The definitive guide to loving fashion & the environment.
There is so much in this world that feels so far out of our hands. From the devastation caused in developing countries by natural disasters, to being stuck on a failed train for hours. These issues are bigger than you. The feeling of helplessness is one of which we feel far too often. But what if we could help? I have loved fashion since before I could remember and being outdoors, amongst nature, is where I am my happiest. However through attending university it has come to my knowledge that the fashion industry is the second most polluting industry after oil. This is one of those things that feels out of our reach, it is beyond us. ARLO magazine defies this feeling of helplessness by not only revealing the truth about how fashion is impacting the environment but most importantly, it provides a ‘how to’ guide that allows you to be apart of the solution. The name ARLO is believed to be derived from the Anglo Saxons and has references to ‘army’ ‘troops’ ‘war.’ I believe as readers of ARLO magazine we will form our own alliance in a battle between loving fashion and the environment. With every issue we will learn more, choose better and love fashion no less. Join the ARLO movement. Find us on Instagram @arlomagazine. I hope you enjoy the issue.
Georgia Hilliard, Creator of ARLO
CONTENTS
Microplastic. Major Issue.
For the love of clothes!
Sustainable streetwear with Omen.
Fashioned from nature.
Fashion’s waste issue.
Why organic cotton is better?
The afterlife, you decide.
Is this brand sustainable or not?
The importance of textile recycling.
Me, my clothes and I.
Electric embriodary with Darn Good.
Fashion is toxic.
Mindful colouring.
The vintage kilo sale.
Arlo Beauty.
Fashion’s carbon footprint.
Why you should ditch facial wipes for good.
Benefits of thrift shopping.
The most sustainable way to remove your makeup with Dearest Fannie.
How to shop with the planet in mind. Your clothes are made of plastic.
Bamboo is better.
Eco Towels, eco hair.
Jumper and jumpsuit, all Weekday. Bag, second hand. Trainers, Nike.
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“For the love of clothes!” Millie Carter is a Fashion Graphics student at Southampton Solent University but also, my best friend. It was her that inspired me to investigate how the fashion industry operates beyond the high street. The title of her recent dissertation illustrates her frustration with the fashion industry at present. “Ever since I was younger I’ve been both interested in the environment and protecting it. However it was only through attending university that I discovered the dark side of the fashion industry. It was a devastating thought, knowing that something I love was coming to such harm.” According to the House of Commons Environmental Audit Committee, in the UK “around 300,000 tonnes of textile waste ends up in household black bins every year, sent to landfill or incinerators. Less than 1% of material used to produce clothing is recycled into new clothing at the end of its life.” It was learning about these stark truths that Millie became certain that her role of protecting the environment had only just begun. Basing her dissertation on this topic has generated a discussion and has set out the basis of this magazine; which is to raise awareness on the issue that is fast fashion. Fast Fashion is an unsustainable model in which inexpensive clothing is produced rapidly by mass-market retailers in response to the latest trends. It is this model that has created a disposable culture. Millie’s work specifically
investigates who should be responsible for making efforts of change in the fashion industry: Consumers, Brands, Influencers or the Government. Millie asks, “Should the change for sustainable fashion start with the consumer?” Consumerism has changed throughout time. The once ‘mend and repair’ culture that existed during the Pre Industrial Revolution is long gone. When people owned less they had to take care of the garments they did own because cheap clothing was not readily available like it is today. Fast fashion has fuelled a throwaway culture and there’s nothing glam about it. “As a consumer we have the power to choose where and how we shop.” Millie recommends using “Good on You” as a way of identifying the transparency of brands. “Good on You” is an app that rates brands on their impact on labour, the environment and animals. As a consumer we can become more conscious about the way we shop however Millie argues that, “fashion brands should have a responsibility to become more 9
sustainable and reduce their environmental impact.” According to “Good on You” these are the worst offenders of fast fashion and should be avoided: Missguided, Fashion Nova, Nasty Gal, Shein and Romwe. Unfortunately it is brands like these that are promoted by influencers and celebrities on social media.“Instagram is a feed of people trying to sell you things, don’t be fooled,” Millie warns. Consumerism is everywhere, it has become so normal but it is time to realise that it is devastating our world and action needs to be taken: “Fashion shouldn’t cost the earth,” she states. Through writing her dissertation, “For the love of clothes”, Millie has come to the conclusion that it is a “never ending cycle.” Brands pay influencers to promote their clothing via social media. Direct links are used to their websites in order to make consumption as easy as possible. Followers, like you and I, are drawn in and encouraged to buy the newest trends. These clothes are usually made in the name of fast fashion and the cycle repeats. Millie believes the only escape from this cycle involves action taken by the Government. “Laws need to be put in place to ensure that fashion brands take responsibility for the environmental impact that they create not only through the production of textiles but also the afterlife of these garments.” The House of Commons Environmental Audit Committee state that “The Government’s recent pledge to review and consult on extended producer responsibility for the textile industry by 2025 is too slow.” Whilst the Government take their time to take action, we can still make a difference. By shopping from brands that support a
sustainable fashion industry or even buying second hand, we can break free of the fast fashion cycle. Millie’s favourite fashion brands are: H&M, And Other Stories and Weekday. “Each of these brands are owned by the H&M group, they are becoming more and more transparent about the way they work and I love that,” Millie explains. We asked Millie what she thinks the future of the fashion industry holds: “I think there is going to be an increase in demand for organic cotton. As consumers become more aware of the devastation of fast fashion, they will want to buy something real, natural and something that will last. I also think that we are going to see more people buying vintage/ second hand clothing either from charity shops or through apps like ‘Depop’. My depop is @milliejanexo feel free to head over to my page and re-home my unwanted garments... a bit of shameless self promotion there,” she laughs. “Lastly I think we will see a return of the ‘mend and repair’ attitude as up-cycling becomes trendy. There is a huge desire for individualism in our generation and I think up-cycling could be a great way to express that.” After university Millie plans to secure a job within the fashion industry that makes a difference and she will continue to stand for the things she loves. “My advice for someone that loves both fashion and the environment just as much as me, is to be curious and read ARLO magazine.
“I believe we can break free from the cycle of fast fashion.”
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Instagram: @milliejanexx
[T-shirt] 100% Organic Cotton, H&M. [Jumpsuit] 100% Organic Cotton, Weekday. [Bag] Second hand. [Trainers] Nike.
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Fashioned from Nature... This exhibition explores the relationship between fashion and nature from 1600 to the present day. The exhibits show the inspiration fashion draws from nature, but also highlight the harmful effects on the natural environment due to the increasing scale of the clothing industry. After coming away from the exhibition I now look at clothes differently. I look at all the florals and animal prints in my wardrobe. I wonder, how can the fashion industry take so much from nature but fail to give back? Clothing brands are masking their unethically made garments with beautiful patterns of nature. How ironic is it that we are slowly killing the planet with fashion, but are using natures beauty to mask this? Cotton is one of the worst fashion culprits. It is made using tonnes of water and pesticides used to grow the cotton seep into the earth and give off harmful chemicals. As an example, it can take up to 2,700 litres of water to make a single t-shirt. That’s enough drinking water to last one person almost three years. Now let’s think back to my wardrobe, say my floral dress with the little roses on it takes 2,700 litres of water to make and is also grown using pesticides. On top of this we must consider the consequences of using inks to screen print on the fabric, or the dyes to make the cotton black. Every 14
time this garment is washed, tiny chemical particles get washed into the ocean and our water systems that are hazardous to us and wildlife. On top of the amount of energy and water used to in the washing machine, my little seemingly harmless dress is actually extremely harmful. Yes, just like me, you can wear your floral print dress with pride, but wear it knowing the impacts it might have had on the environment. Wear your dress more than once, and if you’re considering buying a new one then think about how it was made and who made it. Can you find a more sustainable option? Can you buy one second hand? The nature itself that inspired the tiny detailed print on my dress is in danger because of fashion. Nature is the gift that keeps on giving, it does not try and stop us, and we take it without a second thought. Next time you buy remember, there’s no planet B.
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If you want to become more conscious about the way you shop, always check the label. To further your efforts in ensuring you are shopping from a brand that is trying to do better for the environment, check their website. Here are just a few brands that are starting to make a difference by selling some garments made either from 100% Organic Cotton and recycled elements.
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[T-shirt] made from recycled cotton & polyester by Patagonia. [Shorts] made from recycled denim & cotton by ASOS Design. [Socks] models own. [Trainers] Nike Air force.
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We’re in business to help save our home planet.
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[T-shirt] made from 100% Organic Cotton by Pull&Bear.
[Denim Jacket] & [Denim Jeans] both made from 100% Organic Cotton by Monki.
[T-shirt] made from 100% Organic Cotton by Weekday. [Trousers] & [Socks] models own. [Trainers] Nike Airforce.
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[Dress] made from 100% Organic Cotton by Cheap Monday.
[T-shirt] made from 100% Organic Cotton by Puma. [Trousers] made from recycled denim & cotton by ASOS Design.
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[T-shirt] made from 100% Organic Cotton by Weekday. [Belt] models own. [Jeans] Secondhand Levi’s. [Trainers] Nike Airforce.
“Why do I own so many clothes?” Do you wake up every morning frantically searching through your wardrobe wondering what on earth you’ll wear today? Or are you going on a night out with some friends and whilst they pre-drink you find yourself modelling your whole wardrobe, just to find you have nothing to wear! Same. Out of the staggering 121 garments I own, at present I wear less than 10% of them on a weekly basis. Obviously you have to account for seasons because you won’t see me wearing my summer dresses in winter but this raises a question: Why do I own so many clothes? I’ve always been a big lover of fashion. From a young age, I was determined that I would dress myself and the let’s just say, the outfits I picked out were… interesting. As I grew older I entered the realm of fashion through reading magazines. I was stuck on the idea of looking cool and buying clothes that I didn’t really need just to feel good. However this ‘feel good’ feeling was just a temporary fix. It wasn’t long until I needed to go shopping again because I needed a confidence boost or once I again I felt like I had nothing (I repeat 121 garments of clothing to my name) to wear. This is consumerism at its finest. 36
Fashion brands have made us believe that clothing is disposable. By having 52 fashion seasons a year as consumers we are drawn to buy more clothing, more often, just to keep up with the ever changing trends. Fast fashion has created quite the issue. As I sifted through my wardrobe counting all the garments I own, it came to my attention that over half of them I haven’t worn in forever. So I have de-cluttered. It was very therapeutic and I’d recommend it to anyone reading this. From 121 pieces of clothing I now have 87, which still seems like a lot but you have to account for my summer and winter clothes. As for the 34 garments I have sadly decided to part with, they were dropped off at my local charity shop or passed on to friends. I hope they find a better, more loving home. After de-cluttering my wardrobe I have come to the realisation that I don’t actually need any new clothes at present. However when I do decide to go shopping I will start by thirfting or buying through apps like Depop. Only after I have done the above will I result to buying new. Being a lover of fashion, simply never shopping again is not an option. However if I am going to buy something new I must ensure that; it is something that I love, something that was ethically made, something that is organic and of high quality, something that I will wear more than 30 times and something that I will care for so much that I will fix it if it breaks. *FYI, I would advise decluttering your wardrobe before dragging all your clothes across the city for a photoshoot. Just incase!
1 person. 121 items of clothes.
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-Vivienne Westwood
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How YOU can help. *Buy second-hand garments. This means you won’t be contributing to fashion’s toxic ways. The Vintage Kilo Sale is a great place to start...
What is the Vintage Kilo Sale? We are a partnership between Judy’s Vintage Fair and Glass Onion Vintage. We are the largest pay by weight vintage sale in the country - our first event was 10 years ago! We travel to over 35 cities nationwide and have over 150 events per year.
How/Where do you source all your vintage clothing? We work with Glass Onion Vintage who are Europe’s largest vintage wholesaler who source and grade all the stock for us.
Do you believe that buying vintage/ second hand can be just as fulfilling as buying new? I think it’s even better - the rummaging/ hunting aspect of buying vintage brings people a lot more joy than picking something off a rail in a high street shop.
Who would you consider your audience to be? Mainly women 16-30 but we do get a lot of guys through now too!
What makes an item of clothing vintage? We sell vintage/retro and branded at the event. The word vintage is used loosely for items from the 90s and earlier but a lot of people see the early 00’s as ‘vintage’ too.
What is the appeal of buying vintage clothing? Vintage is amazing way to express yourself and not dress like others. Buying vintage also really helps the environment and gives people the chance to avoid fast fashion brands and save money in the process. 44
Cerys Jones, vintage kilo sale lover. Wearing items from their event in Bournmeouth.
How is shopping vintage a more sustainable choice? Buy buying vintage you are avoiding the fast fashion brands on the high street. You’re giving a new lease of life to the items and avoiding them going to landfill.
Trends in fashion always come back around, do you believe that buying vintage means you’ll never be out of style?! Totally! Lots of the brands nowadays take inspiration from vintage designs - my ethos is to wear whatever YOU like and not be determined my trends.
Over your 10 years of experience, would you say that buying second hand/ vintage has become more popular? Absolutely - more people are discovering vintage as a really good way to express themselves, save money and save the planet - all these things mean our events have gone strength to strength.
Do you believe the fashion industry could ever be sustainable or ethical?
There are too many brands out there to ever get it to be a 100% sustainable but choosing to buy your clothing second-hand really helps reduce the popularity of these brands!
Other than supporting The Vintage Clothing Kilo Sale, how else do you think fashion lovers can become more conscious consumers? We really encourage customers to bring their own bags to our event, we are trying to completely eliminate plastic from our events (we only use biodegradable plastic bags at the moment that can be reused and recycled) which is really helping across the board. Reducing the amount you spend on the high street could also help.
“More people are discovering vintage as a way to express themselves, save money & the planet!” 47
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Buying second hand from charity shops benefits you and the environment.
Thrift shop to avoid polluting our planet...
Benefits for you • Saving Money – Thrifted clothing is far more affordable than new clothes. • Unique Finds – It’s highly unlikely that anyone else is walking around in the same clothes as you. • Creative Potential – You might be inspired to try new combinations, or even some DIY reconstruction! Benefits for the environment • Lowers Your Carbon Footprint • Aids in Water Preservation • Reduces Chemical Pollution • Decreases Landfill Waste • Inspires Green Living • Boosts Community Development • Encourages Recycling Buying your next item of clothing secondhand may not seem like you are helping, but every item that doesn’t end up in a landfill counts as a win! I recently bought this dress from a local charity shop that was orginally from Monsoon and I love it! See what gems you can find.
If one million people bought their next item of clothing second-hand instead of new, we would save 6 million kg of carbon pollution from entering the atmosphere.
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[T-shirt] Plastic
... are probably
made from
plastic. Polyester, nylon, acrylic, and other synthetic fibres — all of which are
60% of the material that makes up our clothes worldwide. forms of plastic — are now about
1 in 4 fish contain plastic.
Microplastic.
MAJOR ISSUE.
[Dress] The Vintage Kilo Sale.
[Top] made from 100% Organic Cotton by H&M. [Jumpsuit] models own.
How your clothes are poisoning our oceans and food supply... New studies indicate that the fibres in our clothes could be poisoning our waterways and food chain on a massive scale. Microfibers – tiny threads shed from fabric – have been found in abundance on shorelines where waste water is released. When synthetic fabrics such as polyester, nylon and acrylics are washed, microfibres are released into the water system and disturb natural ecosystems. Each year, approximately 500,000 tonnes of microfibres – the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles – enter the ocean from washing clothes. This is bad news for our oceans! Clothing brands need to take more responsibility to deal with their products’ impacts. Some companies have already begun to look at things like alternative material designs or fabric coatings. Unfortunately, far too many brands have
their heads stuck in the sand. Even though microfibre pollution has been public knowledge for at least five years, some haven’t admitted that their products pollute. The lack of transparency is unjust. Patagonia and other outdoor companies, like Polartec, use recycled plastic bottles as a way to conserve and reduce waste however latest research indicates that the plastic might ultimately end up in the oceans anyway – and in a form that’s even more likely to cause problems. Breaking a plastic bottle into millions of fibrous bits of plastic might prove to be worse than doing nothing at all. According to a new report by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), of the 9.5 million tonnes of new plastic waste flowing into the ocean each year, an estimated 15-30 per cent comprises fibres shed from clothing. That’s the equivalent of everyone on the planet unwittingly throwing a plastic bag into the ocean every week. No wonder scientists are finding that one in four fish samples contain plastic. But don’t worry there are some corporations that are trying to do something about the issue. The Amsterdam-based Plastic Soup Foundation, an ocean conservation project co-funded by the European Union, said better quality clothing or fabrics coated with an antished treatment could help. Another solution may lie with waterless washing machines, one of which is being developed by Coloradobased Tersus Solutions. Tersus, with funding from Patagonia, has developed a completely waterless washing machine in which textiles are washed in pressurised carbon dioxide. Others suggest a filter on home washing machines. As well as the issue of microplastics, washing and drying our clothes uses tons of water and energy. Try to wash your clothes less and line dry instead.
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How YOU can help.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
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Avoid purchasing cheaply-made, “fast fashion” clothes, whenever possible. Clothes made of synthetic fabrics such as polyester, nylon and acrylics should be avoided at all costs. Choose to wear only natural fabrics—cotton, wool, hemp. Natural fibres will eventually break down in the environment. Plastic fibres will never go away. Wash any synthetic clothes you already own less frequently and for a shorter duration. Or wash them in a mesh bag designed to trap microfibres, like the Guppy Friend. In tests, the bag captured 99 percent of fibres released in the washing process. When you clean out your dryer, place lint in the rubbish bin instead of washing it down the drain. Fill up your washing machine. Washing a full load results in less friction between the clothes and fewer fibres released. Use a colder wash setting. Higher temperature can damage clothes and release more fibres. Tell your friends and family about microfibre pollution.
[Dress] The Vintage Kilo Sale.
SMALL CHANGE + SMALL CHANGE + SMALL CHANGE + SMALL CHANGE + SMALL CHANGE + SMALL CHANGE + SMALL CHANGE + SMALL CHANGE + SMALL CHANGE + SMALL CHANGE
= BIG CHANGE
[Top] made from 100% Organic Cotton by H&M. [Jumpsuit] [Socks] models own. [Shoes] Nike
[T-shirt] 100% Organic Cotton, Omen Clothing. [Trousers] [Belt] models own.
Who is OMEN Clothing? Omen is a unisex streetwear clothing brand which focuses on being as ethical and environmentally conscious as possible. Omen is predominantly an online brand, but has also a physical concession space at Re:So in Southampton. I am also currently in talks to get the brand stocked in some stores in Brighton too. The purpose of the brand is to challenge the consumer mindset surrounding fast fashion, through emotive graphic products and informative blog entries, communicating the need for sustainability in the modern world. In short, I want to provide the consumer with a more ethically and environmentally responsible streetwear product.
What made you want to start your brand OMEN clothing? On a personal level I have always wanted to start a brand, although I didn’t always envisage it being so focused on sustainability. However, since studying and discovering all the ways in which the fashion industry was negatively impacting the planet I couldn’t choose to ignore it. If there was a standout moment for me it would have been reading Yvon Chouinard’s (Founder of Patagonia) “Let My People Go Surfing” book. It was so inspiring, I couldn’t recommend it enough.
Where did the name ‘Omen’ originate from? Naming a brand was a really hard task for me, it needed to be short, catchy, commercial but represent the brands values. The dictionary definition of the word omen is “an event regarded as a sign of good or evil”. So, it relates to the effects we are currently seeing from global warming, and how they are a clear sign of much worse to come in the future. Especially if no immediate action is taken to combat the issue. The brand will tackle these issues, being seen as a good omen for the future – especially the future of the fashion industry.
Who would you consider your audience to be? When I’m designing the graphics and creating content for social media, I would like to think it speaks to all sorts of people of both genders. I don’t want it to just be attractive to ‘ecowarriors’ I want the garments to be attractive without the focuses on sustainability, and for that to be an added bonus. 71
What is the message behind your distinctive designs? I wanted symbolise Omen and the justice for the planet. When coming up with ideas for the first collection, I wanted a theme that represented the main values of the brand – strong ethics and environmentalism. I drew on the idea of justice – and ran with the visuals of the ancient roman figure-Lady Justice. The scales in my illustration symbolise the support and the opposition for a responsible future. With the scales tilted dramatically in favour of a more responsible future, held blatantly for all to see. The sword represents authority and the belief that justice will be dealt for the planet she’s standing on top of (See graphic).
Do you have plans to expand your product range? Absolutely! There are a few designs being developed at the moment, so hopefully there will be some new t-shirts soon! As well as that, the plan is to diversify the product range with items like tote bags, caps and some 72
sustainable silver jewellery would be cool too. Creating the right things is very important and in the right quantities is crucial too, it’s important not to have an excess of stock and have to resort to shifting the dead weight by having sales.
What are your thoughts on the environmental impacts of the fashion industry? When I first started to learn about the impacts the fashion industry was having on the planet I was blown away. I couldn’t believe I had never considered it before, but of course it makes perfect sense. The current business models are unsustainable and soley focused on maximising margins and creating maximum profit, and consequently failing the planet. I like to look at it like this: in many ways, the consumers and businesses together are the root of the problem, the cause of the problem but also, importantly, the cure.
[Jumper] 100% Organic Cotton, Omen Clothing.
[T-shirt] 100% Organic Cotton, Omen Clothing. [Bag] Upcycled UNI Bag available at Re:So.
Can you be a Fashion Lover & an ‘EcoWarrior?’ I think you absolutely can, but I would say you learn to love fashion it in a different way. Instead of constantly buying into the latest fad, and getting little kicks out of cheap purchases, as a consumer you start to think more about your purchases and consider two main things- quality and value. If you really love fashion I think you should take it upon yourself to find out what materials your clothes are made of, how were they made and how does this industry operate. This in turn should give you a good grounding when buying clothes, steering clear of cheap impulse purchases and instead holding out for that piece you really want and will always treasure. In my experience I have found that being an eco- warrior and fashion lover is easier than you think. Nowadays just a quick google search will give you a long list of alternatives to the fast fashion brands and there are blogs and Instagram accounts dedicated to broadening people’s horizons on the subject.
How transparent is Omen clothing? As transparent as possible. From the get-go, I needed a manufacturer that could show me a transparent and a traceable supply chain, as well as one with fair labour practices and a minimal impact on the environment. I also needed them to be as local as possible to reduce the carbon footprint, and strangely enough I found the right company for the job just across the Solent from Southampton on the Isle of Wight.
Other than supporting Omen clothing, how else do you think people can become more conscious consumers? I think the most important thing is to educate yourself. Learn about how a cheap and fast fashion business model damages the planet and what the effect of what you’re buying has on natural resources and the person who made it. Ask yourself these questions: Do I need it? Can I buy it second hand? Will it last? In other words, reassess what value means to you.
Follow Omen Clothing on Instagram: @omen_clo
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Recycle Textiles to avoid adding to landfill... Textile recycling is the process by which old clothing and other textiles are recovered for reuse or material recovery. The importance of recycling textiles is increasingly being recognised. If clothing ends up in landfills, dependant on material, the fibres can take hundreds of years to decompose. Some of these clothes may release methane and CO2 gas into the atmosphere. Additionally, synthetic textiles are designed not to decompose. In the landfill, they may release toxic substances into groundwater and surrounding soil. Textile recycling not only avoids landfill build up but it also provides clothes to those who need them. About 61 percent of recovered wearable clothes are exported to other countries. In some African countries, as many as 80% of people wear used clothing. However, sending used clothing to Africa has generated some degree of controversy as to the benefits of such initiatives, where it can have an adverse impact on local textile industries, native dress, and local waste generation. 83
Why buy new when you can reinvent your old denim...
Who is “DARN GOOD?” Darn Good is a making, mending and embroidery business run by myself, Emma Brangan. I am a Textile Design Graduate and I specialise in mixed media and embroidery. Originally “Darn Good” started off as a uni project but as I embroidered more garments and created the brands Instagram, people started to ask for commissions. I saw the potential to make some money whilst doing something I love.
Where did you get the idea for the name “Darn Good?” My initial idea for the brand was for it to be a customisation service however it quickly led on to ideas about sustainable fashion. When I came up with the name for the brand it was like a light-bulb moment! To ‘darn’ (something) is to repair a hole in a piece of clothing by sewing stitches across the hole. It was perfect, Darn Good!
What sort of items do you embroider? Mostly denim garments, though I have done a hoodie & a few canvas bags. Alongside my commissions, I have been thinking about sustainably sourcing canvas bags and customising them to sell. Check out my
Instagram and let me know if you want to get your hands on one! @darngood_
What was your inspiration for “Darn Good?” I am obsessed with 70s fashion so naturally that inspired the colours and style of Darn Good. The ethos of Darn Good was influenced by brands like Levi, Patagonia and Finisterre for their sustainable stance in the industry. Another brand that influenced me was Gucci with their iconic embroidery. The artists that inspired my work include Marie Sophie Lockhart who embroidered a one off jacket for Drake and Celia Pym who mends things that people love.
What materials do you use? I use thread, sequins & beads. However I have been looking into using recycled materials but there is not really a market for it. 87
Is embroidery a trend or is it timeless? Embroidery is a trend within the fashion industry but I think it will always be popular. Where as mend and repair is timeless, we just have to make it cool again! At present there is a sort of stigma around knitting & embroidery. It is considered an older persons leisure activity, not cool and boring but it doesn’t have to be! Darn Good defies these stereotypes and I hope it will encourage other young people to be more hands on with their clothes.
What is your opinion on fast fashion and the importance of your brand in relation? We must try to avoid fast fashion at all costs. Perhaps try to save up for more investment pieces from eco friendly brands. Or if that is not an affordable option then mend your clothes, be creative, be individual. No one else will have it! In addition, every garment that I embroider then becomes hand wash only and so this saves water in the long run, making it the most sustainable option. Also by washing it less you prolong the garments life span. 88
So it’s clear your embroidery skills are insane! Would you consider sharing your skills in an effort to encourage others to mend & repair? I’d love to do workshops! The thing is, no one knows how to sew anymore. Children don’t get taught how to sew these days but mending, darning and embroidery shouldn’t have to be something of the past! Even if you’re an impatient person, like I am, you will find patience when you sew so long as you treat each mend as an artwork.
What do you think the future of the fashion industry holds?
How long does each embroidered piece take you? It really depends on the size and the design. I’m a perfectionist so patience is key. The sun jacket for example took me around two weeks on and off but that was a personal piece of work. When I take commissions I work faster.
If you can’t customise your clothes back to life then, what do you do with your unwanted garments? Give them to family or friends, sell them on, donate to charity or as a last resort use a textile recycling bin.
As awareness grows about the environmental crisis, so will the acknowledgement that the fashion industry plays a major role in this issue. I think sustainable fabrics will become more readily available as consumers demand clothes that have been made with the environment in mind.
How much do you charge for one of your custom pieces? Most commissions I have done have been for friends. My typical rate is £12- £15 an hour. Dependent on the size and materials used. 93
Mindful Colouring Fashion is heavily inspired by nature but these are some patterns you’ll never see on clothes. As you colour I ask you to take this opportunity to think about your day to day disposable habits and consider how you could do better for the planet. Consider the amount of clothes you own, consider what they are made of & consider the environment.
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You can easily ditch disposable facial wipes for reusable alternatives. See the next article to learn how.
Facial wipes are made from a combination of things such as
polyester, polypropylene, cotton, wood pulp, and rayon fibres, many of which are NOT biodegradable.
The most sustainable way to remove your makeup.
Who is “Dearest Fannie?” We are a two man band. We are two sisters who are both in our early twenties. We want to create sustainable alternatives for every day products without compromising quality and convenience. We are incredibly passionate about sustainability and have a drive to make a difference for the better. Jessica loves developing new ideas, travelling and is a complete foodie but is not too bothered for fashion! Myself on the other hand (Ellie), am completely mad for Fashion. I would much rather spend all my money and time finding charity shops bargains, in comparison to Jess who is very happy to spend all her money in health food stores!
What products do you sell & how do they challenge the disposable culture we live in? We currently sell two products. The first is a reusable makeup remover called the Ditsy Cloth, on first touch it is one of the softest materials you will ever feel! We often get told that people just want it as a blanket to cuddle. When you add water it magically turns into a make up remover… and after a few uses you just pop it in the wash and it comes out brand new! Our second product is our iridescent straw set. We think that metal straws are fantastic but also a bit boring, so we have designed ours to be the most beautiful shade of turquoise, green, gold and pink. Both of these products challenge a consumer to think twice. The Ditsy Cloth challenges peoples minds as they often struggle to understand exactly how it works. People can’t seem to get their heads around the fact that they can remove all their make up with just water…
What made you want to start your brand “Dearest Fannie?” We were both completely naïve to the fact that make up wipes are not biodegradable. When we found out that these one use wipes could not be recycled we were incredibly shocked and disappointed, so we set about working to create a sustainable alternative. It was important that everything from the glue in our packaging contains no animal products. We wanted to create a product that never needed to be tested on animals. We studied the entire product lifecycle of each part of our product. Even the envelope it gets sent in contains no one use plastic.
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Are your products ethically made? We have spent a lot of time, money and effort on ensuring every part of our production line is completely ethical. We are fed up of not having transparency when buying products. We are creating Dearest Fannie as a brand where customers can trust that everything we produce is, vegan, cruelty-free, sustainable and ethical. This is all done of course without compromising the quality of our products.
of a letter which began with ‘Dearest Fannie’. We looked at each other and laughed. Bingo! Dearest Fannie has stuck in our minds ever since that point. It is a name that is most certainly memorable and never fails to put a smile on peoples faces. The name represents our brand so well and it does make us giggle when we have to repeat ourselves.
Who would you consider your audience to be?
How does the ditsy cloth work?
Our audience is not necessarily the sustainable conscious consumer, we want people to buy our product because it is great and looks cool and just so happens to also be sustainable.
As you add water to the Ditsy Cloth, the fibres swell slightly allowing it to grip onto your makeup and simply wipe it away. It is so simple, yet effective!
Where did you get the idea for the name “Dearest Fannie?” We flicked through a book my Grandma had gifted my sister 10 years prior, it was written by her friend. The first page we looked at was 106
Do you have plans to expand your product range? Ofcourse! We have got multiple different products in development all of which we believe you are going to love! You can follow us on social media for constant updates!
“The whole idea of being a conscious consumer is based on educating yourself.” Is there an influencer that has inspired you to become more sustainable? A Youtuber that springs to mind is Jinti Fell. She lives in a van and travels around Australia with her partner and young child, Aya. It is incredibly refreshing to see how Jinti lives her life.
What else inspires “Dearest Fannie?” A lot of our inspiration actually comes from what we surround ourselves with every
day, mass plastic consumption in every supermarket you walk into is a good example. The new stories of global warming and the knowledge that our generation is the one that needs to do something to save the planet is another big inspiration!
What are your thoughts on the ethics within the beauty industry? The beauty industry is a huge machine with huge demand. What goes on behind closed doors can be incredibly disturbing and shocking, but companies spend millions of pounds a year to cover this up through fantasy marketing. Animal testing and the use of animal products in cosmetics has been hidden for years. Some countries, for example China, have made a law so that any cosmetic products to enter the Chinese market must be tested on animals.
Other than supporting “Dearest Fannie”, how else do you think people can become a more concious consumer? I think that the whole idea of being a conscious consumer is based on educating yourself. Knowledge is power and it really allows you to appreciate everything so much more! Buying second hand products and buying reusable alternatives are two of the most affordable ways to be a more conscious consumer. Supporting small and ethical businesses is also a huge stepping stone as these are the people who are trying to make a change!
Follow @dearestfannie on Instagram 109
350 plastic toothbrushes in a lifetime. Times We go through around
that by the human population, that’s a lot of plastic.
toothbrushes take over 400 years to decompose!
Worst of all
Who is “EcoTowels?” Launched in 2009, EcoTowels was designed by hairdressers for hairdressers as a money, time and space-saving salon solution. Most importantly the one-time-use EcoTowels are biodegradable. They are the eco alternative to traditional cotton towels in the salon.
What made you want to start your brand “Eco Towels?” Being a salon owner myself I saw an opportunity to save energy, the environment and money. I created EcoTowels as a way of allowing other businesses to save with ease. Back in 2008 I was spending £80 per week at the village laundrette; washing cotton towels that would stain, rip and tear with every cycle. The stained towels would contaminate the others and I’d find myself constantly replacing them. This led to more spending and more towels thrown away, only to sit in landfill for around 20-200 years. Also by using the launderette services so intensely I would have been using a huge amount of energy and water per week. Using EcoTowels just makes sense. This brand was born out of cost and energy saving motivation.
Matthew Smith, EcoTowe ls Manag ing Dir
ector
East and South Africa. At present there are 35,000 salons in the UK and 5% of them are using Eco Towels. Our aim is to get as many salons on board with our eco alternative!
What are Eco Towels made of? Eco towels are made from 100% natural viscose fibres that would otherwise be waste. There are no plastics, toxins or chemicals in our towels. The fabric is made by hydroentangling the fibres so that no binders, chemicals or additives are required. Due to these natural fibres, our towels are all 100% biodegradable! As well as that all EcoTowel packaging is recyclable.
Who is your audience?
Where are your products made?
EcoTowels is used by clients across a widerange of spa and beauty industries. We export all around the country as well as to the Middle
The materials used to make EcoTowels are sourced from Europe and the manufacturing of our product is done in the UK. 113
green discount card for clients that arrive with wet hair!
What are the benefits of using EcoTowels? • • • • • • • • •
•
Biodegradable. Environmentally Friendly. Hygienic. No issues with cross contamination. No more Laundry. Cost Savings. Staff time optimised. Regular deliveries so you never run out. EcoTowels hold 6-7 times their weight in water so they are more absorbent than traditional towels. Better Health and Safety.
Using Eco Towels is clearly the most sustainable way to get the best hair but why is great hair so important to us? You wear your hair everyday, it shapes your face and plays a major role in self perception. Getting a new hairstyle can be completely transformative; you leave the hair salon with a spring in your step and that feel good feeling. Having or not having hair can also be life changing. There have been endless make over programs and youtube is full of hair tutorials. At EcoTowels we believe great hair shouldn’t come to the cost of the environment.
Other than supporting Ecotowels, how else can hair salons be more ecofriendly and sustainable? There are serval ways in which hair salons could become more eco friendly such as using a water butt system, using eco shower heads that control water usage, creating a refill system for products used, separating chemical water waste or simply creating a 114
@ecotowels.uk
The lipstick you love contains palm oil. Don’t love lipstick? How about crisps? Ice cream? Soap? A of tropical forests and wildlife. Rather than ditch all these products, WWF is working to make the shared home.
About half the products in the supermarket contain it, but palm oil often comes at the expense em more Earth friendly. Insist on certified sustainable palm oil. Together, we’re looking after our
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