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Womenswear inspiration Concept and direction: HILARY SCARLETT & LESLEY HURST
New archetypes The new generation of designers are observing long established systems and methodologies that are slowly disintegrating in the face of major shifts in ethical, political, technological and economic structures. We see this as an opportunity to rewrite the rules, tell personal stories and turn the spotlight on the things that matter. We are particularly struck both by the depth of investigations as well as new malleable thinking and flexible working processes. We find meaning in nature, a sense of place and personal identity, cherishing traditions, taking wisdom from the past but marrying that understanding with a spirit of freethinking, creating astonishingly new outcomes. We note a response to consumer shifts, away from excess towards more responsible shopping, by the creation of products with more meaning, valuing the handmade, the original and those things with emotion stitched into them.
Environment concerns prompt debate and there are ongoing investigations into new materials, processes and waste reduction to bring about better solutions. Beauty is found in discarded things, harnessing waste and remodelling it into extraordinary new products. We see deep curiosity around material behaviour, testing things through experimental and often laborious processes and using the unplanned outcomes to inform the unique and often one off creations. Indeed, there is a marked shift towards favouring the unexpected and prizing imperfections over formal planning and flawless duplication. Examining the relationships we have with our own bodies and each other provokes a response to questions of identity by embracing difference and fearlessly pushing boundaries in daring expressive ways. This new flexibility and fluidity of thinking is taking the design world into unchartered territories.
Rijksmuseum “Our art belongs to the world” Silk Kimono with print of The Threatened Swan by Jan Asselijn, c. 1650 by design studio Norwegian Wood. This is used to promote 2017 International Rijksstudio Award, where the Rijksmuseum invites members of the public to draw inspiration from the museum’s collection using them to create their own artwork. The winner this year is Masterpieces Never Sleep by Lesha Limonov: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl Photo: with thanks to the Rijksmuseum Press Office
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Remastered Creators from a variety of disciplines are engrossed in storytelling, delving into rich histories and bringing them forward into the digital age. The finest of sartorial references and the richest of ancient techniques are grasped and re-worked into astonishing new expressions. Artists, Rob and Nick Carter, are at the vanguard of a movement embracing old and new in their moving digital re-creations of old masters. Textile and fashion designers are reviving old skills, exploring cultural differences and diverse wardrobes, creating modern narratives that align with current ideas about identity and personal empowerment; they present a transgressive slant to tradition and heritage. ‘Curated’, an exhibition at Chatsworth House, is sponsored by Gucci ‘The exhibition mines seams of unexpected synergy between the dressing-up box treasures of Chatsworth and the contemporary aesthetic of Gucci.’
1. VELVET ‘SHIBORI’ INSPIRED TEXTILE BY EDINBURGH COLLEGE OF ART GRADUATE LUCY HOWE: WWW.LUCYHOWEDESIGN.COM 2. TRANSFORMED DUTCH MASTER BY ARTISTS ROB & NICK CARTER: HTTP://WWW.ROBANDNICK.COM 3. ILLUSTRATIVE TEXTILE BY CSM TEXTILE GRADUATE AMY BARRIE: AMY.BARRIE@ GMAIL.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY SARAH MIKAELA 4, 7. FASHION GRADUATE FROM CSM ZIPENGLI: ZZIPENGLI@GMAIL.COM 5. COLLAGE TEXTILE PRINT BY EDINBURGH COLLEGE OF ART GRADUATE ROBERTA FOX: WWW.ROBERTAFOX.CO.UK 6. PHOTOGRAPH BY CSM MA FASHION GRADUATE EVAN PHILLIPS: HTTPS://WWW.LINKEDIN.COM/IN/EVAN-PHILLIPS 8. SHOES BY ANTONIO MARRAS AW 2017 COLLECTION 9. PHOTOMONTAGE BY SUZANNE MOXHAY: WWW. SUZANNEMOXHAY.COM 10. GUCCI DRESS FROM EXHIBITION ‘HOUSE STYLE: FIVE CENTURIES OF FASHION AT CHATSWORTH’: HTTPS://WWW.CHATSWORTH.ORG 11. FROM AW 2010 COLLECTION, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 12. BY CSM FASHION GRADUATE ELENA KOIVUNEN: ELENA_KOIVUNEN@LIVE.COM
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Colour immersion in a design aesthetic that focuses on balance and has the courage to make radical edits. New and exciting combinations are created by layering, concealing, reversing, taking away and adding. Materials are challenged and adapted to have multi-functional outcomes in both clothing and products: double faced, spongy, embossed or quilted surfaces, high density weaves and multidimensional pile effects, designed to be easy to cut and form into unorthodox sculptured shapes. CSM Fashion print graduate Hana Fujimoto describes her process as having an ‘absence of narrative, following intuition over formal planning in the creation of large scale print body pieces. A way of working that facilitates a gestural freedom, resulting in work that favoured the unexpected.’ There is a bold confidence in ideas that complement one another in a lively interaction between shape, colour and texture.
1. KNITS BY RCA KNITWEAR GRADUATE CATRIONA PRINGLE:CATRIONA.PRINGLE@NETWORK.RCA.AC.UK 2. LOUNGE CHAIR BY HERMAN MILLER : HTTP://WWW. HERMANMILLER.COM 3. COAT BY UNIVERSITY OF BRIGHTON GRADUATE ALICIA PLAZA NIETO: ALICIAPNIETO@GMAIL.COM PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS SCHULENBERG 4. PHOTOGRAPH BY HILARYSCARLETT 5, 11. PRINTED GARMENTS BY CSM TEXTILE GRADUATE HANA FUJIMOTO: HANAFUJIMOTO@HOTMAIL.CO.UK 6. STACKED SHAPES BY CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ARTS GRADUATE INDIA COPLEY: WWW.INDIACOPLEY.COM 7. COAT BY ACNE STUDIOS 8. 3D TEXTILES BY CSM TEXTILE GRADUATE NATASHA YVETTE TALLON: NATASHATALLON@GMAIL.COM 9. PHOTOGRAPH BY GLEN LUCHFORD FOR SELF SERVICE MAGAZINE : HTTP://GLENLUCHFORD.COM 10. DIMENSIONAL FABRICS BY CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ARTS GRADUATE GENEVIEVE GIBSON: GENNIEGIBSON@HOTMAIL.CO.UK 12. FLEXIBLE SCREENS BY BRIGITTA NEMETH: HTTP://BRIGITTANEMETH.COM 13. TUBE KNIT BY CSM MA KNITWEAR GRADUATE LAURA NEWTON: HTTP://WWW.LAURANEWTON.UK
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Relic Textiles, fashion and artefacts deeply connected to the resources of the earth. Primitive surfaces are explored: rough, tough, hard, stony, gritty, hairy, fibrous and resilient. Bleak and open landscapes and the collection of natural material held within them are an inspiration for many of the artists featured. Textile designer Lucy Day speaks of her work as ‘made up of individual 'fragments' of expansive, seemingly empty and awe inspiring environments’, while jeweller Kate Dewdney casts twigs, lichen and berries into her primitive pieces. An organic process is central allowing designs to emerge from hand techniques such as daubing, dying, unpicking and distressing. Environmental concerns for the earth and indeed beyond, into space are debated and researched. CSM Materials Futures graduate, Inge Sluijs, looks at the potential for usage of plasma extracted from landfill sites, highlighting the devastating effects that ignoring landfill waste could have, whilst CSM Materials Futures graduate, Margaux Hendriksen, questions the ethical and moral implications of space mining.
1. CLAY SCULPTURE BY ARTIST SOPHIE FAVRE: HTTP://WWW. SOPHIEFAVRE.COM 2, 10. SCREEN PRINTED TEXTILES BY HERIOT-WATT UNIVERSITY GRADUATE HAYLEY MCCRIRRICK : WWW.SABLEANDSOUL.COM HAYLEY.MCCRIRRICK@OUTLOOK. COM 3. COAT BY RCA MENSWEAR GRADUATE ELLIE ROUSEAU. ELEANOR.ROUSEAU@RCA.AC.UK. PHOTO BY GRAY BRAME 4. PRINTED TEXTILE BY RCA TEXTILE GRADUATE LUCY DAY: WWW.LUCY-DAY.CO.UK 5. RING BY JEWELLERY DESIGNER KATE DEWDNEY: WWW.KATEDEWDNEY.CO.UK 6. ‘AGING PIECE’ BY JAPANESE CERAMIC ARTIST KAZUNORI OHNAKA :HTTPS://WWW. KAZUNORIOHNAKA.COM 7. FRINGED TEXTILE BY CSM TEXTILE GRADUATE SU-RYEON KIM: S01074279001@GMAIL.COM 8. PLASMA ROCK VESSEL BY CSM MA MATERIAL FUTURES GRADUATE INGE SLUIJS: INGE.SLUIJS@HOTMAIL.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY TOM MANNION 9. BAMBOO INSTALLATION IN GOTHENBURG BY ARTIST TETSUNORI KAWANA: HTTP:// WWW.KAWANAPASSAGE.COM 11. ‘SCRAMBLE FOR THE MOON’ PROJECT BY CSM MA MATERIAL FUTURES GRADUATE MARGAUX HENDRIKSEN: M.HENDRIKSEN@HOTMAIL.FR. PHOTOGRAPH BY TOM MANNION 12. FRINGED DENIM PIECES FROM CECI BY CECILIA CHANG: HTTPS://WWW.CECIOFFICIAL.COM
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Hallucinatory Moving between the illusory and the tangible, this look is maximalism at its most hypnotic, taking delight in chaotic opulence, psychedelia and all manner of optical trickery. 4
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Fetishism is played with, as seen in the work of bespoke footwear designer and RCA fashion graduate, Kira Goody, whose shoes ‘embody a form of combative sexuality that is alluring, intimidating and often humorous’. This is achieved by a combination of factors, such as the overall height, subverting gender along with nods to body armour, predators, bondage and visual puns. We see a celebration of the new freedoms offered with the casting aside of gender norms; RCA fashion students produced exhilaratingly theatrical dresses in the Grayson Perry project, modelled by the artist himself. Magpie like collections of random objects, patterns and materials come together in clashing abundance. RCA fashion graduate Rose Danford-Phillips takes her fascination with nature into a new hedonistic realm. ‘My clothes are in a state of rewilding - I infect the silhouettes with rich colourful textiles, giving them life.’
1. RCA FASHION GRADUATE HAN KIM: HAN.KIM.@NETWORK. RCA.AC.UK 2. PHOTOGRAPH BY AXL JANSEN FOR NOVEMBRE MAGAZINE: HTTP://WWW.AXLJANSEN.COM 3. GUCCI FROM THE CAMPAIGN PRE-FALL 2017 4. INSTALLATION BY RCA FASHION GRADUATE ABBIE STIRRUP: ABBIE.STIRRUP@NETWORK.RCA. AC.UK 5. ILLUSTRATIONS FOR GRAYSON PERRY PROJECT BY RCA FASHION GRADUATE LINQIUQIAN: LINQIUQIAN@GMAIL.COM 6. RCA FASHION/FOOTWEAR GRADUATE KIRA GOODEY: KIRA. GOODEY@NETWORK.RCA.AC.UK 7. RCA TEXTILES GRADUATE BECKY JONES: BECKYSAJONES@GMAIL.COM 8, 11. RCA FASHION GRADUATE ROSE DANFORD-PHILLIPS: ROSE. DANFORDPHILLIPS@NETWORK.RCA.AC.UK 9. RCA FASHION GRADUATE COLIN HORGAN: COLIN.HORGAN@NETWORK.RCA. AC.UK 10. SEQUIN DRESS BY GARETH PUGH 12. TEXTILE BY LEEDS COLLEGE OF ART GRADUATE MADDIE WHALLEY: HTTP://MKWHALLEY.WIXSITE.COM/ MADELEINEKATEDESIGN
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Kinship Designers are preoccupied with a sense of place, absorbing the atmosphere of natural landscapes and the wisdom and personal stories written within them. From the wilds of remote Scottish islands to the mountains of Nagano, it is the place that informs the work, allowing a slow and quiet focus on purpose, materials and process. Heritage and ritual are significant aspects, but don’t expect a traditional replica: these are new thinkers forming extraordinarily original things. Teranobo Fujimori’s ‘too high tree house’ is perched precariously on top of two tree trunks, 20 feet in the air. When asked “Why two?”, he responded, "One leg is dangerous and three legs are too stable and boring." Sustainability issues are central inspiring the ‘offcut’ collection of Gray’s School of Art Graduate, Andrea Gordon, whilst the protection of remote communities motivates work such as the publication ‘Teran’ by HerriotWatt graduate, Alannah Cooper, where she draws attention to the creative opportunities in Orkney in an endeavour to reduce rural migration in young people.
1. KNITS BY GRAY'S SCHOOL OF ART GRADUATE ANDREA GORDON: A_GORDON15@OUTLOOK.COM 2. WOVEN TEXTILE BY CSM TEXTILES GRADUATE REBEKAH HENDRICKSE: REBEKAH. HENDRICKSE@HOTMAIL.COM 3,12. COLLECTION ‘FERVENT ABSURDITY’ BY UNIVERSITY OF BRIGHTON GRADUATE SAM SNOW: S.SNOW2@UNI.BRIGHTON.AC.UK 4. INTERIORS TEXTILE DESIGNS BY REBECCA MARY ANN JONES, GRADUATE OF NOTTINGHAM TRENT UNIVERSITY: HTTP://WWW. REBECCAMARYANNJONES.COM 5, 7. EXTRACTS FROM PUBLICATION ‘TERAN’ BY HERIOT WATT UNIVERSITY, FASHION COMMUNICATION GRADUATE ALANNAH COOPER: INFO@ ALANNAHEILEEN.COM 6. WOVEN TEXTILES BY CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ARTS GRADUATE HANNAH ROBINSON: HANNAHLROBINSON@LIVE.CO.UK 8. JACQUARDS BY KATIE JENNER, GRADUATE OF NOTTINGHAM TRENT UNIVERSITY: WWW.KATIEJENNERTEXTILES.COM 9. KNITS BY CSM TEXTILES GRADUATE KIM CHEUNG: CYKIMCHEUNG@GMAIL.COM 10. KNITTED TEXTILES BY CSM TEXTILE GRADUATE MARNIE J. GOOCH: MARNIEJGOOCH@HOTMAIL.COM 11. TEA HOUSE BY JAPANESE ARCHITECT TERUNOBU FUJINORI 13. PRINTED TEXTILE BY CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ARTS GRADUATE ROSEMARY KING: WWW.ROSEMARYPRINTS.COM
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The most materially advanced and investigational of all the stories, designers are questioning conventional processes, turning methodology on its head and harnessing waste products to create radical new products. Through unorthodox treatments and manipulation of core components, new composites are made using resins, elastomers, minerals, monofilaments, metal threads and even waste varnishes from motor engine manufacturing. Fluidity and movement is a common aesthetic throughout, where form is created by allowing the material to meander and organically take shape. RCA fashion graduate Louis Alderson-Bythell exploits the agency of the water catalytic resin, letting it dry and contract thus allowing structures to form by themselves. Shine and transparency add further intriguing dimension when layered, tessellated, sliced and folded as seen in the pearlescent 3D structural forms by Glasgow School of Art graduate Tilly Davidson and the sensual sculptural pieces by RCA textile designer Yan Ma.
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1. PORCELAIN AND PEWTER VESSEL BY BRYONY APPLEGATE: HTTP://WWW.BRYONYAPPLEGATEDESIGN.COM 2, 11. 3D TEXTILE BY GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART GRADUATE MATILDA DAVISON: TILLYDAVISON@HOTMAIL.COM 3. COLLECTION 2016, CSM GRADUATE BENJAMIN WATERS: WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/BENJAMIN.WATERS 4, 9. RCA FASHION GRADUATE MISORA NAKAMORI: MISORA.NAKAMORI@NETWORK. RCA.AC.UK 5. CALVIN KLEIN AW 2017 6. RESIN MATERIAL BY RCA FASHION GRADUATE LOUIS ALDERSON-BYTHELL: L.ALDERSON-BYTHELL@NETWORK.RCA.AC.UK. PHOTOGRAPH BY BEN RENSHAW 7, 12. SCULPTURE PIECES BY RCA TEXTILE GRADUATE YAN MA: YAN.MA@NETWORK.RCA.AC.UK. 8. MATERIAL HARVESTED FROM ENGINE OIL WASTE BY INITIATIVE, PUNãH, BY INDIAN MANUFACTURING CONGLOMERATE GODREJ & BOYCE: HTTP://WWW.PUNAHPROJECT.COM/ 10. RCA KNITTED TEXTILE GRADUATE OLIVIA QI: OLIVIAQISTUDIO@HOTMAIL.COM