Classic Passage

Cruising the Eastern Caribbean as the Pandemic Wears On

Here’s the latest cruising news from the Caribbean on testing, quarantining and masking down island By Bob Osborn

IT’S MID-JANUARY, AND MY WIFE BRENDA and I are anchored in Falmouth Harbor, Antigua, plotting our next move as we plan to head “down island.” Last season, moving from place to place was nearly impossible, and the rules for clearing in and out were constantly changing. In the absence of vaccines, quarantine was the norm so most cruisers stayed put for much of the season.

Last fall, I participated in the Salty Dawg Caribbean Rally from Hampton, VA to Antigua. With nearly 82 boats heading south and the bulk planning to make landfall in Antigua, a fleet dominated by many first timers who had decided that life was short and that they wanted to go south while they could. As the sponsor of the rally, the Salty Dawg Sailing Association went to great lengths to keep the fleet safe requiring that all participants show proof of vaccination, a decision that was widely supported by participants. This position proved to be wise since by the time the fleet arrived most islands had a vaccination mandate in place for all visitors. Months later, many businesses are still asking for proof of vaccination.

Here in Antigua and on other islands, life is fairly normal with masks mandatory both outside and indoors. Back in early November the Antigua government took the controversial position of requiring vaccination for all government employees and those involved in the

hospitality business, firing those who did not comply. Taking a hard line to reduce infection was important as the economy of Antigua, like so many other islands, is heavily based on tourism. They are receiving the benefit of this decision now as the marinas are packed to capacity and restaurants and hotels are busy. While those in colder climates struggle with finding a way to spend time in public during cold weather, here in the islands, where just about everything is done outdoors, in tropical breezes, life seems pretty normal and everyone is going about their business with little restriction.

While a negative Covid test is required upon arrival in all islands, at this writing, most now allow the less expensive rapid test as opposed to the lab-based PCR test that was the norm until recently. A few islands still require the more expensive PCR test, which might lead to some cruisers heading elsewhere for cost reasons as PCR tests can run upwards of $200-$250 per person.

Many cruisers, after enjoying the holidays here or back in the states, are now beginning to head to other islands, many making the daylight run to Guadeloupe. Fortunately, entry there is still as simple in Deshaies, as in the past; head to the T-shirt shop, pay a few euros and you’re good to go. In most cases, cruisers aren’t even being asked for their test results. Given the fear of breakthrough infection, even if it’s not particularly risky for healthy vaccinated people, many cruisers have a supply of rapid tests aboard so that they can check themselves, in advance of paying for a proctored test, the sort required for entry, as they don’t want to pay the $100US for the rapid test only to find that they must wait due to a positive result.

The general consensus with most cruisers that I have contacted is that they plan on more spending time in their favorite places so that they can avoid the complexity and expense of regular testing.

Guadeloupe is a popular destination with most clearing in at the small village of Deshaies and then moving on to Les Saintes, with its laid-back Mediterranean vibe and great French food. From there, some will opt to head to Dominica, known for great hiking, but many will choose to make the 100 mile run to Martinique, with its mix of bustling cities and quaint villages; it’s easy to spend a few months there without the complexities of testing before moving elsewhere.

For many cruisers visiting Martinique, clearing into St Pierre is a good first stop. From there

some move to the bustling capital city of Forte de France or, perhaps, continue on directly to the village of St Anne, with its expansive anchorage, a favorite spot for cruisers to hang out, some for the entire season. Nearby la Marin is a great place to provision and boat supplies are readily available.

All and all, as the pandemic hopefully moves into its final critical stage, life here in the Caribbean feels a lot like “old times” and there are hints that things are finally getting back to normal.

One thing for sure, based on the number of “first timers” that joined the Salty Dawg Rally last November, is that living through the last two years, with so much uncertainty, has caused many to reevaluate their lives and adopt the YOLO, you only live once, attitude. As they say, “you’ll never be any younger or any healthier so cast off the dock lines and go cruising”. dining, those of us that are here in the Caribbean are enjoying gentle trade winds, daily visits to the beach and those iconic sunsets that the tropics are known for.

So, if you have been dreaming of a tropical winter, now’s the time to begin planning in earnest for next season. And, speaking of planning, why not sign up to participate in the webinar series, more than 40 topics in all, that is being put on by Salty Dawg Sailing Association to help jump start your plans to head south next season. www.saltydawgsailing.org

BWS

As my friends up in New England are coping with single digit temperatures lamenting for the days when they were able to enjoy alfresco Bob and his wife Brenda have been spending winters south aboard their 47’ Aerodyne sloop, Pandora, for the last decade, most recently in the Eastern Caribbean. He is active with the Salty Dawg Sailing Association and serves as president, rally director and port officer to Antigua. Last November, he was awarded a medal, the Faithful and Meritorious Service, gold, by the Governor General of Antigua for his contribution to yachting in Antigua and Barbuda. He has kept a blog www.sailpandora. com for over a decade. He can be reached at robertosbornjr@gmail.com

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