gaycationers.

Explicit guide to

72Gaycationing

How To’s and Tips on what to do and where to do it from your favorite travel writers and bloggers.

Found It!

34Show off your Gaycation with photos of 78Must have travel items for everyone places you have visited so everyone can be envious of the great time you had (as well as having proof)!

from the novice weekender to the seasoned globetrotter.

38 Look Out Amsterdam Antwerp is gunning for the gay crown

66 Book it! Madrid’s Óscar Hotel in the heart of Chueca

18 Ballybur Whisked away to Kilkenny, Ireland’s Ballybur Castle

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About the Cover Photo

Founder/Editor-in-Chief DJ Doran dj@gaycationmagazine.com

Executive Editor Aaron Drake @theaarondrake aaron@gaycationmagazine.com

Feast Editor Joe Morales joe@gaycationmagazine.com

Advertising Department sales@gaycationmagazine.com National Advertising Representative Rivendell Media 212-242-6863

Subscription Department subscriptions@gaycationmagazine.com

Article + Photo Submission Model René Grincourt gives us a smoldering look backstage at the debut of the Banana Republic Fall 2015 line at New York’s Fall Fashion Week. Photo courtesy of Andrew Villagomez.

Contributors David Brown Zack Cahill Kelsy Chauvin Michelle McCarthy David Perry Andrew Villagomez Send address changes and subscription info to: Gaycation Magazine PO Box 2972 Indianapolis, IN 46206

editor@gaycationmagazine.com

General Info travel@gaycationmagazine.com

www.gaycationmagazine.com GaycationMagazine GaycationMag +GaycationMagazine1 GaycationMag GaycationMagazine GaycationMagazine ISSN 2378-7279 (PRINT) ISSN 2378-7287 (ONLINE)

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

September 2015 Issue 19

Dear Gaycationers,

As summer finally burns off its last few weeks—of what turned out to be one of the hottest summers on the books around the globe—it’s a relief to look forward to the next best time of year in my humble opinion: fall. I’m usually a summertime kind of guy, but even I’ll admit this year was a steamy one. I was only mildly unprepared for the summer weather in my new home state of Florida (although I was repeatedly warned that the humidity was something to be wary of. I did sense some seriousness behind the weary and half-joking smiles). We at Gaycation are more than ready to don a cozy (yet fashionable) sweater, breathe in the crisp air and surround ourselves with the turning leaves. This issue we celebrate the change in seasons by traveling across the Atlantic—eating our way through Spain’s Catalan region, roaming the streets of Europe’s offthe-beaten-path gay gem Antwerp and spending the night in a castle in Ireland. And the best way to experience it all? One half of Two Bad Tourists, contributor David Brown, gives us tips on navigating Eurail to plan the best route across Europe while still traveling in style. Back in the U.S., the best is yet to come as we make a stop at one of the most beautiful destinations this time of year as well as the fashion and style capital of the world—New York City. Travel and fashion blogger Andrew Villagomez takes us along to scope out the behind-the-

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scenes of Fashion Week and catches the looks of some ridiculously gorgeous models showing off fall’s latest fashions on the runways and in the streets. Then, Kelsy Chauvin takes us on a tailored tour of LGBT Brooklyn: Far be it from just a hipster haven, it’s quickly become a destination completely separate from the city that never sleeps. We share where to shop, where to dine and where to play in the city’s burgeoning neighborhoods. As we let fall cool us down, take some time to look back on your summer travels and feel free to share photos from your adventures with us by sending them to editor@gaycationmagazine.com. But certainly don’t let that slow you down as you make plans to pack your bags and gear up for the end of 2015. Next month, we’ll be pigging out as we venture to the American Southwest, Midwest and Northeast for our annual Food & Spirits issue. Sit back, relax and enjoy. And as always, thanks for joining us! We look forward to seeing you back here again soon. Have safe (and stylish) travels,

Aaron Drake

Gaycation Magazine

The Midwestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest LGBTQ news source since 1991!

PROVINCETOWN your vacation just got sexier

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The Wire

TRAVEL NEWS YOU CAN USE

Dallas is trying to become the hot new destination for gay couples by Sophie-Claire Hoelle

Dallas, Texas, has the 6th-largest LGBT population in the US, and has been called one of the most gay-friendly cities in the US. Since the US Supreme Court ruling that approved same sex marriage, Dallas is now trying to bill itself as the hot new destination for gay couples. “The gay market is a natural market for Dallas, which comes as a surprise to many,” said Phillip Jones, the president & CEO of the Dallas visitor’s bureau. “People have this perception of Dallas, and of Texas, as being this politically conservative place, but we have a female lesbian Hispanic sheriff.” Jones emphasised how Dallas has a large and wellestablished gay community, and nationally-recognised gay neighbourhoods like Oak Lawn, as well as the Bishop Arts District gayborhood, both full of bustling hotspots like the Round-Up Saloon, JR’s Bar & Grill and Station 4. The city is also home to the Cathedral of Hope, which is the world’s largest gay and lesbian church with 30,000 national members. Dallas issued its first same-sex marriage licence mere hours after the SCOTUS decision was announced — and the tourism board is jumping on board to bring in gay couples looking for destination weddings. LGBT magazine The Dallas Voice has put together the first annual Wedding Party & EXPO in conjunction with the North Texas GLBT Chamber, which will take place on August 2nd, and will feature more than 60 exhibitors, including venues, photographers, caterers, and florists, as well as a formal wear fashion show. While samewww.gaycationmagazine.com

sex marriage in Texas is obviously still new, according to Engayged Weddings popular venues already include the scenic Towering Oaks Haven and Castle on the Lake. So far, the Dallas CVB’s efforts include targeted outreach through social media, a dedicated microsite, and even a LGBT visitor’s guide for which they partnered with the local North Texas GLBT Chamber. They have been reaching out to the Cathedral of Hope as well as other local churches to make sure they have the infrastructure in place to accommodate the many samesex weddings Dallas will hopefully be hosting in the future. “If you happen to be gay and want to get married, why not in Dallas?” Jones said. “It’s great for gay couples to say ‘hey, I got married in Texas!’” Read original article here: www.businessinsider.com. au/dallas-the-hot-new-destination-for-gay-couples-lgbttravel-texas-2015-7

j Your News If you have a piece of news you would love to share, send it our way and we’ll get it posted here.

l Like It? If you see something you like, share it and tell them you found it on Gaycation

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Mexico turns its attention to LGBT market By Gay Nagle Myers

How does Mexico further tap into the lucrative LGBT market, a sector that accounted for 3 million international visitors to Mexico in 2014 out of a total of 29.1 million international visitors? Globally, this type of tourism is growing at an annual rate of 10.3%, compared with 4.7% overall growth in tourism, according to data from the World Tourism Organization. Within Mexico, the top gay-friendly destinations for LGBT travelers include Cancun, Mexico City and Puerto Vallarta, followed by Cuernavaca, Oaxaca and Guadalajara, according to Carlos Joaquin Gonzalez, undersecretary for innovation and tourism development in the Ministry of Tourism. Results of a recent study carried out by the ministry and the Mexican government indicated that the average spend per LGBT traveler was approximately $1,550 per person, practically double the $780 average spend. During his recent swearing-in ceremony as a member of the new board of the National Association of Trade and LGBT Tourism of Mexico, Joaquin Gonzalez acknowledged that LGBT travelers “have become an important source market that can bring huge benefits by offering a variety of services, inclusiveness and respect for this tourism niche. This is an important market for us and needs further support from us.” He said that the ministry and the Mexican government currently are studying the potential of Mexico’s tourism destinations with respect to the LGBT segment. A recent workshop on LGBT tourism drew participation 12

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from 15 Mexican states interested in entering the niche market and in updating their range of tourism products to appeal to this market. “The Ministry of Tourism supported the LGBT fairs held in Guadalajara in 2013 and in Puerto Vallarta in 2014. We’re supporting this next one on Sept. 18 and 19 in Merida,” Joaquin Gonzalez said. The ministry also is working to supply information and training resources for tourism service providers for the LGBT market in the states of Guerrero, Veracruz and Morelos. Read the original article here: www.travelweekly. com/Mexico-Travel/Insights/Mexico-turns-its-attentionto-LGBT-market

US Travel to Get Economic Boost from LGBT Travelers By James Ruggia

Out Now Global, a well-established Australian research consultancy on the subject of LGBT travel, is predicting enormous growth in LGBT travel to the United States due to the recent Supreme Court decision that www.gaycationmagazine.com

established gay marriage as a fully legal right in the United States. In a prediction it describes as “conservative,” Out Now Global claims LGBT tourism will likely increase by 9 percent over the next three years and that the court’s decision will create an influx of 1.3 million LGBT tourists spending $4.25 billion over that same period. The Out Now Global LGBT2030 Study measured seven key LGBT markets: Australia, Brazil, Canada, France, Germany, Italy and the UK. LGBT2030 researchers asked respondents the following question: “When you choose where to travel, to what extent can the legal situation for local LGBT people affect where you decide to go to spend your holiday/vacation?” For its prediction, Out Now limited its assessment to only those respondents who indicated that the local legal situation affects their travel plans “to a great extent” and who also indicated an intention to visit the USA during the coming three years. Results were then discounted further to allow for the 37 US states which already had marriage equivalence, prior to the Court’s decision. The resulting figures are therefore somewhat conservative, as well as being substantial. Key findings show that over the next three years LGBT travelers from Australia will equal 57,000, spending $320 million; from Brazil 465,000, spending $1,280 million; from Canada 99,000, spending $360 million; from Germany 216,000, spending $660 million; from Italy 124,000, spending $350 million and from the UK 168,000, spending $550 million. The total comes to 1.3 million LGBT travelers spending around $4.25 billion. “In each of the seven countries we measured, there was a resulting increase in total likely LGBT visitors of between 9 and 11 percent,” said Out Now CEO, Ian Johnson. “This new data being reported today, which is conservative in analysis as well as being substantial in scale, shows that giving LGBT people full equality is not only a social issue, it can have substantial economic benefits as well. There are a lot of new U.S. tourism jobs that are going to be created in the next three years as a direct result of last week’s decision. No matter where people stand on the issue of marriage equality, the simple fact is that this is definitely a strong boost for jobs and for the U.S. economy.” In an effort to more fully comprehend an enormous market that’s growing exponentially, the World Travel Market is asking members of the travel industry to participate in an online survey concerning the LGBT travel market. To participate, travel industry members should www.gaycationmagazine.com

go to www.Welcome.LGBT and take a few minutes to answer questions. The findings will be unveiled at the next World Travel Market in London this September. “World Travel Market has had a focus on the LGBT tourism market for the past decade, with educational seminars and a dedicated region on the exhibition floor,” said the WTM’s Senior Director Simon Press. “The findings of the survey could shape LGBT travel for the next 10 years.” Read the original article here: www.travelpulse.com/ news/destinations/us-travel-to-get-economic-boostfrom-lgbt-travelers.html

LGBT travelers make everyone else look like cheapskates by Jenny Miller

Now that our LGBT friends will be heading off on honeymoons in the wake of the Supreme Court’s happy ruling, here’s some travel news to pay attention to: A recent study by D.K. Shifflet and Associates revealed that LGBT leisure travelers spend about 15% more than their straight counterparts, as Travel Industry Wire alerts us. The survey looked at groups with comparable incomes and party size and also found that LGBT travelers are more likely to book luxury accommodations, which just proves that destinations, like Ireland, which promote themselves as LGBT-friendly, are right on the money. Since we’ve already talked about the challenges LGBT travelers can face, at least it’s nice to know that finding the cheapest-available crappy motel isn’t one of them. Read the original article here: www.roadwarriorvoices. com/2015/07/10/lgbt-travelers-make-everyone-elselook-like-cheapskates/ Gaycation Magazine

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Destinations, Accommodations, Tours, Events & Services

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Whisked away to Kilkenny, Ireland’s Ballybur Castle by Zack Cahill The Irish-American novelist Colum McCann has said of his transatlantic lifestyle, “When I come home, I say I’m going home to Dublin. When I’m in Dublin, I say I’m going home to New York.” It’s a sentiment every Irish emigrant can relate to, including myself, though my adopted home is just an hour’s flight across the water in London. Still, in the six months since I was last in Ireland there have been times when the country has felt a million miles away. The same-sex marriage referendum in June saw the “Yes” side winning by a seismic margin and the country promptly set itself to Defcon Party. There were marriage proposals in pubs, singing in the streets and endless tears of joy. Meanwhile I, ineligible to vote and traveling for work, missed the whole thing. So maybe my extended absence has made the little differences more apparent, but landing in Dublin and taking a stroll through town it really does feel like there’s 18

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something in the air. Many friends have mentioned that you see far more same-sex couples holding hands in the streets now. But there’s also just a general sense of pride among the people, gay and straight alike, that we decided as a nation to create a fairer society. After years of economic turmoil and austerity, Dublin—and Ireland as a whole—has a buzz about it again. An American visitor expecting the famed, lilting Irish brogue might find themselves confused if not disappointed by the South Dublin accent. The well-todo suburban kids are so marinated in American pop culture—in Friends re-runs and box-sets—that they themselves have taken a pseudo Californian argot, all high-rising terminals and Valley girl slang. I find myself slipping back into the accent too, but Dublin is just a pit stop for me before the 90-minute train-ride to Kilkenny, where I’m in for an altogether more rural experience at www.gaycationmagazine.com

Ballybur castle. A note on castles: Growing up in Ireland, you’re tripping over the damn things; they’re everywhere. There are two ancient castles within walking distance of my family home. Granted, they’re in a state of ruin, but they’re there. Many other castles across the country have been refurbished beyond recognition and are basically glorified hotels. So while I’m excited to be staying at Ballybur, I’m not necessarily expecting anything I haven’t seen before. Happily, I’m wrong. There’s no staff, no reception, just a beautiful tower on an acre of rolling farmland, and I have the whole thing to myself. Built in 1688 by the Comerford clan, Ballybur Castle is in fact a tower house or keep; a tall, square structure with a stone spiral staircase running through the center. Climbing the staircase evokes the most incredible sense of history, a sort of sense-memory derived from walking in the footsteps of its 15th-century residents. Rooms fan off at higgledy-piggledy angles, such that no www.gaycationmagazine.com

one can actually agree on how many floors the castle has—could be four, could be five. They do agree that it can comfortably sleep 12 people. The middle floors each contain one grand, master bedroom—four-poster beds, canopies, the whole regal deal—and a cozy guest quarters that put me in mind of a particularly wellappointed monastery. It immediately strikes me that this would be the ideal retreat for writers or artists. The structure is topped and tailed by a kitchen on the ground floor with a solid fuel stove and a large dining room on the top floor with a vaulted ceiling. There is also a French-style shower room with a sloping floor and another bathroom with a free-standing bath. (Frank claims the loo is in it’s exact original place, but back in medieval times it was a two-seater). The stairwell is lit by narrow slit windows, which widen on the inside to bounce light around and—more importantly—to provide a wide field of fire for archers when the castle was under attack. This is a defensive structure, built in a time of British rule, warring clans and Gaycation Magazine

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raiders appearing over the hills. The seven-foot-thick walls, secret rooms and ramparts bear testament to these tumultuous times. (I’m told by a number of people during my stay that Oliver Cromwell, the English military leader who led the invasion of Ireland, once shot the roof off with a cannon because he was annoyed about something. Cromwell isn’t a popular figure in Ireland, but you probably guessed that). Events like that meant that the castle was in quite a state of disrepair when Frank Grey, a Scottish engineer living in Kilkenny, bought it in 1980 for the princely sum of £20,000. “Only in Ireland could you buy a castle for that kind of money,” he says. Frank’s daughter Mhairi tells me they thought the refurb w o u l d take five years. It took 2 5 . Which is why the castle was only recently opened to guests, for family getaways and small weddings. Leafing through the visitor’s book, I see messages left by Comerfords from all over the world, families making the pilgrimage to their ancestral home. In their notes the family name is written proudly in all caps and underlined by guests from Nashville, Sydney and France. In the centuries after the original family were removed, the castle changed hands many times before the Greys bought it. Then, in 2007, Mhairi met and fell in love with a young man in Australia named Darren, who turned out to be a Comerford himself. So now, Mhairi jokes, through wonderful chance or cosmic inevitability, their daughter has been rightfully restored as princess 22

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of Ballybur Castle. The castle is just a 10-minute drive from Kilkenny town center and I manage to wrangle a lift into town with Frank himself. He tells me about the best places to go for dinner, drinks and music as we crunch down the driveway. We collect Frank’s friend on the way and soon we’re talking about what all Irish people talk about if left together long enough: the ongoing narrative of our ruined but rallying economy. This is a country in recovery. The general consensus is that yes, the banks were crooked and the politicians corrupt, but we’re all partly to blame.

We overstretched ourselves, going mad buying houses and thinking we were rich. Like good Catholics, whether lapsed or observing, we give good guilt. But now we’ve paid our penance and things are looking up. If you’ve ever wondered what a town made entirely of pubs is like, come to Kilkenny. Frank drops me off at the central crossroads and everywhere I look there are heaving bars and bustling restaurants. Traditional Irish music drifts from the doorways, the pounding gallop of the bodhrán drum, the fiddle joining in seconds later www.gaycationmagazine.com

and the crowd clapping and howling along. There is nothing else like it—it simply needs to be experienced. I eat a hearty pub dinner of sausage and mash in Kytelers and clap along to the music. Three men are playing songs I’ve known my whole life, but only grew to love after I’d left the country. The crowd is in fine form and after a couple of pints I’m deep in conversation with two locals. Something about the Irish character that I have yet to see replicated elsewhere: you can sit beside a stranger in a bar and know their life story within half an hour. I end up joining the two locals on an impromptu pubcrawl, the music following us everywhere, each place in higher spirits than the last. The Field Bar is a particular favorite, with a raucous band playing mere inches from the dancing punters, working them up to a state of near ecstasy. By the time I leave I’ve made friends for life, if I could just remember their names. I awake the next morning in the four-poster bed in the master bedroom. The castle is perfectly silent. I have coffee outside on the terrace as the country air soothes my hangover. I promise myself I’ll come back here, with a partner or group of friends. London may be home, but places like this show me that with enough local hospitality, anywhere can feel like home. BallyburCastle.com

Zack Cahill is an awardwinning journalist and screenwriter living in London. He is also the director of Aegis Training, a personal training company voted best in London by Timeout Magazine. He is currently working on a historical biopic set in Victorian Britain, due to go into production in 2016. Zack is fond of moderately expensive red wine and hopes to one day use the word “existential” correctly in a sentence. Follow him on Twitter at @zackcahill.

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EVENTS

Here are some events and shows Gaycation Magazine will be attending or will have a presence. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re always adding more and looking for that special event for us to be at. If you would like us to attend your event, please let us know at travel@gaycationmagazine.com

September 10 - 13, 2015 Key West Womenfest www.womenfest.com September 27, 2015 Same Love, Same Rights Wedding Expo Holiday Inn Cleveland

www.RainbowWeddingNetwork.com www.SameLoveSameRights.com

October 27, 2015 Key West Headdress Ball

www.headdressballkeywest.com

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Feast

An exploration of a traditional local dish and how it connects to the culutre, with recipes and recommendations where to eat

Discovering Catalan Culture & Local Cuisine Living in Madrid, Catalonia has been one of those destinations I just can’t seem to avoid. With an international city like Barcelona as its capital and gorgeous landscapes, there always seems to be a reason to go. Costa Brava has spectacular coasts to be discovered and beaches to be enjoyed. Then there’s the Pyrenees Mountains where Catalonia and the rest of northern Spain share a border with France that’s sprinkled with quaint towns and lakes. So I have often found an excuse to head to the Catalan region, whether it’s to ski in the mountains, swim in the ocean, or enjoy city life in its beautiful, architecturally rich capital city. During my most recent trip to this northeastern region of Spain, I discovered that the Catalan cuisine is just as diverse and appealing as the landscape itself. While in Barcelona I was walking down Las Ramblas, a 26

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By David Brown popular shopping street in the center for tourists as well as locals, with a tour guide who pointed out a popular food market worth a stop, La Boqueria. I found this to be the opportune time to inquire about just what Catalan cuisine is exactly. What should I be expecting from this specific region of Spain apart from the general Spanish dishes like cured hams and cheeses, patatas bravas, the Spanish omelette, or croquettes? “It’s often a mixture of meats and seafood,” explained my guide. “It’s not uncommon to see things like meatballs with a fish sauce.” Basically Catalan food is quite representative of its contrasting terrain from the mountainside to the seaside. There’s no fear in mixing seafood with meats. Throughout my stay I also learned about many local Catalan dishes such as calçots, which are like spring www.gaycationmagazine.com

onions that are typically grilled and dipped into romesco sauce, a refreshing and slightly sweet red pepper sauce that balances with the savory grilled spring onions. Of course there is also pa amb tomaquet, which is just as its Catalan name states—bread with a tomato sauce that is sometimes served with anchovies or serrano ham. I also tried escalibada, a cold vegetable dish that I must admit I was not so fond of consisting of eggplant, broad beans, red pepper, and onion with garlic and oil. Crema catalana was a dish that I eagerly devoured a few too many times. It is basically a Catalan version of crème brûlée and easy to find around the region, but be warned that some crema catalananas are much better than others. Just about all these dishes mentioned so far can be ordered at Elche, a great restaurant found in Barcelona’s Poble Sec district. However, the dish that most caught my eye this trip was catalan fideua. I discovered it at El Cangrejo Loco, a restaurant with stunning waterfront views in the Olympic Port of Barcelona. This dish is essentially the overlooked cousin of paella, which is perhaps the most internationally

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well-known dish from Spain. Paella originated from the Valencian region of Spain, and somewhere along the way fideua was born from it where it worked its way up to Catalonia to become the catalan fideua variant of the dish. The most important difference between paella and fideua is that paella is a rice-based dish, whereas fideua is a noodle-based dish. But the variations don’t stop there. The difference between valencian fideua and catalan fideua is the noodle thickness, with the Catalan version being thinner than the Valencian one. These can seem to be minute details, but apparently everyone has their preference. There’s also an endearing tale about how fideua came to be. It goes that fishermen during the early twentieth century used to eat a common seafood rice dish, but the skipper of one particular boat loved rice so much that there was never enough for the rest of the crew. Therefore, one crew member substituted the rice with fideos, or noodles, and fideua was created along with its many adaptations. The dish is made with short lengths of pasta, fresh

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local seafood like fish, squid, shrimp, and prawns and cooked in a paella pan, which is a wide and flat shallow pan. Its base is a fish broth and it can also be dressed with a squirt of lemon. To top it off, it is served with allioli, a wickedly delicious garlic mayonnaise sauce which adds the perfect creamy taste to the dish. In fact, I find allioli goes well with just about anything. As fideua is prepared in quite a large quantity, it is one of those perfect dishes to be shared with family and friends around the table, catching up while enjoying a common Catalan dish. With its close relation to paella, you might even be tempted to pick a side, preferring one dish over the other. After all, Spain is all about rivalries— be it between soccer teams or metropolitan cities. I, however, could not say whether I prefer fideua or paella. I think both dishes stand quite well on their own, but that is something you’ll have to decide for yourself. Either way, it’s an incredibly rich and savory dish that embodies the Mediterranean diet of Catalonia.

Catalan Fideua Broth Ingredients: Extra-virgin olive oil 2 onions, chopped (about 2 cups) ½ pound small shrimp, shell on 4 large garlic cloves, roughly chopped 3 small dried hot red peppers, or use 1 pinch cayenne ½ teaspoon fennel seed ½ teaspoon coriander seed 1 large bay leaf A few thyme sprigs Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 ½ pounds meaty bones from cod, snapper or halibut, rinsed (or use boneless fish chunks) 12 clams 1 pound mussels, cleaned Fideua Ingredients: 1 pound fideus noodles (dry), or use Italian fedelini or spaghettini Extra-virgin olive oil Pinch of saffron crumbled into 1/4 cup water 1 pound mussels, cleaned, for garnish ½ pound large shrimp, shell on, for garnish (optional) 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 teaspoon orange zest Allioli, for garnish (see recipe) Preparation: 1. Make the broth: Put 3 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy soup pot over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add small shrimp, garlic, hot pepper, fennel, coriander, bay leaf and thyme. Season generously with salt and pepper, stir to coat and cook 2 minutes more.

David is a part-time English teacher and part-time freelance travel writer based in Madrid. He grew up in Phoenix before leaving for Chicago where he spent a few years with his husband. Soon after, they sold their belongings to travel the world and have been doing so for the past three years. He and his husband manage the travel blog TwoBadTourists.com, where you can find information on gay travel events, tips, and stories.

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2. Stir in tomato paste and cook 5 minutes, until mixture begins to look dry. Add fish bones, clams, 1 pound mussels and 8 cups water; cover and bring to a boil. Uncover, reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes. 3. Strain through a sturdy mesh sieve into another pot, pushing on solids with a wooden spoon. Discard solids and keep strained broth hot. Taste for salt. Broth should be well seasoned. (Can be made ahead, though eat it www.gaycationmagazine.com

within 24 hours, or you can freeze it.) 4. Make the fideuĂ : Heat oven to 375 degrees. Put fideus noodles in a large roasting pan or baking sheet. (If using Italian pasta, break it into 2-inch lengths first.) Pour 2 tablespoons olive oil over noodles and toss with hands to coat. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, turning with tongs if necessary, until noodles are golden brown. (May be done in advance.) 5. Place a cazuela or wide heavy pot on the stove. Add toasted noodles, pressing down a bit. Ladle 3 cups hot broth over noodles and bring to a boil. Push down on the noodles with a wooden spoon as they soften into the broth. Add saffron-infused water and cook for a minute, then stir to mix. Add enough hot broth to cover pasta by 1 inch. Lower heat and cook at a simmer for about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add more broth (and adjust heat) if mixture dries out.

minutes, until shells open. Turn off heat. The noodles should be cooked but firm, and the mixture a little soupy. 7. If using the large shell-on shrimp, season them and sautĂŠ in 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat for 2 minutes per side. 8. Ladle into individual soup plates. Mix the parsley with the orange zest. Garnish fideus with shrimp, if using, the parsley mixture and a spoonful of allioli. Time: 1 1/2 hours Serves: 4 to 6 (Recipe via NY Times: www.cooking.nytimes.com/ recipes/1016156-catalan-fideua)

6. Scatter remaining 1 pound mussels over the top, then push them down until barely submerged. Cook 3 to 4 www.gaycationmagazine.com

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MIAMI’S LGBT VOICE

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$2 Ice cream from King Cone in Pittsfiled, Massachusetts.

Carabao Beach with Stefan and Sebastian. Photo courtesy of Nomadic Boys.

Seven Terraces Pool. Photo courtesy of Nomadic Boys.

Sunset with Stefan and Sebastian. Photo courtesy of Nomadic Boys.

Puka sign. Photo courtesy of Nomadic Boys.

Stefan and hammock on Flower Island. Photo courtesy of Nomadic Boys.

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Moziac Mural in North Creek, NY on the Adirondack Train Trail.

Damai Indah Sunset. Photo courtesy of Nomadic Boys.

Stefan enjoying the swimming pool. Photo courtesy of Nomadic Boys. www.gaycationmagazine.com

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Look Out, Amsterdam

Antwerp is Gunning For the Gay Crown

by David Perry

There is solid chocolate, liquid chocolate, good-date chocolate, bad-date chocolate, birthday chocolate, unbirthday chocolate, I-love-life chocolate, shoot-menow chocolate, morning chocolate, noon chocolate, evening chocolate, I-so-deserve-this chocolate, whatdid-I-do-to-deserve-this chocolate, YOLO chocolate, happy chocolate, sad chocolate, and pissed-off chocolate. Then there is Belgian chocolate. And in the hallowed, cacao-tinged presence of Dominique Persoone, the “Shock-o-latier” of Antwerp, who actually went out and invented a contraption that shoots chocolate powder up your nose (I tried one), I saw the light. Well, stars, anyway. One whopping chocolate buzz later and I was skittering through the rest of that city at a sprint. Weeee! Undiscovered Gem(s) World-class sugar rushes aside, why Antwerp doesn’t get more press is something of a mystery: It has a hammerlock on Euro-fashion and an outright 38

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chokehold on the diamond industry (80 percent of the world’s rough diamonds—a whopping $16 billion—pass through the city’s Diamond District each year) on top of being Europe’s second largest port and third most ethnically diverse city. It’s sorta the place to be. Then again, the Sinjoren—and that is what “Antwerpians” are called—may like a little mystery: Antwerp is also one of the most sacked cities in Europe. A walk along the Meir, the old city’s central boulevard, is a walk through an architectural time warp. Beau Arts, Rococo, Mid-Century Modern, Greek Revival, Late Medieval, Belle Epoch and Baroque all pony up to each other in what seems like a palatial version of musical chairs. A relatively tranquil place today, Antwerp was once the center of the “fare”—as in “warfare.” Hotly contested for by surrounding empires, this city in northern Belgium was routinely on the wrong end of a bombing campaign. But with each new crater, the people built a masterpiece in the style of the age (urban renewal at its finest!). And “Sinjoren” just proves the point; it comes from “señores,” a throwback to when the city came into the vise-like grip of Spain in the 1500s and www.gaycationmagazine.com

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which, rather annoyingly, razed the city to the ground in a paroxysm of violence so intense it was later called the Spanish Fury. But the Fury had one of those odd silver linings: Because Antwerp never recovered from it, the city stayed small. Today, that smallness means everything is close to everything else. Throw on some good shoes (those cobblestones are murder) and the city is your oyster. Winding Road And there were more than a few pearls to be found. A visual punch to the face, the sheer grandeur of the Meir, lined with palaces and guild houses, was so striking I think I hurt something (my camera finger). But more than a photoop, the Meir as a feature went a long way in keeping my bearings. Like a lot of Old World cities, Antwerp grew organically when it wasn’t being blown to smithereens; the layout reminded me of that bundle of wires behind my computer desk. The Meir, the spires of the Church of Our Lady (so tall they funnel high-altitude wind down to street-level, creating a mini-vortex), the Rubenshuis (home and shrine to favorite son Peter Paul Rubens) and the Carolus Borromeuskerk basilica (whose ceiling dazzled with 39 paintings by Rubens…until it went up in flames in 1718) serve as lighthouses in an otherwise sloshy street grid. Although this is a city where getting lost opens up a world of charm over kitsch, culture over pre-fab tourist traps. But I did have to ask myself: What is up with all the disembodied hands? Put Your Hands in the Air Big hands, little hands, bleeding hands, chocolate hands—weee! I’m all for the gleefully ghoulish, but this 40

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was 50 Shades of Hannibal. But in following the Meir to its full length, I got the 411. The boulevard opens up into the Grote Markt, the grand square of town. Lined with old trading guild halls with gold-covered emblems up top and gold-standard cafés down below, fronted by the muscular, flag-bedecked Stadhuis (City Hall), it is centered around one showstopper of a statue. It depicts, in all his Greco-Roman glory, Silvius Brabo, the legendary centurion in his moment of triumph over the giant Druon Antigoon, who cut off hands as payment for crossing the Scheldt River. After an epic battle, Brabo sliced off Antigoon’s hand and flung it into the water for good measure. The spot where it all went down was called Hand Wearpan—“to throw the hand”— from which “A nt werpen,” the native Flemish name for Antwerp, derives. Consequently, disembodied hands became so associated with Antwerp, even making it on the coat of arms, that not seeing one is something of a feat. And then another brainwave hit: Boy, is this a gay town. Nomi vs. Crystal That might sound like an odd segue, but when I turned around from Brabo, I found myself facing Bonaparte, a gay café with a rainbow banner running down its entire façade, right across from the Stadhuis. Watch out, Amsterdam: Antwerp is coming down the stairs behind you. No, literally—I did a little digging and found out Antwerp really is trying to bump off Amsterdam as Europe’s King of the Gay Hill. Wanting to make a bigger splash, Antwerp cannonballed into the international gay scene when it hosted the World OutGames in 2013. And why not? We’ve been “legal” here since 1795, and it is absolutely a non-issue, so much so that some straight bars have a rainbow flag sticker in the window, which led www.gaycationmagazine.com

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to a bit of confusion. The most trouble I had was forgetting that in Belgium you kiss on the cheek three times; I did the two-kiss thing and found myself getting yanked back for number three. The Stadspark, the triangular green space across from my hotel, the Hotel Leopold, is (in)famous for being one of the cruisiest stretches of forest in Antwerp (and makes the Leopold, already very luxurious and well-placed, also very convenient). The city is absolutely spangled with gay clubs, bars, saunas, and a fourth category that blends the first three, and here is where Antwerp’s compact, condensed layout really shines: you can walk to all of them from all of them in a gay pub-club crawl for the ages. But the emphasis is on “crawl.” Like a lot of European cities, Antwerp has no gay section. Things get a little more concentrated the nearer one gets to the Scheldt River in the old part of town—probably because everything is concentrated the nearer one gets to the Scheldt River in the old part of town—but there isn’t much rhyme or reason. Bonaparte is in the main plaza, D-Club and Red & Blue by the dockyards, and The Boots is in the middle of it all near the fabulously modern Museum am der Stroom. But be warned! Remember that “fourth category” I mentioned? That’s no joke: in Antwerp, there are bars and then there are leer-in kinky bars. Guess which one The Boots is?

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Taking in the Town But for the most part, I kept my paws to myself and after learning the labyrinthine streets, got lost all over again on purpose—it is the best way to find the city’s quirky treasures. What other city has a tipple all to itself? In what is possibly the only usage of French I would dare in this proudly Flemish-speaking city, Elixir d’Anvers (Anvers is the French name for Antwerp) is a potent and surefire way to get down with the natives. One day I dawdled through the Vlaeykensgang, whose fame as the most famous alleyway in Antwerp belies the fact it is nearly impossible to find. Away from the crowds on the Meir, I was suddenly by myself, wandering through narrow passageways, sunny little courtyards, and narrow passageways again. I could have stepped back a century. The Vlaeykensgang empties into the De Groot Witte Arend, a charming and very old beer hall, and I settled down for a liberal sampling of the liquid assets of town. And after taking a swig of a cherry-infused variety, and putting it into context of what I’ve had to force down in America, I can honestly say that Antwerp in one fell swoop spoiled me for both chocolate and beer. Well played, Antwerp. Well played.

David Perry danced with the dead in Japan, raced on horseback across the Western Desert to Saqqara, and kayak-surfed the Irish Sea in gale-force winds. Called “one of the most recognized and wellrespected travel writers for the North American LGBT market,” with work appearing in Instinct Magazine, Out.com, Connextions Magazine, and the EDGE Media Network, he is a firm believer that fabulousness can be found anywhere. Even in gale-force winds.

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Submission Guidelines Editorial Features What was I thinking?: Stories submitted by Gaycationers about crazy experiences that left them scratching their heads and opining, “What was I thinking?”

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There’s This Place JOSHUA TREE, CALIFORNIA

By Michelle McCarthy Photos by Michelle McCarthy and Courtney McKinnon

nyone who lives in a major metropolitan area will feel the need to get away from it all at some point— when the daily grind makes you feel like you’re on an assembly line of life, a little verse/chorus/repeat. I love my hometown of Los Angeles, even with its smog, traffic and nearly 4 million inhabitants contributing to a nonstop hustle and bustle. But my 70-mile daily commute up and down the 405 got to be too much and I was feeling the need to retreat to the middle of nowhere; somewhere still and quiet where I could collect my thoughts. If there was a little hippie-dippy woo-woo self-discovery thrown in, all the better. I could think of no better place to fit that description than the desert. It just so happens that Joshua Tree sits quietly waiting like a wise old aunt for visitors to take everything it has to offer, and it’s only a two-hour drive from L.A. Like any place you’re heading to from the City of Angels, it’s paramount that you leave early. My wife and 48

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I got up with the birds and hit the road so we could miss the early-morning rush—and it paid off with a seamless and quick jaunt. Within an hour, we’d left the big city behind and were able to take a deep breath in. Before we knew it, we’d passed the Cabazon dinosaurs and were amongst the windmills off the 10 Freeway and almost at our destination. As you make your ascent to the high desert, you’ll come across Yucca Valley, the town that sits adjacent to Joshua Tree along 29 Palms Highway. In doing some pre-trip research for cool roadside attractions, we found Desert Christ Church Park in Yucca, which houses a nondenominational statue garden that depicts Jesus’ life. The more than 40 snow-white pieces were created by sculptor Frank Antone from 1951-61 as a tribute to world brotherhood and peace. Two standouts at the location are the tiny Rock Chapel and a rendering of the Last Supper with a cutout that allows you to poke your head through and take a photo with the man himself. After a couple hours on the road, we were ready for lunch and, as we came to find out, while Joshua Tree isn’t home to a ton of culinary choices, the spots it does have are pretty tasty. This town is quirky, and that applies to its food as well. For instance, we stopped at Sam’s Pizza—for Indian food. Really good Indian food. While you can get pizza, subs and even Indian pizza at Sam’s, we opted for the straight-up Indian fare and were plenty pleased with the garlic naan, samosas, channa masala and aloo mattar. Other eateries worth sampling are Pie for the People for pizza, Country Kitchen for breakfast and Pappy & Harriet’s in neighboring Pioneertown for burgers or Tex-Mex and some down-home live entertainment in the evening. Fueled up, it was time to hit the Noah Purifoy Outdoor Museum, which offers free admission, much like almost all sites we encountered in the desert. Joshua Tree is chock-full of art and nature, and the vibe here is that both should be readily available to the public. This outdoor museum sits on 10 acres at the end of a dirt road and consists of more than 100 assemblage sculptures created by Mr. Purifoy. The Joshua Tree resident by way of Alabama largely used reclaimed material in his artwork. Old TVs, broken bowling balls and leaning shanties come together to form beautiful provocative art meant to raise www.gaycationmagazine.com

awareness of social and economic inequities. “From the Point of View of the Little People” shows a row of elevated legs that represents the position of the have-nots in our culture. “Shelter” uses actual debris from the Watts Riots and serves as commentary on homelessness. There is a box at the entrance of the museum containing info that can be used for a self-guided tour. Give yourself some time to fully explore the incredible work here—it took us about an hour and a half to make our way through it all. Already dusty from the desert landscape, we headed to our rental, a two-bedroom, two-bath house with a full kitchen, smart TV, barbecue and fire pit on five acres for only $250 a night. Surf VRBO or Airbnb for similar rentals, or you can stay at a smattering of hotels throughout the city. We rested up and went outside once the sun went down “...while Joshua Tree isn’t to witness the most amazing sky full of endless stars either of us home to a ton of culinary choices, had ever seen. the spots it does have are pretty The following day, it was time for a little new-age desert tasty. This town is quirky, and magic. The Integratron in Landers (about a 20-minute drive that applies to its food as well...” from Joshua Tree) is a dome-like building designed by George Van Tassel in the ’50s. He said aliens who picked him up in their spacecraft told him exactly where to build it; his dream was to use the facility as a vessel for time travel. The structure, which was www.gaycationmagazine.com

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constructed without the use of nails or screws, is now used to give visitors “sound baths,” in which the outer rims of quartz bowls are played to create frequencies that align the body’s chakras. We sat for a session and were lulled to the edge of sleep. Make a reservation ahead of time; it is often booked up to three months in advance. Robert Plant and Jason Mraz have recorded vocals at the Integratron. The place is gorgeous on the inside, and the acoustics are alluring. If you’re more into physical than mental activity, be sure to pack your hiking boots because there are trails all over Joshua Tree. Definitely set aside at least a full day to explore Joshua Tree National Park. You can purchase a seven-day vehicle permit for $15 that gives you access to the park’s 1,234 square miles, where you can hike, rock climb, mountain bike, view wildflowers, take a geology tour and much more. Right outside the entrance to the national park is the World Famous Crochet Museum, which sits at the back of the Art Queen compound. Blink and you may miss it, as the building fits two people at a time max. Just look for a bright, lime green structure that resembles an old-

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time television. Inside you’ll find crochet renderings of all your favorite characters, including Bert and Ernie, Snoopy, Winnie the Pooh and Piglet. Admission is free and no one mans the stand, so go ahead and let yourself in (donations are welcome). Since we were loving desert living, we wanted to see all that the region had to offer. That called for a day trip about two hours south of Joshua Tree to the Salton Sea area. This one-time resort hotspot is now better known for its sulfuric smell and locales that house free-thinking, off-grid inhabitants. Our first stop was Salvation Mountain, an art installation created by Leonard Knight as a tribute to God. A quick climb to the top reveals a perfect view of the entirety of the bright and colorful piece. Right around the corner is the entrance to Slab City, which was featured in the film Into the Wild. The former WWII Marine barracks is now home to artists, misfits and those who have rejected society’s norms. We’d heard warnings that Slab City could be dangerous, but we encountered a community of friendly and warm people. Make sure you stop by East Jesus art collective. (There is no religious affiliation; the name simply means

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youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in the middle of nowhere.) Free guided tours are available so you can check out the collection of witty and thought-provoking art. After four full days of adventure and discovery, our time had come to a close. We were half tempted to give up city life and pitch a tent in Slab City, but then reality set in and we hit the road back home. Still, there was a sense of peace and rejuvenation from our desert experience that we took back with us to the rat race.

Michelle McCarthy fell in love with travel during a crosscountry Amtrak journey with her family at the age of 7. She always plans her next excursion on the plane ride home from vacation to fight off the end-of-trip blues. Her favorite adventures include bungee jumping in New Zealand, soaking in the Caribbean on a remote island off the coast of Colombia and drinking homemade kava in Hawaii with a former fire dancer for the king of Samoa. Countries on her bucket list include Iceland, Sweden and Thailand.

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The quick Style Guide to Brooklyn, Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Capital by Kelsy Chauvin of Cool

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Traveling

the world and writing about it is arguably the greatest job ever. But I live in Brooklyn, ground zero of trends that touch worldwide fashion, flavors, design, shopping, artâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;even gardening. So my trips away from this hotbed of hip leave me wishing for more time to explore all the scintillating offerings on tap in my home borough. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to sample some of the goods and share the insider tips with travelers ready to hit the pavement running.

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Brooklyn Basics If it were a standalone city, Brooklyn would be the country’s third-largest city with 2.6 million residents. (After Los Angeles and Chicago—and FYI, even the borough of Queens is more populous than Manhattan by about a million.) That figure, plus the fact that the average age of Brooklynites is mid-30s, means there’s a whole lot of talent and style injected into daily life. Much of the youthful, queer-friendly energy is centered in Williamsburg, Bushwick and Greenpoint, all sizable neighborhoods served primarily by the L subway line. They’re slightly cheaper than picturesque “brownstone Brooklyn” neighborhoods like Park Slope, Fort Greene, Brooklyn Heights and Cobble Hill, but all of them are areas closest to the East River, and therefore the shortest subway rides from Manhattan. Much further out are real-deal old-school neighborhoods like Brighton Beach and Coney Island. To make the most of a visit to Brooklyn, those L-train ‘hoods are a good launchpad to get a handle on LGBT Brooklyn. For stylistically appropriate accommodations, Williamsburg’s Wythe Hotel is the chic spot with the requisite exposed brick, beautiful staff and 70 artfully 54

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designed rooms. If you’re not ready for the high-end price tags (around $500/night in high season), then drop in for craft cocktails and stunning views from the sexy rooftop bar, or a seasonally inspired meal at Reynard. Shopaholics Without exaggeration, Brooklyn is home to some of the best independently owned shops in the world. Along corridors like Williamsburg’s Bedford Avenue between Grand Street and McCarren Park, you can discover all manner of small-batch, custom-made, one-of-a-kind and perfectly vintage items you never knew you absolutely had to have. Personally, I’m a sucker for great repurposed or recycled goods and clothes. The Brooklyn Flea is one of the all-time most impressive mashups of high and low retail culture, with everything from $5 doughnuts and $1,000 reclaimed-wood coffee tables, to bona-fide fleamarket finds like costume jewelry and vintage sunglasses. The Flea has grown exponentially since its 2008 launch, and now has multiple locations and seasonal bazaars, as well as its affiliated Smorgasburg all-food markets. RePop in Billyburg is the best for housewares and antiques, with such a funky-cool space it’s worth a stop www.gaycationmagazine.com

enterprising Brooklynites.” There are many stellar shopping and dining strips in the borough, top among them are Park Slope’s 5th and 7th avenues, Cobble Hill’s Court and Smith streets, and Prospect Height’s Vanderbilt Avenue—all of them easily accessible by transit. DUMBO is sort of the odd man out for transit, but once you figure out how to get there via the F or A/C trains, you’ll find a rich assortment of shops, cafés, bars and one of the best views in the entire city from Brooklyn Bridge Park. Local Eats Speaking of DUMBO (a wacky acronym for Down just to marvel at the vast mid-century assortment. For vintage duds, it’s Beacon’s Closet all the way. The store has locations in Bushwick, Park Slope, Greenpoint and a new outpost in Manhattan, plus a huge assortment of styles and sizes at decent prices. DNA Footwear is another Brooklyn mini-chain, with six locations and one in Manhattan. Not only does its inventory include fab kicks, hats and accessories, it has great sales too. Of course, you might be in the market for Brooklyncentric gear. Though it’s been around long enough to have a devoted following and many stores, Brooklyn Industries is still the go-to shop for great bags/ backpacks, fashionable men’s and women’s wear and

reliably cool T-shirts and hoodies. Taking the concept of all-things-Brooklyn way further is By Brooklyn, whose two brick-and-mortar outposts in Williamsburg and Carroll Gardens are stuffed exclusively with products and art made in Brooklyn. Owner Gaia DiLoreto sums up her store in the same way one might explain the borough’s overall artistic-commercial complex: “By Brooklyn heralds the wealth of creative talent, artistry, determination to growing Brooklyn by www.gaycationmagazine.com

Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass), savvy gay Brooklynites enjoy two standouts in this landmarked, cobblestoned district. Superfine is a long-running hotspot where you can spend hours shooting pool, shooting the breeze with cute bartenders and friendly patrons, and eating well-built, relatively affordable dishes that change with the seasons. A short jaunt north of DUMBO to the historic Vinegar Hill area brings you to Vinegar Hill House. This romantic restaurant is a delicious balance of fine dining and casual atmosphere, with amazingly good everything. It can be pricey, but the $25 to $30 you’ll pay for an entrée here is so much more satisfying considering the uber-local, full-bodied ingredients, at least compared with nondescript Manhattan restaurants charging the same for utterly forgettable meals. And if the wait is long (reservations are limited), cocktails and wine on the little patio is an excellent way to pass the time. Maybe you’ve heard, but Brooklyn is a bit of a foodie town. So on beyond these two gems are so many more outstanding restaurants it’s impossible Gaycation Magazine

Newer clubs now finding their thumping groove are This n’ That and Love Gun. Both facilitate your flirtations with low lighting and hot bartenders. The former is a bit more of a dive bar with dancing and drink specials. The latter is an official nightclub with two stories, usually a cover charge and crowded dance floors into the wee hours. A bit further out in Bushwick, both Tandem and Lot 45 are upping their gay game. Tandem puts on bass-heavy DJs by night and booze-heavy brunches on weekends. At Lot 45, local-party promoter Hot Rabbit is now hosting weekly and monthly queer parties that will bump up Bushwick’s burgeoning homo reputation. It’s been more than a decade since the LGBT migration into Brooklyn. And it seems clear to those of us who washed in with the tide and don’t plan to leave, queer BK is here to stay. Explore in Style

to squeeze them all into one Brooklyn showcase. For timely resources that will point you to specialties like fantastic fried chicken at Pies ‘n’ Thighs, new-classic pizza at Franny’s and classic South-African fare at Madiba— turn to local resources like the L Magazine and Free Williamsburg for the latest reviews and hot tips. (On a side note, Madiba grows some of its produce and herbs in its roof garden; urban farming at its best!)

Citi Bike has blazed new trails for New Yorkers ready for an alternative to cabs, subways and hoofing it. In August, the amazingly successful service expanded to several more Brooklyn and Manhattan neighborhoods, making it even easier to cruise over the bridges and through the outer borough’s shady lanes. Consider a 24hour or seven-day pass to cruise NYC your way.

Dance ‘til You Drop All that youthful energy has to go somewhere, and in Brooklyn that means flirty nightlife across its diverse neighborhoods. Lesbian-owned, mixed-crowd Ginger’s in Park Slope is one of the city’s longtime favorites for drink deals, pool, karaoke nights and a cozy backyard. There are also regular queer dance nights at the Bell House in the emerging hipster ‘hood of Gowanus. Not surprisingly, Williamsburg has superseded “Dyke Slope” in LGBT popularity in recent years. What once was the only gay game around here, Metropolitan Bar is now one of several bar-club combos around here—though it’s still the only one with a huge outdoor/smoking space. 56

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Trip Planner Beacon’s Closet Multiple locations www.beaconscloset.com Bell House 149 7th St., Brooklyn, NY 11215 (718) 643-6510 www.thebellhouseny.com Brooklyn Bridge Park www.brooklynbridgepark.org Brooklyn Flea Multiple locations www.brooklynflea.com Brooklyn Industries Multiple locations www.brooklynindustries.com By Brooklyn Multiple locations www.shop.bybrooklyn.com Citi Bike www.citibikenyc.com

L Magazine www.thelmagazine.com Love Gun 617 Grand St., Brooklyn, NY 11211 (718) 388-3441 www.lovegunnyc.com Madiba 195 Dekalb Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11205 (718) 855-9190 www.madibarestaurant.com Metropolitan Bar 559 Lorimer St., Brooklyn, NY 11211 (718) 599-4444 www.metropolitanbarny.com

DNA Footwear Mulitple locations www.dnafootwear.com Franny’s 348 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11217 (718) 230-0221 www.frannysbrooklyn.com

Reynard 80 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11211 (718) 460-8004 www.reynardnyc.com

Free Williamsburg www.freewilliamsburg.com

Superfine 126 Front St., Brooklyn, NY 11201 (718) 243-9005 www.superfine.nyc

Hot Rabbit www.facebook.com/thehotrabbit www.gaycationmagazine.com

Vinegar Hill House 72 Hudson Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11201 (718) 522-1018 www.vinegarhillhouse.com Wythe Hotel 80 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11249 (718) 460-8000 www.wythehotel.com

Pies ‘n’ Thighs 166 S 4th St., Brooklyn, NY 11211 (347) 529-6090 www.piesnthighs.com RePop 143 Roebling St., Brooklyn, NY 11211 (718) 260-8032 www.repopny.com

Ginger’s 363 5th Ave., Park Slope, Brooklyn, NY 11215 (718) 788-0924 www.gingersbarbklyn.com

This n’ That 108 N 6th St., Brooklyn, NY 11211 (718) 599-5959 www.thisnthatbrooklyn.com

Tandem 236 Troutman St., New York, NY 11237 (718) 386-2369 www.tandembar.net

Kelsy Chauvin is a writer, editor and photographer based in Brooklyn. She specializes in travel, feature journalism, art, theater, architecture, construction and LGBT interests. Follow her on Instagram and Twitter at @kelsycc.

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Threads The latest style trends, insights and tips from our fashion experts for the world traveler in all of us

Fall Styles: Inside New York Fashion Week by Andrew Villagomez

All the conceptions you may have about attending a fashion week have totally been true. It can be a madhouse of Olympic proportions. When New York Fashion Week was at Lincoln Center, you couldn’t walk by the plaza area without passing by photographers snapping photos of stylish individuals (or aiming at you if they liked your look that day), attendees such as editors, media personalities, buyers and those working the shows racing through the crowds to get in and out of the venue and on to what’s next on their sureto-be-packed schedule, emerging talent such as new bloggers, fashion school students and other fashionistas without an invite looking to either get snapped or sneak in, and tourists curious as to what all the fuss is about. I’ve seen different aspects of what goes into a fashion week over the past couple of years as a blogger, writer and street style photographer, and though it is a lot of hustle and bustle, if it’s a passion of yours it’s all worth it. The shows and presentations take a lot of work and time to put together from what I’ve seen. Aside from the prearrangements prior to showtime, in the backstage area there are dozens of makeup artists and hair stylists working on the models to get them ready, the creative team is putting together final touches to a hundred different pieces while stylists are checking 58

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over the final looks, and then of course the designers themselves are overlooking everything. Thankfully everyone actually seems to have a good attitude, but there are the occasional blow-ups that reach reality TV show levels. But a favorite part of being backstage when I’m covering a show has been the personal touch it gives it, and getting to see the collection beforehand. Being surrounded by male models is of course a nice touch, too. Though I haven’t had a chance to get out to the European fashion weeks yet, I just completed my fifth New York Fashion Week season this summer with the birth of the first fashion week dedicated to American menswear design. There’s been mixed reviews about how the inaugural event went down, but in my opinion, having a separate week shows the strength of the American menswear industry and how men from all walks of style pay more attention to what they are putting on and finding their own personal style preferences— not being afraid to mix it up and try new things. And while the collections shown at New York Fashion Week: Men’s won’t be available for about six months, the fall and winter line has already started rolling in. N o t a b l e menswear trends for Fall 2015 according to Style. com across the board of both American and international fashion includes the growing trend of androgynous styling (more so across the pond than here in the www.gaycationmagazine.com

states), turtlenecks making a comeback, animal prints, the use of real and faux furs and shearling, triple layering and double outerwear, the staple of monochromatic uses and army green. The military tone isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only color for the fall season to look for. Others include burgundy, sand, beige and navy, and Banana Republic featured these colors for its menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fall lineup. Sporty and simple with a lot of versatility, the collection featured a burgundy jacket with plaid lining, a cozy cable-knit sweater, a camel sport coat with gray detail, a puffy navy jacket with a faux-fur hood, a wool blazer pieced together in blue plaid and gray wool, a charcoal suit in a

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Banana Republic Fall 2015

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Billy Reid Fall 2015

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Street Style

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large windowpane pattern, and a range of other men’s casuals that can be mixed and matched for smart and chic styling. Outerwear played a huge role in Bill Reid’s fall 2015 line. The Southern designer’s collection was all about texture derived from personal experiences and travel. Designed to include relaxed garments and moveable textiles, results included a wide-wale cord trench coat, hooded capes, a swoop wool tweed jacquard overcoat, a gold suede trench, a khaki rain poncho, a suede vest with a shearling interior and hawk printed pieces. If you’re looking for brighter pieces this fall, look to Lacoste and Perry Ellis. Winter tennis was the theme for Lacoste, featuring a mix of formal and street styling together. Along with colors such as gray, tan and kelly green, bright reds, teal and sky blue were incorporated. While at Perry Ellis, the brand remixed stylish work wear with a rugged utility. And while black, tan and neutrals were featured, bright reds and blues were also part of the collection, as well as bright, colorful camo-like pattern. A show favorite was a simple tan overcoat for its use of pattern in the interior.

Andrew Villagomez is a journalist, blogger and photographer based in the New York metropolitan area. He specializes in everything travel from LGBT, design and luxury, to food and drink and adventure, as well as men’s fashion and style, grooming, skincare and lifestyle tech. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter at @VeeTravels, and his blog at VeeTravels.com.

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RECOMMENDATIONS OF LGBTQ FRIENDLY HOTELS AND RESORTS THAT HELP YOU ENGAGE WITH THE IDENTITY OF A DESTINATION.

Madrid’s Óscar Hotel in the Heart of Chueca by David Brown

Madrid is one of the most gay-friendly cities in Europe and was the third country in the world to legalize same-sex marriage back in 2005. Often and mistakenly overlooked for Barcelona, this Spanish capital city has plenty to offer visitors and should be included more often on European itineraries. Its central location within Spain itself also makes it convenient to further explore other regions of the country. Chueca is the gay neighborhood in Madrid that embodies the city’s openminded and energetic atmosphere. Óscar, part of the Room Mate hotels, is located in Chueca and is an ideal and popular option for any LGBT traveler to the city. When you first walk into the small but open lobby you immediately get a feel for its bold, posh design. The staff is professional and polite and a mixture of straight and gay themselves. In fact, the president of the Room Mate 66

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Hotels is even openly gay. The Room Mate chain has 19 hotels total around the world in cities like New York, Mexico City, Barcelona and Amsterdam. They expect to continue growing and will be doubling their hotels in the coming years. In Madrid, the 74-room Óscar Hotel offers four main types of accommodations including standard rooms, deluxe rooms, junior suites and a single mini-suite and suite. The main difference between an interior standard room and a deluxe room is the view. The deluxe rooms and suites are exteriors and overlook Plaza Vázquez de Mella where the hotel is located. The interior of each room has a clean, crisp white base that’s bravely covered with a colorful and edgy modern design. The single main suite has a beautiful wraparound balcony overlooking the plaza and the mini-suite has a decent balcony as www.gaycationmagazine.com

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well with the same view. All the rooms come with the standard amenities such as free wifi throughout the hotel, a TV, minibar and all those small details necessary for a comfortable stay. A buffet breakfast can be included in your stay for an added price. The hotel lacks a proper restaurant of its own, but considering its location in the center of Madrid, there is no need. For those who like to workout to maintain a beach-ready body even during their vacation, the hotel has a contract with Gymage, a popular gay-friendly gym nearby, to allow their guests to use it with an additional cost of about $10. The real winning aspect to this hotel, apart from its superb location and gay-friendliness, is its rooftop terrace and pool. With Madrid’s lack of a beach or any noteworthy waterfront, Oscar’s rooftop pool is just the thing a visitor to the city needs to keep that summer glow. The stylish bar and cute servers invite both hotel guests and locals to the top of Óscar, officially called La Terrazza de Óscar, as it’s open to the public. The small terrace makes efficient use of the space with seats at little tables and loungers to relax by the pool. To use the pool, a paid reservation is required whether you’re a guest or not as there is limited space with a maximum occupancy of 28 people. Guests of the Óscar Hotel receive a reduced price for the pool at about $11 per room. The bar has a decent selection of moderately high-priced cocktails and a short list of cold snacks that guests can order as it has no kitchen. Be sure to try the Oscar cocktail, a gin and cava-based drink named after the hotel itself. The rooftop terrace is open year round, with the pool being covered up and replaced with artificial grass in the colder months. This unique spot 68

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above Óscar is truly a great place to mingle, relax in the warm Spanish sun, and admire the view over Chueca. The staff at Óscar is friendly and welcoming and will gladly help orientate you within the city to help you enjoy yourself just as much outside the hotel as inside. Upon leaving the hotel and exploring the neighborhood, you’ll quickly realize that it is a perfect place to stay during a visit to Madrid. It’s the pulse of the LGBT community in Madrid and contains some of the best restaurants the city has to offer. There are multiple plazas to sit and enjoy tapas, restaurants for fine dining, bakeries, coffee shops and late-night pizza options for those wild nights out, as Madrid is also known for its crazy party scene. The most popular gay bars and clubs plus regular monthly parties and events take place in Chueca or closely in and around the center. Fuencarral is the street that forms the west border of Chueca and is one of the best shopping streets in the city with stores like Levi’s, Swarovski, Diesel, and Mercado de Fuencarral, a small shopping center with great boutiques and alternative shops. The south border of Chueca is formed by Gran Via, a large street in the center also popular for shopping. Here you’ll find stores like H&M, Zara, Lacoste, and Nike. With the many shops, restaurants, museums and sights situated nearby, the Óscar Hotel can be the ideal place to base yourself in the city, and it’s an affordable option for what it offers. Its average of 90 percent occupancy year round speaks to its popularity and value. During the 2015 Madrid gay Pride—the largest gay Pride in all of Europe—it was booked out completely. Though it is surprisingly a three-star hotel, it maintains a high standard and quality that can stand against most www.gaycationmagazine.com

four-star hotels. Madrid is a delightful destination year round and Ă&#x201C;scar in the city center is definitely the place to stay for LGBT and straight travelers alike to make the most of their visit. Room Mate Oscar Plaza VĂĄzquez de Mella 12, Madrid 28004 +34 912 179 289 oscar@room-matehotels.com David is a part-time English teacher and part-time freelance travel writer based in Madrid. He grew up in Phoenix before leaving for Chicago where he spent a few years with his husband. Soon after, they sold their belongings to travel the world and have been doing so for the past three years. He and his husband manage the travel blog TwoBadTourists.com, where you can find information on gay travel events, tips, and stories.

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Gaycationers Meet some of the incredible people that have become part of our family of gaycationers. They can usually be spotted pretty easily by their warm smiles and willing-to-help attitude when you arrive in their towns or cities. Here are just a few that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen. Have you seen any lately? If so, send a photo to editor@gaycationmagazine.com

Snorkelling with Stefan and Sebastian. Photo courtesy of Nomadic Boys.

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Spa Loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ritual. Photo courtesy of Nomadic Boys. www.gaycationmagazine.com

Stefan and Sebastian having a bubble bath. Photo courtesy of Nomadic Boys. Gaycation Magazine

An Explicit Guide to Gaycationing EXPLORING EUROPE BY TRAIN WITH THE EURAIL PASS By David Brown

Of the many ways there are to travel this ever increasingly smaller world of ours, train travel is undoubtedly one of the best options. Airports can have overwhelming hurdles to tackle just to get on a crowded and uncomfortable flight. Buses are even more of a nightmare with little room and a long journey. When visiting Europe, traveling by train is simply a must. Their sophisticated and well-connected railways are an experience in themselves and inherently part of European culture. Plus train travel in Europe is convenient, comfortable, and reliable. One of the best options to travel by train in Europe is to purchase the Eurail pass. This is a pass that gives nearly unlimited access to just about all major European railways. There are four main options to choose from, ranging from a single country pass to the global pass which includes travel in up to 28 countries. This allows you to pick the option for railway travel that best fits 72

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your trip. Detailed information on how to choose and purchase passes, make reservations, and extra benefits of the pass like free ferry rides can be found online at eurail.com. Once you have chosen and received a Eurail pass, there are some things to note. For example, many countries in Western Europe like Spain, Italy and France will require a seat reservation to be made before boarding the train, which includes an extra fee. The Eurostar connecting London, Paris and Brussels is not included in the Eurail pass, but a ‘pass holder’ fare may be available. This should be compared to standard fares to determine which is more cost-effective. A firstclass ticket versus a second-class ticket is mostly the difference in seat comfort as the first-class seat is a bit wider with more leg room, but overall second-class seats have quite an acceptable standard. However, if you’d really like to travel in first-class style www.gaycationmagazine.com

on a European railway, there are some ways to do so. The AVE in Spain, Thalys connecting Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and Cologne, and Lyria connecting France to Switzerland have premier trains that include food and beverage service at your seat, in addition to seats with more room and cars with less people. Access to lounges at many of the train stations is usually included in the first-class ticket, allowing you to maximize on your comfort experience. When purchasing a Eurail pass, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not just purchasing a railway ticket. You are purchasing a European experience. The Eurail website even has sample itineraries for you to make the most of your trip. Would you like to see all the main highlights in Western Europe including Paris, Barcelona, and Rome? Or perhaps Eastern Europe is more exotic with connections between the Czech Republic, Austria, and Romania. There are also railway lines that are better known for their scenic routes to enjoy mountainous landscapes, deep valleys, and gorgeous coastlines. The Glacier Express route in Switzerland offers captivating views through the Swiss Alps. Between Italy and Switzerland, the Centovalli Railway runs through the Hundred Valleys. The Rhine Valley Line is like a riverside cruise along vineyards in Germany. These and many other great routes are worth considering when planning a railway trip through Europe. With so many great options in destinations, sights, travel styles, and train lines, a Eurail pass can really help create an unforgettable European experience.

David is a parttime English teacher and parttime freelance travel writer based in Madrid. He grew up in Phoenix before leaving for Chicago where he spent a few years with his husband. Soon after, they sold their belongings to travel the world and have been doing so for the past three years. He and his husband manage the travel blog TwoBadTourists.com, where you can find information on gay travel events, tips, and stories.

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Crossword

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Solution can be found on page 82

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MUST-HAVE TRAVEL ITEMS FOR EVERYONE FROM THE NOVICE WEEKENDER TO THE SEASONED GLOBETROTTER.

Cork Globe Track your travels in three dimensional style with this striking cork globe. Brimming with inspiration for your next wayfaring adventure, the cork design and included pushpins let you map out your latest journey, showcase the places you've been, or even attach pictures, tickets, and mementos to special spots around the world. Perfect for bringing a scholarly touch to your library or desktop, this interactive design lets you celebrate the beauty beyond your backyard. Comes with 5 red push pins. Made in China. www.uncommongoods.com/product/cork-globe $129.00

Olloclip iPhone Camera Lens System Using Olloclip is easy! Slide it on over your iPhone's rear camera lens and you're ready to take amazing photos and videos. The fisheye lens captures a nearly 180 degree field-of-view. The wide-angle lens doubles the field of view of the iPhone camera. Finally, the macro lenses let you focus the iPhone within 12-15mm of your subject and applies a 10X or 15X multiplier. Olloclip's storage bag even doubles as a microfiber cleaning cloth for the ultimate in convenience. www.thinkgeek.com/product/eba9/?srp=30 $69.99

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Reef Stash Sandals By law, any hotel stay within 5 miles of a beach requires at least one 15-minute toe-dipping session. But keeping an eye on pocketfuls of accumulated travel crud (hotel keys, credit card, crumpled $20 bills) usually results in a less-than relaxing experience, with constant glances back at your towel to make sure no one has found your genius hiding spaceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;under the towel. Stash sandals are comfortable enough to wear on the beach, but their real utility is as a mobile safe. The secret tray in the sole slides out to hold personal items and slides back in to make sure no one knows they're there. It's something Q might have cooked up if Bond ever decided to take up surfing. http://slotflops.com/ $45.00

SleepPhones SleepPhones are the world's most comfortable headphones for sleeping. The luxuriously soft headband contains thin removable speakers to play any type of music, audiobooks, meditation, white noise, or talk radio. It plugs into any audio device with the standard 3.5mm (1/8 inch) headphone jack. Regular headphones and ear buds are simply not comfortable to wear all night long. SleepPhones are fully padded with nothing sticking into the ears and comfortable even for side sleepers. Lightweight, washable, hypoallergenic, and RoHS/CE compliant with the highest standards for electronics, SleepPhones come with a 1 year manufacturer's warranty and satisfaction guarantee. www.sleepphones.com/Buy-SleepPhones $59.95 www.gaycationmagazine.com

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The Narrative Clip A new kind of photographic memory, The Narrative Clip is a tiny, automatic camera and app that gives you a searchable and shareable photographic memory. Capture, store and relive special moments with the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smallest wearable camera. The Narrative Clip only weighs 20 grams (0.7 oz) and measures 36x36x9 mm (1.42x1.42x0.35 inches). With a storage capacity of 8000 pictures and battery life for 2 days of use, you can be sure to never miss a moment! Just plug it in to your computer to transfer all your images and recharge the batteries. www.getnarrative.com/narrative-clip-1 $199.99

Planet Traveler SpaceCase 1 Experience the future of travel. All Mia Toro luggage is fully upgradable. Once you download the Planet Traveler app you will have the option in the future to build or upgrade your connected smart luggage. Below are some features: GLOBAL TRACKING Never worry about losing your luggage again. Know the location of your luggage at all times through the global tracking device. BLUE SCALE You never need to worry about overweight fees again. Know the weight of your luggage through the blue-tooth scale and associated app. www.miatoro.com/connected-luggage.html

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Pacsafe Venturesafe 325 Crossbody Pack Roomy enough for an iPad® or tablet plus all your inflight essentials, this Pacsafe® crossbody is perfect as both a carry-on and a daypack. It's loaded with antitheft features, including an RFID-blocking front zip pocket that safeguards your passport, credit cards and ID. Made of durable, water-resistant 400-denier nylon oxford and 210-denier nylon, it's reinforced with steel eXomesh® slashguards and pickpocket-deterring Smart Zipper Security™. To foil grab-and-go thieves, the adjustable Carrysafe® shoulder strap has slashproof steel cabling and dual-release buckles. The roomy inside has one mesh zip pocket and one slip pocket; one hidden security pocket outside. Padded back panel enhances comfort. Use the latch-point loop to lock the bag to a stationary object. Imported. 9¼"W x 3½"D x 16¼"H; tapered strap extends from 40"L to 53¾"L. 16.2 oz. Internal volume: 365 cu. in. w w w.travelsmith.com /pac s afe -ventures afe -325 crossbody-pack /travel-accessories/toprated-travelaccessories/776071 $95.00

The Two-Person Sandless Beach Mat Developed for military use, this is the beach mat that is impossible to cover with sand. Used in military applications to contain sand and dust when helicopters land and take off, the mat is made from two layers of patented woven polyurethane that instantly filter sand to the beach as soon as it falls on its surface. The specially woven polyurethane acts as a one-way filter to prevent sand from reemerging through the bottom of the mat. The 36’ sq. mat also eliminates dirt, dust, and water from its surface, ensuring a perpetually clean outdoor expanse for camping or watching a concert. The ripstop polyurethane construction resists abrasions from outdoor furniture or pets, the bound edges remain flat, and the mat won’t absorb moisture, preventing mold and mildew. Metal D-rings on each corner accommodate ground stakes (not included). Folds to fit in the included travel bag. Blue. 6’ W x 6’ D. (3 3/4 lbs.) www.hammacher.com/product/81157 $59.95 www.gaycationmagazine.com

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Advertising Index Here’s a list of FABULOUS people that want you to visit. So much so, they wanted to be in Gaycation Magazine! if you’re interested in reaching a fiercely loyal audience, then contact us at sales@gaycationmagazine.com. Atlantic Escapes 14 Blue Chairs 32 Casa Cupula 32 Cruise Planners 77 Equator 32 Evolve 86 Floris Suite Hotel 83 Gay Key West 2, 3 Gay Tours Ibiza 9 Gregory Kiep Marketing Solutions 64 IGLTA 15 Island House Resort 44 Maui Sunseeker Resort 85 Mayan Explorer 76 Miami LGBT Center 33 Moose Meadow Lodge 14 Nuits St. Pierre 17 OutClique 16 Outings and Adventures 84 Pink Banana Media 24

Provincetown 10 Purple roofs 9 Rainbow Tourism 16 The Word 10 Zenbiz Travel 65

Solution to Crossword on page 75

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