Blue Water Sailing January 2019 by Blue Water Sailing

VOYAGING AROUND THE WORLD

BLUE WATER

SAILING WORLD CRUISING

NORTH ATLANTIC CROSSING CHARTER MALLORCA PANAMA CANAL

BLUE WATER BOATS

JEANNEAU SUN ODYSSEY 410 Januar y 2019

Â© Photography : Robin Christol

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{ CONTENTS }

16 16 Charter Notes

26 Blue Water Boats

A late season charter in Spain’s Balearic Islands introduced us to wonderful people, fine food and wine and a beautiful island by Erik Westgard

by George Day

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410

JANUARY 2019

Magnificent Mallorca

22 22 Classic Passage

Across the Pond and Back Again

The Atlantic Circle: with a variety of starting points and a multitude of destinations, the route is still determined by the weather by Bill Biewenga

30 30 Boat Show Preview

Miami Boat Show Preview 2019, February 14-18, 2019

DEPARTMENTS 6 8 12 34 38 43 44 46 4

Captain’s Log Blue Water Dispatches Bill Biewenga Offshore Chandlery World Sailing Adventures Brokerage Classifieds Broad Reaching-Andy Cross

Cover photo: Enjoying

a Sunsail charter in Maslinica, on the island of Solta, Croatia

BLUE WATER SAILING

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{ CAPTAIN’SLOG }

“Don’t You Think It’s…”

y wife Rosa and I have sailed many, many miles together as a couple, with our boys and with friends. Over the years and the miles, we’ve developed our routines, our signals, our style of sailing. One of the most important things we agreed on early was that for the safety of the boat and crew, we would decline to press too hard. I learned early on that when she said, “Don’t you think it’s time…” that I didn’t have to finish her sentence but I did have to put a reef in the mainsail. The act of reefing almost always has a pleasing effect on the boat’s motion and on the crew’s attitude. The noise of wind in the sails is reduced to more pleasant levels, the boat stands more upright and, often as not, the boat speed drops less than a knot if it drops at all. If you are letting the autopilot steer, as most of us do all the time when making a long coastal run or an offshore passage, then the autopilot will talk to you and, once you know its ways, it too will say, “Don’t you think it’s time…” And when you do shorten sail, you will see the wheel stop its gyrations as the autopilot struggles to steer and instead the wheel will clock back and forth in quarter turns, hardly working at all. Plus, you will see a discernable drop in the level of amps that the autopilot is drawing when you balance the sail plan and reduce the press of sail. And, the boat speed hardly will hardly drop at all. Before heading across the North Atlantic last summer on the Hanse 50 Maverick with my friend Steve and crew, Steve took the trouble to have a third reef point put into the mainsail. We were certainly glad he did. On a shakedown overnight cruise to nowhere that we took prior to setting off across the ocean, crewmember Henry realized right away that the issue with managing Maverick offshore was not trying to enhance boat speed, she has that in spades. “The issue we’re going to face,” he said, “is how do we slow this beast down!” That was certainly the case. Many a day and night, as the light, fast Hanse leaped off waves and her flat underbody slammed onto the next wave with a bone shaking shudder, someone down below who was supposed to be off watch and sleeping, would appear in the companion way, and say, “Don’t you think it’s time…” I was surprised by how much of the trip across the ocean was sailed with the third reef tied in. Yet, we often were sailing at eight and nine knots and averaged well over seven knots for the 17 day trip. In my book, that’s a pretty good average speed for a cruising boat and a cautious crew. So, when you hear, “Don’t you think it’s…” You’ll know what to do. 6

photo by Bill Kund

BLUE WATER

SAILING Volume 24, Number 1 Blue Water Sailing, LLC 747 Aquidneck Avenue, Suite 201 Middletown, Rhode Island 02842 - USA phone: 401.847.7612 • fax: 401.845.8580 web: www.bwsailing.com SUBSCRIBER HOTLINE 866-529-2921

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BLUE WATER SAILING

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{ CRUISINGDISPATCHES }

Five Tips for Line Handling in the Panama Canal

he Panama Canal is so beautiful and going under the Bridge of America was a surreal moment for me. When I volunteered as a line handler on a friend’s boat, I was excited. What a dream of an experience and opportunity. Here are my top five tips, tricks and everything you should know before you go! One: Be flexible. I was to be expected on board at 2:00 p.m. to meet their advisor for the canal entry on Tuesday. Monday at 4:00 p.m. this was changed to Tuesday at 6:00 a.m. I now needed to be aboard at 5:30 a.m. Don’t expect 8

by Tara Kelly

to be through the canal in a single day. Our trip took two days. Luckily, before dark the first day, we moored to a large rubber mooring ball in a flat calm section of Gatun Lake. We heard Howler monkeys but didn’t see any. Two: Pack light. Bring your foul weather jacket, hat, sunglasses, sunscreen and a change of clothes. In my opinion, wear closed toe shoes that are not slippery on the deck. Sailing gloves are a must! I used them and was sure glad I did. The lines run fast and having rope burns on your hands and fingers is not a pleasant experience. Three: You better be ready to

handle your lines and pay attention. If you think you are going to casually hold a line or will be throwing lines here and there, well that couldn’t be further from the truth. I would not recommend being a line handler if you have no boating experience, are not strong or don’t want to get your hands wet. This job is not for the weak or a novice. Four: Know your knots. If you don’t know how to tie a bowline it’s okay. Only four lines will need this and chances are the captain or advisor will assist you. You should, however, be comfortable with a clove hitch as this will be needed when the canal line handler throws the monkey fist to you; you need to tie the Monkey fist feeder line to the bowline in your on deck lines so the line hander can haul it up BLUE WATER SAILING

to the canal wall to make it fast. Five: Remember you’re a line handler, not the owner or captain. You will be given orders; remember this is not your boat and things will be done differently than you may do them on your boat. Leave your ego at the dock. HOW A TRANSIT WORKS You will be given an area on the boat, either bow or stern, port or starboard. This is the area you are responsible for managing your

line. Be aware that you may need to help out the line handler next to you. This is a team effort with each

crew cleating, pulling and watching the lines closely as the water in the lock rises or falls. Cleating

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January 2019

{ CRUISINGDISPATCHES }

securely is a must. Your adrenaline will be running high. We entered into the first set of locks and it all happened so fast. We were the last vessel to enter. A large ship in front, a tugboat in the middle and then us aboard a 43-

foot sailboat. After we entered, the monkey fists were thrown on deck. I quickly caught mine and tied it to my mooring line. I watched as the line went quickly up the wall. Being yelled at to give my land handler more line, I noticed my line

on deck only had six feet of line left. I rushed to secure the mooring line on the cleat. The line handler would have to use the monkey fist line, because he wasn’t getting anymore of mine! As we were finishing up on deck, the water began filling the lock quickly. Super strong currents jostled the boat and the water was spinning rapidly. Our advisor asked us, in Spanish, to loosen the lines on the bow. We both asked, “All the way off?” He said, “Si.” Not sure why he said this, we soon knew we should have listened to our better judgment because when we both untied the bow, the boat began to go hard to port and dangerously close to the canal wall. The boat was now almost sideways across the lock. We began pulling the lines in as quickly as we could to re-cleat the boat and to pull us out of danger. The captain had the engine on and the helm hard over, but the boat wasn’t moving. The starboard side BLUE WATER SAILING

was finally secured to the cleat and now we hauled on the port bow line. This was all done with some bleeding and bruising, all over a miscommunication. Damn, I really need to learn my Spanish! This was a close call and an eye opener that things can go wrong really fast. The next locks were much easier but still not without the need to pay attention. I was learning to watch my port line handler to make adjustments with my lines. This was getting a little easier. The following day was much easier as we were rafted up to another vessel. No more completing the monkey fist catch, line releasing and cleating. All that was needed was to throw the line to secure our vessels together and watch the fenders. This is an easier process. My suggestion is if you can raft to another commercial vessel and have them against the wall, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s much easier on your line handlers. January 2019

This was much more enjoyable and I was able to view the amazing locks and enjoy a very different experience. Also, this is big business that serves huge ships. I mean huge! Our advisors said the average ship

pays $1.5 million to go through and $38,000 just to add a shipâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name name to the list. I know my friends paid close to $1800.00, but it was so worth it, considering the other option is sailing around Cape Horn. BWS Tara Kelly is cruising with her husband aboard their Gemini catamaran. They have sailed from Hawaii to the U.S. and then down Central America to Panama.

{ BILLBIEWENGA }

@Laurie Warner

Tuning In WITHOUT Dropping Out

The boats on which we sail are not the only things that have evolved demonic speeds. The modern offshore communications that are now available are really stunning!

arly next week I’ll start to filter through my always-filled sea bag. The next delivery is rapidly coming up, and each passage is different. Some require an abundance of cold weather clothing. Others demand more bathing suits and sunscreen. For me, they all require that I update and re-initialize my InReach satellite tracking and communications gadget. The small, reliable and battery-operated comm device provides me with an inexpensive baseline of communications while I’m offshore. There are newer systems, faster systems, more comprehensive systems and certainly more expensive systems, but it’s a start. Where communications onboard goes from there is anyone’s guess, because the new Gunboat 55 catamaran I’ll be delivering to Florida has just finished sea tri12

als, and I haven’t been onboard yet. The communications system may very well be state of the art, but only time, experience and real world trials will tell if it stands up to the potential rigors of a December passage, heading south around Cape Hatteras. After all, the communications options today are myriad in number and stunning in options, but often enough new boats develop their own unique set of glitches. Tried and tested backup systems for the “latest and greatest” sometimes show their true value. Getting information onboard has never been easier with more choices laid out in front of us. But sometimes, those numerous choices can become almost overwhelming. What’s the fastest? Most reliable? Least expensive? How do the upfront costs compare to the usage costs? Can we still get weather information using older

technologies? How about installation costs and time lines. There are so many things to consider that it really can become mindboggling, and there isn’t enough space in this article to cover all of the issues. But we can at least get started with outlining some of the choices and point you towards more information. Happily enough, Navtex and weather fax are still available. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Navtex) For a low cost solution to getting weather maps onboard, years ago I even tested a small, battery operated portable Sony radio, using a battery powered active antenna, and interfaced with my laptop and Weather for Windows software. I was able to receive clear weather maps produced by the Ocean Prediction Center and transmitted 3,000 miles away! Yes, you can get weather maps onboard your boat for a few hunBLUE WATER SAILING

{ OFFSHORE }

dred bucks plus a laptop. (http:// www.opc.ncep.noaa.gov/Atl_tab. shtml) Of course there are more sophisticated, comprehensive and convenient ways to communicate, and they are accordingly somewhat more expensive. But they’re not prohibitively expensive any longer. VHF and SSB radios have also come a long way. Whether you’re interested in voice communications or text, HF radio will help you get in touch with the world, and the Gordon West Radio School (http://www. gordonwestradioschool.com) will help you get in touch with your radio. If you’re interested in using

your SSB, perhaps interfaced with a Pactor modem, to send and receive email, you will want to explore services offered by Sailmail (http:// www.sailmail.com). Make no mistake; having an

may be able to reach him on a ship to ship broadcast frequency and save yourself a great deal of anxiety. Learning how to use and maximizing the usefulness of that SSB radio still makes a lot of sense. Your life might depend on it. And now, SailMail is a certified application for the Iridium GO! Mobile Hotspot. Of course, we’re all used to picking up the phone, dialing a number and getting in touch with almost anyone, almost anywhere in the world. HF radios aren’t quite that simple. But satellite telephones are. On the lower cost end of the spectrum, Iridium (http://www.irid

Getting information onboard has never been easier with more choices laid out in front of us SSB onboard is still a critically valuable tool, whether you use it regularly or not. The ship that may someday come to your rescue doesn’t have your phone number, and you don’t have his, but you

AB-Marine.com

January 2019

ium.com) and Globalstar (http:// w w w. g l o b a l s t a r. com/) have approached satellite communications from slightly different perspectives. Iridium has a constellation of 66 satellites circling the globe providing worldwide coverage through their little portable handheld units. Now, Iridium provides WiFi connectivity through Iridium GO to your own Smartphone – anywhere on the planet – creating a hotspot for up to five Smartphones or tablets. (See: https://www.iridium.com//products/Iridium-GO. aspx?productCategoryID=1) Globalstar uses a smaller number of satellites to provide partial coverage of the globe. (For a Globalstar coverage map, see: http:// www.globalstar.com/en/index. php?cid=101&sidenav=85). You will see that the coverage in midAtlantic and mid-Pacific is sketchy at best. A few years ago, Globalstar had rather significant problems establishing and maintaining calls due to the fact that several of their first-generation satellites went out of service. Those seem to be behind them, however, and Globalstar has introduced a number of new devices and options including the ability to create remote hotspots and maintain connection via your Smartphone while off the grid. (https://www.globalstar. com/en-us/products/voice-anddata/sat-fi2). Utilizing Globalstar satellites, SPOT also continues to evolve into a more comprehensive, wide-ranging tracking and communications technology (http:// www.findmespot.com/en/index. php?cid=120). On numerous races and de14

liveries, I’ve had good luck with Iridium phones, whether using their voice services or sending and receiving data. They’ve been quite reliable and relatively inexpensive. Adding a fixed-mount marine antenna to the sat phone will increase connectivity and reliability. Whether using Globalstar or Iridium, you will need to go through a gateway, using a service provider. A sample of SPOT service plans can be found here: http:// www.findmespot.com/en/index. php?cid=122). There are several, relatively common providers, including Ocens (http://www.ocens.com/ Iridium-GO-P538.aspx) Stratos (http://www.stratosglobal.com), and many others. Ocens is popular with mid-sized and larger vessels, I’ve found, and they provide a number of services, including weather and oceanographic data that works well with their proprietary email and weather display software. Ocens not only provides the airtime, they also can provide a wide range of hardware options from a variety of manufacturers. Mazu communications system also uses the Iridium satellite system to provide true global coverage at a cost-effective price. Emails, SMS, positioning and routing and various weather forecasts can be routed directly to your iPhone or iPad through Mazu’s application, available at the Apple App Store. (See: https://www.mazu-marine. com/) Prices for the Mazu system – including service packages - can also be found on that site. BLUE WATER SAILING

As many of us discovered years ago, using the Internet offshore was not very practical due to the relatively slow speeds of the earlier generation Iridium or Globalstar handheld units. Iridium now provides a range of hardware options, including the Pilot, which begins to reach broadband speeds, enabling more practical access to the Internet. Similarly, INMARSAT’s Fleet Broadband enables access to the Internet at speeds up to 50 times faster than an Iridium Go. But, you pay for that speed with much higher connection costs. Fleet Broadband coverage does not quite cover the entire globe, but it does cover the most frequently crossed oceans of the world. (For coverage, see: http://www.inmarsat.com/about-us/our-satellites/ our-coverage) Fleet Broadband units are manufactured by Thrane & Thrane, Wideye, KVH and JVC among others. Of course, antenna size is a consideration when thinking about installing satellite communications on a relatively small vessel. The Iridium Pilot antenna for the OPenPort system is approximately 22 inches in diameter and 9-inches high, while the KVH TracPhone LTE-1’s antenna is about 13.5-inched by x 13 inches. Costs are certainly no less important. (See: https://www.kvh.com/ Satellite-and-Content-Services/ Satellite-Communications-Service/ mini-VSAT-Broadband-StandardAirtime-Plans/Fixed-Plans.aspx and other related sites.) Over time, January 2019

prices vary, although initial prices for the h a rd w a re r a n g e d from about $1,600 to well over $10,000 for various types, speeds and airtime packages. Keep in mind that while it used to cost almost $32 to send a low resolution photo via satellite communications, the cost is now down to less than $7. Speeds are higher, and operating costs are lower. It’s not all bad news, and things are changing quickly for the better. On the higher end of the communications market spectrum, KVH’s TracPhone V11-IP and V7IP and mini-VSAT seem to reign supreme. Connection speeds on these units are fast enough to enable video-teleconferencing! Rates will vary depending on the package that the user would like to purchase. They can be as low as $59 per month for 50 minutes of telephone time to as much as a thousand dollars or more per month for unlimited connection time, depending on the connection speed and amount of airtime that is required. Communications technology is changing quickly - too quickly to fully explain here. We all know that we have come a long way from jungle drums or smoke signals over the past few hundred years. But the fact that in a few decades our remote offshore communications have evolved from HF voice radio and Morse code to high speed video is certainly a stunning reality! BWS Bill Biewenga is a navigator, delivery skipper and weather router. His websites are www.weather4sailors.com and www.WxAdvantage.com. He can be contacted at billbiewenga@cox.net 15

{ CHARTERNOTES }

MAGNIFICENT

MALLORCA A late season charter in Spain’s Balearic Islands introduced us to wonderful people, fine food and wine and a beautiful island

ven after 17 charters, Europe and the Med are still a draw for us, as the ports are beautiful and the food and history are amazing. Thinking mostly of tapas we decided on Spain and in particular the Balearic Islands 100 miles off the coast of Barcelona. We had all the 16

Moorings 3900 moored in Port D'Andratx

right training paperwork in hand (IPC certificates from the ASA) and a core of interest. The best prices are in the shoulder season, so it was to be May or October. Published accounts suggested the season officially ended on October 31 and after some negotiations we got our charter to end on Halloween. The Moorings base is at Marina Naviera Balear, part of a massive harbor complex in Palma, Mallorca. There are lots of yachts and many flight options. Taxis are cheap and plentiful. We chose the Mirador Hotel, which has a rooftop patio, bar and is across the street from the marina. There is a good supermarket, mercado, behind the base one block and a bit north. You can take a taxi back to the boat or bring a cart with you from the marina. There is a lot to do in and around Palma. The stunning 12th century

cathedral marks the old town and is amazing when illuminated at night. This area can be reached after a quick walk around the harbor on a wellmaintained sidewalk. The maze of back streets have good choices in local and international cuisine. We liked Tast for tapas and Ambra for Italian food. We ate twice at Canblanc near the charter base which gets an “A” for harbor views and yacht club ambiance. English is widely spoken but a cheery “Hola” is appreciated. If you have half a day, take the wooden narrow-gauge railway from central Palma to Sóller. Lovingly maintained, the train and series of tunnels are a wonder of early 1900s engineering. Nestled in a valley, the town has a storybook atmosphere and features epic dining and shopping. It feels like a cross between Switzerland and Napa. You can take a wooden trolley from the town to the actual port of Sóller which is also a sailing destination. BLUE WATER SAILING

The chart briefing focuses on weather and calas (harbors). There is no tide to speak of and the area has “no unmarked hazards.” They are promoting a new app called Windy, which replaces, fortunately, the venerable Windguru. In the Med, the weather is really lovely, except when it is not. Then you must be safely tucked in someplace. One simple rule (which may or may not be written down): if it is blowing six on the Beaufort scale (30 knots,) you go into port or don’t go out. After a few months in the Med, we finally decided on this trip that the weather here is not as complicated as we thought; use the radar, common sense and a range of forecasts. The calas – the tiny harbors – are interesting. The base Manager, Oliver, says “there are 50 of them” and, indeed, one chart page (ES2-C13 in the NV Atlas Spain chart book supplied aboard) has 20 of them, each with the anchor symbol. The idea is you can zip in and anchor for lunch and a swim. The general harbor situation is best described as crowded. The local authorities have put in over 1,000 moorings recently, which seems a drop in the bucket compared to strong demand. We were told harbor berths are “no problem” this time of year. In fact, Palma, was very full all week, likely due to the fact that the charter fleets and locals were in port and not out sailing. The sailing area also includes Ibiza. Published routes include going all the way around Mallorca, and staying south. There are interesting harbors such as Cala Formentor up in the northeast, but these are a long way from Palma and there are not a lot of harbors of refuge on the northwest shore. Marinas in general here seem to belong to two operating entities. Ports IB is the cheaper of the two, and private yacht clubs (Club Nautico) have January 2019

the other concession. Reservations are online or you can call ahead. In all cases, the harbor people came to us when we arrived so we did not have to visit their offices. We got an excellent education on the tying up process for moorings: Use two separate dock lines and use both loops on the painter if available. On our cat, we were unable to cure the problem of the mooring ball rubbing on the hulls all night issue. We enjoyed the Moorings 3900 we chartered. I (but not my crew) prefer a small monohull given a choice. I decided the cat hull had the windage area of an aircraft carrier so was concerned about trying to Med moor in a tiny

harbor in 30 knots of crosswind. I was always happy to have a mooring ball securely tied to the boat. My crew was entranced by all the room in the boat and the well-lit saloon area. The fancy electric dinghy davit setup was a cross between luxurious and decadent. After a long discussion on weather, we decided to go to Port D’Andratx first. The descriptions were a bit over the top labeling the city home of the rich and famous. We used one of the online sites to check on berth prices, which turned out to be a whopping 116 Euros in late October. So, I let that proposed online booking (and 30 Euro convenience fee) expire. We got to the port and found a

Castles and cathedrals abound in Mallorca

{ CHARTERNOTES }

The crew plus The Moorings, Heather (middle) onboard the Moorings 3900; below, med mooring in Palma

single yellow with red numbers mooring ball on the starboard side going in. The excellent Graham Hutt guidebook says a 13 M yacht should use a white buoy. My crew was sure my choice

would be overturned. In a few minutes an orange dinghy appeared and the driver said â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is not possible. Please follow me.â&#x20AC;? We carefully followed him to the

larger mooring field on the other side of the channel. As we approached him at another orange buoy he held up the painter for us, making the sign of the cross with his other hand and

BLUE WATER SAILING

The trolley in Sóller, meandering the streets in Sóller

shouting “I have insurance.” This was worth a five Euro tip and made us laugh. Once ashore the books were right. We passed white tablecloth places on the waterfront promoting 30 Euro dinners, and saw empty tables and bored waiters. A block up from the harbor the family Italian place and a hamburger bar were both packed. We peeked into a classy wine and tapas shop and asked for some low-end local vintages, which were fine. Cava is always a safe bet. And we found a five for eleven Euro tapas special (sardines and calamari) with an awesome view at Roma. After a successful evening we marveled at the pretty lights overlooking the harbor. This is a great stop. The next day we made the long 30-mile sail from D’Andratx to the park island at Cabrera where we found an excellent natural harbor. Overlooking it is a cute castle and ashore is the Government Cantina. The bar was sleepy with a couple of dogs keeping us company but I had a local draft beer on the patio and felt like I was back in time. The park permit and mooring ball reservations web site is daunting but it is well worth it. The park islands otherwise restrict anchoring and are ringed with hiking trails; some require an organized tour. The weather was supposed to deteriorate. We called ahead to the nearby Club Nautico la Rapita marina and got a reservation. We headed out the next day right at noon, which was the best time for slight winds according to Windguru. That said, we were baffled by the image on the radar showing a front coming in. We put in one reef and half a jib and www.bwsailing.com

{ CHARTERNOTES }

ventured out. In a matter of minutes, we had gusts of 30 knots and driving rain and huge seas. We had too much sail up and managed to heave to for a bit before turning around. We waited a day for the front to Rochethrough Harbor, and Washington clear headed out again. 20

This time, la Rapita was full. I developed the idea to go back to Palma. Oliver was charming and did warn us it was full all week. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Back in, sure, we are super fullhow about tomorrow, how does tomorrow work for you?â&#x20AC;?

I decided on Porto Petro where Oliver suggested the town had more to offer than a marina in bad weather. Porto Petro is easy to find and had two mooring fields for us and room on the pier. The moorings were being taken up for winter storage as we arrived. BLUE WATER SAILING

cided to leave the boat for a day, as the trip back to Palma was to be 35 miles, according to Windy, with 30 knots and large seas on the nose. The next day was forecast to be a bit better. We went to the taxi stand and called the car rental place; they came and picked us up and we got an “automatic” car for around 90 Euros for the day. The crew had a long list of places to see. The Caves of Drach were charming. The dining hall has authentic USA kid food, hot dogs and frozen pizza, be careful. The crew were thrilled by the Pearl Factory aka House of Majorica nearby, overlooking Portocolom. It has a proper café. We drove up a steep hill to the beautiful monastary Santuari de Sant Salvador, which is now also a hotel and bar. The trip back to Palma featured mountainous wind driven seas, and 22 knots on the nose. I was reminded of perilous voyages around Cape Horn but the powerful twin engines could be adjusted to a reasonably comfortable pace. All in all, this is a great sailing area; there is a lot to see and do, and the lovely people and food make it all the better. BWS Erik Westgard is a writer and contributor to Blue Water Sailing. He takes his family on a charter every year.

Moored in front of Sóller; below, the harbor of Cabrera

You can stay for about 30 Euros and there was an extra charge for a shower card. The town is adorable and there was a supermarket very nearby. We found an excellent dinner at Es Bergant where the seafood was amazing. As weather experts now, we deJanuary 2019

{ CLASSICPASSAGE }

ACROSS THE POND

AND BACK AGAIN

ith 41 transatlantic passages under my keel, I can safely say, “been there, done that,” and happily enough, I’d be glad to do it again. Whether it’s been north to south, south to north, east to west or west to east, there have been a wide variety of starting points, destinations, routes and memories along the way. It has provided a virtual treasure trove of experiences, and the people and places have become the real jewels in that treasure box. Those accomplishments were borne on the back of how we played the weather as the general routes where determined by start22

The Atlantic Circle: with a variety of starting points and a multitude of destinations, the route is still determined by the weather by Bill Biewenga ing point, destination and overall climatology. The general route was then modified as we made our way across the Atlantic, based on real time meteorology and the forecasts that were presented to us. Sailors who spend some time studying the weather patterns in the North Atlantic, quickly realize that the subtropical high-pressure system that generally exists between 25 degrees N and 35 degrees N represents a region that often is

beset by relatively light winds, associated with the North Atlantic High Pressure System. North of that high pressure, migratory low pressure systems will swirl their way across the North Atlantic, spinning in a counter-clockwise direction and accompanied by a variety of fronts that separate cold and warm air masses. South of the high pressure system we find the trade winds. Different seasons provide us with different mean BLUE WATER SAILING

average locations and strengths for the various systems as they move seasonally, as well as daily in a constantly evolving situation. Overall route planning is initially determined by an understanding of the “normal” positioning of the various weather features as well as an understanding of how and where the currents are located. Regardless of where you start your Atlantic circle passage, your most efficient route will be determined initially by long term climatology and modified by the real time conditions that you encounter. Sailboats departing from New England often begin their passages from Newport, RI or Camden, ME. Of course there are many variations on that, but those are two of the most popular jumping off points. If heading to the UK or northern Europe, sailors are often well served by heading first in a southeasterly direction, hooking up with the Gulf Stream and taking advantage of that positive current heading east. Not only will they have warmer weather accompanying the warm current, but also by staying out of the cold waters to the north they may also find more consistent wind. Winds to the north are often light aloft in the spring due to the formation of a stagnant marine layer of air in the presence of warm air over cold water. When low pressure systems migrate from the northern U.S. and southern Canada towards Europe, they often bring gales further to the north. So winds that exJanuary 2019

ist along the great circle from New England and towards northern Europe often vacillate between too little and too much and are further “enhanced” by frequent dense fog. Farther to the south, along the Gulf Stream, winds can also be brisk from time to time, but as forecasts imply heavy breeze, it’s easier to avoid problems by heading a bit further south, closer to or into the subtropical high where winds are often lighter. The advantages of sunshine and warm, favorable winds are the icing on the cake presented by the Gulf Stream as sailors head east in the spring. Passagemakers starting from farther south, such as the Chesapeake Bay, Charleston or Florida may want to consider heading to Bermuda before embarking on their passage to northern Europe. From a weather standpoint, it’s right on the way. Going on a more direct route from those departure points risks running into the light

winds of the North Atlantic subtropical high pressure system. From ports in southern Florida and the Caribbean, sailors on a direct route to northern Europe will likely encounter headwinds for much or even the entire trip if starting from ports well to the south, rather than enjoying the prevailing westerlies found north of the high. From the Caribbean, I would still suggest heading to Bermuda first before gradually heading towards Europe on a route that goes north of the high pressure. The extra distance incurred will easily be offset by the time, effort and risk to equipment presented by beating against the prevailing northeasterlies. For those sailors heading to the Mediterranean from the U.S., a stop in the Azores may be ideal. Whether coming from the northeastern U.S. or ports further south, the great circle route from Bermuda to the Straits of Gibraltar

{ CLASSICPASSAGE }

Custom House Bermuda

runs right through the Azores. At times winds can be light along this route, so stops in Bermuda and the Azores will allow you to top off fuel tanks and re-provision. A stop in Horta on the island of Faial is almost a rite of passage, and the vino verde available there is only one of the many temptations. Fuel is available on the dock next to the Customs and Immigration office, and make sure you bring paints to leave your mark on the docks in the port. It’s not uncommon for people taking their boats to Europe to spend a year or two there. There are certainly plenty of great places to go while in either northern or southern Europe. There are also many well qualified boatyards where boats can be stored for the winter, bottoms re-painted, or have other work done. If, at the end of your stay in 24

Europe you are ready to take your boat back to the U.S. in the fall, leaving early enough to have a layover in the Canary Islands will help you avoid a winter departure but still leave the Canaries at a favorable time of year. For a fall or winter trip across the Atlantic, I would suggest leaving northern Europe in September to arrive in the Canaries in October or November, well after the peak of tropical storm season, which is in September. I’ve taken boats in the fall across the North Atlantic on the northern route, north of the high pressure system, but that entails beating for much of the passage as well as doing your best to avoid the adverse (eastward flowing) Gulf Stream. The southern route, on the other hand, will provide you with downwind sailing and more options about how best to spend your winter – either head-

ing directly home or spending the winter in the Caribbean. The track across the North Atlantic from the Canaries is often thought to run along 21 degrees N latitude. That’s an average and idealized route that may or may not provide you with the conditions you’re looking for. Often, more wind is found a little further south, away from the high pressure system and a bit deeper into the trades. Only time and forecast maps will tell, so watch the weather maps as well as your barometer, and head south as needed. Of course, you can begin your journey back to the U.S. in the spring, as well, and if your goal is to return to New England, an early summer return allows for summer cruising in Maine. It should also be mentioned that taking a southern route from the Canaries to North American in the summer can BLUE WATER SAILING

present some problems with tropical systems that tend to start to form along that route beginning in July. By September, the busiest month of hurricane season is upon us and caution and a very watchful eye would be encouraged. Whether doing ‘round the world races, setting a speed record with Rich Wilson from NY to Melbourne, Australia or bringing multihulls up from South Africa, I’ve crossed the tropics numerous times in September. It can be done safely, but risks of tropical depressions or storms are raised throughout the hottest months of the year. Watch the weather. Regardless of where you’re

Lanzarote, Canary Islands

coming from on your way to Europe and home again, the events will provide you with a treasure trove of experiences to last a lifetime. Plan well, and enjoy them all. Europe is “just over there”, and there are more reasons to go than not. It just requires the

doing of it, and you’ll be happy to say “been there, done that”, as well. BWS Bill Biewenga is a professional sailor, navigator, weather guru and prolific author who has sailed more than 400,000 miles offshore.

Porto, Azores January 2019

{ BLUEWATERBOATS }

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410 by George Day

BLUE WATER SAILING

ight after last fall’s Annapolis sailboat show, I had the opportunity to sail the brand new Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410 on the Chesapeake Bay. It was a beautiful morning and the breeze was strong enough to give us a fair evaluation of how the boat performs under power and sail. I am a former Jeanneau owner and have sailed just about every Jeanneau model sold in the U.S. since the early 1980s, so it is always fun to see a brand new model and get a feel for what the company has done to innovate and improve the now venerable Sun Odyssey line. The 410 is the little sister of the new 440 and 490 that were introduced in late 2017 and early 2018. The boats are the first three in what I believe is the seventh generation of Sun Odysseys and thus have a lot of history behind them. There are several features in the new generation that are markedly different from the last generation. First, the cockpit and aft side decks have been completely reconfigured into the what is called the “walk-around cockpit.” The side decks slope aft as they run alongside the cockpit coaming until they reach the level of the cockpit floor right next to the helm stations. This means that instead of climbing over the cockpit coaming to go on deck, you simply walk around behind the helms and walk unobstructed up the side decks. This innovation is so useful and so obvious, it is remarkable to me that no designer or builder thought of it before now. A second innovation that you’ll notice as you walk forward on the side decks is the “cathedral rig” that has been put into the boat. The spar and boom sections are January 2019

normal aluminum extrusions, but the standing rigging is a bit different. The side stays have been set up with two chain plates each instead of one. The lower stays run to the sides of the cabin while the cap shrouds run down to the gunnel; this leaves an opening between the stays that allows a person to walk forward without ducking under a lower stay or pole dancing around them. For convenience and safety, this makes a lot of sense. A third innovation in the 410 is the abandonment of jib sheet cars and tracks on the side decks. Instead of adjusting the angle of the sheet to either close the leech or open it, the sheet angle is controlled with a floating ring that can be trimmed in three dimensions with control lines that lead aft to the cockpit. The ring can be eased upward to reduce the sheet angle or haul downwards to tighten the angle and thus tighten the leech. This is a rig that is used on many high tech racing boats and offshore racers since it is so light, simple and infinitely adjustable. This is a perfect adoption of high-tech racing technology to a pure cruising boat.

The fourth innovation that stands out is the bow configuration. The bow itself has a slight aft or negative angle that looks modern and rakish. The bowsprit is built right into the bow and is quite long for a cruising boat. This provides room for a centerline bow roller right in the sprit and a firm place to tack down running and reaching sails. With a small jib and large mainsail sail plan, most owners will also have an asymmetrical spinnaker on a top-down furler for broad reaching and running and or a Code 0 for beam reaching. And, if it were me, I’d also have a spinnaker pole for running wing and wind downwind. This bow looks very modern and I have to say very French. That’s for good reason. The 410 was designed by Marc Lombard who is one of France and Europe’s leading designers of racing boats and performance cruisers. His boats always look fast, purposeful and cutting edge. The 410 is all of that. With a fulllength hull chine, the negative angle bow and sprit, a flat sheer line and full hull sections, particularly in the forward sections, the design is very cutting edge.

PERFORMANCE We jumped on the boat at a marina in Annapolisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spa Creek and motored out into the open harbor formed by the mouth of the Severn River. It was a day of broken clouds and moderately light wind typical of the Chesapeake in the fall. We hoisted the slab reefed main and then rolled out the jib. All lines are handled easily from the cockpit and the winches are placed so the helmsman can do most of the trimming if necessary. With the sails trimmed for a close reach we gathered steam and sailed out into the bay. The 410 slipped along very sweetly and the helms were light to the touch. Once we had cleared the shoals in the mouth of the river, we hardened up and adjusted the floating sheet rings to close the slot a bit in the light air without choking off

the top of the jib. The boat sailed at about 42 degrees to the true wind and when we threw her through a couple of tacks found that the tacking angle was a reliable 85 degrees or better. We eased sheets for a while to see how she would do on a close reach and then a broad reach. In the light stuff, the close reach maintained some apparent wind and the 410 really sailed nicely and at good speed. Farther off the wind, she slowed a bit as you would expect. She would need at least a steady eight to 10 knots to gather her skirts and perform downwind without a spinnaker. The 410 has twin rudders mounted well outboard and angled slightly outward. The rudder foils are large and give the helm a very positive feel while still making steering the boat finger-tip light.

We didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the breeze to put the twin rudder design to a real test, but I have sailed many similar designs and can vouch that when the breeze is up, when the boat is sailing at hull speed and even surfing at much higher speeds, the twin rudders make the boat feel so sure footed that it is like sailing on rails. The ergonomics of the cockpit are set up for those who are steering and trimming to be aft while those not busy sailing can stretch out on the bench seats forward. The centerline table is large and will seat six for alfresco dining. The stern folds down to make a huge swimming and sunning platform. Under the cockpit sole, there are two lazarette lockers for storage. We dropped the sails as we motored back up Spa Creek. The Yanmar diesel hummed away under the cockpit and was audible but not too noisy, even at high revs. The twin rudders steer easily and there is no prop wash vibration to speak of. We had to back the 410 into a very tight slip, and this was done fairly easily. If twin rudders have one draw back it lies in maneuverability at slow speeds in reverse. Still, we got her moored without any issues. The 410 is a big 41-footer and sails like a bigger boat. She likes to be sailed upright and will find her best angle of heel upwind when the hard chin meets the water at about 12 degrees of heel. The 410 is fast and has a rig that, with a downwind sail mounted forward, can adapt to a wide range of wind angles and conditions easily with all control lines managed in the cockpit. Like the new 440 and 490, the new 410 combines excellent sailing performance with an ease of handling that cruising couples will really appreciate. BLUE WATER SAILING

LIVING ABOARD The 410 definitely feels larger than her actual size down below. Working with designer Jean-Marc Piaton, Lombard and the Jeanneau team have created an interior that is bright, filled with natural light and very roomy. The saloon has the dinette to starboard seating four and has a table that folds out so two more people can dine while sitting on the short settee to port. The galley is to port amidships where it is right in the very center of the action. This will be a good seagoing galley as it is right over the boat’s center of gravity and has good places to brace a hip or butt while working with both hands. The sink is aft and on the centerline where it will drain well on both tacks. The forward end of the galley has the large top-loading fridge and a built-in shelf for the microwave oven. The forward master cabin has a double berth, large en-suite head and shower and plenty of hanging and storage room for clothes. Un-

January 2019

der the berth there is a lot of space for spare parts and general provision storage for those cruising to far off oceans. The twin after cabins are tucked in under the cockpit and are spacious considering this is a 41-foot boat. Part of the reason for this is the extra interior volume provided by the hard chines. For those intending to live aboard for a while, it might make sense to buy the boat with the two-cabin option and leave the port aft cabin space open for storing sails, mounting a genset or adding a water maker. You could even put a small workbench here as well. The joinery of the new 410 is Euro modern and the boat we sailed had teak flavored Alpi Wood veneers on all bulkheads, cabinets and doors. This touch gives the boat a touch of old Jeanneau classic feel while still saying “modern” right out loud. Having owned a reasonably modern Jeanneau and having sailed it some 15,000 miles and

lived aboard for weeks at a time, I have grown to appreciate the thought, design and care that the company puts into their boats. The new 410 is not your grandad’s classic cruiser. Instead it is a thoroughly modern couple’s cruising boat that sails very well, is commodious and comfortable below deck and is filled with true design innovations that make every hour on the water better for all on board. BWS

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410 LOA 42’6” LWL 37’7” Beam 13’10” Drafdt(shoal) 5’2” Draft (stnd.) 7’0” Displ> 17,161 lbs. Sail area 830 sq. ft. Water 140 gals Fuel 58 gals Engine 40 hp. Yanmar www.jeanneauamerica.com

{ BOATSHOWPREVIEW }

Modern Monohulls on Display

Miami Boat Show Preview 2019 February 14-18, 2019 MIAMI IN FEBRUARY HAS MANY ATTRACTIONS FOR SAILORS FROM AROUND THE WORLD AND IN the middle of the month the whole city turns into one of the largest in-the-water boat shows anywhere. The Miami International Boat Show, put on by the National Marine Manufacturer’s Association, is a combined power and sail show that is based on Virginia Key, which is the key that links Key Biscayne to the main land. At the same time, the Miami Yacht Show will stage a giant boat show in downtown Miami that features superyachts from builders around the world. In the winter edition of Multihulls Quarterly, published by Blue Water Sailing, we offered a show preview of some of the multihulls that will be there in February. Here we take a look at the cruising monohulls.

BENETEAU

The world’s largest builder of recreational boats, Group Beneteau, will have three of its well-known brands at the show with the Beneteau sailboats leading the sailing fleet. The flagship Beneteau 62 will be one of the largest sailboats in the show and will be accompanied by the 55.1, 51.1, 38.1 and the new First line of smaller racer cruisers. The exciting news from Beneteau is the launch of the new 30.1 at the Dusseldorf (Germany) show in January. We’ll look forward to sailing this new design when the first boat appears in North America.

BLUE WATER SAILING

CATALINA

Designed and built in the U.S., Catalina is one of Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic sailboat builders and was once the largest sailboat builder in the world. While the Great Recession tilted the playing fields heavily toward the government backed French builders and made life tough for American builders, Catalina survived and is now steadily building high quality production boats from 31 to 44 feet. Their latest successful launch in the Catalina 425, which is a complete update of the Catalina look and is also a real statement on American-built quality and sailing performance.

JANUARY 2019

DUFOUR

One of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest boat builders and still one of the most popular brands in France and the rest of Europe, Dufour is under new ownership and is working to build visibility and sales in North America. Dufour has two lines, Grand Large and Exclusive. Grand Large is the main cruising and racer-cruising line and is both innovative and very modern. The new 520 is a modern classic with huge interior volume, a giant cockpit and a powerful rig. If you are coming to Miami to look at modern cruising boats, you should stop by the Dufour stand to see what sets the brand apart from the pack.

{ BOATSHOWPREVIEW }

ELAN

This Slovenian builder had embarked on a plan to create some of the most strikingly different and innovative cruising boat to be seen in the market in many years. The GT line of racer-cruisers sports long bow sprits, aggressively chined hulls, interesting and unusual looking cabin tops. The boats sail fast and close to the wind and have the ability to almost plane in stiff reaching conditions. Unique in the cruising fleet, the GT line from Elan is turning heads in Europe and North America. The Impression line offers more traditional modern cruisers that compete favorably with the other well-known brands in the production fleet.

GRAND SOLEIL

Grand Soleil builds high end, luxury semi-production cruisers that once were compared to Swan and Baltic. While the latest generation of designs is more in the mix with the general production fleet, Grand Soleil still offers owners fine sailing designs that have more wood, more luxury and more high end yacht style than most. The company builds two boats in the Long Cruise line at 46 and 52 feet. These are true blue water boats that will compete in quality with custom yachts. The GS line runs from 34 to 58 feet and offers great value in modern, fine sailing production racer-cruisers. Grand Soleil is all about great quality and ultimate value. ISLAND PACKET YACHTS

Under the new ownership of Leslie and Darrell Allen, the IPY brand has been reborn and is thriving in its old factory in Florida. Like Catalina, IPY is a classic American boat building company that creates true cruising boats for families who want American style, American values and American quality baked into their cruising boats. The Allens launched a new 36 footer at the Annapolis show last fall and sold a bunch of them right in the show. Look for them in Miami and enjoy climbing aboard a true, blue water cruising boat.

BLUE WATER SAILING

JEANNEAU

OYSTER

Oyster Yachts are proper yachts in the old fashion sense of the word. The boats are built for blue water sailing and thus have moderate displacements, sensible center cockpits, large but easily managed sailing rigs, often with a cutter configuration, and plenty of protection for the crew while on deck. Down below, the master cabin is aft with its own head, desk and seating. The saloon has what is called the “raised deck saloon” which means there is a huge amount of headroom. The galley is in the companionway running aft to the master suite and is one of the best offshore galleys you will find. The quality that is built into every Oyster is way above average and accounts for the price of the boats, which is also above average.

The sister company to Beneteau at Group Beneteau, Jeanneau has become one of the largest builders of cruising sailboats in both Europe and America. Many of the boats sold into the Americas are built in a factory in South Carolina by American workers. Jeanneau builds boats from 31 to 64 feet and many of them were designed by French naval architect Philippe Briand, so they are both sweet sailing boats and handsome in a modern way. The new 410, reviewed in this issue, is a slight departure since it was designed by Marc Lombard and is slightly more futuristic than some of its siblings. Jeanneau will have a good cross-section of boats in Miami and is always an interesting booth to visit.

SEAWARD

Seaward is part of the Island Packet family owned by the Allens. The pocket cruisers are salty little boats with offshore capabilities. But, with their unique swing keels and retractable rudders and super shallow draft, they are also perfect for gunkholing in some of the country’s best cruising grounds where the water tends to get thin, like the west coast of Florida where they are

JANUARY 2019

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www.selfsteer.com 45

{ BROADREACHING }

by ANDYCROSS

Winds of Change

Looking towards the post-refit horizon

ain pelted the hood of my black Musto jacket while sliding the companionway hatch closed. Fiddling with the last finishing touches on Yahtzee after a splendid weekend of cruising—a mini shakedown of sorts—I began to walk away but stepped down the dock a few paces to look at our beloved 1984 Grand Soleil 39. With a gleam in my eye, I took a moment to think about the immense amount we have accomplished on the boat over the past year since hitting the cruising pause button in Seward, Alaska. Even now, the scratched out to-do list that has taken up residence on the nav desk is sometimes hard to believe. Needing to fill the kitty and give Yahtzee the love she required to keep cruising for the long haul, we started her proper refit and refill with lists upon lists, accompanied, rightly so, with lots of hopes and dreams. Common wisdom told this sailor that two main components would be necessary to properly fit-out an already sound 46

vessel for extended cruising: money and time. Money to buy gear we needed and wanted, and time to install it all and get the boat ready for sea again. Of course, the truth became far more complicated than simply money and time. It unexpectedly involved a deep look into who we are and want to be as sailors and where we want to go. Many readers of this column over the years know that we are full-on live-in-the-moment type folks. We generally don’t make plans too far in advance because experience has shown us that they’ll likely change a million times. It has been our style and has suited us well. But now that we’ve finished a full year living in one place, have completed a re-power and have a new suit of sails on the way, among many other things, we’re starting to get an itchy keel and can’t help but turn a weather eye towards future plans. A winter’s worth of small projects is going to go faster than we think and we’ll soon be ready to leave Seward come late spring. Our “plan” then is to explore more of Alaska for the summer

before turning south towards warmer climes. Finally. We’re excited. After living and cruising in the Pacific Northwest and Alaska for over six years and loving it, the winds of change are blowing me and our family towards new horizons. Yes, it is time for our crew to say goodbye to northern latitudes and chase a bit of summer. And it is also time for me to say goodbye to this space I’ve been given in Blue Water Sailing magazine. Having the ability to share my stories here over the years has been a great privilege and I hope you have enjoyed following the adventure as much as I’ve enjoyed living and sharing it. Thank you and fair winds. Andy, along with wife Jill and sons Porter and Magnus, are currently cruising Alaska aboard their Grand Soleil 39 Yahtzee. Follow their adventures at www.sailingyahtzee.com/ BLUE WATER SAILING

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