Canyon Views Spring/Summer 2023 Vol.30 No.2

CANYON VIEWS

Canyon Views is published by Grand Canyon Conservancy (GCC). As the official philanthropic and collaborative partner of Grand Canyon National Park, GCC’s mission is to inspire generations of park champions to cherish and support the natural and cultural wonder of Grand Canyon.

For more information about Grand Canyon Conservancy, please visit grandcanyon.org.

Board of Directors:

Mitchell Walker, Board Chair; Shantini Munthree, Board Vice Chair; Lizabeth Ardisana; Ann Becker; Randall Brown; Awenate Cobbina; Jason Coochwytewa; Aaron Craft; Ann West Figueredo; Nigel Finney; Deborah Gage; Charlie Galbraith; Alejandra Lillo; Carissa Rollins; Rich Rudow; Mick Rusing; Stephanie Sklar; Stan Sutherland; Merl Waschler; Tyson Winarski

Chief Executive Officer: Theresa McMullan

Director of Marketing & Communications and Canyon Views Editor: Mindy Riesenberg

Graphic Design by Charla Keyaanie

Printing by Prisma

Copyright © 2023 Grand Canyon Conservancy

Cover photo courtesy of NPS/Michael Quinn

From the CEO

DEAR FRIENDS,

I’ve only seen a Kaibab squirrel once. It was during a hike to Cape Final in July 2014. Although it was a very quick sighting, I decided right then and there that it was the cutest creature I’d ever seen. With its big ears and the contrast between its fat black body and fluffy white tail, it was adorable.

I’ve been back to the North Rim many times, and as I wander its trails, I’m always looking for but never finding a Kaibab squirrel. Seeking one more sighting is only one of the experiences that draws me to the North Rim.

Like many of you, I find its slower pace, cooler climate, and beautiful vistas delightful. Viewing the stars from Bright Angel Point or watching a monsoon storm from the Grand Canyon Lodge can inspire and ignite a sense of wonder.

This issue of Canyon Views is all about the North Rim, including the deep cultural and spiritual connection of the Southern Paiute, trails and sights, wildlife, and the many unique challenges in managing and maintaining this remote location.

Grand Canyon Conservancy

P.O. Box 399

Grand Canyon, AZ 86023-0399

(800) 858-2808

grandcanyon.org

If you’ve never visited the North Rim, I hope you’ll be inspired to do so. And, if you’ve been many times, I hope you’ll learn something new and find a reason to come back—maybe to spot that elusive Kaibab squirrel.

Until then, thanks for spending a little time with Canyon Views

Theresa McMullan Chief Executive Officer

Ifirst experienced the Grand Canyon from the North Rim as a tourist in 1994. My husband Scot Rogerson and I were touring the great American Southwest when I was between jobs with the U.S. Army and the Department of the Interior’s legal office (long before we were married). Like so many people who first see the canyon, I was gobsmacked by its grandeur. I vividly remember walking up to the rim and taking it in for the first time . . . for a long time. I concluded during that first visit that the Grand Canyon is evidence of the Divine. I continue to believe that after living here for three years.

Perhaps unlike most tourists, I had the random thought during my first visit that the Grand Canyon would be an amazing place to live and

A Message from Ed

By Ed Keable, Superintendent, Grand Canyon National Park

work. Twenty-six years later, the Secretary of the Interior called me into his office to ask me to take on the responsibilities of Superintendent of Grand Canyon National Park. My boss in the Department’s legal office at the time gave me a 24-hour notice that the Secretary might ask me that question. So, after talking with Scot the night before, I quickly said yes when the Secretary asked me to come here. I have never regretted that decision.

The North Rim holds a special place for me since it is where I first experienced the Grand Canyon, and because that random thought I had there about living and working here became very real.

Truthfully, the North Rim is special for everyone who goes there because

it is such a remarkable place. With its Alpine scenery, bison herd, and 1,000-foot higher elevation, the North Rim presents our visitors with a wholly different experience from the South Rim, including remarkable canyon vistas and trails.

Winter visits the North Rim more robustly than the South Rim due to its higher elevation. Over 250 inches of snow fell there this winter. The small but hearty staff that winters over on the North Rim are a special breed of people.

The park has started to undertake a series of long-overdue construction projects to address deferred maintenance on the North Rim. This includes work on the water supply at Roaring Springs, the water pipeline,

water pumps to get the water to the rim, the water treatment facility, the wastewater treatment plant, and power and communications systems.

We historically have operated the North Rim for six months because the infrastructure must be winterized to prevent freeze damage. This extensive infrastructure construction may allow the park to extend our North Rim season. We might even be able to extend our operations on the North Rim year-round if we take other necessary infrastructure steps.

All this work could create new winter recreation opportunities for our visitors. The park will engage in a public planning process to consider the future of North Rim operations, so look for opportunities to weigh in.

And then there is Tuweep, the park’s western outpost on the North Rim. The park’s 1995 General Management Plan (GMP) identified day-use limits at Tuweep to preserve the uncrowded and rustic experience dominated by nature and solitude. Since the 1995 GMP, however, visitation has increased at Tuweep by 250%. So, the park implemented a managed-access

pilot program in July 2022 to manage visitor day-use throughout the remote Tuweep area of the park (Toroweep Valley and Kanab Plateau). That managed-access pilot is helping us to understand better how to preserve the natural solitude of Tuweep.

With all this activity on the North Rim, I have decided to re-establish a North Rim Unit Manager (NRUM) position. This position has been vacant for over a decade, but I have come to believe that it is necessary for me to properly manage operations there. The NRUM is my representative on the North Rim. He serves as my eyes and ears, making sure I am fully aware of operations, including challenges and opportunities. He coordinates work between North Rim work units and with the leadership team on the South Rim. He assists me with strategic planning work, including visitor use planning. And he helps me to manage relationships with external parties interested in North Rim operations, such as tribal and local government leaders.

I was lucky to hire Matt Jenkins for the newly re-established NRUM position. Matt most has served

as the North Rim District Ranger since 2020. Before that, he held multiple positions in the park as a law enforcement officer and in our science division, including in the inner canyon and on the river. He is the perfect person to serve in this important role.

There is a lot happening on the North Rim, and this flurry of activity reflects my commitment to making sure it’s a fully integrated part of the park.

Grand Canyon National Park is so much more than the South Rim, where the vast majority of our visitors experience the Grand Canyon. Matt and the rest of the North Rim team help me to make sure I manage the whole park.

Grand Canyon Conservancy assistance is integral to the work we are doing on the North Rim. Thank you for your continued support.

Photos courtesy NPS

The Southern Paiute Connection to Grand Canyon’s North Rim: Heritage, History, and Humanity

“For me, the Grand Canyon is not only spiritual; you have to be in it and see it and go through it,” says Daniel Bulletts, Cultural Resource Director of the Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians.

Grand Canyon is a very special place to Bulletts and his culture. Songs are sung about it, ceremonies feature stories about it, and locations within the canyon have spiritual and cultural significance.

“Deer Creek is our gateway to the spirit world,” says Bulletts. “Our family will meet us to take us to the last place we’ll ever be.”

“Grand Canyon is a place of power and serenity for me, and a place

to reconnect spiritually with my Southern Paiute heritage,” says Autumn Gillard, a first-generation descendant on her maternal side from the Cedar Band of Paiutes, from the Paiute Indian Tribe of Utah.

The Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians and the Paiute Indian Tribe of Utah are two of the ten member tribes that make up the Southern Paiutes. Although they have deep relationships with Grand Canyon, their reservations don’t border Grand Canyon National Park. But the Southern Paiute’s traditional lands include portions of Grand Canyon and the Colorado River.

The Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians believe they are responsible for protecting the land, water, and

everything that was historically theirs. And the entire Band of Paiutes is involved in conversation with the National Park Service to protect their ancestral homelands.

“All our important sites are on the canyon’s North Rim,” says Bulletts. “We have a large territory and work to manage it the best we can.”

That management includes working as advisors to the National Park Service and participating in monitoring trips that examine the impact of water flow and visitation on cultural sites.

“We watch over the land and help it, as the land eventually helps us when we need it,” says Bulletts.

They monitor the private and guided trips that utilize the canyon and the river, watching to ensure visitors are not going off-trail. An annual report is produced by the Band with recommendations for the management of the land and is reviewed and discussed with the National Park Service.

Some of the oldest songs in the Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians’ history are about the Grand Canyon.

“Many of our circle dance songs sing about going into the Grand Canyon before winter comes and then coming out of the canyon to see the snow or about looking down into the canyon and seeing the rock formations and the different colors,” says Bulletts. “No matter who we are or what we’re doing in our lives, as Southern Paiute, we are connected to this land and will always have a home in life and the afterlife.”

The Southern Paiute word “Tuvepiwon” is the root of the name of Tuweep on the North Rim. According to Bulletts, it is roughly

translated as “where the world ends.” “Tuvepiwon is the end, but it’s the beginning of something good and something new to a person who comes here for the first time,” he says.

Gillard says visitors should consider not only the land when they visit but also the space above. “The stars hold a deep cultural significance to us. The night sky is a cultural resource to the tribes, and as an International Dark Sky Park, Grand Canyon is a place where you should look up to the skies and think about how you contribute to light pollution.”

Bulletts’ advice for visitors to the North Rim? “Give it the respect it deserves. When you see this canyon for the first time, it impacts you physically, mentally, and spiritually. The canyon is there to teach, heal, and do a number of things that we get disconnected from as modern people in our fast-paced lives.”

“When you visit Grand Canyon, remember that people have been here for eons,” adds Gillard. “We

were the first stewards of this canyon, and we’ve loved it and recognized its power from the beginning. The National Park system focuses on preserving and protecting lands for all of us to enjoy. And that includes sacred cultural landscapes that Native American people hold ties to as ancestral homelands.”

Photos of Daniel Bulletts and Autumn Gillard courtesy Bristlecone Media

Wildlife Projects on the North Rim

By Miranda Terwilliger, Grand Canyon National Park Wildlife Biologist, Science & Resource Management

Bison

Incollaboration with the U.S. Geological Survey, the park recently wrapped up a project on how to best estimate the size of the Kaibab Plateau bison herd on Grand Canyon’s North Rim using aerial surveys and bison outfitted with tracking collars. This model will be used to estimate the herd size annually. GCC funding assisted in purchasing tracking collars and logistics to refine this model. January 2023’s pre-calving population estimate was 227, with a 95% confidence interval (Hennig & Schoenecker), which is on target with the park’s short-term reduction goals of less than 200 bison.

Recent research using the same bison outfitted with tracking collars found that the Kaibab Plateau herd is one of the few free-ranging, seasonally migratory herds. A new range map was published and made publicly available on the park website. The same tracking collars enabled staff to evaluate bison movements across the plateau. Results show that bison are responsive to hunting across the Grand Canyon National Park/Kaibab National Forest boundary. They mostly avoid the boundary, but when they do

cross, usually for coveted resources such as water and salt provided by hunters, they move up to 1.2 times faster on Forest land than on Park land regardless of terrain or vegetation cover (Salganek et al. in press).

At Grand Canyon National Park, bison are only found on the North Rim on the Kaibab Plateau. Scientists know much about how bison interact with ecosystems like tall and short grass prairies but little about them in forested habitats like the Kaibab Plateau. There are concerns about the density

of bison and their effects on this different ecosystem. Park staff and collaborators have researched to learn more about local effects and to monitor them over time so the herd may be managed at an ecologically sustainable size. One research project that hopes to answer some of these questions is that of Colorado State University graduate student Dana Musto, who is defending her thesis on bison grazing effects on the North Rim this year. Musto is a former Polk intern whose research at Grand Canyon National Park was funded by GCC.

Photo courtesy NPS

Butterflies

On July 15, 2023, a special Grand Canyon Conservancy Field Institute service project on the North Rim will assist the park with butterfly counts. Participants will work with lepidopterists (entomologists specializing in studying butterflies and moths) to help monitor the pollinators. This is an excellent opportunity to be part of the scientific work that the park does to understand the butterflies of the Kaibab Plateau. Comparisons of the results across years can be used to monitor changes in butterfly populations and study the effects of weather and habitat change on butterflies. This research aims to catalog species richness and abundance of butterflies in the Grand Canyon National Park region. This cataloging effort will supplement and compare data from previous butterfly counts conducted and specimen data collected from the 1930s–1950s by John Garth

To learn more about this service project or to sign up to participate, visit: https://www.grandcanyon. org/service-based/2023-julynorth-rim-butterfly-count/.

Additionally, the park is stepping up its work related to Monarch butterflies due to their status as a species of concern. Monarch butterflies (Danaus plexippus) stop at Grand Canyon

along their migratory route from Canada to Mexico. It’s a critical stop providing host plants essential for monarch survival, like milkweed and other nectar-rich species. Grand Canyon National Park has established pollinator gardens at the North and South rims to increase monarch habitat and assist with monitoring. When visiting the North Rim, you’ll find a pollinator garden at the Lodge Cabins adjacent to the Visitor Center and Grand Canyon Lodge.

Every year staff tag migratory Monarch butterflies to learn more about their migration patterns in the American Southwest and to and from Grand Canyon National Park. Tagging a monarch means you first must catch it in a net. Once that is accomplished, scientists collect data like the sex, condition, location, and activity of the monarch before placing a small tag on the wing.

Photo by britt gaiser on Unsplash

The tag, a lightweight adhesive sticker, has the monarch butterfly identification number and an email address for sending information if the monarch is re-sighted or recaptured. Image credit: NPS / Juan Pablo Esparza-Limón

Kaibab Squirrels

The iconic Kaibab squirrel (Sciurus aberti ssp. Kaibabensis), found only on the North Rim, with its all-white tail and black belly, is always an adorable site to see at Grand Canyon. But threats, including habitat loss through wildfire and logging, drought and climate change, hunting, predation, and disease, have led to a decline in its population.

There have been previously perceived Kaibab squirrel shortages in the 1920s and 1960s that recovered without issue. But because we still do not fully understand the population and ecosystem dynamics, the current population estimates are concerning. Currently, there are no formal Federal protections for the species. Arizona Game and Fish manages them as a game species as they are hunted seasonally.

This year, the park seeks public involvement to help locate endemic Kaibab squirrels on the North Rim. Public help documenting sightings will be extremely valuable and will inform management and direct ongoing science.

The Kaibab squirrel is one of six subspecies of Tassel-eared squirrels and is only found on the Kaibab Plateau. In 1965 approximately 300,000 acres of Ponderosa Pine Forest were designated as the Kaibab squirrel Habitat National Natural Landmark (NNL) by the Secretary of the Interior. The area encompasses the northern portion of Grand Canyon National Park and the North Kaibab District of the Kaibab National Forest. The NNL designation highlights the rare and diverse biotic community in addition to the scientific and educational values contained within.

Kaibab squirrels are strongly associated with Ponderosa Pine forests for forage and refuge. Unlike other squirrel species, they do not cache much food and remain active all winter. Depending on snow cover, these squirrels may subsist on only inner bark, while at other times, they will feed on false truffles and pine seeds. It has been suggested that there is a mutualistic relationship between Ponderosa Pine, Fungi, Kaibab squirrels, and Northern Goshawks. Changes to one may have substantial impacts on the others. Grand Canyon National Park and the Kaibab National Forest are collaborating with ongoing management efforts and new research to discover more.

Photos courtesy NPS

Fire Ecology: Promoting a Healthy Ecosystem

The smell of burning pine needles fills the air. Smoke billows up along the North Rim, illuminated from below by flickering orange flames. The natural human reaction is fear. But fire ecology research shows that fires can benefit the land, even rejuvenating it.

The Fire Ecology Program at Grand Canyon National Park uses monitoring data and the latest research to guide efforts to restore and maintain the natural fire regimes of the park as well as the Flagstaff National Monuments. The North Rim-based Fire Effects Crew assesses conditions across the landscape related to interactions with both prescribed and wildland fires. Basically, the team gathers data about what fires do.

When conditions are right, the Park Service allows natural fires to burn across the landscape, promoting a healthier ecosystem. This, combined with multiple entries of either

prescribed or wildland fires, reduces heavy accumulations of fuel, thins unnaturally dense tree stands, and can stimulate the growth of native plants.

“Because we have a fire-adapted ecosystem, we can let wildfires burn and do what Mother Nature intended them to do,” said Matt Engbring, Fire Ecologist. “It’s a natural process, just like rain and wind. When we talk about preservation in the Park Service, it doesn’t just mean we’re preserving the land like a museum. We’re trying to preserve wildfire as a process, allowing it to do what it does, and accepting the results.”

“The data we gather are about longterm monitoring of what impacts the fires are having on resources inside the park,” said Li Brannfors, Lead Fire Effects Monitor. This information also informs how many prescribed burns to implement and where to introduce them.

“The bread and butter of the Fire Ecology Program are humans on the ground sampling stuff in plots,” said Engbring. “If it burns, from the surface of the mineral soil to the top of the tallest tree, we sample it.”

This includes anything considered fuel, including leaf litter, duff, wood, and every stratum of vegetation imaginable, like grasses, forbs, shrubs, saplings, and mature trees. Values such as soil and wildlife are sampled by other programs via specialists in those fields.

“In times of uncertainty, getting more data is key,” said Brannfors. “That’s what our whole Fire Ecology Program is built on. We’re the source of objective data. You can’t just play it by ear anymore. You need the data to make informed decisions.”

Plot samples show what effects prescribed burns have on the land years later. For example, the data

Photos courtesy NPS

collected five years after the Tipover and North Rim Slopes prescribed burns indicate a trend that more trees are dying between two- and five years post-burn, even with relatively low initial surface fire intensity.

The North Rim has areas that have had up to four or five entries of fire over the past 30 years, a unique statistic that keeps fuels at a lower level, hopefully preventing a significant, high-intensity fire event that could wipe out the landscape. Most recently, 2022’s Dragon Fire on the North Rim was the third entry of fire in that area since 1999, including one prescribed burn and two subsequent wildfires that burned naturally at low to moderate severity.

“We want to see a mosaic of fires on the North Rim, both high and low severity,” said Brannfors. “The more of a mosaic we have, the less likely we’d have one fire rampaging across the entire area.”

But climate change is increasing the length and severity of the fire season. In late spring into early summer, when it’s unseasonably warm, dry, and windy, the entire Southwest is seeing more wildfires that burn even hotter and larger than before. Long-term drought has increasingly combined with dangerous fire conditions, creating an especially volatile mix.

“We’ve had to change our strategy because of climate change,” said Engbring. “Because the season is longer, our availability to implement prescribed fires has increased, and we’re doing them in non-traditional times, like over Christmas. Twenty years ago, winter was the off-season. Now we have good burn days in the winter! So, we’re taking advantage of burn windows in nontraditional times.”

Meanwhile, the Fire Ecology Program continues monitoring hundreds of plots across the North Rim, informing the decisions around fire management

year-round. They even have remote sensing tools to add to the groundbased data, augmenting the ability to quickly assess larger landscapes.

“We’re a public service,” said Engbring. “There’s a level of stewardship that goes with that, and we’re appreciative to have leadership that supports us. We feel privileged to be able to serve the public.”

Trails and Sights of the North Rim

By Slim Woodruff

First, let us get some misconceptions out of the way.

The North Rim is not in Canada—a passport is not required to visit. Even though the North Rim Lodge is ten miles from the South Rim Village as the condor flies, getting from one rim to the other requires a four-hour drive or a 24-mile hike. It is, therefore, not practical to stay at the North Rim Lodge and have dinner reservations at El Tovar, which is not to say people don’t try.

What is true is that the North Rim is 1,000 feet higher than the South Rim, with an entirely different ecosystem. C. Hart Merriam dubbed Grand Canyon the most biologically diverse national park. At river level, one finds cacti, rattlesnakes, and desert terrain. On the North Rim, a lush, Canadianstyle forest.

The North Rim boasts the most enormous swath of old-growth ponderosa in the southwest and spruce, fir, aspen, ferns, and prolific wildflowers. In autumn, the aspens transmute to brilliant yellow and

orange, and a few secreted smalltoothed maples blaze brightly scarlet. Since the North Rim is higher, water flowing north to south trickles out as springs and waterfalls. Additional erosion means the North Rim is farther from the river. So, rim-to-river trails are twice as long as South Rim trails, and the views are less dramatic but equally spectacular.

The North Rim has its own indigenous species, the Kaibab Squirrel. This elusive arboreal dweller has a luxuriant white tail and can jump 40 feet from tree to tree. We are not even sure how it got stranded on the North Rim. It has been postulated that its cousin, the Abert Squirrel, moved across from the South Rim during the last ice age and evolved into the Kaibab. But these animals depend on Ponderosa Pine, which moved into the area after the ice age. So, a conundrum.

At the other extreme, we have the bison. Watching them lumber across the highway is impressive, particularly when they loom over one’s Prius.

The North Rim welcomes one-tenth of the visitors who flock to the South Rim. Even so, the area surrounding the Lodge may get a trifle congested, predominantly around the sunset rush hour.

Fear not. The adventurous sightseer may avoid the teeming masses with a modicum of effort.

The Walhalla Plateau is worth a full day’s visit. The Walhalla was named by cartographer Francois Matthes, who adopted the exotic naming pattern set by Clarence Dutton, the “poet geologist.”

The paved 23-mile road across the Walhalla is narrow and twisting enough that vehicles over 22 feet are prohibited. A short spur leads to Point Imperial, at 8,803 feet, the highest point on the North Rim with iconic views of Mt. Hayden and the Painted Desert. Here there are outhouses and picnic tables. A twomile hiking trail leads north to the National Forest boundary.

Photos courtesy NPS

Heading south along the motorway, there are numerous pullouts and overlooks. The four-mile round trip Cape Final Trail leaves from a small dirt parking lot on the east side of the paved road. The trail climbs an easy 400 feet to the rim, where one may spy the Little Colorado River, often a brilliant turquoise blue. The trail then wanders along the rim until the last scramble to Cape Final. In 1880, Dutton described this as “doubtless the most interesting spot on the Kaibab.” There is a small campsite here that requires a backcountry permit. Sunrise over the Navajo Nation is unparalleled.

Further along the road, we find the Walhalla Glades pueblo. The Ancestral Puebloans farmed the area extensively during summers, and this site has been stabilized and provided with an interpretive brochure.

Another mile or so along the plateau is the Cliff Springs Trail. This trail drops 400 feet in one-half mile to a seep spring under a commodious overhang. Theodore Roosevelt camped there while lion hunting. Roosevelt’s nephew described it as “an ideal robber’s den.”

The terminus of the road is at Cape Royal. Here a paved, one-mile, wheelchair-accessible loop leads to views of Angel’s Window and Wotan’s Throne. A nature trail with interpretive signs explains native plants and local ecology. There is also an outhouse and a picnic area. No water is available anywhere along the Walhalla Road.

Ken Patrick Trail is named for the first National Park Ranger killed in the line of duty. Patrick started his career on the South Rim and was murdered while tracking poachers at Point Reyes National Seashore. The trail begins at the North Kaibab Trailhead and wanders 10 miles to Point Imperial. Disclaimer: most of this trail is overgrown with carnivorous New Mexico locust shrub

(Robinia neomexicana). Okay, they are not exactly carnivorous, but they have wicked enough thorns that they ought to be. Periodically, portions of the trail are cut back, and hiking through is pleasant enough until the foliage encroaches yet again. Check at the Visitor Center to see if any trail work has been done recently.

That said, the first mile is always clear because it is shared by the mule rides. From the mule turn-around, one accesses the Uncle Jim Trail. Uncle Jim Owens was the game warden credited with killing 500 mountain

lions in an attempt to strengthen the deer population—bad move. The deer herds exploded, the forest was overgrazed, and the animals starved. In 1924, a well-intentioned deer drive was organized to move excess deer from the North Rim to the South. Spoiler alert: it didn’t work. But a young dentist named Pearl Grey wrote about it. Writing was more fun than dentistry, so he launched a lucrative career crafting Western novels after adopting his middle name: Zane.

The Uncle Jim Trail is a 4.7-mile forested round trip with a 700-foot

elevation change. At the far end of the loop, one may gaze down the Bright Angel drainage and contemplate weary hikers wending their way out of the North Kaibab.

The Ken Patrick continues another 9 miles to Point Imperial. When newly trimmed, this is an isolated, pleasant walk with many wildflowers. When the locusts are not cut back, it is an exercise in ineffectuality.

The Rainbow Rim Trail was developed with volunteer labor as a mountain bike trail. It moseys 18 miles along the rim and into the forest. There are five access sites at Parissawampitts, Fence, Locust, North Timp, and Timp Points. Most hikers opt to ramble out and back from one point. Hikers can devise a point-to-point hike with a car shuttle, or the entire route may be accomplished as a long day hike. The geology is different from that seen further east. Here the broad, green Tonto Plateau is at river level. The dominant landform is the dramatic, red, Escalante Layer. The Rainbow Rim is accessible via well-graded dirt roads. There is no water and no

facilities. Camping at large is allowed in the National Forest.

William Wallace Bass arrived at the South Rim in 1883 and began exploring and prospecting. He befriended the Havasupai Indians, who guided him to a route down the South Rim and out the North. He installed a cable car and had the first rim-to-rim route at Grand Canyon.

The North Bass Trail, also known as the Shinumo Trail, is accessed via a dirt road to Swamp Point. The road can be extremely rough and may be blocked with downed trees in spring. The drive takes approximately two hours, and a high-clearance vehicle is advised.

A day hike takes one to Muav Saddle and a historic ranger cabin. The cabin is officially designated “Muav Saddle Snowshoe Cabin” but is commonly called “Teddy’s Cabin.” A short, steep climb takes one onto Powell Plateau, a verdant sky island overlooking the canyon.

You can also hike the North Bass Trail 14 miles to the Colorado River

overnight. Most people take two days to accomplish the route, and backcountry permits are required. The trail is in the wilderness and is unmaintained by design. I personally find the Redwall descent to be intimidatingly sketchy and airy.

The North Rim is usually open from May 15 through October 15, although heavy snowfall this year has pushed the opening date into June. Trail and road closures may occur anytime due to fires or downed trees.

Many tourists ask: which is the best rim to visit? That is a bit like asking a parent to choose their favorite child. The South Rim is more easily accessed and has more visitor services. It is also more popular and more crowded. The North Rim requires more effort to reach and has only one lodge. It is easier to avoid the crowds, and travelers tend to be more relaxed.

In any case, the worst day at Grand Canyon, North Rim or South, beats the best day anywhere else.

Explore the Grand Canyon with the Field Institute

June 16–19:

Inspired Hiking and Writing

The beautiful forests of the Kaibab Plateau will be our inspiration playground as we practice writing exercises that will help us pay attention to, and connect with, the abundance of rocks, critters, plants (and more) at Grand Canyon’s North Rim.

Our hiking goal will not be speed, but insight, as we wander along, pausing frequently to respond to writing prompts that encourage us to create out of a sense of play. You will leave the workshop with pages of place-based writing that you never knew you had in you, as well as a tool kit of tips, so you need never have writer’s block again.

November 1–6: Tanner to Grandview

Grand Canyon contains a surprising diversity of life zones as well as flora and fauna.

Participants will take the historic Tanner Trail to the Colorado River and spend the next four days hiking along the river on their way to the top of Horseshoe Mesa before hiking out. Along the way, there are countless opportunities to experience and learn about a vast array of landscapes, geologic features, starry skies, and archeological wonders. If you are looking to experience an incredible part of Grand Canyon that only few people get to experience, then this is the trip for you!

July 22–25: North Rim

Sampler

Designed to explore the more mellow side of Grand Canyon, this class will delve deeply into the isolated North Rim. We will take full advantage of the myriad ecosystems demonstrated by this high elevation “sky island.”

July 28–30:

North Rim Plants and Animals

This program is for those who are looking to gain a better appreciation and understanding of the plants and animals of the North Rim. Participants will have the chance to see some of the latest research being done with bison and talk to National Park Service scientists who are actively researching them. We will hike some of the trails of the North Rim as well.

July 15: North Rim Butterfly Count

Join us for an exciting service project working with the National Park Service. You will help us count and identify butterflies and have the chance to work with some of the dedicated lepidopterists (entomologists who specialize in studying butterflies and moths) who help these magnificent creatures.

To learn more about these programs, visit https://www.grandcanyon.org/programs-tours/ or email gccfi@grandcanyon.org

Photo courtesy GCC

On a 10-day backpacking route 4,000’ below Kelly Point in western Grand Canyon, unexpected weather hits. Photo by Rich Rudow.

Preparedness is Key: Living at the North Rim During the Winter

By Lauren Cisneros

TheNorth Rim is visited by only 10 percent of Grand Canyon visitors yearly and is more remote than people think. The nearest grocery store is in Kanab, Utah, one and a half hours away, and the closest Costco is three hours away in St. George, Utah. There is one lodge and one campground, all over 8,000 feet above sea level. The North Rim provides a place of peace and solitude. A place to slow down and appreciate what is in front of you—but what happens in the winter months when the gates close?

The North Rim is typically open with services available from May 15 to October 15 each year. Highway 67 closes to vehicle traffic for the winter. If you wanted to get to the North Rim developed area, you would have to ski, hike, or snowshoe 45 miles from Jacob Lake (one way). If you did make the journey, you would need all the winter camping gear and supplies required to spend a night

or more outside in extremely cold temperatures. Twenty-two employees, concession staff, and family members stayed on the North Rim through the 2023 winter season, and this number varies from winter to winter.

These employees and partners are Law Enforcement Rangers, Interpretation Rangers, Maintenance Rangers, Emergency Medical Services providers, Firefighters, Search and Rescue Rangers, and volunteers in various departments. They are responsible for keeping the roads clear, moving any hazards, working on projects for the upcoming summer season, building maintenance, and making sure that whoever decides to make the long journey either across the canyon or up from Jacob Lake is prepared for the harsh environment, and more.

The North Rim is closed in the winter months not just because of

the amount of snowfall but because of the brutal cold weather patterns. Its infrastructure was also not built to maintain a year-round operation. DeMotte Meadow, just outside of the park boundary, can sometimes reach 30 degrees below zero (Fahrenheit) or more. The average snowfall during winter months is 142 inches per year, with a record of 23 feet in 1978. The current infrastructure makes it difficult to accommodate any more employees or visitors during the winter months with these cold temperatures. More times than not, the power will go out, and the North Rim will have to rely on dieselpowered generators to be able to use electricity. Preparedness is critical for living on the North Rim in the winter.

Elyssa Shalla, North Rim District Interpreter, talked about how preparedness is key on the North Rim.

A front-loader plowing snow early in the morning after a big snowstorm. Photo by Jesse Barden

“We need to ensure we have all our self-rescue and personal protective equipment ready for winter. We never go out without a full search and rescue pack, and our packs in the winter are different than in the summer. Every time we leave the rim, we bring our gear so we can be prepared to spend the night out in winter conditions if something happens. Forty-five miles of driving seems short in the summer, but it’s a long way away in the winter. My winter coat is rated to 40 or 60 degrees below zero, as with my boots and gloves. I know I can take care of myself and have done the work to prepare for the conditions.”

Some winters can be mild, while others, like this past winter, pose difficult conditions and challenges. With the road completely covered in snow, the only way to get to Jacob Lake is via snowcat, which can be an uncomfortable ride. It can hold a maximum of five individuals with

limited gear and go about 13 miles per hour on groomed terrain. On drifty snow it can go four miles per hour with snow up to the windshield. It takes three and a half hours by snowcat on a good day to get to Jacob Lake but with snow on the ground it can take up to six and a half hours. Most people take this machine out for a grocery run, as many of their vehicles are parked at Jacob Lake. However, employees must plan in advance, as they need to be prepared with emergency supplies and an inReach satellite communications device, and must communicate with dispatch before leaving the developed area. Grocery shopping tends to be a challenge when the ride back is via snowcat!

Jeff Caton, a park ranger working in Facilities Management, said that this year some of the snow drifts on the side of Highway 67 were over ten feet high, making it difficult to move

snow around. They tried to keep the highway from the North Rim developed area to Jacob Lake plowed during this year’s record snowfall, but it was a big challenge with equipment failures and no breaks between storms.

“The snow was five feet deep and was compact and dense in spots out there,” he said. “A lot of people think we can just push the snow out of the way, but we need to scoop it, lift it, and dump it. In my average nine-hour workday I can plow about a mile of the 45-mile stretch. I take my jet boil, soup, coffee, snacks, and water with me for the day. If I need to go to the bathroom, I will be standing in at least waist-deep snow.”

The North Rim has employees during the winter months to maintain the facilities, protect the resource, and offer emergency services to those needing it.

Hiking down to Supai Tunnel after a break in between storms. Photo by Jesse Barden

There are visitors that make the grueling trek up the North Kaibab Trailhead from the canyon floor and those that make the adventurous 45mile trek from Jacob Lake.

Shalla remembered meeting unprepared hikers at her doorstep one evening. “I remember hearing someone knocking on my door. To my surprise, there were four young guys wearing running shorts and tee shirts, and it was the middle of winter. They asked if they could stay overnight as they were not prepared. They thought they could do a rim-to-rim-to-rim during winter but did not expect the conditions up here. We helped them devise a plan to get back in the canyon to head back to the South Rim safely the next day.”

The North Rim can feel isolating and remote but the benefits of living in

a place of solitude can outweigh the conveniences of city life.

Jesse Barden, a park ranger with Interpretation and Resource Education, enjoys trail running both in the winter and summer. He reflected on a special moment he had with the canyon this past winter. “The snow had been falling gently all day. A few powdery inches had accumulated on the road, enough to dampen the sound of footsteps but not enough to make walking a chore. It was around 20 degrees outside, so I put on my warm running clothes and headed out the door. I ran slowly (the only speed I have at 8,000 feet) toward the lodge, enjoying the soft snow and dimming light. At the lodge, I post-holed around to the veranda to get a view of the canyon. Clouds were shrouding the buttes and swirling in the side canyons. Snow below the

rim emphasized the canyon’s colorful layers. It was so quiet that I could hear the rushing of Transept Creek 6,000 feet below. Then, I heard a faint rumbling far in the distance. As it grew louder, I recognized it as rocks tumbling from somewhere deep in a side canyon. The rumbling subsided, but not for long. Moments later the sound of more rocks falling split the air. This pattern continued while I stood, enthralled by the sights and sounds of the Grand Canyon becoming grander.”

Many people think that the housing arrangements are also harsh because of the isolated North Rim environment. Caton mentioned that living conditions are better than one might think. “We have apartments, and I just got Starlink internet to stay connected. We enjoy watching shows and reading books on our

The snowplow on the North Rim clears snow from the administrative area. Photo by NPS.

days off like any other person. I think that sometimes people think we huddle around a fire like barbarians, but that just is not true at all. However, you do need the mindset and mentality to live up here. This winter is frustrating but rewarding. I’ve never lived where you can hear snowfall, but on the North Rim in the winter, you can.”

With only 22 people living on the North Rim in the winter, the sense of community is small but mighty. “Sometimes we probe down the North Kaibab Trail in our snowshoes as a group, we ski, we hike, we run, sometimes we do community potlucks, and the general vibe is to get out there for mental health,” said Shalla. “Many people do take winter leave.”

The North Rim of Grand Canyon is a unique environment in both the winter and summer months. The winters are harsh and frigid, but the employees up there are paid in vivid snowy sunsets and quiet soundscapes. Without those willing to stay over the winter months on the North Rim, facilities could be compromised, search and rescue and emergency services may not be possible, and the summer season could be impacted.

Next time you visit the North Rim, thank a Park Ranger.

The Coconino Overlook along the North Kaibab Trail is covered in approximately 5-6 feet of snow in early March 2023. NPS Photo/J. Barden

Photo by NPS

Helping North Rim Visitors: Emergency Services Volunteers Lori and Bob Derr

“Welove helping people, but we’re just two volunteers out of hundreds at the canyon,” says Bob Derr. But Bob and his wife Lori are two of the most experienced volunteers the North Rim has ever seen.

In their eight seasons volunteering at the North Rim, the Derrs were involved with emergency services, structural fire management, and search and rescue—all high-difficulty and high-stress duties.

Pre-retirement, Bob was Battalion Chief/Paramedic at the Myrtle Beach Fire Department in South Carolina, and Lori was an administrative assistant at a Catholic school. When it came time to retire, they thought volunteering for the National Park Service would be perfect since they had an RV. Originally the plan was to

move around to different parks, but when Grand Canyon National Park saw Bob’s resume, he was contacted about becoming a firefighter and paramedic on the North Rim. Things happened quickly after that.

“I retired on St. Patrick’s Day, and we moved to the canyon that May,” says Bob. “Our first day, we took Preventive Search and Rescue training on the South Rim, and Lori was taught to drive the medic unit!”

While still at the South Rim for training, they got their first call. Someone had gone over the rim, and they were to act as the medic crew. They jumped in the ambulance, but Lori still didn’t know how to use the lights and sirens because she hadn’t finished training.

“We had to follow others on Highway 64 with yellow flashing lights, but we got there,” says Bob.

While working at the North Rim over the years, Bob and Lori were constantly on call. There were only two other firefighters and no paramedics, making them the go-to people for emergencies. But not all their duties were emergency-level.

“We did whatever we could to assist visitors, from breaking into cars to retrieve keys to assisting with skinned knees,” says Bob. “And during COVID, we became interpretation rangers because the Visitor Center was closed. Since we were in uniform, visitors would come up to us and ask us questions about where to go and what to do.”

Lori became an expert at working medical calls, setting up IVs, and handling charts. She also trained on ropes and rappelling. She even lowered Bob over the rim to practice! “Talk about trust!” he says.

The Derrs were involved in many rescues over the years, but one stands out to them.

“We got a call that there was an injured person off-trail,” says Bob. “We drove to the picnic area near Roaring Springs Canyon where ranger Andy Tandberg took us to the spot where a couple had heard a woman yelling ‘help!’ when the wife yelled into the canyon to get an echo. We called Search and Rescue on the radio, but the South Rim couldn’t send us any help. Two law enforcement rangers (Tim Hopp and Matthew Krupp), one maintenance worker (John McFarlane), and a few interpretation rangers helped. I became the Incident Commander for this rescue, and Lori and I, with the help of others, rigged up lines with 300 feet of rope. The woman was 600 feet over the rim in her car—it had gone over the edge the night before.

With eight seasons under their belts, the Derrs are taking a break to be with their baby grandson, but they hope to be back at the canyon next year.

“The North Rim is such an awesome community, and it’s why we keep coming back,” says Lori. “Everyone helps everyone else up there, and it’s a place where you really want to live. We love the people we work with, from the rangers to the concessioners to the Grand Canyon Conservancy (GCC) staff at the store.”

The Derrs’ love of the Grand Canyon extends to their membership with GCC.

“We had so many things we needed for our volunteer work provided to us by GCC funding,” says Lori. “We want to continue supporting the canyon we’ve fallen in love with. Being part of this amazing place and part of the National Park Service has been priceless.”

Photos courtesy Lori and Bob Derr

Park Projects Move Forward on the North Rim

By Lily Daniels, Communication Specialist, Grand Canyon National Park

Punxsutawney Phil’s predictions for a longer winter rang true for the North Rim this year, bringing feet upon feet of new snow via multiple weather cycles. The repetitious weather cycles also delivered a redundant messaging theme from the park project management staff: “construction will continue pending weather conditions.”

Despite the North Rim being closed seasonally during the winter, projects and planning initiatives continued, as many are in various phases of design development or construction. With the 2023 season opening, it leaves many wondering what some of the weather impacts had on the projects and what to expect during the season.

Grand Canyon Conservancy members and visitors will benefit in many ways during visits to the North Rim as early

as this summer; however, many of the efforts will likely be experienced in upcoming years.

North Rim Entrance Road

The rehabilitation project will re-pave sections of the North Rim Entrance Road, also known as SR67, from the entrance station to the lodge, enhance and improve visitor pullout locations, and provide critical rehabilitation to other administrative roads in the immediate area. The project is being led by the Federal Highway Administration (FHWA), and their project staff has developed approximately 90% of construction documents.

FHWA staff will continue working on construction documents to include design information for a proposed entrance station rehabilitation

project. The project is slated to commence in 2026 or 2027 to avoid impacts from the upcoming North Rim utilities projects

With the recent project updates, it may be a few years before visitors experience the benefits of a newly paved road to the North Rim. In the meantime, another proposed project is the entrance station.

North Rim Entrance Station

Built in 1928, the North Rim Entrance Station is a classic gateway to Grand Canyon National Park and an excellent example of the rustic park architecture developed early in NPS history.

Rehabilitation for the entrance station is broken down into two projects. The first is the design phase for the project, and the

SR-67 takes visitors to the North Rim. Photo courtesy NPS

second is the proposed construction phase. The rehabilitation addresses improvements needed at the entrance station to correct code deficiencies and improve safety for staff.

The design brings the building and fee collection operation to modern standards while restoring the historic building and adding another fee collection booth, break room, and restrooms for park staff. A schematic design was completed in August 2020, recognizing the importance of maintaining the integrity of the building while making it serviceable by today’s standards. The design for the project is projected to finish by late summer. However, funding has not yet been identified for this project. Once the design is complete, the project will be put on hold until funding can be secured.

One of the hidden benefits for all visitors is critical infrastructure to support our creature comforts,

and there are multiple projects contributing to the overall improvement and rehabilitation of the North Rim Wastewater Treatment Plant (WWTP).

North Rim WWTP Upgrades

The North Rim WWTP was constructed in 1973 and had modifications and improvements in 1980. It supports all the visitor, resident staff housing, lodging, and support services for the North Rim of Grand Canyon. Many of the components, like the valves and pumps, have exceeded their useful life. The short-term goal is to repair wastewater services in support of visitor and employee health and safety to support the North Rim.

The design phase is completed for the upgrade project, which includes installing a roof structure to cover the treatment basins, upgrading the control system, and modifying

and upgrading the headworks. Construction was expected to begin on March 1, 2023, but extreme weather conditions prevented the crew from mobilizing. Park project management staff are determining how to complete the construction without significantly impacting regular operations during the summer season.

North Rim Lift Stations and Drying Beds

The project is replacing five pumps and lift stations that are not operating correctly or that need to be replaced at the North Rim WWTP. The WWTP is not designed to be gravity fed, so it utilizes lift stations to pump sewage uphill from the developed areas at lower elevations. The project includes replacing the sand in the drying beds and installing new aluminum handrails to replace chain-linked handrails around the WWTP platforms.

The North Rim Wastewater Treatment Plant. Photo courtesy NPS

CANYON VIEWS

Construction for the project began in June 2022, and by late October, the construction crew replaced four lift stations, completed some finishing work at the drying beds, and replaced old valves. The construction crew departed by the end of the 2022 operating season and took two pumps to Phoenix to be rebuilt. By the time you read this, the rebuilt pumps should be installed, as well as the new handrails.

Planning initiatives for the North Rim continued throughout the winter without delays to prepare for the 2023 season. The park planning branch staff are coordinating with North Rim staff to develop a simple

data collection plan that should be implemented by the time you read this. The data collection will include using trail counters to help gather data for visitor flow and use patterns at the North Rim that will help inform future planning efforts.

While the data collection efforts will have a subtle presence, the addition of interns may be more visible at the North Rim this summer. Planning branch staff applied for a Business Management Internship Program, and Grand Canyon National Park was one of nine submissions selected to receive business management interns this summer. The National Parks Business Plan Internship is

designed to promote the long-term health of national parks by developing improved financial planning and analytical management tools. The interns will develop a robust economic assessment focused on proposed expanded season services and operations at the North Rim. This assessment will be critical to informing future management decisions and planning efforts for the North Rim.

As the 2023 season progresses, the WWTP will begin nearing completion, and more projects and planning initiatives will start to develop for the 2024 operating season.

Photo courtesy NPS

News and Updates

Native American Heritage Days at the North Rim July 28–30, 2023

Native American Heritage Days take place at the North Rim each summer, celebrating the rich cultural diversity of the Colorado Plateau, the Arizona Strip, and the Grand Canyon region.

Throughout Heritage Days, special programs will be offered by tribal members on a variety of subjects, ranging from the night sky to dance performances. Visitors may inquire at the North Rim Visitor Center for a complete list of event activities, as well as their times and locations.

Grand Canyon Conservancy, Aramark Resorts, and Pipe Springs National Monument provide support for this event.

The 11 traditionally associated tribes of Grand Canyon include the following: Diné (Navajo Nation), Havasupai Tribe, Hualapai Tribe, Hopi Tribe, Yavapai-Apache Nation, Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians, Las Vegas Paiute Tribe, Moapa Band of Paiutes, Paiute Indian Tribes of Utah, San Juan Southern Paiute Tribe, and Pueblo of Zuni.

Right: The Yavapai Apache Warriorettes perform a traditional dance inside the Grand Canyon Lodge. NPS Photo/L. Cisneros

Interpretation rangers pose with members of the Yavapai Apache Warriorettes. NPS Photo/E. Wong

News and Updates

15th Annual Celebration of Art

Celebration of Art (CoA) is a wonderful tradition at Grand Canyon National Park, providing a vibrant experience for visitors, a venue for artists inspired by the canyon, and a successful fundraiser to benefit a dedicated art venue at the park. Artists paint “en plein air” (outside on location) for a week at the South Rim and the paintings produced during this special event are shared with the public

Event Schedule:*

Plein Air at Grand Canyon

Saturday, September 9–Saturday, September 16

Most artists prefer to paint in the morning and evening when the canyon is most vibrant.

Various locations along the South Rim, Grand Canyon National Park

Artist Paint Out

Friday, September 15

3:00 p.m.–6:00 p.m.

Between Verkamp’s Visitor Center and Thunderbird Lodge, Grand Canyon National Park

2023 Participating Artists

Suzie Baker, Shenandoah, TX

Joshua Been, Salida, CO

Elizabeth Black, Boulder, CO

Philip Carlton, Fruita, CO

John Cogan, Farmington, NM

Michelle Condrat, Salt Lake City, UT

Bill Cramer, Prescott, AZ

Chris Fanning, Lake Havasu City, AZ

Susie Hyer, Evergreen, CO

during a four-month sale and exhibition online and at Historic Kolb Studio.

This year’s event will kick off with an online auction on September 1, an on-site component September 9–15, and an exhibition and sale September 17, 2023, through January 15, 2024.

Sunrise Painting

Saturday, September 16

Sunrise–10:00 a.m.

Between Mather Point and Trailview Overlook

Exhibition and Sale

September 17, 2023–January 15, 2024

Kolb Studio and online at shop.grandcanyon.org

*Unless otherwise noted, events are free with park admission and open to the public.

Please visit our website for information and updates at: grandcanyon.org/coa

Peggy Immel, Taos, NM

Russell Johnson, Prescott Valley, AZ

Margaret Larlham, San Diego, CA

John Lasater, Siloam Springs, AR

Jose Luis Nunez, San Diego, CA

Deborah McAllister, Cottonwood, AZ

Bonnie McGee, St. George, UT

James McGrew, Lake Oswego, OR

Betsy Menand, Gunnison, CO

Marcia Molnar, Prescott, AZ

Mark Monsarrat, Redwood City, CA

Julia Seelos, Redwood City, CA

Matt Sterbenz, Chandler, AZ

Dawn Sutherland, Flagstaff, AZ

Paula Swain, Salt Lake City, UT

Photo by Deb Weinkauff

News and Updates

Artist in Residence Program

The Artist in Residence Program continues to host unique and talented artists whose work engages contemporary themes, especially those tied to conservation, cultural identity, and community.

From January 21–February 26, photographic artist, educator, and author Mark Chen explored the depths of cosmic and geological time through photography. His project, “Pilgrimage of Light,” involves projecting images of the cosmos onto public land sites, aligning two mysteries: the sheer amount of space light crosses on the galactic level and the deep time of geology.

Upcoming Artists in Residence:

June 8–July 5: Annie McConeLopez (Part I)

Annie McCone-Lopez will participate in a two-part residency at Grand Canyon, first in June/July and second in November/December. McCone-Lopez’s residency, which she calls “Let us Meet on the Land, at the Water’s Edge,” will explore questions about the earth’s precious water resources and ancient tribal relationships to water. She plans to show the correlation between the native perspective on water and how it informs people today.

July 13–August 9: Julie Anand

Julie Anand is a desert-loving artist and educator who is currently an Associate Professor in the School of

Art at Arizona State University. Her projects, informed by a background in ecology and geology, often explore material culture, body/land relations, and interdependency issues.

At Grand Canyon, Anand plans to record high-quality sounds of visitors expressing their impressions of the canyon in their native tongues. The sound will be layered over images of their faces, and the work will celebrate the diversity of the humans drawn to the park.

September 1–21: Terry Jenoure

Terry Jenoure was born and raised in the Bronx to a Puerto Rican and Jamaican family. She began studying classical violin at age eight and attended the acclaimed High

School of Music and Art in New York City. With a career spanning four decades, her performances as composer and violinist/vocalist include appearances at prestigious jazz venues and international festivals worldwide. During her residency, Jenoure will utilize her surroundings and translate them into music. She hopes to convert the sensations of Grand Canyon into a music experience that can be shared not only with immediate visitors who will witness on-site performances but also with online viewers from around the world.

November 17–December 15: Annie McCone-Lopez (Part II)

Galaxy image by NASA, ESA, and the Hubble Heritage Team (STScI/AURA). Arp 273, a pair of interacting galaxies 300 million light years away, juxtaposed below the 270-million-year-old rim of Grand Canyon. From the “Pilgrimage of Light” series by GCC Artist in Residence Mark Chen.

News and Updates

Astronomer in Residence Program

Dr. Jennifer L. Hoffman was in residence at the canyon from March 8–April 19. She is a professor and astronomer at the University of Denver (DU), where she holds the Womble Chair of Astronomy and directs DU’s historic Chamberlin Observatory. Her research focuses on the connections between massive stars and their supernova descendants. While at the canyon, Hoffman worked with park visitors to create a crowd-sourced Sunset Map around the equinox and led several Moon Walks that gave participants the opportunity to record and compare their observations of Moon phases. These activities encouraged guests to experience astronomical cycles and changes on a human timescale and to understand the sky as an integral part of our natural environment.

As you receive this magazine, the park will be hosting Kevin

Schindler, the historian and Public Information Officer at Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff, Arizona. His residency started on May 1 and runs through June 1. He shares Lowell’s long history of research and exploration through writing and public presentations and contributes articles for a variety of publications on subjects ranging from space and exploration to local history. Schindler has authored seven books, including Images of America: Northern Arizona Space Training, which features a chapter about Grand Canyon. During his residency, Schindler plans to continue his research on the Apollo astronaut training in Grand Canyon, studying historic images to determine their locations in the canyon and taking modern photos from the same locations. He’ll also host public astronomy and history presentations throughout the park.

From September 30–November 11, Caltech computational astrophysicist Dr. Cameron Hummels will be in residence. His research uses supercomputers to simulate how galaxies like our own Milky Way form and evolve over billions of years. As a professional scientist and science communicator, Dr. Hummels will focus his time at Grand Canyon on engaging visitors in science education. He plans to host a series of live presentations, including:

“Understanding the Formation and Evolution of Galaxies;” “The Science of Black Holes;” “Space Exploration;” “Meteor Showers and the Birth of the Solar System;” “Understanding Our Moon;” “The Search for Life in the Universe;” and “The Science of Star Wars.” (Presentations subject to change.)

Left: Dr. Jennifer L Hoffman

Right: Kevin Schindler

Member Spotlight: Jan Taylor

In 1997, Jan Taylor visited Grand Canyon for the first time as an adult, igniting a passion for geology that eventually led to 21 end-to-end river trips through the canyon (as of this year) and 23 years as a Grand Canyon Conservancy member.

“I was blown away,” she says. “I couldn’t make sense of what I was seeing! I bought a bunch of geology books at the then-Grand Canyon Association store and spent three days at the canyon. The last day, I looked down at the river from Desert View and saw boats and decided, ‘I have to do that!’”

And so, she did. Taylor has seen the canyon from the bottom up and endto-end many times since then and says she still has much to learn about the rock layers.

“My favorite layer is the Tapeats Sandstone, and my favorite site is Blacktail Canyon, where you can touch the Great Unconformity,” she says. “It’s amazing how old everything is!”

Her first river trip was in 2000, where Taylor says she found her sense of self. She went on a geology-centric

river trip the following year and volunteered to organize and charter seven more geologic trips. But it wasn’t enough. She chartered two more hiking trips for her friends. And it kept going from there.

“My passion wears off on people because I get so excited about talking about geology,” she says. “I love being on the still water early in the morning when the light in the canyon is so serene and beautiful.”

Taylor says she joined Grand Canyon Conservancy because she wanted to support the canyon in any way she could, and she heard from the river guides what good work the organization did for the park.

She is also one of the original Grand Guardian members and was among the first participants of GCC’s members’ weekend (now Grand Gathering).

“I wanted to be part of something bigger in the canyon,” she says. “I love going to Grand Gathering. It’s so much fun, and you meet people with the same passion you have. I’ve had the fortune to be on different tours

and learn so many things about how the canyon operates, from the historic boats to the mule shed to Kolb Studio.”

Taylor’s passion for the canyon rubbed off on her daughter, who is now in her 16th year as a Grand Canyon river guide. She also shares her commitment to GCC with her fellow river travelers.

“Protecting the canyon is the most important thing,” she says. “I want to keep it as a heritage site for as long as possible and conserve, protect, and maintain its pristine beauty.”

Jan after successfully running Lava Falls.

Photo courtesy Jan Taylor

Jan and Chelsea Taylor. Photo courtesy Jan Taylor

Jan Taylor and her daughter Chelsea on a river trip in 2016. Photo courtesy Jan Taylor

Ways to Give

Since 1932, Grand Canyon Conservancy has safeguarded Grand Canyon with these guiding values.

As we embark on our 91st year of inspiring people worldwide to treasure this cultural and natural wonder, we’re looking ahead to ensure we can continue serving Grand Canyon National Park for another 90 years.

Grand Canyon Conservancy has partnered with FreeWill to support our entire community in creating a legacy for Grand Canyon! FreeWill is an online self-guided solution to estate planning that helps you write your will in about 20 minutes—and it’s 100% free to use.

FreeWill can help you leave a legacy to your loved ones and the causes you hold dear, directing the impact of your life’s

work to the things you care about most. By including GCC in your estate plan, you can help move our mission forward, ensuring memorable visitor experiences well into the future.

When you make a planned gift, you incorporate our shared values into your legacy. Plus, you’ll become a lifetime member of the Bright Angel Circle, our most esteemed giving club.

Your legacy can help fund various projects, including trail maintenance, dark sky preservation, educational programs, wildlife protection, and more.

To start building your legacy, scan the code on this page, or visit freewill.com/gcc.

Integrity. Education. Service. Connection.

Photo courtesy NPS

SHOP GRAND CANYON CONSERVANCY

1) Official Guide to Grand Canyon’s North Rim, by Stewart Aitchison

$14.95

From trails and viewpoints to where to stay and what to look for—in this book, you’ll find everything you need to know to get the most from your visit. Naturalist and long-time canyon hiker Stewart Aitchison shares stories of the plant and animal communities, geologic forces, and human history that set this place apart. The inside front includes a map of day hikes, and the inside back cover a highway map of roads as one approaches the North Rim.

2) Benchmark Magnet, North Rim

$6.00

Standing at about 8,803 feet, the North Rim is marked with a U.S. Geological Survey Benchmark. Add this magnet to your collection to let everyone know you’ve visited or plan to visit! Measures approximately 2” x 2”.

3) North Rim 550-Piece Puzzle

$15.00

Enjoy a view from the North Rim once you finish this puzzle. Fun for the entire family. Measures 21” x 15” when completed.

4) North Rim Lapel Pin

$6.00

This beautiful pin features a view of the North Rim. It measures 1.25” square and is trimmed in copper-tone metal.

5) Scenic Highways North Rim Poster

$15.00

Inspired by travel posters of the past, Scenic Highways’ original illustrations are meticulously hand-drawn before using technology to set up the art for printing. Like historic prints of the past, the posters are screen printed in three colors with durable inks on heavy-coated paper. Made in the USA. Approximately 14” x 22”.

Shopping GCC’s stores supports Grand Canyon National Park, and GCC Members receive 15% off!

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GRAND CANYON CONSERVANCY

P.O. BOX 399, GRAND CANYON, AZ 86023

WE INSPIRE GENERATIONS OF PARK CHAMPIONS TO CHERISH AND SUPPORT THE NATURAL AND CULTURAL WONDER OF GRAND CANYON.

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