Michael on the Map

A Visit to Clayton by Michael Detrick

In this series I will be traveling to the towns of northeastern Georgia and western North and South Carolina, sharing my adventures and discoveries as I meet the locals who make up the area. Hop in my Jeep and let’s hit the road! Take 10: Clayton, GA With summer ebbing away and a random turned leaf showing up at the end of a branch or on the forest floor (or in my Jeep because I left the roof off), I pondered where to chronicle this month’s explorations in southern Appalachia. By and by, I decided to be wild and not go anywhere at all. Or rather, that I would not stray from my immediate local area. Let me give you a little history on that. Raised on a canal that led to a bay that led to the gulf in Panama City, FL, after college I ventured to the West Coast, but eventually made my way back to the South, via Atlanta. After several years working in high-rise corporate America, I decided to get off the hamster wheel and out of the city and move to the woods and foster my creativity. My family has had a cabin in Clayton for years, so, last summer, I just put everything I owned (except my clothes and my record collection) in a storage unit and left the city of 71 Peachtree Streets for the backwoods of Rabun County. I’ve been sharing my journeys and historical discoveries with you for 10 months now, so I thought I would share a little more about my personal history. Also, I have no balloon-faced bee stings or hissing timber rattler encounters to report, so things have been relatively calm here. Yay. I also want to preface that I could write a book about Clayton and the things to do and see here. Alas, this is a column, not a novel, so what you are reading is very abridged and particularly intimate. With a 2022 census population right at 2,000, Clayton is the County Seat of Rabun County. Founded in 1821, the town today stands in what was long ago known as The Dividings, named so for being the junction of five major trails that connected the Cherokee of Rabun County to other places across the Southeast. In historic fashion, Clayton was just recently designated an official Trail Town by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy. So, let’s go hiking! Of the abundance of waterfalls in Rabun County, I first became aware of the two that are closest to our family’s cabin. More remote than most

Black Rock Mountain State Park Overlooking Downtown Clayton

and always a beauty to behold, deep in the Chattooga River Ranger District of the Holcomb Creek Falls Chattahoochee National Forest you will find Holcomb Creek Falls and Ammons Creek Falls. You must travel to the first (Holcomb) to reach the second (Ammons). Basically in my backyard, I owe these two a certain allegiance. The 1.75-mile out and back trail that accesses these falls is considered moderately challenging and takes just over an hour for most to complete. The trail to the first falls is downhill on the way there and uphill on the way back. It is the opposite for the second falls, so picture the entirety of the trail like a bowl. It is often very narrow and rootladen, can be fairly steep, and incorporates a brief switchback footprint. It’s really not as treacherous as I make it sound, but it is definitely a workout. Approaching Holcomb Creek Falls, the roar of water rings through the dense forest, and, rounding a final turn, a wooden bridge appears, which traverses Holcomb Creek. It is from this bridge that you can take in this spectacular 120-foot waterfall gushing down through the trees and rocky mountainside. Crossing over the bridge and continuing up the trail, it doesn’t take too long to reach the also impressive Ammons Creek Falls, which cascades 40 feet, but seems like much more because you are so close to it. There was once a large observation deck, but only the remnants of its foundation remains today. There are large rocks from which you can still get a great view of the falls. Here you can really become one with nature; you can feel the mist on your skin. Invigorating. I generally take our ATV (a Kawasaki Mule) to get to the trailhead of these falls, but you can easily find directions online. I will warn that the sign that once marked the trailhead is currently gone but use your GPS and look for a white stripe painted on large oak, and you have found it. (You will pass Warwoman Dell and The William Bartram Trail en route to my little piece of forested paradise. You should also check this area out.) Moving out of the woods and into town, let’s crank up some Bobbie Gentry and hit the road! Ammons Creek Falls Main Street and the outlying area of downtown Clayton has really revved itself up in recent years and seen a surge in the number and variety of businesses it showcases. Boutiques, outfitters, art and antique galleries, housewares stores, restaurants, an apothecary and curiosity shop, an old school soda fountain, a brewery, a wine bar… These are many of the diverse places you will find on a stroll down historic Main Street. While downtown has seen a surge in unique additions in recent months, there are some time-tested anchors that everyone who visits the area should not miss. Likely the most iconic structure on Main Street is Reeves Ace Hardware Company. Housed in the Bavarian-inspired original building that got it all started back in 1928, Reeves today is much more than just a hardware store. While they offer the expected merchandise their name suggests, also within their hallowed three levels – which forms the largest contiguous retail space on Main Street – you will find an “ole tyme” general store atmosphere, as well as clothing and shoes departments, everything for your outdoor/camping and grilling needs, firearms and ammunition, a

Michael pictured with Courtney Carpenter and Emma King of Reeves Hardware

full service-furniture department, a fly, and sport fishing shop, and even a bridal area. Fourth generation family member and Human Resource Manager Savannah Reeves Page told me, “Reeves Hardware has been in business at the heart of Main Street Clayton since 1928. We love seeing all of our locals of 94 years, and also meeting new customers as they come shop small at Reeves.” Another staple of Main Street is Butler Galleries. Founded in 1996, Butler Galleries is a unique shopping experience. Housed in the historic red brick structure that was originally a Standard Oil, Goodyear, and Pontiac dealership, today the store is a fantastic place to go for anything from garden items, furniture, antiques, and more. “The store has been here 25 years. I have been a part of Butler’s for 11 years, and I purchased it two years ago,” said owner Sam Dinos. “We have 19 individual vendors here, so you’ve got quite the variety of merchandise. Everything from antiques to baby clothes.” As we look to our green mountains turning to all shades of red, orange, and yellow, Sam continued, “We’re getting ready for an incredible Fall. October is always our busiest month.” Look for the mannequin out front, who, like the leaves, also changes her clothes for the season. And hats. And names. For Fall 2022, “Pumpkin” is ready to greet you at Butler Galleries, and she is looking mighty “Fancy”, as is brought to mind by Bobbie Gentry’s original, and Reba McEntire’s cover. The shopping doesn’t end there, and the eateries are bountiful as well. On Main Street alone you have options for classic American bar food, BBQ, Cuban, oysters (high five from this Florida boy), contemporary farm-to-table, pizza and pasta, and another local landmark, The Clayton Café. Look for the vintage sign out front and take a step back in time. Travel less than a mile to Hwy 441, and you’ll find one of the most popular dining spots in this part of the state. To enter Mama G’s Italian Restaurant and simply inhale is to fall in love. It smells that good. While I generally go for the lasagna or a calzone, you can’t really go wrong with anything on this menu. Bon Appetit! Returning to the geographical nature of this town that I’ve made home – while technically located in Mountain City (the next town north) – Black Rock Mountain State Park is of necessary mention both because it is the highest state park in Georgia, and because it boasts several scenic overlooks and 80-mile vistas of the surrounding Appalachian Mountains. I finished up this month’s local explorations atop Black Rock Mountain at 3,640 feet with a bird’s eye view and photograph of Clayton. It’s pretty fantastic up there. Speaking of heights, and because this song in particular reminds me of our family trips to these mountains growing up, I’ll leave you some lyrics from the 1990s supergroup Damn Yankees: “Can you take me high enough? Can you fly me over (fly me over) yesterday?” Pumpkin the Mannequin from Butler Galleries Mama G’s Lasagna & Garlic Knot