WORLD SAILING ADVENTURES
BLUE WATER
SAILING CHARTERING AROUND THE WORLD LAW & ORDER SAN BLAS STYLE
TREKKING
MICRONESIA LEOPARD 50 LUXURY AFLOAT
AUGUST 2018
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AUGUST 2018
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10 10 World Sailing Adventures
26 World Cruising
Chartering around the world by George Day
In the San Blas Islands, a group of cruisers encounter law and order Kuna Yala-style by Patrick Childress
Blue Water Sailing’s Annual Guide
Antonio’s Forbidden Coconut
30 Cruising Life
Trekking in the “Jewel of Micronesia” Long term and off-the-milk-run cruisers, discover the natural wonders and history on an enchanting Micronesian island by Patricia Gillette, PhD
22 22 Living Aboard
36
A Hard Night in the Caribbean
Engine trouble forced them to moor under sail...in the dark and 20 knots of wind by Joanna Hutchinson
36 Blue Water Boats
Leopard 50: Luxury Afloat
DEPARTMENTS 6 Captain’s Log 8 Blue Water Dispatches 39 Chandlery 4
41 Brokerage 44 Classifieds
The new Leopard 50 is destined to be one of the most popular mid-size family cruisers in the multihull market by George Day Cover photo: Headed back from shore, St. Martin Photo: iStockphoto
BLUE WATER SAILING • August 2018
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Fast Track to Cruising Course
“Life was getting a little drab, and this was the perfect way to put some color and sparkle back in. Being in some of the most spectacular scenery on earth, while learning a skill was rewarding on many levels.” — Paul Sheldon, Whitecourt, Canada
OffshoreSailing.com | 888-385-6177 Learn To Sail | Cruising Vacations | Family Sail | Women-Only Courses | Racing Clinics | Passage Making | Team Building BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS: Scrub Island, Tortola • FLORIDA: Captiva Island, Fort Myers Beach, St. Petersburg, Cape Coral
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BLUE WATER
Caribbean Reboot
I
t is just a year since the Caribbean was hit by devastating hurricanes that seriously damaged Barbuda, St. Martin, Anguilla, the BVI and USVI and Puerto Rico. It may seem a long time ago, if you have not been watching the news of recovery coming out of these islands. But, for the locals who had their homes, communities and businesses shattered, the slow recovery must seem like an eternity. There’s no sugar coating it, these islands are still a long way from being back to normal. In Barbuda and Anguilla, very little has been done to make the islands habitable for the locals who had to be evacuated. Many lost everything and are starting anew in Antigua and St. Martin. St. Martin, with the backing of the French and Dutch governments and large resort owners, is starting to get back on its feet but only just starting. The Moorings, Dream Yacht Charter, Sunsail and others are up and running and open for charters. And while St. Martin offers plenty to do, the island of St. Barths is probably the best bet for chartering civilization this winter. The BVI has seen a massive effort by the big charter companies to get their fleets back in working order. Most of the well-known bases are open or will be opening for the 2018-2019 season and there are plenty of new boats in the fleets since close to 50-percent of the inventory was lost to the hurricanes. The sailing in Sir Francis Drake Channel and out to Anagada is the same, the beaches are the same and many of the beach bars are open for business. You can still hear Foxy sing or have a rum at the Soggy Dollar. But, a lot of the infrastructure ashore, homes, roads, the electrical and phone grids, the hospitals and schools is still in the process of being rebuilt. The USVI is slowly putting itself back together and slowly is the operative word. The U.S. island territory is broke and many businesses there are yet to reopen on a regular basis. When cruise ships visit, as they do, shops will open for a while and then shut again. Resorts are still slow to open their doors. You can still charter in the USVI and the fleets are open for business. But, at a reduced level. Puerto Rico, which is also financially strapped, is recovering very slowly. The marinas are being rebuilt and new charter boats are being delivered. But, the island itself is a mess and will be for the foreseeable future. So, what are we, the chartering sailors of North America, to do? Well, we think that we all should make plans to go sailing in the islands this winter, and choose an island group that can really put your tourist dollars to work. And, the independent country of the BVI, where the charter business was born and where more people charter than anywhere else, or the USVI with direct flights to home, would be good places to start.
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photo by Bill Kund
SAILING Volume 23, Number 6 Blue Water Sailing, LLC 747 Aquidneck Avenue, Suite 201 Middletown, Rhode Island 02842 - USA phone: 401.847.7612 • fax: 401.845.8580 web: www.bwsailing.com SUBSCRIBER HOTLINE 866-529-2921
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Checking into England While at Sea
W
e had been at sea for 17 days on our crossing from Newport, RI to England aboard the Hanse 505 Maverick and we were wondering what we needed to do to check in with Customs and Immigration upon our arrival.
The issue at hand was that we were running out of fuel and needed to make a forced stop in the port of Falmouth in Cornwall. Would we be able to stop for fuel and then press on to Cowes without checking in? We were hoping that we could do a touch-and go and not check in. We’d been reading Reed’s Nautical Almanac and according to
Superior Stopping Power
their suggestion we thought it best to phone the Home Office number listed and ask what the best procedure would be for us. This was on a Friday afternoon. Maverick has an INMARSAT FleetOne satellite phone so we dialed the Home Office number and got a very pleasant young woman on the phone. She asked us a few questions and then passed us on to a proper customs agent. We answered a few more questions and were asked to stand by for an email. A couple of hours later, we got an email instructing us to fill out an attached form and then photocopy our passports and send the form and the copies as attachments to a marine branch of the Home Office. At this point, it was 1800 hours local time on a Friday and we
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• August 2018
guessed, having been in England before, that any custom officer worth his rank would be in a pub somewhere enjoying a pint with his mates. We did not expect to hear anything until Monday. We closed the English coast and shaped our course for Falmouth Harbour. We were very low on fuel so we planned to enter the harbor, tie up to a mooring for the night, go to the fuel dock first thing and then push on to Cowes as if nothing unusual had occurred. We wouldn’t really be “entering” England if we never set foot onto a dock or the shore, would we? But, we never got to put our touch-and-go illegal entry plan into play. At about 2000, the Customs officer, who we thought would by then be on his third pint, sent us an email that informed us
we had been cleared into England and were free to make landfall wherever we liked. Attached to the email, was an official letter on Home Office stationary that listed all of our names and the boat’s particulars above a formal letter announcing that Maverick and
all her crew were cleared to enter England. And, that, we guessed was that. No official stamps in our passports, no prying questions, no inspection of the 50-foot sloop we had sailed across the Atlantic, nothing. Just a very pleasant welcome to England. BWS
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{ WORLDSAILINGADVENTURES}
World Sailing Adventures
Blue Water Sailing’s Annual Guide to Chartering Around the World CHARTERING AROUND THE WORLD
As summer draws to an end, many of us are beginning to make our winter sailing and cruising plans. We know we want to escape the winter, wherever we live, and heading off on a charter in some exotic and warm area certainly is appealing. Or, we may want to take a winter break to spend a week or more building sailing and cruising skills or learning how to sail and handle a big cruising catamaran. Or, we might even be game for setting off on an oceanic expedition to learn passagemaking and blue water cruising skills from seasoned pros. 10
There’s a lot on offer for sailing in the fall, winter and spring seasons, so you just have to wrap your mind around what appeals to you and your family and then book your trip. Remember, the earlier you book, the more choices you have. And, if you book during a boat show, you are bound to get the best “boat show” rates. SAILING AMERICA
In fall and spring, there are great charter opportunities around the watery coastlines of America that will allow you to stay in your home country and keep travel costs under control. The Chesapeake Bay has several charter companies
that can get you out for a week or 10 days so you can explore the country’s largest and most diverse estuary. From Annapolis, MD, where most of the charter bases are located, you can sail north to Baltimore for an urban experience or head south to St. Michaels, Oxford and Solomon’s Island for a taste of the old waterman’s Chesapeake. Washington, DC is also a favorite stopover for those who want to explore our capital. The Pacific Northwest in fall and spring offers a wide range of charter options from bases in Tacoma, Seattle, Bellingham and beyond. The beautiful San Juan Islands are a favorite charter area BLUE WATER SAILING • August 2018
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where you will find plenty of moorings available and wonderful nature walks ashore. You will see eagles and osprey, and you might get a glimpse of a bear or two. You can sail across the border into Canada, too, if you feel like a wilder experience and the fun of going foreign. California has several options for chartering. In the fall and spring, San Francisco Bay can offer brisk sailing and cool nights, but the breeze will be steady and you don’t have to contend with the fog that makes summer cruising in the Bay problematical. Fall is a
lenging destination since both the weather and the prevailing currents – and cold water temperatures – can change quickly and storms are frequent. A crewed charter may well be the best option for most folks who want to charter in the area.
great time to cruise inland to wine country and you can get right up stream to Napa for the fall harvest season. Southern California has good sailing conditions all year round so you can get out to Catalina or cruise from harbor to harbor along the coastline in any season. For a long weekend or a week-long cruise, Catalina is a good option with several good harbors to visit and the fun of a visit to Avalon Harbor. The Channel Islands off Santa Barbara are a more chal-
you go you will be welcomed with open arms. The northern Abaco islands have long been home to charter companies that mainly operate out of Marsh Harbour where you can fly direct from the U.S. The cruising area is varied but destinations are all close by so you don’t have to make long daily runs between anchorages. Plus, there are stopovers like Hope Town that will be fun for a couple of days. The sailing in the Abacos can get boisterous in the winter
BAHAMAS BOUND
The island nation of the Bahamas lies just across the Gulf Stream from Florida but even though it is only 60 miles away, it offers charterers a whole new world of cruising to discover. Bahamians are laid back, friendly and always welcoming to sailors so everywhere
months when northerly fronts, known as “rages”, descend upon the islands from the continental U.S. You can get pinned down for a couple of days when such a system blows through making sailing and anchoring in exposed harbors unpleasant. But, if you are chartering in winter, you will always have safe havens in Marsh Harbour and Hope Town where there is plenty to keep you and your crew occupied. Fall, spring and summer are great seasons for exploring the Abacos. The winds tend to be moderate easterlies and both air and sea temperatures rise to comfortable levels. The diving in the islands is always fun and there are abundant reefs to explore and a wide variety of fish to watch flitting among the corals. South of Nassau lies the Exuma chain of islands that many veteran cruisers consider one of the finest cruising grounds, and least spoiled, in the world. The hundreds of islands that run from Allens Cay in the north to Stocking Island and George Town in the south offer many interesting and attractive anchorages that often you will share with only one or two other boats. The Land and Sea Park based on Warderick Wells is a group of islands in the north-central part of the Exumas that has been set aside as a nature preserve. To protect corals and underwater flora, moorings have been placed in several safe harbors that are close to the best snorkeling and hiking areas. You could spend a month exploring the park without spending more than a couple of days in one place. For charterers sailing from the bases in Nassau, a weekly itinerary could take you to the park BLUE WATER SAILING • August 2018
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and then on to Staniel Cay and the famous Pigs Bay nearby where wild pigs greet you on the beach. If you charter for 10 days or two weeks, you could get all the way south to George Town to be part of the huge cruising community that gathers there every winter.
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It is just a year since the British Virgin Islands, the USVI, Puerto Rico, St. Martin, Anguilla and Barbuda were devastated by hurricanes. While a lot of rebuilding has been taking place, these islands are still in recovery mode, some more so than others. The BVI has made a remarkable comeback after nearly total destruction from the hurricanes. The charter companies that are based in the BVI have made heroic efforts to rebuild their fleets and land-based infrastructure so in 2018 and 2019 you will be able to
enjoy sailing and chartering there as much as ever. Ashore in the BVI, there is still work to be done but the favorite attractions are coming back or are already up and running. Willy Ts is open again and has moved to Peter Island from the Bite at Normans. Foxy’s and the Soggy Dollar are open on Jost Van Dyke serving rum drinks as they always have and fine meals are rolling from the kitchens. North Sound at Virgin Gorda is coming back more slowly. Leverick Bay is open but there is still a lot of rebuilding to be done. Michael Beans is still singing pirate chanties a couple of times a week, the ice is still cold, the rum is still rum; plus, the weather is still perfect for chartering. The Bitter End,
BLUE WATER SAILING • August 2018
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which was totally flattened, will be rebuilt and the owners are looking at Christmas 2019 as a likely date for opening again. The charter companies in the USVI are also open for business and ready to send you out on a fun sailing vacation. While the infrastructure in St. Thomas and St. John is getting rebuilt, progress is slow. You'll find beach bars open and music still booming over the beaches. DOWN ISLAND CARIBBEAN
While the BVI is the charter capital of the Caribbean, there are great charter destinations all through the West Indies from Puerto Rico to Grenada. If you have sailed the BVI and USVI and want a different experience, then chartering down island has a lot of options.
St. Martin, St. Barths and Anguilla are putting themselves back together and opening for business following the devastation of last year’s hurricanes. For a week of sailing, snorkeling, dining ashore and mingling with the jet set, these three islands have a lot to offer. Like the BVI, the recovery in these islands is in progress but they are not back to 100-percent and won’t be for a while. St. Barts was the least damaged and is still a favored destination. Antigua was spared by last year’s hurricanes so it is still the sailing capital of the Eastern Caribbean and a great place to charter a sailboat. With charter bases in Jolly Harbour and English Harbour, you can choose to spend a week exploring the many anchorages around Antigua, or you can sail north to Barbuda, which was very heav-
ily damaged by the hurricanes. Barbuda still has some of the best beaches in the Caribbean and great snorkeling and diving. Ashore, the island was destroyed but the Antigua and Barbuda government in partnership with actor Robert De Nero and his friends have committed to rebuild the island’s infrastructure and resorts. North Americans don’t tend to charter in the French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique, but these islands are among the best in the whole Caribbean. As departments (states) of France, they have very modern facilities, great food and wine, excellent pastry shops and plenty of wonderful places to explore by boat. From Guadeloupe, you can explore Montserrat and St. Kitts to the north or Dominica to the south. Or, you can just explore the Isles des Saints right
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nearby. From Martinique, you can head north to Dominica or south to St. Lucia. The islands are tall and lush and have great hiking trails that lead to mountain tops and to waterfalls where the swimming is perfect. For a more sophisticated charter vacation, try the French islands. You won’t be disappointed. THE GRENADINES
St. Vincent and the Grenadines and the island nation of Grenada form the southern end of the Eastern Caribbean island chain and offer some of the world’s finest cruising and chartering grounds. From the charter bases at The Blue Lagoon in St. Vincent, you can head south to Bequia, Mustique and Canouan to enjoy safe harbors, amazing reefs and laid back Caribbean beach bars. From Grenada you can head
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around the island coast, which is fun to explore, and then sail north by Kick ‘m Jenny to Carriacou and the southern islands of the Grenadines. Grenada is still one of the most pleasant and safest islands in the Caribbean, while St. Vincent has developed a reputation for thievery and muggings. The Grenadines themselves are totally safe and offer a unique “old Caribbean” ambience. SOUTH PACIFIC
The hurricane season in the South Pacific runs from November through May but most tropical storm activity takes place in the far western side of the giant ocean, so French Polynesia and Tonga – two favorite charter areas – are open for business all year round. In
our winter months – the southern summer – the weather can be muggy and it will rain more often but for the most part the weather with be tropical, sunny and perfect. The charter bases in French Polynesia are on the island of Raiatea in the Iles sous les Vents, a hundred miles west of Tahiti. Since it is a long way to fly from the U.S., many charterers will choose to spend a day or two on Tahiti before flying out the Raiatea to pick uptheir boats. There are a lot of things to do in Tahiti so time spent there will be fun for all.
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Once on a charter boat, the usual cruising routes will take you to anchorages around Raiatea and Tahaa, which share a giant lagoon. Then you can head to Huahine for a day or two before making the passage to Bora Bora. Huahine is a laid back, natural Polynesian island without a lot of tourism. It’s a great place to meet locals and enjoy their hospitality. Bora Bora is everyone’s idea of the quintessential Polynesian 18
island with its tall spire mountain in the middle, a large protected lagoon all around it and many little islets or motus with perfect sand beaches and great snorkeling. Bora Bora is a tourist island and can be overrun with visitors. But, it is still lovely and lots of fun. A day-sail west of Bora Bora is the island of Maupiti, which resembles Bora Bora but is unspoiled by the tourist trade. The island is an all-natural Polynesian island
that will take you back in time to the age before 747s. The weather has to be calm for a visit to Maupiti since a strong southerly swell can make the pass into the lagoon untenable. But, if you can make it, a visit will be the highlight of any Polynesian charter. The best time to charter in French Polynesia is in June and early July when the villages all throughout the country are preparing for the annual festival called BLUE WATER SAILING • August 2018
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Hieva, which culminates on July 14. It is full-on party time and the locals make it really fun for visitors. TONGA
The Vava’u Group of islands in northern Tonga is the charter destination in this remote but beautiful island kingdom. A collection of hundreds of small islands all crammed into a region that is 20 miles by 20 miles, the group offers many anchorages, villages to visit, great beaches, caves to explore and amazingly settled weather. The Vava’u group has not been developed for
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the tourist trade. There are hotels but the travelers who find the islands tend to be adventurers, scuba divers, back packers and charter groups. The locals are rustic and fairly poor, although year by year their economy gets stronger. The locals welcome sailors and often a village or a large family will offer, for a fee, to put on a traditional Tongan feast with roast pork, vegetabes and music. For an off-thebeaten-track charter, Tonga offers a real adventure. NEW ZEALAND & AUSTRALIA
These two countries are truly home to some of the world’s best sailors and to some of the best cruising grounds in which to charter. Both are safe to cruise in the southern summer (hurricane season) so they make great winter escapes for sailors from the Northern Hemisphere. New Zealand’s Hauraki Gulf is a huge and lovely place to sail with many anchorages, islands to explore and towns to visit. You can sail out of Auckland, the main city, or from charter bases in the Bay of Islands 100 miles to the north. You can spend a week in the Bay of Islands alone but then you would miss out on Great Barrier Island, the Coromandel Peninsula and islands like Waiheki where rustic life meets the prosperous set from the big city. A charter in New Zealand should also be matched by a week of exploring the amazingly beautiful South Island. Across the Tasman Sea, the huge island nation of Australia has one favorite charter region that is known worldwide. The Whitsunday Islands are home to several charter bases and the region offers sailors a combination of amazing white beaches, snug anchorages, great reef diving and plenty of fun ashore at the resorts and beach 20
bars. The Aussies know a thing or two about having a good time, and sailing in the Whitsundays is certainly one of them. Like a visit to New Zealand, it makes a lot of sense to combine a land cruise with sailing vacation. Or, perhaps book a week of scuba diving on the Great Barrier Reef. SEYCHELLES
For North Americans, there is no more remote a charter area than the Seychelles in the middle of the Indian Ocean. This disparate group of rocky islands with vast coral formations and amazing white sand beaches is one of the most exotic places to sail in the world. Yet, it is today one of the most popular charter areas as well, particularly for Europeans. Just getting to the Seychelles is an adventure in traveling which for North Americans involves flying halfway around the world. But, once you get there, you will know that the effort was worthwhile because you are in a place like no other. The sailing is mild, the sun reliable and scenery second to none. The islands are off the east coast of Africa so if you have in mind a trek up Mt. Kilimanjaro or a safari on the Serengeti, then a charter in the Seychelles can be one exotic part of the vacation. THE MED EXPERIENCE
For a mixture of ancient cultures, great food, wonderful wine and beauty, cruising the Mediterranean Sea has no equal. There are three basic regions to charter and explore: the Aegean Sea, the Adriatic and Ionian Seas and the west coast of Italy, Corsica and Sardinia and the Balearic Islands of Spain. The Aegean is home to most of the famous Greek Islands and the west coast and Turquiose Coast of BLUE WATER SAILING • August 2018
Turkey. Combined, there are thousands of islands, harbors, villages and towns to explore, thousands of beach bars in which to sip retsina or ouzo, thousands of beaches to stroll and amcient ruins to wander through. In summer, the Aegean is a hot and stark region with blazing whitewashed buildings, many with blue roofs, and sparkling seascapes that are often torn up by the strong winds of the Meltemi. The best times to charter in the Aegean will be in spring and fall. The crowds are less, the Meltemi blows less frequently and the days and evenings will be cooler while the water temperature remains warm enough for long swims. The Ionian and Adriatic Seas that lie between Greece and Italy and run up to Croatia and Venice, form one of the prime charter areas of the Med. Thousands of rocky islands, often caped with ancient castles, forts and towers, offer endless opportunities for quiet anchorages, secluded bays and fun hikes inland. Then, there are the amazing, ancient coastal towns, with their crenelated castle walls,
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winding streets, busy waterfronts and excellent seafood bistros. The western Med offers an amazing selection of places to charter from the Bay of Naples, Capri and the Amalfi Coast in Italy’s southern region, to Elba and Corsica to the north. There are small charter fleets all along the Italian west coast and in Bonifacio, Corsica. Sardinia to the south is an experience all on its own and you can spend as much time ashore as you do afloat when you charter there. The most popular islands for chartering in the western Med are the Balearics off Spain’s east coast. The islands of Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza are perfect for a mixture of fun sailing, interesting harbors, fun towns with vibrant night lives and great hiking and touring ashore. Strolling by the beautifully illuminated 13th century cathedral in Palma, Mallorca on a balmy summer night on the way back to the boat after a fine dinner ashore ranks as a memory not soon forgotten. You could spend a month exploring these islands and still not see all that you want to see. BWS
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A Hard Night In The Caribbean
I
Engine trouble forced them to moor under sail…in the dark and 20 knots ofby Joanna windHutchinson
t had been a long day. We’d begun the 90-mile sail from Tortola in the BVIs to Saba shortly after breakfast. The wind had been blowing the predicted force five from ENE, and we’d spent the day close hauled with waves assaulting us from two different directions. It’d been a pretty wild ride and after 15 hours out on the water we were all looking forward to our arrival and a good night’s sleep. It was close to midnight when we approached the southwest shore of Saba in darkness and 22
headed towards a cluster of anchor lights where we hoped to find a mooring for the night. We furled our jib, turned on the engine and started to prepare a mooring line and search light. Three miles from the coast the noise of the engine suddenly faded and died. Our hearts sank. Our engine was usually so reliable, but without it now we realized we might have a long night ahead of us. We dropped the mainsail to slow down and give ourselves time to check the main fuel tank. It was as we’d feared: empty. We lifted
up the floorboards in the saloon to attach a fuel pump so we could transfer diesel from our second tank to the main one. The pump died. Hunting around in the dark, stress levels increased as the land looming in front of us grew closer. Fortunately, it was just a blown fuse which was easy enough to replace and the pumping resumed... but not for long. Our second tank was also empty. How could we have let this happen? I was sure we’d had more fuel. I felt so annoyed with myself for not checking. We had two reserve fuel canisBLUE WATER SAILING
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ters buried deep under the cockpit with another 10 gallons of fuel in total, but it would take a while to dig them out so we decided to try picking up the mooring under sail first. We were a sailboat after all, and with a crew of nine we had plenty of hands on deck. Our boat Pantagruel is a 50-foot, 22 tonne, long keel classic wooden yawl built in 1920. Sailing her on and off moorings in the middle of the night in 20 knot winds, in an unfamiliar location, is not something we practice very often. We sailed slowly towards the moorings using just our mizzen and staysail, which we furled in and out in order to approach at the right speed. We located a suitable buoy with our search light, and a long-armed crew member positioned himself on the foredeck ready for action. Once the buoy was in reach, he lunged with the boat hook for the pick-up line attached, lifting it out of the water. It was not to be, the end of the boathook snapped off under the strain and we drifted slowly away. In a moment of inspiration the owner and skipper, Micha, switched to the second fuel filter and tried to start the engine once more. Miraculously, it sprang to life just long enough for us to motor back to a good approach position before it died again. Knowing this could be our last chance, Micha crouched down on the toe rail and grabbed hold of the top of mooring with his hands. At the same moment the staysail unfurled itself and began to propel the boat forwards too fast for him to hold on. Could anything else go wrong?! We sailed away in the opposite direction before trying to tack back around to try picking up the mooring again. There was some www.bwsailing.com
current against us and with our reduced sail area we couldn’t get enough speed to turn through the wind and soon realized this was not going to be an easy task. We weren’t keen to hoist more sail as the moorings were so close to the land and the wind was gusty. Deflated, we hove to, drifted slowly back out to sea and dug out the spare fuel canisters. Once new fuel was in the tank (and all over the deck) we restarted the engine. It wouldn’t start. After a few more tries we decided the filters must be blocked and gave up before we drained the batteries completely. Disappointment and exhaustion were written over everyone’s face as the reality of the situation sunk
in. At 50 meters, it was too deep to anchor here, plus our anchor winch was electric and we didn’t feel comfortable taking any risks now that the battery voltage was so low. If we couldn’t pick up a mooring here we’d have to sail 20 miles further on to the next island Statia to find an easier anchorage there in daylight.
Blocked primary fuel filter
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{ LIVINGABOARD } Secondary fuel filter
As a last resort for getting some sleep that night we made for different moorings further around the coast to the south of the island. We sailed in silence, all eyes scanning the water, until our searchlight reflected a new buoy and we aimed slowly for it. We were on target when a gust came and blew us straight past. Not willing to give up yet we Searching for moorings along the coast
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patiently sailed back against the wind to position ourselves to try again. We lined ourselves up, took it slow and arrived almost stationary next to the buoy. I didn’t want to risk us not being able to get the mooring line onboard. I took off my life jacket, attached a rope to myself and the boat and jumped into the water (something I would have thought twice about had we been sailing in Scotland!). I tried to examine the mooring in the dark and handed the pick-up line to the crew onboard. It was broken! This was such bad luck I thought miserably scrambling about in the water to see if there was another solution. Micha spotted another rope underneath me and I ducked down to try to reach it. This was the right line! I handed it up to the outstretched hands of
our crew who hurriedly thread our mooring line through it’s eye and tied it securely on deck. Finally, the end of our night was in sight. The next morning, we checked the main fuel tank and realized we’d made a mistake, it was still half full. It’d been hard to see that in the dark and with the boat rolling we had completely misjudged things. Instead of beAttempting to pick up a mooring under sail
ing out of fuel, the problem was that the outlet of the tank and the filters had been blocked with sediment. It’d been three years since we had cleaned the tanks and the bumpy ride down from the BVI had stirred up the dirt. We now had no choice but to pump the fuel back out and spend the day giving our tanks a good clean! At least we had clear turquoise water to jump in once we’d
finished. We replaced the filters and the engine growled back to life. It was like hearing the voice of an old friend. We set sail for Statia silently vowing to maintain our tanks better in future and we are thankful that this happened in the relatively calm warm waters of the Caribbean. BWS Joanna Hutchinson grew up on the outskirts of London, completed a
PhD in mathematical physics in Bristol and worked as a scientific researcher in Australia, India and Japan. She started sailing intensively six years ago and finished a RYA yachtmaster last summer. She is currently on a circumnavigation aboard the classic wooden yawl Pantagruel in honor of her 100th birthday! You can follow our journey on our website www. sypantagruel.com”
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Antonio’s Forbidden Coconut
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hy would an Italian single hander know anything about coconuts laying on the ground in the San Blas Islands? They litter the flat sandy islands by the hundreds and like brown colored leaves in the fall, the large nuts and fallen tropical branches look to be a nuisance no one cares to kick into a pile and burn. We were a flotilla of four sailboats that watched our anchors 26
In the San Blas Islands, a group of cruisers encounter law and order Kuna Yala-style by Patrick Childress
bury into the sand near Port Obaldia, one of at least 365 islands in Kuna Yala in the San Blas Islands along the north coast of Panama. My friends on the second Italian boat Ghibli, with brothers Leonardo and Max, had their hands full dealing with their excited small black dog, Imanez, who was wound up and bouncing at the sight and terrestrial scents and the need for an unrestricted run. With the third Italian boat and a fourth French boat, both skippered by singlhanders, we all conferred;
we organized an excursion to stay far away from the village, which we knew was out of sight, just around a bend in the shore. We would walk along the fine white ribbon surrounding a forest of bushy headed coconut palms where there were no signs of humans. On the way back to our beached dinghies, Leonardo and Max thought it would be a tropical food gathering experience to pick up two brown coconuts and work through the challenge of opening the sturdy layers, digging into the BLUE WATER SAILING
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edible white part, and drink the liquid we could hear shaking on the inside. Since they had no nut opening tools on their boat, they put the two nuts in my dinghy as we would eventually meet in the evening at my boat and see what damage we could do to the fibrous husks with my sharp machete. After half an hour, three squat, solid shouldered, Kuna men paddled a long log, roughly hewn on the inside to form a canoe, along side my sailboat. The men were composed and friendly when they replied to my question about anchoring around the corner in front of the village. “Yes, but you must pay the Saila (chief) $5 per day per boat and
another $50 for the two coconuts.” These men wore no shirts, and certainly no uniform, yet they had the presence of self assured authority. During this discussion, the Italian brothers, minus their dog, and the two singlehanders from the other two boats, became curious about the lingering delegation so they all arrived as an armada of dinghies surrounding the Kuna canoe. I first informed our fleet of foreigners about the charges for anchoring which seemed agreeable and then told them the charge of $50 for the two brown coconuts, which were still sitting in my dinghy. That lit a fuse bursting with great howls of laughter from the sailors.
The Kuna men were not amused. Being an agreeable lot, we were more than willing to return the two coconuts, even to place them in their previous resting spots on the sandy ground inland from the beach. But this was to no avail. The Kuna delegation wanted money! Maybe they didn’t understand how much $50 really was so we offered some things to trade; a hat, t-shirt, a small flashlight and cigarettes for the coconuts. The deal was done, everyone was happy and I received a written receipt for our exchange. The next morning I saw a Kuna canoe closing the distance directly for my boat, but it had only a single Kuna paddling determinedly. I
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suspected complications were brewing so I put out a call on the VHF to my floating friends to come quickly. The Kuna man was very upset and absolutely not friendly. He insisted we must pay $50 for the two coconuts that were no longer on his island. Despite showing him our receipts of trade for the coconuts, he was adamant about payment. He insisted those were not coconuts for others to sell. He wanted the money! There was no immediate resolution but there was a possible solution. The Kuna man said we must all go to the Saila, the big “chief” who administers the day-to-day political and social affairs of the island. This was the day he held court to settle personal disputes in the village. THE SAILA DECIDES So all five of us cruisers organized an expedition to plead our case in front of the Saila. Now Lello, the other Italian single hander, is always a great humor28
ist to have around. He decides we must march together and display cohesiveness, dignity and act like the organized international delegation that we are. We must march single file, the first person carrying on a stick raised high, displaying a tremendously large Italian flag that Lello happened to have on board. I had guarded possession of one
of the offending coconuts, while Bubu, the French singlehander, cradled the second coconut with determined possessiveness. With our big flag waving high over our heads, we gleefully marched and joked far behind the Kuna who was determined to drag us into justice. Our formation came to a highstepping, foot-pounding halt, in BLUE WATER SAILING
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front of a long weathered building made of vertical wood sticks and a large sweeping thatched roof. Dipping the staff of our glorious flag and our own heads to enter the doorway, we shuffled through the sand into the shaded interior. Inside, we stood shoulder to shoulder in front of a long, weathered table, behind which sat the regal Saila. This was a time for decorum, respect, no smiles, no jokes. The foot of the staff of our delegation’s banner rested in the sand, supported by the hand of Lello, the Italian colors hanging limp from the lack of breeze. The Salia was flanked by two seated “voceros” who function as interpreters and counselors. The offended Kuna man spoke first. On and on he pleaded with hand motions and expressions but we had no understanding of his words. Certainly, he is explaining what great thieves these invading Europeans are. Then it became our turn. Bubu and I placed the treasured coconuts on the table in front of the Saila. The Saila studied us individually then as a group for a full two minutes of silence. I don’t think he had ever seen Italians and a French man before. Then he asked, “Well, Italiani?” and we replied, “Yes” “Pasta?” We are not quite sure what he means but we answered “Yes” “Pizza?” Maybe these are things he has heard about Italians and he is seeing if it is true so we replied “Yes” “Mafia?” he asked. “Oh Yes!” we replied. “What do you say about the coconuts?”
ers in a language that was Greek to us. Then he declared “The problem you brought here is too banal. Go away and find a friendly solution between yourselves. But all of you must stay away from the village unless you are accompanied by a Kuna guide.” Being dismissed by the Saila, everyone filed outside into the bright sun. We proposed a simple solution to the Kuna man. We did not feel it was right to pay $50 for two coconuts but we offered to pay that much for one of his pigs. With the pig, we would make a big barbecue on the beach for his family and the Kuna community. Surprisingly, he agreed. The Kuna man went home to prepare the pig and we went back to our boats to begin cooking spaghetti al pomodoro, a big focaccia bread, red wine and we dug out stores of cigarettes. Shortly after noon, on the beach in front of our anchored sailboats, a pit was dug where a large fire was built and the pig was roasted. It was a festive event. Other native foods and
fruits were piled onto a blue tarp we had laid in the shade of the tall palms. It grew into a great feast, with guitars, singing, even the Saila and his voceros came. Everyone had fun and the party lasted well into the night. From that day forward, anytime we went ashore, villagers offered us banana, mangoes, papaya, and coco, too. And, the Saila gave us permission to visit the island and village without a guide. This story happened many years ago. Now, there are far more visiting sailboats and there are far more people living on the islands of Kuna Yala. Much has changed. We hope they protect the islands. We send a message to every sailboat visiting San Blas........the coconuts are forbidden, but if you treat people gently, they will offer to you far more. BWS Patrick Childress is have been out cruising with his wife Rebecca aboard their Valiant 40 Brick House for the last 10 years. When he was in his twenties he circumnavigated singledhanded in a Catalina 27.
THE VERDICT We recounted the experience and showed him the receipt. The Saila huddled with his two adviswww.bwsailing.com
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TREKKING IN THE "JEWEL OF MICRONESIA"
Long term and off-themilk-run cruisers, discover the natural wonders and history on an enchanting Micronesian island by Patricia Gillette, PhD 30
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rekking into the rainforest to view the Menka Ruins on the stunningly beautiful island of Kosrae, Federated States of Micronesia, was one of those experiences which was surprisingly impressive and energizing. My husband and I met Salik Wakuk by the bridge in the small village of Utwe, Kosrae. He guided us to the Menka Trail down a bumpy dirt road. Having no idea where we were going or what we were about to see added to my excitement for the trek. The ruins were not noted in any research I had done on the island. The
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path through the rainforest was relatively flat but very challenging due to the wet and slippery terrain. Salik quickly crafted two walking sticks from the local forest for us. Annual rainfall is 200 inches per year in Kosrae, so we were destined to get wet. But no worry, the forest provides wonderful coverage. We crossed the Menka River five times, sometimes walking on tree roots which were submerged underwater. The water was crystal clear. Salik explained to us that this was his family’s land and that his grandfather had kept information about the ruins a secret until he eventually confided in Professor Emeritus Harvey Segal, a noted
teacher and longtime resident of Micronesia, in the 1960’s. Since that time, there has been more interest in the ruins and other archeologists have come and visited the site. However, the ruins have never become as popular as the nearby Lelu Ruins or the neighboring island’s Pohnpei Nan Madol ruins. Our goal for the day was to visit the ruins but, as is so often happens, it is never the destination where the joy lies, it’s the journey. THE RAIN FOREST Salik was engaging and informative as he introduced us to native plants of the rainforest, rich with food, tools, medicine
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and sheer beauty. We were first introduced to the Ka tree (Terminalia Carolinesis-Combretaceae) considered endemic only to Kosrae and its neighboring island, Pohnpei. It is a tall (up to 100 feet), straight, highly valued and remarkably strong tree with a fluted trunk at the base that may be several yards above the ground and can stretch out 30 feet. The straight trunks are a major source of wood for building canoe hulls, which are an integral part of the Micronesian culture. Ka is also used for house construction and is a source of medicine. Additionally, if ever lost 32
in the forest, you can pound the root with a rock and alert others of your plight because it resonates like a drum in the forest. So, let’s say I have my canoe, but as any sailorknows, time will come for the inevitable leak and need for repair. Again, the forest delivers. Salik introduced us to the “acid tree,’ which produces a natural caulk. When you peel off the bark, the tree produces an epoxy type material which is mixed with local ‘lapa soil” producing a caulk which can be used to repair many things, including canoes. After a strenuous hike, it was
time for a rest on the bamboo bench Salik had built along the trail. Giant bamboos are the largest members of the grass family. Certain species of bamboo can grow three feet in a 24 hour period at a rate of almost 1.5 inches an hour. They are of notable economic and cultural significance and used as food, medicine, construction (scaffolding), writing surface, weapons, fishing lines and musical instruments. While resting, Salik demonstrates the use of the red round fruits, locally called “Srifacf” which are found all over the forest floor. These fruits eventually dry out and can be eaten. They taste like walnuts. Delicious! Another delicious and nutritious plant caught our attention, the Fiddlehead ferns. These furled fronds of young fern can be harvested for use as a vegetable. Fiddleheads have antioxidant activity, are a source of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, and are high in iron and fiber. The fiddlehead resembles the curled ornamentation (called a scroll) on the end of a stringed instrument, such as a violin. They are majestic plants. Ginger is a beautiful forest flower in bright pink with white trim. But don’t be fooled by its beauty, it is much more than an ornamental flower. It has a long history of being used in lots of medicinal treatments. The root or stem, known as the rhizome, is packed with phenolic compounds BLUE WATER SAILING
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that help improve the digestive system when consumed regularly. Ginger also reduces nausea and muscle pain from those long canoe rides. It bolsters your body’s immune system to combat the common cold, flu and other similar problems. Locals also use the ginger leaves to wrap fish in before putting it on the fire resulting in a moist, delicious grilled fish. And, now for a heavy hitter, the medicinal plant of Noni (Morinda citrifolia L) which has been used in the Pacific region for over 2,000 years. Everyone has heard about Noni as it is commercially available all over the world. Noni was one of those plants that Pacific Islanders brought with them in their canoes when they migrated from their native land years ago. Salik said that verbal www.bwsailing.com
history given to him taught him to keep the plant in a jar for a few days until the plant softens. The plant creates a horrible stench and is difficult to ingest. However, he told us
that the one time he did this, his nasal passages opened widely and his sense of smell increased considerably. There are many scientific papers on noni and this particular
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in beautiful colors with rich dazzling hues. One of the stunners is known as the Australian rainbow eucalyptus tree (Eucalyptus deglupta). This tree thrives in these lush, wet tropical forests. The unique multi-colored bark draws immediate attention. Patches of outer bark are shed annually at different times, showing off their bright green inner bark. These patches then darken and mature to give blue, purple, orange and maroon tones. This continual peeling results in vertical colorful streaks of bright blues, greens and orange. MENKA RUINS After a couple of hours of hiking, we came to the hidden ruins where Salik has constructed Moss Man to protect the land when he is not there. The ruins consist of hundreds of rectangular parameters built from rocks piled together. The parameters are approximately 33 by 40 feet, some being larger. The one parameter consists of only the outer rock formation but the second structreatment method is noted to be effective for joint pain and arthritis. As we continued our hike, I encountered a different type of problem, a broken camera strap. No, we didn’t go to the internet or the local hardware store, the forest provided. Known locally as “lo” the beach hibiscus (Hibiscus Tiliaceus) is used for canoe parts, crafts, and fuel wood. The fibrous inner bark is utilized for cordage and parts of the plant are used medicinally. Beach hibiscus is culturally significant throughout the Pacific. The rainforest abounds 34
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ture (or room) has an inner pile of rocks built up about three feet in the center. Historians note that visitors to Kosrae in the 1800’s spoke with local elders who knew some English and were good informants. The Menka ruins are similar to religious structures found in other Pacific islands. Salik says that it appears the structures are from the 12 th Century BC at which time Micronesians practiced ancient religious ceremonies. Three gods in particular were served by a group of priests: Sinlanka, the breadfruit goddess and her husband, Nosrunsrap, god of thunder, and Sikaus, associated with many
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taboo places. I asked Salik what he believed would be “taboo” places. He replied that at times the priests would sit in a circle and drink kava. Salik thought long and hard and I think perhaps I was invading on private space. Eventually, Salik stated that there were rituals, often involving kava and flesh cutting. As we sat surrounded by these mystical ruins deep in the green, lush forest, I imagined what living here would be like centuries before. All we needed was right here – nourishment for the body, clean water for bathing and drinking and various woods to build with and keep me dry. Plants were medicinal
should we become ill. I imagine that with the limited knowledge of the world of that day, it would be easy to believe that the gods were somewhere “out there” providing for me and my family. So, as we said goodbye to Salik, I felt grateful to be living on this wonderful planet and was reminded again of the need for environmental protection and global conservation. BWS Patricia Gillette and her husband are in Australia aboard their 46foot sloop Liberte after an extensive Pacific cruise. They plan to sail to Darwin and then set off to cross the Indian Ocean to Cape Town, South Africa.
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Leopard 50: Luxury Afloat
The new Leopard 50 is destined to be one of the most popular mid-size family cruisers in the multihull market by George Day
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e were all checking our phones as we gathered at the Leopard 50 in the Harbor Towne Marina because the forecast was for serious thunder squalls later that morning. The storm was brewing over southwestern Florida and aiming right for us in Dania, which is just south of Ft. Lauderdale. The green blotches on the radar had large yellow and red highlights that indicated both really heavy rain and probably lightning. But that didn’t stop us. We climbed aboard the new 50, let go 36
the lines and inched our way out the marina entrance in Dania Cut. At the helm was regular Leopard skipper Calvyn, plus Steve Long and Katie Baker from the Leopard sales and marketing team. Under power, the 50 handled smartly, turning in its own length inside the marina and then strutted easily into the building breeze at cruising revs as we motored down the canal toward the cut at Port Everglades that would take us to the open sea. The boat comes standard with two 57-horsepower diesels that are easily accessible in the large engine compartments aft. The 50 we sailed had the optional raised lounge on top of the hard
Bimini that covers the cockpit. This is a great space and even though it is quite high, you do not feel like you are on top of a multi-tiered wedding cake. The helm is raised to starboard and at a level right between the cockpit and the raised lounge so the helmsperson is always in contact with the rest of the crew. Visibility from the helm is good but the port bow is just out of sight behind the cabintop for those under six feet tall or so. The ergonomics of the helm are well thought out so a lone watch stander can manage all lines and sheets through a battery of deck organizers, line stoppers and the three electric winches. Certainly, on a boat of this size, owners would be wise to go with electric winches instead of manual ones. Once we reached the ship turning basin at Port Everglades, we hoisted the huge mainsail which has a two-part halyard and a country mile of line to gather as the sail inches upward. It’s a big sail with BLUE WATER SAILING
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full battens and 1,066 square feet of area. We motorsailed out the cut and then fell off the wind and rolled out the genoa. In big cruising cats, the sensation of speed or even acceleration can often be muted or subtle. That wasn’t the case with the Leopard 50. The big mainsail and 125-percent genoa with a total area of 1,750 square feet, packed plenty of power to get the cat moving smartly. The wind was blowing at about 12 knots and we were making 7.5 to 8 sailing up wind at an apparent angler of about 50 degrees. We threw the big cat through a few tacks and determined that it would easily tack inside 100 degrees and in flat water would get close to 90 degrees. But, a big cat like this is happier sailing at about 50 degrees off the wind instead of being pinched. Calvyn was happy to let me run the boat so I took the helm and ran through a series of tacks and jibes without assistance from the crew. The boat can easily be singehanded if the autopilot is working properly and the electric winches are functioning. Once you get the lay of the land, all lines and sheets are where they should be so even jibing in the rising breeze was not a huge challenge on my own. Off the wind the 50 was more in her element and at 110 degrees apparent it really showed the performance built into the design and sail plan. The breeze was building and the dark clouds of the advancing squall were rising over the western horizon but we carried on and tried to get the boat to maintain 10 knots while accelerating to over 11 in the puffs. We finally had to relent as the dark clouds gathered and the radar images on our phones www.bwsailing.com
showed an alarming number of dark red thunder head patches. We raced back into the inlet and quickly dowsed the sails. The mainsail fell neatly into the stack-pack sail cover and the genoa rolled away with the press of a button. With the throttles down, we hightailed it back to the marina and managed to get the big boat into its marina slip in a piping cross wind just in time to beat the rain, thunder and lightning. The Leopard 50 was a pleasure to handle under power and showed a good turn of speed at over 8 knots when we were in a hurry. Under sail it performed above average for a modern production cat intended for the charter fleets as well as private owners. Ten knots is a pleasant cruising speed and the 50 can do that in the right conditions. Plus, the boat is set up so it can be singlehanded, which is a requirement for couples cruising on their own. LIVING ABOARD While an owner might choose the Leopard 50 for it’s overall ease of handling and performance, there is no question that at the top of the list of positive qualities will be the boat’s spaciousness, accommodations and dedication
to comfortable living. The main cockpit is huge but it is only one of three outside cockpits. The U-shaped dinette will seat up to eight and will be the spot for most meals in warm weather. There is a drawer style fridge in the cockpit and easy access to the staircase that leads to the lounge. Aft, between the hulls there is a platform that rises and lowers mechanically that doubles as a massive swim platform and a dinghy dock, with a folding cradle, that will hoist the dinghy clear of 37
Leopard 50
the water when underway. On the foredeck, you will find another cockpit with a roof and a sliding hatch over it where one could sit in the shade and read or simply watch the world go by. This can be accessed through a large, weather-proof door from the saloon. Just ahead of the cockpit is a large sun bed that runs across the bridge deck. Under the pads you will find the generator, the water tanks and the windlass and chain locker. There are large storage lockers on the forward ends of both hulls for fenders, lines, downwind sails, a second dinghy and other spares. The starboard locker can be fitted out as crew’s quarters with a single bunk and a head. The saloon is set up for indooroutdoor living with the door in the front and a large sliding door and sliding window aft. When everything is open, the breeze will flow unobstructed right through the boat from bow to stern. As you enter the saloon from the aft cockpit, there is another eight-person dinette that will be
the spot for meals in rainy or cool weather when the boat can be buttoned up. The chart table is forward and to port while the huge galley takes over the whole starboard side of the saloon. With giant windows all around, the saloon is a very bright, airy and inviting space. The hull accommodations can be set up with three, four or fivecabin layouts and up to five heads. The boat we were sailing had the normal four-cabin layout with two comfortable cabins in each hull. Access is via a single stairway into the port hull or via two stairways into the starboard hull. The master cabin in the four-cabin layout is the aft starboard cabin. The cabins are large and have plenty of ventilation and light. Plus, the boat can be rigged with air conditioning run by the genset so you can stay comfortable even on hot muggy nights. There is a remarkable amount of storage space throughout the boat which in turn makes the 50 ideally suited for living aboard and long range cruising. The fit and finish of the 50 has been done to a high standard with an emphasis on simplicity and uniformity in all of the veneers, ta-
LOA LWL Beam Draft Displ. Sail area Bridge Clear Mast height Engines Water Fuel Waste
50’6” 48’11” 26’5” 5’3” 44,092 lbs 1,750 sq. ft. 3’3” 77’2” 57-hp. X 2 185 gals. 264 gals 45 Gals
www.Leopardcatamarans.com
ble and counter tops, doors and the floors. Keeping a boat like the 50 in trim and clean will be easy and not require a lot of elbow grease. BWS THOUGHTS The Leopard 50 does a lot of things well and will be a great addition to a charter fleet or a fine private yacht for an adventurous couple. It is east to sail and does sail very well. It powers efficiently and handles tight quarters with twin-engine ease. With 264 gallons of fuel, the 50 will have a cruising range under power at 7 plus knots of nearly 900 miles. Running on one engine at six knots would give you a range of more than 1,200 miles – which, FYI, happens to be the distance between Bali and Singapore in an equatorial region known for little or no wind. The 50 is a very large 50 footer so even with the four-cabin layout, you will always have privacy and a place to find some quiet time. Fifty feet seems to be the new mid-size for cruising cats and I can see why. The boat is big enough to be a proper home yet not so large that it swallows you. It is easy to sail and fast enough to make quick work of long passages but not too complicated for a couple to manage on their own. The new Leopard 50, which replaced the very popular Leopard 48, is destined to be an even bigger success. BWS BLUE WATER SAILING
• August 2018
Every Mack Sail Is Proudly Made in our Stuart, Florida, Sail Loft Our 50th Year
Manta 42 Project led
instal Our rigging department a Boom a new Schaefer Gamm ak es m o n th is M an ta 4 2 th at coast st regular runs from the ea . We as of Florida to the Baham existe then built a new jib for th w full ne ing camber boom and ro ll erb at te n m ai n sa il fo r th e n si ve te fu rl in g b o o m . O u r ex catare experience with offsho booms marans and with furling ith a w provided our customer great integrated system.
Photo: Billy Black
The Biggest Small Loft in the USA
Call 800-428-1384
info@macksails.com • www.macksails.com WE SHIP EVERYWHERE AND PAY THE FREIGHT OF NEW SAILS AND MACK PACKS.
BETA MARINE RELIABILITY AND MORE!
THE
CHANDLERY
Engine Model Beta 38
More than just a reliable engine...all of our new engines are equipped with a serpentine belt drive system for the alternator at no extra cost!
What a concept! Engineered to be serviced easily
Beta 30 in a Morris Justine Engine Model Beta 14 Beta 16 Beta 20
Beta 25
Vessel Albin Vega Cape Dory 28 Catalina 30 Tartan 30 Catalina 30 Contessa 32 Island Packet 27 Pearson Vanguard Alberg 35 Morgan OI 33 Alberg 37 Pearson 35
Engine Model Beta 30 Beta 38 Beta 43 Beta 50 Beta 60
Vessel Catalina 36 Sabre 38Mk1 Valiant 37 Westsail 32 Hinckley B40 Valiant 40 Bristol 41.1 Morgan 41 OI Morgan 45 CSY 44
Some of our installations
Approved in California
Marine engines using Kubota Diesels from 13.5 to 100 HP. Including Atomic 4 replacements and saildrive engines. Quiet diesels with clean emissions that meet current EPA requirements, without the need for computer controlled common rail complexity.
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PO Box 5, Minnesott Beach, NC 28510 877-227-2473 • 252-249-2473 • fax 252-249-0049 info@betamarinenc.com
www.betamarinenc.com
The Feathering Prop For An Easier, More Enjoyable Sail For better performance!
THE 10 YEAR ANTI-FOULING PAINT • EPA and CA Approved; Doesn't Leach or Ablate • Prevents hard growth in all climates and water conditions • Anti-fouling protection doesn’t “die” when out of the water • Coppercoat has been successfully protecting boats around the world for 22 years
• Available in 2, 3 & 4 blade versions
• The blades will have identical pitch at all times
• Jprop uses only helical (continuously engaged) gears
• Fits all shafts and saildrives
_ For product and application information visit: www.CoppercoatUSA.com
For questions and to purchase Coppercoat Please call 321.514.9197 40
Imported & Distributed By
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BLUE WATER SAILING
• August 2018
Discover the Dufour Difference 2017 Dufour 512 GL Our Trade New Listing Price $439,000
Like New, Low Hours. Available Now, 100K Below New FEATURED BOATS
Hinckley 41...1966 Offered at $125,000
Beneteau 43...2008 Asking $190,000
Farr 395...2002 Asking $160,000
Freedom 36/38...1986 Offered at $65,000
Beneteau 473….2004 Asking $179,000
Baltic 35….1989 Offered at $89,000
CNB 70...2007 Offered at $1,545,000 Duty Paid
Hunter 41...2001 Offered at $114,000
www.NorthstarYachtSales.com 401-683-9200
The Moorings Yacht Brokerage has the world’s largest selection of pre-owned charter yachts. 2013 LEOPARD 39
Thula Thula II- 3 cab/ 2 head Located in BVI Asking $269,000
2013 LEOPARD 44
Tropical Escape - 4 cab/ 4 head Located in Abacos Asking $399,000
2013 LEOPARD 48
Vin En Rose - 4 cabin/ 4 head Located in St. Lucia Asking $539,000
2014 LEOPARD 39
Va’A Alofa - 4 cabins/ 2 heads Located in Abacos Asking $275,000
2013 LEOPARD 48
Star Eyes - 4 cabins/ 4 heads Located in Tortola Asking $489,000
Following Models available in Tortola Starting November 2018 ’14 Leopard 51PC.....$650,000 ’11 Leopard 47PC.....$399,000 ’11 Leopard 47PC…..$399,000 ’10 Beneteau 50…....$199,000 ’11 Leopard 46...…...$389,000 ’10 Jeanneau 44i.......$115,000 ’12 Jeanneau 409......$119,000 ’13 Jeanneau 33i....….$79,000
2013 LEOPARD 44
Mwah - 4 cabins/ 4 heads Located in Grenada Asking $385,000
2014 LEOPARD 48
Zumbrota - 4 cabins/ 4 heads Located in Tortola Asking $499,000
2013 JEANNEAU SO 509
Sabamba - 4 cabin/ 4 head Located in Tortola Asking $229,000
www.mooringsbrokerage.com | 800-850-4081 | info@mooringsbrokerage.com
The number one source for buying and selling Pre-Owned Leopard Catamarans. The Leopard Catamarans in our inventory are fully equipped for cruising and living aboard, and most have neve been chartered. Call or e-mail for more details on any of our listings today! Visit our website to see our entire list of Pre-Owned Leopard Catamarans.
SLEEK
•
SUPERIOR
•
SEAWORTHY
2014 Leopard 51 pC
2009 Leopard 47 pC
2015 Leopard 48
$600,000
$429,000 ”sex sea Cat” 2003 Leopard 47
$789,000
$179,000
2008 Leopard 47 pC
$329,000 “isLand home” 2016 Leopard 44
$359,000
$529,000
$229,000
“weiss”
2013 Leopard 48
$609,000
“soLum gratia”
“wiLd Cat”
“dodo”
2008 Leopard 40
2015 Leopard 44
$242,000
$569,000
“mystique”
“Low fLight”
”C-star”
2006 Leopard 40
“omaha rainbow
2010 Leopard 38
“no Charge”
1999 Leopard 38
$168,000
“she Loves me”
www.leopardbrokerage.com | 800-850-4081 | brokerage@leopardcatamarans.com
sailing opportunities
CLASSIFIEDS
SAIL A TALL SHIP IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC Explore legendary islands including Galapagos, Pitcairn, Tahiti, Bora Bora, Samoa, Tonga and more! Trainee and passengers berths. Casting off October 2012 Barque PICTON CASTLE (902) 634-9984 www.picton-castle.com
Two Can Sail Want to learn to cruise together as a Couple? Captains Jeff and Jean can help you both become confident as individuals and as a team. Conducting prepurchase surveys, voyage training on your boat. Eastern US, Gulf Coast and Caribbean. www.TwoCanSail.com
rally opportunity
Sail aboard a Swan (46 to 60 feet) in the 19th Annual NARC Rally. Newport-St.Maarten. October 28, 2018 E-mail offshorepassage@sprintmail.com or call 1-800-4-PASSAGe or 631-423-4988 www.sailopo.com
BOAT SELECTION CONSULTATION SERVICE Looking for the right boat for offshore voyaging? For a flat fee I will use my extensive experience to help you evaluate, locate and purchase the best possible boat for your investment. John Neal www.mahina.com/consult
SAILMAKING EXCELLENCE Stuart • FLORIDA • Ft. Lauderdale
(772)283-2306 • FAX 283-2433 1-800-428-1384 www.macksails.com
Specializing in Packages
gear Mattress comfort without the mattress price!
888-989-6503
EASYSTOW FENDERS® Stop filling up your valuable storage space with air. Easystow Fenders store in as little as 1/12th their inflated size. 5 foot models can replace hard to use fender board arrangements. Practical Sailor rated heavy duty models“best choice”. www.easystowfenders.com 800-437-7654
The ORIGINAL, since 2001 www.airheadtoilet.com • 740-392-3642 PO Box 5 Mt. Vernon, OH 43050
Small Ad, Small Prices Standing and running rigging, life lines, winches, furlers, line and all types of sailing hardware. We are a rigging shop specializing in discount mail order. Problem solving is one of our specialties. Since 1984. Rigging Only www.riggingandhardware.com e-mail: sail@riggingonly.com or call 508-992-0434
KISS-SSB
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THE PROVEN GROUND SYSTEM FOR YOUR MARINE SSB RADIO
AIS SSB
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Navigation, Communication & Weather
DISPLAY
Index of Advertisers CHARTER
Alexseal...................................19 843-654-7755 ATN................................. Cover IV 800-874-3671 Celestaire.................................21 800-727-9785 Chris Parker Weather................. 9 863-248-2702 Gori Propellers........................... 8 800-801-8922 Ocens.......................................20 206-878-8270 • 410-263-0008 THE CHANDLERY
www.tuftedtopper.com
44
gear
Offshore Passage Opportunities Swan Offshore Program
OFFSHORE PASSAGE OPPORTUNITIES Sail for free helping boat owners and delivery skippers move boats. To join call 1-800-4-PASSAGe (1-800-472-7724) or join online at www.sailopo.com Celebrating 25th Anniversary
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AB Marine ................................. 9 401-847-7960 Beta Marine.............................40 877-227-2473 • 252-249-2473 Coppercoat...............................40 321-514-9197 J Prop.......................................40 401-847-7960 Mack Sails................................39 800-428-1384
Blue Water Sailing Sch....... 46, 47 800-255-1840 • 954-763-8464 Cruise Abaco............................17 321-473-4223 Dream Yacht Charter................11 855-208-7567 Island Yachts............................15 340-775-6666 Mahina....................................16 360-378-6131 Moorings .................................. 7 800-669-6529 Offshore Sailing School.............. 5 888-385-6177 Sunsail............................. Cover II 800-437-7880 TMM.........................................13 800-633-0155 BROKERAGE Moorings........................... 41, 42 800-850-4081 Northstar Yacht Sales................42 401-683-9200
MULTIHULLS QUARTERLY
Just $9.99 for four issues full of reviews, racing news and multihull destinations! Now in digital format Subscribe online at
www.zinio.com/mq BLUE WATER SAILING • August 2018
self-steering Become a Shipbuilding Syndicate Member or Plank Owner. Find out how you can become a part of this historic ship.
BLUE WATER
magazine
• boats • products • services
Blue Water Sailing readers: own boats over 30' own boats over 40' average LOA # of days onboard yearly have bareboat chartered
80% 29% 41'3" 62 72%
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Just leave your Hydrovane on Independent self-steering windvane AND Emergency rudder... • • • •
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CLASSIFIEDS
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SSV Oliver Hazard Perry will be Rhode Island’s own tall ship to join the select fleet of worldwide Class-A size Tall Ships. With this extraordinary ship we can provide education at sea programs to youth of all ages.
www.hydrovane.com
SAILING
Manufacturers of Marine Self-Steering
Email: Scanmar@selfsteer.com Check our Website with over 5000 photos
www.selfsteer.com 45
SERIOUS SAILING EQUIPMENT 1 800 874 3671 | atninc@hotmail.com
www.atninc.com
Tacker
MasTcliMber
No more spinnaker pole
Climb UP your mast BY YOURSELF
gale sail
spinnaker sleeve
The Storm Jib that hanks OVER the furled Headsail
The safest, oldest proven spinnaker handling