Islands march april 2016

WHERE TO GO IN

THE SKIP OMS T CUS E LIN

March

P. 1 8

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC A trio of hotels debut on the north coast.

P. 58

Enthusiast Travel Since 1981

June G A L A PAG O S Blue-footed boobies and giant tortoises are calling.

P. 24

July JAMAICA Nab a front-row seat to the hottest music fest.

Dream Trips Bora Bora // Australia

P. 20

Fiji // Puerto Rico New Zealand // Alaska P. 62

SLEEP IN THIS

Clifftop Villa

SUNBATHE ON A

Private Beach SWIM WITH

Turtles and Angelfish

I T’S W H AT’S

I T’S W H AT’S

I T’S W H AT’S

NEW NOW N EXT IN ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS

THE PLACE TO

BE

AND

BE

SEEN ®

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The newest Sandals in Jamaica—Sandals Ochi Beach Resort—is a five-star Luxury Included resort that’s trendy when you want it to be, private when you don’t. It has Jamaica’s hottest new beach club, 11 bars—including the Caribbean’s first Speakeasy—and 16 totally on-trend restaurants. It’s exciting and it’s happening. But for those who prefer a more serene escape, the other side of Sandals Ochi offers unsurpassed luxury. True romance spans over a hundred acres of lush tropical gardens at the elite Butler Village, the epitome of privacy. Best of all, it’s all included. All unlimited. All the time. Sandals Ochi—the most happening place is happening now.

O CH O R I OS, J A M A I C A SANDALS.COM

•

1-80 0 -SAN DALS O R CALL YO U R TR AVEL PRO FESSI O N AL

Share Your #NoWorryMoment @ SandalsResorts Sandals ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an afiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide representative of Sandals Resorts.

S P E C I A L P R O M OT I O N A L F E AT U R E

I M A G E C R E D I T : ( C E N T E R ) T H E R I T Z - C A R L T O N , G R A N D C A Y M A N ( T O P ) C A Y M A N I S L A N D S D E PA R T M E N T O F T O U R I S M

TREAT YOURSELF TO THE LAP OF LUXURY IN THE

O

fering calm seas and unspoiled beaches, in addition to ďŹ ve-star dining venues and world-class resorts, travelers seeking a luxurious getaway this season, can choose the scenic Cayman Islands. This spring, visitors are encouraged to experience the best of what this Caribbean paradise has to ofer from exceptional hotels and dive resorts to an array of restaurants featuring delectable cuisine prepared by world-renowned chefs and emerging talent alike.

Comprised of three unique islands, --Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac and Little Cayman-- this multi-faceted destination is also convenient and hassle-free for travelers with nonstop ights available from major U.S. cities including New York City, Dallas, Atlanta, Miami, and more. Capped of with its warm “Caymankindâ€? hospitality, which is all about embracing the joy in life through shared experiences and always being compassionate to others, there’s never been a more obvious choice for travelers seeking an unforgettable luxury escape.

PREMIER ACCOMMODATIONS With a variety of accommodations for visitors, the Cayman Islands ofers an unparalleled selection of upscale resorts, hotels, condos and villas to meet all traveler’s needs and desired comforts.

I M A G E C R E D I T: L E S O L E I L D ’ O R

Straddling the North Sound of Grand Cayman and Seven Mile Beach, the elegant Ritz-Carlton, Grand Cayman features guest rooms and suites with private balconies boasting panoramic views of the turquoise sea. The resort is also home to the water-inspired La Prairie Spa, ďŹ ve decadent restaurants including Chef Eric Ripert’s critically-acclaimed Blue, along with an impressive tennis center and Greg Norman-designed golf course. For guests searching for a premier resort experience, The Westin Grand Cayman Seven Mile Beach Resort & Spa and Grand Cayman Marriott Beach Resort are also located on the world-famous Seven Mile Beach and provide visitors with innovative spa and wellness experiences, best-in-class dining and entertainment and convenient access to the Cayman Islands’ must-see attractions.

Adventurous travelers seeking an of-the-beaten-path experience without forfeiting luxurious amenities and Caymankind hospitality can choose Le Soleil D’ Or, the Cayman Islands’ only beachside farm-to-table destination located in scenic Cayman Brac. Guests can relish in the barefoot elegance of the property, which features quaint cottages and villas with private pools and beach access. Visitors can also indulge in the fresh farm-to-table cuisine sourced from the property’s 20-acre organic farm located on a limestone bluff offering breathtaking views of the property.

Divers looking for the perfect underwater vacation should look no further than the Cayman Islands. Renowned as the birthplace of recreational diving, all three islands ofer exceptional accommodations for diving and snorkeling enthusiasts like Cobalt Coast in West Bay and Compass Point in East End. In addition to both properties providing oceanfront accommodations, divers can revel in a selection of packages sure to please both novice and experienced divers.

Ňş

Boasting a myriad of dining experiences and more than 225 delectable restaurants to choose from, the Cayman Islands is a gourmand’s dream destination for sipping, savoring and of course, soaking up the Caribbean sun. With trendy five-star venues and unforgettable cuisine prepared by James Beard Award Winners, the Cayman Islands is rightfully heralded as “the Culinary Capital of the Caribbean.�

Travelers opting to expand their cultural horizons can explore the deep-rooted celebrated sites of the destination from the unique art found at the National Gallery of the Cayman Islands, to discovering the country’s rich past at the oldest existing building on-island, Pedro St. James Castle. Regardless of the site, history bufs and art enthusiasts will delight in the plethora of memorable and insightful cultural experiences available on-island.

For more information on traveling and planning a vacation to the Cayman Islands, please visit www.caymanislands.ky.

I M A G E C R E D I T : C A Y M A N I S L A N D S D E PA R T M E N T O F T O U R I S M

THERE IS SO MUCH TO EXPLORE ON OUR THREE BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS. ( IT’S OKAY, THERE’S ALWAYS TOMORROW. )

Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman GRAND CAYMAN

LITTLE CAYMAN CAYMAN BRAC ONLY 1 HOUR FROM MIAMI

FIND YOUR CAYMANK

ND

www.caymanislands.ky

MAR APR

Contents

18 48

GET HERE

LIFE HERE

STAY HERE

CHEAT SHEET

16

38

56

69

Discover

Food Remix

New Now Next

How to Get High

An app to clear customs, new hiking and biking tours along Italy’s coast and five books we’re curling up with right now.

18

Sample the world’s soups, from fish stew in Zanzibar to a ramenwonton mashup in Japan.

40

The latest resort openings, plus where to dine on a meteorite.

58

Live the Life

Cruising

Altitude-wise, that is. Learn to pilot a paraglider, hike the highest peak on each continent and cruise to the North and South poles.

69

Sail Alaska this summer, and a trio of voyages to Tahiti.

60

How to Do a Keys Road Trip (But Ditch the Car!)

Best of the Caribbean Guests once exchanged shark teeth for drinks in Jamaica, and more fun facts about the island that readers picked as best for all-inclusives.

20

Travel Tales You’re hiking in Mexico, lose most of your money and you’re starving. What happens next?

Hopefully this.

22

She left her former life working for Ivana Trump and moved to St. John to help save shelter dogs.

42

Move To The first drink to mix up in your new Barbados kitchen: the island’s specialty, rum punch.

44

My Island

Splurge-Worthy Resorts Glamping in Australia, an overwater bungalow in Bora Bora, a luxe Alaskan lodge — plus three more places to blow that tax refund.

62

Who needs a convertible in the Florida Keys? Not you. Just go by boat, bike or seaplane.

70

Photo Tips Both expert photographers and iPhone novices alike will love these photo-editing apps.

71

40

Galapagos

You can order a pastechi from this fifth-generation Aruban, but he’ll never tell you what’s in the dough.

46

With tourism exploding, this archipelago is at a crucial turning point. Can we save the fragile ecosystem we’re so eager to explore?

24

Bimini

COVER

A development boom means big changes for this 9-square-mile Bahamian island.

48

This is just one villa at Laucala, a private-island resort in Fiji. Read why you need to go now on p. 64.

Photo by: Jason Busch/ courtesy Laucala Island resort

6 ISLANDS

APRIL

GO BIG WITH $1,800 LIMITLESS

RESORT CREDIT

This is more than a vacation. This is your all-access pass to the greatest feeling on earth. And at the allinclusive Hard Rock Hotels of Mexico and the Dominican Republic, we serve it up daily with up to $1,800 Limitless Resort Credit* you can use for golf, spa, tours, and more. Book now, and never look back.

®

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR , TRAVEL GROUP

GROUP PUBLISHER

Jennifer Ceaser

Laura Walker

jennifer.ceaser@bonniercorp.com

laura.walker@bonniercorp.com

SENIOR EDITOR SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR COPY EDITOR EDITORIAL INTERN CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS

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EDITORIAL Rebecca Kinnear Cami Miller Carrie Riles Danielle Zeits Jad Davenport, Sunshine Flint, Amanda Jones, Jen Judge, Heidi Mitchell, Brooke Morton, Sarah Sekula, Ann Vanderhoof, Mat Villano ART Jennifer Pileggi Lori Barbely Zach Stovall, Jon Whitle ADVERTISING Paula Iwanski, Advertising Director, 407-571-4605; paula.iwanski@bonniercorp.com Kelly Freygang, 407-571-4743; kelly.freygang@bonniercorp.com Julie Kitredge, 813-877-6959; julie.kittredge@bonniercorp.com Jef Mondle, 760-419-5898; jef.modle@bonniercorp.com Debbie Anderson, 808-739-2200; debbieanderson@dmhawaii.com Raquel Chilson, 407-571-4662; raquel.chilson@bonniercorp.com Jef Williams, 407-571-4787; jefrey.williams@bonniercorp.com Melissa Tone, 407-571-4588; melissa.tone@bonniercorp.com

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Michelle Doster Kelly Kramer Weekley Julia Arana, Jennifer Remias Sheri Bass

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ALL DAY. ALL NIGHT. ALL INCLUDED HRHALLINCLUSIVE.COM *$1,800 Limitless Resort Credit based on a 7-8 night consecutive stay per room. Bookings of 3 nights receive $500, up to $750 with a 4 night stay, up to $1,500 with a 5-6 night stay, up to $2,000 with a 9-11 night stay and up to the equivalent of $2,500 with a stay of 12-13 nights and up to $3,600 with a stay of 14 nights or more. A 20% service fee will apply over the inal price of all transactions using the Limitless Resort Credit promotion on all services or products available at Hard Rock Hotel Cancun, Hard Rock Riviera Maya, Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Punta Cana and Hard Rock Hotel Vallarta. Service fee can only be paid with cash, room charge and credit card. Service fee cannot be paid with the remaining Limitless Resort Credit promotion balance. Other restrictions may apply.

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FO R C U S TO M E R S E R V I C E A N D S U B S C R I P T I O N Q U E S T I O N S , such as renewals, address changes, email preferences, billing and account status, go to: islands.com/cs.

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THERE’S ROOM FOR

EVERYONE UP TO 38% OFF ANY ROOM CATEGORY

Live like a rock star. But without the price tag. Each lavish room is stuffed full of every luxury imaginable — hydro spa tubs, top-shelf stacked minibars, free Wi-Fi, 24–hr room service and so much more. With 38% off, now is the perfect time to upgrade your stay. Check out Rock Royalty Level and kick the VIP treatment into high gear. Book today for travel between now and December 23, 2016.

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ALL DAY. ALL NIGHT. ALL INCLUDED

Percentage of savings varies per dates and by property. Applies to NEW reservations only, existing reservations do not qualify. Applies to child rate. Reservations with overlapping dates qualify; discount will apply for nights within travel window. Promotion is subject to change without prior notice. We reserve the right to discontinue this promotion at any time. All previously sent close-outs and inventory changes apply and remain in place. Applicable to group bookings. Not applicable to reservations with employee rate, travel agent rate, FAMS, complimentary or compensatory stays.

MAR APR

Editor’s Leter

Best

Quit your job.

Move to an island.

Be happy.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE A DECADE MAKES. LOOKING OUT THE WINDOW AS THE PLANE NEARED NASSAU’S Lynden Pindling airport in the Bahamas, I was amazed by the sheer size and scope of development across the island. Two more bright pink towers had joined Atlantis since my visit all those years ago. That cluster of huge buildings on the horizon was Baha Mar, the ill-fated resort that went bankrupt before it even opened.

On the way to my hotel, I asked the taxi driver what had happened to the Hilton, a stately, 1920s-era property where I had last stayed. It’s still there, he answered, pointing to a building covered in scaffolding and flanked by plywood billboards advertising something called The Pointe, which promised a “world-class” shopping, entertainment and dining experience, plus a marina and parking for 1,000 cars.

Of course, we can’t stop change, but the relentless march of progress should give us pause. On the one hand, it creates jobs, boosts tourism and stimulates the local economy; on the other, it threatens the pristine waters, beautiful beaches and local flora and fauna — the very things that make a place special to begin with.

In this issue, we tackle this thorny argument, exploring the pros and cons of a massive new casino and marina on Bimini (p. 48), and how increased tourism has both helped and hurt the Galapagos, prompting government intervention and a wave of sustainable, ecofriendly practices (p. 24).

It’s up to you to decide where and how you spend your tourism dollars; hopefully these stories encourage you to think about it more deeply.

Jennifer Ceaser Editorial Director

We show you how on islands.com/BITLO.

Z AC H S TOVA L L

to Live on

VISIT islands.com DOWNLOAD Search for “Islands Magazine” in the App Store for latest issues KEEP UP Sign up for our newsletter at islands.com/enews FOLLOW Twitter & Instagram @islandsmagazine • facebook.com/ islandsmag • pinterest.com/ islandsmagazine CONTACT editor@islands.com

BVITOURISM.COM 1-800-835-8530 The British Virgin Islands is nature’s little secret. Hidden throughout her 60 bejeweled islands are pristine beaches, ancient shipwrecks, lush mountain trails, and cave explorations that quench the most profound wanderlust. These are everlasting moments. The ones we keep to ourselves.

MAR APR

Connect YOU ASKED

Q: What happens to Tahiti’s overwater bungalows when a hurricane hits?

A: French Polynesia is in the South Pacific, so they have cyclones rather than hurricanes: same type of storm, different location. The islands of Tahiti aren’t in the cyclone belt, but storms can happen.

Summer (December through March) is storm season, so if you’re worried about the rain impacting your trip, consider visiting during shoulder season.

YOU’VE BEEN

1

2

3

4

5

6

WE ASKED

Do you use a selfie stick?

77% SAID NO

INSTAGRAM

Use #islandsmag, and your photo might end up in the magazine.

1. @bucketlistbums, Nusa Dua, Bali 2. @anjuliglobal, Big Major Cay, Exuma 3. @labovee, Church Bay, Bermuda 4. @roatan_life_real_estate, Honduras 5. @mynewcaledonia, Coeur de Voh (the heart of Voh), New Caledonia 6. @gussmenezes, Isla Catalina, Dominican Republic

“IT’S HEALTHY TO WASH YOUR EYES WITH BEAUTIFUL NEW SIGHTS EVERY NOW AND THEN.” — Dan Ross, via Facebook

Q: You won the lottery!

What’s your dream trip?

A: Sailing around the world on Queen Mary 2.

A: Visiting The Brando resort in Tahiti.

A: Staying in an overwater bungalow in the Maldives.

A: Taking a chartered catamaran in the Eastern Caribbean.

HOW TO MAKE A CAPTIVA COOLER WE’VE BEEN

FOLLOW US

See where we are in the world: instagram .com/islandsmagazine

12 ISLANDS

APRIL

The Turks and Caicos don’t need any filters. That’s especially true when you’re on the ferry linking Provo to North Caicos, a 40-minute ride (each way) that showcases every shade of blue known to man. The ideal day trip, North and Middle Caicos offer a taste of what the archipelago looked like before all the luxury hotels sprung up. Rent a car to tool around the islands, or do as I did and hire a guide to drive you around to the secret beach spots, where you can snap your own #nofilter masterpiece. — Editorial Director Jennifer Ceaser

from South Seas Island Resort, Florida top w/ a splash of cherry juice 4 parts pineapple rum 1 part mango puree

add a splash of lemonade mix together, pour over ice 1 part banana liqueur

Find more tropical libations at islands.com/drinks

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Food, fun and exhilaration are just the beginning of what’s included at every Elite Island Resort. his is your authentic Caribbean experience, where tradition and exploration combine with the warmest service, bluest waters and a world of activities.

So whether you’re here to relax or in the mood for something a little more adventurous, we’ve got you covered.

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16 ISLANDS

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CHRIS HILL/GETTY

18 A NEW WAY TO CLEAR CUSTOMS

GET HERE Northern Ireland Would you dare to cross the 65-foot-long Carricka-Rede Rope Bridge, suspended 100 feet above the sea? The famed overpass in County Antrim was built 350 years ago by salmon fishermen to connect the mainland to Carrick Island. Those brave enough to make the trek are rewarded with views of Rathlin Island and Scotland, plus the chance to spot birds like fulmars, kittiwakes, guillemots and razorbills. Another reason to visit this year: HBO’s fantasy series Game of Thrones filmed a plot-changing scene here for its sixth season, which airs in late April. Fans should also head to nearby Ballintoy, a village that served as the Iron Islands on the show.

WHEN TO GO

MAY

TO SEPTEMBER Summer months bring higher temps and less rain. It’s also the best time for festivals, craft fairs and markets.

20 READERS’ TOP PICK FOR ALLINCLUSIVES

22 HIKING TO A WATERFALL IN YELAPA, MEXICO

24 HOW TOURISM AFFECTS THE GALAPAGOS

GET HERE

Discover

HIKE AND BIKE ITALY With the euro trading almost evenly with the U.S. dollar, now’s the time to book a European vacation. Our pick? Coastal Italy and two of its best-known islands, Capri and Sicily. Spring is the season to go, with mild temps and fewer crowds than in summer. Consider these new excursions from Tourissimo, an outfit specializing in Italy travel with a touch of adventure.

AMALFI COAST AND CAPRI The isle of Capri is famous for the Blue Grotto and La Piazzetta, its glamorous main square, but this hiking tour also stops at some

lesser-known spots like Anacapri — the quieter sister to Capri town — atop Monte Solaro. The weeklong expedition then skips over to the mainland to hit Amalfi Coast hot spots Ravello and Positano. April 18-24, from $3,995 SICILY Traversing this Mediterranean island by bicycle lets you see the real Sicilian countryside — including notable towns like Corleone, along with many wineries.

You’ll also spend a day sailing to Favignana island, known for its crystal-clear waters.

May 7-14, from $4,495; tourissimo.travel

Good Reads Art Place Japan Every three years, the EchigoTsumari Art Triennale transforms a 300-square-mile area of rural Japan into a large-scale art installation. Read this and start planning your 2018 trip.

Princeton Architectural Press, $35

Wild By Nature Sarah Marquis hiked a 10,000-mile solo trek across six countries. Her account of survival includes thieves, freezing temps and dangerous wildlife.

Thomas Dunne Books, $26.99

Destinations of a Lifetime This coffee-table book chronicles 225 of the world’s most beautiful places. Our favorite chapter? Sea and Shore.

National Geographic Books, $47

Acadia National Park A photographic look into the varied landscapes of Maine’s famed national park, one of the U.S.'s most popular. Rizzoli, $50

DON'T MISS

SAINT LUCIA JAZZ & ARTS FESTIVAL Celebrating its 25th year, the 10-day event kicks off on April 29.

Venues across the island will feature local art and music, with headliners Shaggy and George Benson.

18 ISLANDS

APRIL

BOOKS: JON WHITTLE

A selfie can get you through customs? It’s true, thanks to the free, surprisingly simple Mobile Passport app from Airside Mobile. Just fill out your profile (or use the passport scanner) and snap a pic to confirm your identity. In the air, enter your flight details and answer the standard re-entry questions. Once you touch down at a participating airport (including MIA, ATL and SFO, with more on the way), hit submit to receive an encrypted digital bar code. This allows you to breeze past the regular line, easily shaving an hour off the process. Collect your bags and head to the special lane for app users, the one shared with diplomats — because you’re important. mobilepassport.us — Zach Stovall

FREE AND CLEAR

Swiss and Alpine Islands A tome detailing the isles in Switzerland, Italy, Germany and Austria. Think quaint cottages, medieval churches and waterside castles. teNeues, $12.95

Motu MĐžday Explore the islands of French Polynesia, including our own private beach retreats on Motu Mahana, an islet off the coast of Taha'a, and Bora Bora.

Our all-inclusive pricing offers an exceptional value, with 50% off standard cruise fares on all sailings of our luxury small ship plus included roundtrip airfare from Los Angeles.

For more information, contact your Travel Professional, call 877-440-6119, or visit www.pgcruises.com/islands

TAHITI | FRENCH POLYNESIA | SOUTH PACIFIC

Find out what past guests think of our private island on Instagram #MotuMahana

GET HERE

Best of the Caribbean

A L L - I NC M I L E ST ON E S READERS’ PICK: ALL-INCLUSIVE VACATIONS

JAMAICA It’s clear why you chose this island as the best for allinclusive getaways. Iconic brands like Sandals and Couples launched their first resorts here, paving the way for today’s everything’s-included model. With varied hotel options, there’s a package to fit your needs, from couplesonly to family-friendly, from mega-resorts to boutiques.

Here are a few fun all-inclusive facts about Jamaica.

HOTELS OFFER ALL-INCLUSIVE PACKAGES

$266 AVERAGE ALLINCLUSIVE RATE PER PERSON PER NIGHT

MONTEGO BAY OCHO RIOS THREE MAIN RESORT AREAS WITH THE MOST ALLINCLUSIVE PROPERTIES 20 ISLANDS

APRIL

WHAT DOES AN ALL-INCLUSIVE RATE TYPICALLY INCLUDE? Accommodations • All meals • Alcoholic beverages • Nightly entertainment • Watersports • Wi-Fi • Tax and gratuities • Depending on the property, the rate can also include: Golf • Scuba diving • Spa treatments • Tours and excursions • Butler service • Airport transfers WHEN TO GO: PLAN YOUR TRIP AROUND REGGAE SUMFEST, JULY 1723 IN MOBAY. CATCH LOCAL REGGAE ACTS, ALONG WITH INTERNATIONAL ARTISTS LIKE RIHANNA AND USHER.

1962 The first-ever hotel package was offered by Frenchman’s Cove in Port Antonio. A twoweek stay and round-trip transportation — by ship — from Boston was only $200.

1976 Negril Beach Village opened.

Modeled after Club Med, guests exchanged shark teeth to purchase drinks.

1978 Couples Ocho Rios launches as the first resort to be both all-inclusive and couplesonly. They developed the modern standard, with rates including accommodations, meals, beverages, water sports, entertainment — even unlimited cigarettes.

1981 Gordon “Butch” Stewart, a native to Jamaica, opens Sandals Montego Bay, the brand’s flagship property.

GRAND PALLADIUM

GRAND PALLADIUM

LADY HAMILTON

JAMAICA

RESORT & SPA

RESORT & SPA

Feel free, t’s included Dive into the extraordinary Jamaican culture and discover hidden waterfalls and breathtaking views. Surrounded by several idyllic rainforest beaches, Grand Palladium Jamaica Resort & Spa is the perfect holiday destination for both families and couples. Enjoy authentic Jamaican cuisine, comfort and a wide range of activities for all tastes.

Travel Tales

“Somewhere along the journey, I misplaced 100 pesos, leaving me mostly broke. I begin to wonder if this trek is doomed.”

WHERE: YELAPA, MEXICO THE FIND: A STRANGER’S GENEROSITY n just 90 minutes, I had taken two buses and boarded a water taxi idling in the Pacific.

The destination: Yelapa, a no-electricity, no-cars, hidden beach town accessible only from Puerta Vallarta.

Somewhere along the journey, I misplaced 100 pesos, leaving me mostly broke. I begin to wonder if this trek is doomed.

I

Too far from civilization, there was no turning back, so I hope that a big bottle of water and a banana will keep me sated for the day.

As we disembark, I’m immediately hit with the scent of burning palm leaves — the definitive smell of a far-off-the-grid beach town.

Rather than join the small group of tourists headed for the main (and only) beach, I hook a left inland and follow the scent down an unmarked trail. En route to who-knows-

where, I come upon some parrots, donkeys and a makeshift juice stand.

I linger there, salivating.

“It just needs ice,” chirps a pretty hippie chick.

Hmmm, I think dubiously.

Ice in Mexico …

“I’ll pass,” I answer politely, knowing I can’t spare my dwindling pesos. “Do you have any suggestions for somewhere cheap to eat?”

“Oh, you have to go to Cafe Bahia,” she tells me.

“Fairly cheap?” I repeat.

“Do you need money, honey?” she asks, pulling out an embroidered pouch.

“Here,” she says, stuffing 200 pesos in my hand. “Go to Cafe Bahia on me.”

I offer to pay her back via Paypal once I get home, but she replies with a sweet smile, “Just pay it forward.”

After scarfing down one of the best plates of beans and spicy scrambled eggs I had ever tasted, I feel prepared to explore some more remote

territory — specifically the village waterfall above town.

I follow handwritten signs nailed to palm trees, with directions like “up a little ways” and “down a dirt path.”

When I finally reach the waterfall, I am, to be honest, unimpressed by its lack of grandeur. Sure, at nearly 150 feet, it’s a beatific beast of nature, but it didn’t still my heart as I expected.

But what did was the journey, one that led me to a kind stranger whose donation reminded me that unforeseen circumstances can bring about good fortune and, on rare occasions, that money can buy happiness. Or, at least, a really delicious breakfast.

— Sara Lieberman

TRAVEL TIP

In Yelapa, order raicilla, tequila’s sweeter cousin, also made using agave plants from Jalisco.

SAY OUR EDITORS

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F R O M L E F T: S A R A L I E B E R M A N ; M A R G E L I T V I N S K A S / P H OTO G R A P H E R ' S D I R E C T

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DEEPER Dive into adventure! Sign up for a NAUI Worldwide scuba course and discover the exotic underwater world that awaits just beyond the beach. Explore tropical reefs bursting with colorful corals and curious fish. It’s fun, easy, exciting — and life-changing.

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C R THE

O

MASS TOURISM, INVASIVE SPECIES AND OVERFISHING ARE JUST SOME THREATS

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FACING THIS FRAGILE ECOSYSTEM. CROSS THE DESTINATION OFF YOUR BUCKET LIST, BUT DO SO RESPONSIBLY.

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BY AMANDA JONES | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JON WHITTLE

S

A

SEA LION ACCELERATES STRAIGHT TOWARD MY

face, ducking inches from collision to swoop under and pirouette back over me, repeating the action a dozen times.

This is what most of us would popularly consider a bucket-list experience, and yet, in Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands, it’s a very average one.

It’s also exactly why visitors take the long journey to reach the archipelago. The first Westerners to discover the islands in 1535 called the animals “foolishly tame.” It’s an extraordinary feeling to be among wild creatures that don’t immediately flee from humans, the most destructive of all predators. But would they have been better of if we had left them alone?

Even though Charles Darwin’s living laboratory lies 600 miles from the nearest landmass, the rates of overpopulation, mass tourism, pollution, introduced species, illegal fishing and climate change are endangering the very ecosystem we come here to appreciate.

So, as a potential visitor, you might be asking yourself: Are these good-enough reasons to travel here soon, before said pressures force the Ecuadorian government to take draconian measures — before species start disappearing?

The answer is yes, but sensitively.

“Scaled tourism in the Galapagos started in the 1960s with roughly 1,000 visitors a year,” Veronica Maruri, my naturalist guide, tells me. “By 1990, there were 40,000. By 2014, that number had risen to 215,700.” That’s a 21,000 percent growth in just 50 years — and these numbers are not going down.

When Darwin arrived on the islands in 1835, only a handful of people were living there. Right now, there are over 30,000 legal and illegal residents, either supporting tourists or scouring the waters for fish.

Because 97 percent of the Galapagos is national park, only 3 percent is left for human habitation, but overcrowding hasn’t stopped migration by those in search of a job. In 2007, UNESCO listed the Galapagos as an endangered World Heritage Site, stating overpopulation as one problem. The islands were taken of the list in 2010, but the warning led to stricter mandates.

Currently, the number of tourist boats operating is limited to just over 80 and the passengers aboard restricted to 100 (most carry far less). Hotel beds are also capped. Guided groups on shore cannot have more than 16 visitors. Each vessel is limited to visiting a particular site once every 15 days and given a time slot to

IT’S AN EXTRAORDINARY FEELING TO BE AMONG WILD CREATURES THAT DON’T IMMEDIATELY FLEE FROM HUMANS, THE MOST DESTRUCTIVE OF ALL PREDATORS.

come and go. More Galapagos islands — there are nine main ones — have opened up to smaller boats to ensure a slower flow of human traic, but visitors must stick to paths and be accompanied by their licensed guide.

In the 1970s, there were two flights per week to the Galapagos; now there are six per day. The government has had to cope with increased diesel and gas in the water from private yachts and cruise boats; the disposal of human waste and garbage; overfishing to feed the tourists, locals and mainland Ecuadorians; and destruction of terrain by human feet. Additionally, sharks, seahorses and sea cucumbers are being plundered in vast quantities and sold at high prices for their supposed medicinal value.

Invasive blackberry, introduced by humans, is rampant on many islands. A botfly is killing off one of Darwin’s finch species. An African snail is voraciously eating native plants, which in turn impacts iguanas and other species. Climate change threatens to raise sea levels and wipe out breeding grounds. Plastic garbage in the water kills marine life regularly. These are all things of which we tend to be blithely unaware as we somersault in the water with a sea lion.

WHEN TO GO

JUN Book at least six months in advance for high season because of limits on boats and hotels.

Clockwise from top: Ranger and guide Veronica Maruri; unique Galapagos wildlife includes blue-footed boobies, baby sea lions, Sally Lightfoot crabs and magnificent frigate birds.

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ISLANDS 27

PIKAIA LODGE’S CONTEMPORARY DESIGN IS A MIX OF CONCRETE, GLASS, RECYCLED STEEL, BAMBOO AND SUSTAINABLE TEAK. ITS AIM IS TO BE CARBON NEUTRAL.

Surprisingly, a luxury eco-lodge was allowed to be built fairly recently. Pikaia Lodge, which opened in 2014, sits in the hinterland of Santa Cruz Island on 77 acres. The government did not allow the owner of Pikaia to build along the shore, so he constructed the property in the highlands, which have a mountainous feel, compared with the balmy climate near the water.

Pikaia’s contemporary design is a mix of concrete, glass, recycled steel, bamboo and sustainable teak. Its aim is to be carbon neutral. “We minimize garbage by buying and growing fresh produce,” Andrew Balfour, the general manager, tells me. “We avoid plastic bottles, recycle water, use solar energy, reforest the property and use what can be used again. But we still plan to do more — this is such a fragile environment.”

In being green, luxury is not sacrificed. There’s an infinity lap pool, a spa, a gym, the Evolution restaurant, the DNA bar, a Homo Sapiens lounge with photos and etchings of Charles Darwin and a flat-screen TV where guests can watch nature documentaries in 3-D. It would be a missed opportunity to come to the Galapagos and remain on land, so Pikaia has a 100-foot yacht for day trips. The vessel is permitted to anchor of islands such as South Plaza, where only smaller boats may venture. Additionally, guided groups are rarely larger than eight people.

THE TOPOGRAPHY OF THE MAIN ISLANDS IS SO

diverse that it’s hard to reconcile them as the same chain.

Some are barren with black, ropy, volcanic rock and little life, such as the eerily desolate James Island, where iguanas blend with the tortured shapes of solidified lava. Others feel tropical, like Santa Cruz, with palm trees, turquoise water and white-sand beaches.

Bartolome is desert and dunes; Isabela has crater lakes with pink flamingos. South Plaza is covered in Dr. Seussian prickly-pear cactuses and a brilliantred ground cover. And each island has a distinct sound.

For example, the only noises on South Plaza are the wind howling up the plunging clif faces, the whistling of the albatrosses and the barking of ill-tempered bachelor sea lions that come here to recover from injury or after being scorned by a female.

Amid the emerald fields of Santa Cruz are giant tortoises moving like hulking gray boulders. Even if they

S T A Y

wanted to run from us, they could not — males weigh around 600 pounds. Astoundingly, the greatest modernday enemy of the giant tortoise is the goat, introduced centuries ago by whalers and pirates. The mammals mow through grass and trees that tortoises rely on for food, water and shade. They are a case study in the law of unintended consequences, when the actions of people have an unforeseen and catastrophic efect.

On Isabela Island, over 100,000 goats ate entire forests, and the giant tortoise population almost disappeared. Just in time, a globally funded project spent a great deal of money shooting the goats from helicopters and on horseback. Then they did the same on Santa

PIKAIA LODGE The 14-room property is priced from $2,650 per night, based on double occupancy, with three-, four- or seven-day programs. That includes transfers, excursions, a guide, boat trips, snorkeling gear and nonalcoholic beverages. pikaialodgegalapagos.com

Opposite and above: Pikaia Lodge ofers modern comforts like EcuadorianPeruvian fusion cuisine, South American wines and specialty cocktails. Day tours to outlying islands are ofered aboard their private yacht.

FINCH BAY ECO HOTEL The 27-room hotel is located on the water near the main town of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz. From $454 per night; 3-day packages from $1,923 per person, including meals, transfers and excursions on the hotel’s yacht. finchbayhotel.com

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ISLANDS 29

EXTENSIVE WORK IS BEING DONE TO ERADICATE THREATS, CONTROL HUMAN POPULATION AND BRING BACK ENDANGERED SPECIES. female tortoises in his corral nested. Sadly, the eggs all turned out to be infertile. He died in 2012, we believe of old age — without ever having produced any ofspring.”

IT’S NOT ALL GRIM NEWS IN THE GALAPAGOS.

Above: Exploring Santiago Island’s volcanic landscape.

Opposite, clockwise from top: A forest of pricklypear cactuses; a baby blue-footed booby; a giant land tortoise.

F A C T S

Cruz, where the bulk of the population lived, causing protests by locals who liked eating goat. Demonstrators slaughtered several giant tortoises in anger.

In the past, humans decimated tortoise populations. Whalers, pirates and even Darwin’s own Beagle took the slow-moving and slow-dying Galapagos giant tortoises by the thousands for food — when placed upside down in the hold of a ship, they lived for up to a year. It was widely accepted that humans had wiped out the species on Pinta Island by 1906; that is, until 1971, when a scientist reported having seen a lone tortoise wandering on the island. They can live up to 150 years, so it was likely that this one had outlived his cohorts, making him the last of the Pinta species.

“He was named ‘Lonesome George’ and brought back to Santa Cruz,” says Linda Cayot, the scientific adviser to the Galapagos Conservancy and the former staf herpetologist at the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz Island. “A worldwide search for a female Pinta tortoise in zoos — and on Pinta — came to nothing. We tried to mate him with other species of Galapagos giant tortoise. For years, he showed no interest in females. We even tried sexual simulation with him. Not interested. Then suddenly, both of the

GET HERE American Airlines operates direct flights to Guayaquil, Ecuador, from Miami.

Flights to Baltra Island from Guayaquil are under two hours.

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INFO English is spoken widely, but Spanish is the first language.

• The oicial currency is the U.S. dollar. • Have $100 in cash for the park fee on Baltra Island.

Extensive work is being done to eradicate threats, control human population and bring back endangered species (including an attempt to clone Lonesome George from his tissue). According to the Galapagos Conservancy, 95 percent of the islands’ native species that existed before the arrival of humans remain intact. But how can we, as tourists, do our part to help?

“Go with a reputable tour operator — we recommend a few on our website — and follow the rules while there,” Johannah Barry, president of Galapagos Conservancy tells me. “A good operator will have you clean your shoes between islands so you don’t transport native species. Stay on paths, don’t expect lobster every night, don’t bring food with you and conserve water while there — there’s not a lot of it on the islands.”

After a day watching male frigate birds inflate their scarlet throat sacs to create a balloon-size attraction to tantalize females, I wonder if human dominance and rapaciousness are all part of Darwin’s survival of the fittest theory. Those species that can adapt to the homo-sapien maelstrom will live on stronger and better equipped genetically. It seems tragic, however, that we might ruin one of the last bastions of natural rule on the planet.

“Absolutely, I think tourists should go to the Galapagos,” Barry responds when I ask if we ought to leave these islands to the animals. “I constantly hear how a trip there is a transformational experience. People often become conservation advocates, not only for the Galapagos, but also in their own home ecosystems.”

She’s right. When you’ve stared closely into the eyes of sea lion, you are never quite the same again. It would be a tragedy if, in our enthusiasm to witness the fearless animals, we damage their ecosystem and lose the opportunity to feel the exhilaration and wonder that being in the Galapagos brings.

HAWAI‘I with Your ‘Ohana

Family Adventures in the Islands of ALOHA

THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS extend a warm, welcoming aloha to your ‘ohana (family) and your keiki (children). You’ll find family-friendly adventures and activities that showcase the natural splendor, authentic Hawaiian culture, and rich history of this extraordinary archipelago. Opt for the thrills of zip lines, whale watching, and helicopter tours. Take a plantation train tour, explore a magical garden, and learn about Hawai‘i’s legendary paniolo (cowboys). All this and more await in Hawai‘i.

S P E C I A L P R O M O T I O N A L F E AT U R E

Music to your ears.

Take advantage of limited-time rates before it’s too late.

Photo: Princeville Ranch Adventures

Photo: Tony LeHoven

OUTRIGGER RESORTS brings you the best live Hawaiian music every night in Waikīkī.

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Zip N’ Dip

Take a Hike

Located at one of Hawai‘i’s first cattle ranches, Princeville Ranch Adventures (princevilleranch.com) offers outstanding activities like the thrilling Zip N’ Dip with nine picturesque zip lines and a suspension bridge over a waterfall. Soar over a lush valley, taking in gorgeous views. On the final zip line–King Kong—climb up a 26-foot-high tower and zip side-by-side on a 1,200-foot line. There’s also time to enjoy a dip and inner tube floating in a waterfall-fed swimming hole.

Discover the history and beauty of ‘Īao Valley State Park, home to the towering and iconic lava pinnacle Kūkaemoku, known as the ‘Īao Needle. In 1790, King Kamehameha I and his forces fought the Battle of Kepaniwai here against Maui’s army in his quest to unite the islands of Hawai‘i. Walk along the pedestrian path from the parking lot to view the ‘Īao Needle and admire the valley vistas from the ridgetop lookout. Take the rainforest walk and explore the interactive exhibits at the Hawai‘i Nature Center.

Plantation Train Tour

Under the Sea

Travel back in time aboard the open-sided Kaua‘i Plantation Railway at historic Kilohana Plantation (kilohanakauai.com). The 40-minute, narrated Signature Train Tour reveals the plantation’s 50-plus varieties of fruit tree orchards, vegetable gardens, rare and exotic tropical flowers, forests, hardwood trees, and animal pastures with donkeys, goats, sheep, horses, cattle, ducks, and wild geese. Children especially love to disembark and feed the animals.

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Na ‘Aina Kai Botanical Gardens & Sculpture Park (naainakai. org) is a magical 240-acre wonderland with a range of settings. Book the Family Tour and visit the Formal Gardens, the full-size hedge maze, and the Children’s Garden, where kids can explore Jack’s pond, a gecko maze, the treehouse, and a tropical jungle with bridges, tunnels, and slides, a kidsize train, and more. You can also come on Keiki Day one Saturday a month.

Photo: Hawai'i Tourism Japan (HTJ)

Mazes, Gardens, and More

Families love Maui Ocean Center, The Hawai‘i Aquarium (mauioceancenter.com), home to sharks, turtles, stingrays, tropical fish, and live Pacific corals. More than 60 indoor/ outdoor exhibits showcase Hawai‘i’s marine life such as the 750,000-gallon Open Ocean Exhibit with a 54-foot walkthrough tunnel, Turtle Lagoon, and Hammerhead Harbor.

Kid-friendly activities abound, including the Keiki Passport Petroglyph Hunt, Story Time Saturdays, and Talk Story & Hula Lessons with Kahu Dane Maxwell and ‘Ohana.

Henry Kapono AWARD-WINNING MUSICIAN Sunday evenings at Duke’s Waikiki Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort

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S P E C I A L P R O M O T I O N A L F E AT U R E

HAWAI‘I ISLAND Historic Ranch Evening

Photo: Hawai'i Tourism Authority (HTA)/ Tor Johnson

Photo: Kahua Ranch

Discover Lāna‘i Spend a day on one of Maui’s sister islands, Lāna‘i, with Trilogy Excursions (sailtrology.com). The Trilogy sailboat leaves from Maui’s Lahaina Harbor and docks at Mānele Harbor on Lāna‘i. You and your keiki will visit beautiful Hulopo‘e Bay Marine Sanctuary for swimming, snorkeling, beach volleyball, and SNUBA. Take a guided tour of Lāna‘i City, a historic plantation town, and feast on a barbecue lunch prepared by your captain and served at the Hale O Mānele Pavilion overlooking Mānele Bay.

Discover the history and lore of the Hawaiian paniolo (cowboy) at Kahua Ranch (kahuaranch.com) as you watch the sun sink into the Pacific from the western slopes of the Kohala Mountains. Legend has it that King Kamehameha I trained his warriors on these lands in the 18th century. The Evening at Kahua Ranch experience includes a barbecue dinner, live music and line dancing, roping instructions, and horseshoe pitching. Your kids can even brand a cedar shingle to take home, and they can meet the pet pig, Piggly Wiggly, who thinks she’s a dog.

Puna Coast Drive Explore the Puna Coast with Native Guide Hawai‘i (nativeguidehawaii.com), which focuses on the cultural and historical significance of Hawai‘i Island. Experience Puna’s verdant ‘ōhi‘a forests and thermally heated ponds, along with crystal-clear tide pools with stunning corals and brightly colored native fish. You’ll visit newly formed Kaimū Black Sand Beach and learn about the Kīlauea volcano lava flow that covered Kalapana Village in 1990. Witness stunning scenery along the famed shoreline Red Road (Kapoho-Kalapana Road 137), and snorkel and swim in the thermally heated ponds and tide pools.

Kohala Coast Heli Tour

Year-Round Whale Watching While Hawai‘i’s official humpback whale watching season ends in April, Wild Side Specialty Tours offers (sailhawaii. com) offers year-round whale watching, dolphin swimming, and turtle snorkeling on their Best of the West adventure. Join the crew of marine biologists on their 34-foot environmentally friendly Power Cat, Alaka‘i, on a thrilling and intimate journey with just six passengers. Few

Collect stories, not selfies.

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Photo: Wild Side Specialty Tours

Photo: Warren Costa

Experience the spectacular scenery of Hawai‘i Island with Blue Hawaiian Helicopters (bluehawaiian.com). Opt for the Kohala Coast Adventure, leaving from Waikoloa, and view the towering sea cliffs and deep valleys of the Kohala Mountains, along with waterfalls cascading thousands of feet into the rainforest and remnants of ancient Hawaiian settlements.

You’ll fly in total comfort aboard an ultra-quiet, spacious EcoStar or A-Star helicopter with rigorously trained pilots who are also State of Hawai‘i Certified Tour Guides.

O‘AHU

adventures compare to encountering pilot whales and false killer whales, a variety of dolphin species, seabirds, and sea turtles, as the crew shares their knowledge of Hawai‘i’s marine life, island culture, and living aloha.

Lights, Camera, Action O‘ahu’s Kualoa Ranch (kualoa.com) is an extremely popular filming location. More than 50 TV shows and movies have been made on this 4,000-acre working ranch and private nature reserve that spans mountains and valleys to the shoreline. Take Kualoa’s Movie Sites Tour and see filming spots for Jurassic Park, Windtalkers, Godzilla, You Me & Dupree, Hawaii Five-O, Lost, and many other productions as you explore this breathtaking property on O‘ahu’s northeast coast.

Marine Life Encounters Prepare for some close encounters at Sea Life Park Hawai‘i (sealifeparkhawaii.com) and the thrill of swimming with dolphins, sharks, sea lions, or Hawaiian rays. Live shows—The Dolphin Cove Show, Hawai‘i Ocean Theater, and Kolohe Kai Sea Lion Show— showcase the power, grace, and acrobatics of these incredible animals. Don’t-miss exhibits include habitats like the 300,000-gallon Shark Cave Tank and the Seabird Sanctuary. And the Oceanic Institute Tour is a behind-thescenes look at the research and conservation facility. R

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A LV A R O L E I V A / A G E F O T O S T O C K

42 THE DOG LOVER OF ST. JOHN

44

LIFE HERE

TIME TO MOVE TO WARMER CLIMES? HOW ABOUT BARBADOS?

46 MEET THE MAN BEHIND ARUBA’S TASTIEST TREAT

48 Stone Town, Zanzibar Lining the twisting streets of Stone Town, the oldest part of Zanzibar City, are these ornate wood doors. But they aren’t just doors — they function as a kind of personal profile, carved out of teak or mahogany. Historically, people in this coastal trading town conducted business from their homes, and the doors’ sculpted symbols signified not only their trade, but also their wealth, social standing and religious beliefs. The elaborate designs feature Swahili, Arabic or Indian influences; the latter introduced bronze spikes on the doors to protect one’s home against marauding elephants.

Though here, where no elephants live, the spikes are purely ornamental.

WHEN TO GO

JUN TO OCTOBER

Winter here brings cool, dry weather • Diving is at its peak in July and August.

CAN BIMINI WITHSTAND BIG DEVELOPMENT?

LIFE HERE

Food Remix

CLAM CHOWDER, NEW ENGLAND Chunks of potatoes.

Cubes of bacon.

Meaty bits of locally foraged clams. Creamy, buttery broth.

Clam chowder (er, chowdah) in the northeastern U.S. isn’t just a meal; it’s a classic New England experience.

SOPA DE COUVE, AZORES Kale takes center stage in this hearty chicken stockbased soup, with supporting roles played by red kidney beans, potatoes and chorizo. In some cases, the beans and potatoes are pureed, making the broth stick-toyour-spoon thick.

Many versions add carrots or pasta.

FISH STEW, ZANZIBAR The best fish stews here are served over white rice — the perfect foundation for a broth that’s both sweet (thanks to coconut milk) and spicy (chili and curry powder).

Most types feature monkfish or cod; some also have shellfish.

SOUP’S ON

Considered the Brazilian national dish, this stew comprises black beans, beef and pork. On this particular island, it’s served with toasted manioc flour, which is sprinkled on top.

Spice up the cold snaps of early spring with these islands specialties — warming broths, chowders and stews from around the globe.

BY MATT VILLANO

WANTAN-MEN, JAPAN

KJOTSUPA, ICELAND Technically, kjotsupa is a lamb stew, usually made with cheap cuts. On the palate, though, this light soup is all about veggies — cabbage, carrots and rutabaga, to name a few.

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Ramen noodles plus wonton soup equals this mashup of soul-warming goodness, which is popular in Sakata, a coastal city in the Tohoku region.

Most versions include miso, Japanese leek, bamboo shoots, egg and nori; diners add soy sauce for flavor.

C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P M I D D L E : AG E F OTO S TO C K ; S H U T T E R S TO C K ; M A S T E R F I L E (2); C U LT U R A R M /A L A MY; S H U T T E R S TO C K

FEIJOADA, FLORIANOPOLIS

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north coast, the all-inclusive Jewel Paradise Cove Beach Resort & Spa, Curio Collection by Hilton glitters in the sunlight.

T

he concept of the all-inclusive resort got its start on Jamaica, so it’s no wonder that the island is home to some of the top all-inclusive resorts in the Caribbean. Take Jewel Paradise Cove Beach Resort & Spa. Whatever you call a perfect Caribbean vacation — dining under a canopy of stars, sailing into the sunset with fresh fruit smoothies, exploring the coastline in a glass-bottomed boat or playing golf at nearby Runaway Bay Golf &OXE WUDQVIHUV HYHQ LQFOXGHG ³ \RX¡OO À QG LW DW WKLV adults-only retreat as unique as you are.

Perched on the edge of sapphire-blue Runaway Bay, the resort combines elegance, luxury and a commitment to wellness with a warm Jamaican smile that delivers thoughtful gestures at every turn – Think cold towels, fresh fruit skewers by the pool and unlimited fresh juices and smoothies. Expansive URRPV KDYH SULYDWH EDOFRQLHV RU SDWLRV à DW VFUHHQ televisions and mini-bars. Upgrade to a butler-service junior suite and you won’t even have to unpack your bag or leave your room; the suite’s array of amenities includes room service. If you do leave the suite, indulge in a different restaurant each night and travel the world while you’re at it. Each of the resort’s seven restaurants specializes in a different type of cuisine, including gourmet Caribbean fare, Italian, sushi and grilled teppanyaki, brick-oven pizza, and even local Jamaican specialties like spicy jerk chicken and ackee. The nightlife, which includes a disco and a piano bar, is equally varied.

Don’t miss out on spoiling yourself at the optional two-story, oceanfront, villa-style Radiant Spa, which offers a variety of pampering services like hot-stone massages, an invigorating exfoliation with Jamaican coffee and a unique massage performed in the ocean by two therapists. You can also transform your vacation into a wellness retreat with the 10-station Fit-TrailŽ included in your package or indulge in multiday packages with spa therapies, private exercise sessions, chakra balancing and guided meditation.

For the utmost in relaxation, join celebrated yoga instructors and partake in holistic nutritional lectures, multiple daily yoga sessions, Reiki classes, power walks and more during week-long Yoga Retreats held on May 8-14, August 21-27 and December 11-17, 2016. Dates subject to change.

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Live the Life

Going to the Dogs Laurie Damron once had a high-profile job with Ivana Trump, but this former New Yorker left all that glamour — and stress — behind to make the move to the U.S. Virgin Islands. “I wanted a simpler life,” says Damron, who today helps shelter animals on St. John find new homes.

BY RYAN JANNENGA

Q: What were doing before you moved to St. John?

A: I worked in Ivana Trump’s office at the Plaza Hotel in Manhattan. It was very demanding, but she was one of the hardest-working people I have ever met. After that,

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I worked for Universal, developing theme parks in California. That’s where I met my husband, Greg, who was the vice president at the time.

Q: So why this island?

A: I grew up on the East Coast, and my dad bought a

timeshare here at the Westin back when the concept was just starting out. It was easy to get here, so I came as often as I could.

Q: How long have you lived on St. John?

A: It’s been 13 years now.

Q: What type of work do you do with animals?

A: I’m the office manager at a vet practice called Canines, Cats & Critters, and I volunteer at the Animal Care Center of St. John. I’m involved with marketing, fundraising and organizing events. We also have a walk every Sunday for all of the dogs. The shelter is full of really healthy, good animals, and we work hard to find them loving homes.

Sometimes I even get to escort animals to the States when there’s an adopter there.

Q: Did you ever think you’d be living away from the continental U.S.?

A: Never! It was one of those things you always dream of, or you know someone who did it, but that was all.

Q: Have you ever thought about moving back?

A: No, we won’t. I like the sense of community here, where everyone knows you and everyone has your back.

Q: What’s it like day to day on St. John?

A: It’s goofy and weird — we have a blast. Living on an island gives you the freedom to be a little different. It has its ups and downs, though.

I’ve had to buy five truckloads of water in the past three months because of the drought. But I love the beautiful view everywhere I go.

Q: What are your favorite island activities?

A: Hiking, snorkeling and swimming. I always thought snorkeling was boring, but now it’s one of the most amazing and relaxing experiences.

An hour will just fly by in what feels like 15 minutes.

Q: What else do you do to keep busy?

A: I started a company called Amora, which makes room diffusers, air sprays and lip butters with an island vibe.

Our tag line is “Take Your Vacation Home With You.”

Z AC H S TOVA L L

LIFE HERE

See The World At Your Own Rhythm

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Move To

BASED IN BARBADOS

BY SUNSHINE FLINT

t’s the place where rum was invented, so you’re pretty much guaranteed to have a good time on Barbados. And why not treat yourself to its famous rum punch year-round? These developments span the island, from the powdery-white beaches of the west — known as the Platinum Coast — to the dramatic coral and limestone cliffs of the eastern shore.

I

THE CRANE Get a taste of history at this resort, which

opened in 1887 on the island’s east coast.

The original building, with 18 guest rooms, features 200-year-old coral stone walls and views over Crane Beach — consistently voted one of the best beaches in the Caribbean. The Carriage House restaurant, one of five on the property, is housed in the ruins of the original stables; there are also five pools, a shopping village and a day spa. The 40-acre gated property has one-, twoand three-bedroom units for sale for full

or fractional ownership — all can be put into the rental pool. Wholly owned properties range from $450,000 to $3 million. The Crane Private Residences is a separate community currently under construction; the first phase sold out, and the second phase is now on the market.

The two-, three- and four-bedroom homes have private patios or roof decks, some with plunge pools and large gardens, with prices from $803,000 to $1.3 million. Also in the works are

KNOW BEFORE YOU BUY Flights are 5 hours from New York, 3½ hours from Miami and 4½ hours from get permission from the Central Bank of Barbados to buy a property. Even though it’s a formality, the 44 ISLANDS

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45 single-story, stand-alone beach houses on Skeetes Bay, about 5 miles up the coast from The Crane; move-ins are slated for winter 2017. thecrane.com Try before you buy: From $410 per night OCEAN TWO Set on Dover Beach on the island’s south shore, this 70-room, four-star hotel-condo, built in 2011, is just 5 miles from the airport and a 10-minute walk from the bars, clubs and shops of St. Lawrence Gap. It offers a 150-foot pool, multiple restaurants and an adults-only rooftop pool and bar. The 34 one- and twobedroom condo suites are comfortably modern, with balconies and oceanfront or bay views; half are available for whole or fractional ownership. One-bedrooms start at $400,000, two-bedrooms range from $650,000 to $750,000. oceantwobarbados.com Try before you buy: From $340 per night

Above: Sugar Cane Ridge villa at Royal Westmoreland.

Left: Bottom Bay Beach.

Atlanta. • Nonresidents must purchase is void without it.

ROYAL WESTMORELAND This 750-acre resort and gated community on the swanky Platinum Coast is made up of multiple neighborhoods, or estates, designed around a Robert Trent Jones Jr. championship golf course. Amenities also include a clubhouse, tennis courts, a gym and four swimming pools, plus access to nearby Mullins Beach. The one- to three-bedroom Royal Apartments start at $395,000, semi-detached threebedroom villas on Sugar Cane Ridge begin at $1.45 million, and custom-built homes of four to seven bedrooms can run north of $5 million. There are also 63 lots for sale, including 30 on the new Lancaster Estate, priced from $1 million to $3.995 million. Five home designs are available — variations on the West Indies colonial or modern Caribbean style — or owners can custom-build their own, with design approval. royalwestmoreland.com Try before you buy: From $750 per night

JULIE AND GORDON BAYNE property owners at The Crane Hometown: St. John, Barbados Occupations: Owners of two local businesses in Bridgetown OUR THREE CENTS 1. We’ve owned a timeshare at The Crane for 10 years and always stay for a week in July, as do my parents and in-laws.

I grew up going to the beach there, and now our kids have grown up there as well. We love the energy of the property.

2. When we retire, we want to live there on a full-time basis, so we bought a Private Residence. The walls are up, the roof is on and they plan to finish next year. We’ll stay there in summer and rent it out in winter, and we hope to live there permanently in a decade.

3. We meet the same families year after year and spend time together. Many Barbadians have bought timeshares here; it’s a great value.

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LIFE HERE

My Island

THE DOUGH MAN The owner of The Pastechi House, a shop that serves up the

ARUBA

and while they were good, they deviated too much from the pastechi I knew as a boy, which was a half-moon shape and big — about 6 inches across. The version we make honors our heritage, and tourists really love them.

The recipe to the dough is a big secret — one I will take to my tomb. We managed to make a product that people think is baked, but it’s actually fried. It isn’t greasy, and it contains less sugar. We make the shell as thin as possible to not have too much dough in the stomach.

On a normal day, we make 5,000 pastechis. We supply hotels with a smaller version, served at welcome banquets and other functions.

I used to take my kids every morning before school to buy pastechis, and I always complained about the quality.

When my wife decided we should start our own business, I knew the pastechi was something I could improve.

We are a kind of United Nations in Aruba. In a way, there is no typical Aruban food because there are so many nationalities here: Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch and English, plus influences from India and other parts of Asia.

But the pastechi is very typical of the ABC islands.

I noticed that people from Venezuela and China were selling pastechis on island,

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The origin of the word pastechi is a mystery. It has no documented history, no connection to Spanish, Portuguese or English. It might come from the Dutch word pastei, for pastry.

Here on Aruba, we import everything. We have no agriculture of significance.

All food, all utensils — even the soil to grow flowers and the sand to make cement — everything is shipped here.

I love my garden. Mine is one of the most beautiful gardens on the island. I grow azaleas, bromeliads and other blooms mainly — one is so big my daughter calls it the Jurassic Park flower. I plant watermelons and, of course, basilica, or basil. The taste of

herbs that were shipped over on a boat is never as good, so we all grow basil at home in pots. My water bill is quite high, but I can live with that.

Tradition is big for the older generations — I’m fifth-generation Aruban. One small way you can spot the traditional Arubans is that we like to have one plant of aloe at the entrance. It’s said to bring happiness to the house.

To escape, I like to take walks on the beach in Arikok National Park. There are beautiful rock formations and Indian drawings. I recommend going when it’s not hot, either early morning or before sunset. It’s really quiet because not many people go. This is pure Aruba, the island I have loved so much since I was a boy. — as told to Brooke Morton

ą NAME Justo Lopez AGE 67 OCCUPATION Owner of The Pastechi House OTHER MUST-TRY ARUBA FARE At a meal, you eat either funchi or pan bati — never both.

• Funchi is like polenta. It’s made of corn, salt and butter, shaped into a 1-inch thick cake.

• Pan bati means beaten bread. You whisk a batter of flour, corn flour, egg and milk with your fingers, then pour it on a very hot plate.

F R O M L E F T: M A I K Y W E R N E T; LO O K D I E B I L D A G E N T U R D E R F OTO G R A F E N G M B H /A L A MY

namesake traditional fried Caribbean delicacy, is proud of his recipe — and the honor of being a fifth-generation Aruban.

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LIFE HERE

It has been called the “Fishing Capital of the World” and served as muse for Ernest Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea. Now there’s a mega-resort and casino, a sprawling marina and increased flights from the U.S.

CAN BIMINI SURVIVE A MODERN MAKEOVER?

Z AC H S TOVA L L

BY T.J. OLWIG

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Resorts World Bimini includes a Hilton hotel, a 10,000-squarefoot casino and the largest marina in the Bahamas.

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SILVER-HAIRED MAN ENTERS THE BAR AT THE BIMINI BIG GAME CLUB RESORT & MARINA AND STOPS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROOM, SCANNING IT FROM WALL TO WALL. “I HAVEN’T SEEN THIS PLACE IN 20 YEARS,” HE TELLS THE BARTENDER. “KALIK AND A RUM NEAT, PLEASE.”

A

It’s my first morning in this Bahamian that measures a mere 9 square miles.

“Bimini isn’t Nassau,” Marvin tells me. outpost 50 miles east of Miami, and Marvin is interrupting my seafood omelet.

But the local newspaper states other“Flew here thousands of times,” he goes on, wise. “Shaq Attack: Basketball great referring to his days as a Caribbean pilot. brings star power to Bimini,” the headline “I hear the island has changed quite a crows in a breathless story about a celebbit,” I say. rity event at Resorts World Bimini.

Marvin rolls his eyes and takes a swig I’ve yet to see what’s out there, but I’m of his beer. certain of one thing: If Shaquille O’Neal “Oh yeah. More cars. People dress nicer is here, Bimini is definitely getting bigger. too. It’s like South Beach swam to Bimini.”

Marvin doesn’t know it, but his words WHITE-PAINTED TOMBSTONES CROWD are the bait that brought me here. Bimini the oceanside cemetery. I’m standing — close to the U.S. but of the grid in char- at the southern tip of Alice Town, the capiacter — has been an idyllic retreat for a tal of North Bimini — the most populous certain type of tourist for decades. With of Bimini’s two main isles. vibrant mangroves and an abundant reef I note the last names of the departed. system, it’s been hailed as an aquatic Eden There’s very little variance. Saunders. Cash. by divers and fishermen. Rogue travelers Cash. Saunders. The last of which rings a cherish its funky shops and the warm bell. I’m meeting with an Ashley Saunders island community. that afternoon; he’s the owner of the But a recent surge in development, Dolphin House, a quirky guesthouse and spurred by Malaysian casino-giant the museum in town.

Genting Group and its $600 million On a small, quiet side street, I find the Resorts World Bimini, is luring a difer- brightly tiled building. “You lookin’ for a ent kind of visitor. Mega-yachters are tour, man?” a dreadlocked man calls out.

“Only if you’re Ashley,” I reply. flocking to its marina — the largest in the “That’s me.”

Bahamas at 280 slips — and hotshot gamI mention the cemetery’s residents. blers to its casino, the first in the world to have panoramic water views.

“Those are my relatives,” the 70-yearSince 2013, most visitors hopped the old historian and retired high-school Bimini SuperFast, a high-speed ferry billed teacher says. “We were the first ones here as “the fastest cruise ship in the Americas.” 200 years ago. It was the Indians, then us.”

At the beginning of this year, however, Ashley recalls the days when Bimini had operations ceased as daily flights were no electricity or running water. “Now we added from Miami and Fort Lauderdale. got people from all over the world.”

Genting plans to launch “a more eicient The island’s population is around 3,000 ferry operation” come spring of this year. and growing. Not an alarming figure, but The influx of tourists from both air on a sliver of sand that’s already congested and sea — upward of 150,000 visitors are — and thinner than a football field in expected in 2016 — has locals concerned certain spots — each additional footprint about an environmental fiasco to an island can be felt.

GET HERE Daily flights from Fort Lauderdale to Bimini on Cape Air and Silver Airways start at $250 round trip. Cape Air also offers seaplane flights from Fort Lauderdale and Watson Island, Miami, from $380 round trip.

STAY HERE The Bimini Big Game Club Resort & Marina in Alice Town opened in 1936 and was a former Hemingway hangout. It features 51 recently renovated rooms and suites, as well as a new pool, restored docks, a restaurant and a dive shop. Rooms from $150 per night, suites from $315 per night; biggame clubbimini.com

WHEN TO GO Year-round, but be mindful of hurricane season, June to November.

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Fisherman Ansil Saunders worries about the impact of development on his livelihood.

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So when asked about the development, Ashley is predictably skeptical.

“Biminites won’t work there, man,” he says of Resorts World Bimini. “There’s more money in one day of lobster fishin’ than being a busboy at a hotel.” A day on the boat might be more lucrative, but Melissa Rieder, public relations manager for Resorts World Bimini, tells me that 31 percent of their employees are from Bimini — nearly 10 percent of the island’s population.

RESORTS WORLD BIMINI OWNS HALF

of the developed land on North Bimini — roughly 2.2 miles. Alice Town, Bailey Town and Porgy Bay, where residents live and work, take up the same amount of land. To reach the resort from my hotel in the capital, I hop on a beach cruiser and cycle seven minutes down “The King’s Highway” — as golf carts, the main mode of transportation, zip by — to the island’s other end.

Entering the property is a return to the 21st century. The cadence of a rustic fishing village is erased by the blare of a pool party. Modest tropical digs are swapped for villas the color of Easter eggs. There’s a Hilton hotel, a 10,000-square-foot casino and row upon row of construction trailers.

Z AC H S TOVA L L (2)

BEFORE BIMINI HAD SPRING BREAKERS AND A 24-HOUR RUNWAY, VIEWS LIKE THIS WERE THE MAIN DRAW. FISHING AS WELL.

main draw. Fishing as well.

It was only in 2014 that a 1,000-foot perhaps the island’s most famous resident, “How’s the catch these days?” I ask. pier was built for the SuperFast ship. The having been a fishing guide to the likes of dredging infuriated activists over dam- Richard Nixon and Martin Luther King Jr. “The fish went to deeper water when aged marine habitat and the mess of mud “Tomorrow it’s the U.S. ambassador,” he says. the resort dug the canals, but they’re still that distorted the clear flats. The pier cuts Our boat arrives at the “Holy Grounds” here,” Ansil says.

He points to a red mangrove and gives through an area where most of North — the exact spot he took MLK in 1968. It was me a science lesson.

Bimini’s remaining coral reefs sit. in Ansil’s boat that Dr. King wrote his own Whether or not a new ferry arrives in eulogy. Today, a bronzed statue commemo“Fish come from the Gulf of Mexico to the near future, it might not matter. Grant rates the moment. spawn and nest right here. We need these We step out of the boat and onto a view- roots. They fight of hurricanes too.”

Johnson, a biologist who has done envi“Are they healthy?” I ask. ronmental research in Bimini for 14 years, ing deck. The sun is high, the sky is blue and Ansil pauses and does a double take of notes the damage to its ecology is irrevers- the mangroves appear to have no end. a plant nearest us.

Before Bimini had spring breakers and ible. “The SuperFast cruise is a gigantic red “I don’t know.” a 24-hour runway, views like this were the flag in the face of everyone who promotes mega-development in the Bahamas Out Islands,” he says.

Development has also impacted fish populations. Johnson says the removal of mangroves along the western shore RISKY BUSINESS: THREE TOURIST MECCAS ON THE BRINK of the North Sound lagoon has resulted in 52 to 67 percent declines in mojarra, soles, barracuda and silversides. (The latter are a crucial food source for sharks and other species.) He adds that sea grass has decreased by more than 50 percent; the plants are an important habitat for both the endangered green sea turtle and the economic-staple queen conch.

And the Genting Group is just getting started. Revised plans call for the lengthening of South Bimini’s airport runway to 9,000 feet, along with a 200-room hotel and a water-taxi terminal to shuttle guests straight to the resort.

“Resorts World will avoid a three-minute MACAU ride to the existing water-taxi dock just Despite 18 consecutive months of revenue decline, the Chinese haven of to keep guests away from Biminites and gambling continues to double down. Development is underway for Cotai 2.0, Macau’s second version of the Las Vegas Strip that will take its hotel-room their businesses,” notes the Bimini Blue total from 28,000 today to 42,000 by 2018. With 30 million annual visitors — Coalition, an anonymous committee of in a location one-sixth the size of Washington D.C. — one of the most densely activists and council members. The group populated places on Earth increasingly suffers from water and air pollution. insists they’re not anti-development but in CAPE VERDE favor of responsible growth.

Located off northwest Africa, this archipelago is a choice spot for Europeans Resorts World has spearheaded sevseeking sun and surf. It’s also home to the world’s third-largest rookery for loggerhead turtles. Their nesting grounds on the west coast of Sal, Cape Verde’s eral cleanup campaigns, but Johnson says most developed isle, decreased from 40 percent in 2013 to 10 percent last year. the water visibility has already declined.

Pollution, increased tourism and construction of a breakwater structure to give “Bimini was known as having some of the visitors ideal swimming conditions have further endangered the reptile. clearest waters in the world. That can’t be BALI said anymore.”

The Indonesian island is under serious threat from its estimated 12 million annual A FIVE-MINUTE BOAT RIDE ACROSS THE

bay are the mangroves. My guide is Ansil Saunders, 83, a renowned fisherman and

visitors. With resources being rerouted to hotels and restaurants, 50 percent of Balinese — over 1.7 million people — have lost access to water. Rice fields are disappearing at a rate of around 2,500 acres each year as farmers capitalize on sky-high real-estate prices. Bali’s pile of trash — generated by the influx of tourists — is so high that it’s even garnered a nickname: Mount Rubbish.

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Come with Islands to the Grenadines on a trip you’ll never forget

ON ASSIGNMENT 20 16

Our Favorite Caribbean Cruise is Back!

May 15-21, 2016 Join Islands staff photographers and Sail Windjammer for a seven-day cruise to remember. This exclusive trip to remote Caribbean outposts includes meals, excursions and photo tips. Special offer: A limited number of passengers can sign up for $2,379+ (your guest gets a rock-bottom discount).

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Awesome new friends, remote islands, crystalblue water, swaying palm trees, rum swizzles and attentive staff, plus incredible photo opportunities and advice on how to improve my skills.

See you in May — my cabin is booked!

Photo and testimonial by workshop attendee Dan Banfe

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58 WHAT’S NEW IN THE WORLD OF RESORTS

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STAY HERE Gili Lankanfushi, Maldives This private-island retreat is gov- they’re assigned a personal assistant, erned by a simple rule: “No news, no called Mr. Friday (a nod to Robinson shoes.” It’s easy to follow this mantra Crusoe’s pal), who will arrange spa in one of the 45 overwater bunga- treatments and diving. Gili recently lows; try a villa suite, with an open-air unveiled the updated Private Reserve, living room and a rooftop terrace, or the largest overwater villa in the the secluded Crusoe Residence, world. The first guest to land? reachable only by boat. Guests Astronaut Buzz Aldrin. From have free access to bamboo WHEN TO GO $1,385; gili-lankanfushi.com bicycles, tennis and yoga, and — Lilly LeClair

NOV TO APRIL

Dry season has less rain and humidity, though prices soar for the holidays. • Avoid peak monsoon season, June and July.

YOUR GUIDE TO CRUISING ALASKA

62 SIX RESORTS WORTH THE SPLURGE

S TAY HERE

New Now Next ORT RES ORT REP

BIRDS OF A FEATHER Gordon Lockie knows his cockatoos. He breeds rare and endangered birds at his sanctuary in North Queensland, and he recently built The Feathered Nest, a luxury-meets-ecofriendly wildlife retreat on his property near the Whitsunday Region. Choose from a one- or two-bedroom villa, each with floor-to-ceiling windows, a private aviary, an infinity pool, a fully furnished kitchen and an outdoor patio. At Breakfast with the Birds, a full brekkie is laid out on the main deck for both humans and their feathered friends, who flit about and provide a lively soundtrack. From $370; thefeatherednest.com.au

An Elite Makeover

Elite Resorts’ Long Bay Beach Club in Tortola, BVI, has been freshened up for spring, with a new beachfront pool and spa pavilion, plus the launch of Verandah, a fine-dining spot with killer ocean views. From $296; longbay .com

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JAMAICA’S SUITE RETREAT

Negril’s sprawling Moon Dance Resort welcomed a new era of indulgence on the island’s west coast when it reopened as the Cliff Hotel in December. Set on a promontory that inspired its name, the 33-suite resort has all the usual amenities of a Jamaican getaway — three bars, a locavore restaurant, beach access, a pool — along with one singular standout: general manager Mary Phillips, beloved for her 11 years at the helm of the Jamaica Inn. Make your way along the curvilinear pool and by gently swaying hammocks to the Ki’Yara Spa, where therapies incorporate homegrown ingredients used by indigenous Taino healers.

From $260; thecliffjamaica.com

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Starry, Starry Night COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY HEIDI MITCHELL

Devised by chef Mario Alcocer and Costa Rican astronaut Franklin Chang Diaz, Taste the Stars at the Four Seasons Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo takes advantage of the area’s dark skies. Six diners feast on red snapper with illuminated coconut cocktails, gazpacho with flavor “explosions” — even a real meteorite pulverized in au jus atop the surf and turf. $250 per person; fourseasons.com

CATCH THIS Chef (and Mexico native) Pedro Abascal fills us in on his sleek new restaurant, Catch, at the Thompson Playa del Carmen hotel, one of the latest hot spots in the Yucatan.

HOW WILL CATCH STAND OUT? It brings

THREE’S COMPANY Flanking the newly opened Amanera resort on the Dominican Republic’s north coast are two equally swanky properties: Playa Grande Beach Club (from $800; playagrandebeachclub .com) launched in December with nine designer bungalows; and the year-old Gansevoort Playa Imbert (from $485; gansevoorthotelgroup.com) just welcomed a third eatery, Aguazul, highlighting Japanese-Peruvian Nikkei cuisine.

1. Gansevoort Playa Imbert 2. Playa Grande Beach Club’s bar 3. A bungalow at Playa Grande Beach Club

an authentic, locally influenced vibe to a culinary and nightlife concept that people know and love. We want guests to visit the Maya villages, then return to Catch for a traditional wood-fired meal with typical Yucatan flavors on the terrace.

WHAT’S ON THE MENU? Sustainable

seafood and plenty of toasts, tostadas, and tacos, along with sushi, ceviche and grilled Baja oysters. Plus Mexican wines, local beer selections and mezcals.

WHAT SHOULD NOT BE MISSED? The truffle

sashimi is a specialty, with fresh tuna, hamachi, ponzu, caviar and shaved black truffle. For dessert, you must have the lime sorbet with toasted coconut cream and cilantro flakes. thompsonhotels.com

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S TAY HERE

Cruising

ALASKA BOUND Four reasons to explore the wilds of the Last Frontier this summer

BY BROOKE MORTON

GET CLOSER TO WILDLIFE In honor of the U.S. National Park Service centennial, Un-Cruise Adventures will launch 18 departures of the new itinerary, Exploring Muir’s Wilderness, aboard the 84-person Safari Endeavor, sailing from Juneau. This smaller cruise line is known for flexible itineraries that allow for longer Zodiac tours when groups encounter humpback whales bubblenet feeding. Likewise, sail-away times will be pushed when kayakers spot bears fishing on shorelines. From $4,695 per person based on double occupancy for a seven-night sail, offered May to September; un-cruise.com GEAR UP FOR ADVENTURE The one-year-old, Juneau-based company Adventure Flow — known for break-the-mold Alaskan cruise excursions, including guided trail-running tours — is introducing its own cruises of Glacier National Park aboard the S.V. Arcturus. Groups are limited to six to allow for nonstop adventures, including kayaking by moonlight and pack-rafting into the inner woods of Glacier Bay. From $3,120 per person based on double occupancy for a five-night sail, offered March to April; adventureflow.us

MINGLE WITH LOCALS This season, Alaska Dream Cruises will debut its 74-passenger vessel, Chichagof Dream, the fifth in its fleet. Thanks to its small size, the ship can slip into smaller harbors, including those of the towns Kake and Petersburg, plus Metlakatla, home to tribes of Tsimshian people. Also, onboard cultural heritage guides will relate the history and context of those you meet. From $3,379 per person based on double occupancy for a seven-night sail, offered June to September; alaskadreamcruises.com SATISFY YOUR FOODIE CRAVINGS The latest culinary experiences aboard Princess Cruises’ Alaska sailings start with a wide offering of regional seafood, plus dishes from local eateries like the Alaska Fish House in Ketchikan and Tracy’s King Crab Shack in Juneau. Aboard Ruby Princess, just-crafted menus by Australian chef Curtis Stone will be unveiled in the main dining room. Also new for 2016 is The Salty Dog, a gastropub serving small bites dreamed up by chef Ernesto Uchimura of the restaurant Umami Burger. From $799 per person based on double occupancy for a seven-night sail, offered May to September; princess.com

TAHITI THREE WAYS

Choose the South Pacific sail that’s right for you.

TRY A DAY TRIP Experiencing Alaska by boat is a must, but if you want to limit your time on the water, opt for a day tour with Stan Stephens Cruises.

Ferry around Prince William Sound on a seven- or ninehour tour (May to September), where you’ll spot whales, sea lions and puffins. stephenscruises.com

On the island of Hiva Oa, trek to a collection of tikis said to rival those of Easter Island. Each statue is believed to have its own personality.

A four-wheel-drive safari on Papeete grants access to the island’s scenic highlights, from forests of bromeliads to waterfalls. Bring your suit to go swimming in a local river while birds serenade you.

THE VIBE

Perfect for folks looking for big-ship amenities — and who also want to experience Sydney and New Zealand.

DON’T- MISS EXCURSION

Expect friendly service on this passenger-freighter vessel, which takes 254 guests to the more remote Marquesas Islands.

Posh but not pretentious, this 332-passenger ship is for those who want to go off the beaten path without sacrificing luxury.

Tool around in the ocean deep on a high-tech Aquabike. The underwater scooter is outfitted with dive tanks to explore shallow depths. Get close to brilliantly hued fish and coral — no mask or fins required!

ONBOARD MUST

Royal Caribbean’s Radiance of the Seas

At La Palette lounge, on the stern of deck eight, the back walls open to the night air, allowing guests to dance under the stars to live music. It’s known as one of the ship’s most romantic spots.

Because this is a working ship, passengers can mingle with the crew in the bars. It’s not uncommon for ukulele playing and singing to become the backdrop for happy hours, nightcaps and stargazing.

You can still perfect your pool game at sea, thanks to self-leveling tables in the Bombay Billiard Room on deck six. For a quieter escape, steal away to the pool at the adults-only solarium.

STANDOUT CABIN

Aranui 5

Book the Owner’s Suite and toss a complimentary cocktail party for eight, arranged by a butler. You’ll also enjoy welcome champagne, daily fruit and canapes each afternoon.

Equal in size to three normal staterooms, the Presidential Suite on the Sky Deck is for splurgers. On the other spectrum, Class C’s dormitory-style accommodations might not be for everyone, but it’s a less expensive sell for a single friend.

Guests in the one-bedroom Royal Suite with balcony needn’t have taken lessons to enjoy the baby grand piano — it plays itself.

Other perks include concierge service, a whirlpool tub, a living room with a sofa bed and a dining room that seats four.

RATES

M.S. Paul Gauguin

From $3,995 per person for a seven-night sail; includes airfare from Los Angeles; pgcruises.com

Staterooms from $4,678 per person for a 14-day sail; Class C rooms from $2,781; aranui.com

From $2,024 per person for an 18-night transpacific sail; royalcaribbean.com

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6

Where to blow your tax refund?

Try one of these over-the-top resorts.

SplurgeWorthy Retreats

1 Laucala Island FIJI

I still can’t believe we’re here.

I’ve been in disbelief since we boarded the resort’s private jet in Nadi for the 50-minute flight to this private-island paradise. Now I’m sitting on a couch in my villa’s living room, gazing at our own infinity plunge pool overlooking the Pacific, letting it all sink in.

The resort’s 25 villas — luxurious thatch-roof bures the size of small houses — are all amazing, but we’ve opted for the ultra-private Peninsula Residence, built into the edge of an oceanside clif. Upstairs is our bedroom, a sun deck and a rooftop hot tub; down below, our own secluded little stretch of beach. Sipping a glass of champagne from our personal bar — stocked with full bottles of premium spirits and wine — I contemplate my next move. This morning, it was a lovely massage at the hilltop spa. For a souvenir, I chose ginger and lemongrass grown in the resort’s organic garden, which were blended by a coconut press into an essential oil. The resort’s 14-boat fleet is convenient for getting out on the water. Tomorrow,

we’re diving Fiji’s famous rainbow coral, followed by a romantic sunset cruise on the yacht. Deep-sea fishing, sailing, Jet Skiing and kayaking are also options, should we choose to partake. Maybe we’ll book a tee time on the David McLay Kidd-designed golf course, but for now, I’m more than content with my glass of bubbly, this once-in-a-lifetime view and knowing the real world is far, far away. From $4,800 per night, all-inclusive; laucala .com — Rebecca Kinnear

Ride to secluded beaches on a horseback tour, stopping for a romantic picnic along the way.

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2. CAPE KIDNAPPERS HAWKE’S BAY, NEW ZEALAND

Stone facades, distressed wood and liberal use of metal: The Farm at Cape Kidnappers has an unusual, yet vaguely familiar design — sort of Colorado mountain-meets-modern style. But I’m definitely not in Colorado: I’m perched 1,000 feet above the Pacific, on New Zealand’s North Island.

Twenty-two accommodations on 6,000 acres afords a lot of elbow room — people are significantly outnumbered by sheep. I make eye contact with scores of them while on a long horseback ride — and on an even longer bike ride that takes me through the twisting trails of the 18-hole championship golf course designed by Tom Doak. I watch the sheep walk

nonchalantly along clif edges that look as if they might break of and tumble into the sea at any moment. New Zealand is worth the travel distance mainly because it delivers an immediate connection to the ends of a precarious and vividly hued Earth.

The property carries the rarefied Relais & Châteaux designation, which might seem incongruous given that Cape Kidnappers is a working sheep and cattle farm. But one meal is enough to dispel that: New Zealand has some of the freshest, most flavorful food on the planet. The onsite garden produces zucchini, strawberries, 37 different kinds of tomatoes and lettuce that I still rhapsodize over.

As for my favorite space, it’s the converted silo that’s now a cozy lounge. I stare out the louver windows at the technicolored green hills and the big blue ocean and fantasize about staying a little longer.

From $1,055 per night; cape kidnappers.com — Drew Limsky New Zealand’s rugged coast (top) is the setting for the luxe Cape Kidnappers (below).

3

Dorado Beach, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve DORADO, PUERTO RICO

Only three properties in the world boast the Ritz-Carlton Reserve title, and I’m en route to Dorado Beach, their closest resort to the U.S. We drive through the jungle-like, yet perfectly manicured grounds — a world apart from the chain restaurants we passed a mile back. Upon arrival, I’m greeted

by Carlos, my embajadore, or personal butler, who hands me a delicious frozen treat made from fresh mango. He guides me through the open-air lobby and shares a bit of background, like how the sprawling resort is set on 50 acres of a former Rockefeller estate. It was designed so that all of its 115 accommodations face the Atlantic, including oceanfront balconies, suites with plunge pools and multibedroom villas.

I try to play it cool when I see

Dorado Beach’s Positivo pool (top) and an outdoor treehouse pavilion at Spa Botanico (left).

the size of my Ocean Reserve room. Carlos ofers to make a reservation at Mi Casa, the restaurant by James Beard award-winning chef José Andrés. He also mentions the resort’s three golf courses and the treehouse treatment rooms at Spa Botanico, unique for alfresco massages.

Lounging on my terrace’s daybed is tempting, but Carlos is bringing a bike — my own for the duration of my stay — so I can explore the 11-mile historic Rockefeller Nature Trail. After a full day, I relax in my deep soaking tub, soothed by the sounds of serenading coqui tree frogs. From $1,499 per night; ritzcarlton.com — RK

Don’t miss a night kayak tour to Laguna Grande to paddle the bioluminescent bay.

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4 Sal Salis CAPE RANGE NATIONAL PARK, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

It might seem crazy to swim alongside the world’s biggest sharks, but that’s exactly what you come to Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef to do — swim with whale sharks — and Sal Salis is where you stay.

A two-hour flight north of Perth, Sal Salis is the only lodging located within the remote Cape Range National Park. The rustic-luxe camp has just nine kitted-out safari-style tents — complete with kingsize beds, screened-in, en suite bathrooms and sun decks with hammocks — strung along a ridge of red dunes overlooking the Indian Ocean.

On land, you can trek through the rugged Mandu

The spacious wilderness tents at Sal Salis include king-size beds and en suite bathrooms.

Mandu Gorge and the striated rock formations of Yardie Creek, spotting solitary black-footed rock wallabies and prickly echidnas. Watersports include kayaking to the Blue Lagoon to see humpback whales or snorkeling among colorful fish and stingrays.

But at Ningaloo Reef, it’s all about the whale sharks. Hundreds of these mammals — some of which grow up to 40 feet long — regularly migrate here, arriving to feed on blooms of plankton and krill from April to July. Whale shark excursion numbers are limited to just 300 people per day. Combined with the relative isolation of this region, it ensures

April through October is the best time to visit. Avoid Australia’s summer months, when temps

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5.

STEAMBOAT BAY FISHING CLUB NOYES ISLAND, ALASKA

that this is one of the most unique aquatic experiences around — and a far cry from the crowded day trips out to the Great Barrier Reef on the country’s opposite coast.

Back at Sal Salis, guests gather to compare photos from the day over sunset cocktails and canapes in the main open-air tent. Dinner is served at a communal, candlelit table, where the evening’s menu might include local specialties like pan-fried Exmouth tiger prawns paired with an Australian sauvignon blanc.

From $2,010 per person, all-inclusive, for three nights. salsalis.com.au —Eric Rosen

can reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

Reaching this anglers’ paradise isn’t for the faint of heart. The only resort — in fact, the only building — on remote Noyes Island, Steamboat Bay is accessible solely by seaplane, on a hair-raising flight over the glacier-filled Inside Passage. So why come all this way? Quite simply, it’s where you’ll find some of the world’s best fishing. Halibut, yelloweye rockfish, king salmon — some weighing in excess of 50 pounds — this is where they feed. So expect to catch plenty of fish, but don’t expect a typical rough-andtumble Alaskan fishing-lodge experience. Steamboat Bay is luxury all the way, from the boats (custom-built, heated cabin cruisers) to the food (gourmet three-course dinners) to the amenities (open bar, bayfront hot tub, onsite masseuse). And then there are the accommodations: The Lodge and newly built Residence — all honeyed native spruce, woodburning fireplaces and plush bathrobes — are limited to just 24 guests. So after a long day of hauling in your catch, relax in an Adirondack chair and soak up the pristine Alaska scenery — humpback whales included.

From $5,390, all-inclusive, for three nights; steamboatbay.com — Jennifer Ceaser

6.

BORA BORA PEARL BEACH RESORT & SPA MOTU TEVAIROA, FRENCH POLYNESIA I jump off the deck of my overwater bungalow — one of 50 at this French Polynesian resort — and find myself floating in a school of vibrantly colored parrotfish. The lagoon is less than 5 feet deep, a light shade of green. The bungalows frame the view of Bora Bora’s central, mountainous island — and adventure beckons. I swim farther out, to the distinct line where the water turns from green to deep blue as it drops hundreds of feet at once. As I tread water, an outrigger canoe approaches me from the main island. The oarsman stops before me, then motions that I should try out his canoe. He gets out and I get in; I try to paddle, but I repeatedly flip over, much to his delight.

Eventually he paddles off, laughing, and I take my sweet time swimming back, along with a great story waiting to be shared. From $404 per night; spmhotels.com — DL

ISLANDS’ 27TH ANNUAL

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ST. JAMES’S CLUB ANTIGUA Third Prize: Escape to the Caribbean for a four-night allinclusive stay at The St. James’s Club Antigua, including all meals and beverages, non-motorized watersports, tennis, nightly entertainment, tax and service charges.

MAINE MEDIA WORKSHOPS Artistic Merit: Win tuition for one week to the Maine Media Workshops in Rockport, Maine, where you can polish your skills.

Choose from classes like landscapes, photojournalism, night photography and more.

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CHEAT SHEET

J A D DAV E N P O R T

How to Get High Coloradan Jad Davenport on how to get high (legally) in the islands.

1. HIGH-LATITUDE CRUISING

2. FIRST IN FLIGHT

3. INTO THIN AIR

Nothing beats a voyage to Earth’s highest latitudes, the North and South poles. Sail with Lindblad Expeditions through the glacial South Shetland Islands on a twoweek Antarctic cruise, or head north on the “Land of the Ice Bears” cruise, which explores Norway’s remote Svalbard archipelago. expeditions.com

Learn to (sorta) fly where aviation history was made in North Carolina’s Outer Banks.

Kitty Hawk Kites in Nags Head will transform you into a bona fide paraglider pilot after just an hour of ground school. The towering sand dunes at Jockey’s Ridge State Park provide an ideal playground for your practice flights. kittyhawk.com

Rub shoulders with members of the Seven Summits Club, a group tackling the highest peak on each continent. In West Papua, Alpine Ascents leads climbs up the 16,024foot Carstensz Pyramid. Talk about bragging rights: Fewer people have stood here than on Mount Everest’s summit. alpineascents.com

EXPLORE THE FLORIDA KEYS WITHOUT A CAR

71 7+(6( 3+272ǩ EDITING APPS WILL IMPROVE YOUR SNAPS

CHEAT SHEET

How To

DOS & DON’TS

DON’T FORGET BUG SPRAY. The upper Keys and Everglades in particular are rife with mosquitoes.

DO REFER TO LOCATIONS BY MILE MARKERS. The locals do, so it will make directionfinding much faster.

DON’T EXPECT SAND. The Keys aren’t known for their beaches but for their dense mangroves and coral-clad shores.

DO WAKE UP EARLY AND TOUR KEY WEST. The turn-of-the-lastcentury charm is still alive and well at dawn; the only other traffic will be the free-range chickens and last night’s partyers.

DO CHOOSE A HISTORIC HOTEL. Cheeca Lodge & Spa on Islamorada is a half-centuryold favorite stay for Miami sports figures and presidential anglers. cheeca.com

DO A KEYS ROAD TRIP (BUT DITCH THE CAR!)

Most explore the 100-odd Henry Flagler’s railroad that miles of Highway 1 — stretchopened the Keys to touring from Key Largo to Key ism back in the early 1900s.

West — by car, but there are The Florida Keys Overseas B Y J A D D AV E N P O R T plenty of more interesting Heritage Trail has paved 76 options: by boat, by bike and miles of the original route, even by seaplane. with plans to link the entire 106 miles. AlIn the upper Keys, learn about the though large sections of Flagler’s sea bridges mainland U.S.’s largest coral reef by cruising and tracks have been washed away by hurrithe Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary canes, you can bike 2.2 traffic-free miles of the on daily tours out of Key Largo’s John century-old Seven Mile Bridge at Mile Marker Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Spirit of 47 on Marathon Key. Pennekamp, a glass-bottom, high-speed To reach the most beautiful beaches in catamaran, reveals the undersea world. the Keys, you’ll need a boat or a pair of wings.

In nearby Islamorada, historic Bud N’ Another 70 miles beyond Key West are the Mary’s Fishing Marina at Mile Marker 79.8 is Dry Tortugas, America’s most inaccessible a great place to charter a boat for casting a line national park. You can ferry over for $175 in Everglades National Park, a calm maze of round trip, but the flight on Key West mangrove islands full of snook and tarpon just Seaplane Adventures, with stunning views a few miles from the dock. of historic Fort Jefferson, is worth every Highway 1 follows the original path of penny of the $299 round-trip cost.

ISLANDS, VOL. 36, NO. 2, MARCH/APRIL 2016 (ISSN 0745-7847), is published 6 times a year (Jan./Feb., March/April, May/June, July/Aug., Sept./Oct., Nov./Dec.) with 4 double issues which count as 2 issues each by Bonnier Corporation, P.O. Box 8500, Winter Park, FL 32790; 407-628-4802.

One year, $24 in the U.S. For Canada, add $9 for postage per year. All other countries add $18. Copyright © 2016 by Bonnier Corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the written consent of Bonnier Corporation. Periodicals postage paid at Winter Park, FL, and at additional oices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ISLANDS, P.O. Box 6364, Harlan, IA 51593. Printed in USA. PUBLICATION MAIL AGREEMENT NUMBER 40612608 CANADA RETURN MAIL: IMEX, P.O. Box 25542, London, Ontario N6C 6B2

70 ISLANDS

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J A D DAV E N P O R T

DO SET OUT ON THE ROAD FROM MIAMI before 3:30 p.m. or after 7:30 p.m. to miss the height of the Keybound rush hour.

Photo Tips

PICTURE PERFECT Three software solutions that transform basic snaps into masterpieces.

BY JON WHITTLE

ADOBE LIGHTROOM Adobe Photoshop is so synonymous with photography that it has even become its own verb — just Photoshop it! But it’s also a massive (and costly) program that’s far too robust for the basic user. Enter Adobe Lightroom, whose sleek interface and deep image-processing capabilities are ideal for every level of shooter. Within its “develop” module (where the image manipulation occurs), you’ll find slider bars for everything — from basic contrast and saturation adjustments to advanced camera calibration options. The free Lightroom mobile app (with much less functionality) can sync with your Adobe account, allowing for seamless cloud editing on the go. $149, adobe.com

Experience the charm of this multi-cultural Island, San Pedro Ambergris Caye, with the comfort and conveniences of SunBreeze Hotel or SunBreeze Suites.

Both properties are conveniently located in San Pedro Town and offer modern amenities combined with Caribbean charm. Choose from the self-catering, seafront SunBreeze Suites boasting 20 fully equipped units with living, dining room, kitchen and private balcony, or SunBreeze Hotel with 43 rooms featuring partial ocean and garden views.

Book Now and Get the 7th Night Free! www.sunbreeze.net | EMAIL: sunbreeze@btl.net | TOLL FREE: 1-800-688-0191 www.sunbreezesuites.com | EMAIL: sunbreezesuites@btl.net | TOLL FREE: 1-800-820-1631

PHOTOGENE Available for both iPhone and iPad, this app truly shines on the latter. Photogene has the standard contrast, color balance, saturation and effects you’d expect, but it also gives users metadata editing, export resizing and options to remove noise. It can sync your files directly to Flickr, Dropbox, Facebook, Picasa and more, ensuring you won’t miss a beat between snap and share. Unlike most mobile apps, Photogene supports RAW files as well as JPEGs. $2.99, itunes.com PIXLR This app for both Apple and Android devices boasts over 2 million combinations of free effects, overlays and filters. Its robust adjustment and effects program also allows users to create collages with multiple images. Text effects and a selection of image borders and frames help polish your photo before posting. Amazingly, this gem of an app is free, but you can pay to expand its database of filters and effects. pixlr.com

All suite, ocean front Royal West Indies Resort is nestled on beautiful Grace Bay beach.

This amazing resort offers studio, 1 & 2 bedroom suites.

With exciting activities and sights nearby to enjoy it’s the perfect place for a wonderful vacation!

Welcome to Royal West Indies Resort.

reservations@ royalwestindies.com 1-800-332-4203 www.royalwestindies.com

BELIZE

ST MAARTEN, DAFFODIL VILLA

DAFFODIL VILLA on the beach.

Dutch side. Owner releasing rare weeks for rent in June/July 2016 Philipbeuth@gmail.com 239.593.7357

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The Club at Little Cayman, renowned for it’s carefree luxury lifestyle consists of eight units in either two or three bedroom floor plans. (800) 327-3835

theclubatlittlecayman.com ST. JOHN, USVI

ISLANDS

Luxury Villas

THE CLUB AT LITTLE CAYMAN

CAYO ESPANTO – A PRIVATE ISLAND Our five-star, world-class Belize resort is for the discriminating few who demand the best life has to offer. 888-666-4282 • aprivateisland.com

PARADISE VILLAS, LITTLE CAYMAN

Little Cayman’s all oceanfront resort.

12 one bedroom villas, seaside dining at the Hungry Iguana, and world class diving at Bloody Bay. Email iggy@candw.ky

paradisevillas.com

MAUI BEACHFRONT CONDOMINIUM

CATERED TO VACATION HOMES Your on-island villa rental experts since 1989. Whatever your holiday desires, we cater to you! Visit our award-winning website. cateredto.com

Watch the humpback whales from your private lanai, sleep to the sounds of the surf fifteen steps away. Come listen! $154 per night. (800) 742-7955

mauikondo.com 72 ISLANDS

APRIL

PUERTO RICO

BOARDSHORTSWORLD.COM

The world’s largest selection of board shorts & board skirts. Now available in any length you want.

Hand crafted in the USA.

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ISLAND COLLECTION FURNITURE

islandcollection.com

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DAVID P. VIRTUE

Express your passion & lifestyle with a hand-crafted band, available in 14K & 18K gold and platinum. Created in NH using 100% recycled gold and platinum. Full money back guarantee.

DavidVirtue.com

ST. CROIX, SHOYS BEACH

Lovely 3 bedroom villa. Large pool and deck. Gorgeous view. Steps from swimming, snorkeling, tennis, golf.

From $1800/week. 508-785-9895.

ECO SERENDIB VILLA AND SPA Eight elegant suites, spa, organic garden. Luxury resort amenities, private retreat exclusivity. Preferred pricing for those donating to “Preserve St. John” recycling program. 215-620-8809 • ecoserendib.com

shoysparadisefound.com APRIL

ISLANDS 73

Travel Partners

EL CANARIO “The Place to Stay” in San Juan, PR. Moderately priced newly remodeled rooms w/ flat screen TV’s and free WiFi. Walk to the beach, casinos, and nightlife.

800-533-2649 • canariohotels.com

ISLANDS

Create your own private paradise. We are a full line of hand carved, hand finished teak furniture made to your specifications. Each piece is architecturally drawn and designed by owner, Phil Carpenter. (407) 230-1186

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FREE TRAVEL INFORMATION! CARIBBEAN & BAHAMAS 1.

2.

6.

British Virgin Islands Nature’s Little Secrets. Over 60 pristine, beautiful islands.

A Mecca for watersports, world class resorts and intimate hideaways. PAGE 11 Cayman Islands Department of Tourism - Experience Caymankind, everything and everyone that makes a Cayman Islands vacation so unique. PAGE 4-5

SunBreeze Suites & Hotel A perfect vacation getaway conveniently located within a stroll from the quaint town of San Pedro Belize on Amergris Caye, Belize.

PAGE 71

FLORIDA 7.

Little Palm Island Resort & Spa - Exclusive Private Island resort. The Florida Keys’ most romantic weddings and honeymoon destination.

CRUISE/YACHTS VACATIONS 12. Paul Gauguin Cruises - Comfort and luxury with spacious suites and staterooms, water sports and an atmosphere of warmth and informality.

PAGE 19

13. The Moorings - Experience all-inclusive luxury and adventure aboard your own private yacht with captain and chef at your service!

PAGE 13

PAGE 7

3.

Elite Island Resorts - St. Jame’s Club Resort & Villas and The Verandah Resort & Spa - Two stunning all - inclusive beachfront resorts in Antigua, perfect for destination weddings and honeymoons, family vacations, or spa getaways. PAGE 14-15

4. Jewel Resorts/Hilton Rose Hall Resort & Spa - Jamaica’s premium all-inclusive adultsonly and family-friendly oceanfront resorts deliver luxury vacations unlike any other. PAGE 41 5.

Royal West Indies - Turks & Caicos - A luxurious beachfront hotel resort nestled on the shores of world famous Grace Bay Beach in the Turks and Caicos Islands. PAGE 71

MEXICO HAWAII 8.

9.

Aston Hotels & Resorts 26 Hotels and resorts on4 Hawaiian Islands to fit any lifestyle, taste or budget 37 Destination Residences - A premium collection os seven beachfront and golf-front resorts in Wailea and Mekena, Maui, Hawaii. PAGE 36

14. Palace Resorts - Offering allinclusive resorts in Mexico.

18. PADI - Vacations end, but diving is forever. PAGE 32 19. Thrifty Car Rental – Get out and have some fun! PAGE 43 MULTIPLE ISLANDS 20. Hard Rock All Inclusive Collection - Book your stay in the front row of paradise and experience the all inclusive vacation that includes it all.

PAGE 8-9

21. Sandals Resorts - Jamaica, Antigua, St. Lucia & the Bahamas - Voted the world’s best all-inclusive resorts for over a decade. PAGE 2-3

PAGE 47

SOUTH PACIFIC 15. Palladium Hotels & Resorts - Five-Star all-inclusive accommodations on some of the world’s finest beaches.

Perfect for a honeymoon or family vacation. PAGE 21 MISCELLANEOUS

10. Ka’anapali Beach Hotel - Fronting world-famous Ka’anapali Beach, Ka’anapali Beach Hotel is officially recognized as “Hawaii’s Most Hawaiian Hotel.” PAGE 36

16. Gravity Defyer - Gravity Defyer makes comfortable, protective shoes that help people achieve new levels of performance. PAGE 74

11. Outrigger Hotels & Resorts - Hawaiian tradition is the centerpiece of Outrigger’s two Waikiki beachfront hotels. PAGE 34-35

17. NAUI Worldwide - World’s largest non-profit dive training agency, offering high-industry scuba diving standards and educational programs. PAGE 23

22. Tourism and Events Queensland - Queensland, Australia is home to the Great Barrier Reef, amazing Indigenous and wildlife experiences and world-class coastal resort destinations.

PAGE 76-84

VACATION RENTALS 23. Catered to...Vacation Homes – St. John, USVI – PAGE 72 24. Cayo Espanto – Belize – PAGE 72

25. Eco Serendib Villa and Spa – St. John – PAGE 73

Free brochures, catalogs and other advertiser information. Simply mail the attached Reader Response Card, FAX tollfree to 888.847.6035, or visit islands.com/freeinfo for direct access to each Advertiser’s website and free information.

APRIL

ISLANDS 75

4

AKE

DR E A M

EXCLUSIVE TRIP FOR ISLANDS READERS

SLEEP ON THE GREAT BARRIER REEF LOUNGE BEACHSIDE IN THE WHITSUNDAYS CRUISE THE DAINTREE RIVER HUG A KOALA IN PORT DOUGLAS

POWERED BY

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Find Your

QUEENSLAND

by Terry Ward

DISCOVER YOUR DREAM TRIP TO ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND DIVERSE REGIONS OF OCEANIA, WHERE THE PALETTE OF ADVENTURE AND CULTURE STRETCHES ACROSS ISLANDS, RAINFORESTS AND BEACHES.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Islands has partnered with Tourism and Events Queensland and About Australia to create four of the most exciting tours to the State each with a distinct sense of place.

Be whisked off for a luxury boat trip to dive or snorkel the most remote stretches of the

ISLANDS ESCAPES tour. Explore Australia’s national parks in the INDIGENOUS ADVENTURE itinerary, or watch surfers carve the waves while dining at cosmopolitan restaurants in the COASTAL CULTURE escape. Need more down time? Lounge on iconic stretches of sand in the URBAN BEACH trip. With the Great Barrier Reef in the

perfect balance of pampering and adventure, Queensland is yours to enjoy – so dive in.

ITINERARY 1

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

DAYS 1 - 5

ISLAND ESCAPES

After a short flight to Hervey Bay from Brisbane, you’re off by ferry to spectacular Fraser Island.

Located on the southern tip of the Great Barrier Reef and granted UNESCO World Heritage status, it’s the largest sand island in the world – and a veritable playground for outdoor fun.

Spend your days exploring inland tracks and swimming at remote beaches during escorted 4x4 tours. Then retreat to the comfort of the luxury resort, Kingfisher Bay. From August to October, humpback whales migrating along the coastline add to the already mind-blowing views.

DAYS 6 – 12 It’s off to the beautiful waterfront city of Cairns for the next leg of the trip, where you’ll have some tough choices to make.

OPTION 1: Is quality time exploring the Great Barrier Reef’s pristine underwater world on your bucket list? Board Spirit of Freedom for three nights in paradise.

The luxury liveaboard has just 11 cabins, all with private bathrooms. Tanks and weights are provided for scuba divers.

Snorkelers find just as much to marvel at while finning over the Ribbon Reefs, a string of coral reefs known for their biodiversity. This area is a reserve, so you’ll have the benefit of a dive guide joining you on all of your outings, which adds to the exclusivity. After the boat life, it’s straight to Lizard Island for some R&R. The recently refurbished all-inclusive resort occupies a sugar-sand island that’s a protected national park and home to 24 beaches and lagoons.

Are you the outdoorsy type who loves

to stray from the beaten path but relishes finishing the day in the lap of luxury? Then the Islands Escapes tour is for you. Visit

aboutaustralia.com/deals/queensland for more information and exclusive pricing.

GREAT BARRIER REEF

MOSSMAN GORGE

OPTION 2: If sleeping on a boat isn’t for you, nothing tops the luxury of three nights at Orpheus Island Resort, known for its exclusivity. Picture the ultimate all-inclusive (no autograph seekers, just pampered vacation escape artists), set on an island within the Great Barrier Reef.

The setting is totally unspoiled, and the shallow snorkeling and dive sites fringing the island are home to over 1,000 species.

You can even spot manta rays from July to August. From Orpheus, it’s off to Port Douglas for three nights for day trips with Down Under Tours. Highlights include cruising the Daintree River, learning about dreamtime legends on a walk through the Mossman Gorge and strolling the sands of Cape Tribulation. Also on the itinerary is a visit to Wildlife Habitat, where kangaroos roam freely and you can hug a koala.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

DAYS 1 - 5

DAYS 6 - 11 You’ll leave Hamilton Island via a flight to Cairns. Then you’ll be transferred to your accommodations in Port Douglas, where a romantic sunset sail on the Coral Sea is a fitting welcome. Over the next few days, explore Australia’s aboriginal culture and its deep ties to the land. As guests of the Walker family for the Daintree Dreaming tour, your group will be divided into “hunters and gatherers” for activities like spearing crabs in the mangroves and foraging for berries. Then you’ll prepare a feast using traditional aboriginal methods.

You’ll learn about dreamtime and – if you choose – can finish the day with a customary smoking ceremony too. Optional add-ons during your stay in Port Douglas include a snorkeling or diving trip to the outer reef and Jungle Surfing (zip-lining) in Cape Tribulation.

INDIGENOUS ADVENTURE 11 DAYS/ 9 NIGHTS

ITINERARY 2

After arriving in Brisbane from Los Angeles, it’s a quick flight to Hamilton Island, the largest inhabited isle in the Whitsundays Islands National Park (part of the Great Barrier Reef).

The famous luxury hotel here is your home for the first two nights. You can meet koalas at the onsite facility, or rent a golf cart and scope out the island’s scene. If you prefer, schedule a tee time at the 18-hole golf course fronting the ocean on the neighboring island.

The next day, it’s off to one of the Whitsundays’ most magical locales as you cruise by catamaran to Whitehaven Beach.

Made almost entirely of white silica, the sand lends an otherworldly luminosity to the turquoise water. Soak it all in before heading back to Hamilton Island for the night.

Snorkeling on Hardy Reef on the Great Barrier Reef is up next. But this is no out-and-back excursion. When the resort’s daytrippers head back to Hamilton, you’ll stay with just 11 other guests for an unforgettable afternoon and evening on a pontoon floating above the reef.

Delicious alfresco meals are served, and cabin and open-air accommodations are available for sleeping. But the real highlight comes while snorkeling, when you’ll have the reef almost entirely to yourself. As darkness falls, it’s all about relaxing beneath a canopy of starlight in this silent piece of paradise.

After breakfast the next morning, weigh your options. Either return via boat to Hamilton Island, perhaps in time to enjoy the spa. Or opt to be whisked away from the pontoon by helicopter for the chance to spot Heart Reef from the air (it looks just like the symbol of love) before returning to the island for the night.

Do you love a vacation that mixes culture

with a good dose of adventure? Then the Indigenous Adventure tour is for you. Visit

aboutaustralia.com/deals/queensland for more information and exclusive pricing.

PORT DOUGLAS

HARDY REEF

ITINERARY 3

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DAYS 1 - 4

COASTAL CULTURE

After landing in Brisbane from Los Angeles, you’re whisked north to the quintessentially Australian surf town of Noosa for three nights.

Here, surfers carve the waves and kiteboarders buzz by like butterflies along the lush beaches and coves. But Noosa has a sophisticated side too. For dining out and shopping, you’ll love exploring Hastings Street’s eclectic cafes, bars and boutiques. A visit to the Australia Zoo, made famous by Steve Irwin, is unforgettable, with the chance to feed kangaroos and see dingoes and koalas. And a day trip to explore the beaches, dunes and inland tracks of Fraser Island, the world’s largest sand island, is also included in the fun.

12 DAYS/ 10 NIGHTS

DAYS 5-7

Do you love exploring culture but also

look for a vacation that celebrates the salt life?

Then the Coastal Culture tour is your pick. Visit

aboutaustralia.com/deals/queensland for more information and exclusive pricing.

AIRLIE BEACH

DAYDREAM ISLAND

Noosa is hard to leave. But more fine things await when you’re transferred south to Brisbane to hop a short flight to Airlie Beach. A sailingcentric town, Airlie is the gateway to the Whitsunday Islands. And a trip by sailboat around the Whitsundays is one of the highlights of your visit. Watersports of all sorts reign in Airlie, so consider some add-on activities too. Perhaps an island-hopping tour to see Daydream Island?

Or book a tour to the world-famous Whitehaven Beach, where the sand, made almost entirely of silica, lends an otherworldly hue to the turquoise water. Snorkeling and scuba-diving trips out to the Great Barrier Reef are another favorite way to enjoy the Whitsundays.

DAYS 8-12 Depart Airlie Beach by boat for Hamilton Island then board your short flight to Cairns. The main city in Far North Queensland, Cairns is a perfect cocktail of cosmopolitan restaurants and lively nightlife paired with a laid-back lifestyle ruled by the tides. Sailing, snorkeling and scuba diving the Great Barrier Reef are popular pursuits. During your four nights here, included activities range from touring the UNESCO World Heritage-listed landscapes of the Kuranda Rainforest to snorkeling or diving the Great Barrier Reef aboard Cairns’ newest dive boat, the racy Tusa 6. You’ll also enjoy a sunset dinner cruise on the sailing catamaran, Spirit of Cairns, and an outing to the cultural center at Tjapukai, where you’ll meet the Bama (indigenous rainforest people) and hear aboriginal dreamtime storytelling around a fire.

Foodies should make time to feast on Cairns’ multiculti dining scene and the atmospheric stretch of waterfront restaurants along the Esplanade, where Greek, Japanese, Balinese and Brazilian are among the many options.

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DAYS 1 - 5

DAYS 6 - 9 From the Gold Coast, your transfer takes you back north to Brisbane for three nights.

Queensland’s capital and the third most populous city in Australia, Brizzie (as the locals call it) is a riot of glittering high-rises, beautiful parks, a scenic riverfront, edgy galleries and a top-notch food scene. A city tour is the perfect way to get your bearings. Then, for something truly wondrous, spend a day at Tangalooma Island Resort, reached via catamaran from Brisbane. Originally a whaling station, the island is now one of the few places in the world where you can stand in the water and hand-feed wild bottlenose dolphin. As many as 10 dolphins arrive on the beaches every evening to feed.

Back in Brisbane, make time to experience one of Australia’s top foodie cities. Local produce is at the forefront of the casual yet sophisticated restaurant scene that stretches from the hilltop ‘hood of Paddington to Kangaroo Point, encompassing everything from innovative Australian eateries to American smokehouses, authentic Asian nosh spots and beyond.

URBAN BEACHES 9 DAYS/ 7 NIGHTS

Do you like your beach time

balanced with urban excursions?

The Urban Beaches itinerary might be the vacation you’re looking for. Visit

aboutaustralia.com/deals/queensland for more information and exclusive pricing.

BRISBANE

GOLD COAST

ITINERARY 4

After arriving in Brisbane from Los Angeles you’ll head south to the Gold Coast, known for its long sandy beaches. The sophisticated coastal community of Broadbeach (or “Broadie,” as the locals call it) is your base for four nights.

Here, pretty parks edge up to weekend markets, street artists perform for the crowds and all roads lead to the beautiful oceanfront, lined with international restaurants, cafes and bars.

Romantic walks on the beach at sunrise and sunset are favorite rituals for locals and visitors, and there’s a 24-hour casino if you require even more excitement.

During your stay, you’ll visit Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary, an eco-minded facility home to koalas, lorikeets, kangaroos, crocodiles, wombats and other native Australian fauna (petting a kangaroo and cuddling a koala is par for the course here). Then you’ll spend another beautiful day being swept away by small plane to Lady Elliot Island in the Great Barrier Reef for a look at the native reef fish, sea turtles, giant clams and colorful corals. Enjoy a guided snorkel tour, glass-bottom boat trip and buffet lunch.

Surfing lessons are among the optional tours to consider while you’re in Broadbeach. And you can also opt to see the incredible Natural Bridge waterfall in World Heritage Springbrook National Park, where water cascades through the roof of an ancient cave while light from the surrounding rainforest streams in.

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MAKE IT HAPPEN ITINERARY 1: ITINERARY 2:

ISLAND ESCAPES

INDIGENOUS ADVENTURE

ITINERARY 3 :

COASTAL CULTURE

ITINERARY 4 :

URBAN BEACHES

WHY?

HOW?

WHEN?

Queenslanders have the Great Barrier Reef for a backyard and endless islands, rainforest and open spaces to explore.

And this wonderland can be yours to enjoy too. Picture yourself plying the turquoise waters of the Whitsunday Islands or exploring the shifting sand dunes of World Heritage Listed Fraser Island by 4x4. A day living the Queensland life could also see you snorkeling in crystal-clear water alongside minke whales on the remote Ribbon Reefs or marveling the mysterious Daintree Rainforest. Round out all this wild fun with stops in sophisticated cities and uniquely cultured little coastal towns.

About Australia specializes in personalized travel and is run by native Aussies who know the lay of the land.

We partnered with them to create unique coastal-inspired itineraries in Queensland, the country’s second largest state. The feature on the previous pages showcases the details of eachof those escapes, but the team at About Australia can customize just about anything for you. Give them a call at 888-359-2877, email them at travel@aboutaustralia.com, or visit the Islands deals page on their website, aboutaustralia.com/deals/queensland.

Queensland spans several climactic zones, from Tropical North Queensland, to the milder but still balmy reaches of Southeast Queensland. Most anywhere you go, weather changes have more to do with a change in humidity than vast temperature differences. Chances are you’ll never need more than a light sweater on that rare cooler “winter” night.

Basically, any time of the year is a great time to visit Queensland. But keep in mind that the holiday season coincides with school summer break in Australia, with December through February being peak travel season.

Discover Queensland’s Top 5 Experiences 1.

Experience Australia’s Natural Wonder of the World, the Great Barrier Reef, the planet’s largest living structure with over 3000 individual coral reef systems and hundreds of picturesque tropical islands.

2.

Step into Queensland’s unmatched World Heritage recognized National Parks, including the 130 million year-old Daintree Rainforest, with an Indigenous guide for an enchanting narrative of the rainforest.

3.

The pristine waters of the Pacific Ocean offer many different Great Barrier Reef Islands to experience, ranging from remote and luxurious through to eco-friendly and idyllic.

4.

Cuddle a koala at iconic wildlife attractions across Queensland, one of the only places in Australia that visitors can hold our famously cute native marsupial.

5.

Queensland is home to some of the best beaches in the world. Whether you love surfing and adventure or just lazing around on the beach all day, the possibilities are endless.

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