THE LUXURY LIFESTYLE • AUTUMN 2009
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The essence of the Maldives. Baros (member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World) offers a truly Maldivian ambience in a romantic, refined and contemporary setting. Retreat to elegant villas on a secluded stretch of sand or over the impossibly blue waters of the lagoon. Indulge in stylish and unparalleled dining experiences The Lighthouse offers degustation menus, tropical martinis and superb views of the sunset. Diving on its vibrant house reef or private luxury diving on one of its thirty superlative dive sites is just magical!
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Opened in March 2009 as a new showpiece in the Universal Resorts collection, Velassaru Maldives is a sophisticated resort that pairs contemporary, youthful luxury and Maldives beauty. Member of the acclaimed Small Luxury Hotels of the World The island – The 21-acre island, located in the quiet South Malé atoll, is possibly the finest accessible by speedboat. With its wide pearl-dust beaches, turquoise lagoon and coconut groves this triangular coral island is known for its natural beauty. The rooms – Blending with nature are the new spacious but intimate villas. Clean lines and sleek luxury define the architectural experience in the rooms. The Water Villas are individual rooms built on stilts off a jetty stretching out into the lagoon with unfettered views of the reef and the ocean beyond. Simply step from the overwater terrace into the crystal clear waters. The natural beauty of the island is the heart and soul of the resort experience. Beyond this pristine beauty of the island itself over water, leisure and 4 restaurants and 2 bars have been created to celebrate the setting. The ocean is never out of sight. Onshore – An infinity pool blending into the horizon. For floating at the edge of the reef or indulging in poolside drinks. The Sand grill with the ocean as backdrop. Featuring continental and Asian cuisines. An overwater teppanyaki & sushibar. The Mediterranean restaurant Etesyan with a walk-in wine cellar storing exciting new world wines as well as European classics. Romance 2.0 – Velassaru Maldives will invite guests to enjoy a personally meaningful approach to romance.
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This private island of charm and distinction started the one island one resort concept Maldives is famous for. At Kurumba serenity meets joie de vivre. Go barefoot, be served on your white sand beach under coconut trees, dine by the moon and candles or dress for dinner and dance into the morning to some amazing live bands. Bungalows and villas with or without private swimming pools and open garden showers are spacious and elegantly designed. Most accommodation is steps away from the white sand beach leading to a turquoise lagoon. With nine restaurants serving seven different cuisines Kurumba is probably the best gourmet experience in the Maldives. Hospitality that comes from the heart makes Kurumba a special experience.
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Rainforest clad Mount Dauban looms benignly overhead touching the clouds as you approach the powder-white two kilometre long beach of the unique 78 hectare island - Silhouette . Labriz Seychelles , the new resort on Silhouette (member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World) matches the island’s beauty . The spacious villas at Labriz Seychelles are elegantly designed in a contemporary style .With or without private swimming pools , the Villas and Pavilions are located along the beach or among the woods. Located in steps on the mountainside with panoramic views of the ocean , the Aquum Spa at Labriz is surely the most stunning spa in Seychelles .Enjoy also a wide range of activities such as diving, snorkeling, island hopping, fishing Five restaurants offer Creole and world cuisine.
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CONTENTS People: 48 Master of Ceremonies 60 Brave New World 98 Walking on Sunshine 104 The Renaissance Man 115 Legend of the Pearl 126 Q&A-Poppy de Villenueve
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CONTENTS Fashion & Luxe: 30 Event List 32 Back in Black 45 Ecosse Moto 46 What’s Hot Now: MustTry Neighbourhoods 109 Living it up
Add Paris to your Lifestyle
Jules Caris • La Galerie de l’Immobilier 48 Rue Mazarine, 75006 Paris, France • Tel: +33 660 454 091 jules.caris@galerieimmobilierparis.com
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CONTENTS Features: 72 Saddled Up 84 Two of a Kind 120 Sound of the Summer 124 Top 10 Art Auctions
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CONTENTS Travel: 52 Urban Retreat 68 36 Hours in Geneva
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ED NOTE 100TEU1_aug09 11/09/2009 13:47 Page 22
T
his edition of 100thou-
sand Club marks a new change for the magazine, and a new change for our editorial staff – I’m so
The Editor’s Note
pleased to present the first dedicated European edition of the magazine, and my first issue as editor. When I began working in publishing, I quickly found that my interest lay in the
look at the auction business – but ended up exploring the true emo-
world of luxury, and it still fascinates me
tional connection he has to the watches he encounters instead.
every day – the power of objects, the pas-
As many in the luxury world know, the best way to preserve
sion of craftsmen, and the progress that is
the products we love is to sell them – to create a market for and an
made every day by some of the smartest
interest in the work that we do so that no matter the climate, no
businesspeople in the world. In this issue,
matter the place, no matter the person, the object retains its value.
which we’ve devoted to a look at tangible
It is the common thread in the work of almost all of our subjects,
luxury, we were able to go inside some sto-
from Elie Saab, who pioneered couture in the Middle East, to Al-
ried luxury institutions. The house of Her-
istair Callender, who has designed an eco-friendly yacht that is the
mès has been a benchmark for high quality
must-have boat of the future. Remember as you flip through our
craftsmanship for more than 150 years,
pages and as you move through the world – while you may not be
and we spent several days between New
able to take it with you, there’s something to be said for enjoying
York and Paris getting to know the com-
the best of what’s around while we’re here.
pany from the ground up – from the shiny glass windows of the rue Faubourg boutique to their CEO, who had to learn to saddle-stitch his own business card case before taking the reins of the North American division. We also spoke with a man who has devoted his life to promoting the ultimate luxury heirloom – the vintage watch. Osvaldo
Editor-in-Chief
Patrizzi has been a fixture in the watch world for more than 50 years, and just after the first anniversary of his brand new venture, Patrizzi and Co., we sat down with him and his partner to get an inside
T H O U S A N D
C L U B
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CONTRIBUTORS_aug09 11/09/2009 13:44 Page 24
Contributors
Rebecca Goozee
Natalie Brandweiner
Robyn Baitcher
Rebecca Goozee is currently a contribu-
Though Natalie began her career as a
Growing up a southern belle gave Robyn
tor for 100thousand Club. She is also
business writer, interviewing executives
her love of warm weather, good conversa-
an Associate Editor of Business Manage-
from a variety of industries, and still con-
tion, and all things luxury, but she thrives
ment US, Next Generation Oil & Gas US
tributes to several business magazines,
on the energy of New York City. She came
and MENA Infrastructure. Rebecca
her understanding of the needs and de-
to writing from the newspaper world and
graduated from the University of the West
sires of high-profile people give her
is enjoying the creativity of writing fea-
of England, Bristol in 2004, with a BA
unique insight into creating maps, lists,
tures and profiles for the 100thousand
Hons in Cultural and Media Studies.
and feature stories that will grab her
Club.
She enjoys writing about fashion, travel
reader’s attention.
and photography.
Josh Sailor
Matt Buttell
Norimichi Inoguchi
After working in production for the better
Matt's interests in the jet set lifestyle,
Norimichi is a skilled photographer who
part of his professional career, Josh even-
fashion, gadgets and style meld perfectly
focuses on images using movement and
tually caved into his passion for photog-
with his other writings as a business jour-
water. He is intrigued by the interaction
raphy, and hasn’t looked back since.
nalist, which also help to offer a different
of water and fashion, and incorporates
Based in New York, his portfolio is as di-
persepective to his work. Having con-
his eye for movement into unique still-
verse as his experiences, and he creates
tributed to 100thousand Club before, his
lifes. He holds a BFA in photography and
fabulous shots of people, installations,
extensive and varied ournalistic experi-
was first in his class at the International
and beautiful places around the world.
ence are a welcome return.
Center of Photography.
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Advertising, Marketing, and Client Services T: +44 117.921.4000
Executive Director JASON LASLETT Project Manager OWEN BURGESS Account Executives ALEX HUCHET, JULIA MONROE, SALLY-ANN RYDER, EMILY WATTS RUSSELL, NEIL MACE, TOM WALKER
Finance Director JAMIE CANTILLON HR and Personnel Manager OLIVIA REEVES Production Manager HANNAH DUFFIE Production Coordinators LAUREN HEAL, RENATA OKRAJNI
Editorial/Executive
Circulation Manager BEN KELLY
Chairman/Publisher SPENCER GREEN Director of Projects HARLAN DAVIS
Subscription Enquiries
Creative Director ANDREW HOBSON
T: +44 117.921.4000 www.100thousandclub.com
Editor-in-Chief KATE WINICK Associate Editor NATALIE BRANDWEINER
General Enquiries
Assistant Editor MATTHEW BUTTELL
info@100thousandclub.com
Online Editor JANA GRUNE Assistant to the Editor SVETANA ARAPOVA
Letters to the Editor letters@100thousandclub.com
Design Director JAMES WEST Senior Designers ZÖE BRAZIL, SARAH WILMOTT
Printer Workbrands Ltd. Ferodo House, Willway Street, Bristol
Contributing Writers
BS3 4BG, United Kingdom.
REBECCA GOOZEE, MARIE SHIELDS,
T: +44 (0) 117 9669189. E: info@workbrands.co.uk.
HUW THOMAS, BEN THOMPSON
www.workbrands.co.uk
Contributing Photographers
100 Thousand Club
JP GREENWOOD, NORIMICHI INOGUCHI,
(Vol. 1, Issue 1, Q3 2009) is published four times a year
JOSH SAILOR
by GDS Publishing. All rights reserved. GDS Publishing, Ltd.
Designers
Queen Square House, 18-21 Queen Square, Bristol,
MICHAEL HALL, CRYSTAL MATHER, CLIFF
BS1 4NH, UK.
NEWMAN, LIVIO BONDI, CATHERINE WILSON Legal Information The advertising and articles appearing within this publication reflect the opinions and attitudes of their respective authors and not necessarily those of the publisher or editors. We are not to be held accountable for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or photographs. All material within this magazine is © 2009 100Thousand Club.
Head Office GDS International Queen Square House, 18-21 Queen Square, Bristol, BS1 4NH, UK. T: +44 117 921 4000. F: +44 117 926 7444. E: info@gdsinternational.com
T H O U S A N D
C L U B
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EVENTS LIST EUROPE FALL 2009
Cannes International Boat and Yacht Show, T Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup, Porto
Cannes, France, September 9th-14th
Cervo, Italy, September 6th-12th
Celebrating its 32nd year, this show is considered
This yachting event takes place annually
one of the premier yacht shows in Europe. There
in Porto Cervo and is a highlight for all
will be over 600 yachts on display on the French
European yacht enthusiasts. A tradition
Riviera, with 250 of those being new models shown
entering its 29th year, the regatta features
for the very first time, and over 200 yachts in excess
intense competition as well as gorgeous
of 20 meters. The Cannes show is a must see for all
vistas of the Sardinian coast.
serious yacht lovers, and a great reason to pay one last trip to the region before winter arrives. Mercedes-Benz Championship, Cologne, Germany, September 10th-13th Hosted by Bernhard Langer, Germany’s best golfer, this championship is a staple of the PGA’s European Tour. The Championship is very selective and only the best golfers may participate, making the event as thrilling as any event featuring golf can be.
T Formula One: Italian Grand Prix, Monza, Italy, September 13th The 13th race of the Formula One circuit is a spectacular event for all racing fans. If you missed Monaco, the Italy event is a must-see; it may not offer the same thrills as the race that twists through Monte Carlo, but the roar of the engines around the autodrome is an experience that more than suffices.
Clairefontaine Trophy, Cap d’Agde,
S Monaco Yacht Show, Port Her-
France, September 10th-13th
cules, Monaco, September 23rd-26th
Le Trophee Clairefontaine is a spectacular
Similar to the Cannes festival, the Monaco
sailing event where the organisers choose
show is also a leader in presenting the latest
eight of the best French and international
in yachting trends. A truly international
sailing teams for participation. The event
event, the MYS brings in high-powered
takes place in a nautical stadium, allowing
buyers from all over the world (co-sponsors
the public great viewing access as well –
include the Tourism Office of Abu Dhabi)
and the views are definitely great given the
and focuses on pure, unadulterated luxury
intensity of this competition.
yachting.
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T FIA World Rally Championship-Tour de Corse, Corsica, October 10th-12th First held in 1957, the Tour de Corse celebrates its 42nd anniversary this year as a key circuit on the FIA World Rally Championship. The course was originally known as the ‘Ten Thousand Turns Rally,’ and for good reason – all 413 kilometers of track and 145 kilometers of off-road driving are a twisted thrill ride, exciting for drivers and spectators alike.
S The Burano Regatta, Venice, Italy, September 20th The spectacle of gondoliers racing for bragging rights off the island of Burano near Venice is a truly unique spectator sport. Watching the male and female gondoliers racing their gondole and mascarete is like seeing a piece of history come to life.
W Hennessy Gold Cup, Berkshire, UK, November 28th Newbury Racecourse’s biggest event of the year is this cup, which is open to horses four years old and older. The purse in 2008 was draws the best horses in all of Britain. For those interested in the racing circuit, Hennessy is a crucial yearly pilgrimage.
Salon du Cheval, Paris, France December 5th-13th Over 100,000 people attended this event last year, and organisers expect attendance this year to be even higher. Of particular note is the World Arabian Horse Championship from the 4th to the 6th within the greater Salon du Cheval, which attracts some of the most gorgeous Arabian horses from around the world.
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EVENTS LIST EUROPE FALL 2009
175,000 pounds, and the allure of the prize
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BACKINBLACK
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Men’s jewellery is at its best when it’s strong, stylish and polished to a shine. David Yurman and John Hardy have maintained excellent men’s collections for years, and some of their most popular pieces are always done in classic black and silver.
From left to right: Men’s Naga Siler Link Large bracelet and Raja Silver Extra-Large bracelet, and Men’s Macan Silver Band Ring. John Hardy. Visit www.johnhardy.com or 888.838.3022. Black Scarab Ring, 3-Sided Chevron Pave Ring, Rectangle Pave Ring, and 3-Sided Carved Inlay Chevron Ring. David Yurman. Available at www.davidyurman.com or 877.908.1177.
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BACKINBLACK
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Just some of our favourite things – whether it’s an accent piece, or the main event, from a major-label or an upand-comer, you can’t go wrong with sleek, black accessories on your person, or on your dresser.
From left to right: Fragrance. Tom Ford. Visit www.tomford.com. Cufflinks. Jan Leslie. Available at www.janleslie.net. 212.679.5337. Sunglasses. Bulgari. Available at www.bulgari.com. 800.285.4274. Button Cufflinks. Rotenier. Available at www.robinrotenier.com. 212.768.1117.
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BACKINBLACK
The latest from the clever folks at Research In Motion, the Curve 8250, known as the Blackberry Gemini, is a radical new design with dedicated media buttons and a clear, dynamic interface. If you’re not already a Blackberry addict, this will be the device that converts you.
Blackberry Curve 8250. Blackberry. Available at www.tmobile.com. 800.866.2453.
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BACKINBLACK
Barker Black was founded as the modern alternative to men’s shoes and accessories. With their sleek design and time-tested construction (handmade since 1880), and the subtle details like the crowned skull and crossbones logo adorning this pair of classic monk straps, they offer the finest in subversive sophistication.
Euston Monk Strap Shoes. Barker Black. Available at www.barkerblack.com. 212.966.2166
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BACKINBLACK
For the ultimate resource for all things inhalable, the venerable firm of Davidoff is our destination of choice. Pair S.T. Dupont’s classic lighter with the stylish case of your choice to impress any lucky soul with whom you choose to share your sticks.
Ligne Two Lighter. S.T. Dupont. Available at www.davidoffmadison.com or 212.751.9060.
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We don’t believe in leather jackets from fey high-fashion brands – it’s the opposite of what a motorcycle jacket is all about. For maximum style, durability and authenticity, we go to Belstaff, making great-looking technical outerwear since 1924.
Original 50 Jacket. Belstaff. Available at www.belstaff.com. info@belstaff.com.
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BACKINBLACK
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A. Lange & Söhne, originally founded in 1845 by Adolf Lange in Glashütte, has survived two world wars and countless fads to see Adolf’s great grandson reopen the company in 1990, and bring back the quality of the original Lange pocket watches. All parts, movements and tools that the watchmakers use are made in their factory, making it a true classic German luxury watch.
Left, Grand Saxonia Automatik. Right, Little Lange 1 Moonphase Soiree. A Langhe& Sohne. Visit www.alange-soehne.com.
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T
he makers of Ecosse custom mo-
torcycles, Don and Wendy Atchison, build their bikes to be the best. Their three models, the
Heretic, the Iconoclast and the Titanium series together explain the attitude that their bikes embody – and now, you can carry that attitude and power on your wrist. In the ageold tradition of pairing machines that growl with machines that tick, Ecosse has designed a watch that looks straight off the bike – the deep titanium casing and large, open face is like a glimpse inside one of their engines – and those engines aren’t fooling around. Based just outside of Denver, Ecosse Moto Works hand-builds each of their machines from the ground up, to the exact specifications of their owners. Open only to those who have made a deposit, their various high-profile enthusiasts fly in to choose their model, colours,
Ecosse Moto tremendous, commending the attention to
French brand BRM, who is famed for doing
detail that made the bike an uncompromis-
these partnerships, is substantial yet stream-
ing visual and riding experience, combin-
lined, matching the titanium finish on the bike
ing the best elements of sport bikes and
exactly. The sporty black rubber band is
cruisers for the ultimate in comfort, speed,
stitched in the same pattern as the soft leather
and style. Given these proclivities, it’s no
seats of the bicycle, and the massive 48mm
wonder that as the company grew and ex-
bezel looks plucked straight from the instru-
finishes, and to be measured and fitted for their
panded, the newest models continued to build
ment panel. A lifelong watch enthusiast, the
particular body type and riding position. The
on that attention to detail and functionality.
President, Designer and Chief Engineer Atchi-
company’s founder arrived at his design after a
The Titanium Series has a truly distinctive
son is still as invested in every aspect of his
lifetime of riding: a dirt bike racer in his youth,
look, even beyond the customised nature of the
work as he’s ever been. He rides every one of
he began riding Harley-Davidsons as an adult,
Ecosse concept: the laser-cut logo badge, ma-
the bikes and tries to personally deliver each
and was frustrated by the compromises he was
chined covers and filters, a telescoping kick-
finished motorcycle. “An extreme focus on cus-
forced to make between comfort, style and
stand and an intricately designed upper tree
tomers is part of our mantra. I go over the bike
speed. His first model, the Heretic, was so
are working embellishments that add a whole
with each new customer and they are given my
named because he threw off the strictures of
lot of look.
cell phone number to contact me directly with
traditional design and classification to create
Therefore, it’s not that surprising that this
any question – no matter how insignificant they
something new and very exciting. The re-
was the bike that inspired the watch: the lim-
think it might be. I want the Ecosse to truly be
sponse from those in the motorcycle world was
ited edition watch, made in partnership with
their go-to bike of choice.” n
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W H A T ' S H O T N O W : M U S T- T R Y N E I G H B O U R H O O D S
Portland, Pearl District Up and coming designers have flocked to the area and besides the unique local fashions, staples such as Diesel can also be found. Don’t come here for chains though, as individuality is what Portland is all about; Powell’s Books, the world’s largest independently run bookstore, is a must-see for all visitors. The local cuisine is also spectacular and Bay 13, one of the area’s newer restaurants, offers some of the best seafood in the Pacific Northwest.
The Distillery District, Toronto Following a major refurbishment project, this is the place to be in Toronto. The largest preserved area of Victorian industrial architecture in North America features an incredible art scene, primarily showcasing Canada’s homegrown artists. The neighborhood is pedestrian only which gives it a very European vibe, and the conversion of the Gooderman and Worts distillery has given the galleries and shops of the area a very unique home.
Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires Buenos Aires also has spectacular shopping and dining options. Street fairs occur every weekend where you can pick up the wares of local designers, but the dining options are what’s best; try Casa Cruz, the best restaurant in the city, where the rabbit medallions are matched only by the duck comfit. Teeming with cultural institutions, the Evita Peron museum is a neighborhood highlight.
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Madrid, Malasana The Plaza del Dos de Mayo is the historical heart of this vibrant center, a mix of nightlife venues and restaurants that make the plaza a great place to spend the day before hitting up the clubs. The historic architecture contrasts with the throngs of trendy youths who have been congregating here for years. For history buffs, the Conde Duque barracks offer an escape into the storied past of the neighborhood.
Harajuku, Tokyo
The beating of Istanbul’s cultural heart can be heard quite clearly well through the night. While Nisantasi does have a vibrant nightlife scene, the shopping takes the cake, as the area is home to Abdi pekçi Street, the premier retail street in Istanbul. Besides designer staples such as Max Mara and Escada on the streets, the City’s Nisantasi mall offers more casual brands, from D&G to Jean Paul Gaultier.
Sydney, The Rocks A former slum has been transformed into a hotbed of activity, home to many of Sydney’s most well known and historic pubs. Besides the active nightlife scene which has been going on for well over a century, the neighborhood plays host to The Rocks Market each weekend which is a great place to see the local crafts of Sydney. Located close to the main tourist drag of Circular Quay, the neighborhood is great for a nighttime (or daytime) taste of the city.
W H A T ' S H O T N O W : M U S T- T R Y N E I G H B O U R H O O D S
Istanbul, Nisantasi
The heart of Japan’s youth culture is extremely diverse, with hipsters of all styles gathering here every Sunday. Home to the best shopping between Hong Kong and Beverly Hills, with most luxury brands as well as home-grown designers represented, the area is also close to the Meiji Shrine, which offers a serene escape in the heart of Tokyo.
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Master of
Ceremonies Elie Saab in his workshop in Beirut
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The king of red-carpet glamour remembers his roots
W
hen the lights go up on an Elie Saab runway
edge sharp. “I still love couture, it has no boundaries on the creative
show, the most glamorous women in the world
side and it gives me pleasure to interact with the clients and helps me
put down their Blackberries to watch the pa-
understand women and what appeals to them. I love luxury and fanciful
rade of their sartorial fantasies come to life.
styles; I like to see a woman elegant at all times.” To aid in this effort,
Well – not theirs, exactly: the vision belongs to
he began offering a ready-to-wear line in 1996, maintaining his vision of
Elie Saab, but the designer has proven year after year that he knows how
a more polished and refined way of dressing. “It still consists of cocktail
to produce exactly what women want.
dresses, elegant tops and trousers; my way of perceiving women,” he
Born in Beirut, Lebanon, Saab’s interest in clothing design was irrepressible from a young age. “Since I was a child, I’ve enjoyed design-
says, and to complete the look, “I also have accessories, shoes and bags that are sold at my stores.”
ing clothes and making dresses out of my mother’s tablecloths and
Couture has always been an international business, but Saab’s pres-
newspapers that I found around the house.” The budding talent was
ence in the Middle East means that he is an established force in one of
honed much to the delight of those around him, and his talent was en-
the fastest-growing regions in the world, but he has moved significantly
couraged by their responses. “I was always surrounded by beautiful
beyond his roots. “Our global clientele for couture is ever changing. It
women, from sisters to cousins to neighbours, so the desire to dress them
has grown beyond the Middle East and the US to Asia and Russia. The
and make them look stylish was my constant inspiration. I then went to
clients coming from the Middle East as well as the United States have
Paris to pursue my studies in fashion.”
existed for a long time and are probably the most faithful ones. Over the
After less than a year in Paris, he returned to Beirut to make fash-
past years we have witnessed the increase of clients coming from the
ion design his full-time career. Drawn by the opportunity to work di-
emergent countries: Turkey, Greece, Russia, Kazakhstan, Ukraine etc.,”
rectly with the clothes and clients, he opened his first eponymous atelier.
and this rush of new fashion blood is an exciting contribution to the world
He considers himself to be self-trained; “I did not seek help from any-
of couture clients. Saab welcomes his new buyers, saying, “My ideal
body at that time. My early influences were the people that I was sur-
woman is the one who has beauty within.”
rounded by and the society I was brought up in.”
It is no surprise that Saab inspires this kind of loyalty; there is an au-
Unlike many young designers, who begin their careers with a large,
thenticity and originality to his clothing that evinces how deeply he feels
established house, or else begin producing clothes that are more acces-
the inspiration behind his work. “We are the fruit of our cultural and
sible to the average consumer, Saab has always worked in this highest of
past heritage. The Arab culture is my background and I am definitely in-
high-end businesses. “Couture was my unique choice at that time. When
spired by the richness it offers, the elegant women surrounding me, our
I started, there were no fashion designers in my country; there were tai-
love of luxury and generosity and the sunny weather almost all year
lors but not designers, so I initiated custom tailoring and started making
round. In general, this is reflected through my choice in fabrics, rich ma-
dresses as per the client's measurements, preferences and occasions and
terials and warm colours like, sand and natural tones.”
it developed into a career.”
In regards to his most recent couture collection, for fall 2009, he
This lineage of customisation and tailoring has provided him with a
says, “My latest inspirations have been architecture and how a body in-
constant stream of stimulating work, and allows him to keep his creative
teracts with volume and line within the strict parameters of one ultimate
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ELIE SAAB_31July 11/09/2009 14:12 Page 50
colour.” On the runway, this translated a deeply textured and surprisingly
pecially between the Middle Easterners and Westerners. My client is
engaging collection of all-white gowns, which managed to avoid looking
the same everywhere. She is a woman who wants to be glamorous, el-
like any typical wedding-dress confections – the highly designed Art
egant and distinguished.”
Nouveau styling, as well as a plethora of detailing techniques: pleating,
With the demands of multiple collections a season, plus the chal-
draping, sequins, embroidery, quilting and more, made these gowns red-
lenge of combining one’s various influences into high-quality designs and
carpet ready, especially with some shorter dresses in the mix.
concepts, many designers are temped to retreat from the quotidian con-
With a clientele that is constantly seeking new and exciting options, he’s learned to provide them with the originality they want, draped in the technical excellence and good taste they need. “The vision for my line as a whole is prosperity, continuous success and to bring happiness and fantasy to my clients…in past seasons, Haiku poetry has been another inspiration with its balance of contrasts in soft colours and sharp, strong silhouettes.” The intellectual in him provides depth to his collections, and tapping into these larger concepts is arguably part of what makes his work translate so well around the world. “There is no difference in designing for my various clients, es-
cerns of building their brands. But in this competitive market, Saab’s business instincts have given him not only the ability to help grow his company, but to enjoy doing it. “I have always been keen on and involved in both aspects of my business; creativity and strategy with all its different categories,” he says, dating back to the early days of founding his label. “Both aspects show a different type of challenge which I enjoy com-
ELIE SAAB_31July 11/09/2009 14:13 Page 51
between Beirut, Paris and Geneva, where my wife and three children live. My favourite way to travel is going somewhere, anywhere on a boat. I usually love to do the South of Italy and every summer I go and enjoy their foods. I also like exotic islands such as the Maldives and other Indonesian islands; these are my favorite destinations. I am Mediterranean and therefore I have to always be near the sea. It gives me a great peace of mind and a wonderful sense of relaxation. I also love the buzz and energy of New York, it is very contagious.” As he has returned from the summer holidays and is back into the swing of business, preparing for the next round of fashion weeks and shows, Saab is looking straight ahead, focused on the things that have brought him success in the past and how he can reinterpret them for the future. Growth is the key word for his goals, both geographic and creative, and the love and passion he has for his work and his clients stand him in good stead all over the world. n
bining and working on.” Like many motivated businessmen, he has a routine that works for him: “Before anything, I like to take it easy in the morning so that I can set a great mood for the day. I start with my coffee and exercise, then head to my office where I go and do the usual: meet with my couture clients and work on new collections. Everything there is exciting. I have been doing this work for decades and I still enjoy every minute of it – the interaction with my clients, the creation of a new collection.” Being on the front lines of his business has kept him grounded in what his customers need and expect, and he delivers clothes that keep them coming back for more. “I create wearable clothes; clothes that highlight the woman’s body at best. I tend to work on each woman’s body and not on the dress,” a concept that was once standard in fashion design, but has been lost in the rushing tide of ready-to-wear options. “I believe it is the woman who wears the dress and not the dress that wears her and this is very important in my creativity process. We all change and evolve as per the trend and styles of the time. When my style evolves, my clients do and vice versa.”In order to keep his style evolving, he is constantly seeking out inspiration – but for a creative mind, it’s not hard to find. “Everything is inspiring to a designer; every detail can bring up new ideas; but behind everything lies the woman, an elegant woman with a desire to be distinguished and unique; that is my constant inspiration.” Above all, he is inspired by architecture and travels frequently to observe and absorb the architecture and spirit of new cities. “I currently live
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URBAN
re reat There is no greater media frenzy than of that surrounding world sporting events, be they the Olympic Games, the Cricket World Open or the Grand Prix series. In 2010, South Africa is set to host the notoriously hyped World Cup; builders across the region are racing to complete the new stadiums commissioned in time for the opening of the games on June 10, 2010, with Soccer City in Johannesburg hosting the opening and closing ceremonies, as well as the final.
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As its cities are preparing in strong stead for the influx of tourism the games are due to bring, South Africa
54
the continent’s own emerging and well-loved designers, such as Hip Hop, Errol Arendz and Catherine Moore.
is drawing on its previous success in attracting tourists
However, it’s that time when the streetlights turn on
– its breathtaking landscapes and richly diverse wildlife
that Cape Town really comes out to play. Bursting with
are world famous as a destination. Safaris across the re-
culinary delights from all over the world, the choices of
gion’s plains, plentiful with wildlife, have brought visitors
where to eat are endless. The culinary experience at the
here from across the world wanting an authentic African
One & Only hotel is a guaranteed satisfier – both Nobu
experience trekking through the lush forests of Tsit-
Matsuhisa and Gordon Ramsey have brought their re-
sikamma or basking on the un-spoilt beaches of the Wild
spective Michelin-starred talents to their first African
Coast. However the World Cup is due to attract a new type
venues. However, the need for imported chefs from Eu-
of tourist to its thriving city streets, with Johannesburg,
rope and the US is fast diminishing, and local South
Cape Town, Durban and Port Elizabeth offering a contem-
African chefs are now gaining popularity. Chefs such as
porary, yet authentic experience. The urban nightlife and
Garth Stroebel at the Mount Nelson, Barak Hirschowitz
metropolitan bustle of South Africa’s cities hold their own
at Tides at the Bay Hotel, and Graeme Shapiro at The
in terms of luxury and entertainment, and for those with a
Restaurant are regarded as Cape Town’s best, combin-
more fast-paced approach to tourism, the region’s urban
ing traditional dishes with the exotic new ingredients of
retreats have so far been vastly underrated.
the modern world.
Often described as a seaside playground, Cape
There is also a plethora of lively nightlife options,
Town’s ‘city bowl’ district is fast attracting tourists to the
and deciding where to enjoy an evening’s cocktail is
township. It is known for being one of the most enter-
equally as hard. Cape Town is home to several options
taining cities in the world, and only a 10 minute drive
where you can wile away the nighttime hours – starting,
from the water’s edge, the bustling metropolitan centre
of course, after your sundowner cocktails, a delightful
offers an array of exquisite restaurants, an abundance of
colonial tradition that is still going strong all over the
high-fashion stores and endless miles of wine estates to
country. Café Caprice is regarded as being the city’s ‘bar
indulge in following a day’s adventures. There are a mul-
of the moment’. Located on the waterfront it offers the
titude of top-class places to stay, such as The Twelve
perfect setting in which to watch the sun go down, in its
Apostles, which offers a personalised approach to hotel
cocktail bar or intimate restaurant. Entertained by resi-
accommodation, and complete with its Sanctuary Spa
dent DJs, the crowd here is a local one, attracting young
has been voted the best spa resort in Africa. Cape Grace
professionals and the odd celebrity.
and Mount Nelson are other exclusive hotels; and as you
If it’s a night of music that is desired, Cape Town’s air
would expect in an area thriving with wealth, you are
of luxury extends into its club scene. Rhodes House is a
never more than a stone’s throw from a hotel of grandeur.
club in which to find wealthy locals enjoying the enter-
But the tourists found walking the streets of South
tainment – the setting boasts three upstairs bars and an
Africa’s busiest cities are less interested in relaxing
opulent VIP lounge to accommodate its frequent
within the hotel and more about the adventures of the
celebrity visits. Hemisphere is another of the city’s most
city – the bright lights, busy crowds and trendy bars.
sophisticated and stylish clubs. The contemporary décor
Cape Town, although magnified by its beautiful and
of fiber-optic lighting and a glass walled VIP area is en-
cascading scenery, is often compared to cities such as
joyed to the sound of retro music, and the location pro-
LA and Milan. Despite its distance geographically, its
vides a 180˚ view of Table Mountain upon which to enjoy
fashion district is certainly not lacking in style. In fact,
the dazzling sunrise.
Cape Town is booming for brands, as many designers are
Cape Town is not the only urban scene on the conti-
realising the potential growth to be had on the continent.
nent. Johannesburg is up-and-coming as a city due to its
Often described as a ‘label nation,’ Louis Vuitton has
fascinating cultural heritage, combined with the con-
opened up the ‘Mother’ store, and design houses such as
temporary attractions enjoyed the world over. Often re-
Escada, Gucci and Armani hold a strong presence, as do
ferred to as the ‘City of Gold,’ Jozi, as its called by the
100 Thousand Club
At the Rejuva clinic we provide a warm, caring environment for your treatment. We are dedicated to devote the utmost attention, and the highest level of aesthetic expertise. We specialise in • treatment of under arm sweating (hyperhydrosis) • cellulite treatment • mesotherapy for face and body
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9/9/09 09:52:54
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locals, is famous for its championship golf courses. Re-
Australian prospector George Harrison in 1886) wealth
garded as one of the best cities in the world in which to
seeps through almost every aspect of society, and holiday
indulge in this much loved sport, Johannesburg has the
gambling is enjoyed at the 300 tables located within the
perfect climate to stroll across the fairways. The courses
city’s many casinos. Often compared to Las Vegas, there
themselves are held in great esteem – 36 of the top 100
are few places with such an extraordinarily high density of
golf courses of South Africa are located in Johannesburg.
casinos to enjoy. Gold Reef City and Montecasino are lo-
The Royal Johannesburg and Kensington course, listed
cated within the city and open 24 hours to accommodate
12th in the ratings, is a particular favourite with the lo-
those moments when fluttering desires strike.
cals. Established almost a century ago, the two courses
As with Cape Town, Johannesburg truly comes to life
merged to enlarge the club’s bank account and upgrade
after hours. Its vast array of restaurants are an array of
both the courses and the clubhouse. Both fine examples
cuisine to tempt all tastes; Auberge Michel, an award-
of metropolitan parkland layouts, the course has played
winning restaurant, offers an exceptional seasonal menu
host to the Joburg Open since 2007, and is the only golf
of light French dishes and is known as being one of the
club visited by the European Tour where more than one
most exclusive restaurants in the city.
course is used for a single event.
Durban is a lesser-known city with it’s own unique
However, golf is not for everyone, and as a richly di-
appeal. Regarded as South Africa’s beach getaway, the
verse city, there are numerous other activities to enjoy.
city is credited as being the most culturally diverse spot
As befitting the city where gold was first discovered (by
of Africa – the city’s inhabitants cover almost every cross
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section of society. Take a walk along the sands or on the
The smallest of South Africa’s major cities, Port
city’s streets and expect to find phone-clad executives,
Elizabeth, is similarly known for its sandy beaches
teenagers and surfers, as well as the more traditional sari-
and is a major tourist destination for the more adven-
clad matrons. It is the closest seaport to Johannesburg
turous; surfing, boardsailing and diving are available
and is notorious for its underwater activities; it hosts
all year round. Port Elizabeth is rich in culture, ex-
South Africa’s only surfing museum, a sport that attracts
emplified through its multitude of historic attractions.
enthusiastic tourists to its shores the world over. With a
One of its more well known is the Historic Donkin
multitude of restaurants and coffee shops overlooking the
Heritage trail, which provides each adventurer a
small boat harbour, Durban provides the perfect setting
unique experience, following the ancient trail of the
in which to unwind after a day spent battling the waves,
1820 Settlers on their journey of discovery. The five-
stuck in the office or visiting its cultural art centres. But
kilometer trail leads each of its visitors through 47
despite its scenic beauty and natural attractions, the city
historical sites and architectural wonders. Venturing
is also known for its nightlife, which is as fast paced as
inland to the city’s centre, the same buzz can be found
its water-sports. Joe Kools is a regular hotspot for the lo-
as that in the country’s larger locations, but with a
cals; and its notorious Sunday night parties continue well
more localised element.
into sunrise. But for something a little more hardcore,
Without taking away from the region’s breathtak-
club 330 is regarded as South Africa’s best place for
ing plains and teeming wildlife, South Africa clearly
dance music. For more than 15 years, magnitudes of DJ’s
has more to offer than the traditionally conceived hol-
across the globe, from Carl Cox to Josh Wink, have
idays of safaris and trekking. A trip to South Africa’s
played the biggest tunes in the city’s most happening
cities is the perfect way to bask underneath the
nightclub, and the scene has exploded into becoming one
African sun and admire the region’s culture whilst en-
of the top10 places in the world to party. Don’t be fooled
joying a modern, fast-paced style of life, be it in-
by what appears to be a traditional beachside town; hid-
dulging in sumptuous cocktails, relaxing in a tranquil
den amidst the surfboards and trendy bars is a scene sim-
spa or dancing until the sun rises across the African
ilar to that of London and LA.
skyline.
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Alistair Callender is opening up the horizons of luxury yachting
Brave
New World
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W
hen a lifelong sailor and lover of boats
always been determined to be in that minority.” He spends his days on
applies their talents to the creation of
a combination of computer-based CAD modeling work, sketch develop-
boats, it’s no surprise that the result em-
ment work and tangible model making. “I currently work from home,
bodies the kind of creative thinking and
which enables me to work far more productively as no time is wasted
innate rightness of being that exists only
commuting. In recent weeks my design day would finish on average at
in truly important technology. As the
about 2 or 3am, then up again for the next day of creating somebody’s
yacht business faces tough times and the world faces tough questions
dream! Long hours, but I thoroughly enjoy it. The personal sense of sat-
about our use of fuel, he’s taken his innovative mind and applied it to
isfaction I get at the end of a project, when I have seen my design cre-
where these question intersects in the world of yachting and created So-
ations completed and in production is unbelievable.”
liloquy, the world’s first green megayacht. Callender’s career on the water began early, growing up 300 meters from his local sailing club on the south coast of England. “For as long as I can remember, I have been around boats and the water. I was four when I first took the helm of my father’s sailing dinghy.” One of his fondest sailing memories is also one of his earliest, he reminisces; “I was sailing down to the mouth of Chichester Harbour with my family in our sailing dinghy. I couldn’t believe the true feeling of adventure – landing on this ‘remote’ and ‘secluded’ beach. It was my very own Swallows and Amazons adventure. Apparently I fell asleep on the anchor on the return journey later that day – due to the incredibly relaxing sound of lapping water to the bow of the boat – it is so therapeutic.” He started seriously considering making his hobby his career when at sixteen, he heard a talk given at his school by Andrew Winch, the worldrenowned super-yacht designer. “I knew there and then it was my ideal career path to take – I have been hooked ever since!” He ended up getting valuable work experience at the Andrew Winch Designs office in London, and began his formal education at Coventry University. Whilst only a student, Callender was the only one selected out of 150 others in the course for a six month professional enhancement placement; in his case, in Plymouth, United Kingdom, to work alongside the design team at Princess Yachts International. He has since continued his relationship with the company and has several of his designs for them currently in production. “Very few people are lucky enough to work in an industry they are passionate about,” he says, “I have
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later into the design process. “ This is particularly important if you want to achieve an eco-friendly design, as with Soliloquy. “My generation is passionate about the planet; fortunately I’m also passionate about superyachts,” he says. “I have always been inspired by one of my sailing heros’ conservation work, the late Sir Peter Blake. I could not forgive myself if I did such a radical superyacht design to push the future boundaries of yacht design without considering, in every possible way, the impact that my design will have on the planet. This was why I then approached Solar Sailor Holdings Ltd, their technology seemed to perfectly match my green, rigid-wing design concept proposal.” The simple explanation of the technology that powers this 190-foot (58m) motor-sailor is that, through the patented technology of Solar Sailor Holdings Limited, this eco-luxurious superyacht will be propelled from wind, solar and hybrid marine power (HMP) technology. The vessel can be sailed from only the wind, and/or a combination of her stored electric energy to run the electric motors. Her speed is competitive to other relative vessels, but with the capability to be zero-emissions. As Callender sees it, the advantages of green technology are limitless. He has followed the development of this technology for many years, and while researching his rigid-wing superyacht design, came across Solar Sailor Holdings. “It was the perfect application to my superyacht design. The slightly greater initial investment more than makes up in savings thanks to the numerous advantages the technology can bring.
64
His inspirations for his designs vary widely; he says, “I like to try to
These include lower levels of vibration, minimal noise, reduced running
find new solutions and innovations with every new project I begin. I
costs, added resale value, and of course, the invaluable benefit of zero-
wouldn’t like to pin myself into a particular bracket of design style. This
emissions, compliant technology. “A future owner has the opportunity
is because each new brief and client will require a new approach, and I
to invest in a superyacht that causes minimal harm to the environment
can adapt accordingly, to ensure their personal dreams and desires are
and has a holistic, carefully managed design approach. That will turn
created.” In the case of his design for Soliloquy, The ‘Super-Green Su-
heads and make a positive statement about them as an owner, in a way
peryacht’ was strongly influenced by the design of the Rotating Tower,
no other vessel can.”
currently under construction in Dubai. “The ever-changing forms, and
Of course, with a top-of-the-line superyacht, it’s not a boat where
beautiful aesthetic, emotional connection was my main inspiration.”
you can skimp on the details. Balancing the desire for luxury with the
Something he feels many consumers don’t know about the design process
need for sustainability was a challenge that depended on creative sourc-
is the holistic manner in which it is approached. “To achieve a well re-
ing and being open to trying new materials and products. “Luxury takes
solved end solution, every aspect of the brief and objectives have to be
many forms, and research shows it is relative and individual to each of
100 percent understood, from the outset, rather than considering things
us. Through the innovative design of numerous features onboard Solilo-
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quy, I hope to exceed people’s expectations,” Callender says. “The key
for harnessing the 'power of nature'. Those are people that want to be
criteria to achieve the required sustainable stance, was to ensure all ma-
leaders in state-of-the-art technology, or to help make a difference to the
terials and construction techniques were selected to be supportive of the
future of the industry, whilst they can also minimise their carbon foot-
brief. More and more firms today specialise in having luxurious and eco-
print. Soliloquy might initially be for the client that wants to be the
friendly products. Therefore, this brings the opportunity to carefully se-
first to own a radical superyacht design, perhaps simply because they
lect materials that are both eco-friendly and also provide its user with the sense of luxury that is expected on a superyacht. It was said at the announcement of the projects that Soliloquy was originally intended for “an owner of an eco-friendly stance, with a non-sailing background”. The vision of the ultimate user of the boat is not been exclusive to these criteria, but it did initially form the basis for the brief, he says. “These
“I wanted to design not only an environmentally green superyacht, but an innovative design solution that provides an attractive, elegant and highly desirable vessel that many people would like to experience”
points are still valid, but do not exclude those outside of these areas by any means. In fact, the numerous advantages will appeal to owners of numerous desires.” The
can, as well as clients who just want to experience something revo-
radical, architecturally dynamic form, with her ever-evolving super-
lutionary, whilst in the knowledge they are being eco-friendly.”
structure is truly innovative; something Callender believes will appeal
At this stage of the project, Callender Designs is still in talks
to numerous potential investors. “I wanted to design not only an envi-
with different yards and naval architects and has not begun produc-
ronmentally green superyacht, but have also tried throughout the process
tion, but interested parties are encouraged to, and have already been,
to achieve an innovative design solution that provides an attractive, el-
getting in touch with the designers. They expect these finer details to
egant and highly desirable vessel that many people would like to expe-
be influenced by the client involved. Callender firmly believes that
rience.” As to his ultimate buyer, he says, “I believe Soliloquy will be
there are buyers out there – “information available shows that his-
attractive to many high net-worth individuals that see the true potential
torically the superyacht industry has been one of the least affected by
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the financial climate, where new builds remain buoyant even during times of recession.”
66
This recent university graduate plans to spend his immediate future on the circuit, giving various speeches on Soliloquy – the first will be in
He expects that overall the direction in which he is going with So-
Majorca this June, at the fourth annual Future of Superyachts Confer-
liloquy reflects larger trends in the yachting world that will develop over
ence. “Solar Sailor Holdings Ltd. and I will be promoting Soliloquy’s de-
the next few years. “We shall see more efficient hull design, and inno-
sign and technical innovations at various yachting events in the coming
vative methods using renewable energy and propulsion,” within the next
months.” He also hopes to continue his own sailing career: “I have been
five to ten years, he predicts. The green mentality provides an unex-
passionate about sailing for as long as I can remember, so I would wel-
pected perk for those who worry they might be compromising the im-
come the chance to sail to the most remote and idyllic parts of the world.
pressiveness of their boats: “I think the average size of private luxury
I hear the Pacific and New Zealand islands are stunning. This, I think,
yachts will continue to gradually increase in size. Interestingly, the larger
would be a wonderful place to visit. I am fascinated by visiting new parts
the design Soliloquy becomes, the more beneficial and efficient she be-
of the globe and I always enjoy experiencing new cultures.” Like many
comes: thanks to the scale effect of harnessing renewable energy and
sailors, Callender has a philosophical side to him, which has provided
also hull length ratios.”
the finishing touch to this project. After considerable time and thought,
Harnessing free, renewable energies, that are plentiful in the areas
he decided that ‘Soliloquy’ was ideal name for super-green superyacht.
of the world that these yacht often frequent, will mean the running costs
“The syllable ‘sol’ in Latin means sun, which is one of Soliloquy’s main
will reduce, along with the other benefits that will all will be attractive
forms of clean and free propulsion,” he says. “Also, a soliloquy in a
to future investors, in turn pushing more yachts in this design direction.
Shakespearean play is when a character divulges his or her innermost
“Rigid-wing technology is certainly the future of efficient sailing propul-
thoughts, and deepest desires and beliefs to the world. In this same vein,
sion,” he says, and Soliloquy is the first to apply such a rig to be incor-
this yacht is the character that will tell the world that you no longer have
porated within the superyacht industry.
to design highly polluting luxurious vessels.”
100 Thousand Club
GrandHotelGeneva.indd 2
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So you’ve been skiing in the Alps, and to you, Geneva is just a sea-level depression between the vastly more interesting mountains. This crossroads at the center of Europe is used to people just passing through, but we decided to stay a little while, and see what’s been drawing people here since the B.C. years.
36 Hours in Geneva 12:00
13:00
15:00
18:00
Arrive at Geneva-Cointreau
Check in at the Grand Hotel
Tour around the Old Town
Stop for an aperitif at Place
airport – just 15 minutes from
Kempinski Geneva, the premier
– the oldest part of this once
du Bourg-de-Four, also in the
the city center, it’s easy to get a
luxury hotel in the city. Although
walled-off city remains charm-
Old Town. The oldest square in
cab or meet your driver and head
there are a variety of high-end
ingly preserved, with cobblestone
Geneva is a meeting place for
into town. Swiss Airlines and
options (the city is, of course,
streets, a great view of the city,
young and old, and the cafés are
Lufthansa have multiple flights
home to the UN as well as one
the historic cathedral (Geneva is
always bustling. They serve light
arriving every day; the airport is
of the world’s centres for luxury
delightfully light on major tourist
snacks along with your pastis or
also served by most other major
goods) the location can’t be beat
attractions), and excellent an-
drink of choice, but make sure
carriers, and is well-equipped
– we recommend a room at the
tique shopping and art galleries
to leave room for dinner – you’re
to handle private planes as well.
front of the hotel for a view of
lining the narrow streets.
going to need it.
Have your car take you down
Lake Geneva.
Quai du Général-Guisan, and catch a glimpse of the Jet d’Eau, 460 feet of high-pressure spray that has become the symbol of this waterfront city.
68
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20:00
10:00am
13:00
16:00
When you’re finished people-
Rent a car and take the
Stop in the town of Chexbres
Head back into Geneva, and
watching in the square, begin
scenic drive up to the Lavaux,
for lunch at Le Baron Tavernier, a
get out onto the lake – if you
your descent down towards the
the terraced vineyards preserved
gorgeous old restaurant and hotel
have a connection at the local
city: you’ll come across Café des
as a UNESCO World Heritage
– and if the weather is warm, be
yacht club, Société Nautique de
Antiquaires which serves clas-
side. It’s about 45 minutes by car
sure to sit out on the deck, where
Genève, the sailing here is excel-
sic Swiss cuisine. If there’s ever
from Geneva, or you can catch a
nothing but a waist-high piece of
lent, if a bit light sometimes. Light
an opportunity for fondue, this
train to Lausanne and connect
glass separates you from the roll-
air, however, is just an excuse to
is it – the meats and bread are
to the Train des Vignes, to tour
ing vineyards and the lake below.
head to the windsurfing beach
delicious and hearty, especially
from vineyard to vineyard. There
As spectacular as the view is the
next to Genève Plage, where
coated in cheese, and they also
are 11 villages within the region,
perch, a local favorite, straight
equipment, lessons and a great
serve raclettes, the traditional
with a complete and well-run
out of the lake below, or else try
social scene are all on offer – the
Swiss (thought not Genevois)
tasting system, but don’t feel ob-
the comparable fera – sweet, firm
rocks surrounding the launching
potato dish. Restaurants stay
ligated to visit them all – walking
white fish that pair beautifully
harbor are draped with happy
open until around 11pm and
up and down the terraces can be
with a glass of Chasselas, the
young people, and spontaneous
there are numerous bars nearby
a bit grueling, and we feel it’s
most popular local grape.
happy hours and dance parties
for a nightcap.
better to go slowly and enjoy.
are known to break out here.
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After your lakeside aperitif
While Geneva isn’t known
Before heading out of down,
As your plane takes off from
head to Hotel de la Paix, for
for its nightlife, there are a few
stroll down the Rue du Rhone
this European centre, you could
dinner at Restaurant Vertig’O.
perennial favorites that continue
and Rue de Rive, the two main
be going almost anywhere in
The
French-Mediter-
to draw crowds – the Platinum
shopping arteries of the city, to
the world – but hopefully the
ranean restaurant is headed by
modern
Club is famous for its music and
take in the vast display of luxury
next time you pass through, the
Chef Jerome Manifacier, who
dance parties, while Le Sip, a
goods for sale. Geneva is the
charms of Switzerland will con-
trained under legendary Swiss
local favorite, is known for their
centre of the watch world, and
vince you to stay a little while.
chef Gerard Rabaey in his three
high-quality cocktails and ware-
you won’t find a better selection
Macaron Michelin-starred res-
house dance floor. But the best
anywhere else at comparable
taurant. Following his focus on
of both worlds is located right
prices to other major cities. This
seasonal ingredients and quality
in the Kempinski Grand itself –
route has the added bonus of
French preparations, the restau-
the highly selective Java Club is
taking you past many of Switzer-
rant quickly became known as
the biggest in Geneva, and hosts
land’s chocolate shops – be sure
one of Geneva’s best.
excellent parties Tuesdays to
to stop in and pick some up. It
Saturdays.
really is that good.
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SADDLE The leading luxury leather house looks to the future
Y
72
UP
ou see them everywhere–strolling Park Av-
production sites, all located in France. We
enue in New York, shopping Knightsbridge
enter the Harmonie workshop, a nondescript
in London, dangling off tanned, toned arms
commercial building just down the street from
in Cannes and Monaco, and stuffed under
Hermès headquarters in Pantin, on the out-
first-class seats of planes all over the world.
skirts of Paris. The waiting area, on this warm
But the Hermès Birkin looks particularly at
summer Friday, is unattended as only a French
home in Paris, reflected in the storefronts of
office on a summer Friday can be, and we peek
the Rue Faubourg, where in the glass vitrines of number 24 contain more
into a vast fabric warehouse ogling piles of
exotic and sought after versions of the iconic handbag than anywhere
silks and cottons until Kerry Hollinger, head
else in the world. This is, in a sense, the ancestral home of the Birkin
of the small leather goods collections, beckons
bag, an enduring symbol of the luxury, good taste and humor of one of the
us onward. She explains that what we’ve been
world’s most legendary luxury houses.
looking at is one of the shirting workshops;
To witness the birth of one of these bags, however, you must head out
Hermès ID is also in this building, where the
of the glamourous city centre and into the suburbs to one of their ten
wildest Hermès customer dreams come
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T H E R E ’ S N O B E T T E R P L A C E T O H I D E AWAY FROM THE REST OF THE WORLD.
Take sanctuary beside the Pacific F O R R E S E RVAT I O N S C A L L Y O U R T R AV E L C O N S U LTA N T, C O N TA C T F O U R S E A S O N S AT 1 - 8 0 0 - 3 3 2 - 3 4 4 2 I N T H E U . S . O R E - M A I L R E S E RVAT I O N S . C O S @ F O U R S E A S O N S . C O M W W W. F O U R S E A S O N S . C O M / C O S TA R I C A
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true–helicopters, boats, motorcycles, anything that can benefit from the
for their own special training. “What they learn
touch of Hermès leather is customised here. But what I’ve really come
isn’t as intricate as what we do, the quality is
to see, she says, is upstairs.
higher,” says Hollinger, and the students
The company, founded in 1837, stayed put in their offices above the
spend about 15 months training in this and
24 rue Faubourg store until 1992, when they were finally forced to ex-
other workshops, by the end of which time they
pand; they’ve already outgrown what they still call “the new offices” and
will have made one Birkin and one Kelly bag,
are continuing to buy as many neighboring buildings as they can. The of-
which between them include all the propri-
ficial number of 10 sites is not exactly correct–there are 10 for bags,
etary details for finishing, inside and out.
plus small leather goods and luggage, plus a special studio for alligator
“They work under someone more experienced
bags, but not the wallets, which are made elsewhere, and not the saddles,
and we really emphasise quality to them over
which are still made above the store, as they have been for the past 172
and over.”
years. The degree of specialisation amongst the 250 craftspeople em-
The apprentices in the workshop we vis-
ployed here and elsewhere is staggering; it’s not just corporate speak
ited were mainly focused, on this sunny Friday afternoon, on mastering sewing and finishing, but each step of the process is as labor-intensive as the next–there are no throwaway tasks. The time it takes to train an apprentice fully is an investment on which the company refuses to cut corners: “After about five years they’re paying for themselves; it takes about ten years to master the whole range,” she says, “and at the end of making a bag, the headmaster does the quality control–if they’re not perfect but can be fixed, he will send them back to the craftsman, if they’re just not up to scratch, they’re destroyed.” The quality control for an Hermès bag begins at the very earliest stage of the process. The leather buyers choose their own skins from the tanners, making selections at each stage of the tanning and finishing processes–they’ll cull from the initial batch, then again after the first tan, then again after the second, and then the buyers make their final picks. The other skins will go to other leather-goods houses, but none of them could be said to be using Her-
when they say that these are workshops, not factories. Indeed, as is im-
mès leather–it’s that eye for the best that
mediately evident when we step out of the elevator, it is the physical and
makes their bags what they are. This, of course
philosophical opposite of a vast room full of people as interchangeable
refers just to calfskin; Hermès produces many
as the parts they’re making–everything, everyone, is specialised.
exotic skin bags as well, and recently made
In the Harmonie workshop, one is witnessing not just the creation of
headlines with the news that they were breed-
the legendary bags, but the creation of something the company consid-
ing their own crocodiles in order to fill the de-
ers just as important as its products–a new generation of artisans, trained
mand for their bags–a practice that makes
since their youth to be the best of the best. France has a leather school
sense if you consider the disposition of croco-
from which Hermès takes the top eight students and apprentices them
diles and the difficulty of finding one in the
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wild with the unscarred, undamaged skin nec-
to finish. “We know who did each of the bags,” says Hollinger, “it’s im-
essary for a bag. Regardless of the type, the
portant for our pride and for our quality.” Each craftsperson has their
skins go next to the cutters, who select from
own tools, and each station reflects the various heights, hands, and
the skins for particular work orders and cut
quirks of its owner–the apprentices learn over time to arrange their
them to specifications, and the neatly wrapped
things just as they will need them.
packages of cut leather forms arrive in flat
We move from table to table, observing some of the dozens of steps
plastic bags at the workshops, packaged with
that go into creating one of these bags. Each edge, for instance, has a line
shiny shrink-wrapped hardware and the details
that’s hand-embossed along the threadline–“they have to get the pres-
of each work order–everything the assigned
sure and oil just right,” she says–a detail which many companies ma-
craftsman will need to make the bag from start
chine onto their leather bags to simulate that same effect. Little bits of bags and leather, like bright flowers, pepper the workshop–here, the handle of a tool is wrapped in red pebbled leather; there, the rough edge of a metal hanging rack is padded with a strip of hot pink kidskin. All the leathers are coloured on site by hand; the first crafstwoman we pass is putting together the second of a pair of bag handles, all leather inside and out–a leather core wrapped in a finished leather strip. Many are busily chatting and edging at the same time. The edge finishing is a slow, methodical process; Hermès edges are always dyed brown or black, in keeping with their roots as a saddlery, and just one of the almost imperceptible details that gives their bags that classic look. Coat after coat of dye is applied, let to dry, and then the edges are sanded into a perfectly smooth, rounded half-moon edge. In the hour we were there, there were several women who did nothing but this, sanding away at edges so perfectly beveled it was impossible for the casual observer to believe they were shaped by hand, let alone had any irregularities–but then again, these are not casual observers, and, says Hollinger, “Its sanded and dyed as many times as it takes to get it right–there are layers and layers on it by the end.” Two tables in the back have larger bags gripped in cork-lined vises; a 40cm camel leather Birkin and a larger Kelly bag in a dreamy grayblue color, one of the newest introductions to the range. Both craftspeople are absorbed in saddle stitching the thick layers of the tops of the bags, the signature stitch that makes wealthy women all over the world confident that they can stuff their handbags full of the detritus of a life well-lived, throw it into the backseat or drop it on the floor, and it will still look every penny’s worth as beautiful as the day it came out of its orange box. Done with two needles, the saddle stich is a very strong and secure stitch, a legacy, as the name suggests, from Hermès’ roots as a saddlery. A single piece of sturdy linen thread is covered in beeswax then stitched from both ends, a matter of practical importance that guarantees if one stitch breaks, the rest of the thread won’t fall apart, and it can go without being restitched indefinitely–perhaps not a priority for a modern handbag, but a definite asset on a horse’s saddle mid-ride or mid-show. The craftsperson uses an awl to make a hole, then deftly switches the awl for the needle and pulls both ends of the thread through
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to make a very tight knot. Hollinger interjects, “When they start stitching, they finish; they don’t take breaks, they don’t go out–because maybe after lunch, they wont have the same energy, the same stitch.” And truly, even as I peer over their shoulders, those in the middle of their stitching remain in their Zen-like calm–chatting with their neighbours, music playing, but clearly absorbed in the rhythm of their work. The bags are actually made inside out, the basis for Hermès’ claim that every inch of their bags are equally perfect–an almost unfathomable thing to imagine, except that then a woman beckons us over to the corner, where a black bag that would look at home on the shelf of any boutique sits on her work table. “Black lizard,” whispers Hollinger, “she’s been here a while. You wouldn’t want to start on one of those!” and indeed, as she picks up the bag, flips the handles to point towards the floor and begins to firmly, literally, snake them down the sides of the bag, working the squeaking leather centimeter by centimeter, I would indeed not want that. I’m not even touching the bag and I’m breaking out in a nervous sweat, watching approximately $15,000 of material, history, and human labour take such punishment. She smiles, in on the joke, as she pushes out the first corner of the bag’s bottom panel with an audible “pop!” and then suddenly, three “pops!” later, there it is, not entirely finished but fully recognisable in its black, glossy glory, a 30cm Birkin bag. With nary a break in the action, she reaches for a dull wooden knife and begins working in the folds on the side of the bag, the end of her labor nearing. Her neighbour, a very dashing young blonde Frenchman, is finishing work on the hardware, one of the last steps in the process, and requiring skills beyond that of a leatherworker into that of a silversmith–each piece of hardware is nailed through the leather, and then the end of the nail is cut off and hammered down carefully until its formed into a nailhead, making it nearly impossible for the hardware to fall off. “Every little bit is hand finished,” notes Hollinger almost unnecessarily, as I am nearly dizzy with the amount of considered detail in every step of the process, from the interior finishing to the cabinet of linen threads, in every color they produce plus
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white, which is not even a white, just the natural color of the high-quality linen thread. Different amounts of time are allotted per bag varying according to size and material–a basic Birkin is about 15 hours; 23-24 hours for crocodile, and it only goes up from there. “All the detailing makes the bags costly, not expensive–it adds up to so many hours by so many people,” Hollinger says, which of course raises the inevitable question when discussing Hermès handbags–how is it possible that a bag sold at a price which is more than many people make in a year has waiting lists that are years old? And in a larger sense, how has this company, which sells only the highest end leather, silk, china and other luxury goods, managed to not only survive but thrive and grow in the midst of an economic crisis?
T
he answer, according to Robert Chavez, CEO of Hermès
USA, is their deep understanding of their customer and their commitment to their product. Hermès has never been about ubiquity or flash, and that understated image is both more
attractive to their key customers and easier to maintain. “We want a very limited distribution for our products, and I think that’s key to weathering the storm–and we’ve been really all right so far. Remember last fall’s 70 percent off sales? I remember walking into Saks Fifth Avenue, seeing designer merchandise thrown all over the place, being sold for nothing. I was horrified. We didn’t do it; people came in and said “Don’t you have anything on sale? Everything else is on sale.” We just said no, sorry, and it helped us–our customers fell off a bit, but it’s helped us in the long run to maintain.” He also guided them past several other potential pitfalls that befell many of their competitors, rather than falling in to the lure of ever-larger stores and ever-easier money. “I draw a bit from them, but it’s more about what not to do. We have great creative people here figuring out where we can go, so they come up with their ideas, and its up to me to see what we have to avoid. Every time I see some gigantic megaflagship, I think my god, I’m glad that’s not us, and I think right now a lot of them are regretting things like that.” Hermès’ devotion to their core customers, a systematic program of communication between sales associates and regulars that was implemented at the beginning of Chavez’s tenure, has seen dividends. “A lot of the once a year shoppers, who come in to buy that one tie, that one bracelet, they dropped off significantly this year, but our regulars stayed with us. There was some pulling back, which the staff saw, but for the most part they’re still here.” And, he says, their commitment is not just to moving product, but to truly understanding and making their customers happy when they enter a store. “There’s always been a feeling of wanting to surprise our clients, that’s a word we use a lot around here. There’s always been an effort to do new things.” However, that surprise never comes at the cost of the key elements that are the signature of the
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brand. “I think people know us for three things. They know us for
the beginning of the recession, and their com-
leather–bags, sure, but also belts, small leather goods, other things, and
petitors are scrambling to get back to a simi-
then of course for silk as well. The third thing is really our colour.”
larly stable position.
Colour, he explains, is an icon at Hermès–“ people notice it and appre-
Back in the Harmonie workshop, we in-
ciate it. I saw the color kitchen in Lyon, where we’ve made something
hale the smell of cauterising leather, growing
like 70,000 colours, and it’s just incredible, something people respond
smooth under what looks like the stroke of an
to. And of course different colours will sell in different places, maybe
electric fountain pen, our guide remarks that it
bright pinks and greens in Palm Beach and darker colours in Boston–but
was only 16 years ago that they heated the
that’s what is again great about the buyers [who hand-select what they
smoothing tools on Bunsen burners sitting on
want to stock from each collection for their particular stores and cus-
their tables, requiring yet another layer of abil-
tomers]. It also creates a funny phenomenon–if you see something in a
ity to gauge just how hot your tool was. Elec-
store that you love, you better buy it, because you might not see it again.
tricity, frankly, seems like a better idea in a
It even happens to me, I remember being somewhere and seeing a tie I
room full of dangling bits of cloth and thread
loved and then thinking, oh, well, okay, I’ll just get it when I get back to
and leather, and the craftswoman smiles wryly
New York, and when I got here they’d sold out of them entirely. And once
when the Bunsen burners are mentioned.
they’re gone, there’s no more.” It may seem counter-intuitive, but the
Progress has not left the workshop untouched,
company has posted increasing profits in the two toughest quarters since
but certain aspects of this traditional labor
HERMES_31July 11/09/2009 14:18 Page 83
necessarily retain an old-fashioned feel. For instance, men usually work on larger bags–not out of any ingrained preference, she explains, but it takes a lot of strength to stitch through that much leather. “In the trunk workshop, they’re making a hole and then stitching through layers of wood and leather together. In the small leather goods workshops, the staff is almost entirely female, where we need smaller fingers to finesse the stitching and turning.” There is no preference given to anything other than the absolute top level of skill, and that makes hiring difficult enough. “You really need someone who wants to work with their hands, wants to work in a group, but there are places here to grow. They do advance, but they have to be very gifted to begin with.” Of the few people who have left, Hollinger says, “a lot of those came back–it’s just not pos-
“There’s always been a feeling of wanting to surprise our clients, to do new things”
sible to do this level of work anywhere else.” The nature of Hermès as a family company and a French company means that constant hiring and firing is not a habit or even a possibility were more labor were available, so instead, we have this–the best people, using the best materials, to make the best product they can, every time. n
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TWO OF A KIND Osvaldo Patrizzi’s New York City showroom, high over Madison Avenue, is full of empty display cases. Normally this would be worrisome, but when your work is auctioning off some of the rarest and most expensive watches, clocks, and timepieces to the highest echelon of collectors in the world, a room full of empty cases is a very good thing.
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Mr. Patrizzi, chiseled and handsome at 64 as only an Italian can be,
100K: How did you transition from watchmaking to auction-
sits in the conference room with his partner, Philip Poniz (whose busi-
eering?
ness card reads “Expert-in-Chief”) against the backdrop of a window
OP: I became a watchmaker because I had to work to make money
engraved “Patrizzi & Co.” The watch expert and chairman of the auction
for my family. When I had enough experience around the world and
house has been in the watch business for just over 50 years; indeed, he
especially around Europe, I saw that Milano was too small. It’s okay,
created much of the watch business as we now know it. With the found-
it’s a big city, it’s probably the number one city in Italy for industry, but
ing of his first auction house, Antiquorum, he is credited with essen-
it’s small. One of the best ways to succeed is to have a different kind of
tially creating the market for collecting high-end watches, and now, with
instrument, and to get to know people, and the best way to do that is the
Patrizzi & Co., he’s taken the experience gained over a lifetime to create
auction. You have the world in front of you; if you have a nice boutique
a new concept in auctioneering. Founded in April of 2008, the company
you have the street. It’s why I enjoy the auction. Today, if we have one
is truly collector-driven – it takes advantage of multi-screen technology
watch in New York, ten minutes later China, South America, they know,
to allow state-of-the-art virtual auctions, which for the collector means
they say wow, that’s a lot of money. It’s really a test market for what the
they can follow multiple threads within the auction at once, and for the
value of the watches is, for buying and selling.
house means moving up to 1,500 pieces per auction, rather than the limit of four or five hundred that most sites can currently handle. They’ve also
100K: How do you fi nd the watches that you auction? Do
eliminated the buyer’s commission, a considerable change, since most
you source from individuals, from companies, from other
houses charge 20-25 percent of the sale price added to the cost, a fee
avenues?
which can be considerable when auctioning items in the millions of dol-
Philip Poniz: Yesterday, I was speaking with our partner in Los An-
lars. As Patrizzi & Co. is just celebrated their first anniversary after a
geles, who mentioned that Osvaldo was in Los Angeles for one day; he
very successful year, we went to the man himself to hear his thoughts on
got about € 686 thousand or so of watches. I like mushrooms, when
watches, auctions, and what he’s doing now.
I go to the woods, I pick mushrooms. When Osvaldo goes anywhere, he picks up watches, I don’t know how, but that’s what he does! They
100 Thousand Club: How did you get started in the watch in-
just come to him. I know almost all watch people, there’s no one like
dustry:
Osvaldo, not even close.
Osvaldo Patrizzi: With watches? Oh, I had to. My father died when I
OP: Today, it’s a good day!
was thirteen years old, and I had to work. I had an apprenticeship in a
PP: Usually, we quarrel.
watch and clock workshop and it started my interest and my passion for
This, we note, is patently untrue. Poniz joined Patrizzi at Antiquorum
watches, and after I saw that I had an interest not only from the technical
in 2000, and stayed with him after the dramatic breakup of Antiquo-
point of view but the historical. I was smart, I was artistic, but I thought
rum in the summer of 2007. After Artist House, the Japanese hold-
people were such geniuses to have invented this mechanism to give you
ing company, purchased a 50 percent stake in Antiquorum, disputes
the information you want, astronomic, astrological…today you have the
between the investors and the founder led to a series of disputes, firings
GSM, the sun, and the watch. And the watch is able to, with precision,
(including Patrizzi’s own ouster) and a flurry of lawsuits on both sides.
with the position of the stars and the sun, tell you where you are.
Patrizzi never dwells on what happened between him and the company
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he founded, though his anger at what took place was well-documented
portant is especially to show them that myself and the team that wanted
in the press the following year. The reticence we expected on the sub-
to join me, they’re the best people, more knowledge and experience
ject of his former firm never manifested itself; he seems to have chan-
than anyone in the world. I had somebody yesterday ask me “How many
nelled that energy into his new venture, and is enjoying coming from
experts at our level are there in the world?” and I said, maybe eleven?
a very different place professionally – he comes in this time at the top
And two are in the same company, in this room, it is fantastic. We
of his game, in a market that he himself is credited with creating, with
though we’d open a new company, to do what we like.
remarkable personal connections to the top experts, buyers, and sellers
PP: Wait, I thought it was just for fun!
in the watch world.
OP: It is fun, we have a lot of fun. We have a lot of problems, but the fun makes it easy to resolve the problems.
100K: What was is like to start over?
86
OP: You mean between Antiquorum and now?
100K: What’s been your biggest sale so far?
I started [Patrizzi & Co.] for one special reason, to show that what the
OP: There was a fantastic sale of renaissance clocks in May, in Milano.
company said about me, it wasn’t true. I mean, can you imagine, I have
It was fantastic not only because we had so many clocks and early
35 years of experience auctioning, 50 in the watch world, even some-
watches from one owner, but also these clocks are in excellent condi-
body comeing in with all the problems I have, and I’m able to start a
tion. We practically never get to exercise all of our passion, not only
new company with no problems. Zero. Normally when you try to start
for the wristwatches, but also for the clocks. The watches, sometimes
with a problem like that on your back, with the lawyers, the money…I
they’re boring, this is several centuries, several different styles, dif-
lost some money in Antiquorum, okay, but it’s no problem. What is im-
ferent mechanical concepts. When you have the chance to see it all
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together, it’s really, really incredible. There are not many today who are interested in buying this kind of horological art. And also we had a spring sale in Geneva that was very good, and one in New York, and some very important watches coming up in September, there’s a watch that will get probably a million dollars. We’re cataloging everything now. The best souvenir for the moment is this collection of clocks. 100K: You pioneered some new ideas in auctions, including the themed sale, which you’ve continued to fi nd success with. What do you think makes people respond to them? OP: The idea to create the themed sale came from the way this business normally is done. You have some interested people, really cultivating one brand, one type of horology, but from the historical point of view, only. And missing on the market were people who didn’t just approach the expert, because there’s the collector approach. We live every day with the collectors, we know what the collector wants, what they want to see, what we have to explain. The thematic sale for us is the event where we can go deep on the history of the subject, to explain in an easy way for a dealer, collector or amateur who wants to know the brand or the subject. Also, themed sales are supported by a lot of promotions, it is commercial, most of its made by the collectors themselves. They’re
Above: Osvaldo Patrizzi, Chairman Below: Philip Poniz, Founding Partner
talking watches 18 hours a day. It’s a lot of work, the thematic sale, but the interest in the brand comes from something we decide, something important, like a jubilee, or the anniversary of an iconic model of that brand, or we decide to focus on one kind of horology, say English or French. Or…remember Antiquorum in Love? PP: That was a good sale. OP: That was a very good sale. We have to see the historical point of view, what gives us a reason to focus. When we have this reason we start to find the pieces, to find them, to describe and explain what the sale means and what we want to show, and we see the customer respond to that. The approach is totally different than the classic approach. PP: Nothing like that in the history of the world, has ever been assembled. 100K: Will you seek out watches along the lines of a particular theme, or does the theme follow what you’re fi nding? OP: If we find a watch collection where the collection is possible for a thematic sale, we start to see if we have an intellectual interest, its important that it not just be a collection of very nice watches, and then we do an auction. We need to have something to talk about, something to explain. If we find that its just one kind, one style, we have to have an argument to explain at the beginning, to create an auction theme. I think it’s a choice we made from the beginning, in 1974 when I started, then it
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was really only Sothebys and Christies, who were selling. When I started,
significantly. We discovered that the chronograph, the return to zero, it
my choice was to go directly to the buyer, to explain and describe. You
was made about 30 years before it was thought to have been made. We
don’t explain and describe it the same way to the dealers. And we started
discovered the beginnings of Patek Phillipe, we’re still working on that.
with this kind of education from the beginning, because the more people
Many things, from horological analysis, we created a number of historic
that have knowledge, the more that have the interest, and the ability to
changes. Sixty percent of the watches that are in the most important ho-
pay. And that is what happened.
rological museum [Patek’s own museum] came through us.
PP: Take the Art of American Horology. It was something which was
OP: From what I hear yesterday in LA, we are only at the beginning.
worth doing because American horology has a very special effect. He
There’s a machine that costs millions that can make a perfect watch.
decided to do it, and when I go to shows now, people talk about it, and it
For the future, it’s important. It makes it a million times more precise,
was what, 10 years ago? Nobody else has done anything like this.
really millions, and its easier, cheaper, one wheel that would cost €7,
OP: It’s true, you know, this approach, here and at Antiquorum, it cre-
with this machine, costs €2, and it has the capacity to finish and be
ated a lot of interest around watches, even in Switzerland. In 1975, only
developed in the next 10 to 15 years, to develop the most incredible
two students followed a horological path in school. They were thinking of
watches in a medium size, not larger and larger. We’re much more in-
closing, because no one was interested in mechanical watches. In 1980-
terested in the kind of horology of craftsmen, but from a technical point
81, when we were starting to sell those watches and focusing on those
of view its fantastic.
“when I go to the woods, I pick mushrooms. When Osvaldo goes anywhere, he picks up watches,I don’t know how, but that’s what he does! ” watches as a collectible, there were 24 students in the programme. Is it
100K: Why is there emphasis on making watches smaller when
just because of us? Probably there were always people who loved watches,
the trend has been to make them bigger?
but people forget, if they don’t have people showing them what’s nice, reg-
OP: At times, our interest, we explain to the customer, a lot of times
ularly exciting them about what we do. This was the quartz period, and
they don’t know the difference between a normal watch and an extra
it caused a lot of problems. From 1980-90, we’re missing a generation of
flat watch. A lot of people don’t understand the importance to be small
watchmakers. The 1970s watchmaker changed from watches to electron-
and flat – why? Because a smaller watch costs much more than a bigger
ics. After, we’re starting again with manual and mechanical, and they’ve
watch. Today, sure, people like bigger, it’s showier, but at the time small
come back. Today we have probably the best period in horological history,
meant capacity, manual capacity, precision, requiring much more than
where the watch industry makes incredible watches. We’re changing from
a normal size watch. And flat, it required the ability to work in very
horology to kinetic art, it’s a very nice evolution. We want to create our
small dimensions, its much more explain. To explain why an extra flat
own customers, we want to tell them our passion first, and the way we see
watch costs much more than a large watch, its’ hard to explain based
our business. When we get together, Philip and I, we don’t talk football,
on what we like. We have to show them and get them to participate and
we don’t talk women, we don’t talk cars, we talk watches.
get pleasure out of it.
Patrizzi’s communications manager overhears this and begins to
PP: 22mm difference could be a 100 percent increase in the price. This
hassle him about his lack of outside interests – a particular issue when
is in watches made in the beginning of the 20th century.
trying to get him to engage in, say, Twitter. He laughs at the gentle
You didn’t mention the concepts! The entire idea!
teasing, but then focuses in with his signature combination of excited
OP: About the new auction?
gesticulation and intense concentration.
PP: About the collectors, friends, not making them pay…
OP: But, okay, watches are not a boring subject! You have so many
OP: One of our qualities in this business is not to take advantage of
developments in art, engraving, enamel, repoussé, technical technical,
the situation, to go deep in what we do, but also to see what’s missing,
and many times, it so rich, we have to think for days and days to under-
what is not logical, or some situation where the business is driven by
stand what the watchmaker made 200 years ago, by hand, to create one
the financial people and not by the experts. It’s important to put the
watch, one escapement, one complication…
church in the middle of the village. That’s why we decided with this
PP: During our research, we have advanced the history of horology
new company to start a new concept, and the concept is to give the real
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value to the buyer, to eliminate the buyer’s commission and to become a
are more stable than some other art because its small, easy to transport
partner with the vendor. It’s difficult sometimes for people to approach
and there’s a worldwide appreciation. It’s more difficult for the Chinese
the auction when they don’t know how much they’re going to have to pay.
to appreciate a piece of modern art than a watch, because it’s known
Emotion pushes them to go up, up, and up and afterwards they come
worldwide. Pieces of modern art, from a new artist…this is much more
down, and start to think “Oh, how much do I have to pay now? I have
of an investment. Philip just come from Shanghai and I think, well, why
to pay 0 68.6 thousand, plus the commission is € 86 thousand, plus tax
don’t you ask him?
is € 92.7 thousand, my god, 30-40 percent you pay on service. This is
PP: I called Osvaldo and said “We’ve got to establish an office in China,
important because it’s 30-40 percent of the auction house charges of
we’ve got to.” The level of sophistication and interest of the Chinese is
the value.
remarkable, and it’s developed very quickly. I believe that the most ex-
If you want to include the service in the value of the watch, you have to reduce the value of the watch, to reduce the estimation and give the
pensive watch from our next sale, the Only Watch, will be bought by a Chinese collector.
lowest bid to the buyer and say its low, I’d go up. Its not the reality of the market, when at auction you’re selling, the estimation still exists,
100K: Is it difficult establishing presence in Asia?
people don’t understand why the sale prices are up and down. If I put
OP: It’s much more difficult to find good people. To find a place, no, to
down 100, I pay 100, its simpler from the buyer’s point of view, and
get the documents and meet people, no, but to find nice people to work in
from our point of view, if you know how much you’ll pay, maybe you’ll
the same spirit, its not easy, because you need time to see who is really
buy more. It’s simpler. And if we send to the vendor this watch worth
passionate, or just trying to make money. After so many years, though, we
up to € 69 thousand, we start at € 41 thousand and split the difference,
know people who are able to help us.
he says okay, he tries to make the best for everyone. We don’t just to sell to get to the commission at any price, its not important how much
100K: You seem to consider new collectors in your thinking
it fetches, just to get the auction house the commission to survive. It’s
quite a bit; what was your first watch?
a friendly approach and a transparent approach, and today with a real
OP: The first watch I ever bought…I received it when I made First Com-
global market, this kind of transparency helps a lot, and we see the
munion, when I was 11; it was a Zodiac. At the time, it was like, wow.
result, we have spectacular sales.
My first purchase, I was probably 14, but it was not for myself, just to buy something to sell it. In Italy at the time, the fashion was to buy the
100K: Have you noticed an influx of new watches in the eco-
English style long-case clocks, and many of the companies change their
nomic downturn? Do you think people are trying to recoup
names for Italy. I remember I bought one very nice long-case clock from
some of what they may have invested in watches?
Scotland, I put it at home in my apartment, and after a few days, some-
OP: To buy new watches to make money, it’s not a very clever idea. You
body came in and wanted to buy it, and I said no, this is for me – but hey,
have to buy the watches because you like them and you have the capacity
if I sell it, I make money!
to buy and get pleasure out of them. It’s a mistake at the beginning to think
90
that, “I’ll buy the watch at the next watch show and keep it six months
100K: Do you fi nd that a lot of watch collectors are interested
and sell it for a profit.” You don’t buy one car and keep it six months
in clocks?
and expect to make money. You have some cars and some watches that
OP: At the time in Italy, most people were interested in clocks. They
are so rare that are made in so few models that are so spectacular that
were easy because you enter in the house and see them; in watches you
sometimes, yes, its true, the limited number, the quantity of demand push
need to keep them in safes, go to the bank to see them. If watch collec-
up the price, but most of your new wristwatches are time instruments, not
tors now buy clocks, it’s just for decoration. The pocketwatch collectors
investments. You have to give at the time what they want and keep it while
sometimes overlap, because a pocketwatch and clocks come from the
the price evolves for 10 or 15, after 20 or 30 years the price will be stable
same kind of passion. Wristwatches are a different world, and different
and it will be vintage. But not in two or three years.
age. Watches, the youngest watch collector we have is 11 years old, he
I think it’s a mistake in the beginning to buy for investment; you
came with his mother to the auction, and the mother said, my son is bid-
should buy what you like. And what you like depends on the amount
ding, whatever he does is okay. He bought four, five, six watches, very very
of money you have, the pleasure you get, you buy what you like. Later,
clever choices, very nice. He was Chinese, he bought for a real amount
collecting for investment, its possible. We see that when the value of the
of money, € 50 thousand. Wristwatches are probably around 55-60 years
money goes up, the value of everything else goes down, but the watches
old, the people. Pocketwatches start probably at 25 and go up from there.
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And clocks are probably more around 40-50 years old, the average age of
ing with several people, collectors, investors, but also musicians, and
a collector.
when I was talking music, I see that, I think okay, in my next life, I’d like to go down that path. I like piano, the violin. It’s fantastic because
100K: And what do you wear now?
these people are from a foundation for young musicians, we find one
OP: Now, it’s a Rolex Daytona, with the dial that’s changed color. I was
young guy who plays fantastically and needs money, and decided to
the first to realise this kind of mistake, and collect them.
support him.
PP: He was the first to realise that certain types of Rolex dials with age,
PP: Ah! Now I understand the concert before our last Milano auction!
change colours. Collectors started calling those dials Patrizzi’s dials.
We organised a concert of string instruments, but the real old strings,
OP: This is my own brand, Rolex! But really, what is nice is that these
the way they used to be strung a 100 years ago, natural guts. A little
mistakes sometimes are so charming, we see in the plate collections
bit softer, it was hard to organise when he was in Paris, but he brought
some color, from black to chocolate, or chocolate to red, or bluish—
an orchestra from London to Milan and it made quite an impact. Maybe
you’d never produce it. Like Indian Summer.
that’s why we sold those clocks so well! OP: Especially because the music was specially composed for clocks.
92
100K: Did you ever consider taking your career in another di-
PP: Yes, I forgot, about the music, not many people know about Mozart
rection? What would you be doing if you weren’t doing this?
and others, they made music for clocks. This was a concert from that
OP: I’m very happy with what I do. Just yesterday, we had a meet-
music. They were making very sophisticated music.
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100K: IS that something you see yourself doing more of?
The commercial part, from the psychological point of view, that the
OP: I think we have to think, I’d like if one day we could do American
manufacturers decided to accept it, decided to put their name with our
music, to get an American composer from that same period, because
name, this is very important. It means a lot to us after what happened,
they’re really two different things but so similar in some ways. Some-
to have 100 percent support and it’s a pleasure to do something there.
thing that explains another thing.
And this is something really new, somebody from Singapore with
PP: We got the oldest existing American-made watch, from the 1760s.
somebody from Richemont asked me if we’re interesting in making,
A watch with a really unusual escapement. The ébauche bounces, the
every year or every two years, one new concept at Basel, only for a
finish and everything is American. A remarkable piece. We got it be-
spectacular watch, just to create an event, push people worldwide to
cause of the Art of American sale.
talk about something spectacular.
OP: Oh?
PP: Like a contest – one watch, and one of the most important manu-
PP: And, it’s from a clock collector! It requires an article, it requires
facturers.
someone to write good music for it.
OP: The Basel fair, the Geneva fair, it’s nice, but it’s made for production, its made for a thousand, ten thousand – this, we’ll make one.
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100K: So what’s coming up next for Patrizzi & Co.?
It’ll push the boundaries…it’s so important that they see the capacity
OP: Next, I can’t tell you, because we haven’t signed the contract
and the savoir faire of the watch industry, the manufacturers. This is
yet, but the company is very famous, in the next year they’re having
really something.
a very important anniversary, and the company is really interested in
PP: For Only Watch, they made something that has been not unheard
giving to us and to explain to the public their brand and model that’s
of, but unthinkable. They changed the meaning of time. They made a
very important, to explain the design, and how the model changed
watch where you can adjust your pace of time, literally. It’s a philoso-
the way we produce and made watches. I’ll tell you, it’s not Rolex, it’s
pher’s stone sort of watch, literally. If the time goes well for you, if you’re
not Patek.
having a good time, you switch the lever, and the watch goes slowly so
We also have the Only Watch, which is a special sale, important
the time expands twice as big. The other way around, if it’s a lousy time,
for several reasons. The auction is for a charity, the whole amount is
everything goes bad, stressful, you switch the lever to the other side, and
given to research for muscular dystrophy. I founded it with Luc Pet-
the time starts flying. Then of course when you come to your senses, you
tavino four or five years ago, and asked each manufacturer to give us
put the lever in the middle and the hands go regular time. Nothing like
one watch. It went very well, with the patronage of these companies,
that had ever been thought of, to say nothing of making – they made it
and being in Monaco is important. We asked for watches for selling,
for us, for this Only Watch.
and sold them well because its during the Monaco Yacht Show, the
OP: The approach is very interesting, because practically we go out
best event for boats, which brings to the same place, a few square
of what is the gold standard regulation of watchmaking. It’s really a
metres, billionaires from all over the world, and we can show them
philosophical point of view, and like I said, kinetic. Finally, it’s not more
something different than boats. And the second year, when the cata-
important than time, but when I met with another guy [from the watch
log was prepared, we had the fight with Antiquorum; last year, the
company MBR], it was really the new frontier. When I saw this watch,
manager of the yacht show, after I’d already opened this company,
I’d been to the offices, and I said “Nice, okay, its different, it’s a new con-
asked if I wanted to do it again, the Only Watch. I said yes, but we
ception, but I don’t see the time.” And it’s not important! You make the
decided to change the aspect of the sale, and the reason for the sale.
watch but it’s not important that it tells the time. We started talking and I
Not where the money goes, but the idea is really to make a gala of
opened my mind and I thought ah, maybe we’re not talking about a watch,
extraordinary watches.
we’re talking about a piece of art. And because the idea comes from the
Just to get watches for selling, okay, it’s nice, but it’s not exciting
mechanical pieces, it becomes kinetic art. It’s not important what they
enough to do three times, people won’t find a reason to pay double just
do. When I ask him, “But who is your customer?” because they produce
for charity. But for an extraordinary, unique piece, yes. We explained
35 watches a year, no more, he gave me the names and practically all
to the watch manufacturers the project, and we got a fantastic result,
these people are major collectors worldwide of modern art.
because all the major manufacturers decided to produce a special
Practically it’s that concept, to do something, use the shape, the
watch for this occasion – one watch, one incredible watch. And you have
wrist, that is logical with the personality of the owner, and sometimes
some watches, the evolution of them, they’re modern and still unique,
you make these; it’s not a time instrument, it’s a piece of art moving to
or they’re the first of a very small series, still with something different.
help you find more or less where you are – what kind of time is now.
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BARVIKHA HOTEL CO ED_co proof 11/09/2009 13:36 Page 96
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100 Thousand Club
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Walking on Sunshine By Natalie Brandweiner
R
upert Sanderson’s footwear collections have
London – its famous graduates include the
long had a reputation in the fashion industry,
notable Jimmy Choo, Beatrix Ong and Emma
but it is 2010 that is set to be his most explosive
Hope – and armed with his degree certificate,
year. He has already this year teamed up with
he began his apprenticeship under the guard-
Karl Lagerfeld for the fashion mogul’s Fall ’09
ian craftsmanship of Sergio Rossi and Bruno
show in March, announced his first ever pop-up
Magli. He describes working alongside these
shop in Paris in the same month, and celebri-
Italian greats as a “real privilege,” and the in-
ties such as Cheryl Cole and Sienna Miller are
fluence of the individual Italian style, as well
increasingly spotted wearing his shoes.
as the quality, is easily spotted throughout his
Rupert’s story as a designer originated far
work. “It informed me on my approach to my
outside of London. Born in Penang, Malaysia,
own business – ‘piccolo e bello’ as the Ital-
it seems no coincidence that he shared the
ians say. Large groups are good for economies
same birthplace as Jimmy Choo, but, rather
of scale and muscle in the market but don’t
differently, Rupert’s interest in crafting shoes
always work for everyone,” he says.
originated in his passion for architecture. “As
It was his journey across Italy during his
a boy I was always interested in architecture
summer break at Cordwainers that formulated
and the structure of designs such as boats,”
his passion for the Italian craftsmanship that
he explains. “This somehow turned into a pas-
has become synonymous with luxury and
sion for shoes which have a similar construc-
sensuous design. On the back of a motorbike,
tion. I worked in advertising for a number of
he travelled across the region, visiting shoe
years after university, and at a certain point I
factories and tanneries, which later was seen
realised I had taken the wrong fork in life and
to be a huge influence on his style of design.
knew I had to pursue my love of a good shoe.”
“My travels made me realise that there is a
He enrolled on a shoe-making course at
wonderful world out there of people who still
the world-renowned Cordwainers College in
specialise in making things. Manufacturing is
100 Thousand Club
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not a big automated oily business – it can be a man making a good living making the world’s most beautiful buttons,” Rupert says. In 2008, Rupert founded Fashion Fringe Shoes with Colin McDowell, with the aim of discovering new talent. “The idea for Fashion Fringe shoes sprung from my experience of living and working in Italy for Sergio Rossi. I gained so much knowledge about the actual craft and construction of shoes that I was lucky enough to take a controlling interest in my own factory. I thought it would be good to give a really talented young designer the chance to have a similar experience to help them on their way,” he says. In the same year, Rupert became recognised for his designs and was awarded Accessory Designer of the Year at the 2008 British Fashion Awards, as well as receiving the same title at the Elle Style Awards. Such recognition so early on in his career was, as he describes, “Vindication of all the hard work, from everybody for everybody. Elle have always been a fantastic supporter of my work, and I appreciate the honour.” Elle are certainly not his only supporters. A year later and the stir within the industry of his award-winning designs gained him support from Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche. The department store invited Rupert to open his first ever pop-up store in the French capital in March this year, just as Paris fashion week began, with Rupert hosting a selection from his Spring/Summer ’09 collection. A London based designer, Rupert’s shoes are designed for what he describes as, “Clever, sexy and self-assured women who know what suits them. Women who wear their shoes, and don’t want something to wear them.” He loves women with the style to really pull off his shoes, from “a Russian oligarch’s wife in full sail,” to his British countrywomen, who he says are “a wonderful mix of the conventional and fashionable ambitions.” Living and working amidst the London scene provides
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Rupert with the perfect means to indulge
duction of Aida, which is under the direction
what he calls his “inexhaustible appetite for
of the super stellar David McVicar, so expect
the London life.” However, the origins of his
a little Egyptian influence in my Spring/
designs remain firm, and he enjoys leaving
Summer ’10 collection. I am also in talks with
the city to spend time with his young family in
Disney with regard to the new Alice in Won-
his half-built house and factory in Italy.
derland film. There is a lot happening in the
However, the best is yet to come. Within
Rupert Sanderson camp.”
the same month as the opening of the pop-up
So what are we to expect for his Spring/
store in Paris, Rupert is asked to collaborate
Summer 2010 collection? “I’ve lightened and
with Karl Lagerfeld on the fashion mogul’s
simplified things,” he says. “I think (hope)
Autumn/Winter ’09 collection, fulfilling a
the world has tired a bit of the monster plat-
dream of many shoe designers. In a post on
form. Simple, sexy cigarette heels and playful
his hugely read blog for Vogue’s online site,
twists on familiar themes,” will be his focus
Rupert could not contain his excitement fol-
for the foreseeable future, echoing a return to
lowing the success of the show: “Back stage
craftsmanship and femininity we’re beginning
was all you wanted it to be – I even heard him
to see bubbling up from underneath the foot-
name check me to a journalist – if anyone
wear insanity of 2009. As Rupert’s designs
needs me I’ll be on cloud nine.”
continue to gain popularity, we expect noth-
So what’s next for this increasingly successful designer? 2010 is set to see Rupert
ing less from this young talent than to stay similarly ahead of the curve.
designing once again for Lagerfeld, which he describes as being hugely inspiring. “I am also involved in the Royal Opera’s 2010 pro-
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Nestled in the cozy back room of Manhattan’s Gramercy Tavern is an intimate gathering of about a dozen journalists and reporters talking amongst themselves over white wine, mushroom lasagna, and striped bass. Shortly before the table is surrounded by servers waiting to simultaneously set down the salad plates, Pierpaolo Barzan stands. Relaxed in jeans, a John Varvatos blazer, and slightly tousled dark locks, he stands to greet the table with ease. He doesn’t raise his voice or stiffen his naturally approachable demeanor. Instead, he warmly welcomes the small congregation of press as though he’s speaking to a group of longtime friends (who just so happen to be armed with tabletop recorders, paper and pen). He kindly thanks his attendees for lunching with him, briefly introduces his newest venture, and closes on
Ry Fyan Marshmallows, Oil Flowers, a Contact Lens: The Things in Front of the Eye, 2008 Oil, acrylic, correction fluid on panel 36 x 36 in.
The Renaissance Man Pierpaolo and Valeria Barzan
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Barry McGee Untitled (drawing bump), 2008 Mixed media dimensions variable 260 framed pieces - various sizes MCG 169 COURTESY DEITCH PROJECTS
this (adjective) note: “I think bold statements are better received in difficult economic times.” The 34-year-old entrepreneur’s primary work lies in running Altay Scientific, a leading producer and distributor of science teaching equipment. But, about a year ago he founded The Depart Foundation, a project he has, “been dreaming of for a while”. Depart, which stands for
Valerie Hegarty Rothko Sunset, 2007 Foamcore, canvas, paper, paint, glue, wire, tape, sand, gel medium 42X32X8 inches
“discussion, exhibition and production of art”, is a global art foundation poised to make waves around the world, crossing cultural boundaries and generational lines. Opening September 19, the foundation, in collaboration with Museo Del Rome, will open the highly anticipated exhibition titled New York Minute. The show features a tight-knit group of 60 emerging New York artists who have created a contemporary renaissance of sorts and whose explorative pieces run the gamut from street punk
excitement of Depart’s upcoming “debut”. Paolo, his small- framed wife
murals to sculptured abstractions. Expect to marvel over genius works
Valeria, and I move into another quiet corner of the restaurant, where
from Dan Colen, Jules de Balincourt, Aurel Schmidt, the late Dash Snow
we discuss everything from Barzan’s longtime penchant for collecting
and many more.
things to what’s next for his revolutionary ventures.
Coming from a background of marketing, Paolo’s burgeoning foun-
“The problem is we get too much involved in our passions!” That
dation might seem a bit out of left field. But in many ways, the two are
was Valeria’s lighthearted response, followed by laughter, on how the
connected. “Art is an important educational mission. It’s an important el-
couple got involved in the wine and art industries. “Six or seven years
ement for productivity, development, and for nurturing the next genera-
ago, we went to a friend’s with whom we went to galleries and since then
tion. Exactly the same thing with science teaching, it’s about educating
we were hooked,” explained Paolo. Now the entrepreneur, who also used
and nurturing the next generation.” Following the three-course meal and
to collect surfboards and then rocks, has amassed an impressive art col-
a few glasses of wine, press slowly file out the door, chattering about the
lection with a heavy interest in young American artists. He racks his
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brain for a few moments before recalling his latest purchase; “[it was] a Ryan McGinley Photograph!” Barzan’s roots clearly factor into his love for Rome. But of all the
Ester Partegas we the people (migraines), 2007 Inject ultrachrome archival 111x127 cm
states on the western part of the globe, why New York? “I’m in love with New York. I have been traveling extensively in the United States for a long time but I came to New York for the first time six years ago. I had a lot of misconceptions. ‘I’m more of a west coast person’ I thought. I came to New York by chance and now I love it. When I’m away for too long I miss New York like I miss a person. It’s a special thing. When we opened
And to further fuse together his worlds, Barzan’s 50-acre estate and
the foundation and talked about the first show, we said ‘lets showcase
vineyard, Poggio Golo, is currently undergoing renovations to include a
part of New York’”. By placing New York Minute in Rome, Barzan also
new winery, opening in December of 2010, an artist studio, and a per-
strives to reestablish artistic links between the two cities, a bond he feels
manent installation by French artist Daniel Buren. Sprawled across the
was very strong at one point, particularly in the 50’s. His hopes for the
hills of Montepulciano, the vineyard is also where Paolo’s blends are
exhibition to “plant some seeds” of reconnection are supported by the
produced, including the Tuscan red wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
exhibition’s young but seasoned curator Kathy Grayson. Grayson is also
It’s been said that “passion and purpose go hand in hand”. In jug-
the longtime gallery director of Deitch, and a core member of the New
gling an expansive winery, a science education company, and an art foun-
York contemporary art scene. Several performances, DJ sets and con-
dation, Barzan’s life is a true testament to turning one’s passions into
certs will accompany the excitement of September’s opening. You’ll “ex-
meaningful projects that can be heard worldwide. And when he’s not
perience a vibe” that Barzan calls simply “refreshing”.
consumed with changing the world, he enjoys building castles with his
Paolo, who emits a refreshingly easy-going vibe himself, seems to carry that demeanor throughout all that he does. Although he and Vale-
two young children. On juggling it all, he answers, “I enjoy all three activities. But of course, art is more lively than everything else”.
ria, who met in school 15 years ago, attend the infamous Art Basel and Artissima festivals, the collector admits, “I prefer to go to museums and galleries rather than art shows”. It’s not for a lack of love, but rather a distaste for the exclusivity and rigidness that often accompany larger productions. That’s one reason why the enthusiast is making sure that New York Minute is free of all hassle. The opening festivities and exhibition are “open to the public and free”. “No special VIP card or anything like that. We are never in the cool party! Something we like about the contemporary art world is that it is accessible,” he says.
Planned extension to Poggio Golo 106
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Barry McGee Untitled (drawing bump), 2008 Mixed media dimensions variable 260 framed pieces - various sizes MCG 169 COURTESY DEITCH PROJECTS
Barry McGee Untitled (drawing bump), 2008 Mixed media dimensions variable 260 framed pieces - various sizes MCG 169 COURTESY DEITCH PROJECTS
Tomoo Gokita Untitled, 2007 oil on canvas 116 X 114 cm
Tauba Auerbach Shatter III, 2009 Acrylic and glass on panel 40 x 32 inches 101.6 x 81.28 cm TAu 63 image: tom powel imaging Courtesy Deitch Projects
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Living it up The distinctive smell, touch and look of soft, buttery leather makes women all over the world weak at the knees. And if you’re looking for the best leather goods in the land, there’s only one place to head for, Italy. By Rebecca Goozee
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he leather industry in Italy is one of the most advanced and prominent, leaving no doubt that Italy is the capital of high quality, alluring and exquisite leather goods, which is why, much like the Colosseum in Rome, Michelangelo’s David in
Florence, the Leaning Tower in Pisa and St Mark’s Basilica in Venice, no trip to Italy is complete without looking at some of the country’s best designers and producers of leather goods.
Milan As the fashion capital of Italy, Milan is home to Prada, one of the most influential clothing designers in the fashion industry. The company started out in 1913 as a purveyor of leather goods, steamer trunks and handbags. And today, the fashion house is just as exclusive and offers a fantastic array of leather goods including bags, shoes luggage. Valigeria Franzi is another longstanding fashion house and has been making luxury bags, trunks, suitcases and wallets since it was founded in 1864, by Felice Franzi. In the wake of the prompt success of his unpretentious workshop Franzi decided to open a proper manufacturing plant, and along with the original travelling trunks and suitcases, production included all sorts of leather goods in an effort to meet the needs of increasingly demanding and sophisticated customers. Investing in tools and machinery, Franzi also did not hesitate to invest in advanced techniques and skilled labour. Indeed, leather goods experts came from Austria and France, contributing to the training of highlyspecialised craftsman who would play a leading role in the development of leather goods manufacturing skills in the 20th century. One of them was Guccio Gucci, who learned how to select and dye valuable skins and turn them into refined products. Opening his first shop in Milan on the Via Manzoni, quickly followed by stores in Rome, Genoa and Vienna, Franzi was the first to be conferred the title of ‘Cavaliere del Lavoro’, or a Knight of Labour. During this time Valigeria Franzi also received an extraordinary number of awards at some of the main international trade fairs thanks to the exquisite quality of its manufactured leather goods. Today, the Franzi showroom store, located on Corso Venezia, is featured around a large courtyard and offers a delicious look into leather luggage. Another unique and discerning label in Milan is Valextra, which was founded by Giovanni Fontana in Milan in 1937, and is an absolutely fantastic place to pick up some new luggage. The handmade bags, suitcases and trunks with their distinctive piping are absolutely stunning. Without exception, Valextra immerses all products in a cool white leather with black thread. The carefully selected material, hand worked leather and prized reputation make the label highly sought after.
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Previous page, brown laser cut leather bag, Sergio Rossi Long boot in leather with buckle detail, Salvatore Ferragamo
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Solid leather tops and calfskin body, Scuola del Cuoio
Franco Moschino, once Italian fashion’s ‘enfant terrible’ rose to fame in the 1980s and was celebrated for parodying the so-called ‘fashion victims’ who rushed out to buy his clothes. While Moschino, encouraged by Gianni Versace as a young Milan painter in the early 1980s, died in 1994, his label lives on and although it is not known for its leather goods, there are some fantastic staples to be found, including the large leather bag in sand. The Sant’Andrea flagship store in Milan is of curious design with each of the crystal chandeliers constructed from up to 50 aligned glass vials, while the stunning red column in the centre is fashioned from overlapping strands of red cotton to create a textured feature. The whimsical window displays change throughout the year. The effect of the interior decoration encourages the customer to stay longer, whilst also marvel at the exquisite fashions of Rossella Jardini, the creative head of the quirky fashion house. Also on Via Sant’Andrea are famous boutiques including Armani, Fendi and Trussardi. In fact, Trussardi is a fantastic place to purchase soft leather handbags and accessories, although the company’s story began in 1910 when Dante Trussardi, a master glove-maker, set up
Irina Green sandel, Canfora
a company creating finely made gloves, which were quickly and successfully seen all over the world. When Dante’s nephew took over the business in 1970 he decided to diversify the company’s experience in detailed work with leather in order to keep up with the evolving consumer market. And with the label more fully defined, Trussardi began to produce bags, suitcases and small leather goods, taking advantage of the developments in tannery to create a much softer and more supple leather. Today, the company have diversified into providing a more fully developed set of accessories including shoes, umbrellas, foulards and ties as well as a ready-to-wear collection.
Florence In Florence there are numerous high-end boutiques and designer shops on Via De’Tournabuoni, including Prada, Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo. Indeed the Ferragamo store has an understated, sophisticated atmosphere, highlighting the fine products and promising a memorable shopping experience. The ‘gloved arch’ shoes are a glorious
Large leather bag in black, Moschino
deep purple calf pump in prune python, perfect for the Autumn/Winter season, as are the long boots in a rich black leather with a woven detail on the back. And while Ferragamo died in 1960 at the age of 62 his name lives on through the now international company as well as his two most famous inventions, the ‘Cage Heel’ and the ‘Wedge Heel’. The Italian fashion house also provides a wide assortment of high quality bags, wallets and belts, which the designer family creates annually. Think Gucci and you instantly think glamorous fashion, although it’s unlikely that was what 23-year-old saddler Guccio Gucci was thinking when he founded a small workshop for horse saddles and other riding
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related equipment in 1904. However, the shop attracted international clientele in Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn in the 60s, playboys such as Gunter Sachs in the 70s and hit the headlines in the 80s and 90s for all the wrong reasons. That said, all this did nothing but aid the brand in becoming a legend. This season the iconic Florentine fashion house has produced some interesting products, including the latest key bag called ‘Icon Bit’ that was introduced on the Gucci Fall/Winter 2009 runway. The bag comes in a variety of materials including black, white and iridescent oil-spill leather. If you’re looking to pick out an exclusive handmade piece a definite must-visit is the Monastery of Santa Croce in Florence. Steeped in centuries-old history the monastery is located on the Via S. Giuseppe and together with the quality of the products and the commitment to personal customer service, the Scuola del Cuoio upholds the great traditions of Florentine quality craftsmanship. Francesca Gori, daughter of Marcello Gori one of the founding families of the Scuola, has created a line of hand-stitched one-of-a-kind handbags. Her collection is made from soft deerskin or exotic pelts such as crocodile, ostrich and python. Her designer bags often feature bright colour combinations with decorative closures, featuring bobbles of silver, gold, semiprecious stones and other rare materials such as fossils, quartz and amber all from antique jewellery.
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Ash Intrecciato VN briefcase, Bottega Veneta
Truffle Karung bag, Bottega Veneta
Lilac Intrecciato Nappa baby bag and large cabat, Bottega Veneta
The iconic Costa luggage, Valextra
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Gucci Icon bit bag in white leather
Capri and beyond
Antonio’s boutique lies off the beaten path but despite that he has been
sandals and with quaint boutiques on every corner and sandal-makers
serving well-heeled customers for almost half a century. It’s possible
crafting gorgeous custom creations you’ll soon find a perfect pair or two.
to choose from a ready-made pair, and believe me there are a huge
The boutique Canfora for example was founded in 1946 by Amedeo, who
variety or styles and colours, or have pair made to fit. And unlike Can-
created an amazing variety of sandals with hundreds of styles and in an
fora, L’Arte del Sandalo sandals are totally unique to the island as they
infinity of colours. Many famous customers have appreciated Canfora’s
cannot be ordered online.
creations, among these the unforgettable Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.
While Milan, Florence and Capri are home to some exclusive and
More than once late at night Amedeo would open the shop exclusively
luxury leather products, in the northwest of the country lies the town
for the first lady, letting her choose her favourite sandals, and he even
Vicenza in the Veneto region of Italy where it is possible to find the
made one just for her, called ‘K’. Today, Amedeo’s daughters, Angela
headquarters of Bottega Veneta. Founded in 1966, Bottega Veneta
and Rita, continue the tradition, adding a touch of originality to every
is best-known for its luxury leather goods including bags, belts and
annual collection. Other famous customers include Grace Kelly, Sofia
shoes that are hand-woven. The handbags typically boast clean lines,
Loren and Naomi Campbell.
the softest Intreciatto woven leathers and a classic palette. A timeless
If the bustle around Canfora, Capri Town’s premier sandal shop, gets too much another sought after cobbler is Antonio Viva who owns
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and runs L’Arte del Sandalo Caprese. In the serene area of Anacapri
The enchanting island of Capri is famous for its handmade leather
style has earned the company a loyal and discerning following for the supremely well-crafted soft and supple products.
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Legend of the
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s the saying goes, ‘diamonds are a girl’s best friend’, but if a woman lusts after diamonds then it’s love that she shares with pearls. According to Salvador J. Assael, founder, chairman and owner
of Assael International, the romance exists simply because pearls are, as he describes, “nature’s true gem.” Birthed from oysters, the nacreous substance claims an understated but regal presence that sets it apart from its sparkly, more contrived counterparts. Its rich history, intimate connection with earth’s oceanic roots, and longtime love affair with regal dams has made the iridescent gem a timeless and alluring luxury.
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Although the precious prize has been retrieved and harvested in waters around the world for over four thousand years, it wasn’t until around three decades ago that the world met and fell in love with the exotic black Tahitian pearl. Salvador J. Assael, who humbly describes himself as, “intelligent, passionate about [his] work and family,” is to thank for the brilliant introduction. Not your run of the mill merchant, Assael didn’t simply enter the jewellery business with a one-track vision for glitz and glamour. A rarity much like the treasures he cultivates, his genuine passion sprouts from his early days in Italy where he studied ancient history, archaeology, mineralogy and gemology. After extensive schooling in all things earthly, it makes complete sense that the jeweller landed in the pearl business. “I went into business because of my father. Gemology was my favorite subject and while working with my family, it helped me understand [things] outside the books and classroom. It made me appreciate the gems I dealt with and the knowledge I had prior,” says Assael. Dubbed ‘The king of pearls’, he earned his spot on the throne while working under the wing of his father James Assael. He remembers how it started in World War II, around the time Salvador’s father, who was previously a diamond dealer in Europe, began selling waterproof watches to American army men. “When the war ended, my father was left with thousands of Swiss watches,” he explains. “The Japanese needed watches but had no money, so my father exchanged watches for pearls from the Japanese. He taught me how to barter.” When asked how the idea of selling Tahitian natural colored culture pearls was born, Assael fondly recalls being on his yacht, cruising in Saint
“I went into business because of my father. Gemology was my favorite subject and while working with my family, it helped me understand [things] outside the books and classroom”
Tropez in 1973, when his good friend Jean- Claude Brouillet spoke with him about a far-flung atoll he purchased in French Polynesia. “Brouillet raved about the turquoise waters producing black lipped oysters and pearls,” said Assael. It was during those times that the businessman would fleet back and forth to his own island, solely accessible via private jet, in the Tuamotu Archipelago. “I began breeding black lipped oysters there. I [also] used it as a getaway years ago.” Within the first year, the crops that Assael had been nurturing and tending came out less than great, unfitting for his stringent standards of perfection. Undaunted, the entrepreneur recollects waiting for another year, “until [his] harvest produced better specimens. I took several Tahitian strands to my old friend Harry Winston who, a visionary himself, bought them all hoping to sell a few. He made magnificent jewellery out of the strands and put them in his fifth avenue window with an outrageous price tag.” After a short period of time and a good dose of well-calculated marketing, a black-pearl frenzy started in New York and spread across the states, clamoring to claim a piece of the jewel for themselves. Winston was pleas-
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100 Thousand Club
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Jeweler Salvador Assael Selecting Black Pearls from Robert Wan, the largest single producer and exporter of Tahitian Black Pearls
pearls with non-traditional elements such as denim, rubber and wood”. His pearly numbers have also been the go- to accessory down the
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antly surprised at the news that he had completely sold out of Assael’s
runway, from Balmain to Oscar de la Renta. “An old friend of mine
once marginalised pearls.
[Oscar de la Renta] commissioned €17 million worth of South Sea
On a business trip to Tahiti, Salvador remembers stumbling across
pearl jewelry for models to wear while showing his spring line,” Assael
what he describes as, “A 24mm huge button-shaped pearl that was very
says. So, how exactly does an inexhaustible jetsetter stop and relax for
impressive in size but unattractive in colour. As I was inspecting the
just a moment? “I adore chocolate and traveling to Europe, to Switzer-
pearl, I noticed some layers open in the back and decided to peel them.
land and to my homeland of Italy. They have the best chocolate loca-
The risk was either finding a smaller pearl or completely ruining the
tions; I also love reading biographies,” he exclaims with a glimmer.
pearl itself, but once peeled it came out that he had a magnificent 22mm
With a lifetime achievement award from Modern Jeweler under his
round pearl and sold it for €137 thousand, a hidden gem under the layer
belt, the Chevalier Dans L’ordre De Tahiti Nui award from the Tahit-
of an ugly duckling.”
ian Government, and the atrium at the Gemological Institute of Amer-
In his unwavering commitment to maintain Assael International’s im-
ican named after him, it’s clear that the pioneer has whipped up a
peccable taste, Salvador explains how in a potential collaboration he al-
delightful recipe for success. On mixing business with pleasure, he
ways looks for, “Integrity, good work ethic, loyalty, experience or initiative
adamantly declares, “If you’re making money doing something you
to learn new things.” After serving as Vice President of Sotheby’s jew-
love, it enhances one another.” Yet, he rejects the notion that he’s an
ellery department for 15 years, Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia joined Assael
inventor of any sort. “Someone always comes up with new ideas. There
International as Vice President Creative Director in 2003. His collabora-
was Thomas Alva Edison, and then Bill Gates.” However, the mild-
tive work with Prince Dimitri, amongst others, was an attempt to shake
mannered gent with an adventurous spirit doesn’t plan on slowing down
things up yet again in the rather traditional world of pearls. “Their fresher,
any time soon. “I am still a people person and always have been. I
newer look incorporated diamonds, moonstones and other gemstones to
have a young wife, young family and a dedicated staff that wants to
the look of classic pearls,” Assael explains. “Prince Dimitri combined
continue my legacy for many more generations to come!”
100 Thousand Club
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A
s the summer months begin to unfold, music DJs across the globe gear themselves up to leave the super-clubs of London, Paris and LA and head to the shores of the famous ‘White isle’. The summer music scene’s focal point has always, and still remains, to be the infamous bars, terraces and clubs of Ibiza, but this is not the only place to guarantee a night of electrified sounds and
bouncing crowds. The world’s greatest DJs are often found spinning tunes to the celebrity guests docking in their private yachts along the French Riviera, ready to party, as well as in the increasingly growing dance scene found in eastern Europe’s Croatia – the scene to be seen in right now. And, of course, New York being the techno hub, there is never a reason to leave the buzzing US city off the list, whatever the weather. Regardless of the economic crisis, the dedicated followers of hefty beats and minimal-tech sounds return year – on year to the shores and clubs that remain the circuit of some of the world’s best DJs. Home to the likes of Daft Punk, Cassius and the Gotan Project, France has become the epitome of electronica; Parisian label Ed Banger has in recent years had major global success with artists such as Justice, Mr Oizo and Vicarious Bliss. However, House music has long been enjoyed in the region, and it is the Cote d’Azur that Europe’s DJs find themselves in the summer months, entertaining the A-list stars partying at St Tropez and Cannes. Popularised by Bridgete Bardot and the like back in the 1960s, St Tropez is infamous not only for its bronzed glow on celebrity skin, but also for its wild parties aboard private yachts or within its glamorous clubs. Les Caves Du Roy is located within one of the world’s most extravagant hotels, Hotel Byblos, and entrance to the club is dependant on a bulging wallet, royal relations or a model’s looks. Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss are typical of those found here, sipping on the club’s signature Misoma cocktail and dancing to the bass-heavy House beats of resident DJ, and celebrity friend, Jack-E until the sun rises over the Mediterranean. To find guest appearances and more specific DJ listings, VIP Room is the place to hear sets from European DJs such as Joachim Garraud, Axwell and DOUBLE A, and Bob Sinclair is a regular here. The most exclusive of St Tropez’s visitors enjoy the season’s best parties, hosted by Jean-Roch – during the recent summer months Paris Hilton, Karl Lagerfeld and Lady Gaga have been spotted here, as well as at St Tropez’s chic beach club, Club 55. Continuing to entertain to a backdrop of glitz and glamour, the circuit continues along the coast to Hollywood’s home-from home, Cannes. The International Film Festival remains the perfect excuse to party on the French isle during May, and the same is true for the sweltering summer months. La Palais is Cannes most happening club, and is the newest and hottest electronic club to hit the French Riviera in a long while. Open from late-June to August, the club’s central dancefloor circulates an elevated DJ booth and hosts some of the best names in deep house. Erick Morillo, Deep Dish and Angello and Ingrosso play the hottest House tunes of the summer, providing the bassy sound for the club’s weekly electronic theme nights, such as Thursday’s erotica vibe.
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However, it is the White Isle that is most notorious for sun, sand and sunset to sunrise partying to the beats of the world’s greatest DJs playing the fast evolving sounds of electronica. Music lovers began flocking to the small Balearic Island of Ibiza in the late 1960s, hippies crossed its shores bringing with them new styles of music, and the infamous Pacha club was opened in 1973. Since then, the music has rapidly involved into multiple genres and it was during the 1990s that the scene exploded with the opening of clubs such as Cream, Space, Privilege and Eden and European DJs such as Tiesto, Paul Van Dyk, John Digweed and Markus Schulz, to name only a few, are those holding residencies in the island’s clubs. The list of clubs to be found on the island’s two party scenes, San Antonio or Ibiza Town, is endless, with each club hosting its exclusive and highly sought VIP areas. Pacha being the first to open, has hosted some of the most legendary names in dance music, from Frankie Knuckles
Celebrities at the VIP Room: (top) Sting and Cindy Crawford; (centre) Lenny Kravitz and Jean-Roch owwner of the VIP Room; (bottom) Jean-Roche and Avril Lavigne (right) and friend
to Roger Sanchez; each month the club hosts its ‘Originial Flower Power’ party, reverting back to its earlier days. Space is an after-hours venue and is most famous for its 22-hour party, which runs from Sunday to Monday morning. One of the island’s original clubs, Amnesia is the host of some of Ibiza’s most notorious foam parties; techno legend Sven Vath hosts his night, Cocoon, at the club. Privilege is a club with a difference with its indoor swimming pool and 15 thousand capacity, making it the largest club in Europe. Manumission is the night to find Ibiza’s most weird and wonderful faces, and Fat Boy Slim has been known to play the toilets. Providing a more chilled atmosphere in which to soak up the Belearic sun and a favourite hangout of the men behind the decks is KM5, a luxurious restaurant with Arabic-style décor and a delectable menu, its signature dishes, Solomio steak, receives much praise. The perfect setting in which to escape the hectic pace found on the seafront, KM5 hosts fashion events and benefit evenings, as well as a number of culturally themed nights.
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(Left) Entertainment at the Eden Club, Ibizia; (above) The VIP Room, Saint Tropez
Croatia is fast becoming the Ibiza alternative of East-
After eight years of DJing at Pacha, co-owner of the club Nicolas Matar saw the
ern Europe, the exclusivity and novelty of the Spanish
potential in New York’s most fashionable neighborhood, The Meatpacking District, and
island fading from its original conception in the 1960s,
opened Cielo Club. An attempt to match the buzz long established in the area, as well
and Hvar and Pag Islands are the hotspots for summer
as bringing the Ibizan vibe to Manhattan, the mega-club hosts some of the best, and
nightlife. Known for its beach parties, Zre beach near
most-loved, European DJs; infamous techno legend and Francois K has a resident slot
Novalja on the island of Pag is the most popular, although
at Cielo Club on Wednesdays. The lack of VIP room is intentional – the entire club is
clubs are beginning to spring up across the islands to
intended to be a privileged experience.
replicate the Ibizan scene. Papya club situated on the
Another of European DJs favourite clubs within the Meat Packing District is Kiss
beach has already this summer hosted names such as
& Fly. The name originates from a passenger drop-off airport in the South of France,
Paul Van Dyk, Eric Prydz and Armin Van Buuren, and
and is one of the many reasons why this club has a hugely European feel. The décor
club Byblos in Porec has played home to the sounds of
is distressed-Roman-bathhouse and the VIP area, named ‘The Temple’, is a tent-like
Paul Oakenfold and David Guetta.
structure to impress; the DJs are European, with Stan Courtois and Philippe Paris often
Yet whilst the rich and beautiful have been dancing
found on the decks.
on the shores of the Cote d’Azur and watching the sun set
As the days begin to get shorter and September beckons, the circuit loops back to
across San Antonio, a new scene has been exploding in
Ibiza to hit the closing parties that end the summer’s frivolities for another year. The last
the US, making Detroit and New York permanent loca-
fortnight in September and the first week of October are the dates to expect mayhem on
tions on the DJ summer circuit. European dance music
the White Isle. One of the most popular times for tourists, dance music lovers return to
owes much to the influence of the States; the emergence
the island to enjoy a last summer send-off. The confirmation of dates and DJs are long
of Techno in Michigan during the mid to late 1980s
anticipated. Sets from its residents Paul Van Dyk, Eddie Halliwell and Sasha can be
transported a new type of sound from producers such
found in Cream on 24th September, Pacha closes with Sander Kleinenberg on the decks
as Derrick May and Juan Atkins, and in its exportation
and Amenesia closing party finished as late as 3rd October. The European DJs return
across the water, a number of New York producers caught
to the super-clubs of London, Paris and LA, to entertain the world’s dance music lovers
onto the sound.
through the cold winter months before beginning all over again next summer.
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TOP 10 (ART AUCTIONS) FINAL2:27APR
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As the selling season for 2009 draws to a close, we took a look back to see what the auction houses went through in this tumultuous year. The Yves Saint Laurent sale was a hotly-anticipated event that lived up to the hype, but otherwise buyers seemed to retreat to the tried-and-true Old Masters, moving around major works that have been proven to hold their value over time, and staying out of the younger and more volatile contemporary market. Art as investment is a tricky thing, but you can’t put a price on becoming the caretaker for a piece of history.
Page 124
CHRISTIE’S NEW YORK: Post War and Con-
dern sale, with the sale of Mousquetaire a la
temporary Art Evening Sale, €64.5 million
pipe topping the auction at a price of almost
The first contemporary art auction on our list
€10.3 million. This, along with another Van
featured five paintings by Andy Warhol, all of
Gogh-inspired work, Femme au chapeau, the
which went for over €687,000. The most ex-
second highest grossing painting from the lot at
pensive, The Last Supper (Camel/57), which
almost €5.4 million, reflects to a degree the
sold for €2.7 million, is one of Warhol’s most
continued interest in appreciating how the great
significant pieces, and the meaning of the pain-
masters interacted in their lives and works.
ting’s juxtaposition of Da Vinci’s historical Last Supper with a cigarette brand has been debated
CHRISTIE’S PARIS: Collection Yves Saint
for decades. Warhol’s Brigitte Bardot, the epo-
Laurent et Pierre Berge; €343.5 million
nymous portrait, was also a highlight of the auc-
When Yves Saint Laurent wasn’t working at the
tion, selling for almost €2 million.
forefront of fashion, he was accumulating a major art collection, with a truly diverse flavour.
CHRISTIE’S NEW YORK: Impressionist/
The auction of his collection by Christie’s was
Modern Art Evening Sale, €70.7 million
the biggest of all time, and includes many no-
Picassos dominate the most notable works from
table pieces, including Henri Matisse’s Les
the second highest grossing impressionist/mo-
coucous, tapis bleu et rose, and numerous
A
rt
TOP 10 (ART AUCTIONS) FINAL2:27APR
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Page 125
sculptural and furniture pieces, including Ei-
was the highest grossing of the three,
leen Gray’s Fauteuil Aux Dragons, a magnifi-
fetching almost US$6.5 million and for
cent armchair made of the finest materials,
good reason; the painting is a master-
which sold for almost €20.6 million.
ful example of Miro’s ‘slow’ composition techniques, and exceeded the
CHRISTIE’S LONDON: Impressionist/ Modern Art Evening
price estimate by over €1.4 million upon sale.
Sale, €86 million The largest of the impressionist
SOTHEBY’S LONDON: Impre-
sales this year, the most expensive
ssionist and Modern Art Evening
item was Claude Monet’s Dans la
Sale, €46 million
prairie, which was an artistic
The highlight of this impressio-
highlight of Monet’s time spent
nist/modern auction was the sale of
at Argenteuil, selling for US$16
three pieces by Alberto Giacometti,
million. Also of particular note
all for over €1.7 million. The most ex-
was the sale of several pieces by Kees
pensive piece by Giacometti, the
van Dongen, including La cuirasse d’or,
Buste de Diego (Amenophis), sold for
Femme aux deux colliers and La
almost €4.8 million. While it may
femme au collant vert, all selling
have fetched the highest price, the
for over €1 million each. The
Diego (Tete au Col Roule) is perhaps
pieces were all portraits, Don-
the most interesting piece of his from
gen’s forte, and together represent
this sale, given the uniqueness of the
some of the best of his work.
painted head, visually representing the essence of Giacomotti’s philosophy, as he
works, and the story of The Temple of Jupiter is a
CHRISTIE’S LONDON: Impressionist/ Mo-
said, “There is no difference between painting
true art-world myth; besides brief exposure in an
dern Art Evening Sale, €50.1 million
and sculpture”.
exhibition in 1853, the painting was almost forgotten from 1816 through to 1982, before reemerging
While painters from Picasso to Jawlensky were represented at this sale, some of the lots that
SOTHEBY’S LONDON: Impressionist
drew the most attention were a collection of
and Modern Art Evening Sale, €44 million
works by Jean Miro. Paintings included Mont-
A perennial favourite with collectors, museums
SOTHEBY’S NEW YORK: Impressionist
roig, le point, Peinture (Femme se poudrant)
and art lovers all over the world, Petite Danseuse
and Modern Art Evening Sale,
and Peinture. Peinture (Femme se poudrant)
de Quatorze Ans, by Edgar Degas, was sold for
€42 million
approximately €17.8 million. Besides this intri-
While this Sotheby’s impressionist
cacy of the famous fabric tutu, the Petite Dan-
sale was not dominated by any ar-
seuse is the only Degas sculpture that was
tist in particular, special attention must
exhibited to the public while Degas was alive. In
be paid to the works of Tamara de
addition to Degas’s sculpture, this auction also
Lempicka, four of which were
featured three portraits by Egon Schiele, each
sold here. Three portraits of
considered to be from the pinnacle of his career.
Lempicka’s were sold as well as
into the spotlight.
one still life, with two portraits SOTHEBY’S NEW YORK: Important Old
fetching over €2.7 million. The
Master Paintings, Including European
Portrait de Marjorie Ferry was
Works of Art, €43.2 million
Lempicka’s highest grossing item,
The most notable sales during Sotheby’s Important
selling for almost €3.4 mil-
Old Master Paintings auction include that of Hen-
lion, and appropriately so;
drick Ter Brugghen’s Bagpipe Player in Profile for
experts agree that the port-
€6.8 million as well as Joseph Mallord William
rait is a textbook example
Turner’s The Temple of Jupiter Panellenius for €8.9
of what defines Lempic-
million. Both paintings are phenomenal classical
ka’s style.
© The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/DACS, London 2009 (opposite) © Succession Picasso/DACS 2009 (above)
POPPY DE VILLENEUVE
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D
aughter of Sixties icons Justin and Jan de Villeneuve, Poppy de Villeneuve has gone from working in front of the camera to behind it. The talented young photographer (both herself and her work) has appeared in everything from Vogue and Dazed & Confused to campaigns for Jimmy Choo, Nike, and Stella McCartney,
and her latest short film, You Are Everywhere, for the New York Times’ T Magazine is currently playing on their website, www.nytimes.com/video. She exhibits her work all over the world; you can follow her upcoming moves at www.poppydevilleneuve.com. Where do you call home?
Bags or shoes?
PV. Downtown Manhattan, New York
PV. Shoes
Where did you go to school?
Where do you go to get away from it
PV. A local school in West Sussex, Ditcham
all?
Park, then a boarding school in Hampshire
PV. I get in a car and drive to the south, usu-
called Bedales.
ally Louisiana, I explore with no firm destination, or my mother’s house in Kent, England.
What do you do? PV. Photographer/filmmaker
Blackberry or Iphone? PV. I have a blackberry, but now would love
Who have you always looked up to?
an Iphone, they are amazing…
PV. David Lynch, Richard Avedon, J.D. Salinger
What is your dream automobile? PV. 1965 black or grey Mercedes-Benz
What rule or motto do you live by?
220SE Coupe and an Airstream for my trav-
PV. There are no rules, have people in your
els…one can but dream
life that will tell you things as they really are and be true to yourself.
New York, London, Paris, or Milan? PV. Can’t I have them all?
Which charities do you hold most dear to your heart?
If you had to choose, whose clothing
PV. The Michael J. Fox charity for Parkin-
would you wear everyday?
son’s www.michaeljfox.org.
PV. A collection of vintage, old American
Prison reform, www.prisonreform.org
work-wear and classic Chanel with Filson luggage.
Where is your favorite dining spot? PV. Keens steakhouse in midtown, NY. J.
Where are you traveling next?
Sheekey’s in London. Anywhere in Sicily.
PV. Upstate, just near Woodstock.
100 Thousand Club
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Is €1,545 too much for a bottle of tequila? The master distillers at Jose Cuervo don’t think so – at least not for this very special blend, the 250 Aniversario, a special limited edition of super-premium Extra Añejo. The extra-aging process blends tequilas ranging in age from three to 100 years old, from the Jose Cuervo family cellars, which are then aged in toasted new American Oak barrels for a minimum of three years, and finished for 10 months in sherry casks. So what does tequila taste like at over a hundred dollars a shot? We tasted from the first bottle ever opened, one of 495 worldwide, and it was a revelation: peppery, fruity, earthy, and sweet, with vanilla and caramel notes that reveal themselves slowly, buzzing on the tongue and warming the throat. Tequila, in other words, to be sipped and savored and shared with (very close) friends.
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ASTON MARTIN AD:10jan
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