The Story of Peermade - George Thengummoottil (ISBN : 9788192888606) by George Thengummoottil

PEERMADE TH E STO RY O F

Story of a little plantation town called Peermade in the Western Ghats of Kerala.

GEORGE THENGUMMOOTTIL 1

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DEDICATED TO The pioneers of plantation industry in Kerala and the People of Peermade

IN REMEMBRANCE OF 2003-2006 Bachelor of Computer Science Batch at Marian College Kuttikkanam

MADE BY

W W W. T H E I N D I A . I N F O

SUPPORTED BY

BRITISH ASSOCIATION FOR CEMETERIES IN SOUTH ASIA

FOREWARD It was year 2003, and I was doing my graduation studies at Marian College, a catholic church managed residential college amidst a plantation town called Kuttikkanam in Kerala. Situated at an altitude of more than a thousand meters above the sea level, the campus was surrounded by green lofty hills and beautiful deep valleys. My batch, 2003-2006 batch was one of the most lucky and pro-active batches in the history of college: the first batch to enjoy the newly constructed hostels and installed technical infrastructure. Our hostel administration was very strict during our first year but things changed slowly and became more or less like an IIM campus by the time we reached our third year.

and facts to learn more stories. I met the many pioneers in the plantation industry, who narrated me the stories about the conversion of dense forests to tea plantations a century ago and the evolution of the township. This book is an assembly of the jigsaw of stories told by the many legends of Peermade combined my collection of photographs I shot during my studies.

Located in the Western Ghats, the natural beauty around the college mesmerised me. While most of my classmates enjoyed short-talks during evenings after class, I enjoyed venturing out into the country side around. Evening walks to the villages nearby became very much habitual and trekking to hills around used to be the only programme during weekends. Slowly I was followed by more and more friends and I had about 50 friends who accompanied me for treks. As a young boy, I was very curious about the stories of the old bungalows, looking like ghost houses in the tea plantations. Tales told by the local people about the old English ghosts and powerful primordial gods fuelled my curiosity. All these fascinated me really well that, I went out looking for the clues

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MONSOON MAGIC

Heavy rains at the Yenthayar valley seen from Kolahalamedu in Vagamon. The International Paragliding Festival of Kerala takes place at Kolahalamedu every year.

INTRODUCTION Peermade (GPS : 9.5505100°N 77.0302580°E ) is a hill station in the Idukki district of Kerala State, India. Peermade, a part of the Western Ghats or Sahyadris and is situated at an altitude of about 914 meters above mean sea level. The location of Peermade is 85 km east of Kottayam, (Nearest Railway Station) on the way to Kumily and Thekkady. Periyar National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary at Thekkady, one of the largest wildlife reserves in India, is just 43 km from Peermade. The landscape of Peermade is hilly with spectacular waterfalls, open grass lands and forests. Peermade was once the summer retreat of the Maharajas of Travancore. Peermade receives a lot of rain during the monsoons as it is situated on the western windward side of the Western Ghats, facing Arabian sea. The meaning of Peermade is “hill of the Peer”, is also written as Perumade and Pearmadu, though the accepted spelling is Peermade. The name Peermade is sometimes related to the Sufi saint, Peer Mohammed who is said to have visited Peermade. Other stories say that, the name must have originated due to the abundance of bonsai guava trees near Peermade: or “Pera Medu” which means hill of guava plants in malayalam. Like other parts of Western Ghats, the soil at Peermade is

not very deep on the hills and is not suitable to the growth of huge trees. However the valleys and plateaus have good deep soil, due to weathering. Before human settlements, this part of western ghats was just a fifty kilometre wide shola forest running entirely across the width of Western Ghats. The forests at the fringes were cut down and the natural sholas were replaced with cash crops during the past century. The plantations were mostly exotic like Tea, Coffee and Pine: which remain to be the most abundant plantation around Peermade still. Many planters at Peermade are now working on the production of organic black pepper, white pepper, ginger and turmeric. The early people of Peermade were tribes who lived along the fringes and slopes of the hills. The clearing work of the forests was administered by the Europeans. Labourers were brought/bought from the then adjacent kingdoms of Madurai (Tamil Nadu) and Travancore (Kerala). Today Peermade is a popular tourist destination, receiving thousands of visitors every day. Only a handful of aboriginals are left and the place is known for educational institutions and meditation centers.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

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1. HISTORY OF PEERMADE ..................................7 A long Time Ago ............................................................9 Kings and King-Ships .................................................11 First Forest Conservator ............................................12 Arrival of Henry Baker to Peermade .....................13 Mundakayam of Herons Pool .................................14 Expeditions of Henry Baker .....................................15 Roads to Peermade ....................................................16 Cars to Peermade ........................................................17 Ropeway to Peermade ..............................................19 Flood of 1924 ................................................................20 From flood to the present ........................................22

2. PEOPLE OF PEERMADE..................................25 Mala- Arayans................................................................. 26 Mannan............................................................................ 27 Uralis................................................................................. 28 The present people.................................................... 29 3. CLIMATE OF PEERMADE.................................31 4. PLANTATIONS AT PEERMADE........................35 5. SIGHTS AND SOUNDS.................................... 43 6. ACTIVITIES...................................................... 63 7. EXPERIENCES....................................................... Making Acknowledgements

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HISTORY OF PEERMADE

The hills

Tea plantations below Annan Thampy hills, near Elappara, eight kilometer north of Kuttikkanam. This chain of hill spans half way across Western Ghats and is the highest in this section with an altitude of 1500 meters.

PALLIKKUNNU CHURCH

The old CSI church at Pallikkunnu.

Couple of centuries ago, these hills: The Western Ghats were wrapped with thick evergreen forests. Few tribal hamlets of Mala Aryans scattered along the lower fringes of the hills. They lived a very simple life, worshiping their primordial gods and had a great respect for nature. The fear of nature: their god, never allowed them to over exploit the natural resources of the forests and natural resources. 9

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A LONG TIME AGO Long time ago, these tea plantation hills were covered with thick forests, nourished by the annual monsoons. A few tribal hamlets of Mala-pandaram and Mala-aryans were the only human inhibition. They were satisfied with the fresh food from the jungle and lived in primitive simplicity. They had almost no contact with the outside world and visited the towns down the valley only to trade the forest produce for salt and cloths. Meat of the Indian Gaur (previously misnamed as Indian Bison) which occasionally disturbed their settlements was usually consumed.

can still be seen often along the hills near Kumily, overlooking Periyar River. Several of their stone coffins have been excavated near Vandiperiyar (A town 15 Kms east of Peermade on way to Thekkady. These hills (Western Ghats) were a barrier between the kingdom of Travancore (Kerala) and Madurai (Tamilnadu). A forest road across the hills connected the two kingdoms and the section at Peermade was the highest point on the route.

Archaeological evidences say that people have been living along the high ranges during the very ancient times and excavations prove that these hills were once colonized by Neolithic people. Even though written records doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t say about their existence, traces of their cultural remains which were left,

Written records about the history of Peermade tell the story of about a little more than a hundred years. It says about the rule of the local Kings and the British and the set up of tea and coffee Plantations from dense forests ruled by Tigers and Elephants. Adivasis lived in the deep forests, they were the masters of

THE MAJESTIC HILLS

The hill commonly known as Amruthamedu, seen from Kuttikkanam. This hill used to be one of our evening trekking spot. On a clear day, the Arabian Sea can be seen from the pinnacle, at an altitude of 1350 meters above sea level Amruthamedu was wrongly considered to the second highest peak in South India for a long period of time.

TRIBAL WOMAN

An old woman from a tribal hamlet. 11

the hills who were well adapted to live inside the thick forests dominated by venomous snakes and wild animals. They lived usually inside small houses built on the top of large trees called “Erumadam” (a kind of primitive Tree House) from where they could get a birds-eye view of their surroundings. The Erumadam had its walls and the roof made by stitching leafs and animal skin together on a strong platform tied firmly to the branches of tall trees. A ladder made of bamboo trunk or ropes (mostly from creepers) connected it to the ground (usually hung down) and was used as an entrance by the dwellers. They had a good watch on the animals passing nearby which were then killed by throwing stones or sharp objects so as to gather meet for food. The Adivasis used elephant corridor to traverse inside the forests considering that elephants had a fixed path along which they roam for food and water. They used bows and arrows to scare the ibex, a relative of mountain goat with thick rigid horns that lived on the rocky cliffs. They never had any knowledge of the developments which took place in the modern world and were unconcerned by the knowledge of the millions who lived in the plains. Nobody from outside world dared to trek through thick forests to reach the high ranges due to the fear of wild animals, and venomous snakes.

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TREE HOUSE

“Erumadam” (a kind of primitive Tree House) in which the early inhabitants lived. They could get a birds-eye view of their surroundings. from the tree house. They had a good watch on the animals passing nearby which were then killed by throwing stones or sharp objects so as to gather meet for food.

KINGS AND KING-SHIPS The cardamom hills were surrounded by many small and big kingdoms ruled by a king or Maharaja. Travancore was one of the states near the hills. The king of the state was the Maharaja Martanda Varma. Most of the kings were puppets under the Europeans who came to India to trade spices. With time more and more Europeans settled in India leading to several British and Dutch colonies in India. The administrative organization of the British in India was called The British East India Company. During the 1750â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s Martanda Varma began to capture its neighbouring smaller kingdoms, and emerged as a sizable kingdom. The East India Company too helped in the process, as they thought that it would give a treat to the state of Cochin which was under the control of the Dutch. The affinity between the East India company and the Travancore Rajas again strengthened during the campaigns of Tippu Sultan who came from the North of Kerala. The Travancore rajas were not able to overcome the treats from the north and were helped by the British. This resulted in a treaty by which the British company promised their assistance in an event of

attack by others. And in return the Travancore Rajas appointed a British resident in the court of Travancore After the defeat of Tippu in 1799 the ruler of Travancore had no major opponents and was free to turn his attention to the administration of his territories. One of the areas was this unexplored hilly area called Cardamom hills which formed a part of the principality of the Poonjar rajas. The Poonjar rajas claimed to be an offshoot of the Pandyan dynasty of Madura. Their ancestors were supposed to have taken refuge in these hills after a drastic struggle and the family settled in Poonjar, at the foot of cardamom hills.

SUMMER PALACE

The summer palace of Travancore Maharajas at Kuttikkanam

FIRST FOREST CONSERVATOR The Travancore rajas laid claim of all timber grown in the cardamom hills as it became an important source of revenue. Between 1817 and 1820 the whole of Kerala was surveyed for Natural Resources and Land patterns by Lieutenants Ward and Cannor companies. A conservator was appointed to monitor the falling of timber and cardamom collection inside the forest.

Colonel Munro became interested in the welfare of Syrian Christians once a thriving and influential community who were in a depressed condition at that time both socially and economically. He requested the Church Missionaries Society (CMS) to send missionaries to Travancore.

The first conservator was Urban Verses Munro, son of Colonel. John Munro - the British resident from 1810 to 1819 who was the Divan to the Travancore Ranis, Lakshmi and Parvati Bhai in 1820. Colonel Munro was a forceful personality. While maintaining the dignity and prestige of the Raja, lawlessness and corruption were put down.

DENSE FORESTS

Dense forests of Idukki Wildlife Sanctuary. These forests have thick undergrowth and undergrowth foliage reaching canopy.

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ARRIVAL OF HENRY BAKER TO PEERMADE One of the First missionaries was Henry Baker Senior (17931866) who arrived from Tanjore (Tamilnadu) to Kottayam in 1819. Henry Baker played a very important role in the development of the Travancore and Cardamom Hills until his death in 1866 at Kottayam, The Bakers are chiefly remembered for their contribution in the field of education. After his arrival at Kottayam he opened the first school of Travancore with 11 students, 6 boys and 5 girls. Reverend Henry Baker Senior had 3 sons, Rev Henry Baker Junior, George Baker and Robert Baker. Bakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eldest son Henry was born at Tanjore in 1819 and was send to England to complete his education. He married the daughter of his school master; Reverend Isaac Kitchen, named Ann Kitchin. In 1843 Henry Baker Junior returned to Kottayam to take up his duties as a missionary like his father. Henry Baker Junior was a tall athletic man, capable of great

endurance and was very much interested in wildlife and animals. He was an active member of the Royal Zoological Society of Britain and preserved a very useful and interesting collection of fishes and plants. He was first send to work at Pallom (Pallom is a small village on the highway from Kottayam to Trivandrum near Alapuzha). After five years he was approached by a deputation of MalaArayans(Hill â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Arrians), who asked him to post a missionary at their locality.

WAY TO CROSS

Way to the cross built in memory of crucifiction of Jesus Christ at Palkulamedu, 10 kilometers from Kuttikkanam.

MUNDAKAYAM / HERONS POOL Rev. Baker was really interested in helping the Mala Arrians. There were only eight missionaries at Travancore during that time, and he himself was very busy. The conditions were not favourable for him to appoint a missionary on to the hills The mala-Aryanes kept on requesting the same, and at last he promised to meet them at a place near a river, called â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Mundy Kayamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; a place about 45 miles east of Kottayam. Mundy Kayam was a small pool, which housed a lot of Heron Birds. The Malayalam term of Heron is Mundi and pool is Kayam, which gave the name Mundakayam to the place. Now, Mundakayam, a town at the foot of the Cardamom hills (20 Kms west of Kuttikkanam) and is the current border town between Idukki and Kottayam District of Kerala :called entrance to to High ranges. In 1848 together with his brother George who lived at

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Kumarakom(Backwaters near Kottayam ) he trekked through the jungle and reached the bank of the river at Mundakayam. Following that he began to spend two weeks of every alternate month with Mala-Aryanes in two huts (one at the top and another at the bottom) on a big tree, at Mundakayam. At-times he was accompanied by his wife too.

GRASSLANDS

The never-ending cascade of grasslands, at Kolahalamedu View Point near Vagamon. The very little top soil prevents the growth of trees on this terrain.

EXPEDITIONS OF HENRY BAKER Baker never loved to remain stagnated at Mundakayam. He travelled along the surrounding countryside twenty miles in all directions, visiting the scattered hamlets of the Mala-Aryans. The forest was so thick that the only way to move was by foot walk. During one of his journeys he ascended the hills and reached Peermade by a trail that winds the cliffs near Vagamon. Lack of proper roads, steep ascents and fear of attack by wild animals prevented many people from climbing up the hills. Baker believed that one should not halt on obstacles but override them. The high altitude flora and the pleasant climate attached him so much to Peermade. The conversion of the hills from thick forests to plantations was done by Baker and his family, after getting necessary permissions from the Travancore Rajas. Mrs Henry Baker was also interested in doing plantations and she helped in getting funds for clearings. He was also helped by his brothers George and Robert. They employed coolies from

Kottayam for the clearing works. Initially they planted coffee and cardamom. Henry baker is not only known as a planter. He was the hands behind the beautiful church at Pallikunnu near Peermade. He was the first Pastor of the Church. Henry Baker died in Madras in 1878, ten years after his father’s death. Even now the Bakers family is respected for the works they have done specially in the field of education. The Baker memorial School in Kottayam and the College at Kottayam are his contributions. Baker is chiefly remembered as the “Apostle of the hills”.

HIGHLANDS

A barren hill seen from Kuttikkanam. Aread with an altitude above 1200 meters around Peermade is mostly rocky with little or no top soil.

ROADS TO PEERMADE More and more people were employed to work in the plantations. More workers were required to clear the forests and protect the settlements from wild animals. This lead to the increase in population and gradually overtook the tribal population. Bakers were joined by their cousin, JD Munro (John Daniel Monro), son of Urban Vigors Munro, conservator of forests. He opened up several estates at Peermade before his death in 1895. It was JJ Munro who cleared the trail to Peermade from all directions for caring goods and People. Coffee and tea grown in Peermade was first transported by coolies as head loads to Mundakayam and then to Kottyam by motor vehicles for shipment abroad. In no time several British planters settled along the hills and started plantations clearing the forests. There were nearly ten estates around Peermade, but the roads connecting them were not in a good condition. The road connecting Mundakayam and Peermade was still the elephant corridor, a narrow route, which was not properly maintained. The road started from the foothills, present day 35th Mile,

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ascending to the peak of the hill and then moving along its brim to reach Peermade crossing present day Murinjapuzha, overlooking Peruvandanam .The present day road is a reconstruction of the road which was destroyed by the flood and landslide of 1924. The construction of a good road became an important topic of discussion, so as to carry goods and passengers up and down the hill .The width of the tracks were increased so that carts could be pulled by horse. Estate Managers and the rich, were the first lucky ones to ride horse cart along the narrow roads. There were horse sheds at Peermade and Mundakayam. Often it was very difficult to carry food from and to other places along this way. The roads were narrow and only one cart could go side by side. It was said that â&#x20AC;&#x153;I consider a tour round the ten estates to entail as much wear and tear as would twenty estates of the size of Sri Lankaâ&#x20AC;?

Barren hills at Vagamon.

The shallow depth of top soil allows the growth of only grasses on these hills. The grasses are green only during the rainy season and turns dry during summer.

CARS TO PEERMADE JA Richardson was the first man to bring his Napier car to Peermade, driving it along the narrow cart road from Mundakayam. But after its first momentous appearance at Peermade it was lodged at Mundakayam and rarely driven to Peermade until 1915 as the cart road was scarcely motor able. JA Richardson (1869-1932) - JAR was a planter who arrived from the district of Piggott in 1905. On the other side (east) towards Kumily (Tamilnadu border), things were moreover the same. Travellers travelled on horseback down to Kumily and then bullock cart to the nearest railroad at Ammanayakanur (Nilakottai Taluk, Dindigul, Tamilnadu). The Bulls were to be changed every five miles even though the roads on this side seemed little better. When a governor visited Madura and insisted on using one of the new motor cars, a carriage and a pair of bulls was sent along behind!

coffee crops as well as food grains up and down the 14 mile long Peermade Ghat from Peermade to Mundakayam. Thick layers of clay, prevented riding carts over the unsurfaced roads. The roads were not used for cart riding during the monsoons. It was very difficult to get sufficient water and pastures for the animals or bulls during the dry season between February and April. In 1912 there was a strike of bull owners which resulted in a big chaos, halting the whole business. The planters association decided to buy own bulls and carts to solve the problem of caring goods and tea from Kolickanam (A place near Vagamon) to Kottayam.

Every year monsoons gave a lot of rainfall which end up in wetting the forest with excess water draining along every gully of the hills. The season after monsoon were the good time to plant seeds. The monsoons were a major threat to the roads as it used to wash away the hard surface soil and destroy the tracks which were already churned up by the wheels of bandy Overlooking Valleys carts that creaked slowly along the highway. Dozens of these carts were needed to transport the tea and

Complex fringes of hills descending to planes at Kirishimala, near Vagamon, 15 kilometres from Kuttikkanam.

JA Richardson was having trouble to agree with the carting arrangements but fortunately he had already arranged to bring two, three ton Motor lorries from England during the strike, to carry goods and passengers, between Peermade and Kottayam. JJ Richardson brought the lorries to Peermade in 1912 and was a great success in helping the movement of goods and passengers along the ghat Road. These Lorries which used coal gas as fuel were called Soarer Lorries in due of the Soarer engines, they used. Coal is converted into coal gas, by cranking a handle for about 15 minutes. Coal gas was mostly used to run buses in 1940-1945 during 2nd world war, due to non availability of petrol. Later JAR ordered two larger ones hoping to make the transport more efficient. But it was not able to climb the ghat and was a failure.

Barren hills at Vagamon.

Riding vehicles over these hills has created these permanent marks on the surface.

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ROPEWAY TO PEERMADE Kuttikanam is about a kilometre up the hill than Mundakayam. To make transport simple, Richardson proposed for a ropeway to Mundakayam from Kuttikkanam. The â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mundakayam Peermade Motor Transport And Aerial Ropeway Co Ltdâ&#x20AC;? was formed in 1914 with Richardson as the chairman to construct a rope way between Mundakayam and Peermade. A survey for the rope-way was performed immediately but unfortunately the First World War broke out simultaneously and the ship bringing the machinery for the rope-way was destroyed by the opponents in 1916 at the Mediterranean. The plans for the ropeway did not dissolve out and in 1924 the ropeway was constructed. But it proved that it was inpracticable to carry along the ropeway and it was abandoned within a few years.

by bullock cart. In 1923 and then on a bus service started to Kottayam that had to turn round and go up the hills in reverse. If the supply of petrol in the tank happened to be low, Horses were used in the estates. From the year 1924 tea from Vandiperiyar was sent to the rail head at Bodi (Tamilnadu), a journey that took about a week. Travelling at night of course had its own risks, as there was always a chance of meeting elephants especially on the way to near Thekkady. The roads near Periyar River was still more dangerous and also in the patch of swamp below Pasumallay near Ayappancoil.

The rope-way started from a spot near the palace at Kuttikanam along Peruvandanam down the hill to Mundakayam Even today the remains of the old rope-way can be found at Boyce Estate of Mundakayam and the sheds and loading area at Kuttikanam. Meanwhile people were still going up and down the ghat An old building at kuttikkanam

FLOOD OF 1924 Monsoons came year after year giving the estates a lot of water and nobody bothered when it started raining continuously in 1924. The Heavy rain fall resulted in landslides completely blocking the roads to Peermade and brought life to stagnation. The rain and the wind grew stronger and stronger. It rained 61 Inches (164 Cm) in Vandiperiyar during the first ten days of July. Tyford estate at Kuttikanam, received 145 inches of rainfall, 81 inches during the first week. The thin layer of topsoil was saturated with water, making it swampy. There were several landslides by the middle of July. All communications to the outside world was destroyed. Some of the shops in Vandiperiyar and Peermade town were almost submerged by water. On the Mundakayam side of the hill two sides of the valley slid down making deep trenches. The road to Mundakayam

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including two iron bridges (Near present Murinjapuzha waterfall, 4 Kms from Kuttikkanam) collapsed. More than a dozen of carts which carried food grains uphill were drowned with twenty two coolies. There was a heavy landslide near the present day Pullapara (Pullupara Check post). The roads were clogged with large stones and boulders. Huge trees were uprooted and many of them were chucked along the roads. All the roads in Peermade became impassable. It was said that wheeled traffic would not be able to come up to Peermade for several weeks. The planters never kept a huge stock of food and rice. They had it only for a couple of weeks and were afraid of running short of food and bringing rice from down was a very important work. The Planters with the help of the local workers and coolies hacked a new way through the jungle beside the landslide

through a shortcut and reached the other end from where they head loaded rice to the hill top. It was not easy to carry tea down this slippery narrow shortcut. The roads were very steep that only one third of a bag of rice could be carried up. On 26th of July 1924 another 24 inches of rain at Vandiperiyar worsened the situation by flooding the road between bassar and Nellickal, depositing a large amount of slit. This was the most disheartening as the stretch had just been cleared. The town of Elapara was not present during this time.

EVENING MIST

Beautiful evening mist blowing from planes below, to Kuttikkanam. This appears usually during the post monsoon rains. View from Peeru hills (Left) and view from Kuttikkanam Town (Right). The road from Mundakayam to Peermade passes along the front side of the hill seen on the photograph at left.

FROM FLOOD TO THE PRESENT The planters requested the officials to repair the roads. But there was not much help from the officials in the British India. At Travancore side, they had done all they could by feeding thousands of refugees. Finally the reconstruction work began after requesting several times. The length of the new road from Mundakayam to Peermade, increased by about five kilometres. The roads to Kumily was in very bad condition But the Executive engineer of the PWD Madura District had not arrived see the roads destroyed. He sent an assistant who informed Neasrs Inman and Enimond that they intended to put on Hundred coolies when the weather is fine. This showed the lack of interest by the officials. The planter started to Cumbum, the next day to interview the executive Engineer of Madura. Their purpose was to ascertain what immediate steps are going to be taken and even

requested permission to undertake the reconstruction work by the district or arrange a contract. In the worst case, they were ready to do the work themselves and finally they had to do the work themselves. They had to collect between 200-300 coolies under a European Supervisor to complete the work. At the end of Vandiperiyar the PWD cleared the road only due to the good deal of pressing from the Periyar planters. Mr Ford of Chenkara Estate went down the ghat the next monday and found that the PWD had a small gang of coolies clearing a small footpath wide path which was not of much help to the planters. What the planters required was an eight foot track along which they could drive Bullock carts to carry goods like rice and tea. The engineers who were in charge of the job never had any

Photo : Melvin K Sebastian

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permission to make any alterations to the plan. Mr Ford and Horrocks eventually proceed to Madura and saw the executive engineer of the PWD and told their immediate requirement of the Eight foot track. Though with certain amount of trouble they got what they needed and returned back to Gudalur with necessary orders and were successful in getting the track done.

The present road to Peermade from Mundakayam is constructed along this hill side (Left). A plantation estate office and a couple of office quarters at Kuttikkanam (Right). The present day Kuttikkanam town (Above)

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PEOPLE OF PEERMADE

Plantation workers

Plantation workers at Lardrum Estate, near Peermade at self help group meeting with Fr Alex Joseph Vellappally

Tea plantation workers

Workers plucking tea leaves, at an estate near Kuttikkanam.

When Henry Baker arrived at Peermade for the first time, these hills were inhibited by tribes, with their hamlets scattered in the valleys near water source. There were four distinguishable tribes living in Peermade. 27

MALA- ARAYANS They were a class of hill tribes who were also known as Hill Arrians, the people who invited Henry Baker to the hills. They were good hunters and cultivators and never worked for hire or carry head-loads. Mala Arrians lived in small groups along the slopes between Mundakayam and Peermade. There were a number of settlements mostly at an altitude of more than 3000 feet above sea level. They lived in ravines which were not accessible to elephants and villages were surrounded by gigantic trees. Mala Arrians were good hunters and were fond in eating monkey flesh. They were dread by the low-country flocks as wizards on account of their reputations as magicians. It was believed that, they had an ancestor called Telanini, who was their priest of hunting deity of Aiyappen, whose chief shrine is at Savirimala. Savirimala is a Hindu Pilgrim centre about twenty five kilometers away Peermade. Their diet consisted of anything edible they found in from forests. They were addicted to alcohol and cannabis under the effect of which they are apt to become uproarious, mostly by the evenings.

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MANNAN Mannans lived in the east side of the Periyar River. Many of them lived in a village near Thennikudi. Mannans claim that they migrated from Madras like the Uralis. Later the Mannans were appointed as the hand-man by the Poonjar Rajas. Mannas were responsible for many forests services like the, collection of cardamom and later employed in the clearing works for roads to carry forest products. Manns practiced Migratory form of cultivation by burning a patch of forest and cultivating paddy. The harvested rice was used as food and some portion was used to exchange for salt and cloths. For many years they relied on whatever food they could get from the jungle, either as fruits or berries, sometimes roots or the meat of fish caught from the Periyar River. When the cultivation exhausted they moved to a different area and started a new cultivation.

Tribal Hamlet

A present day tribal hamlet at Perumalmudi in Attappady, Kerala. (Facing Page)

TRIBE

A tribal man living in Attappady, Kerala. (Left) 29

URALIS Uralis usually lived near the Periyar Valley and the bank of the Periyar River. They were dependents of the king of Madras. Though most of them lived in the Jungles of Ranikoil, by 1931 there were a little more than 400 of them at Periyar. Uralis claim to be the umbrella bearers of the King of Madura, along with other tribes, Mannans and the Madavas. They said to have accompanied him to Neriamangalam and were left by him there. Uralis practiced migratory form of cultivation and spoke a corrupt form of Madurai Tamil : a strong indication of their Madura culture. Their hunting skills were exceptional in hunting elephants and were employed as forest guides by hunting parties who

occasionally came from the State of Madura. The hunters with the help of these tribes drove the herd of elephants on to the top of a natural mountain pass near the Dindigul valley. The pass was so small that only one elephant could go at a time. The elephants were driven from back. The frightened elephants ran through the pass and falls in the ditches which were built by the hunters. The ditches were dug like as in a chessboard, adjacent to each other, and were covered by straw and grass. Most of the elephants felt into the ditches. The ones which stopped were shot down by the hunters from hilltop. A lot of elephants were caught at once; sometimes even 50 in one stretch.

Labor lines

The lines of houses where the tea plantation workers lives.

30 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

THE PRESENT PEOPLE Rev Henry Baker brought people from Kottayam to work in the plantations at Peermade: the tribals never worked on hire. The workers from Kottayam reverted when they were afraid of life inside forest, and less accustomed to life in low temperature. Many of the coolies escaped from the estates and some of them died due to Malaria and Bronchial disease, due to shortage of woollen clothes and medicines. On the contrary, there was plenty of food and jobs in the plains. All these prevented people of Travancore from working at Peermade and as a result, planters were always in short of workers. During this time there was a heavy famine in the state of Madras which led to shortage of job and food and death of many. The remaining poor were forced to migrate to the hills

in search of job. They were interested in working at the new clearings near Peermade and most of them settled around Peermade with their family. When the British left India, the lands were transferred to the reputed people in Kerala. As time progressed more people who loved to have a summer stay in the hills started buying small holdings at Peermade. Religious organizations constructed educational institutions and meditation centres at Peermade. Slowly, the number of tribes were overtaken by people from outside. Now only a handful of them are left, in the foothills near Periyar river at Plakkthadam and Near Kattapana.

Kuttikkanam ridge

The ridge overlooking Mundakayam from Kuttikkanam. The town of Kuttikkanam can be seen on the left. To road to Peermade from Mundakayam passes along the hill seen right.

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CLIMATE OF PEERMADE

fractal sky

Evening sky during the summer months (May), with fractal patterns of clouds.

Bunny Clouds

Beautiful formations of Cumulus clouds before the monsoons at Kolahalamedu View Point near Vagamon

With an altitude of more than a thousand meters above sea level, climate remains pleasant throughout the year. Daytime temperature never exceeds 29OC: the average temperature remains around 19 C. At night the temperature falls down to 10OC : at-times near freezing point of water during winter. Being the first west facing (windward facing) ridge, Peermade receives abundant rains during the Southwest monsoon: usually 190 cms in a year. The climate of Peermade is ideal for the growth of tea plants. The area has three identifiable seasons: Summer Season, Winter Season and the Rainy Season. 33

PHOTO: Jees John Adukuzhiyil

THE RAINS The rainy season from June to August is when the Western Ghats receives most of the rainfall. The sudden burst of rains is always known to cause floods and landslides: disrupting communications and connectivity. The duration of sunshine drops down to a few hours, under the cover of thick black clouds. Visibility will be reduced to a few meters due to thick mist. This monsoon is called the south-west monsoons as the rains are brought by the moist humid winds blowing from southwest direction or the Arabian sea. After the south-west monsoons, there is an inter-monsoon from September to November. During the inter-monsoon, rains are brought by the winds from east .There will be heavy rainfall with thunder and lightning. The south-west monsoons are the ideal time for farmers to start cultivation and inter-monsoon is the time of harvest. Whole of Western Ghats becomes green with abundance of everything. Many people travel to these hills from far and wide.

34 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

THE WINDS

THE SUMMER

The rainy season slowly evolves to the winter season, with decrease in the, amount of rainfall and temperature. The average temperature will be around 15OC.

The summer season between February and May is when there is scarcity of water and comparatively feel-able warmth. The summer season is the best time to see the vast stretch of mountains as there is no mist.

The winter season, from November to February is known for the forceful winds. The wind speed can reach up-to 20 Kilometres per hour. The weather is so chilling that a protective jacket or woollen cloth is required. At night the temperature drops below freezing point of water during the months of December and January. The winds during this period are so strong that it can pluck away anything as large as a human being on the way. The winds are even stronger at Panchalimedu and on the hill tops. The rainfall during this period is very low.

before it rains

Nimbostratus clouds and heavy downpour at Yenthayar seen from Kolahalamedu, Vagamon.

Most of the visitors arrive here during this period, to help themselves from the hot climate in the plains: where is it unbearable. During the summer season most of the water sources and waterfalls dry up. The scarcity of water is often fuelled by the increasing number of tourists. During this season the grasses on top of the hills dry up, and glow in golden color. The sunsets and sunrise during the end of summer is spectacular, with fractal pattern of colorful clouds in hues of red and violet.

shift To summer

Grasslands slowly turn dry during the arrival of summer months at Kuttikkanam.

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PLANTATIONS AT PEERMADE

TEA PLANTATIONS

Tea plantations at Elappara.

Transformation from barren hills and evergreen forests to Tea sholas and pine forests. Ccoffee, tea or pepper? Factors affecting choice of crops by agro-entrepreneurs in nineteenth century Peermade 37

COFFEE PLANTATIONS Coffee was a favourite drink in England. The coffee plant is said to have originated in the Koffa district of Abyssinia and was brought to India, by a pilgrim called Baba Sudan who went to Mecca in the seventeenth century. He planted it in his garden near Chickmangalur (A Hill station in Karnataka)in the state of Mysore then part of the Tippu Sultanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kingdom. Seed dispersal by birds helped it spread more and more in the Western Ghats. Coffee grew wild in the jungles of Wayanad (Kerala) during the same time, though it was known as a wild crop for many years. In many places in India coffee was never considered as an acceptable drink by the Hindus. Henry Baker, the missionary who came to Peermade had an idea of planting coffee in the new clearings of Peermade. He acquired a free land grand from the Travancore Government and two coffee estates were raised near Periyar and later it was increased to eight. Soon other planters followed him and Peermade became an active coffee cultivating area by 1860s. The first seeds were brought from Wayanad. The small plants were brought as head load during the time. But coffee plantations did not last for a long time. Coffee plantations were affected by a leaf disease, called Hemalia Vextratix. Due to this the leaf turned dark and dried up. Coffee planters were also affected by the decrease in price of coffee in the international market due to overproduction and availability of cheaper Brazilian coffee. This forced many planters to abandon coffee plantation. Coffee is still grown at Peermade though not in a very large scale. There are many coffee plantations around Peermade and Vandiperiyar, many coffee plantations can be seen on the way to Panchalimedu and Parunthumpara.

COFFEE

Ripe coffee collected from coffee plants. Coffee Berry and coffee seeds.

38 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

orange county | orangecounty.in

southchoirs.blogspot.com

skthealth.com

CARDAMOM PLANTATION Cardamom grows mostly at an altitude of 1500M above sea level usually in the wild. It was collected by the tribes and sold in the local markets. Cardamom cultivation was not profitable in a large scale though some casual planters grew cardamom in a small scale. During the 18th century there was a decrease in the demand for cardamom due to overproduction in Srilanka. Now cardamom is cultivated in large scale around Peermade. The ever growing demand for spices in Europe has given big money to cardamom planters. The other spices like Pepper, Clove, Ginger, Turmeric etc are grown in small amount near Peermade.

CARDAMOM

Cardamom Plantation, Cardamom growing on plants, Cardamom seeds, Cardamom seeds skin peeled off. (Counter Clock Wise)

Marc Tormo| marcoffeeideas.blogspot.in

catherine yronwode | herb-magic.com

colombiancardamom.com

thespicehut.coM

RUBBER PLANTATIONS Rubber was experimentally planted around Peermade and was concluded that the place was not suitable for rubber plantation. Continues rain and strong winds destroyed the soft wood trees like rubber trees. As a result rubber is not grown around Peermade, though little grown on the slopes of Western Ghats around Peermade: around the Mundakayam valley. J J Murphy and Rubber Plantation JJ Murphy was an Irish Planter who was the first to try Rubber Plantations at Peermade. He was born in Dublin in a family of Shippers and Bankers, a seventh month baby who was rather delicate and asthmatic. After private education with Marist Brothers, a Catholic Educational Brotherhood in Europe, and Trinity College, Dublin, J.J. (as he was popularly known) set out to the East. He joined a tea plantation company in Ceylon (present Sri Lanka) but shifted to South India to join another. In spite of his independent nature he survived on that job for a few years before being sacked. That, in a way, set J J Murphy free, at the age of 29. And there was the whole wide, wild world before him. Murphy’s interest turned to rubber. Since 1872 the India Office in London had been trying to introduce hevea rubber plants in India without any success. But Murphy, along with three associates,

established the first rubber plantation in the country at a place called Alwaye. Then, in 1904, the man went for his own private rubber plantation at Yendayar, the place that was to be his home till death. At Yendayar Murphy planted tea as well, and scored another first by organizing pepper cultivation on plantation pattern. Till then, like cardamom, pepper too was procured from wild growth and small farmers. The Irishman was an enlightened employer. Once he told the Planters’ Association of which he was the Chairman, “So long as we pay fair rates and look after our coolies well, we need not worry much.”At one time I used to visit the Mundakayam Club, which Murphy established, rather frequently. I heard the following story there. When the First World War began, Murphy went to Madras (present day Chennai) to enlist. The officer concerned pointed out that the age limit for recruitment was 40. The Irishman was around 42 then. He was upset, but there was nothing any one could do about His Majesty’s regulations. Murphy told the officer, “Very well, but don’t blame me if you lose the bloody war”, and walked out. J. J. Murphy died on May 9, 1957. He was buried at Yendayar.

RUBBER

Rubber trees and trapping for latex from trees.

40 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

M.arun prasad

Cascadia Conservation District | cascadiacd.org

TEA PLANTATIONS During the British rule the whole of the Kerala was surveyed for geographic features like humidity and temperature. It was found that Peermade was best suitable for the cultivation of Tea. Also the coffee plantations were all destroyed due to the leaf disease. All these made the planters clear the coffee plants and plant tea bush. For well growth tea require an altitude of 1000 M above sealevel. Tea was growing wild in the uncultivated uplands in Assam in North East India. Tea was brought to Nilgiris (Ooty) from China and later brought to Peermade. At first tea cultivation was done experimentally in about ten acers. After watching its success tea plantations started all around Peermade. Even now tea remains the most important plantations of Peermade. There are many tea processing factories around Peermade. Tea dust shops are there in almost all towns around Peermade and Kumily where tea is sold in big amount for cheaper price. Most of the tea available at Peermade is CTC tea and high end expensive varieties are not available.

TEA PLANTATIONS

Tea plantations near Elappara. A plantation worker collecting tea leaves.

FORESTS: FLORA AND FAUNA

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44 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS

Blessed by the pleasant climate and good accessibility, Vagamon gets thousands of visitors everyday who come and enjoy the charm. The Kerala Adventure Carnival, an international event with paragliding and motor racing is held at Vagamon every year.

cattle farms

Cows grazing at the Indo-Swiss farm project area at Kolahalamedu near Vagamon.

Paragliding

Paraglider Jyoti Thakur flying in front of spectators at Kerala Adventure Carnival which took place at Kolahalamedu in Vagamon. 45

Valajanganam Waterfalls A beautiful waterfalls located on the way to Peermade from Kottayam, eight kilometers before Peermade. The stream which originates from Kuttikanam falls down 100 feet with cascades at the highway, crosses the road under a bridge and falls into the valley, several hundred meters down. A kilometer further up the waterfalls along Peermade route is a good viewpoint from where you get a birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye view of Panchalimedu and the valley.

How: Drive four kilometers down along Kuttikkanam Kottayam route and you will see the waterfalls on your right side. When: During and after the monsoons. The waterfall usually dries completely during the winter and summer months. There is little space for parking vehicles and tea shops near the waterfalls.

Murinjapuzha Waterfalls

My friend Wilfred Chacho in front of the waterfalls 46 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

TEA PLANTATIONS Extensive tea plantations over lofty hills can be seen all around Peermade. Most of the tea estates belongs to large holdings of plantation companies and church. A few of the places where you can see beautiful plantations are the places on the way to Elappara from Vagamon and a drive to a place called Kochukarinthari from Elappara (3 kms).

Tea plantations at Peermade

Tea plantations of Malankara Estate on the way to Vagamon from Elappara (Right). Tea plantations of Chinnar Estate on the way to Kattappana from Elappara (Bottom).

PINE forests Pine, a tree exotic to Western Ghats was brought from the west and planted by the early British planters in the 18th century. Pine wood was used as fuel to fireplace inside offices and residences during winter months, as there was no electric heater available during the time. Pine wood was also used as firewood for domestic use and to run tea factories. A good part of the farmland was reserved for pine tree plantations, and pine was also planted in-between tea plantations to provide shade during summer months. Pine tree wood was also used in the construction of houses and factories. The thick evergreen canopy of pine trees and, long biological degradation period of fallen needles entertain very little undergrowth, keeping land clean from bushes and other plants. Most of the pine plantations have been cleared recently and only a couple of pine plantations exist near Peermade in under the forest department. These evergreen trees provide plenty of oxygen all round the years, but only a handful species of plants and animals can survive inside pine forests: due to which, the biodiversity value of pine trees are considered to be low.

VAGAMON How: Drive six kilometres Elappara Vagamon route, crossing barren hills and stop at the junction after (50 meters) Indo Swiss Project (Vedikuzhy). Continue walking along the road on your right for 500 meters to reach the pine forest. KUTTIKKANAM How: Drive two kilometres along Kuttikkanam- Kumily route and you will find pines on your right side. How: Drive two kilometres along Kuttikkanam - Kottayam road and you will find pine trees on your left side when you reach a couple of sharp hairpin curves. When: They look the same almost all round the year. Post monsoon preferred.

Pine forests at Kolahalamedu, Vagamon after monsoons 48 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

PINE FORESTS

Overlooking the pine forests at Kolahalamedu 49

THANkal para Thangal Hill or Thangalpara is a rugged hill located near Kolahalamedu of Vagamon. Thankalpara is considered sacred by Muslims: for the tomb of Sheikh Fariduddin, a Sufi saint from Afghanistan who lived and died here about 800 years ago. West side of Thankalpara is picturesque with beautiful views of barren hills and valleys down below. There is a small masjid and a small water poll at the foot of the rock. Entry to the ancient cave at Thankalpara is discouraged. During the annual â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Urusâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Festival hundreds of devotees visit Thankalpara to perform the Ganjusakkar (Sarkarakanji) offering.

How: Proceed along Elappara route from Vagamon. After Kolahalamedu town, turn right up along Thankalpara road for two kilometers to reach the base (a kilometer is unsurfaced and road ends at the base). From there one can walk up the rock for half a kilometer to reach Thankalpara.

THANKALPARA

When: During the monsoons, the place will be thick with mist and the Thankalpara road will be difficult to drive due to clay.

THANKALPARA

The approach road to Thankalpara, seen from Thankalpara (above). The tomb of Sheikh Fariduddin at Thankalpara (left) 50 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

tea factories There are many tea factories around Peermade. Except for a couple of them, most others were constructed by the British in the 18th century. Due to the recent fall in tea price and strikes by workers, many of the factories had to close down.

An old tea factory at Pampanar, four kilometer east of Peermade.

The tea factory before Kuttikkanam run by the Catholic Church under the name Sahyadri Organic Tea and MASCO tea, manufactured by Malanad Service Co-Operative Bank Ltd is popular among domestic tea drinkers.

CTC or Crush, Tear, and Curl (also Cut, Twist, Curl) is a method of processing black tea. Instead of the leaves being rolled as a final stage, they are passed through a series of cylindrical rollers with hundreds of small sharp â&#x20AC;&#x153;teethâ&#x20AC;? that crush, tear, and curl the tea, and finally filter based of granule size.

Organic and flavored CTC tea dust locally manufactured can be bought at many outlets at Peermade and Vagamon. Expensive tea, like white tea and high altitude tea is not available at Peermade.

CTC was invented by William McKercher during 1930-1931, and the process spread in the 1950s through the 1970s, most rapidly in India and Africa.

TEA PROCESSSING

CTC TEA Manufacture

Eighty percent of tea in the Indian domestic market is CTC tea.

pallikkunnu csi church European Planters and architects who came in the 18th Century were the first to discover this beautiful plateau. They built a church in the name of Saint George and planted a garden in 16 acres around it: one of the best gardens of Asia in those times. The place was named Pallikkunnu which means Church Hill in Malayalam. The bell tower and the acoustic grand piano were unique. The first pastor of the church was Henry Baker Jr. The church was initially built for the European settlements. In 1888, noting the rapid increase in the Tamil population the CMS engaged a Tamil clergyman called Rev Nallathampi who had also worked at the Nilgiris. He was the pastor of the church until 1901. Later when the Europeans went back the church was ran by Indian Priests. Even now English mass is conducted once a month. Many stones are erected inside the church compound in memory of the early planters. The church has a record of birth and death which includes many early planters. In the churchyard rests in peace, personalities like Norman Palloc, Warne Richardson, George Weat, four year old Harry Blake, Bridget Mary and many others. Even now many Europeans come here to pay tribute to their forefathers. Granddaughter of Henry Baker, Ms Tessa Tennant arrived recently. She was surprised to see her great grandparentâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s grave and the original birth and death records of them inscribed in 1894. The church had one of the early installations of computer, and punched cards were used to store information about the church.

52 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

How: From Kuttikkanam, drive along the road to Elappara for 4 kilometers and you will see the church on your left side. It is the next town after Kuttikkanam.

The CSI Church at Pallikkunnu (bottom) Graves, at the compound of Pallikkunnu church, where many plantation pioneers rests in peace. (above)

peerU HILL Peeru hill, is named after the Sufi saint Peer Mohammed who spent his last days at Peermade is a sacred site for Muslims. The Mausoleum of the saint and the summer palace of the Travancore royal family are situated near to the hill. This hill two kilometers away from Kuttikkanam, offers the best views of the valley, and has been one of our favorite destinations for evening walks.

Mausoleum of Sufi saint Peer Mohammed at the foot of Peeru Hills (above). View of the Mundakayam valley and Amruthamedu from Peeru Hills (below). PEERU HILLS

How: Follow the road to Mundakkayam from Kuttikkanam. After 200 meters, at the second turn take the deviation to the right. Continue along the un-surfaced road for a kilometer to reach Peeru Hills.

henry baker ridge Sometimes known as Kokkad View Point, or Suicide point of Kuttikkanam, got its name when a 13 year old kid, accidently fell down the cliff and died, a century ago. The sheer high cliff with 500 meters depth is one of the rarest in this kind in Western Ghats. Down the cliff is dense forest through one can find way to Memala, connected by public transport to Mundakayam. The ridge is located inside the Misty Mountain Estate and visitors have to get prior permission from the estate officers to visit this place. The Misty Mountain office is located 200 meters before Kuttikkanam from Mundakkayam Side. A part of the ridge can be seen from a view point near Kuttikkanam. Proceed along the road to Elappara from Kuttikkanam. Take the first left after about 500 meters. The ridge is located at the end of this road.

Side view of a part of the ridge (left) Looking down the ridge (below)

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kolahalamedu view point Kolahalamedu view point, also called Kolahalamedu Suicide Point is one of the must visit places: best place (Parunthumpara is another one) to see a birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye view of the valley. One can see the valley with cascades of hills till the horizon. Yenthayar and many other places one kilometre deep down the valley can also be seen. The landscape around the viewpoint is just never ending barren hills, with short grasses. On the left one can see the Annan Thampy hill range, the highest ranges across this part of the Western Ghats. The International Paragliding festival of Kerala takes place every year at this place. Winter evenings are known for the beautiful view of sunset and Monsoon evenings are known for the view of heavy thick clouds. During monsoons, this area will be thick with mist, as this the first windward hill facing the Arabian Sea. A new road is being constructed to Yenthayar from Kolahalamedu.

How: Kolahalamedu can be easily reached from Vagamon. Drive along the road to Ealppara from Vagamon. You will find a road on your left, one kilometre after Vedikuzhy. Stop the vehicle there and walk a kilometre along the unsurfaced road to reach the viewpoint.

KOLAHALAMEDU VIEW POINT

PATTUMALA CHURCH Pattumala is a popular pilgrim spot, for its beautiful granite stone made church amidst tea plantations. The meaning of Pattumala is Hill of Silks in Malayalam. In 1966 the Franciscan Missionary Brothers built an Asrama at Pattumala and worked for the empowerment of local community. The interest of people in worshiping the Velankanni Matha or the Lady of Velankanni forced the authorities, in 1982 to bring a sculpture of the Lady of Velankanni from Velankanni. It was initially brought to Kottayam, where it was blessed and then it was brought to Pattumala by a procession. This sculpture is exhibited inside a room aside of the highway at Pattumala. This new church designed by the Italian architect Br Hipolitus, and was built during 1989. The old chapel still exists near the new church. How: Proceed along the road to Kumily from Peermade. Cross Pampanar and a steep ascent to reach Pattumala Church on your left. Pattumala Church (below) Tea plantations at Pattumala (right) A beautiful lake at Karadukuzhy, a kilometer hurther ahead of Pattumala (top)

56 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

SUMMER PALACE This summer palace of Travancore Maharajas at Kuttikkanam, was built by His Highness Sree Moolam Thirunal Rama Varma. A part of the palace has already fallen down due to lack of maintenance. Many pilgrims visiting Peeru Hills also visits this palace. There is a caretaker at the palace. There is an escape route from this palace: a cave connecting to Peermade and far off places. It has been sealed recently: after a bunch of students tried to explore the cave and lost their way. The old cave walls have already fallen down and is said that there are moats inside the cave. PALACE

The summer palace of Travancore maharajas (big). An old sculpture at the palace (inset left). The entrance to the secret cave, which was used to escape in case the palace was attacked (inset right).

How: Follow the road to Mundakkayam from Kuttikkanam. After 200 meters, at the second turn take the deviation to the right. Continue along the un-surfaced road half kilometer and take the deviation on left through cypress trees to reach the palace.

PHOTO : Sandeep Sandeep Mathew

INDO SWISS PROJECT AREA Nicknamed as Switzerland, the Indo Swiss Project area is beautiful with rolling hills and barren hills of grasslands. Indo Swiss Project is a livestock breeding area by the government of Kerala with Swiss collaboration. With prior permission, one can go inside the compound to watch and learn about their work. The pine forest of Kolahalamedu is located behind this compound.

58 | THE STORY OF PEERMADE

How: One can easily spot the project area while travelling from Vagamon to Elappara, on left side after Vedikuzhu with a big arch and gate. One can walk up the hill to the project area rolling hills from Pine Forest.

The barren hills inside the Indo Swiss Project area.

panchalimedu Panchalimedu is an ideal place for trekking near Kuttikkanam, with fewer tourists. Panchalimedu means Hill of Panchali in Malayalam, named after Panchali the wife of Pandavas in Hindu legend. The lake, Panchalikulam, where Panchali is believed to have taken a bath is a good place to sit during the evenings. The route to Panchalimedu from Kuttikkanam is scenic with steep up and downs. From Panchalimedu one can see the valley of Koruthodu (near Mundakayam) with extensive rubber and tea plantations. The hills of Parunthumpara and Periyar Tiger Reserve can be seen to the east. The church has installed a set of 14 crosses in memory of crucifiction of Jesus Christ.

How: Drive down from Kuttikkanam along Mundakkayam Route for 5 Kilometers crossing a few hairpin curves and waterfalls to reach the next town Murinjapuzha. Take left along the way down and drive for 7 kilometers along the narrow road with steep ascend and descend to reach the base of a barren hill Panchalimedu. Walk up the barren hill to reach Panchalimedu. The road continues to the next place called Kanaynkavayal, another beautiful spot.

In clock wise. Way to the cross at Panchalimedu. An old sculpture at Panchalimedu (inset). View of Panchalimedu hills from Kuttikkanam. View of the valley from Panchalimedu.

PARUNTHUMPARA Parunthumpara a rocky ridge and a view point near Peermade. Parunthumpara means ‘Eagle Rock’ in Malayalam, named due the vast rock resembling the shape of an eagle. Paranthumpara gives a bird’s eye view of the valley down below: areas near Sabirimala and places belonging to Ranni Forest Division and Periyar Tiger Reserve. Parunthumpara has become famous among the tourists and attracts a large number of people, by evenings and weekends. During Makara Jyothy, many pilgrims arrive at Parunthumpara to glimpse the magical fire. How: From Peermade drive along the route to Thekkady: cross Pampanar. After Pattumala Church, half way down the slope look for right turn called Kallar (6 kms from Peermade). Drive along the narrow road for seven kilometers to reach Parunthumpara.

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PHOTO: Jees John Adukuzhiyil

PHOTO: Joe Thomas Varickamakkal

The eagles rock at Parunthumpara

PHOTO: Jees John Adukuzhiyil

meadows at kuttikkanam

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meadows at kolahalamedu

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ACTIVITIES

cattle farms

Cows grazing at the Indo-Swiss farm project area at Kolahalamedu near Vagamon.

Paragliding

Paraglider Jyoti Thakur flying in front of spectators at Kerala Adventure Carnival which took place at Kolahalamedu in Vagamon. 65

trekking to amruthamedu Amruthamedu is one of the highest peaks near Peermade. It is the first hill facing west, of the range of hills across Western Ghats at Peermade. Amruthamedu looks so high that: for several decades, it was wrongly considered as the second highest peak in South India. Amruthamedu can be seen to the north-west from Kuttikanam: the same big hill seen at the right side while travelling to Kuttikkanam from Mundakkayam. From the top of the hill, one can get a birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye view of Peermade and places around. On the west, one can see the costal planes of Kerala and up to the Arabian Sea on clear days. The high hills of Munnar can be seen on the north, mostly during clear mornings and Periyar tiger reserve and Parunthumpara to the east. The winding road to Peermade from Mundakkayam and an array of little hills can be seen to the south. The sunrise and sunset view from the top of the mill is majestic. Beautiful inversion scenes over the planes form the most attraction during winter mornings and luminous columns of light marks the attraction during pre monsoon mornings. Anruth in Hindu Mythology is the food of gods which renders everlasting youth. It is believed that a person who occasionally climb Amruthamedu, will have prolonged youth. (â&#x20AC;Ś I must be youth for ever) It is a Christian pilgrim spot too. On Good Fridays there are special prayers are conducted on the hill. The route to the top is marked by 14 crosses in remembrance of the crucification of Jesus Christ. Amruthmedu used to the even outing place for the early Europeans who settled at Peermade.

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How: Trekking to Amruthamedu takes about 3 hours from Kuttikkanam. There is a jeeproad upto the foot of Amruthamedu (for 2 kms), from there it is a steep climb up the barren hills. Start along the road to Elappara from Kuttikkanam and continue for about a kilometer. Take a left at the road to Ashely Estate Bungalow. Continue along the winding road amidst tea plantations and cypress trees. Just before reaching the bungalow (300 meters), look for a road which goes up (straight), and continue another 400 meters to reach the base of Amruthamedu. Find a favorable track uphill over the barren hill and trek about 2 kilometers to reach the top. The road continues straight along the base of the hill crossing many beautiful places like Madamakulam and many tea plantations of Tyford Estate, reaching Memala (6 kilometers) at Kuttikkanam - Elappara main road. From the top of Amruthamedu one can trek north-west along the pinnacle to reach Kolahalamedu near Vagamon. This is a very beautiful walk and takes almost one day to complete it. The road to Amruthamedu is a private estate road and permissions must be obtained from the estate office on the way.

Panoramic view of Amruthamedu Road to Peermade from Mundakayam passes along the hill seen on the left. The ridge and a partial view of Kuttikkanam Plateau. Amruthamedu is the first high hill looking from left. Kottikkanam town can be seen partially at the extreme right side of the photo.

Amruthemedu

Moist air ascending Amruthamedu, seen from Amruthamedu trail, after a rainy afternoon (bottom left & right).

trekking to baKer hills This mammoth hill seen to the north of Kuttikkanam, is popular as Baker Hill, in memory of Henry Baker, one of the plantation pioneers of Peermade. The hill is located parallel to the famous Annan Thampy Hills, at the center of a range of hills across Western Ghats at Peermade. The hill is mostly barren with little shola grassland patches along the fringes. The view from the top is not as beautiful as Amruthamedu, as one side: north is completely blocked by Annan Thampy Hill. Views to the east are better and wider than Amrhthamedu. Vandiperiyar bridge and shola hills of Periyar Tiger Reserve can be easily spotted on clear days. This hill gives a good view of Kuttikkanam Town and places around it.

How: Trekking up Baker Hills from Kuttikkanam requires a few hours. Start along the road to Elappara from Kuttikkanam. After crossing the next town, and a valley of tea plantations (3 Kms), look for a road down, on the right along the foot of Baker Hills, known as Glean Mary Road. Continue along this road until the base of the hill. Most areas surrounding the hill belong to private estate. Prior permission must be obtained while venturing inside from the estate office at Glen Mary Road.

Baker Hill and Glen mary Road along the base of the hilll, seen from the entry of the road. Annan Thampy hills can be seen a bumb behind Baker Hill.

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View to tea plantations from Baker Hills (top left). View of Baker Hills from Kuttikkanam (Top). View of Kuttikkanam Town from Baker Hills (below)

PARAGLIDING

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MOUNTAIN BIKING

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MAKING The residential college, a mammoth structure in red, surrounded by green barren hills and beautiful valleys between the giant hills of tea plantations: What more would someone look for: after watching the movie ‘Into the Wild’? : “wow lots of hills to trek. When will I finish trekking all of them”.

pushing our targets farther and further: once four of our friends, walked to Thekkady...a popular tourist destination 36 Kilometers away. At times we used to pitch tents over the hills and spend nights there (..without the knowledge of our hostel administrators).

I spend most of my time inside, in front of my old, but favorite computer, an IBM 486 with 8 MB RAM and a 66 Mhz Processor, programming Computer Graphics or mathematicel models in C. But every evening I would jump out for a trek, usually with my friend, Jibil John from Idukki, another guy who was interested in outdoor activities.

Trekking always helped me to learn more and more about theplace. The geography, the people, the history and more. Stories about the wandering spirits of English planters, beautiful women killed inside the estate bungalows and adventures of the first English men who stepped at Peermade, all fascinated me crazy: made me more and more curious to learn about this little town.

It did not take more than just a few months to find routes and trek most of the hills visible from college hostel. We started

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Data Collection: As there was not much written records available about the history and early people at Peermade. We could gather only a little information from books. The only source of written information was the heap of records and scattered letters inside the old estate bungalows: made home by termites. Photography: My old Yashica film camera was the only equipment for photography. I had to minimize the number of shots as the cost of films was far beyond my affordability. Later I could manage to get a Canon Powershot A520 Camera from one of my aunts which was used for photography during my final years. Interviews: Long talks with the early settlers of Kuttikkanam was a good source of Information. Childhood experiences and stories shared by Michael Kalluvilayil, a pioneer in plantation industry helped me to learn about the tea plantations of Peermade. A talk with Ashan who is living near Peermade

temple was also helpful to learn about the life of people at Peermade. Data Compilation : My college notebooks were used to fill up information collected from the field which was then typed into my favourate program EDIT on my IBM 486 Machine. Floppy disks were used to store the information and later compiled together on to a hard-disk later. References: Historical records hidden underneath the store rooms of Panchayath offices at Elapara and Peermade was very much useful in knowing about the place after India’s Independence. The old register of birth and death at the CSI church, Pallikunnu started by Henry Baker: one of the first Europeans who visited Peermade was very much useful in finding the names of the pioneers of the hills. A manuscript of the records written by Heather Lovatt titled ‘Above the Heron’s Pool’ was very much usefull in making this book.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS SPECIAL THANKS TO * Michael Kalluvayalil. Planter and director of Misty Mountain Resorts at Kuttikkanam, for sharing his childhood experiences of life at Kuttikkanam and the story of plantation at Kuttikkanam. * Jibil John, Idukki. My best friend who accombanied me for most of the treks and helped me a lot in the preproduction of this book. * Ashan, Peermade. For narrating his childhood stories and expirences of his life at Kuttikkanam. His son runs a tea shop opposite to Peermade Temple. * Rajan Sir, Elapara. English teacher at Elapara Government High School, who shared with me the manuscripts he have collected during his research. * Officers at Panchayath office of Peermade, Vandiperiyar and Elapara. for providing me all that they could find. * BACSA British Association of the Cemeteries of South Asia. for presenting me a copy of the book â&#x20AC;&#x153;Above the Herons Poolâ&#x20AC;&#x153;

I am grateful to my friends and classmates at Marian College Kuttikkanam. The help and support rendered by them during every stage of making this book by providing information, accompanying for treks and pumping ideas is unforgettable. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Ajomon Sebastian. Mattukatta Anish Abraham. Elapara Anoop Jose. Ponkunnam Anoop Krishnan. Kothamangalam Dawn V Ninan. Mavelikkara Das Vijay. Munnar Jerry Mathew Vadakkattom. Alapuzha Fr Jimmy Anjilithoppil. CST Joby Xavier. Kattappana Jose K Sebin. Kattapana Kiren, Thovala. Kattapana Kiren Philip. Peermade Libni V Thomas. Kattapana Lijo Devesia. Thovala, Kattapana Melvin K Sebastian. Trishur Nijo Varghese. Erumely Ponny G George. Peermade Shoban Kumar. Munnar Subeesh Varghese. Elapara Titus J Sam. Vagamon Wilfred Chacho. Anikkadu

In COUNTER clock wise * Jibil John admist the computers inside hostel room. * A group photo of our batch, during an anual get together. * My friend Jibil John with me * Aneesh Abraham in portait

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ABOUT GEORGE THENGUMMOOTTIL A double masters: in Communication and Computers, George Thengummoottil renders his knowledge in using new strategies for Digital Marketing and Advertising. After his masters he worked for one year in Robotics & Machine Vision and later as a Professor at Sherubtse College in Bhutan. Mr George is also an avid outdoors person and loves travel & film making. He is one of the organizers of Kerala Adventure Carnival and Kerala Paragliding Festival. He is an active member of many environmental organizations. His works has been published by several magazines and books and newspapers. You can read more about him at www.theindia.info or write to him george@theindia.info is a visual arts platform developed by George Thengummootil, to help people in Digital Marketing. TheIndia. info offers a complete digital marketing package which includes everything from write-ups for newspapers to websites and corporate identity to film-making.

ABOUT BACSA British Association for Cemeteries in South Asia (BACSA) is an organisation founded in 1977 that seeks to maintain and record for posterity European cemeteries in former South Asian territories of the East India Company such as India, Pakistan and Malaysia. BACSA estimates that two million Europeans are buried in the Indian subcontinent. They provide financial aid to people in these areas who are willing to restore European cemeteries. They state that it is only by the impetus for restoration coming from the local community, that there is a chance that the old cemeteries will survive, and not relapse back into ruin and desolation in a few more years. You can learn more about BACSA at bacsa.org.uk

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