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CLUB RULES GIRLS/CLUB MANIFESTO TRUST
READ AND WATCH AND VIEW AND LEARN
What happens in GIRLS/ CLUB stays in GIRLS/CLUB.
From books, films, art and those around you – your mind will only improve.
HONESTY Tell her when she’s being a dick, when she’s got spinach in her teeth, and when she looks bangin’ – she will be thankful for all three.
EMPATHY Try to understand where someone is coming from, you will become a kinder person.
ENCOURAGEMENT
COLLABORATE
You can do it! Spread good vibes!
With friends, with strangers, with people you admire there’s a whole world of creativity out there, get involved!
DON’T COMPARE
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It’s an easy trap but a slippery slope – her success is SUPPORT not your failure. Have each other’s backs and MAKE MISTAKES don’t compete – the most Just learn from them – every important rule of GIRLS/ CLUB. sitaution is a life lesson when you have the right perspective.
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EDITOR’S LETTER
Welcome to the first issue of GIRLS / CLUB! Celebrating girl culture and the accomplishments of our sister-wives, we are a collective of young women who believe that when girls work together, wonderful things can happen. We wanted to publish a ‘zine created by women, for women, with the aim of showcasing the work of our creative, talented, and cool-as-hell contemporaries. Inspired by the words of American radio and television journalist Robert Krulwich, our aim is to collaborate with as many young women as possible: ‘You will build a body of work, but you will also build a body of affection, with the people you’ve helped who’ve helped you back. This is the era of Friends in Low Places. The ones you meet now, who will notice you, challenge you, work with you, and watch your back. Maybe they will be your strength. If you can…fall in love, with the work, with the people you work with, with your dreams and their dreams… Believe that what you and your friends have to say…that the way you’re saying it – is something new in the world.’ Go out there and get creative – us gals have enough of a hard time, so let’s not compete. Be each other’s champions, and have each other’s backs. We want to thank all the incredible girls who have contributed to GIRLS / CLUB, and who have made the first issue possible. We hope you enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed creating it.
Editor: Georgia Murray - Graphic Designer: Chollada Schmidt - Contributing Editor: Jessie Thompson Contributing Writers: Megan Conery, Tilly Alice, Tara Cooper, Sophie Bishop, Sarah Gibson, and Lucy Samantha Martin. Facebook: GIRLS / CLUB Instagram: @_girlsclubmag_ Email: girlsclubeditorial@gmail.com
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xoxo
CONTRIBUTORS Say hello to the fierce ladies that helped make the first issue of GIRLS / CLUB a reality.
Photographer Francesca Jane Allen shows us her series Girls! Girls! Girls! in the first issue. She’s previously worked with i-D, Topshop, and Lazy Oaf.
Best thing about being a young woman in 2014? I can do ANYTHING I please.
http://www.francescajane.com/
Song we need to hear? ‘I Love It’ – Icona Pop. Favourite things in life? California, sexy boys, and cute girls.
Witty writer and all-round babe Jessie Thompson challenges haters in ‘Bad Feminist’, responds to Tracey Emin’s view on female artists, and gives you a rundown of her favourite feminist texts in this issue.
Best thing about being a young woman in 2014? Men are scared of us.
Music writer and South East London resident Joanie Eaton shared a few of her poems with us. She works at Fred Perry and is slightly obsessed with Jaws.
Best thing about being a young woman in 2014? Best and worst thing: having access to Tinder.
Song we need to hear? ‘Heartbreakfree’ – Ji Neelson. Favourite things in life? Period dramas, cats, and the welfare state.
Song we need to hear? ‘The Killing Moon’ – Echo and the Bunnymen. Favourite things in life? English bull terriers, New Cross chicken shops, and the London Dungeons.
Molly Taylor is Communications Manager of contemporary art magazine Elephant. She studied English Literature at university, and has been writing poetry ever since. She shares some of her writing with us in the first issue.
Best thing about being a young woman in 2014? There’s a feisty young feminism that seems to be gathering steam in the UK – it’s led by women in their 20s, and that’s exciting to me. Song we need to hear? ‘Move and Groove Together’ – Benny Latimore.
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Favourite things in life? Leather Lane market, Bojack Horseman, and salmon.
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http://girlignited.com/
CONTRIBUTORS
Sophie Bishop organises a monthly comedy night Show and Tell in Bristol, where people read their writing aloud to an audience. She shares the story of how she tried to lose her virginity with us.
Best thing about being a young woman in 2014? The feminist blog Wrath. Song we need to hear? ‘Childhood Faith in Love’ - How to Dress Well. Favourite things in life? Coffee, girl pop punk, snacking, and TV series in bed.
Poet Pippa Milligan contributed a few of her pieces to GIRLS / CLUB’s first issue. She is co-founder of First in the Boat Poetry, a new SouthEast London-based collective.
Best thing about being a young woman in 2014? We’re almost equal.
www.facebook.com/ firstontheboatpoetry
Song we need to hear? ‘Outstanding’ – Gap Band. Favourite things in life? Dancing, reading, and eggs royale.
Writer and university of Sussex student Sarah Gibson dreams of a world with more women in politics in her comment feature for GIRLS / CLUB.
Best thing about being a young woman in 2014? It’s the best time ever (yet) to be a woman – here’s to making it better. Song we need to hear? ‘I’m Every Woman’ – Chaka Khan. Favourite things in life? Gin, liquorice cigarettes, and Caroline Lucas.
Best thing about being a young woman in 2014? I can be whomever I want to be.
www.cargocollective.com/ cholladaschmidt
Song we need to hear? ‘Wolf & I” – Oh Land Favourite things in life? Travel, art, football and all the liquorice. GI RLS/ CLUB
This ‘zine couldn’t have happened if it wasn’t for our insanely talented graphic designer Chollada. Hopping between London and Münster, she’s one half of team GIRLS / CLUB.
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CONTENTS
CURRENT FAVES
8
BAD FEMINIST
10
JESS GREEN
14
KILLIN’ IT
16
THAT 70S SHOW
23
GET UP, GIRL!
24
POETRY
34
GIRL LOVE
36
RETROSPECTIVE: GEORGIA O’KEEFFE
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CONTENTS
38 41
SO, THIS ONE TIME...PT.I
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HOLLABACK LONDON
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WE ARE THE WEIRDOS, MISTER
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DEAR TRACEY EMIN
48
GO YOUR OWN WAY
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DAMN GIRL, YA LOOK GOOD!
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FRANCESCA JANE ALLEN
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SO, THIS ONE TIME...PT.2
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WE NEED SOME MORE GIRLS IN HERE
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SISTAS ARE DOING IT FOR THEMSELVES
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PLAYLIST
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CURRENT FAVES Each month, we’ll share a few of our favourite things. Up first, feminist reads and photography.
PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE MOMENT Kate Davis, 20, lives in South East London and studies Commercial Photography at the Arts University Bournemouth. She says, ’I’ve always been interested in pushing boundaries of the art form and experimenting with mixed media to create thought provoking images’. Passionate about feminist and green issues, Kate explores current socio-political themes in her photography. Her aspiration? To b e a s u c c e s s f u l f e m a l e documentar y photographer/ photojournalist and for her images to continue to move, enlighten and challenge - GRRRL POWER! www.kaydiphoto.tumblr.com
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CURRENT FAVES
FE MINIST READS Feminist reads are all the rage this autumn, with new books from Lena Dunham and Roxane Gay.
A Room of One’s Own by Virginia Woolf
Female Chauvinist Pigs by Ariel Levy
Woolf’s thesis, that women needed a room of their own and £500 a year, sounds obvious now, but it was a vital point about structural economic inequality that posh-o knobhead David Cameron is still doing his utmost to undo.
You know when you were at school and everyone had a Playboy pencil case? That’s because lapdancing and glamour modeling was sold as post-feminist empowerment. Levy succinctly tells you why that’s a load of wank.
One Dimensional Woman by Nina Power
Misogynies by Joan Smith
The Beauty Myth by Naomi Wolf
‘And then I got to thinking: maybe the fact I have a vibrator, a pair of Louboutins, a man and an apartment did mean women’s lib had achieved all of its aims.’ Er, fuck off Carrie Bradshaw. Nina Power will tell you exactly why you’re wrong.
Yep, #everydaysexism was acceptable in the ‘80s too… Smith’s 1989 book is a fiery and funny whizz through women being screwed by the patriarchy, from the Virgin Mary to Princess Diana. And no, the screwing is not consensual.
This third-wave classic documents our persistent pressurized striving for an unattainable standard of beauty – read it and weep. It’s Wolf’s masterwork, until she started writing things like an autobiography of her own vagina.
Why be Happy When You Could be Normal by Jeanette Winterson Winterson survived being a lesbian in the ‘80s in Accrington with an evangelically religious mother and then lost the plot a few times. But kept finding it. And then wrote this poetic memoir which is like a punch in the gut.
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Top Girls by Caryl Churchill
Heartburn by Nora Ephron
When I studied this for A Level, I thought it was just a bunch of women talking over each other. And it is. But it’s also a ridiculously brilliant take down of Thatcher and proves that there’s no such thing as a right-wing feminist.
The late great screenwriter of classics like When Harry Met Sally based this novel on her own experience of being dumped by her husband when preg-o (arsehole). It’s reminder you can get through anything if you laugh about it.
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Jessie Thompson shares some patriarchy-busting page-turners to whet your appetite…
BAD FEMINIST
Me: ‘I’m a feminist.’ Them: ‘But…’ I know that reading things on the internet can often make you feel like you’re being swallowed into a blackhole – one that contains everyone who’s ever made you cry, a bad dream about your cat dying, and finding out that Lee from Blue is engaged (according to a friend). I also know there is a simple solution to this: don’t read things on the Internet that are written by people that distress you. Unfortunately, there are people that distress you in real life as well, and sometimes you have to encounter them - so this is going to act as your little go-to sheet of what to do when people confront your feminism. Words: Jessie Thompson
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‘But you wear heels/lipstick/ a teeny tiny dress etc’ Good news…I can do both! I shave my legs because I feel better about my body when I shave my legs. I’m not going to stop shaving my legs, but I am also going to be aware that I am doing it because I have been conditioned into thinking female body hair is gross. But I am also not going to write an article about shaving my legs, because I really don’t think anyone cares. When I was a teenager, I was troubled by the idea of being a feminist. ‘I mean, I think I want to be one, but does that mean I can’t wear make-up? Because my eyes look REALLY small without mascara’. So it was quite a revelation when I read this in The Beauty Myth:
I think there’s a lot more to it than that – we must also be aware of the wider context that involves a billion dollar beauty industry that preys on women’s insecurities in order to make a shit load of $$$. But what I’m trying to say is, in the hierarchy of ‘issues’, this is not THAT much of a big deal is it?
‘I’m a feminist, but…’ Normally followed by some sort of self-conscious statement that attempts to lessen the impact of being a feminist, because feminism is a dirty word - i.e., ‘but I don’t hate men’, ‘but I like wearing make-up’, ‘but I think EVERYONE should be equal’. Yes, ME TOO. You don’t need to say ‘but’! You are a feminist! Accept your fate! (Unless you’re not. In which case, please leave. You can’t sit with us.) GI RLS/ CLUB
‘The enemy is not lipstick, but guilt itself. We deserve lipstick, if we want it, AND free speech; we deserve to be sexual AND serious.’
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‘Criticising another woman is anti-feminist.’ The ultimate get out of jail free card. It’s rather strange to suggest that equality means allowing women to say whatever they want and not holding them to account or challenging them to it. It’s normally accompanied with, ‘Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and THAT is what feminism is all about.’ Yeah sure, Margaret Thatcher was entitled to her opinion, but she wasn’t a feminist, and to sit back and let her get on with it isn’t exactly feminist either…
‘Why can’t you accept a compliment? It’s flattering!’ Do you remember that story about how a room full of women at some meeting/conference thing were told, ‘Wow, you all look lovely.’ I can’t remember when/where exactly this happened, but I promise it deffo did – and then think, does anyone pop into a cabinet meeting and go, ‘Wow, you all look lovely.’ Sure, accept compliments on what you’re wearing (because you’re probs rocking it today, gurl), but be aware that no one is telling that man over there how nice his hair looks today.
‘Demeaning men just makes feminists look bad.’ First, I can’t even believe there are sentient beings who still insist on believing that feminism is synonymous with man-hating. I mean, I AM in the process of setting up an all-female alternative community with men as my slaves and concubines, but I don’t hate them. No but really, come on, feminists don’t hate men. They just hate douche bags. And I don’t care if that makes me look bad. I care about eradicating misogyny.
‘Aggressive feminists just undermine women. I am just getting on with being the best PERSON I can be.’ That is nice for you. I feel that ignorant women who think they live in a vacuum in which no women are oppressed because they personally do not feel oppressed, undermines women - but that’s where we differ, ey!?
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‘I don’t get involved in feminist debates because I have no interest in getting my head bitten off.’ Archaically offensive assumptions about feminists aside, people must be able to see that being scared to voice an opinion is a way of enforcing one’s own oppression. I don’t see what’s the worst that can happen if you get in a feminist argument and it gets a bit heated. Unless you’re scared someone will attack the choices you’ve made - in which case, why not defend them? Unless you’re feeling insecure about your choices – in which case, DON’T WORRY ABOUT IT. I feel insecure about plenty of my choices, and most of them are in my email outbox for posterity.
‘Why can’t you admit men and women are different? Biologically men are just stronger, etc.’ We can, but…. so what? I don’t see how acknowledging that men are generally physically stronger has anything to do with not being sexist - but if anyone wants to illuminate me, please do. And send me photos of sexy men whilst explaining. (OMG, am I a misandrist?)
‘It’s about what you do. It’s about your own actions. It’s not about being a woman.’
To summarise: if you think I am ‘too strident’, aggressive, or that there are flaws in my theories etc. – please don’t. I have four cats and I love Jane Austen. I am not here to make you feel comfortable. I am here to fight the patriarchy!! KA-POW!
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Anyone who seriously tries to use the meritocracy spiel can jog on; are you seriously trying to tell me that you succeeded because you’re the only person who is intelligent and worked hard? Do you think women are disproportionately represented in public life because there are just not that many good women? What about ethnic minorities? They’re just all a bit shit too, are they?
JESS GREEN HAS GOT A WAY WITH WORDS.
With over 250,000 views on YouTube, published poet and spoken word performer Jess Green created a video, Dear Mr Gove, which went viral - introducing politics to a new audience, and highlighting discontent with the Coalition’s cuts. Putting on poetry nights in the back rooms of pubs, and engaging children with poetry through teaching and workshops, Jess Green is exactly the kind of teacher we wish we’d had. The 24 year old chats to GIRLS / CLUB about poetry, politics, and festivals.
You are amazing! We saw Dear Mr Gove on Facebook as it went viral, and we couldn’t stop talking about it for days. Poetry Live! was perhaps my favourite part of GCSEs – seeing John Agard, Carol Ann Duffy and Simon Armitage perform with such tenacity was really inspiring, and opened me up to poetry as an art form. Have you always been interested in poetry, or is it the performative aspect that you were drawn to? Thank you, I’m really glad you liked the poem! I can’t
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remember a time when I didn’t write. I discovered performance poetry when I was studying in Liverpool and there was a real culture of people performing poems in the backs of pubs. I loved it. I used to find a different event each night. It was normally me and a group of 60-something men, but I loved the excitement of being able to tell a story to a room of strangers and in turn be surrounded by other people’s stories. Some of them were men who had grown up working on the docks, people who had lived totally different lives to me and who I would never normally 14
get a chance to speak to - but in this situation it was Emily Bronte, Charlotte Bronte, Harper Lee. The list perfectly normal for them to tell me detailed stories goes on… about their wives and children and memories. Which poem, play, and novel would you recomWhy do you feel particularly disillusioned with the mend to someone unfamiliar with the world of litcoalition government? You come from a family of erature and looking to fall in love with it? teachers, so is it mainly the education reforms that Poem – Row by Carol Ann Duffy. Play – A Taste of have angered you? It’s obviously inspired Burning Honey by Shelagh Delaney. Novel – To Kill a MockBooks, your show set in a secondary school suffer- ingbird by Harper Lee. ing from the cuts, which you took to the Edinburgh How did your monthly poetry performance/rap Fringe this year. Can you tell us a bit more about evening, Find the Right Words, come about? What the show? has been your favourite element of it? I work in a lot of schools. I hear how teachers speak I started Find The Right Words just over a year ago in in staffrooms and yes, I come from a family of teachLeicester because there wasn’t really anywhere else ers. They’re just worn down by what’s happened to in the East Midlands putting on the poets that I wantthe education system. They’re expected to reach uned to see. I’ve come to realise the best thing about realistic targets, which often involves working until running your own night is being able to pay your 10 or 11pm, they constantly have to produce reports favourite poets to come and perform for you! to prove that they’re working hard enough, whilst also trying to make a frankly dull and dry curricu- You played Bestival and Latitude this year. Is that all lum inspiring and stimulating. The blanket level of a bit surreal, or have you become used to performachievement that the government have rolled out ing live now? means all students have to make the same level of progress whether they come from a house that’s full of books, or if their family have just fled a war torn country. It’s ridiculous.
my A levels. She’s still one of my go-to poets for when Words: Georgia Murray I’m feeling crap. My list of inspiring women is al- Photo: Charlie Carr-Gomm ways a bit tenuous. I basically get inspired by women if they can talk more eloquently and intelligently than me (which is most of them!). When I’m stuck with something and not sure how to react or what to do I do always have a ‘what would ________ do?’ moment. The names that usually fill that space are Jack Monroe, Julia Gillard, Victoria Coren, Harriet Harman, Yvette Cooper, Joni Mitchell, Suze Rotolo,
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I still find the festivals a bit surreal. Last year I was on just after Hollie McNish and was terrified to be stepping in to such massive shoes. I get nervous before festival gigs because it’s like the ‘real deal’, you can’t However, having said all of that, Burning Books isn’t mess that up. Everyone’s in their happy, lazy, not-aan hour long left wing, militant rant. It’s meant to be care-in-the-world festival vibe, and if you get up on quite light hearted. There are lots of different charac- stage and cock it up then you’re going to ruin that! ters who work in this fictional school – the librarian Finally, what words of advice would you give to who hates children and takes books to the tip, the young women wanting to a) enter the world of work experience student in P.E furiously supporting writing and performance, and b) make their career Movember, and the 60 something teacher on the aspirations take flight? picket line defending her pension. It’s a music and In terms of advice about writing and performing spoken word show and I’m working with two brilliant you can’t really say anything but just do it. Write as musicians, Dave Morris and Will Savage. much as you can, read and watch as much as you You taught workshops in secondary schools where can, find out what you like, and don’t be scared to children wrote replies to traditional and modern say you don’t like something even if everyone else poetry. They were then published in a collection does. Find a local poetry night and go along, then entitled Call Back, inspired by poet laureate Car- go again and do a poem, see what response you ol Ann Duffy’s collection Answering Back. Which get, and post something on YouTube or Soundcloud. women particularly inspire you? Just do what you love as much as you can and see I’ve liked Carol Ann Duffy since I read Rapture during what happens.
GAL, YOU’RE KILLIN’ IT From film producers to artists, coders to DJs: we talked to nine young women who are making waves with their creativity and inspiring others to start collectives, pick up their cameras, and collaborate. These girls are killin’ it…
$ister $ister Jade French and Liv Jeffes are writers, DJ under the name $ister $ister, and co-run the amazing arts collective Not So Popular, through which they curate exhibitions, cultural events and club nights. As if that wasn’t enough to inspire you, Jade is also the lady behind the curated arts activism book Let’s Start a Pussy Riot. Could these girls be any cooler?! How did you start Djing? Liv: We had enough of boys playing shit music in clubs about bitches and ho’s and thought it was about time some girls had a go. Jade had played in Manchester for a few years in clubs, and started Sister Sister as a student radio station and club night. I returned from Melbourne, where I’d been taking over parties by blasting Aaliyah et al, and we started DJing together at the night. What’s up next? Liv: We just got back from some festival sets, and now have a few
Jade: Yeah, the fact that ‘feminism’ is being re-evaluated and
residencies and sets around London. We’re often in different places
celebrated. As much as people may find Beyonce’s feminism
but we let people know via our Facebook page and Twitter.
problematic, how many more people have discovered the amazing TED talk by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie because of it? That
Favourite places to eat, drink, and go out in London?
juxtaposition of popular culture and feminist thinking is something
Liv: I love Canavan’s in Peckham for some pool playing and drinks.
pretty unique to 2014. Even 10 years ago pop culture preached
Jade loves eating at the Hackney Bureau. But my heart will always
‘Girl Power’, too afraid to get to grips with the word ‘feminist’. Being
be with Platform Bar at Netil House in East London <3
a young woman now means embracing the good and bad bits of what has come before and carving new pathways, in a new voice.
Which females do you admire? Liv: Barbara Walters. Gwen Stefani. Roxane Gay. Suzanne Moore.
Finally, what are your top 3 fail-safe tunes for a night out?
Jade: That’s a tricky one really, there’s so many. Always a bit of
Liv:
Gwen. And then people like Chris Kraus, M.I.A, and Gloria Steinem.
Madonna - ‘Holiday’ Solange - ‘Losing You’ TLC - ‘No Scrubs’
What’s the best thing about being a young woman in 2014? Liv: I personally feel lucky to be part of another wave of feminism, meeting other women who are doing amazing things. And people
Jade:
like you who are putting together a wonderful publication to
Tweet feat Missy Elliot - ‘Oops (Oh My)’
showcase these young women who are able to recognise injustice
Eve - ‘Who’s That Girl?’
and discrimination but have the confidence to achieve despite it.
TLC - ‘No Scrubs’... it’s our unofficial anthem
We’re a generation of young women who are getting less and less afraid to use the word ‘feminist’ to describe ourselves, and to stand
www.notsopopular.com
up to instances of everyday misogyny. That makes me feel lucky, and
Facebook: Sister Sister DJs
proud, and hopeful for the future.
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Bex Day Bex Day is a 22-year-old fashion and documentary photographer from London. She is also photography editor of a new bi-annual magazine, PYLOT, which only uses analogue photography with no beauty retouching. Her clients include magazines TANK, Vice, and Wonderland, and brands such as Vidal Sassoon and Reiss. Tell us a bit about your photographic style My style is quite dark and always has a narrative. The images are organic; I shoot on film and don’t tend to retouch very much. I am very into colour blocking. How did you first get into photography? I literally just picked up a camera last year and worked harder than ever before. What is your favourite thing to photograph? Probably unique, weird looking people on the street…but I’m beginning to mix documentary style with my fashion work, so I creating fashion stories out of real life situations. Are photos best when planned or spontaneous? For me it’s a mix; with fashion it needs a lot of planning, but if it’s documentary then obviously it’s spontaneous. What’s the weirdest thing that’s happened on set? I did an editorial using twins a couple of weeks ago. One set of elderly twins kept finishing each other’s sentences, whispering to each other and mimicking each other’s actions - it was incredible. Favourite female photographer? Diane Arbus. What’s the best advice you’ve been given on life in general and on photography? Never regret anything – that applies to life and photography. Best advice for girls looking to get into photography? Before you can become a photographer you need to understand psychology. What’s up next for you? I’m assisting photographer Ryan McGinley and living in New York for the next 3 months. I am in the process of planning my next shoot for Vice and another one for Client magazine. The second issue of PYLOT is out in December. What are the best and worst things about living in London? For me it got too predictable, which is why I’ve left for a bit - but I am sure I will learn to love it again. The best things are all the memories I have from growing up all over the city. Living in NY has made me appreciate that we can drink on the street too. Your 3 favourite songs? Hans Zimmer - ‘You’re So Cool’ Anthony Hamilton - ‘Freedom’ Regina Spektor - ‘Us’
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www.bexday.com
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KILLIN’ IT
Nastasia Alberti Nastasia Alberti, 22, is a French self-taught photographer, and has lived in London for seven years. She only works with analogue and never retouches her photographs. How did you get into photography? When I was 12, I went to an exhibition about Francesca Woodman, and I saw a photograph that she took of herself where she is disappearing into the wall. It had a very strong impact on me, from then on I knew I wanted to do the same. Tell us a bit about your photographs and what you try and convey with them? I only work with film. When I take a photo I’m trying to show emotions and feelings that I think only film can capture. It has a rawness that I love, and it’s physical nature means that one photo captures one moment and you only get a few chances per roll. What’s next? I want to collate the photos from my travels into a book. I’m also looking towards moving to New York. What’s the best thing about being a young woman in 2014? I’m part of an all female art collective – Not So Popular, ran by Jade and Liv of $ister $ister - and I think that it’s really shown me how much young women help each other. Especially within the art scene, but on a bigger scale too, I see women coming together more than ever. What’s the best advice you’ve been given about photography? Don’t care too much about the technical aspects of things. Mistakes are beautiful. What are your favourite places to eat, drink, and go out in London? My favourites restaurants are Food for Thought when I want lunch, and The Gate in Hammersmith for the best vegetarian dinner. I mostly go out in east London - l love Shoreditch. And for drinks, Ruby’s and Lounge Bohemia. G IRLS/CLUB
What are your favourite three songs? Cat Power - ‘Cross Bones Style’ Pj Harvey - ‘Oh My Lover” Radiohead - ‘Everything in it’s Right Place’
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KILLIN’ IT
Baby Face Claire Burman, 24, is an Events Assistant for the British Fashion Council, and with her partner in crime and fellow Sussex uni graduate, Nellie Eden, runs website BabyFace, a little black book of all the coolest women out there right now. I absolutely love your website! Can you tell us a bit about how and why BabyFace came about? Nellie and I got chatting one day and decided that we knew so many females killin’ it in that somebody needed to be shouting about them. A year later and lots of chats, ideas and meetings BabyFace was born. Do you feel that there isn’t enough mutual support between women in the creative/fashion industries, and is this because it’s so damn hard to get a job? Have you both experienced any negativity in this way? I can say that I’ve been fortunate enough to not experience any negativity from women whilst working in the creative/fashion industry. I think I’ve been underestimated for being a young female at times, but I have felt like there has always been support between female peers and colleagues. Have you had a positive response to your website? Absolutely! The response from both females and males has been really positive. We want it to be a little creative hub that people can visit and gain inspiration, support and ideas. What advice would you give to girls trying to set up a collective; and what would you say to young creative women looking to get into the fashion industry? Its always good to have a little side project, and if you believe in something you’ll find the time. Work with your best friends - it is the best! Advice for getting into the fashion industry - get as much experience as possible, doing anything! It all counts and you’ll never know who you might meet along the way. Has the website opened any unexpected or exciting doors for you both? The website has allowed us to meet a whole host of incredible ladies which is something I think is really special. BabyFace still feels so new and fresh and we›ve still got lots of exciting ideas to explore that we hope will allow us to open up a few more doors! What’s next? Keep.on.working.hard! Video content, new user functions, lots more exciting girls and weekly features. What do you love about working with Nellie? It doesn’t feel like work. Any words of wisdom for women in their early 20s having quarter-life crises?
Favourite hang out in London? The Ace Hotel & Bardens. http://www.bbyfce.com
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Nothing is ever permanent unless you want it to be.
KILLIN’ IT
Olivia Jardine Olivia Jardine is a 23-year-old Sussex graduate living and working in South East London. She is the Marketing & Communications Officer for the PSHE Association, and has recently co-founded Django Girls UK (djangogirls.org), a coding workshop for young women. Tell us a bit about what you do?
Celia Mae Jones
I work for a small charity which campaigns for PSHE education, and
Hey Celia, can you tell GIRLS / CLUB a bit about yourself and what
with sexuality and gender, such as guidance on how to talk to young
you do?
people about consent and debunking rape myths.
better sex education for young people. I’m involved in projects to do
Part time club promoter and DJ, full time nerd. What is Django Girls UK, how did you get involved? How did you first get into DJing and putting on your own night?
I first got involved while in Berlin this summer. A tech conference
I got into through twisting a friends arm to let me play some songs
called EuroPython was offering funding for young women to go
at their night. Had lots of fun doing it, and started up a night of
along and receive free training in computer programming and web
my own, with a group of friends, which ran for a couple of years.
development. It taught me that tech is a sector that actually opens
Recently, I’ve been involved in two nights; Mirage, which is an Italo
doors to a lot of creative jobs. As a result, myself and one other
Disco / HI-NRG party; and Kollaps, a post-industrial queer disco,
attendee from London set up Django Girls UK. We aim to get more
with late night live acts.
women into tech by enabling women with no previous experience to create a web application from scratch. It’s free to attend and it aims
What’s the club scene like in Brighton compared to other places?
to be as diverse as possible.
Honestly, Brighton’s ‘club scene’ doesn’t really exist for me. The presence of students and tourists, coupled with the lack of smaller venue
What’s up next?
space, makes it very hard for anything interesting to grow. Clubs are
We’re finalising the plans for our first workshop. It will be in central
super competitive here.
London, with programming tuition throughout the day followed by drinks in the evening, when a group of women who currently work
What’s next?
in tech will be talking about their experiences.
Mostly just to maintain my existing projects, bringing down more live acts and performers. I’m also looking to start a queer ballroom
What’s the best piece of life advice you’ve been given?
/ body positivity party in the coming months.
Don’t expect to fall straight into your dream job - bouncing from one job to another can make the most interesting and rewarding career.
Best advice you’ve been given about DJing/hosting club nights? Never ever worry about mixing, and have the most fun possible.
What’s the best thing about being a young woman in 2014? The ability to connect with and learn from other women and feminists
What would you say to girls looking to get into doing what you
from all over the world, who have entirely different lived-experienc-
do?
es.
Even if you’re not good, do it anyway and keep doing it. If you’re using vinyl, don’t carry it in a tote bag.
Favourite places to eat, drink, and go out in London? My favourite place to eat is Honest Burger - I’ve tried to be adven-
Favourite 3 tracks right now (not current tracks, but what you’re
turous but nothing compares to their rosemary fries. To drink, Ye Old
listening to atm)?
Cheshire Cheese - an incredible old pub which has been around
Total Control - ‘Carpet Rash’
since the 1500s and serves cheap Sam Smiths beers in it’s vaults. To
Golden Teacher - ‘Rashomon’
go out, the Ace Hotel in Shoreditch is pretty amazing.
Cellophane - ‘Gimmie Love’ Favourite 3 songs right now? G IRLS/CLUB
Failsafe tracks to get people dancing at your club nights?
Banks - ‘Warm Water (Snakehips Remix)’
Alden Tyrell - ‘Lord of the Cockrings’
Jungle - ‘Busy Earnin’’
Skatt Bros - ‘Walk The Night’
King Creosote & Jon Hopkins - ‘Bats in the Attic’
Cori Josias - ‘Taking It Straight’
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KILLIN’ IT
Anna Pallares Anna Pallares, 21, is an autodidact artist living in Barcelona. Often focussing on her sexuality as the subject of her work, she uses bright colours of acrylic paint, thick strokes, and exaggerated figures to convey her message: ‘beautiful shit that comes directly from my mind and heart’. What do you aim to get across in your art? I want people to feel what I’ve felt before. What’s next? My first solo show here in Barcelona and then I’m moving the London! I have upcoming shows at the Juxtaposed Gallery, and Juno Bar in Shoreditch. What’s the best thing about being a young woman in 2014? That you can love other women. Favourite places to eat, drink, and go out in Barcelona? My favorite place to go and chill is a space named La Central del Carrer Mallorca. It’s an old library with a small café where you can read books on the terrace and just listen to the birds while you’re in the middle of the city. My favorite places to go out for a beer are El Mariachi, a bar founded by Manu Chao, and Nevermind, which has a skate park inside. Favourite songs? Nirvana - ‘Come as You Are’ David Bowie - ‘Rebel Rebel’
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The Smiths - ‘You Just Haven’t Earned it Yet, Baby’
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KILLIN’ IT
Savannah Fox Cub Films Savannah James-Bayly is a 22-year-old film producer, currently living in Peckham. Having single-handedly established her own production company, Fox Cub Films, at just 20, she’s also assisting industry veteran Paul Raphael. How did you get into the film industry? Both my parents are in the industry, so I was fed on scripts and
What’s next?
rushes as a kid, but in my pathetic teenage rebellion I tried to forge
I am eager to get going on my first feature as lead producer, and
my own career path, and so I initially pursued an academic interest
have a few scripts at development stage. I’m also enjoying working
in Molecular Biology. In my gap year I went to visit my dad, who
as an assistant a few days a week, learning from someone who’s
was teaching at the International Film School in Cuba. I was meant
working at a larger scale and really knows their stuff. Alongside that
to stay at the school for four days before going off elsewhere, but I
I’m line producing a short film, Bricks, co-written & directed by Nev
stayed for over a month. I got back to the UK, started university, and
Pierce, editor-at-large of Empire magazine. It’s a brilliant script with
my heart wasn’t in it. I joined UCL’s film society and met all these
some great talent attached so I’m pretty excited about that
crazy creatives making shorts for zero budget. I found that I knew a lot more than I expected, and quickly I could see that there was a
Which actresses and female directors do you admire?
lack of good producers!
Only 18% of speaking roles in films are female parts – that’s devastating! But I think that trend is bucking, slowly but surely. Tilda
The following summer I worked at the National Film & Television
Swindon, Emma Thomson, Jennifer Lawrence, and Jessica Chastain
School as a fundraising assistant, where I met one of their very tal-
are not only incredible actresses but are also some pretty inspiring
ented graduating writers, Maurice Caldera, who I partnered with to
human beings. Behind the camera there is a lot of great emerging
produce a short he’d written, Camilla in the Looking Glass. Emily
talent. It’s appalling that only about 4% of box office films are direct-
Morgan, a producer from the school came on board as an Executive
ed by women. Lone Scherfig is awesome, and Clio Bernard is mega
Producer, and so we ran the production through her company, Quid-
talented.
dity Films. Half way through the shoot an accident meant a pretty expensive bit of kit got broken, and although we were insured, I spent
Favourite thing about being a young woman in 2014?
about a week feeling horrible that somehow it might come back to
There’s been a re-emergence of feminism and discussions about gen-
bite Emily, and so I decided it was time to form my own company
der inequality. The rhetoric that women-led films don’t make money
so that all responsibilities were mine in the future. About a month
is finally being shattered. Lots of people are now raising their voices
later Fox Cub Films was born, and we’ve since produced five more
against the status quo.
short films and are now looking towards our first feature. Somehow amongst all that I also managed to get a Molecular Biology degree,
Favourite songs at the moment
which I’m pretty chuffed about!
Jeff Buckley - ‘Lover, you should have come over’. I love Fleetwood Mac, The Band, Creedence Clearwater, Tom Waits, and pretty much
What does your job entail?
all funk.
As a producer you’re basically responsible for all elements of a film. Your job is to see the idea go from the page to the screen and be-
What piece of advice would you give to someone looking to enter
yond. You report to yourself so you have to be self-motivated. A
the film industry?
typical day for me might be spent researching funding opportunities,
Perseverance is key. Also your contact list is your biggest asset. It’s
checking out upcoming talent, reading scripts and giving feedback,
such a collaborative industry that you won’t get anywhere alone.
checking in with everyone working on active projects to make sure they’re all on top of their work, keeping up to date with industry
On the 15th December a program of short films that Savannah has
news, and planning for my next week. I have a very good relation-
produced through Fox Cub Films is screening at The Arthouse Cin-
ship with my laptop, and a very efficient to do list. The reason I love
ema, Crouch End.
it is that you get to be involved in every stage of a project, so it’s
Get your tickets at: http://www.arthousecrouchend.co.uk/
very varied.
Facebook: Fox Club Films
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Throwback:
That 70s Show Every month we take a look at ladies from each decade that defined iconic style. First up, the 70s. The era’s fashion was all about experimenting – women started wearing suits, trousers got wider, and nightclubs in NYC saw sparkle and decadence reign supreme. Endless inspo and too many girl crushes to count (you’re welcome).
Grace Jones
Debbie Harry
Charlotte Rampling
Diane Keaton
The inimitable model-turned-singer had
Grand Dame of punk and ultimate cool girl,
Brit actress and current face of Nars (she’s
Actress Diane (Woody Allen’s real-life ex
the most distinctive style of the 70s. All
Blondie’s leading lady embodied a rebellious
still got it), Char’s seductive beauty and
and on-screen GF in Annie Hall) worked
sex, masculinity, and angles, Grace’s look
style influenced by New York’s youth culture.
casual style made her an icon of the era. Her
masculine androgyny like no other. With her
was more art than fashion. By way of
She clashed her iconic white-blonde hair
penchant for a tailored suit, boyfriend shirt,
awkward charm and boyish get up, Keaton
extravagant headwear, sharp tailoring, and
with monochrome minis, animal print, and
and oversized coat, gave her sex appeal a
led the pack with wide-legged trousers,
contoured make up, she was known for her
flashes of electric blue eye shadow – yes,
boyish edge.
waistcoats over buttoned-up shirts, and of
decadence, individuality, and more-is-more
Debs!
course, the bowler hat. Did we mention that
style.
she wore all her own clothes on-screen? Own.it.girl.
Farrah Fawcett
Jerry Hall royalty (Brian Ferry and Mick Jagger fell for her, and who can blame them?), Jerry was the pinnacle of Studio 54 glamour. All cheekbones and big hair, Jez owned disco glitz - think plunging necklines, red lips, and opulent jewel tones.
Lauren Hutton The model of the era (she’s appeared on 28 Vogue covers!), gap-toothed beauty Lauren favoured low-key tomboy vibes over the opulence of classic 70s style. Trench coats, canvas shoes, and plenty of layering, she nailed off-duty cool.
Bianca Jagger Nicaraguan actress, model and socialite (and Andy Warhol’s best pal) Bianca werked furs, sequins, Grecian draping, and legendary Yves Saint Laurent suits. Always the centre of attention (she arrived at her 30th birthday party on a white horse – gurl
Original Charlie’s Angel and the poster girl on every boy’s bedroom wall, Fawcett’s 70s style was athletic and all-American. With her layered locks, fresh face and megawatt smile, she was the ultimate girl-next-door. Her signature look included high-waisted jeans, floaty blouses, and sporty separates.
knows how to make an entrance), Bianca personified 70s power dressing.
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Original supermodel and ultimate rock
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GET UP, GIRL!
PHOTOGRAPHER: ANA BARREIRA MAKE-UP ARTIST: LOU STEFANI STYLIST: GEORGIA MURRAY ASSISTANT STYLIST: LUCY SAMANTHA MARTIN MODEL: NINA JULIETTA, FIRST MODEL MANAGEMENT
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shoot
T-SHIRT: BEYOND RETRO UNDERWEAR: COS
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KIMONO: AVON SLIP: TOPSHOP
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BRA: TOPSHOP UNDERWEAR: COS DRESSING GOWN: PRIMARK
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TOP: PRIMARK SKIRT: AMERICAN APPAREL
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COAT: TOPSHOP TOP: TOPSHOP
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COLLAGE: GEORGIA MURRAY
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POETRY
Each month, we’ll be showcasing the creative writing of our talented contributors. Up first, Molly Taylor, Joanie Eaton, and Pippa Milligan. Say it, gals!
BED SHEETS there is nothing worse than an unripe avocado and the sex with the four eyed stranger and his awkward socks and his fat toes as stalwart as his blonde beard who doesn’t stop talking about Japanese art films who looks like he’s missing a nostril or an eyelid (or both) when he says ‘let’s get breakfast.’ he made me scream like a copper kettle so I fried the bacon. he didn’t even ask if he could do that thing with his finger G IRLS/CLUB
and we ran out of fabric conditioner yesterday. /BY JOANIE EATON
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POETRY ECZEMA Like the residue of dr y shampoo you’re clinging (still white) my calcium deficiencies so I stay. Close and far away (seems like a nice rhyme). Scarlet tongued cockles (Scarlet is his sister’s name). Stare at their Spaghetti filled plates. BREAKFAST MANNERS
You are as useful as an a m e r i c a n i s m But I’m still watering the cactus for
I’m probing for little bits of oat left in the bowl.
you.
My tide-taken head feels as though it is at sea, Bumping on egg-shaped rocks, still vigilant,
If I touch your arm with a nettle leaf, will it
still winking in salt.
ache?
“Do you know what the password was before You changed the first letter to upper case to increase security?”
/BY JOANIE EATON
The flat surface of my skull is cracking. PAST TRACES
It was only last week that I decided to leave you. Choking up a nugator y lightening storm
It looks alarmingly familiar, that bit of sunlit wall.
just beneath my spleen (where the soldier sat),
It feels terrible how little has changed.
I kept tr ying to explain
In chilly, reconciling light,
But the horizon tripped me ever y time. Across the room, I can see you tr ying
I saw the brown car again,
desperately to fold the cereal tab into its correct hole.
recognised it at once
I didn’t mean to be unclear.
under the red tree, aflame,
I want to wrap my limbs around the moon and push its chalky surface into the cave where my eye is.
ridiculously perhaps, with blossoms,
/BY MOLLY TAYLOR
like remembered dream fruit UNTITLED
it is still there, that dirt track, behind the school.
rectangle of night
Yes, things, like death and taxes, last
pours into the skies,
while people, like paper, crumple.
black and bright
/BY PIPPA MILLIGAN
reflected in her eyes; a lonely light ‘I nearly died’;
THE STUDENT’S DRESSING ROOM
she says and tells you more or less They are not stacked in my room.
the stor y of her scarred face.
Didn’t I say this yesterday afternoon?
Each imprinted, trailing tress
Not stacked, not sticky, not storing,
of pin pricks, a thousand tiny places,
Hoarding moulding plates of
pressed and expressed
not-quite fine-bone china.
and indented cases -
Nor do I have the cutler y you asked for -
Of skin or brow
Was it this morning?
Cut with eloquence,
The nightshaded knives,
And cigarette butts that glow,
the spore-smothered teaspoons
And tell of nights spent,—
Cuddling each other, shivering amongst bacteria.
Sat trembling below,
I am a pleasant, clean girl. I told you so.
that bridge,
I told you:
and those men
Please could you resign your concern,
who remain,
Sincerely, regards, monsieur.
acquitted. /BY PIPPA MILLIGAN
Please refrain from entering this place to share out its secrets, calling, “Would you like me to bring these to the kitchen?” /BY MOLLY TAYLOR
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I am handling the situation with care.
Babe, you don’t know how much I love you / You’re my best friend
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Unfortunately, my stoic personality and inability to and enough money to feed yourself may be the real handle #emotions, means that I only really tell my girl friends just how much I love and adore them when I’ve consumed too many substances at 4am in the grotty smoking area of a nightclub. It involves a lot of hugging, and usually the words, ‘babe, you don’t know how much I love you – you’re my best friend.’ Depending on their level of intoxication, the replies vary from ‘no, babe, you don’t understand, you’re my best friend’, to ‘u ok hun?’ Putting together this ‘zine has made me reflect on the megababes that I’m fortunate enough to have in my life. When people ask why I’m making it, I’ve found myself saying, ‘look at all the amazing, funny, intelligent, cool girls that are out there, working on really great projects, and working fucking hard – I want to show off their stuff, because it is GREAT’. I then realised that although I was making this statement about women in their late 20s/early 30s that are both intimidatingly cool and seemingly have their shit together, I am actually surrounded by girls who are doing exactly the same thing.
essentials, but a life without the endless and vast support system that is your girls would be pretty shitty one. A number of things are definitely not acceptable with an acquaintance/partner/boss/parent, that are totally acceptable with a best friend. For example, it is totally fine to be gross and nasty with your pals (my flatmate once vomited in the toilet in which I’d just done a poo. Yep, that really happened. We were both very, very high, in all fairness.)
You will take turns to hold each other’s hair back when you’ve had too much red wine at a party where you meant to act really demure and cool. There’s no judgement, only curiosity, when you ask each other if the stuff you like in bed is too freaky. They will be totally on board when the time comes to stalk your partner’s ex, and tell you that ‘ugh, gross, he has upgraded’. You will feel completely at home eating your bodyweight in Thai food and judging (but really loving) the cast of Made in Chelsea together. They will let you cry for eight The gals I know are killing it. They have great hours straight when your heart is broken. You will jobs on super cool art magazines. They’re part ask for their help when you’re having an existential of collectives to get girls all around the world into crisis – y’know, the one where you nearly cry in a coding, because fuck off is tech a man’s world. meeting at work, and the sight of a small dog tips They work within the charity sector because they’re you over the edge. dissatisfied with the way the world is, and are What girls get from their friendships with each actually doing something about it. One is a really other is totally different from what boys get. Yes, witty writer, and destined to be a best selling author. they may not go mad from overanalysing situations One left school at 16, moved to London alone and that really could have been dealt with simply. Yes, is now smashing it as an actress (she also owns a there’s something great about being able to sit in boat called The Hobbit, which is just fantastic). My near-silence with Fifa and a beer. But they don’t friends are creative, hard working, intelligent, and get the emotion! The rollercoaster of madness! Girls inspiring. need each other in order to know that they are not alone in their complicated, weird ways.
Basically, you can be your crappy, wonderful, complete self around your best friends. Your partner may ‘just totally get you’, and your parents may love you unconditionally, but it’s your girls who will be there at the end, probably with a G&T and spare make-up, to clean up whatever mess you’ve got yourself into now. I’m going to make more of The relationship between girls can be a complicated, an effort to let my friends know how amazing they multifaceted, and confusing thing. It is easy to are – because a friendship between girls is one of compare yourself to your friends, to feel jealousy, or the greatest thing you can experience. feel the need to compete. But once you realise that Words: Georgia Murray that her success is not your failure, and that those feelings are more to do with your own insecurity than anything you feel towards your gal pal, then you can see that a friendship between girls is the best thing in the world. Seriously. Okay, your health
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My flatmate was once given the advice that you should recognise what you do through someone else’s eyes, because we all look at what our contemporaries are doing and think, ‘holy shit, they’ve made it’, but we never think the same about ourselves. I want this ‘zine to be a recognition and celebration of the amazing stuff the girls I know – and have met in the process – are doing right now.
Retrospective:
Georgia on my Mind
In her prime, Georgia O’Keeffe was written about as the first great American female artist; she cultivated a creative voice that rejected traditional training, and asserted her place in history. The work she left behind is a comprehensive exploration of form, tone and America; flooded with a lyrical optimism that communicates the massive scale of the nation. Born on a dairy farm in 1887 in Sun Prairie, Wisconsin, O’Keeffe captured the claustrophobic industrialisation of American cities and the vast spread of mountains, hills and prairie that forms the country’s heart. Georgia began to display a talent for art at a very early age and by the age of seven she was receiving art lessons. At the age of twelve O’Keeffe declared: ‘I’m going to be an artist.’ After graduating from the Art Institute of Chicago she became increasingly disenchanted with the art world – refusing to join any mimetic art tradition, she yearned to distinguish herself and move away from the didactic, prescribed nature of art school.
Each issue, we’ll be looking back on the lives and works of our favourite inspiring artists.
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Whether painting or teaching, her life is marked by her ardent desire to work. And her work is permeated with a sense of sensuality, masculinity and tender humanity, representing her rejection of the traditional ideas of 20th century women. Never one to follow the herd, O’Keeffe’s oeuvre is void of European influence and empty of the Cubist, Impressionist and Dadist references that were so popular among her contemporaries. ‘I grew up pretty much as everybody else grows up and one day … I found myself saying to myself – I can’t live where I want to – I can’t go where I want to – I can’t do what I want to – I can’t even say what I want to –. School and things that painters have taught me keep me from painting as I want to. I decided I was a very stupid fool not to at least paint as I wanted to…’ Following her instincts, she began to experiment with a totally new approach. Drawing with crayons and charcoal, she produced a series of abstractions – lines, shapes and tonal values based on the forms found in nature and charged with emotion and imagination. Her career was catapulted by the loving support of her best friend Anita Pollitzer. Having assumed the role of agent, Pollitzer secretly sent some of O’Keeffe’s charcoal drawings to the famous 291 Gallery – owned by the celebrated photographer Alfred Stieglitz – who would become O’Keeffe’s husband. He later remarked, ‘I realised I had never seen anything like it before. All my tiredness vanished. I studied the second and the third, exclaiming, ‘Finally, a woman on paper! A woman gives herself - the miracle has happened’.’ In 1918 Georgia upped sticks and moved to New York to be with Stieglitz, as they had fallen in love via their letters. Despite the 23-year age-gap, not to mention Alfred’s wife and seven year old daughter, they embarked on a tempestuous relationship. They were married 4 months after Alfred’s divorce. From then on she was in the spotlight, shifting quickly between subject matter, experimenting and continuing to dazzle her audience. O’Keeffe rejected the erotic implications critics found in her work. And yet there is something innately sexual in those dazzling colours – a dynamic energy that leaps off the page. GI RLS/ CLUB
As her personal aesthetic developed O’Keeffe’s reputation as a formidable, intensely personal and independent pioneer grew along with it. Publicly she
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appeared strong, secretive and unapproachable – an image she would maintain for the rest of her life. Yet friends knew her as witty, charismatic and incredibly kind. Stieglitz took over 500 photographs of Georgia – these photographs have been called ‘the greatest love poem in the history of photography.’ Their love affair was punctuated by long periods of absence, no children and O’Keeffe’s determination to continue painting no matter what the cost. With Stieglitz as her most enthusiastic advocate O’Keeffe was initiated into the elite avant-garde inner circle of modern American artists. Reclusive, pragmatic and unabashedly female, O’Keeffe raised the awareness of the American public to the fact that a woman could be the equal of any man in her chosen field. In 1929 she began an annual pilgrimage to the plains of New Mexico, escaping an increasingly claustrophobic New York. Sometimes staying for six months at a time her life in New Mexico was solitary; revelling in the new environment that the West provided. O’Keeffe maintained an unbridled, uncompromised work ethic, dedicating every waking hour to art. ‘I was made to work hard – and I’m not working half hard enough – Nobody else has energy like I have – no one else can keep up.’ She was enthralled by the forms, shapes and the hidden dramas of nature and continually painted New Mexico, revisiting places with rigorous repetition. The extraordinary light in the desert enabled her to see over vast distances, beautiful telescopic visions. The mountains were a powerful subject that perfectly elucidated her style – a fusion of organic representation and feminine abstraction. After Stieglitz’s sudden death, O’Keeffe moved to New Mexico permanently, living the rest of her life in Abiquiú - making art that to this day is female, American and magnificently unique. Words: Megan Conery
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SO, THIS ONE TIME...
The Story of How I Tried to Lose My Virginity When you are young, and walking blindly through the dark and terrifying forest of adolescence, you need your friends around you to help and support you. They are the torches, the shining beacons, or some sort of light source within this allegory. Basically, your gal pals are there to help you out.
This wasn’t my experience. I thought it was best to consult my friend who had had sex, and was therefore an expert on all of these matters. I went to see my friend Niki and put the issue forth to her. She nodded sagely and wisely and said, “Why don’t you fill your bra with condoms? When he When I was sixteen, I was desperate for someone takes it off, the condoms will rain down onto the to take my virginity off my hands. I blame this on bed, and your intentions will be made clear without reading too many Young Adult novels. These novels having to have this awkward conversation”. I also are supposed to function as a covert source of sex nodded wisely. Why hadn’t I thought of this? What education, but their focus on the bookish spunky an excellent idea. heroine who always gets laid in a very beautiful I filled up my bra with all the condoms my local and responsible way was very inspiring to me, GUM clinic had bequeathed to me on my frequent and whipped me up into a sex-crazed frenzy. if a little unnecessary - trips to prepare myself for this “Even people in books are getting laid!” I probably special moment. Later that day I went to his house, thought to myself (I’ve burned all my diaries so I and in all the excitement of having a boyfriend, have no evidence of my actual thought process) and watching Salad Fingers, or whatever we did, “Books! I mean films I understand, but books”. I forgot about the bra full of condoms that was Anyway, so I did have a boyfriend who could strapped to my body. One thing led to another and provide some sort of service in this department, he did remove my bra, and the condoms did rain but I didn’t know how to start this conversation. down, just as Niki had predicted. He looked terrified. I looked terrified. He pushed the condoms off the bed. We watched Salad Fingers. Condoms in your bra will not get you laid. Words: Sophie Bishop.
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I was awkward. And also, I knew the girl wasn’t supposed to be the one who was driving this sort of business. I thought the man was supposed to be a constantly randy dog that the woman would tell off for his slavering horny ways (in an understanding and flirtatious manner, of course) and making sure she was still pure and wasn’t flashing her ankles or anything.
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HOLLA! An Interview with Julia Gray of Hollaback London
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We’re constantly having discussions about our experiences of sexual harassment – it’s exasperating, and such a prevalent issue facing women and those in the LGBTQ community. What first triggered the Hollaback movement? Hollaback started in New York in 2005 when a woman caught a man masturbating on the subway – she filmed it and took it to the police, who did nothing. She posted it online, it went viral, and Hollaback was born. Hollaback London came along 5 years later when we were feeling fed up at the amount of street harassment we were experiencing. We felt helpless to do anything about it, so we decided to start up as a blog, and it went from there. Your blog provides a platform to share stories of sexual harassment, but a lot of women feel uncomfortable handling confrontation as it happens. What does the campaign offer in terms of practical solutions for dealing with it? Our aim is to combat myths that present female bodies as public space, and raise awareness about what constitutes harassment and assault. Minor things that make you feel uncomfortable can often be categorised as harassment and are symptomatic of the misogyny rife in our culture. We advise people to always judge situations on a case-by-case basis – talking to friends, or finding a forum where you will be supported, listened to, and not judged is a really good way of dealing with what’s happened. We also now run workshops and public talks, advise the British Transport Police on their Project Guardian, and have just launched a soon to be UKwide campaign in bars and clubs called Good Night Out. You’re urging people to tweet their experiences with the hashtag #goodnightout, which is brilliant. Which venues are involved in the campaign, and how is it being implemented to make sure everyone has a good time? So far we have Fabric, Ministry of Sound, The Alibi, Dalston Superstore, The Shacklewell Arms, Birthdays, Old Blue Last, Dance Tunnel, and Voodoo Rays…and we’re working on making the list grow. The venues sign up to a pledge and agree to implement it as part of their policy, they display posters, and brief staff on what to do if people report. We’re working on taking GNO to other cities in the UK too. We’re looking forward to seeing your posters in more venues around London! Langdon Olgar, your printed publication, is now on its’ second issue – can you tell us a bit about the magazine, and why you wanted to branch out into print? The ‘zine was about the importance of having a presence and reaching out to people in ‘the real world’. It was an opportunity
to bring together our creative side and our activism, and also challenge the stereotype of what a feminist publication was. I was an art student at the time, and Bryony has a DIY punk background - it’s something we both really enjoy doing. A recent survey showed that whilst 81% of Britons agree that men and women should have social, economic, and political equality, only 19% identify as feminist… Like any political movement, feminism is a complex and nuanced thing. People are scared of things that they don’t understand, and ignorance plays a huge part in society’s unwillingness to accept feminism. If there were more education and engagement, people would understand feminism is about ending women’s oppression. However, it’s in the patriarchy’s best interests to remain in power, and it’s easy for misogynists to dismiss feminists as hysterical or aggressive. Do you think the popularity of your campaign, and others such as No More Page 3 and Everyday Sexism, is proving a shift towards the mainstream accepting feminism? I think people are getting really fed up, and with the advances in technology providing a platform it’s never been easier to be active in mainstream politics. It’s fantastic that there are so many channels for young women to access feminism and talk about their experiences, and I think this has lead to feminism being more mainstream. It’s important to remember though that a lot of feminists in the public eye are and have been subject to horrifying online abuse, for merely being present and expressing an opinion which is clearly representative of society’s mistrust and hatred of women, proving there is still a long way to go. Talking of women in the public eye, which women have been particularly important to you? Growing up and knowing nothing about what feminism was, American actress, comedian, and writer Roseanne Barr was always a favourite of mine – she taught me it was OK to be outspoken and angry. Within campaigning, all the women we know who work so hard – largely for no pay – to challenge patriarchy and misogyny, who tolerate abuse and threats, and who spend endless hours of their free time tirelessly working on the cause, with very little reward, and who don’t give up…well, they all deserve to live in blissful paradise forever. If paradise was a thing, y’know. It could happen! And finally, what words of advice would you give to young women looking to get into campaigning? Firstly, do it! Write to a campaign you’re interested in, ask if you can volunteer, sell them your skills. Go to your local women’s organisation or gender-based violence charity and ask if you can help. Educate yourself, keep up to date with what’s going on in the women’s sector and campaign world. Come along to feminist events, meet people, set up a feminist project, group, or network. Despite what I mentioned above, there is so much support within the movement itself – feeling like you’re a part of making change happen is so rewarding. Words: Georgia Murray. Visit www.ldn.ihollaback.org for more info on Hollaback London and Good Night Out Follow Julia and Bryony on Twitter: @hollabackldn
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Every woman has experienced it at one point or another: walking down the street to the unwelcome sound of wolf whistles; an unwanted bum pinch from a stranger on a night out; having to resort to the shit excuse of ‘I have a boyfriend’ (great, only the threat of another guy will make this one fuck off), just to rebuff the advances of the douche bag who won’t leave you alone. Sexual harassment in public spaces is not a new experience for most women, but there is a new collective with the aim of exposing this behaviour – enter feminist heroines Hollaback London. With their campaign Good Night Out, Julia Gray and Bryony Beynon have teamed up with London’s nightclubs to create a safe space for women and LGBTQ individuals. So now we can enjoy our vodka tonic and Diana Ross tune in peace. Our editor spoke to co-director Julia about having a bloody good night out.
“WE ARE THE WEIRDOS, MISTER.”
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The 90s revival has brought back something other than Reebok kicks and scrunchies. Tilly Alice hails the comeback of witches and black magic. Something wicked this way comes...
and tech-savvy BFF Willow (Alyson Hannigan) was battling with the illusive, everyday demon of high school.
of Courtney’s babydoll dresses, while MTV’s Daria (a spin-off of Beavis and Butthead) centred around the eponymous Daria Morgendorffer’s contempt and cynicism towards the bland, suburban lifestyles of her classmates and family. It was, in turn, the decade that saw the traditionally exiled, outcast figure of the witch ride a new wave through modern, empowered and altogether more human depictions.
wrong reasons, but eventually she traded tutoring her classmates for system hacking and spells. Learning potions, practicing séances and casting circles allowed her to redefine herself onscreen, and we saw the once-timid Willow evolve into an independent, sassy young woman – and witch and eventually, with her girlfriend Tara, one of U.S. television’s first lesbian couples. Buffy graced our screens into the early 2000s, giving Willow plenty of time to find her feet. Her powers rose along with her confidence and she faced temptations along the way, at one point becoming a temporary villain when her powers and emotional turmoil bubbled over. Ultimately for Willow, witchcraft was the catalyst in her self-acceptance. When her superhot, superhero best friend didn’t quite get it, witchcraft helped her to find her own way through the pitfalls of being a teenager. Like us, she wasn’t always good and she wasn’t always right, but her mistakes and humanity drove Willow to become a newly defined icon of witchcraft, undermining the campy,
In 1997 Joss Whedon, purveyor of strong lady characters and interviewee of Tavi Gevinson, was cooking up the inimitable TV series, Buffy the Vampire Slayer. The unassuming, cheerleading slayer, Buffy Summers (played by Sarah MichelleGellar), turned the horror-victim role completely on its head. She pretty much owned the term ‘kick ass’, dividing her time between closing portals to hell and trying to work out if her current boyfriend was evil. Buffy was confident, cute and, when she wasn’t pining over Angel and Spike, took out a lot of supernatural creeps. But being pretty, sociable and great at accessorizing definitely gave Buffy some big real-world advantages. While she was figuring one-dimensional caricatures of Disney witches. out whether to keep her prom sash and popularity Just a year before Buffy first aired, cult classic or her wooden stake (she lost the sash), Buffy’s shy The Craft saw a gang of misfit teen witches
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Willow may have already been on the social The 90s redefined what it meant to be weird. peripherals, but she was also had to deal with Grunge reigned supreme and roles were subverted: being gay, and a witch. Willow had a predictably a pastel-pink haired Kurt took to the stage in one rough time coming to terms with standing out for the
shoplifting their spell ingredients and cutting class
black voodoo witches and white Salem witches
to invoke powers. This was witchcraft for a new generation. No cloaks or pointy hats, these girls chose patent leather, dagger earrings and crop tops. They didn’t fit in and they didn’t really want to. Playing on common stereotypes of the witch, a jerky popular guy rejected by the newest coven member, Sarah (Robin Tunney), tries to save face by telling classmates that they hooked up. He casts Sarah as the seductress witch, but naturally she throws some pretty good vengeance spells his way. Rochelle (Rachel True) is bullied for her race, Bonnie (Neve Campbell) ostracized for her scars and the charismatic but terrifying Nancy (Fairuza Balk) lives in a trailer. They’re all marked (literally, in Bonnie’s case) as outcasts.
is reignited when the slave torturing Delphine LaLaurie is brought back and confronted with the 21st century and with coven member Queenie (Gabourey Sidibe), who won’t let her racist ways fly. Zoe and another witch, Lohan-esque Madison (Emma Roberts), upturn tradition and Frankenstein themselves a boy toy. It’s interesting to see one of the few male characters given an entirely dependent, objectified role, almost mute and completely reliant on his creator/girlfriends. Coven gets it right on so many levels. As well as being refreshingly complicated in tackling themes about female identity and difference, the style in this show is unreal. Clothing is used in an exciting, contemporary way; implying things about the individual characters. Outstanding moments include new coven arrival Zoe looking perfect in Alexander McQueen, spoilt Madison in Herve Leger and their teacher Cordelia in a tidy Equipment shirt. Needless to say there’s a lot of black, but this seems more like a badge or crest than a bind; affirming their witchy powers to themselves and one another. A Fleetwood Mac soundtrack and style references to Stevie Nicks made throughout (who appears on the show later in the series – yep, as a witch) makes this one hella’ stylish witchfest.
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But in many ways they’re just regular teenage girls trying to figure it out, while sharing adolescence with their tormentors. Rochelle is on the swim team with her Regina George-ian, racist nemesis Laura Lizzie, and Nancy once had her own, assumed unpleasant, encounter with Chris, the aforementioned jerk. For them, witchcraft is something that is theirs alone; something that they can practice together to try and solve their problems, or at least distract themselves for a while. As with Willow, there’s a definite tie between the girls’ self-belief and their witchy powers. Things go really well at first, and then… Even Disney have begun to revisit the witch, to tell escalate. I’m pretty sure there are some lessons children the other side, her side of the story. From about moderation and restraint in there, but The Angelina Jolie’s Maleficent showing the wounded Craft also raises a lot about identity and just being betrayal of the sorceress who cursed Sleeping OK with yourself, even when other people don’t Beauty, to Frozen’s young Ice Queen Elsa, desperate want you to let you be. So, as well as being an not to harm her little sister, both are outcast for their archive of perfect 90s goth style (the chokers and non-conformity, yet both find ultimate solace within vests over tees are beyond) it’s a film that finally themselves. The representation of witches as feisty, gives a voice to the teenage girl outsider, aligning fierce, and formidable – whilst styling out some her non-conformity with the ultimate female outcast: seriously great looks – is the kinda portrayal of the witch. women that we like. Long live the witch. In 2013, almost 20 years on, American Horror Story: Coven further recasts the figure of the witch, drawing lightly from history books to references Salem and voodoo queens, and completing the transition from figure of fear and deathly seduction into that of an empowered, independent woman. Coven treads the familiar path of a teenage girl, Zoe (Taissa Farmiga), exiled because of her unwanted powers. It doesn’t give much away to say she inadvertently kills guys during sex, so she gets sent to live at a girls’ boarding school (read: a coven). What’s refreshing about Coven is that from the outset it represents social, racial and mental differences in a way that doesn’t feel forced or timid, but strong and totally relevant. A bitter, ancient rivalry between
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Dear Tracey Emin, Being like a Man is Not the Answer
She was on the radio talking about her belief that it’s not possible to be an artist and a mother, which you probably know about because lots of Guardian sort of people have written comment pieces saying ‘Stop being silly Tracey, yes it is.’ Although to be specific, she didn’t say you can’t be an artist and a mother, but that if you have children you’ll never be truly great because you won’t be able to dedicate yourself 100% to the creative process. The first thing I thought was just how totally selfabsorbed the whole thing sounded. Can’t have kids ‘cos you’ve got to dedicate yourself 100% to the creative process? Can you make dinner and go to the toilet and stuff or does that get in the way of the art as well? But then when she said ‘There are good artists that have children. They are called men,’ I thought, well exactly Tracey, you’re bang on the money, sorry for doubting you and everything. But the problem I have with her beliefs, and a lot of the counter-arguments, is that the onus is always on women to sacrifice things or adapt their lives to fit around everything else. We all know that women who choose not to have children constantly end up justifying their choices. Emin used the word ‘selfish’ as she talks about not having them; that old chestnut. I do think there’s something feminist in Emin’s decision to say, ‘I’m going to put myself first, like men do, and not apologise for it, because men don’t.’ Because I’ve never heard a famous man describing himself as selfish for choosing not to have children. Because that’s the thing about this: men just get on with doing whatever the fuck they what to, without thinking about how their decisions impact on anyone else. Because why should they? They’ve never been taught any different. They’re born into a world that teaches them that they are entitled to be in charge of everyone and treat women like objects and drive cars really fast. (No, there still isn’t a female version of Top Gear where women rub their thighs while making racist jokes. INEQUALITY SUCKS.) And just like Emin says, they can be 100% focused on their creative process because throughout history they haven’t had to bother with all that silly domestic stuff.
and just spend all their time naval-gazing and making art? Of course I don’t really think that art is synonymous with naval-gazing. You know I love it and am obsessed with it. But isn’t this the reason why, in the sense of representing real experience, so much art and literature is, on closer inspection, completely inadequate? It comes from such a tiny, small, privileged prism that it ends up being the voice of an elite minority masquerading as the voice of all human experience. Why, instead, can men not be the ones to adapt? Why should Tracey Emin feel like having children will be akin to sacrificing her career as a great artist? How has that become a thing? Rather than the onus always being on the woman to look after children all the time, why can men not pull their fingers out of their arseholes and take some of the responsibility? (Disclaimer 1: not all men etc. etc. Disclaimer 2: I’m not judging anyone’s personal choices, have kids if you want, don’t if you don’t etc. etc.) I don’t actually think that going into a secret little solitary art cave will make you a very good artist, because I think one of the most important things about art is its power to provide empathy. Emin is doing an individualistic political ‘I am an artist on my own terms I have painted myself like a French girl’ type thing (MOVE OVER ADRIAN SEARLE I’M AN ART CRITIC) and that’s fine, but I don’t think that we should go inward just because men do. I think men should come outward. Because why on earth should Tracey Emin have to feel like the only way to get close to a sense of self is to shut everything else down? Why has it become accepted wisdom that if female artists want to be seen on the same level of greatness as men, they have to give things up – but men can just carry on as they are? It’s worth mentioning Grayson Perry’s excellent essay on the Default Man here, which everyone has already read because it’s excellent: he says that if positions of power are going to be shared out equally, some men are going to have to give up their seats. He quoted Bernard Shaw: The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to make the world adapt to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
She’s totally right. There are more men in the canon because they were allowed to just get on with it and it was never questioned. They didn’t have kids tugging at their leg while they were trying to do painting and shit, because the women were sorting all that stuff out. It’s a bit fucking unfair.
So men, I think you need to get adapting. That way, Emin can focus 100% on her creative process and have some sprogs if she wants to. If she doesn’t want to, that’s fine. But she needs to feel like being a supercilious introspective egomaniac isn’t the only option available to her.
But is this really the answer? That women should be more like men? Ergo, they should be selfabsorbed and not give a shit about anyone else
Words: Jessie Thompson
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The other day, I asked myself the following question: ‘Is it anti-feminist of me to think that Tracey Emin is full of shit?’
GO YOUR OWN WAY
Can’t go travelling alone because I’m a woman? Fuck you! Tara Cooper is going anyway... G IRLS/CLUB 48
I love to travel. Having just returned from a short, three-week,
from the South Pole. Men have reached the moon, when a
escapade to Mexico, Belize and Guatemala, I have teased my traveller’s bug and need to see the world. All of it. However, like many of my fellow travellers, I am coming to the realisation that my dream trip is one that I may have to do alone. Amid the pressures of working, studying, and generally living, my pool of potential travel buddies is drying up rapidly. Yes, there are still conversations between me and some friends about where we want to go, and how we’d somehow scrape the money together to do it - but the reality is that a long haul trip is not everyone’s priority. So, I am faced with the dilemma of going it alone – the lone female traveller against the world.
woman is yet to. Moreover, foreign lands that were colonised by European forces from 1500-1900 were often represented in print and literature as beautiful, exotic women, ready to be invaded by the daring and white European male. Although these attitudes towards empire and colonisation might seem outdated, the representation of male travellers and their characteristics live on. Put simply: women aren’t known for travelling. Instead, women are taught from a young age to be wary of strangers, and when we are older to be wary of predatory men. I believe that it is this fear, and the prolonged image of men as the adventurous Indiana Jones figure, that dissuades many women from striking out alone.
Of course, the first cry I hear is: ‘Is it safe?’ Shortly followed by: ‘Won’t you be lonely?’ And the answer to these questions is, simply, I don’t know. Naturally, I go to Google, and that fountain of knowledge, the Lonely Planet guide, for answers. What advice do they offer to the lone female traveller? In the Lonely Planet edition for Mexico, I am advised: ‘Woman usually have a great time in Mexico whether travelling with companions or solo. Gender equality has come a long way, and Mexicans are generally a very polite people, but lone women may still be subject to some whistles, loud comments and attempts to chat them up’. So far, this sounds like nothing I wouldn’t have to deal with during a night out in London. Although the later advice is somewhat patronising, telling women to avoid excessive alcohol and ‘keep a clear head’. This is further reiterated by a plethora of blog posts and articles online.
“The first cry I hear is, ‘Is it safe?’ Shortly followed by, ‘Won’t you be lonely?’ And the answer to these questions is, simply, I don’t know.” The apparent danger women face when travelling outside of their hometown is worrying. I cannot help thinking that this is born partly from confusion: the single female traveller is an ambiguous figure. To both many westerners and locals, she represents independence and freedom, but for others, she seems a misnomer in a landscape where she doesn’t truly belong. Naturally, one can attribute that to the level of womens’ rights and gender equality in specific countries and the personal view of whoever is around you, but I also think this is due to idea of travelling itself.
In an attempt to rectify such an imbalance, I went searching for female travellers of the past and present, and I was pleasantly surprised by how many there were. For instance, Lady Hester Stanhope (1776-1839) was secretary to Prime Minister William Pitt and was awarded a substantial pension after his death. This gave her the financial freedom to travel through Europe, the Middle East and parts of Africa, including Greece, Egypt and Lebanon. Freya Stark (1893-1993) DBE is a much loved travel writer. She saw a significant part of the Middle East, including Iran, southern Arabia, Turkey, Egypt and Afghanistan, and published a huge number of books on these areas that helped the military during the Second World War. Through these services to the British government and her travel writing, she gained a knighthood in 1972. Moreover, Nellie Bly (1864-1922) was an investigative journalist that decided she would beat Jules Verne’s fictional character, Phileas Fogg’s, 80-day trip around the world, and, indeed, she did, returning to New York in 72 days. These examples neatly illustrate that women always have, and always will travel, regardless of loneliness, safety, or propriety. The lone female traveller may feel like a misnomer at times. Every now and again, we will inevitably hear of a tragic incident or accident involving a female traveller. I am not talking about travelling in novels like Eat Pray Love, where Julia Roberts ‘finds herself’, or even something as farfetched as The Beach. I am simply stating the unequivocal fact that the world is beautiful and demands to be seen - and that going and doing something outside of your comfort zone is a good thing one way or the other. So, yes, it may feel like a daunting task, but I know whether my friends are around or not, I will satisfy my traveller’s bug, pack my backpack, and get on that plane. YOLO, right? Words: Tara Cooper.
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When we look to history, we are told that the most famous travellers and explorers were male. It was Christopher Colombus who discovered America; it was Charles Marlow that travelled up the Congo’s river in Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness; Lawrence Oates that said the famous words ‘I am just going outside and may be some time’, before he walked into a blizzard as an act of self-sacrifice, in order to leave companions enough food to survive their trek back
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Damn Girl, Ya Look Good! Emulate these on-screen mega babes with our make-up tips below.
Bobbi Brown Lilac Rose Brightening Lip Gloss
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Bleach London Super Cool Colour in Rose
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Sleek Blush in Flamingo
BELLE DU JOUR
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Natalie Portman rocks a pink bob like no other in this sexy drama. Use Bleach London’s wash-out hair colour in Rose, and team with drop pearl earrings, pink eye shadow and lipgloss to emulate her look in the lap dancing scene.
Catherine Deneuve plays a bored housewife who spends her midweek afternoons as a prostitute in the 1967 film Belle de Jour. The original French siren, Deneuve’s on-screen outfits were designed by Yves Saint Laurent. Get the look with tumbling waves, monochrome eye shadow, and lashings of mascara.
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Curl Souffle Medium Curl Cream
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Mac Lipstick in Japanese Maple
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Remington Hair Curlers
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Barry M Smokin’ Hot Eye Shadow and Face Blush Palette
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Advance Techniques Large Barrel Brush
CLOSER
FATAL ATTRACTION
Glenn Close played Alexander Forrest in 80s classic Fatal Attraction, which featured some amazing blazers and oversize leather jackets. Her wild curls are iconic - scrunch in some hair soufflé and add a slick of peachy lipstick to get her power-dressing look down.
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L’Oreal Paris Colour Riche Le Khol Eyeliner
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Tsubame Hair Scissors WAZA Series
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Bleach London Super Cool Colour in Sea Punk
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Rimmel Lasting Finish by Kate Moss
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Too Faced Sun Bunny Natural Bronzer
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Urban Decay Naked Eyeshadow Palette
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Bed Head Masterpiece Massive Shine Hairspray
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The BrowGal Skinny Eyebrow Pencil in Medium Brown
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Models Own Nail Polish in Red Alert
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NARS Lipstick in Heatwave
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SCARFACE
BLADE RUNNER
Sean Young (great name, gal) plays Rachael, a smokin’ hot robot, in Ridley Scott’s sci-fi classic Bladerunner. Her look is futuristicfilm-noir, so grab some red lipstick and kohl eyeliner, and perfect that 1940s style rolled ‘do with some rollers and spray into place.
Michelle Pfeiffer had an endless supply of disco-ready dresses in this classic crime flick. Her straight bob, high-shine lipstick, and cold stare are perfection. Contour your cheekbones for extra fierceness.
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GHOST WORLD
Scarlett Johansson looked incredible as a disillusioned waitress, but Thora Birch is the star of 2001 cult movie Ghost World. Green lipstick, hair slides, thick black-framed glasses, and a great collection of t-shirts makes her look memorable. Dye your hair sea monster green and pencil in those eyebrows for her ‘1977 original punk rock look’.
FRANCESCA JANE ALLEN
Francesca Jane Allen is a 21-year-old photographer living in London. She began taking photographs of her sister when she was 15, and went on to study Photography at the London College of Communication. Over three years she’s been building a personal documentation of her life and those who mean the most to her in her series Girls! Girls! Girls! She says the best advice she’s been given on photography is, ‘don’t worry if you can’t do everything. It doesn’t matter. Your work becomes really interesting when it has such a distinctive style that people recognize them as yours immediately.’ Crafting a documentary-style of photography that is both achingly cool and beautifully honest, we think she’s done just that.
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SO, THIS ONE TIME...
2003 SNAP
2003. A pretty significant year. Some things have come back into fashion – bombing the shit of Iraq for example. Other things never will: Evanescence, Jane Norman bags, School of Rock. (Actually, scratch that. School of Rock will always be a CLASSIC and I don’t care what you say.)
In the hall, amidst the sound of Blu Cantrell and the lingering sweat from the boys school’s badminton lesson, I walked around shyly with my friends, wearing a carefully assembled outfit from Morgan. The goal was forefront of my mind. Do. The. Snogging. My friends were slowly attaching themselves It was also the year of My. First. Snog. I just had to to the mouths of spotty boys, like innocent civilians get off with someone or I was going to be socially being picked off one by one by a sniper from Savostracized forever and ever amen. And even though ing Private Ryan. I had braces and non-existent eyebrows, I was de- ‘WHAT’S IT LIKE?? HOW DOES IT WORK?? HOW termined to make it happen. I wrote in my lockable DO YOU DO IT?” I asked them all frantically. “TELL Jacqueline Wilson 2003 diary, ‘It’s SNAP on Fri- ME HOW IT WORKS!!!!’ day and I am going to get off with someone. I HAVE ‘Erm. I dunno. You just do it,’ my friend Sophie told to get off with someone. If I don’t I am gay and me. might as well kill myself.’ ‘Oh my god it was horrible and you have to do that If you didn’t know, SNAP disco, a.k.a. Say No ALL THE WAY THROUGH SEX without stopping. I And Phone, was a night run by Kent Police for 11- am never having sex,’ said Izzy. 16 year olds in the hall of the local leisure centre. Romeo Dunn performed there once. You had to ‘Why don’t you get off with Pete Bidewell. He’s eatput your chewing gum in your knickers in case the ing a Polo and it tastes nice,’ Sophie said. police confiscated it thinking it was a massive lump Pete Bidewell, keeper of keys to my emerging sexuof MDMA or something. And it was the place for ality. He knowest not what he hast done. I decided sexual activity for people only just starting to grow to look him up on Facebook the other day. He looks pubes. like Alan Sugar now. He lives in Sweden. He sets up If you think about it, the pressure on Year 8s to gain events for people to have their photo taken for their sexual experience is a bit messed up. It’s literally Linked In profile. Is this a fucking joke???? But there he was. With a queue of five girls. People were queuing up to get off with Pete Bidewell!!! How degrading!!! He gets all this gratification in exchange for passive female sexuality!! We’re objects! But I did really need to get off with someone, so I did it anyway. Words: Jessie Thompson
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a thirteen-year-old’s worst nightmare to be called frigid even though anyone even implicated in looking at your naughty bits is basically doing a child sex crime. And then you get to Year 10 and you give someone a hand job in a tent and everyone calls you a slag. There’s no consistency. You just can’t win. (Just to clarify, I haven’t done any child sex crimes. But I have wanked someone off in a tent.)
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WE NEED SOME
MORE
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Women make up over half the UK’s population, and yet
whole world (or at least media) sat by and thought
men make up over 80% of the Houses of Parliament.
that the term ‘Blair’s babes’ was A-okay. Intelligent,
Tired of the underrepresentation in government,
adult women in positions of power are mocked either
English & Philosophy student Sarah Gibson tackles the
for being too sexy, or for not being sexy enough. It’s
problem of ‘women in politics’ and the need for real
a joke, it’s ironic, whatever – it’s a pattern, and it’s
change.
boring. Within and beyond politics, when women grace
‘Women in politics’ is a tricky subject. The fact that we must see this as a “subject” at all hits the crux of the issue. ‘Men in politics’ is just ‘politics’. It’s impossible to have a normal discussion about politicians who happen to be women, because instead of lefty women and tory women and radical women and liberal women we just have ‘female politician’ – the visible numbers still low
our TV screens or our newspapers their appearance is never far away. It’s everywhere, whether it’s women routinely being made to look immaculate regardless of the context, or what they are there to talk about, or just Holly Willoughby et al sitting next to ugly men whilst nobody asks where the less-polished women are, or whether they might have something interesting to say.
enough to warrant ‘women in politics’ being its own
It’s not a coincidence that these issues go beyond
specific category. Thus we create a box which includes
politics. A world with more women politics needs to be a
Magaret Thatcher and “Blair’s Babes” and Emmeline
whole new world. A world which does not, for example,
Pankhurst and, in parliament today, 86 labourites, 48
shrug its shoulders and tell a woman she ‘chose’ to be
tories, 7 lib dems and 1 Caroline Lucas. This is not a
a mother; astronomical private childcare coupled with
homogeneous box. It would certainly not be a happy
inflexible hours sends out the absurd assertion that the
box.
reproduction of the human race is one woman’s choice,
Although it is blindingly, frustratingly obvious to any feminist worth her (or his) salt that 50% of the population being wildly underrepresented in positions of political power constitutes a massive problem, what to do about it isn’t equally clear. Intuitively, we need more women in parliament. However, things get problematic pretty quickly when you see this as the whole process, rather than the end result. Blair’s government followed this intuition, presumably because bringing about female equality does not demand a rigorous reasoning process. Or perhaps because new labour were not accustomed to such a reasoning process. Either way, the 1997 election
not collective responsibility. This is particularly apt in the context of the long hours of an MP. Similarly, things like gender roles socialisation are insidious and difficult to prove but potentially very relevant. There isn’t time or space to get entangled in the debate now, but I think we would benefit from looking at this more closely. For example, I’ve always wanted to see a study on whether women get talked over and interrupted more in public forums. These and more are probably the reasons why a lot of the strong, angry female voices we hear come through journalism or the media in some other way. The problem definitely isn’t that women aren’t engaged.
saw tens of women crudely poured in to parliament as
Like all-women shortlists, a similar ‘quick fix’ is to simply
a result of all-women short lists, doubling the number of
slap the label ‘feminist’ on women like Sarah Palin
female MPs. Whilst this sheer quantity of female MPs
and Magaret Thatcher. In her book One Dimensional
is statistically impressive, the real impact was minimal.
Woman, Nina Power argues that ideology-free versions
This rate of growth has not been sustained, and women
of feminism (running vaguely along the lines of ‘girl
are currently an underwhelming 148 out of 650 MPs.
power’) mean that somebody simply being a woman is
Tory Anne Widdecombe, beacon of wisdom such as she is, once said that suffragettes would throw themselves under horses to protest positive discrimination. Although it makes me want to jump under a horse to say so, I must agree with Anne Widdecombe. I can infer pretty confidently that our thought processes differ greatly, however. Widdecombe bristles at the notion of ‘help’, arguing only for equal opportunity. Already powerful women have a habit of telling women to ‘lean in’ or ‘man-up’, whether out of a superiority complex or a genuine belief that if women just tried harder, we would have equality. With suffragrettes, ‘equal opportunity’ mostly meant it not being literally illegal for women
seen as a good thing for women. Sarah Palin gets called a feminist even though she loves things that hurt women, like pro-life narratives and calling herself ‘a pitbull in lipstick’. Like Widdecombe, Thatcher sneeringly looked down on women who needed ‘help’ and told them it was every girl for themselves, and that who cares anyway, because the battle is basically won. Powerful anti-feminist women are, in a funny way, useful. They show that feminism is political ideology, not a vague request for ‘more women’. I look forward to the day when we won’t need that ideology, but I also believe it’s a long way yet. Words: Sarah Gibson
to vote. Here, I would argue true ‘equal opportunity’ GI RLS/ CLUB
necessitates a massive change in our society. These labour women are a God-given example, especially to illustrate subtler gender inequality. The
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D.I.Y:
Sistas are doin’ it for themselves
From the popularity of Tavi Gevinson’s Rookie to ‘zine workshops popping up everywhere in London, Riot Grrrl culture is back. Fashion Journalist Lucy Martin takes a look at the return of DIY. The idea that corporations and consumerism is turning feminism into a commodity is gross. The censorship of feminism has fluctuated since the early 1900s due to continuous changes in political ideologies and societal structures. Over the past twenty-five years the misconception of feminism has ignited and nurtured an underground movement. However, after Chanel’s SS15 collection, in which models walked down the catwalk in a staged feminist march, could there be recognition that society’s views, as a collective, has moved forward? Nah. The World Gender Gap Report states the polar opposite: the UK has declined continuously year after year in their global ranking of gender equality. Sadly we did not even make it into the top twenty countries this year.
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But not all faith is lost. This oppression has transformed the 90s Riot Grrrl movement into a manifestation and reality for girls in 2014. A core aspect, ‘zine culture, still dominates the creative outlets that this scene created. There’s an argument that feminist ‘zines have expanded in the last few years, although the reasons for this could lay with online platforms
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such as Tumblr. Before the digital age, makeshift ‘zines were a creative outlet passed between a small group of friends with similar ideas and concerns. Now, by placing work online within seconds, anyone, anywhere, can obtain it. Due to consumerism’s tendency to make us feel isolated if we don’t fit the bill, people are actively seeking a community online that they can relate to. This subsequently formed a subculture of empowerment, safety and belonging. Ione Gamble set up Polyester for this exact reason. A dissatisfaction with the selection of fashion publications available, she was inspired to create a platform, ‘celebrating the artists, photographers and designers’, whilst attempting to ‘represent it for the actual community that it is.’ Ione and Tavi Gevinson, the creator of Rookie Mag, along with an array of other ‘zine creators, have managed to offer a universally inclusive home to a mass audience. As with all subcultures, popular culture does not react so kindly to counter culture. SS15 at Paris Fashion Week showed this profusely; Karl Lagerfeld’s constructed march-come-catwalk was filled with It Girls such as Cara Delevingne, Charlotte Free and Georgia May Jagger. Although, categorically, no one can say whether Karl Lagerfeld did this as a marketing ploy, or because his pulsating need for women to have an equal part in our society took over. There does seem to be evidence, however, that Chanel may be cashing in on the feminist movement ‘trend’ that is sweeping the mainstream right now. Do not forget Coco Chanel was not ‘ugly enough to be a
feminist’. (Karl’s words, not mine.) His satirical placards such as ‘Men should get pregnant too!’ totally missed the point. The fashion industry can be a paradox for feminism, it is an oxymoron itself used to both empower women and oppress them simultaneously. The fight for not only gender equality, but racial and homosexual rights do, however, have a raw and relatable voice on Meadham Kirchhoff’s runways. As a brand, they celebrate upcoming artists, and are active fangirls of Tavi and Ione’s publications. The angst of a worldwide group is somehow honed through Meadham Kirchoff’s impeccable collections and performances each and every London Fashion Week. Their popularity and huge admiration among thousands seems to derive from the relatability and authenticity of the voice they are projecting.
The Riot Grrrl movement, that still exists twenty years on, is something that is improving and changing the way people perceive inequality, and re-claiming what feminism means on an individual level. All of this is done through artwork, writing, and the sense of angst and excitement that this movement provides. Entering this large group of creatives is a complete, honest and vastly inspiring journey with a raw sense of unity. It’s a pure celebration of everyone in whatever they do, a celebration of the individual. Words: Lucy Samantha Martin Artwork: Alannah Byrne – www.alannahbyrne.com
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The defiance against conventional beauty, sexual objectification and inequality that Meadham Kirchhoff delivered so eloquently in their SS15 collection, derived from, and lives on in, the mass of feminist ‘zines and collective art groups. The do-it-yourself philosophy of this scene also saw the increase in the use of collages. What was once seen as an almost juvenile artistic form is beginning to, like ‘zines, receive credible recognition. Artists such as Beth Hoeckle (well known for her work at Rookie Mag) collaborating with fashion designer Alice McCall on her new collection, and the work of Wangechi Mutu and Pree Bright gaining appreciation on online platforms such as Dazed and Confused is evidence of this. This popularity has given access to people who aren’t photographers or illustrators – you don’t need to be a professional to get involved. Like Ione Gamble said, collages ‘nearly always look cute!’
2014’s popular culture has taken a strange stance on feminism; even Emma Watson’s HeForShe campaign speech at the United Nations addressed men’s inequality needing to be dealt with prior to women’s. That is, apparently, the only way corporations, mass media and popular culture will grant us equal rights. Even though feminism has begun to transgress from a taboo subject to one more openly talked about, the ideology that is being progressed through popular culture is not one that is necessarily going to advance the strive for equality. So whilst forever skewed views of what equality means for gender, race and sexuality circulates the mass media, there is a creative community and growing platform for those dissatisfied with the status quo to immerse themselves in.
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back cover TURNT UP!
HERE ARE THE TUNES WE LISTENED TO WHILST MAKING ISSUE 1 - ENJOY! Shave ‘em Dry Lucille Bogan
Video Girl FKA Twigs
Flawless Beyonce
Tough Love (Cyril Hahn Remix) Jessie Ware
I’m Coming Out Diana Ross
Jimmy Mack Martha Reeves & The Vandellas
1 Thing Amerie
It’s Not Right But It’s Okay Whitney Houston
Just A Girl No Doubt
Ritual Union Little Dragon
Who’s That Girl? Eve
Oh Bondage Up Yours! X-Ray Spex
Hallelujah Anyway (Larse Vocal) Candi Staton
Dip It Love Christina Millian
Libertango Grace Jones
Whatta Man Salt-N-Pepa
Get Right J-Lo
Wuthering Heights Kate Bush
I Can Never Go Home Anymore The Shangri-Las
The Sweetest Taboo Sade
I’m Her Ji Nilsson
Rhiannon Stevie Nicks
Say You’ll Be There MO
Mulder and Scully Catatonia
I’m Caught Up (In a One Night Love Affair) Inner Life
Doo Wop (That Thing) Lauryn Hill
Don’t Walk Away Jade
Believe Cher
Hong Kong Garden Siouxsie and The Banshees
Celebrity Skin Hole
Unpretty TLC
Caught Out There Kelis
Dancing On My Own Robyn
Thinking of You Sister Sledge
How Long Do I Have to Wait For You? Sharon Jones & The Dap-Kings
Let Me Blow Ya Mind Eve ft. Gwen Stefani
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Image Credits:
P.4 Francesca Jane Allen by Matilda Hill-Jenkins - P.8-9 One Dimensional Woman: Amazon.com, Misogynies: Amazon.com, The Beauty Myth: Wikipedia, A Room of One’s Own: Amazon.com, Female Chauvinist Pigs: Amazon.com, Why Be Happy When You Could Be Normal?: Amazon.com, Top Girls:Amazon.com, Heartburn: Amazon.com - P.10-13 Drew Barrymore: Ellen von Unwerth, Angelina Jolie: Helmut Newton, Bianca Jagger: Andy Warhol - P.14 Jess Green: Charlie Carr-Gomm - P.16-22 $ister $ister: Jade French, Bex Day, Nastasia Alberti, BabyFace.com, Celia Mae Jones, Olivia Jardine, Savannah James-Bayly: Isaac Peral, Anna Pallares - P.23 Jerry Hall: Getty, Diane Keaton: Annie Hall, Grace Jones: Bettmann/CORBIS, Farah Fawcett: Charlie’s Angels, Debbie Harry: Christ Stein, Bianca Jagger: Getty, Charlotte Rampling: Liliana Cavani, Lauren Hutton: Gary Lewis - P.34 Lilo Raymond - P.36: Steven Klein - P.38-40 Alfred Stieglitz - P.41 Magnum Condoms - P.42 Hollaback London - P.44-46 The Craft, Buffy the Vampire Slayer - P.48 The Swinger - P.50-51 Closer, Fatal Attraction, Blade Runner, Ghost World, Belle du Jour, Scarface - P.59 Cry Baby - P.60 BBC iPlayer
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