Michael on the Map

Michael on the Map presents Michael at the Lake

In this series I will be traveling to the towns of northeastern Georgia and western North and South Carolina, sharing my adventures and discoveries as I meet the locals who make up the area. Hop in my Jeep and let’s hit the road!

Take 6: Lake Burton’s Timpson Creek

By the time it came time to chronicle my June travels, the forests of Northeast Georgia had at last reached full flourish, offering a dazzling color wheel of botanical greens intermingled to forge a lush, vibrant outdoor landscape. Having pushed through the forest floor and unfurling their coiled caps, the ferns were now tall and full, beginning to bend and round themselves back towards the earth. Bright nuggets of pincushion moss punctuated the thriving woodland habitat, and dogwood blossoms once again crowed their formerly winter-barren branches. Wildflowers aplenty!

With the threat of a freeze finally out of the woods, it was time to wander back into them and play. And play I do well, especially in woodland water bodies. Having journeyed last month to Lake Rabun, it was now time for a trip to Lake Burton, this time with swim trunks, Vuarnets (my all-time tops sunglasses), a dinosaur float, and neon zinc oxide. So, blasting David Bowie, I was off in my Jeep in pursuit of another perfect day at the lake. Constructed in a deep valley along a 10-mile stretch of the Tallulah River basin, Lake Burton – a 2,775-acre reservoir with 62 miles of shoreline – is the largest lake in Rabun County. Dammed in 1919 and filled in 1920, it was nearly surrounded by national forest. So remote was this lake that it was not accessible by car until the 1960s; then a destination only for true wilderness explorers. Aside from a handful of cabins, the lake remained practically unsettled until the 1970s, with more aggressive housing development really taking off in the 1980s. Cecile Thompson – local purveyor of eclectic and colorful home and interior design and products – has been connected to this lake since the 1950s, her family having had one of the original cabins. “I grew up coming to the lake with my aunt, uncle and cousins,” Cecile reminisced, “I’ve always loved Lake Burton.” But she recalls it was not always so easily reached. Cecile – who was raised mostly in Rabun County – shared, “It was quite a trip to come from Atlanta (as most people did), or from anywhere. And you didn’t go to Atlanta from Rabun County at the drop of a hat, either. 985 wasn’t here yet… It was a haul to get here.” Timpson Creek – one of the many streams that flows into Lake Burton – derives its name from John Timson, who was the first Cherokee Indian to be baptized, and (as the legend goes) whose baptism occurred in the creek itself. Just up from this small but historic watercourse sits Cecile’s Timpson Creek Gallery, which was once her uncle Rabun Ramey’s beer joint; a kind of back-door speakeasy spot to swallow down a few cold ones. “It was fun to come to Uncle Rabun’s. I learned to do the Funky Chicken here!” Cecile announced from a sofa in her gallery. In the late 1960s-early 1970s it served as the Lake Burton Tavern until that was shut down and it began its metamorphosis into its current realization as a “big room of beautiful things”, as I declared it during my visit. What was once twice a beer joint became a furnituremaking workshop in 1972, when Cecile’s husband Dwayne took over the building and began expanding his talents and craftsmanship. Cecile eventually took over the space to expand her gallery and design consultation business, and Dwayne built a second structure to house his furniture and iron workshops, mediums he often uses in concert. Says Cecile, “If I wouldn’t have it in my house, I won’t have it in my store. And it’s very important for me to work with American craftsmen and artists.”

Also housed in this second building is the studio of renowned Georgia artist Libby Mathews, whose pieces are inspired by both the Timpson Creek area, and the ever-evolving personality of the gallery itself. “Each day, I show up and do the work with determination, fear, anxiety, passion, focus, vision, excitement, and gratitude.” I very much enjoyed popping in on the artist at work. Just steps away from Timpson Creek Gallery down a windy little road at beautiful Timpson Cove lies Anchorage Boat Dock. The town of Burton may have been sunk to create the lake, but back in 1959, some of the submerged artifacts such as timbers and rock were retrieved, and construction began on a marina. Purchased by Susanne and Charles Poole in 1967, Anchorage has remained a Poole family product for all 55 years ever since. As one of the “few remaining treasures of Lake Burton” another generation of Pooles is now at the helm, and Seth and Nikki, with the help of their two children, strive to maintain the original structures, styling, and ambience (such as their iconic locust post boat slips), while incorporating modern amenities. Also make sure to check out Take it on the Lake (in the house Seth grew up in), which is operated by Seth and Nikki’s daughter, Emma. Really gaining wings and taking off 5 years ago, it was Emma’s vision to expand on the classic marina menu of hot dogs and ice cream. “I’m really excited to share our handcrafted sandwiches, especially our famous pimento cheese and chicken salad!” Emma said. They also offer salads, hand-scooped ice cream, smoothies, milkshakes, and charcuterie boards to create your perfect on-the-water picnic. Open Memorial through Labor Day, online ordering is encouraged. The day I was there, Emma had not yet opened for the season, but Cecile had slipped a juicy secret in my pocket anyway, and I had been essentially ordered to go to The Lake Burton Café and try their famous dive salad and “the best tater tots in the world”. I did as I was told.

Greeted by owner Heidi Timko, “The Last of the Dives” did not disappoint on its self-classification, and neither did the salad or the tots. Also known for their burgers, wings, and pizza, I was feeling particularly fishy, so added a fried cod sandwich (and onion rings) to my lunchtime feast. And a margarita. And made good use of the jukebox. Duh. Next time I’ll make use of the pool tables. And next door to Lake Burton Café is a final food option in tiny, eclectic Timpson Creek. Owner and Chef Vince Scafiti has created in The Farmhouse Market a menu of delicious freshly prepared grab-and go offerings – as well as offers catering services – while also providing some important grocery staples for the area. “Food that is fast. Not fast food”, is Vince’s motto.

After all this food I’ve mentioned, I sure hope you’re hungry. Another spot to check out on a day trip to Timpson Creek is Black Bear Creek, which prides themselves on stocking their shelves and floors with only genuine antiques. Owner and train enthusiast Jim Reaves even has a fully restored 1929 red caboose out back, available to rent on Vrbo. Choo-choo! I didn’t get to play in the lake on this day, but I returned on the next to jump off a friend’s boat dock and utilize my inflatable T-Rex. Because I’m always a kid at heart. The Timpson Cove public beach is also right around the corner and available to anyone wanting lake access. I, of course, recommend bringing an oversized animal float. Oh, and when you head over to Timpson Creek, be sure to stop by and ask Cecile about old prankster Rainbow English and the tricks he played on the neighborhood kids growing up. Tell her Michael on the Map sent you. The folks in this area are full of stories. Which brings me to the end of mine for today. Putting down the pen, putting on a steak, and pouring a glass of wine. Until next month’s travels to the other side of Lake Burton, Bowie and I fare thee well.

“Oh you Pretty Things, don’t you know you’re driving your mamas and your papas insane?”